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quick gauge - schnelles Streichmaß

Old Ladies - Pedder's blog - Sun, 01/22/2017 - 9:26am
Made a quick gauge from an offcut. 7 mm hole for the pencil, 2 mm hole for the nail. Few more for different distances. Usually I keep the distance with my finger gliding on the edge, but a jig is better to keep all 4 sides equal.

Two nails would be even better. Next week?

Habe ein schnelles Streichmaß aus einem Abschnitt gemacht. 7 mm Loch für den Bleistift, 2 mm Loch für den Nagel. Ein paar mehr für unterschiedliche Abstände. Normalerweise lasse ich den Finger am Rand mitgleiten. Aber mit einem Streichmaß ist der Abstand an alesn 4 Seiten gleich. Zwei Nägel wären wohl noch besser. Nächste Woche?

Categories: Hand Tools

Spill plane build 2, constructing the body.

Mulesaw - Sun, 01/22/2017 - 3:49am
After the blade had rested for approximately 24 hours in vinegar I took it out and cleaned it with a steel brush.
There are a few places with rust pitting, but nothing more than what can be ground away.
I think the vinegar I used was a bit weak compared to what I have used at home, but it got the job done all right.

The blank was first planed flat and square on two reference surfaces that would then be used for laying out the various lines.

For the body I have relied heavily on this article by Darrel LaRU. As Kari Hultman discovered, there is a small thing that is not mentioned in the article, namely that the blade shouldn't sit parallel with the bottom of the plane.

Armed with all this excellent information, I marked out an angle of 60 degrees and one of 10 degrees. The 60 degrees would work fine since my blade is somewhat wider than the blade used by Darrel LaRu. The 10 degrees frog angle would allow me to make a screw up and still stay in the ball park.

In order to find the angles I resorted to some good old trusted mathematics and used a tangential function of a calculator. I did this mainly because it is easy and it was faster than going all the way up to the bridge and borrow a drafting angle.

Making the cut out for the blade was done using a hacksaw (as usual) and some chisels. I ended up using a file to smooth out the bottom so it was as flat as I could get it.
The thing to aim for is that the two corners of the blade are parallel with the top of the plane body. I think that I could have made my cut out a little bit deeper, as that would have allowed me to advance the blade a bit more without getting a thick shaving. Instead I'll have to move the outside fence in a bit on the body. But that is OK with me. The function will still be the same.

After making a wedge to fit the angle, I drilled the escapement hole. I used a 20 mm drill (a bit more than 3/4"). I used the large drill press for that operation.

I ripped a piece of beech to make the back fence. This fence will cover the hole for the blade, and it will also hold the wedge. I just planed one face and one edge of this piece, and mounted it temporarily with the help of a couple of clamps to test the plane.

After the test I marked out the position of the fence and glued it in place.
I like it best when wooden planes are glued together. I may regret that if I have to make some serious adjustment later on, but I think it will look fine.

I am following a bit of the same principles when I am building a small chest out here. I try to make most of the inaccuracies to the outside, and then once all is complete I can square it up and make it look nice.

De-rusted blade. Note the darker area is where the hardened steel is.

Lay out on the blank.

Cut out made for the blade.

Testing the fit of the blade.

Escapement hole drilled.

Initial test.

Back fence glued on.

Categories: Hand Tools

I've crossed the line in the sand.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 01/22/2017 - 3:23am
I have a dilemma that I read about fairly often and especially so right after xmas. I got a gift certificate from Lie Neilsen and it is still unspent. It is stuck in the bookcase on my desk staring at me constantly and asking why don't I like her? Why haven't I gotten that 'I'll die a happy man if I only owned that tool....' feeling vanquished by spending her? It is not a matter of not loving the thought of spending it but rather what to spend it on.

Maybe you better sit down before you read this next sentence or two. I think I finally have all the tools and toys I need, for the foreseeable future. I think I have finally crossed the line in the sand between a tool user to a tool collector. But I like the title of  a tool custodian much better than a tool collector.

