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Last week, Marissa Bowers (our wonderful designer, who’s been helping us out while we seek a new permanent art director) mentioned she had been looking for a set of picture rails – and wondered aloud if it was something we could build in the shop. Ever eager for an excuse to bring everyone out to the shop, we decided that everyone in the office could use their own, and I (Brendan […]
|wavy tooth line|
|whoa big doggie|
|I like this one|
|Lee Valley file jointer.|
|it' better but not complete|
|makes rip cuts easily|
|a couple of shoulder cuts|
I'm leaning in the direction of sending it out and having it filed properly. The tooth line on this saw isn't perfect either. It is almost straight and there aren't any missing teeth. If a pro does it I'm sure I can follow on that and keep it in good shape.
|never thought of doing this before|
|nice clean knife line - sharp cures another problem|
|trying out the 140 again|
|nice clean shoulder|
|no slant to outboard on this practice run|
|slanted across the width|
|corrected - flat, straight, and even end to end|
|the action of the plane is very sweet|
|skew blocks for the LN honing guide|
|I like this saw|
|found a box for the 140|
|lots of room|
Who was Juan Sebastian Elcano?
answer - he was the first person to circumnavigate the world (He assumed command after Magellan was killed in the Philippines)
In my November 2017 editor’s note, I wrote about two $5,000,000 lawsuits filed against Menard’s and Home Depot for “false and misleading advertising” for selling 2×4 lumber that isn’t actually 2″ x 4″. You can read that here, if you like. Last night, Nicholas Vanaria (a friend from Instagram) let me know that the suit against Menard’s was dismissed. U.S. District Judge Edmond Change threw out the case on October 6. […]
I woke up on Sunday morning feeling a little under the weather. My back was a little stiff, I had a headache, and I didn’t sleep very well on top of it. I almost put my Washington’s Desk project on hold, but I knew that if I didn’t get started I probably never would. So I cleared out the garage and got to work.
The plan was to mill up enough material for the desk top, the breadboard ends, the legs, as well as cleats for the desktop underside and the cross stretcher. So I chose 3 boards, two 6 footers and one 4 footer (all of the boards were 12 inches wide by 1 inch thick). To mill down those boards I used my Ryobi surface planer. For the record, this isn’t what I consider a great or even good tool. I purchased it almost 14 years ago while doing a kitchen remodel. It does the job, but it is loud and messy. Nonetheless, I had to work with the tools I have, so I checked the blades, and they were reasonably sharp, so I started milling.
What made this such an arduous process was the collection of the shavings. Because I rarely use power tools, I don’t have a dust collector or even a large shop vac. The shop vac I do have is perfectly fine for cleaning out a car or keeping a workbench clear, but it is not made for large scale work. But once again I had to use what was available, and it was not fun. Initially, I was hoping to finish up with two boards just over 7/8” thick for the top and one board just over ¾” thick for the legs. But, I underestimated the amount of material I needed to remove. The boards I was working with were very rough sawn, as in just a shade beyond still having bark. So I had to remove nearly ¼” of material just to get down to usable boards that were flat. And it also meant a lot of starting and stopping to empty out the shop vac. I was actually sore from the constant bending over to pick up the shavings, which I did at the very least fifty times. In the end, I filled up an entire lawn bag with shavings.
After the boards were milled I used the table saw to trim the two boards for the desk top to rough width and length (as well as getting rid of planer snipe). I then aligned the boards for a nice grain pattern (at least to my eye), and trimmed the boards to very near final size. To join the boards I decided to match-plane them.
Match planing works well, especially if your plane is set properly. I used a strange sequence: jointer plane first, a couple of passes with a jack plane set to take gossamer thin shavings, jointer again, and then one final pass with the jack. I’m not sure how other woodworkers match-plane, but when I am able to take a full width, full length shaving from both boards I call it joined. And in a surprisingly short time the boards were ready to be glued. I am very happy with the joint, as it was air tight, and the top is thankfully nice and flat. It will take a good amount of plane work and sanding, and probably some scraping as well (there are a few funky grain spots) to get the top ready for finish, but I should have a top ¾ thick when all is said and done, which is a bit less than I wanted, but hardly the end of the world.
