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This update will be another lump job like the previous one. It is mostly ancillary tools and do-dads that make the road less bumpy.
|sharpening stuff is a bit on the lean side|
Having sharp tools is very important and I want to impress this on Miles. He'll be young enough that it will probably become second nature with him.
|hand power required|
The 1/2" breast drill (in the box) will be rehabbed and given to Miles. I had bought him a set of auger bits but I returned them. Out of eight bits, 7 of them had no threads on the lead screw. Useless, so back they went. I want to see the next set before I buy another. Undecided on getting him a small eggbeater drill. I saw one on the hyperkitten site and I didn't get it like an idiot.
|basic shaping and finishing set|
|flattened and shined the sole, the retaining bar, and the thumbscrews|
|I will have to strip and paint this now|
|Miles's Olsen coping saw|
|this is what won't stay put|
|the second drawer|
|last joint going together off the saw|
|dry square ok|
|snug fit between the slides.|
|cleaned the bench|
|a plug for Autosol|
|it's not twisted|
- I rely on my bench to be flat. I can check it for twist but I don't have anything 8 foot long to check it for flat with. I used a lot of critical eyeballing along with copious scratching of the bald spot to check it for flat.
|second dovetail job today|
|2nd one went together off the saw too|
|it's going where the second drawer is cooking away|
|it will be a tray for the top of the tool cabinet|
|this drawer is going away|
Did you know that the wheel on the game show 'Wheel of Fortune' is 8 and 1/2 feet in diameter?
I’ve gotten back working on my version of George Washington’s partner’s desk. (I posted about scratch-stocks used on the legs and other inexpensive shop-made tools I’ve used.) Today, take a look at the setup and process to make George’s faux drawers, which are found on the ends of the original desk. In my version the back sections are also faux – if it were a true partner’s desk it would have functioning drawers on both sides.
|good selection of squares|
|What I want to add to the square till|
|most of the layout/measuring stuff is in the top two tills|
I got hooked on the Lee Valley sliding square and it gets a lot of use in my shop. I traded a 6" Delta jointer for it. I think I got the better part of that deal. The only thing I gave him that I don't use much myself anymore is the 24" centering rule.
|3 marking gauges|
|both are single pin with dual beams|
|the only difference|
|he'll be getting one of these for sure|
|3" mortise gauge|
|has long length, sharp pins|
|the final part of the layout and measuring herd|
|first drawer bottom installed|
|it's now a C bend|
|prepping the stock for the second drawer|
|I need to find a home for this|
Did you know that a qubit in Quantum Computing is a two state unit of quantum information?
One of the more recent additions to the WW18thC conference has been Ted Boscana’s crew from the CW housewright shop. I never fail to learn a lot from these presentation/demonstrations and find Ted to be enjoyable company when we are together. This year the Joiner’s Gang was reproducing some architectural-scale cornice moldings and I found their approach to be immensely engaging.
Ted divvied up the sections of the molding profile among his posse of Amanda, Peter, and Scott and they set to work.
Although the scale at which they were working lends itself to segmented work, they were also demonstrating some of the complex planes in the CW collection.
As a finale, with one of the large complex molding planes, Ted placed his full weight over the plane body and the posse pulled him along on top of the workpiece with a rope.
PopWood Playback is a series we started on YouTube at the beginning of the year where we share the best woodworking videos of the week. If you have a video that you made or a video that you are in to, leave a link in the comment section and we’ll consider it for next week! Congrats to the winner of the Bora Roller Stands – Douglas D. of Evansville, MN! Top […]
The post PopWood Playback #7 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Feel free to chime in on anything you think I need to add or maybe take away. I am not shooting for getting every toy available but a decent starting set for him to learn and grow with. He can add/subtract as he wants if it keeps up with it.
|Miles's toolbox and tills|
|the big toolbox|
|it's on a rolling dolly|
|the saw till|
|I'll be putting the coping saw in the lid|
|rip and crosscut panel saws|
I think I'm set on saws for Miles. He should be able to build whatever he wants with this set. A couple of things I want to add to the saw till is a saw set and some files so he can sharpen these. He can make his own saw vise as a shop project.
|tote screw and a carbide bit to drill holes|
|the coping saw holder from my saw till|
|corners were too tight|
|screws punched through|
|room for another saw|
Tomorrow I'll post about the measuring do-dads I stuffed in the toolbox.