I've looked through the LN tool catalog 2,385 bazillion times so far. I have it memorized and I can ruminate through it in my mind and still come up with nothing. Some choices I've thought of so far to get:
3/4" tongue and groove plane - I have a boatload of wooden ones that I can use. Some I have to fettle a bit but I'll get to them sooner or later.
rip or crosscut panel saw - No need for that as I finally got 3 rip saws and more crosscut saws than I will ever need or will be able to use.
bench planes - The LN bench planes are super nice. The only one I really wanted is the miter plane that they no longer make. I find their other planes, although very well made, are too heavy. I prefer the older Stanley's which are lighter and they perform just as well as any LN plane.
block plane - I have the high angle big block plane (9 1/2) and I thought of getting the low angle 60 1/2 sibling.  But I don't use the 9 1/2 that often now that I have the smaller LA102 and the HA 103. I use these two small block planes before I reach for the bigger LN 9 1/2.(LN doesn't make and sell a HA version block plane in any flavor anymore.)
Auriou rasp - I have Auriou rasps and I like them a lot. I have tried to order some in the past but the ones I wanted were always out of stock. I am pretty content with the ones I have and the couple of japanese ones I bought in place of the Aurious I couldn't get. I have pretty much convinced myself that I don't need any other Auriou rasps.

I went through the whole catalog and everything I looked at I no longer lusted for. I think the leading candidate for purchase are the side rabbet planes. I have the Stanley 79 and it works but the irons in it are crap and need to be replaced.  It would be easier to find a cup full of hen's teeth then finding a decent pair of them for a reasonable price. If I get them I will be able to get replacement irons as long as LN still makes it and is still in business when I need one. That is argument I'm having with myself so far but I don't know who is winning. Good thing GC's don't expire.

my small planes
Of these four, the violin plane gets the least amount of use. It is a fully functional plane and it excels at doing small work or fitting into tight areas. The third one from the left is the HA 103 that LN no longer makes. Maybe I have an eBay auction item for my heirs? The bullnose plane doesn't get much use but then again, I haven't had that many instances where I could have used it.

Record 073
This is the last tool I bought before I retired from the Navy. For a long time I didn't fully understand how to use. I also didn't use it because I didn't know how to sharpen the iron in it. I think I have a handle on both of them now and I use this fairly often. And not always to work on a shoulder or a tenon. This plane is really handy for cleaning up rabbets too.

gone from lots to almost no use at all
Before I got the 102 and 103 small block planes, I used the 9 1/2. I like the smaller size and weight of the 102&103 and used them instead. The 9 1/2 can take a heavier or thinner shavings then them so it does have a use. The 102&103 have fixed throats with the 9 1/2 being adjustable.

The edge plane has been demoted to squaring thin stock only now (less then 3/8 thick).

the big boys
The #8 is used to joint edges on long stock. The #7 does the same on shorter boards plus I use it to face plane stock. The #6 has a cambered iron (the only one in my herd with one) and I only use it to plane stock to thickness.

Stanley and LV jacks
Everyone tells me the #5 is the jack of all planes. Well I have one and I don't agree with them. If I had to pick one plane to give up or die, this would be gone. I don't use it that much and it collects a ton of dust inbetween it's infrequent uses. I think this on an every other third moon use cycle.

I like the LV jack plane better than the Stanley. It takes a wider shaving, the iron stays sharper much longer, it has an adjustable mouth, and it is a few frog hair longer. When I bought this, it was a toss up between it and the LN #5.  The LV won because it had a wider iron. I use this plane now for end grain work or on the shooting board for doing angles.

my two 4 1/2's
The Stanley 4 1/2 has supplanted the LN 4 1/2. The Stanley 4 1/2 has become my go to everyday user for everything but pan frying eggs. The LN will get a HA 55° frog (I found it) and it will be used for figured wood or anything I can't plane with the Stanley.

this pushed me over the line (can you tell I love planes)
I knew I was no longer a user after I got my 3rd #4. I have felt the urge to buy more of these but I haven't. It was very hard to resist a type 9 and a type 11 for $50 I saw last week. Now that I know I am a tool custodian, I won't let bargains like that past me by again. The combined age of these 3 planes is greater than the age of the United States.

#3 Stanley
I use this mostly as a smoother after I have planed stock to thickness. I use it on small stock too but it is mostly a smoother.

Stanley 10 1/2
This was my 'the truck is paid off' present to myself. I know how to use it now but the opportunity for using it hasn't popped up yet. This will hog out a rabbet very quickly.

my go to planes - 4 1/2 and a 4
This is something that just happened by itself. I found that when I cleared the bench I would put these two off to the side ready to use.

my go to marking gauge

my go to trio
This was an addition that evolved too. I usually put my tools away when I clear/clean the bench after I'm done working.  I use a marking gauge and the planes on everything I make and leaving them on the bench ready to use makes sense to me.

