Hand Tool Headlines

The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator

This is a collection of all the different blogs I (try to) read.  A whole bunch!  If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to use the CONTACT page to get a hold of me.  Thanks!



Free Audio: “Cutting the Cord” at WIA 2016

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - 3 hours 48 min ago

At Woodworking in America this year, I presented a talk called, 'Cutting the Cord: Why I Converted to Hand-Tool-Only Furniture Making'. During the talk, I had my voice recorder on to be able to share it with you readers that couldn’t make it to WIA.

That audio can be heard here. Please note that the recording reflects the fact that I had been talking non-stop with visitors for two days straight. Excuse the strained voice.

If you are curious to hear what inspired me to put the power tools away, listen to this 27 minute podcast. And pass it around. I’d like to give more folks a chance to hear a case for hand tools in the 21st century shop.

After you give it a listen, let me know if you can connect with my journey at all. I’d love to hear your story.

Categories: Hand Tools

Making Doors With Hand Tool Methods

Paul Sellers - 6 hours 12 min ago

DSC_0291Last year we made a series on making a wall-hung tool cabinet using hand tools and the whole process involved many elements to help woodworkers develop various woodworking and cabinet making skills. As we were filming we generated some extra footage intended for different YouTube presentations and one of the different series was how to make a door by hand. The door is panelled, grooved and has mortise and tenon construction methods for the joinery. DSC_0102The goal is to make a twist-free door starting with the rails and stiles and using my method for guaranteed co-planer surfaces between rails and stiles. This in essence means that within the mortises the inside faces or cheeks of the mortise holes must be as near parallel to the outside faces as is humanly possible. A difficult accomplishment even for skilled craftsmen. Forming the tenon cheeks with faces where the cheeks perfectly align with the outside faces of the rails requires the same level of accuracy too. All of this leads to the outside faces of the rails and stiles being perfectly surface aligned.DSC_0100 I have never seen anyone create a strategy like this that didn’t follow what I developed and show in this video, but I have consistently seen twisted doors made by those using both hand and machine methods. This series has been important to me in that I wanted to pass on what truly works for the generations to come who love hand work as I do. It’s a four-part series and I think/hope that you will enjoy what we have put together for woodworkers around the world. As apprenticeships and craft training through colleges and universities gradually shut down over the years to come we must find alternative ways to ensure the future of craftsmanship. DSC_0206Please, if you do like it, make sure that you tell others about this and our other craft training series as this is the only way we can truly protect the traditions of handwork. Much of what we teach comes from decades of training passed down that will only come this way.

Here is the link to a guaranteed future for craftsmanship internationally.


The post Making Doors With Hand Tool Methods appeared first on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Roman Workbenches High And Low

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - 6 hours 50 min ago

When researching Roman workbenches, one of the things that leaped out at me was how low many of them were low, knee-high like a sawbench. After building a low bench based on drawing from Pompeii and Herculaneum, most visitors to my shop had one question: Were the Romans really short? The answer is: no. These low benches are used differently. You sit on them to plane faces of boards. You […]

The post Roman Workbenches High And Low appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

My grandson is currently in the US Navy serving on a ship stationed in Yokosuka. He ask me if I would like a tool from there, I'm not a great hand tool fanatic but would like to add a Japanese hand plane to my collection of hand planes. Do you have a...

Giant Cypress - 9 hours 59 min ago

Thanks for reading, and thanks to your grandson for his service.

I would start with a 65mm Japanese plane, as it will be a little easier to set up and handle than the standard 70mm Japanese plane. You tend to get what you pay for, so beware of super-cheap planes. I think that when you get into the $200 range, you can be assured that you won’t get a piece of junk.

One of the issues is that there are going to be many more Japanese planes available in Japan than we know about on this side of the Pacific, so a specific recommendation may not be super helpful. Having said that, there’s a plane made by Tsunesaburo called “Kotobuki” (see the picture below) which seems like a good first choice. I’m picking this one mainly because it seems to be easy to find when I look on Japanese tool seller websites. This doesn’t mean that other good options don’t exist, however.


Going Digital

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 11 hours 7 min ago
Most of my patterns are made by outside CNC services.

How I Started in Digital Woodworking I had a long career as a designer. Long enough that I started out using traditional design tools, techniques and methods. So, when digital tools for designers first became available in the early 80’s, I jumped in. Even though the first design and publishing software programs were pretty basic, they helped me get real work done and soon became indispensable. I also really liked using […]

The post Going Digital appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Forum Update 9/26

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - 11 hours 9 min ago


Good morning! Another weekend over and another busy week is upon us. No matter how crazy life is, make sure to take some time to read the forum and see what your fellow woodworkers are up to. Remember, if you have a question about our products, procedures in our books or anything related to Lost Art Press, the fastest way to get an answer is our forum. Check it out here.