Did you know that the Great White Shark is the largest predatory fish in the world?
I installed the 2nd lock the other day. The first one was here – https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2018/02/08/locks
This one was easier because I was fitting it in a chest, not a box. I don’t often do these so I cut an entire housing in a piece of scrap first.
After taking some measurements from the lock, I scribed a centerline and then located the keyhole. When I bored it, I used a square to help align the bit.
One step I forgot on the box lock the other day was the housing on the top edge of the rail/box front. Here I marked it out with a chisel, then chopped & pared it. This notch is quite shallow, but helps snug the lock down into place.
Next comes sawing, chopping and paring to cut the multi-tiered housing for the lock and its moving parts. I scribed the limits with an awl & square, and marking gauge.
When chopping, I braced my hip/gut against the chest front to support it while knocking against it. I wish I had cut this when the parts were un-assembled…but if wishes were horses, beggars would ride.
It’s easy to cut the depth of this housing un-even. I kept chopping and then paring across the grain.
This is the housing just about done – it needs to go lower to reach down to the scribed line.
At this point, I got the lock ready to install, but first had to extend the keyhole. I scribed about the bottom of the key, and bored & chopped the rest.
Still not installed; I get it this far – then scribe the rectangle where the staple from the lid will fall into the lock. That wood needs to be cut away.
At this stage, I’ve nailed the lock in place, and added the escutcheon too. Its nails are quite short, if they are too long, they can interfere with the lock. Once it’s done, I lock the staple in place and mark the underside of its plate with a Sharpie/felt marker – then close the chest lid. And lean on it.
That leaves some impressions in the underside of the chest lid. Two divots from the feet of the staple. And a smudgy black rectangle showing where to pare the lid to engage the plate. I took a small carving gouge to hollow out a spot for the staple’s feet.
A benefit of a pine lid is that this operation is easily done. Well, still awkward up in the air, but it’s not oak at least.
Once I had it where I wanted it, I bored pilot holes for the nails. Reamed those holes, and drove the nails.
Then, test the lock & key. If all goes well, then you clinch those nails on top of the lid.
I wanted to see how the lock worked from the inside. But it’s very dark in there. If you’re going to be locked inside for any duration, I suggest bringing a light.
With the challenge of interpreting a decorated 18th century tool chest, the three maestros from the Anthony Hay Shop – Kaare Loftheim, Brian Weldy, and Bill Pavlak – took stage to discuss and demonstrate the paths that they had taken individually to fulfill the task. Soon the small stage was filled with tool chests old and new.
I found this to be a fascinating discourse on not only the organization of tools within the chest but the selection and availability of the tools themselves. Three makers, three approaches to the problem.
I think this was Kaare’s earlier replica of the Seaton tool chest.
I grew up working in my dad’s custom woodworking shop standing in a pile of shavings on the outfeed side of a 24″ planer. Oh sure, we had dust collection, but we (me) frequently got too lazy to go empty the ten-foot-cubed collector into fifty-five gallon drums and drag them to the dumpster. So frequently I stood in a pile of shavings. Ah, the luxury of the good old days! […]
|starting to rust on the back|
|two patent dates and a rusting frog area|
|small parts out of the EvapoRust|
|rinsed and blown dry|
|came pretty clean with Krud Kutter and a blue scrubbie|
|inside doesn't look the same|
|sandpaper always works|
|this knob has had the snot beat out of it|
|shined on the buffer|
|Lee Valley sent another one|
|road tested my chamfer brace bit|
|filed it some|
|easier to make the chamfers|
|did a better job of filing it|
|far left hole is toast|
|tried it in pine|
|sticky 80 grit|
|it's pretty close to flat|
|Krud Kutter cut the crud|
|that is some nasty looking grunge|
Did you know that a kazoo is classified as a membranophone?