I keep all of these planes within arms reach or one step away from the bench. Some started out being used one way and have now gone in another direction. Most of these planes have a one use function with some being used more frequently then others. The only planes that are really redundant are the three #4s. I could probably get by with a thinning of the herd but I like the luxury of having all the planes for their specific purposes now. In fact, the three #4s were probably my first step over the line into tool custodian land but I didn't realize it.

way too many
I know I have way more marking gauges than I need. Switching to this style of marking gauge woke something up in me and I have an urge to keep buying them. I bought a mortising gauge from England made during WWII on thursday. I don't need it but it is a piece of history and the pins in the picture were full length and sharp looking. I should get it saturday.

I also bought two more molding planes but I don't consider acquiring them to be tool collecting. One is a small 3/8" ogee  and the other a 1/4" astragal. Molding planes could be a rabbet hole I may never be able to climb out of. There are more of them I would like to get but my problem is I suffer from CRS (Can't remember shit). I have already acquired a few duplicates but I'll be the custodian of them until I pass the baton. And the two new additions aren't duplicates.

I am picky in what I want and also what I am willing to pay for it. On Stanleys I like types 10 to13and I don't want any types above this. On molding planes, I prefer British made ones from about 1850 to the turn of the 1900's. Most of the american made planes I have are pale cousins compared to the British ones.

Of course this hunting will be put on hold for now until I get my new workbench built. I got enough money saved up and next payday I'll buy the Benchcrafted end vise.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What are you afraid if you suffer from Xylophobia?
answer - a fear of wooden objects


Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 2:51pm

I have been cutting some moldings lately for a chest with drawers I’m building. The moldings surround the panels, and the drawer fronts. While I was cutting these, I was thinking about this blog. I started it in 2008, and never thought it would keep going this long. Because I didn’t know what I was doing, I never really organized it well. So there’s lots of photos spread out all over the blog that are useful…but sometimes hard to find. Today, I thought I could just post some photos of period moldings found on New England joined works. So here’s pictures.

a chest from Salem, Massachusetts: Tearout, anyone?

moldings detail

a chest with drawers, Plymouth Colony. This large molding (2″ tall) is integral to the rail, not applied.

molding details, Plymouth Colony chestmolding details, Plymouth Colony chest

Inside one of the Plymouth Colony chests, moldings on the rails and muntins:

interior, Ply Col chest w drawersinterior, Ply Col chest w drawers

Here’s a panel detail from Plymouth Colony. This is a common profile for the period, technically an ogee with a fillet, I think:


This one’s from Chipstone’s website – a Boston chest panel:


This is a muntin from a chest made in Braintree, Massachusetts. I used to make this molding with a scratch stock. I think that cutter is gone now…


This Connecticut (Wethersfield? Windsor? I can never get it straight) chest with drawers was the model we copied last time at Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking. These moldings are oak:

center panel_edited-1

A lousy photo, but if you squint at the ruler’s shadow, you can see the profile of this molding. Dedham Massachusetts chest.


Also Dedham, different chest:


Back to Connecticut, more Wethersfield, Windsor, etc.


a drawer from a Woburn, Massachusetts cupboard:


An ogee on the bottom edge of a table’s apron. Maybe this square table is Boston?



Details on the Deluxe ‘Roubo on Furniture’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 11:55am

lap-roubo-pressmark-1With the impending release of the standard edition of “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture,” we have received lots of questions about the deluxe edition of this book. We don’t know many details at this moment, but here’s everything I know.

The design process for the deluxe edition of “Roubo on Furniture” will begin shortly. Designer Wesley Tanner created both the standard and deluxe editions of “Roubo on Marquetry” – and he designed the standard edition of “Roubo on Furniture.”

The deluxe “Roubo on Furniture” will look and feel the same as the deluxe “Roubo on Marquetry.” Same paper, same binding, same slipcase. We likely will use the same printing press and bindery. So it will be as stunning as the deluxe “Roubo on Marquetry,” which was named one of the 50 “Books of the Year” in 2013 by the Design Observer.

Here’s what’s going to be different: the thickness of the book (it’s almost twice as long as “Roubo on Marquetry”) and the way we will handle pre-publication orders.

Once we get a feel for how many pages the deluxe edition will be, we will be able to set a price – I’m going to guess that it’s going to be be about $475. Then we will open up pre-publication ordering for both domestic and international customers. Everyone who orders a book will get a book (and will get their name listed in the book as a “subscriber.”) After taking pre-publication orders for a month or so, we will close down ordering and go to press. We might print a few dozen extras for ourselves and family, but we are not going to stock this book in our online store after the pre-ordering period.

Then, when the book is done, we’ll mail them out in a custom cardboard (repeat: cardboard) box to protect the book during shipment.