No. 7 Adjustment Issues
Kendall took apart his Lie-Nielsen No. 7. to sharpen the blade but now that he is putting it back together he cannot get the blade to adjust below the sole. He is looking for any help on what he may be doing wrong. Let’s see if we can prevent him from having to make a call into Lie-Nielsen. Help him here.

Handworks 2017
Does anyone who has attended Handworks have a recommendation for a place to stay? Steve is ready to get his plans together and is looking for input.

Spare Bedroom Workshop
Mark and his girlfriend have found a house that they love and want to buy but there is no garage or basement to use as a workshop. Mark is looking for feedback from anyone who has used a spare bedroom as a shop before. Did it work out? How was the noise? Was dust all over the house?

Crucible Dividers
Jason likes the pictures of the Crucible dividers but wants to get to the point and find out how they work. If you have a pair, let him know what you think.

Hot Hide Glue Gelling Quickly
Josh has had success with hot hide glue on small pieces but has had no success with it when trying to glue up a panel. Every time he finds he is unable to close the joint. He is wondering if anyone would be able to help with why this is occurring.


Staked Chair
Travis has made a pair of staked chairs from “The Anarchist’s Design Book” and they turned out great. (Photo at top and to right.) The beveled edges are a great touch!

Meghan Bates

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Chair Fail! How To Fix - SURVEY

Toolerable - 14 hours 10 min ago
A bit more than two years ago, I built my first Roorkee chair. It was constructed with black leather and pear wood. I've built a few more since then, but those were gifts, and this one is mine.

This chair didn't get used a whole lot, until I brought it with us to Spain. We have a furnished apartment here, but it was a simple thing to bring this chair along since it folds up into a neat bundle. I find myself using this chair multiple times per day here, as it is the perfect thing for watching TV in our new apartment here.

That is, it was the perfect thing. A few days ago there was a bit of a mishap:
OK, this is a bit of an exaggeration. This was after I removed the offending stretcher.
I probably was a bit careless in sitting in it that morning. I violated my "No Plopping" rule. I plopped and heard a big, "CRACK" and knew I was in trouble.

The chair was not as stiff as it had been, and upon inspection, I found the following break in the stretcher on the left side of the chair that goes from front to back. It was on the rear side of the chair.
Upon further inspection, I decided it was a pretty bad break.
Is it really that bad?

Yes. Yes it is really that bad.
I've never seen wood crack across the grain like this before. I think, however, that I know what caused it.

This was the first Roorkee chair I ever made, and I turned the stretchers on a lathe. This chair got me into a bad habit, though. I must confess that I always make this tapered tenon 100% with the tapered tenon cutter from Lee Valley.

The recommended way to make this tenon is to turn the rough shape of it on the lathe, and then finish with just a few turns of the tapered tenon cutter for a finished shape. This method preserves the shape of the tenon being perfectly centered on the dowel.

What I did was turn the dowel on the lathe, put it in a vice and use the tenon cutter like a pencil sharpener to make the tapered tenon from the beginning.

I determined that this really wasn't all that difficult, and since then I've made all my tapered tenons this way.

The big problem, is that it is easy for the tenon cutter to get off a bit. This particular tapered tenon looked like it was bent. What must have happened, is I must have put a bit more pressure on one side of the tenon cutter than the other while turning it, resulting in the center of the tenon not being centered on the center of the dowel.

Long story short, when I put this chair back together, this "bent" tenon was in the back on the side, a position which I have discovered is the highest stress part of the whole chair.

The best fix for this is to turn a new stretcher, corectly taper the tenon and replace.

Unfortunately, I don't think I have enough pear left to make another stretcher like this. If I do, it is in Munich, and not here in Spain with me. For the meantime, I can either try to repair it, or turn a new dowel in a completely new species of wood.

For starters, I think I'll just try to glue it back together and see if that works. I first thought of liquid hide glue, since it's reversible. On the other hand, if it doesn't work the first time, what's the point? Plus, liquid hide glue won't do squat on the crack that runs perpendicular to the grain. Pretty much no glue would.

What I think I'll try is super glue.
How super is Super Glue?
I figured the best part of super glue is it sets in just a few seconds. That is a definite plus, since I have no way of clamping this.
Glue applied.
What I did was squirt as much super glue into every part of the crack that I could. Then I squeezed it together with my fingers, wiped off the excess, and shoved it into the tapered mortise, and put all my weight on it for a minute or so.