Thank you brothers and sisters, before you find your seats please greet one another with the secret handshake.
Ahem . . . Norm . . .Mr. Abram. . . It's ok you can shake Mr. Underhill's hands. Well he's a little intense but he is a nice guy.
What? No you can't catch "Brace And Bit Fever" from a simple handshake, that's a nasty myth. Besides Mr. Abram I'm certain your electron shots are all fully up to date and you're in no danger.
See, we can all get along and play nice. Oops, it seems Roy has managed to cut himself on your beard, well that's never stopped Roy from going on with the show and I suppose we should follow his example.
To the reason I've called you all here. I want to announce we have acquired a new member! Several evenings ago I had the young James Martens to the shop. He'd found a lonely pile of maple alongside a back country highway, oddly already glued up into turning blanks. The maple was cold so he invited it into his warm cargo van, the one with the blacked out windows, and offered it a job in his shop.
Mr. Martens knew I had a lathe and the threading box and tap needed to make a moxon, (Though we all agree how elegant the less folksy options are hailing from Iowa and Texas) and he asked my assistance and I was happy to give it.
I set him up on the lathe and let him go to town and before the evening was over another glorious miracle of wood mashing mastery was brought into this world and I congratulated Mr. Martens on his new membership to our exclusive club.
We both held back tears as the vise attempted it's maiden clamping. I am happy to report it was a success.
So, fellow members of the IAMVO, when you spy the young James, whether in the wild shopping for major appliances or at his usual station sharpening and building saws for Bad Axe Tool Works greet him warmly, offer him the secret handshake, and ask how his vise is doing.
I hereby declare this meeting at an end. All in favor?
Ratione et Passionis
In the February issue of Festool Heaven, Morton compares the Festool DF500 with the Festool XL DF700, to help you understand which tool is right for which job.
Watch the video below and figure out which Festool Domino is right for your shop. And check out Festool Heaven for more details on these fine tools.
Like other presenters at this year’s confab Patrick Edwards had two sessions presenting his own topic of specialty, the techniques and compositions of marquetry. His first session revolved around his replication of the underside of the lid of Jane Rees’ tool chest lid, walking the audience through not only his conceptual approach but the bench-top manifestation of it. The second continued the theme of marquetry artistry, including making a blade for the chevalet.
Of particular fascination to me were the vintage veneer saw and shooting plane he used. I took enough of both of them to make versions of them myself, and surely I will.
I’ve known Patrick for more than three decades and seen him present several times, and every instance is a learning experience for me even though I cut my teeth restoring French marquetry in the 1970s. Patrick’s demonstration of making templates with his vintage pricking machine and transferring the pattern to multiple sheets necessary for the undertaking for sawing on the chevalet was a choreography to be savored.
I’ve always had an appreciation for green woodworking. Not that I’ve done as much of it as I would like, but the idea of being able to walk into a forest, harvest some wood, then walk back into the shop and go to work … well, it’s getting in touch with our pre-industrial DNA. Oh, and it feels pretty good not to pay lumber yard prices for air-dried birch! Green […]
The post Woodworking for the Impatient – How to Make a Windsor Rocking Chair and More appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
|might as well|
I won't be stripping it today but maybe tomorrow I'll do it. Now that I am doing it I can't wait to see how this one comes out. This plane has some pitting on the cheek walls and I want to see if I can lap them out. This will be my first time doing something like that.
|started the rehabbing last night|
|one last scrubbing|
|they are a lot cleaner|
|these parts will be ready tomorrow|
|the frog side|
|got a reply from Lee Valley|
|undersized for a 1/4" (0.250) hex bit|
|phillips hex bit|
|finishing screwing the drawer|
|needed some help|
|marking the bottom|
|1/2 a frog hair wide|
|funny looking counter bore|
|the other counter bore|
Did you know that mendacious means not telling the truth, lying?