At that point, I decided to call it a day. There was a lot, and I mean a lot, of clean up to do. In fact, I spent nearly as much time setting up and cleaning up as I did woodworking. This coming weekend I am hoping to get the legs sawn to finish length and width, the breadboard ends ready, and with a little luck I may possibly have the entire base and desk top ready for assembly. I was a little worried over laying out the legs, but I figured out a simple solution that I will detail in my next post.
If you’ve been looking for an affordable workbench to take your shop to the next level, look no further than the European Workbench, available at Highland Woodworking.
In the video below, Morton shows off the diverse capabilities of the European Workbench.
|this is past due|
|every shop needs a few different sizes of these|
|there's the yoke pin|
|all blown dry|
|a moment of weakness|
Gaps on the inside of dovetails bug me for whatever reason. I think what is causing it is I'm moving my knife line ever so slightly as I chop. I have come close a few times with almost no gaps but I have yet to do any 100% gap free. I got this for the fixing the gaps more than for registration. I also got it because Deneb said it will make bread board ends.
|it's a heavy one too (one kilo)|
|run a gauge line|
|I figured it out|
The problem was me digging into the wood too hard with gauge. My attempt to make the line as deep as I could was too much for the gauge. I just happened to look at the cutter wheel as I was trying to make a deeper line and I saw the cutter wheel peel off like a shaving coming up through the mouth of a plane.So I think if I let up on the depth of the line, my cutter wheels should last. I forgot to add them to the LN order when I bought the 140 block plane.
|I am not doing something right here|
I think I made a mistake in not removing the right side plate on the plane. That would allow the iron to get up tight into the bottom of the rabbet. The shoulder on this looks like crap and it should be crisp and clean.
|better on the second run|
|new saw for Miles's toolbox|
|a carcass saw?|
|ripped ok but the saw is dull|
|hard to crosscut|
|the teeth look like crap (Disston #4)|
|small rip saw - jointing the the tops of the teeth|
|the toe after I sharpened them|
|time to test my work|
|not too bad|
|not bad for my second attempt at sharpening|
|missed a few|
|sharpie marks the rework spots|
What is a nonce?
answer - something that is made or used only once
Check out the new “Library” and “For Sale or Trade” tabs in the menu. Here’s why:
Over the summer, new guild member Barb Siddiqui donated a treasure trove of mostly hardback woodworking books to us. In other words, we have a library! Included in the 500+ titles are some of the best ever published: all of The Best of Fine Woodworking books, woodturning books, carving books, books on making period furniture, you name it.
The library is housed at Lombard’s Hardwoods, and all volumes are available for check-out by guild members. In the notebook provided, print your name and contact info, along with the names of the titles you are borrowing, then be sure to bring them back. If someone might want a page or two copied out a particular book, we recommend taking a picture of the pages with your phone or tablet.
The “For Sale or Trade” idea has been bandied around for awhile now, and since yours truly (Autumn) will have to make all of the postings and updates, I was skeptical about starting it, but we’ll give it a go and see where it goes. I’ll do my best to keep it updated.
If you have a woodworking related item to sell or trade, send me the info, with photos, to email@example.com. Be sure to provide your name (some email addresses are obscure) and your contact information. Please send me an email advising me when to take down the posting, otherwise, you’ll keep getting inquiries.
Darrell Peart is coming to town! Date and other info are on the sidebar.
In preparing for the sessions at The Anthony Hay Shop of CW I decided at the last minute to toss in the materials needed to make sandpaper, not knowing whitener or not there would be any interest. It turned out that a lot of the participants were indeed interested, and several told me a very common question from the visiting public was some variation of, “Did they have sandpaper in the old days?”
So I’m glad I had what was needed.
We started with moderate weight rag paper, albeit machine made, not hand cast (maybe next time).
Wetting the paper both sides relaxed it so it would pucker less when the hot glue was applied to one side.
We were using 135 gws glue since it had plenty of adhesion properties plus was much more flexible than higher grades, making it more usable since it would not fracture when bent.
Once the glue has been on the paper long enough such that it is tacky but not wet, the surface is sprinkled with fine frit, the ground glass that was often used as the abrasive for some ancient sandpapers (hence the common terminology of “glass paper”). You want the glue tacky enough to adhere the frit, but not wet enough to soak into it and turn it into a big chunk on the surface.