The idea was that the tapered mortise would press everything into the shape it needed to be in.

The other thing I did was every few seconds I rotated the dowel, so it did not get glued and stuck to the mortise permanently.

Here's what I wound up with:
Glue is set.
It's ugly, but if it works I will sand it clean and make it pretty again.
The good news is it seems to be working.
When I reassembled the chair, I put the offending broken tenon in a part of the chair that I thought would get the least stress: the front left with the dowel running side to side this time.

The fix seems to be holding. I've been sitting in it for a couple of days, and there were no problems until the other night. I was leaning sideways in the chair, and I heard a snap.

To my chagrin, I could see space in the crack across the grain, but the long grain part of the crack was still holding.
The crack.
 While the crack is outside of the mortise, the long grain glue up that is still holding is deep in the mortise. This seems to be enough that the chair is still holding up.
A bit of a closer view.
I think that this temporary fix will keep together until I get back to Germany next.

I have a couple of options:
  • I could just glue it again
  • saw it apart, and glue it up again with a floating tenon or a dowel. I think this is how I would fix an antique piece. Since this tenon is "bent," I'm not sure it's worth it. Although, I could scrap the current tenon, attach a new piece of wood and re-shape the tenon with the tenon cutter.
  • I could make a new stretcher - although I am pretty sure I do not have enough pear so it might be a contrasting species.
  • I am kind of leaning toward scrapping all of the wood for this chair and building a new one, recycling the leather from this chair.
What do you think? Take my survey, and I will go along with the majority:
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Categories: Hand Tools

4 more mortises to go.......

Accidental Woodworker - 15 hours 47 min ago
I had expected to glue up the rails today but that didn't happen. That will probably be done later on next week. I did get the feet and uprights done but the final clean up etc with them will come after the bearings are in. I also made a concession to my hands today. I wanted to stay and do more but my hands hurt too much. Arthritis sucks and in my case it isn't getting better but worse. I did a lot of hand intensive work today shaping, sanding, filing, and rasping. At least all that work is complete and all that is left is the two mortises for the stretcher and the two for the bed bolt nuts.

steel wool
I don't like using sandpaper on shellac and I prefer to use 4-0 steel wool. I didn't go nutso on this because I have to glue it up still. I concentrated on getting the nibs and any drips that I missed when I applied the shellac. I only had two on one top edge to remove.

my collection of  marking gauge pins
I stopped to sweep the floor and I found two pins that I had lost when cutting these on the hardie.  The 2 right side piles are knife points, the top ones are 1/2 footballs, and the bottom right are pin points. These are still waiting to be hardened. I watched a you tube video where a pin was hardened on a gas stove. I'm not sure that I want to try that but I'll keep it in mind just in case.

found what I was looking for
 I need a 9/16" and a 7/8" hole. The 9/16" hole is for the 9/16" sleeve bearing and the 7/8" hole is for the electrical box disc.

too tight to tap home
I need to get a machinist vise
There was a little nib that I filed off but the fit was still a bit tight. So I filed the whole disc by rotating it in this. It is the closest thing to a machinist's vise that I have to do metal work. It did work but it was slow going.

snug and I can push it in with a finger
This will be the bearing rub plate, or stop plate for the 3/8" metal rod that the cradle will hang from.

9/16" disc from one of these
#12 washer is closer in size
This one is close but it has a larger center hole that I don't like. The fender washer has a smaller hole which means the rod will bear on more metal and less air.

sanding it down to 9/16"
not round but it fits
I'm not sure that I want to do this but I may have to. I can't find metal slugs or discs in this size at all. I'm going to make one last try to find something in a washer that has a 9/16" OD.

my router bit collection
Some of these I have not used for years. There is a spot on the right that is filled with more router bits still in the protective wrappers. I haven't gone through any of this yet.

the other half of the drawer
I would like to sell these as one lot but I will have to take an inventory of what I have first. It will give me an idea of what I have and what you'll be getting.

dry fit on the cradle
This is my last chance before the glue goes on to check this. I only need three slats in the rails to do this to check that the tenons and mortises still fit.

the last dry fit it was square now it's a 1/8" out
I was dreading this happening
I cocked the clamps to square up the cradle and this happened. I knew that I was close to the bottom of the end and it was fragile. I moved the tenon up a 1/2" more than I wanted it to leave more meat here but it wasn't enough.
the tenon was fat at the shoulder end
I kept trimming it until when I inserted it the crack didn't open up
I had to trim this tenon because for some reason it would not fit in the mortise. I knew I had done these snug but this one wouldn't seat with taps from the mallet. I had to use the clamps to close it up.