The books will *not* be numbered or autographed. In 2013 we had many people request that we have all the authors sign the marquetry book. We simply cannot do that. We are not in the business of creating collectibles. Apologies.

So now you know everything I know. We’ll get to work on the deluxe edition and update you when we have more information.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: To Make as Perfectly as Possible, To Make as Perfectly as Possible, Roubo Translation, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Cool Nailmaking Video from Austria

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 10:21am

Blacksmith Peter Ross recently sent me a link to the video below that shows production nailmaking of shoe nails in a town in Austria. These guys are working at breakneck speed – forget those modern videos you see of amateur smiths working in their garages. If you’ve never read about pre-industrial nail production, it was a hard life. In the United Kingdom and its colonies, nailmaking was many times a […]

The post Cool Nailmaking Video from Austria appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Stop Spelching with an Unlikely Ally: Sandpaper

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 9:30am

When you shoot end grain with a handplane, you have to be wary of spelching – when the end grain breaks off at the end of your stroke. There are several ways to avoid spelching; one of the quick ways is to use sandpaper. This trick works best when you are just trying to clean up some end grain by removing tool marks. If you are instead trying to correct […]

The post Stop Spelching with an Unlikely Ally: Sandpaper appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

CNC Tooling Basics for Woodworkers

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 6:43am

Part One: Questions & Answers about Mills & Bits Yes, the topic of CNC mills can be complicated. Because of the overwhelming minutiae of design detail and a bewildering number of choices, there’s more than enough to intimidate any CNC user. But, it doesn’t have to be that way. Fortunately, woodworkers have a fairly narrow focus: Cutting wood on a CNC. We have special considerations to consider but the good […]

The post CNC Tooling Basics for Woodworkers appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

WSBO, Wall shelf build-off 2017, considerations.

Mulesaw - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 4:01am
With just a week to go for the biggest event since the American presidential inauguration 2017 takes place, it might be a good idea to start making a few plans regarding the build.

I have decided that I want to replicate the shelf that I made for my 9th grade sloyd exam. It is a small shelf intended to be mounted in a kitchen, with a dowel beneath it for holding a towel or holding a set of hooks that can be used for hanging various utensils.

The overall dimensions of my shelf will be pretty much like the old one that I made. Back then we had 3 hours to complete the build as far as I remember, but we were supplied with processed stock, so basically we only had to do the joinery.
I quickly scribbled down the measurements of the original before going to sea, so I have those to go out from.

This time I have to do stock preparation too, and I figured that I could perhaps use my new Stanley combination plane to make some decorative moulding as well.
As a small challenge to myself I think I will try to see if I can complete the build without using any metal fasteners.

I might try to make a sliding dovetail for the corners to attach to the underside of the shelf.
The corners and the backside of the shelf will then be glued to the back piece. I can then add a few pegs to reinforce it.

The dowel will be wedged into place.

My overall plan of action is to find a decent set of pallet sides during the coming week for the stock.
Come Saturday the 28th, I'll start with crosscutting the shelf to the approximate length, and the set of corners. The dowel will probably be ripped from the shelf piece.

The parts of the back piece will be made from the same length of wood, and I'll rip it to the correct width.
Next there will be some planing to do. The shelf and the corners are approximately 5/8" thick, and the parts of the back piece are 3/8". The dowel too is 5/8".

I am toying with the idea of decorating the back piece with a moulding along all the edges. I'll probably have to make a bit of testing first though.
If I choose to make mouldings, the back piece will be a little more difficult to assemble.Instead of a regular half lap joint with square cuts, it will require the corners to be cut of in a 45 degree angle, so allow the moulding to follow the side around the corner.

If you haven't already signed up for participation it this event, there is still time to do so.
The requirements for entering are very accommodating:
-You have to build the piece in the weekend of January 28/29.
-You decide what you want to build.
-You decide how you want to build it (hand tools, power tools, genetically modifying a plant to grow into the shape of a shelf, carve a shelf out of a rock etc.)
-Share the process online via social media (#WSBO), blog, and/or forum.
- There is no registration fee, and the WSBO is open to all inhabitants on this planet. So whether you live in Andorra, Zimbabwe or in a place that starts with a letter in between - you can participate.

Please check in on the page of Chris Wong and see the full details.

Sketch of the shelf.

Sketch of mouldings.