The glued sheet with frit is shaken or brushed so that the frit covers the whole surface, and the piece is set aside. Once the glue has hardened adequately the excess frit is brushed or shaken off and the sheet is allowed to dry fully.
And voila’, you have a genuine new piece of antique sandpaper about 180 grit.
Three years ago I learned about dynaGlide Plus from Richard Welder at Micro Fence. It is a Silicone and Teflon free dry boundary lubricant. I have used it principally to clean the swarf off the bearing surfaces of my shooting boards and to lubricate them. It functions well on metal planes, edge tools, bits, bearings, and abrasive surfaces.
Vogt Toolworks is now a distributor. Click here to view the Product Page.
Woodworker, author, actor, humorist and all-around nice guy (with a most excellent giggle) Nick Offerman and Offerman Woodshop are teaming with Would Works through October 30 for a $20,000 fundraising campaign. Would Works is a Los Angeles non-profit that teaches people who are homeless or who live in the city’s Skid Row neighborhood create and sell handcrafted wood items as they work toward a specific financial goal – simple goals many […]
The post Nick Offerman Woodworking Non-profit Matching Grant appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
I just finished a desk commissioned by some clients who wanted the piece to be made from a walnut log they’d had lying around a few years – in other words, longer than ideal. They had it sawn and kiln-dried this summer and brought the boards out to my shop in September. My clients wanted to keep the live edges on the desktop, which posed a challenge: Their log had […]
Football doesn't hold sway over me like it used to which I am ok with. If push came to shove, I would rather be in the shop anyways. I would have been in the shop today but my thumbs ached something fierce today. So I thought it best to give them a rest. If the game doesn't interest me I can search the WWW for an iron and a chipbreaker.
|quiet time work|
|LED reflection off 600 grit|
|autosol on the sole|
|Miles's block planes|
|about the same length|
|motors revving and ready to go|
|L and R shavings|
|I'm stowing them in the big till for now - they won't fit in the top ones|
|the #6 will fit|
|my 7/8 T&G planes|
|it's a match|
|my shrinking collection of T&G planes|
I'm going through all my wooden planes and I'm passing on all my extras. I thought I had a few more beading planes but it looks like I already passed them on. Out of the 5 sets of T&G planes only two are usable and the other 3 need work on the irons.
|these are my problem planes|
|it is a complex molder|
|this is a beading iron|
|from a plane that is an astragal|
|3 molders I wanted|
|I'll come back to this one|
|these four just need to be sharpened|
|these are being passed on|
|the plane from 3 pics above|
|the front of the iron|
|the back of the iron|
|brass adjuster knob off the corrugated #6|
|the backside looks even worse|
|I can reuse the barrel nuts|
|string on the finger|
|which one is which|
|both soles are flat|
|the after pic of the adjuster knob|
|nice and shiny|
What was the original title for the song, "Happy Birthday to You"?
answer - Good Morning to All
Many of you know or have discovered that I have a passion for blue painter’s tape. I think blue tape rules in the woodshop. Here’s a bit of history.
In the 1920s Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing (known today as 3M) hired Richard Drew to travel around promoting the company products to automobile shops. The product he was pushing was sandpaper. Drew noticed that many of the shops struggled with different tapes. The sticky tapes of the day would not hold enough or would hold so much that paint was removed when the tape was peeled off the cars.
|the lead off batter|
I checked the logo on the iron to try and date the plane. The logo on the iron matched up to the one for '1935 to the present'. But that is the iron and not necessarily indicative of the age of the block plane itself.
|the top right is low|
|after the 80 grit runway|
|I didn't see this until I had sanded the side|
|sharpened the bevel again|
|shiny brass to makes my day|
In the past I let it soak in Bar Keeps with some water for a while. This time I dumped some powder on a piece of paper and grabbed some water and a clean toothbrush. I dipped the toothbrush in the water to wet it, picked up some powder and scrubbed the knob. It seemed to work better and quicker than letting it soak which never seemed to self clean. With that method I still had to scrub the brass to clean it.
|box is almost done|
|put 3 coats here|
|didn't effect the fit of the lid|
|I think it looks better|
It will be hidden most of the time because of the lid being on but once you remove it, you'll see this.
|you can file these irons|
|the fit is a lot better|
|played with these a little too|
|the frog on the #6 I just got|
|nothing on the back of the lateral adjust|
|just STANLEY on the front|
|my lateral adjust|
My daughter was leaving today to go back to North Carolina but the plane had issues (leaking water into the cabin) so she came back here. She is supposed to leave tomorrow at the same time. I took this opportunity to stop working and go up upstairs to play with Miles before he took his nap.