Yikes this doubly sucks
I won't be gluing up the rails today but I will be gluing the splits and cracks. And I might just glue the cradle up and if it is square, it is square. If it isn't then that is alright too.

it works
I thought of this as a way to gently open up this split so I could get some glue in it.

vacuum cleaner trick
This trick worked very well with sucking glue into the split. It worked so well the first time I tried it I sucked all the glue out with it. I got both of the splits glued and clamped and I set them aside to set up until tomorrow. I am going to use a small miller dowel to reinforce the splits. I am going to do it on all four corners. This will balance the look and provide insurance for the other corners that maybe they won't split.

sawing out the feet
Started the sawing with the sash saw and stopped. It was working but it was hard going with it.

switched to my big rip saw
I may have to forgo practice and try to sharpen this. It is getting dull even though it still saws ok. I looked at the teeth and a few no longer come to a point and I can see a flat on them.

coping saw tryout
I have a half circle to saw on both ends of the feet with this. This is a saw I want to boost my skill level with.

a cautious cut
 I erred on the waste side because I couldn't see the pencil line as I sawed. I guessed at what the curve was when I sawed this. The pic I took of the first one on the right came out to blurry to tell what it was. But I erred the same way there on all of the cuts.

I'm getting better with these
I had no urge to give these either of these flying lessons today. For the most part they behaved and worked like they should. Other than a little bit of chattering, I didn't have any problems with them.

I don't mind this but I'm not sure how the kids will view it. If I had put this the other way I would have had a wide band of it right around the mortise. On the bottom I was able to remove most of it because of the cutout.

cleaning up the feet
I cleaned up and smoothed the feet with the #3.

1/2" plywood for the cradle
I went to Home Depot this morning to get some 3/8" metal rod and they didn't have any. They didn't have any steel rod at all in any size. They had a boatload of threaded rod though. I'll probably have to buy it from McMaster-Carr.

Mini rant. Why do stores change where they normally stock things every so often?  I know the answer to this. It's a marketing ploy to get you to walk around the store looking for where you thought it was and maybe you'll see and buy something else. All this does is piss me right the F--- OFF. I know what I want and where it is supposed to be so stop playing games with me. Mini rant over and we can now resume are regularly scheduled blog.

 pic of the finished foot
I rounded the top outside corners to match the bottom. The original plan had these squared off.

I thought these two were clean
I had brushed these two off and they looked ok but I sprayed them and all this crap showed up.

finishing the shaping on the last upright
I used sandpaper wrapped around a dowel first on this. The bandsaw burned the whole thing and the sandpaper got most of it. The rasps got the last bits and smoothed out the shape.

the finished upright top
Tomorrow I'll do the layout for the bottom stretcher mortise. I'll hold off on the bed bolts until the cradle is glued up and I have an exact length for the bottom stretcher.

smoothed and cleaned up
 I didn't do the final flushing etc between the uprights and the foot. I want to do the stretched mortise first. Then I'll drill and draw bore them together. I quit here and went upstairs to relax and watch football games that I don't care who wins and loses.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What innovation did Walter Scott of Providence, Rhode Island, introduce to America in 1872?
answer - the diner (it was a horse drawn freight wagon)

More First Time Dovetails

David Barron Furniture - 16 hours 43 min ago

Rod from California sent me this picture and made these very nice comments,
I am really excited that your guide has made a very difficult process much less daunting.  I have to admit I was a bit sceptical but all doubts have been brushed aside. My first attempts were cut with a Veritas dovetail saw since I already owned one. Not 100% happy with my results, I ordered the Japanese saw you recommend and I am very impressed with it. Here is a sample of my latest attempt:
Thanks also for all of your YouTube videos demonstrating how cutting dovetails can be achieved by most anyone willing to give it a go! Take care.

Below is the very first dovetails cut by Michael from Melbourne, most impressive! If you can nail it in 3/4" stock then smaller dovetails will be a piece of cake.

Categories: Hand Tools

Hanging Tool Cabinet Doors

orepass: Woodworking to Pass the Time - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 2:02pm

Long weekends are made for woodworking projects, there’s time for the family, kayaking and woodwork. Beginning work on the cabinet doors brought to mind the need to carefully dimension all of the parts, removing any twist. Hand planing one side and both edges I turned to the planer to make sure everything is parallel and consistent. Then a final hand planing to remove any machine marks and eliminate as much sanding as possible.

Categories: Hand Tools

Music I’d Like To Hear #117

Doug Berch - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 11:52am

Beautiful family with guitar, mandolin, and fiddle.

