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|drilled a practice one first|
|fits the fence rods|
|clamped it to the doo-dad|
|everything fits with room to spare|
|I had to thin the holder for the plane|
|the doo-dads aren't quite done|
|using the good stuff|
|sized the ends|
|metric drill caddy box|
|it's almost 1700|
What was the only state (colony) not invaded by the British during the Revolutionary War?
answer - New Hampshire
I recently spent a great day with our friend Marie Pelletier up in Newbury, Massachusetts at the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, aka Plum Island. She got great shots of many of the birds we saw… maybe this will take you to her shots – https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10213122359110858&set=pcb.10213122371511168&type=3&theater
It was not the best light for me, my camera shoots kinda dark. But here’s some of what I got that day:
Egrets were the bird of the day; both snowy (Egretta thula) and great (Ardea alba) – here’s one of the great egrets:
a bunch of the snowies:
They weren’t the only long-legged waders around though – we saw Great Blue Herons now and then (Ardea herodias)
A juvenile Northern Harrier – (Circus cyaneus )
The swallows were really the most impressive sight. Their numbers were out of this world. They’re “staging” – stopping here to feed and gather in huge flocks for migration. Many (most/all?) of these are tree swallows (Tachycineta bicolor) – there’s no way this photo or any photo captures the impact of seeing this many birds. they were in constant motion, and the sound of them hitting the water to feed on insects was LOUD.
I never skip a chance to watch cedar waxwings (Bombycilla cedrorum) this one was very cooperative
A couple of days later, at Pret & Paula’s house, an eastern screech owl (Megascops asio). Too distant for my camera, but such a treat to see it poking out of this dead tree:
Then this morning, the flock of common grackles (Quiscalus quiscula) with some other blackbirds mixed in, come streaming up from the marsh just around sunrise:
Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideas. Please share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip. If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.
I suppose you could say I have two sanding centers. One holds the oscillating spindle sander and, because it has drawers, stores all of the disks for various Festool Sanders, too. It may be too fancy for some folks’ taste, being made from “real wood.”
Mechanization is fine, as far as it goes. Sometimes, though, a job calls for hand sanding. Because we don’t want to be walking back and forth to our sandpaper supply, I made a sandpaper tote.
Our dear friends at the local Mexican restaurant saved some big steel cans for us. I spent about a million dollars (sorry, Steve) on Rust-OLeum rusty metal primer and Rust-OLeum flat black to coat the cans well before putting them to use. After all, they were going to be holding abrasives.
I attached the cans to a scrap piece of treated pine, and used the handle from an old Stihl string trimmer to complete the tote.
In the cans I put 1/3-sheet sanding blocks, scraps of sandpaper in Ziploc bags and a variety of other items that are used in sanding. Each can has a grit number assigned, with the appropriate Ziploc of scraps and a sanding block with that grit installed. The scraps all have their grit marked.
Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.
The post Making a Handy Sandpaper Tote – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – September 2017 – Tip #1 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
|another first for me|
|enough walnut for a hundred boxes|
|back is done|
|1645 and I'm finishing up the last plug|
|the plane body measures the same|
|slot for the fence|
|the planned spot for the fence|
I measured the rods and they are 5/16" diameter. Again I was expecting metric but I'm happy with the imperial. Tomorrow I'll make a drilling guide for the rods and make some practice holes before I drill the holes in the box doo-dad.
What is the longest running scripted TV show in the US?
answer - The Simpsons at 29 seasons (Gunsmoke and Law & Order both had 20 yrs)
The auction from the last post was not a great auction, there were no wonderous pieces of furniture. Many nice ones but nothing that jumped out and screamed “Take me to the Met.”
In the absence of greatness, I look for interesting details. Things done differently or things not typically done. I always wonder if these different approaches are naive or brilliant. Did they not know how things were done or not care how others did it. No clue or different inspiration
There were a few items that had a unique approach to curves. First up is this:
Chippendale Style Dressing Table
Description: 19th century, oak, shaped dish top, single serpentine drawer, cabriole legs with ball and claw feet.
Size: 29 x 30 x 18 in.
Condition: Restoration including the drawer being reworked, later glue blocks, break and repair to back right leg; insect damage; surface stains.
To start things off, the ball and claw feet are a bit different:
The drawer has been reworked?
The serpentine drawer front caught my eye:
A sawn serpentine drawer front is not unique. What is unique is how thin the drawer front gets:
I do like the bail pulls:
Next specimen is quite a bit taller:
William IV Mahogany Bookcase
Description:` 19th century, two-part form, mahogany, mahogany veneer, oak and pine secondary, applied cove molded cornice, two hinged glazed doors with original wavy glass open to two louvered shelves, over an ogee drawer, two paneled doors with flush base.
Size 94 x 43 x 18 in
Condition: No key; surface wear; top surface to base with looseness.
The only curved thing on it is the, as they call it, ogee drawer. Looking at is in profile you see:
It looks like it started life as a squared drawer to which bits have been added and removed:
Staring at it for a while, I think I might have figured out how they did it. It started out as a drawer with a square profile. The baseline looks like it was made by a marking gauge which would require a flat front. Moldings and fillets were attached and the drawer front was then given the ogee profile. The through dovetails were hidden behind a thick veneer on the concave surface.