Editor’s note: This article was excerpted from Bob Flexner’s article “How to Remove Watermarks“ Photo: Jon Chase (The Wirecutter) Light marks are milky-white and are caused by moisture getting into the finish and creating voids that interfere with the finish’s transparency. To remove milky-white watermarks, you need either to consolidate the finish (eliminate the voids) to the point that the transparency is reestablished or cut the film back to below […]
The post How to Remove and Fix White Rings from the Apple HomePod appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
I’ll get back to my recounting of WW18thC 2018 tomorrow, but for today I wanted to pick up the thread of the project to interpret an early 19th century mahogany writing desk.
With the full-size prototype built in southern yellow pine from my pile of bench-building stock it was time to move on to the real thing in mahogany.
But first I had to break my hip and lose more than half a year of shop time. One of my favorite jokes of all time involves a Calvinist who trips and breaks his ankle. “Finally,” he says, “I am glad to get that over with.” There’s nothing like some predestination humor to get the day started right.
As I wrote many moons ago I wanted to not only build the early-19th century desk with period appropriate technology, using power equipment only for “apprentice work,” I also wanted to use the best vintage lumber I could find. Casting my net as widely as possible among my circle of woodworking friends I was able to acquire small amounts of spectacular sweitenia from more than a half dozen sources. No single source was enough to accomplish the project, but en toto I obtained enough to build several desks, which I eventually will in hopes there are clients out there who want one.
The most difficult piece to find was the single slab of 30″x 20″ 5/4 mahogany for the desk top. Three stalwart friends responded and soon I was getting quizzical looks from Rich the UPS driver as he pulled up with securely swathed slabs of wood. You can get a sense of the scale as I believe that is my #8 in the frame.
Perhaps the most surprising source for lumber was the orthopedic surgeon who repaired my hip. As we were meeting for my final “turn me loose” appointment he asked me what I was working on, and I told him about this desk project. Although I knew he was a decorative turner I had not known he was an enthusiastic furniture maker in years past, and he told me he had a storage unit filled with vintage lumber he had acquired over the years. A couple months later we got our calendars to intersect and I went to meet him there, and wound up buying all the mahogany he had. He told me that this stash could be traced back to pre-WWI sources and based on the quality of the lumber I believe it. Similar stories accompanied the rest of the acquisitions as the lineage of mahogany inventories lives on in perpetuity, it seems.
Since the writing box of the desk was veneered, having just the right board for for making those veneers was crucial. Fortunately that was one piece I had in-hand already, having acquired it perhaps forty years earlier at an estate sale for a woodworker who had no end of fabulous lumber. Alas I did not have the money to buy more than a few pieces, and this was one of them. I was saving it for just the right project, and this was it. This dense, hard, and spectacular Cuban mahogany was nothing but delightful to work with.
Ditto the flame veneers needed for the outside surfaces of the legs. I cannot even recall when I bought four slabs of crotch lumber, but they too were waiting for just the right project.
The structure of the desk was simple enough and I soon had all the pieces cut and ready for fitting assembling. But before final assembly could happen I needed to address all the hand-cut curvilinear moldings on the edges of the legs.
In part one we introduced tools for standardization. These are the measuring tools that you also use to verify and quality your other tools. Every woodworker should have a high-quality combination square at the very least. In part two, I covered basic measuring tools: rules, tapes, and squares. Certainly, these are the tools that get the biggest work out in woodworkers’ shops. And, now it’s time to dial it up a […]
The post Precision Instruments for Woodworkers – Part Three: Tools for Precision appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Here’s a tip on how to cut curves on the bandsaw. When cutting a circle or an odd shape from a square piece of lumber on a bandsaw, you’ve probably dealt with the annoying corners that try to pull the material out of your hands as they catch on the bandsaw’s table. Then there’s the additional annoyance of the blade binding in a weird curve. A few extra cuts on […]
The post Tricks of the Trade: How to Cut Curves on the Bandsaw appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.