Categories: Luthiery

Littleton Common Makers GoFundMe

Close Grain - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 9:46am

Demonstrating chisel usage at the Littleton Common Makers booth at Littleton's Third Thursday event in July.

Littleton Common Makers, the makerspace in Littleton, MA where I run my free veterans woodworking program, is conducting a GoFundMe campaign in order to remain open for another year. Click here if you'd like to contribute.

The goal of the funding is to cover rent and expenses, and add improved equipment to increase membership. Ultimately the goal is for the makerspace to be self-sustaining from membership. For now, the membership isn't large enough. It takes up-front investment to establish the space and bring in equipment and programs that will attract people.

Some of the antique tools I use for teaching, with a few fun curls of wood.

A makerspace is a shared community resource that makes tools, equipment, and workspace available to people who wouldn't normally have acceess to them. This includes tools for working metal, plastic, wood, and other materials, from antique woodworking hand tools to high-tech CNC and 3D printers, laser cutters, electronics, and robotics. It's all hands-on, learning how to apply skills and make things yourself.

It's also a collaborative space, where people share knowledge and techniques. The multi-disciplinary, cross-functional environment stimulates all kinds of creative energy.

See this page for more information and please help keep LCM open!
Categories: Hand Tools

Getting a Silky Smooth Surface

The Indian DIY & Woodworker - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 7:33am
Neeem Wood Table Top

Some people may be of the opinion that it is quite unnecessary to achieve a silky smooth surface on wooden boards that will be used in furniture assembly. I am no expert but for me the feel of the wood in furniture is a very primal instinct. I like to touch wood, run my fingers over it and nothing feels better frankly than a silky smooth finish.

The key of course lies in properly sharpening the blade iron of a hand plane. I am not aware if planing machines can impart a similarly smooth surface; perhaps they can but that is something beyond my experience.

What I do know is that hand planing can produce an extremely desirable surface of great sensuous appeal.

For the past few weeks, I have been joining and planing 4 inch wide White Oak planks to make the sides of a smallish chest. Much of the timber was wet when I procured it and over the Monsoons it warped and twisted more than a little.

This forced me to rip the pieces, straighten them somewhat and rejoin them painstakingly. The process was further slowed by a paucity of clamps.

At any rate, once I put together the six pieces required, it was clear I would have to do a fair amount of planing to perfectly flatten at least one side in each piece in order to produce a datum surface. The other side would also have to be planed but not to the same precision.

The problem as always was my lack of a sharpening habit. Most of my planes simply bounced off the hard Oak.

I consulted my little grey notebook where I jot down details of each of the hand planes I possess, including when and at what angle they were last sharpened. It was evident I had neglected sharpening all through the Monsoons. It was remarkable that they were working at all.

A polished bevel

After a day of sharpening, the blades were razor sharp again; some of them had beautifully polished bevels. The thicker blades look prettier with polished bevels.

Flattening the Oak pieces became a pleasure instead of a tedious chore. The Oak seemed to purr in pleasure as the shavings flew.

Oak Shavings

Ah! The satisfaction of feeling a smooth board. A source of recondite pleasure. 

I will not sand these boards even though some believe that would be a mistake. Finish and stain, they claim, requires a sanded surface.

Planed Oak Board

Pigments might have a problem with a fine surface but dyes do not. A light dye and a coat of Shellac works perfectly.

Shellac will stick to the smoothest of surfaces. I have tried it on plastic and it works. This is one way of painting over plastic laminates.

With Shellac in place, I could shift to polyurethane or some sort of varnish. But I usually lay on more coats of Shellac. The resulting finish is of a very high sheen. For a more matt finish, rubbing down with 600, 800 and 1,000 grit wet/dry sandpaper helps.

Indranil Banerjie
25 September 2016
Categories: Hand Tools

Pier Table Class

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 6:25am
Pier Table Class

By Friday afternoon some of the guys in for our class had packed it in. A few were still hard at it, and one left Thursday after a lunch at Dewey’s (a regional pizza joint) and ice cream at Graeter’s. (If you don’t know Graeter’s, find it and give it a try.)

None of the pier tables were fully assembled because most of them had more inlay work needed, including the small bits of banding around the legs that align with the bottom edge of the aprons.

Continue reading Pier Table Class at 360 WoodWorking.

after the saw filing......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 2:30am
The filing of the saw took only about 20 minutes so I know I can work this into my daily schedule in the shop. I just have to find some saws to practice on. After this I changed lanes and went back to work on the cradle.

there is a table saw under there
Before I gave my jointer away, it was treated like the tablesaw is now.  I wasn't using it and it became a horizontal storage platform. I haven't used the tablesaw in over a month or maybe two months. If I did want to use it I would probably spend a couple hours clearing it off and finding someplace to put all the crappola that is on it.