What is the size of a standard pillow?
answer - 20 x26 inches
I was in the process of building another shelving unit for my wife’s new booth in Milford, Ohio. She originally asked me to build it four feet long. However, once I started to attach the shelves to the unit, she wasn’t too thrilled with the overall dimensions. I asked if she wanted it cut down to 36″ long instead of 48″, but she was afraid that it would be too much work. I assured her that I could cut it down without much problem.
I slapped the unit on top of my workbench and carefully measured where the rails were to be cut. I then grabbed my Festool plunge saw and rail system, clamped it to the lines and ran down the rail cutting as deep the blade would go.
I then flipped the unit off the bench and cut the two attached shelves in half.
After one side was free, I unscrewed the pocket holes and broke away the rails with a hammer. I then cleaned the side up with a random orbital sander.
I then flipped the other side of the unit back onto the bench and re-drilled the pocket holes to the shortened rails. For the two shelves that already had plywood nailed in place, I had to bust out the plywood with a hammer.
After about twenty minutes, the shelving unit came back together a foot shorter. I cut the remaining plywood to the new measurements and installed them using cleats on the inside of the rails.
Now it was time for the antique shutters to be screwed onto the sides.
After a coat of black paint, the shelving unit looks really nice in her new booth.
|low angle 60 1/2|
|it has most of it's japanning|
|the inner parts of the plane look good too|
|the lid fits|
|lid flipped 180|
|how I got the fit|
|I could repeat it with the lid cocked on the opposite side|
|started with sanding|
|switched to the bullnose plane|
|planed the outside|
|see the dark line?|
|the LN 102 was too big|
|a light sanding and it was done|
|left the lid as is|
|I'm calling this done|
|the iron bevel isn't 25°|
|forgot to do the back first|
|the sole is pretty flat|
|this side looks to be flat|
Who became vice president after vice president Andrew Johnson became president when Lincoln was assassinated?
answer - no one
I came across David Thomas Brown’s coffee table build on Reddit last week and thought it was a great build. If you spot a build that has great photography and solid technique, send me an email! – David Lyell I remember the glory days of unlimited garage/driveway space and access to my dad’s tools that I had as a kid in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Scrap wood in the backyard became […]
The post Rising Coffee Table Built in a 500 sq ft NYC Apartment appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
The long-awaited Anne of All Trades YouTube channel is finally here! Subscribe and learn right alongside Anne as she tackles all kinds of projects in the woodshop and around the farm. Check it out at https://www.youtube.com/user/allaboutanne18
It’s getting to be that time of year. Halloween is in just a couple weeks and before you know it the shelves will be stocked with holiday stuff – heck, some stores already are. The weather’s turning cool and its the perfect time to get in the shop and make gifts for your friends and family. With the holidays in mind, I thought it would be nice to focus the […]
The post Book Giveaway: Woodworking Projects for the Kitchen appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
|Miles's new plane|
|my #6, type 4/5, at the forefront|
|why I had passed on it the first time|
|road test with a new iron|
|almost 20 years old|
|the two rabbets|
|rabbet on the inside of the lid|
|the other rabbet is on the outside|
|back to new box|
I had planned on gluing the banding into the lid rather then the bottom. Changed my mind after I got a comment from Sylvain that it might interfere with the rubber bands being in the bottom. Makes sense as the lid would be going into the inside of the bottom rather outside it and hitting rubber bands. I think he saved me a bit of potential frustration and it possibly going airborne.
|glued until tomorrow|
|checking the lid is twist free|
|miters look good|
|got my one complete shaving|
|my 5/8" match planes|
|it's not the tongue iron|
|the groove plane is very well made|
|used 1/2" stock|
|the tongue is off center which it should be|
|iron is set too deep|
|the groove is too wide|
|much better groove shaving|
|pencil line is the depth of the groove|
|my other 3/4" match planes|
|ugly looking T&G|
|out of square|
|the tongue looks good so I'll work on the groove iron|
|stripped down the #6|
A Biblical cubit is 18 inches. How long is a Roman cubit?
answer - 17.5 inches