Categories: Hand Tools

how I fitted the left drawer.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 01/21/2017 - 1:18am
This blog post is how I got the left hand drawer fitted. All the steps I took doing it were the same as what I did on the right one with one exception. I'll get to that a little bit later on in the pic/narrative to follow. It took me about 20 minutes to get the drawer fitted and sliding in and out easily. After that was done I went out to dinner with my wife for a celebratory fish and chips dinner.

out of the clamps and checking it for square
The joints are still together and tight with no gaps. First corner checked is still square.

diagonal corner is still square too
A quick check for twist showed I had none and the drawer was ready to be fitted.

step one: plane the slips flush and square to the sides
done - flush and square
As I did with the right hand drawer, this is all the planing on the bottom of the drawer I will do. All the planing and fitting will be on the sides and top.

checking to see what I am up against
The drawer fits in the left side but not the right.

the left side
Some daylight at the bottom and none at the top.

right hand side
This side barely fits in the opening and won't go in more than a few frog hairs. There is almost no daylight top to bottom here. I will start my planing on the rear end of the drawer first.

planed halfway down the side
repeated it on the other side
I made some squiggly lines on this side to gauge my planing progress.

went in a little bit more
Still see the same from the start - top is tight and daylight at the bottom.

some improvement on the right
A lot tighter at the top on the right side but I have some daylight at the bottom now. The drawer is in on this side about a 1/2". A few more rounds of planing and checking next.

taming my just one more swipe sickness
I am limiting myself to only 2 swipes with the plane before I stop and check the fit. I felt like I could have and needed to take more than two swipes but I resisted it. It may have added a bit more time to finish but I didn't have to say "I shouldn't have taken that last swipe...".

not quite 1/2 way in
I'm still tight at the top but I am slowly increasing how much I can fit into the opening.

right is getting better
I am still tight on the right top also but I have more daylight showing. I am making progress on this.

planing the other half of the drawer
I don't want to plane a taper in the drawer sides so I am going to plane the front half.

planing away
I didn't want to plane anything off of the front of the drawer on that thin front edge. I made sure that the plane iron was ahead of it before I planed from the front to the back.

a little bit past  1/2 way
stopped here to look at this from the back
I have just the opposite on the back right (the front left) where I am loose at the top and tight at the bottom. On the left side I am tight at the bottom up against the drawer guide.

got some rub marks on the drawer side
I switched my planing to mostly at the bottom edge (where I am tight) but I went end for end this time. I did this on both sides and checked the fit again.

a little more than 2/3 of the way in now
Still tight at the top.

right side
Some of the tightness on this side is easing. There is daylight from the top to bottom now.

getting closer
The last two dance steps were planing end to end. I am almost there now..

the exception - using the record 073
I was getting concerned with how much planing I was doing on the drawer sides. I used the shoulder plane to clean some of the interior of the drawer where a straight edge showed a bit of a hump. On my last check from the back, I was still tight on the bottom on both sides.

closed but it is snug
The top left of the drawer front is tight in the corner. I took the drawer out and planed the top left of the drawer lightly. I did this 3 times before I was happy with the fit.

three more cycles later
The drawer fits and it moves in and out without any binding. The top edge of the drawer at the left needed to be trimmed a little. The margin on that side was a closed more than on the right top edge. That was fixed with 2 and then one plane stroke.

not too noticeable
The drawer wiggles about a 32nd left and right. I think I am paying for only planing 1/2 way from the back into the middle at first. The right drawer wiggles too but not as much as the left one. Overall I am very happy with how this turned out. These are the absolute best drawers I have ever fitted to date. This will be the way I'll do my drawers from now on.

I like them inset slightly
my wife likes them flush
I have to agree with my wife this time. Because these will be painted, I think doing them inset, even a little, would make too many problems trying to get the drawers to work properly. With them flush, I won't have to deal with paint build up in the opening.

I like shaker knobs
I don't have clearance from the tower on this yet but shaker knobs are #1 followed closely by shiny brass ones.

the one on the right looks to be the best choice
I'll let you know who won this round tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is hippopotomonstrosesquipedaliophobia?
answer - a fear of long words

New in Store: ‘With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 3:55pm

r2_cover_mockup2At long last, you can now order “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture” from the Lost Art Press store. The price is $57 and the book will ship in March.

Customers who order the book before it ships will receive a free immediate download of a pdf of the book. This offer will end on the day this book ships. As always, the $57 price includes the cost of shipping to customers in the United States and Canada. International customers will be able to order the book from our retailers. (Sorry, but the offer of a free download is not available for international customers.)