To all the readers who live locally and admit to reading this daily dribble, I'm offering up the saw for $150. I want to get 4 more 4 foot aluminum clamps and $150 is what that costs. I also have a D handle and rabbit ear PC690 router for sale. The rabbit ear router is in a Woodhaven horizontal router table. I have an 3HP Ryobi plunge router and a Hitachi plunge router in a router table. Lastly I have an older Black and Decker metal housing 1/4" shank router with an edge guide and a metal case. This router is about 40 years old and works perfectly with tons of power for such a small router. Email me at rjb37 at cox dot net if you are interested in anything.

for the wedges
When I took a bench class at Lie Neilsen a few years ago I learned this about wedges. CH Becksvoort taught that class he said that the slots for the wedges shouldn't be more than a 1/8 -3 16" from the edge. Anymore than this and there isn't any wedging action gained. I also like to drill a hole at the bottom to help it from not splitting as the wedge goes home.

I popped off another scab and I had to glue that back on. I tossed the hide glue that I used to glue them on. Out of the four rails I had to glue the scab back on 3 of them. This one I glued back on with the hide glue I made up last night. I turned it on to cook at 0600 and when I glued this back on the glue was reading a toasty 142°F (61°C).

I forgot the how to
Since I had to wait for the scab I glued on to set up I turned my attention to the cradle ends. I decided to apply a couple coats of finish to them before I glue the rails on. Since they are so large I dug out my RO sander and some dust collection. It had been so long since I last used this that I forgot where the hoses went. This end fits on the dust buddy and not on the shop vac. Like I tried to do first for five minutes.

I just sanded the faces. The bottom edge I had planed and the tops I scraped and they didn't need to be sanded. A couple of minutes with some 220 grit and I was ready to put on some shellac.

cleaning the edges
No matter how careful I am I get a build up of shellac at the top edges. Instead of scraping or sanding I deal with it another way. It starts with dipping the brush in the alcohol I use to clean the brush.

clean rag is next
I use the rag to remove some of the alcohol in the brush and also to shape it like you see it here.

it disappears
Since each coat of shellac melts into the one beneath it this will melt the drips and runs. With the brush charged with alcohol only, I brush the drips with this until they melt into the bottom coat.

This is all I got done on the cradle today. I spent most of the day applying the shellac and letting it dry before I put on another coat.

Lie Neilsen depth stop
This came in the mail today but it doesn't have a screw. I called LN but I guess that it was too late for CS on a saturday. I'll call and ask about this on Monday.

this doubly sucks
I have a boatload of 8-32 and 10-24 thumbscrews and will they fit the LN depth stop? Nay, nay moose breath. The screw for the depth stop is a weird 12-24 size. Isn't this one of the sizes that Stanley used? This screw is from my LN depth stop.

marked the stop
I scribed a couple of lines on the depth and it's time to file down to them. This brass was incredibly easy to file. I had to look at it twice when I first started because I couldn't feel the file removing any metal. Because of the setup on the WM2500 I had to file the corner off at a 45.

not quite, it is hanging on the outside edge of the threads
I do like shiny
On the first few strokes I got scratch marks and as I filed more it started to get shiny and completely scratch free. This is something I have never seen before and did not expect. The filed part is shiny and the rest of the depth stop looks dull in comparison.

it works
This depth stop is much better than the one that comes with this. The screw on the LN stop bears down on the steel square housing. It won't matter if the screw dings this up but I doubt the brass will do anything at all to the steel.

I've to got preserve this
I have no intention of ever giving up this router and I usually don't give a rat's ass about stuff like this. But I must be mellowing in my old age and I want to keep this. I would like to picture frame it and put it in the interior of the box but there isn't enough room.  Plan #2 is picture frame it on the lid. That is a future project.

the end of the shop day
I got three coats of shellac on both faces. The top and bottom edges have 6 coats of shellac. Tomorrow I'll glue the rails on and maybe finish shaping the trestle assembly.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Clocks in the 14th century only had one hand to tell the hour. When did the minute and second hand come?
answer - the minute hand came in the 16th century and the 17th century the second hand

saw filing adventure......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 2:15am
For the past two weeks, off camera, I've been playing with filing a child's 11TPI rip saw. In spite of the two weeks I didn't have a lot to show for all this time. I had jointed the tops of the teeth and I filed two teeth at the heel. I have got to ramp this up and learn how to do it. I've been putting it off saying I didn't have the time to devote to it. That has changed now.

Two things are the impetus for me to get off my dead butt and to start doing this. The first is I'm getting rid of the tablesaw. That means all of my stock break down etc. will be done with hand saws. Hand saws get dull and need to be sharpened. Matt Cianci lives 20 minutes from me but his turn around time is too long. Issac at Blackburn tools doesn't sharpen saws anymore. Bob at Logan's Cabinet Shoppe the last I knew said he would start doing them again. I don't know of anyone else offering saw doctoring. Even same day service for sharpening would be too long for me. This second reason is what is really driving me learning to sharpen my saws.

I can't be without my saws for however long it takes to get them done. This is a skill I'm going to have to pony up to bar and find the time to learn how to do it. A friend mentioned that I should get two saws, one in the shop and one out being sharpened. I did entertain that thought but nixed it. I don't want to get used to using multiple saws.

Paul Sellers just did a blog post where at the end of the day he sharpened some chisels and plane irons and 3 hand saws. That is what I would like to be able to do. The chisels and plane irons I can do and I'll have to learn how to do the saws. I started with a rip saw because they are the easiest to do.

saw filing crappola
 I made this saw filing vise so long ago that I can't remember the year I did it. The box is handy for keeping all the toys I need to file saws with in one place. I have another saw vise (different design) but I'm using this because it presents the saw at a higher height.

what I'm starting with
The teeth aren't too too bad. There are a few that are below the majority of their neighbors but there aren't any broken or missing ones.

the worse teeth
The very last tooth at the toe is just a nub and is barely visible. This tooth being MIA isn't going to effect the other teeth or the ability of the saw to make sawdust.

jointed the tops of the teeth
This operation took a lot of dance steps to complete. When I finally said enough, I still had some bare spots. I made the call to joint just the the teeth that were all about the same height. The ones that are short I'll get to in subsequent sharpenings.

I'm going to use this
I may not need this on this rip saw because I'm doing it with the file set at zero for up/down and the R/L. I want this first one to be relatively easy to do. This is as far as I got in two weeks. Some days I just looked at it with a dumb expression on my face. I did do a lot of constructive reading from Paul Sellers new book on filing saws though.

I have DVDs on saw sharpening by 4 different people. The info in them is basically the same but the techniques between them differ a bit. Having 5 different voices in the brain bucket talking to me will just confuse me. And I got confused down pat without any help from anyone else. So I am picking Paul Sellers and sticking with his methods and teachings. Once I get proficient with this, then I can look at what the others are saying.

3/8" weld rod from Lowes
I was at Lowes right after they opened up. They didn't have any 3/8" steel rod in stock so I got this. It feels funny to me and I don't think I'm going to use it for the cradle.

the bearings all fit on it
I'll check Home Depot tomorrow for 3/8" steel rod. On sundays they open up at 0800 but the Starbucks in the same mall opens at 0600. I can get a coffee while I wait for the doors to open at HD.

all set and ready to go
I got my coffee and the other stuff to start this adventure. I am not going to give a step by step commentary on this. I am not giving a lesson on how to file saws because I don't know how to do it. This is all going to be OJT for me (on the job training) This is my account of what I experienced doing this.

got light so I can see

this is not rocket science
Filing like this is a skill that is easy to learn. And filing doesn't hold any mysteries for me. Seeing the teeth was the most difficult part of this. I didn't like that is was far too easy for me to lose my place on which tooth I was filing. I had to stop a few times because things were blurring together into one.

the after pic of the heel
Paul wrote that one or two teeth that are low aren't a problem. More than that is and if you can't joint the tooth line flush you might have to re-tooth the whole saw. I still had a few teeth that were low but they all have a lot of full height teeth in front of and behind them.

the toe
The very first tooth is still a nub but it's a wee bit bigger than what is was before I started this. Not too bad for my first attempt. The teeth aren't perfectly flush but acceptable I think. As I was filing I was pushing down on the saw and when I got closer to the toe I noticed that the teeth gullets were slightly below the top of the jaws. When I fixed that I could see a slight difference in the depth of the  gullets to the left of that and the gullets to the right.

this light sucks
This light didn't work out for this. I had no adjustment ability with it all. The snake part wouldn't hold itself in position. I could see the teeth by the heel but not as I moved down the tooth line. I couldn't get the light to go along with me. I'll be looking for an alternative to this. This light worked well for doing dovetails but not for saw filing.

another dud
This head magnifier was another dud. I have done a lot of miniature electron circuit repair using a magnifying light and a microscope. I didn't anticipate these being a problem. At first I thought it was my glasses and the mag lens together causing the problem. I took the glasses off and the problem didn't go away. The problem was I couldn't focus and see anything with them.