Representing a decade of work by an international team (Donald C. Williams, Michele Pietryka-Pagán & Philippe Lafargue), this book is the first English translation of the 18th-century masterpiece: “l’art du Menuisier” by André-Jacob Roubo. This, our second volume, covers Roubo’s writing on woodworking tools, the workshop, joinery and building furniture.

In addition to the translated text and images from the original, “With All the Precision Possible: Roubo on Furniture” also includes five contemporary essays on Roubo’s writing by craftsmen Christopher Schwarz, Don Williams, Michael Mascelli, Philippe Lafargue and Jonathan Thornton.

You can download the complete table of contents here.

“Roubo on Furniture” is filled with insights into working wood and building furniture that are difficult or impossible to find in both old and modern woodworking books. Unlike many woodworking writers of the 18th century Roubo was a traditionally trained and practicing joiner. He interviewed fellow craftsmen from other trades to gain a deep and nuanced view of their practices. He learned to draw, so almost all of the illustrations in this book came from his hand.

The above facts are important because many early woodworking books are filled with information that is not quite right and drawings that were made by non-woodworkers. Not so with Roubo.

No matter what sort of woodworking you do or your skill level, we think “Roubo on Furniture” will expand greatly your knowledge of how fine furniture was (and still should be) built.

Like all Lost Art Press books, “Roubo on Furniture” is made entirely in the United States with quality binding and materials. All of the acid-free pages are sewn together and then bonded with a fiber tape so the book will not fall apart. The cover is a heavy and stiff board covered with cotton cloth. The book is 8.5” x 12” (the same size as “Roubo on Marquetry”) and is 472 pages.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: To Make as Perfectly as Possible, To Make as Perfectly as Possible, Roubo Translation, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Compass Saws Versus Table Saws-Or What’s the Difference?

Paul Sellers - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 1:19pm

Compass saw, are they still valid saws? Well, in my view, yes! Especially if you do indeed want more from using hand tools than their mechanised alternatives. You’ll be surprised how effectively they work provided you do indeed understand basics manufacturers of mass-made saws usually don’t. We’ll cover that as we go. Working on the …

Read the full post Compass Saws Versus Table Saws-Or What’s the Difference? on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Roubo Workbench: By Hand & Power

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 11:29am


The massive French workbench we sold yesterday here on the blog is the subject of an upcoming video on building traditional slab workbenches. Woodworker Will Myers and I built the bench in only three days. And even though we both work on our feet all day, we are both whipped.

The video takes a different tactic than other presentations. Will and I show various ways to tackle each joint in the bench, from 100 percent hand tool to 100 percent power tool and the techniques between those extremes.

As Will and I have built a ton of workbenches (actually more like 132 tons), we also call out what we think are the best techniques for each joint. Some of our conclusions might surprise you, even if you’ve followed both of us for a while.

We also dive deep into strategies for working with wet slabs. This slab was cut only 12 months ago.

The workbench video will be sold streaming on our site and will be available for international customers. It also will include drawings, cutting lists and a list of supplies. I’m guessing it will be available in about seven weeks or so. No work on pricing yet I’m afraid.

We shot the video at the Popular Woodworking Magazine studio with a crew of three seasoned video and sound engineers. I have been 100-percent thrilled with F+W’s work on videos in the past, and so it was an obvious choice to hire them to shoot our video. So expect a lot of great close-up camera work and excellent sound.

In the meantime, enjoy the photos I took of the construction progress. I swear I did 50 percent of the work on the workbench; I was the guy who brought a camera to the shoot.

— Christopher Schwarz

1-slab_img_4041 3-legs_img_4060 8-vise_img_4101 4-joints_img_4065 7-dovetail_img_7139 2-planer_img_4054 6-jigsaw_img_4122 boring_img_4116 5-transfer-img_4104 13-holdfast_holes_img_4149 11-assembled_img_4141 10-dovetailfit 12-planing-stop_img_4148 14-oiled_img_4159
Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

Tool Lubrication & Asher’s First Eggbeater Hand Drill – Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 7:44am

Asher, who turned two last week, shows a promising appetite for woodworking tools. He is a frequent visitor to my home shop, where he examines the tools that he can reach. Mainly he’s drawn to clamps, bench bulls and, recently, a great looking Stanley Handyman hand drill that I salvaged from the trash two months ago. When I say “I salvaged from the trash” I mean I actually picked it up […]

The post Tool Lubrication & Asher’s First Eggbeater Hand Drill – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Shop Update for 1/20/17: Milk Painting a Bookcase

The Renaissance Woodworker - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 5:30am

Love That Two Tone Finish

This bookcase was a lot of fun and I particularly like when I get a chance to do a two tone finish mixing natural wood and paint. I really like that look. I’m using General Finished Cypress Green Milk Paint for the outside of the case and EnduroVar on the natural wood surfaces on the inside of the case. I just cover the Milk Paint application in this update since I’ve shown EnduroVar finishes before.