reading glasses
These were much better then the mag lens thing. I still didn't have a completely clear pic of what I was looking at due the light being gone. Mark Hamil from Bad Axe uses a magnifier lamp. I used something similar for years doing electronics and that is what I'm thinking of getting for this. But they aren't exactly cheap.

this I didn't like
I should say that I ignored it and didn't use it all. As I filed I watched the file and not the end where this was. I do like the finger hold at the end a lot too. Another thing that I'll be getting is a file handle. Holding the tang of the file sucked out loud and after a few teeth it started to hurt to hold it. I took the handle off another file to complete this filing job. This is a must and I ordered a couple of them from Lie Neilsen.

it saws ok
 Before I filed this saw I couldn't feel any set in the teeth. After I filed it, I could feel set. And on my first saw cut I drifted to the right.

this hurt
Sawing with this small saw hurt. It was awkward to hold with this grip and I got control after a few strokes before I was comfortable with it. The hurt came from the horn digging into my hand between my forefinger and thumb.

not quite like a hot knife through butter
Saw cuts 3,5, and 6, are square. On this these I positioned my body differently. Ken had made a comment that my vertical sawing woes might be due to body mechanics. On these cuts I positioned myself to the left of the cut and lined my right shoulder up with the saw. I got square cuts. Where I positioned myself naturally I got cuts that skewed to the right. On the first cut I sawed this one standing the way I just would normally do when sawing like this.

I just sawed away
I think I have something to work on with the body stance when I saw vertically and I'll deal with that later. Here I just wanted to saw as many slots as I could. The last one came off as easy as the first one.

flipped the board 180
The first four cuts I did standing to the left of the saw again. The others I did as I would normally stand and saw vertically. I know that I will have to saw vertically again so I'll keep this stowed in the brain bucket until then.But I proved that I can file a rip saw and saw a whole bunch without it dulling right away.

I'm going to have to go on a rust hunt for some rip saws that I can practice on. This child's saw is the only one I have that I can and want to practice on. I'm not ready yet to file my good rip saws.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is protanopia?
answer - reg-green color blindness

Krenov Style Cabinet from Spain.

David Barron Furniture - Sun, 09/25/2016 - 1:08am

A good customer from Barcelona sent me these pictures of his latest project. This really was built by hand as German has no machinery in his workshop. It took 200 hours to complete.

The drawers are a piston fit, it's always best if possible to design drawers to be longer than they are wide as this makes it easier to achieve.

A nicely fitted panel and some very clean dovetails. I can see he has left the baseline showing which may offend some, but I'm happy either way especially in an open grained timber such as this white oak.

The legs for the stand have been beautifully shaped in black walnut.

A workshop essential, a non marring dead blow mallet, great for encouraging dovetails to seat.

The HNT Gordon spoke shave in action, a great tools and the best spoke shave on the market for working hard woods.

.........and if you were wondering it's purpose, it's a sewing chest.

Categories: Hand Tools

Plane crash

Mulesaw - Sat, 09/24/2016 - 12:26pm
Yesterday my moving fillister plane got a little bit wet. I tried to wipe it off, but I decided that it would be better to place it on top of one of the transformers, so it could dry completely.
I forgot to take it down when it was dry, but the always cooperative gale stricken North Sea helped me with that today.
Go figure if an old cast iron plane survives a fall from 4 feet onto a steel floor undamaged?

Nope, no chance of that happening. The plane is broken in two.

I need a little time with either calm sea or alongside in a place where we are allowed to do hot work to try to fix the plane.
My plan is to braze the two parts together. In order to do that I am going to chamfer the sides of the broken area and line up the parts before brazing.

With a bit of luck I should be able to get the plane back together, and then it will be a matter of some work with a file to make sure the sole is level again. The blade also took a hit, so there's a nick in the cutting edge. But if everything else goes as I hope, that will be a minor challenge.

If only I had observed the 7P's as described by Ralph the accidental woodworker this would not have happened.

The crashed plane.

Categories: Hand Tools

Thoughts Occasioned By An Anniversary . . .

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Sat, 09/24/2016 - 7:22am
 . . . A Plea For a Democratic Art In the October 1904 issue of “The Craftsman” magazine, Gustav Stickley looked back on three years of publishing and many more years as a furniture maker. The article is worth reading … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

A nice video showing the process of hakone marquetry. I love the...

Giant Cypress - Sat, 09/24/2016 - 5:08am

A nice video showing the process of hakone marquetry. I love the jigs used for this process.

If you’re interested in this stuff, check out Nicholas Phillips’ work on the Affine Creations website and Tumblr.


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