More Live Coming Soon

Keep an ear open for my next live event as I will be replacing one of these Shop Update videos each month with a live broadcast where I can answer your questions and demonstrate in real time. Its a lot of fun and I look forward to doing it more often. If you haven’t yet, join my email list and you will be notified when these events come up.

Watch an EnduroVar Finish

I used EnduroVar to finish this Dining Table and showed it application in the final video
Categories: Hand Tools

right drawer fitted, left ......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 01/20/2017 - 12:40am
I have done a lot of drawers in the past.  I have gotten everything from crappy and loose to fits ok. I haven't gotten a "wow, that is damn good fitting drawer" until today. It isn't a piston fit but I think it would work in a two stroker. This is the best fitting drawer I have ever done and I had my doubts about getting to this point. Even on my slightly out of square openings and I got a good fit.

what I got wednesday night
I went back to the shop after dinner wednesday night and I planed the two outside edges. This is the fit I got after that. The front is slightly proud at the top and it's a wee bit snug on the sides. Or it could be on the top, I haven't looked at it yet.

right side
head on
Even with this drawer not fitting, it is still the best I've done on one so far.

started the fitting tonight by looking at the back
The left top corner is tight and the right top corner has some daylight. I took the drawer out and there were some rub spots on left outside. In order to keep my 'just one more swipe....' in check, I planed two swipes with the plane and checked the fit.

side and back is done, need to work on the front
I've got the drawer to go in almost all the way. I switched from taking two swipes to one and checking the fit. It took four more single swipes before the drawer fully closed.

fully closed
Now that I got it to close, the front top right corner is a bit too snug and I planed it two swipes.

I took one swipe off of the front left side too
The drawer opens and closes without any binding anywhere along it's length of travel. The drawer fits into the opening smoothly and I didn't have to steer it in one direction or another to close it. This came off so good I wet myself with excitement. This may change because it will be painted. For that I will need to increase the margins to allow for the paint thickness. For now it will stay as is

fixed the blowout with blue tape
Even though this is going to be painted, I am going to do all woodworking as if it were being left natural.

gluing the front center of the drawer bottom to the front
three brads in the back
All the right hand drawer needs is a knob. But I haven't gotten clearance from the tower on that yet.

left hand drawer
 I can fit both corners of the drawer in the opening, one at a time.

too wide to fit this way
using my new saddle square
There are ridges on both faces that makes it easy to hold the square with two fingers this way.

this slip is toast
The slips have a R and a L as well as a top and bottom. I sawed the notch on the wrong end. And I don't have any more of this stock to make a new one.

found another piece
This is the reason why I left the plane set up. I can plow a groove in this and it will line up with the groove in the drawer front. The top part of the slip doesn't matter that much if it is bigger or smaller.
I was going to make only one slip but this scrap is long enough to make two new ones. I went that way because the two slips will match.

sawing off the rabbeted part on the right
it's square
It doesn't matter if the top of the slip is square. It will be rounded over and it doesn't care if it square to start with or not. I made it square to keep in practice for when I will have to make something like this square.

how I got in trouble the last time
There is a wide side (facing the bottom) and a thinner side (faces up) on the slip. The notch is cut on the thin side. I erased these marks and placed the slip in the correct orientation and marked it again.

it'll be ready to fit in the opening tomorrow
Sawed the slip notches correctly on both, rounded over the thin sides, and glued them in place. Before I did that, I sawed the bottom and checked the fit of it ok.

Fitting this last drawer, getting knobs, and painting is all that is left to do. I bought some citric acid powder from amazon and I'll have it for the weekend. I want to try out the derusting with it and compare it to evaporust.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is your problem if you have Bathmophobia?
answer - a fear of stair and steep slopes

Pie Safes of the One Percent (1%).

The Furniture Record - Thu, 01/19/2017 - 10:02pm

More like pie safes of the 15% but 1% has more punch.

Pie safes are one of those ubiquitous items that seem to be found in almost every antiques mall in the US. Just like those cobalt viobots (violin bottles) with ears (tuning pegs):


Referred to as a viobot to those in the know.

There is such a wide distribution of these two items that I have a theory that they are required, it not by law, then by the secret cabals that run all the antiques malls in 46 of the lower 48 states. (They’ve been driven out of New Hampshire and Oklahoma.)

Pie safes have been around since the 1700’s protecting high value foods from whatever pests and vermin that have chosen to dwell in the encompassing dwelling. I have a previous blog with too much information and too many pictures HERE.

Most pie safes look ordinary and plain, not unlike this one:


The pie safe ordinaire. Southern Punched Tin Painted Pie Safe. This lot has sold for $500.


The not-so-ordinaire punched tin.

But the elite 17% can’t be expected to use ordinary pie safes, they need something a bit more interesting. Because they can afford it.

Like this one:


Southern Punched Tin Food Safe from Virginia This lot has sold for $2200.


With more elaborate punched tins.

And since it is a superior pie safe, it has dovetailed drawers:


One steep pin with all its helpers, the nail family.

(It wouldn’t be my blog without dovetails.)

Another example:


Virginia Punched Tin Pie Safe. This lot has sold for $2000.


Punched tins on three sides.


Wedged dovetails, often a German thing. Looks like it might have been painted in the past.

And a fancy punched tin to match:


A more sophisticated fylfot design.

I worked very hard to find the word fylfot. I was trying to avoid swirling swastika or pinwheel. I knew the phonetics of the word but not the spelling. I looked at hundreds of images before I found a picture of the cover of Furniture in the Southern Style by Robert W. Lang and Glen D. Huey. Seeing the cover, I walked over to the bookshelf and found my copy, looked on page 144 and found the word fylfot. A quick google search showed me fylfot translates as swastika. Ya can’t win…

Fylfot was also used in the auction listing had I bothered to read it.

As we enter a new era, I wanted to show a pie safe from the other 17% as represented by this safe:


White Punched Tin Pie Safe. This lot has sold for $430. The pie safe for the rest of us.


This one has a punched tin on all four sides.


View from the inside shows the built up nature of this design.

Woodcarving With Bill (laying the foundation)

Billy's Little Bench - Thu, 01/19/2017 - 4:53pm
During the past week I have uploaded 3 NEW Videos to my Woodcarving with Bill channel over on YouTube. This entire process at this point is to lay a solid foundation for woodcarving. Yes, that includes learning to sharpen all the different types of tools used in carving. Once the foundation is complete, within a week or two, then the projects will begin to flow. 

   Some may ask, "Why make the sharpening videos? Why the basic stuff? Isn't enough of that out there already?"   Yes, yes it is. I own dozens of books that show how to sharpen, hold the tools, and use them for basic tasks. And there are others who have produced videos on these subjects in great detail. However, not everyone teaches the same way, explains things the same, nor do we all learn the same way. For that reason I am laying the foundation for a well informed beginning woodcarver. My hope is that when someone with little to no experience discovers my channel they will be able to return to their shop and perform the tasks in each video. 

    With that said, the most important thing to learn in woodcarving is how to sharpen and handle your tools. If the tools are not properly sharpened, well, it's going to be a long road to failure, and I really don't like seeing people fail at things. 

   My mission is to simply get as many people as possible carving wood, enjoying the process, and having fun in their shops. 

   So please, spread the word, share the videos, and subscribe if you are at all interested in learning to carve wood. This first year is going to be very interesting and I can't hope to grow the channel without a little help from my friends. Stay tuned for more updates and uploads.
Categories: Hand Tools

Sharpen a Scraper – Ron Hock Shows You How

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 01/19/2017 - 12:09pm
sharpen a scraper

Sometimes, a smoothing plane just can’t get things smooth enough (think reversing grain) – and if you’re a handplane user, you probably prefer not to pick up the sandpaper (thought it’s sometimes unavoidable). In that case, you turn to the handy card scraper. A scraper can perform miracles that a plane cannot…except that Ron Hock says once you turn a burr on the business edge of a scraper, you’ve basically […]

The post Sharpen a Scraper – Ron Hock Shows You How appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Great Tip for Bobbin Sanders

David Barron Furniture - Thu, 01/19/2017 - 11:48am

Changing the sleeve on your bobbin sander can be a real struggle. When I bought mine, I remember them telling me to use talcum powder but on this 4" by 9" drum there was no way. Of course to those in the know (thank you YouTube) there is a much better way. Put the whole thing in the freezer for an hour and the rubber shrinks enough to get the new sleeve on with no trouble. Of course you have to wait another hour until it warms up before you can use it.
The only thing I would add to this great tip, is to tell the wife about it afterwards or better still don't tell her at all!

Categories: Hand Tools


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