The third curve is the first kidney-shaped server I’ve ever seen.
English Regency Concave Mahogany Server
Description: 19th century, mahogany, oak secondary, top with applied gallery, two drawers over two tambour doors, shelved interior, on flush base.
Size: 39 x 50 x 22 in.
Condition: Right tambour door with loose panels; surface scratches; shrinkage crack to top; other wear.
The tambour doors were a bit stiff. Now knowing how the non-existent Pottery Barn Rule (You break it, you bought it) applies at an auction, I wimped out and chose to use their picture to show it closed:
The joinery might be a bit coarse but it has lasted for 200 years:
Interesting way that the lower shelf boards installed on a bias:
As a professional teacher, I own a lot of dress slacks. Until recently, I had them hanging on a variety of different hangers, most of which sagged and left unsightly wrinkles on each leg. There are a lot of effective ways to hang up a pair of slacks without wrinkling them, but most good hangers are expensive and hog valuable space on the rack. My new pants hangers each cost approximately 75 cents took under five minutes to make.
Making them requires only a few simple woodworking tools and almost no skill. Here’s how I did it.
I began with some old wire hangers that came from the dry cleaner. Such hangers are easy to find. These are have a cardboard tube that each end of the wire sticks into.
I had most of my slacks hanging on hangers like these. They worked for a while, until the cardboard began to sag and finally break in the middle.
I had a lot of them.
You could use regular wire coat hangers for this project just as easily, but I had these ready to hand.
The first step is to use wire cutters to snip off the lower wire close to each end. I cut the wire about 3/4″ from each end, but the exact length isn’t critical.
I also clipped the wire at an angle so as to leave a sharp point. That will be very helpful later when it comes time to assemble these. Be careful, though, as cut wire IS very sharp.
The next step is to cut the new wooden rod to length. I used 1/2″ diameter poplar dowels from the home center. They’re often labeled “hardwood dowels,” and the wood often has a slightly green color. They should run you less than $2 apiece. I got mine for $1.69 each.
At the store, take some time selecting the straightest dowels you can find. To test straightness, just sight down the length of each dowel rod. If they look straight, they are straight enough. But if you don’t trust your eye, roll them on the floor. A bent dowel will wobble a lot. A straight one will roll pretty evenly.
Cut your dowels to 16 inches long. If you bought 48-inch dowels, you can get exactly three hangers out of each dowel with no waste! I cut them with a small hand saw and a bench hook–that’s the handy holding device pictured above. (See the end of this post for more details on making a bench hook.)
Next, drill a small hole into each end of the dowel. You can eyeball the approximate center. Go as straight as you can, but don’t sweat a crooked or off-center hole. The hanger will work fine even if your drilling is off a little bit.
I like to stand my stock up in a bench vise, but if you don’t have a vise, you can brace one end of the dowel on something solid, hold the dowel in your hand, and carefully drill the end. I braced mine onto my bench hook, and it worked great. Just don’t slip!
Poplar is a fairly soft wood, so use a smaller diameter drill bit than your hanger wire. I used a 1/16″ bit, but you could go one size bigger without trouble. The exact depth of the hole is not crucial. I just drilled to the depth of the drill bit’s flutes.
The dowels come from the store sanded smooth–which is great if you want them like that. However, I don’t like my slacks slipping off the hanger and onto the floor at the slightest touch–as they will if the rod is too slick. So I used a piece of 80-grit sandpaper to roughen the rods a little. I just swiped the sandpaper down the length of the rod once, turned it slightly, and did it again, until the whole rod was just a little coarse. Just remember to clean off any sawdust before you hang your slacks on these things.
While you’ve got the sandpaper in your hand, also sand off any ragged fibers that the saw left at each end.
Now it’s time to assemble your new hanger. With your fingers, press each cut end of the wire into the holes in each end of the dowel rod as far as you can.
If you feel they haven’t gone in far enough, a few taps on each end with a hammer will seat the wire firmly. If the wire doesn’t seem secure, you can always add a dab of strong glue, such as E6000 glue or even hot glue, to each hole. But that probably won’t be necessary.
And that’s all there is to it! Hang up your slacks on your new hanger.
I didn’t use any kind of stain or finish on the wood because (a) I didn’t want to wait for a finish to cure, and (b) I don’t want any smelly or sticky stuff on my clothes. These are going in my closet anyway, and I really don’t care what color they are.
I made up a dozen of these in under an hour. It’s probably the easiest woodworking project I’ve done in years–and I’ll use the hangers I made for years to come.
Bonus: The Bench Hook
I use my bench hook all the time. I actually have two of them, and for cutting up long stock it’s nice to have a pair. But for small stock, one works just fine all by itself.
A bench hook is simple to make, and almost as simple to use. Each one consists of three pieces of wood. The base is a wide-ish board 3/4″ thick. Mine is about 8″ wide and 12″ long, but exact dimensions aren’t critical. You could easily build this with smaller pieces–whatever you have on hand.
The other two pieces are they cleats. They are narrower bits of wood, almost as long as the base. They can be screwed, nailed, or glued to the base, as you see above. Mine are glued on. If you’re right-handed, the smaller piece should go almost to the right-hand end of the base but not quite. Leave between 1″ and 1/2″ of the base protruding past the cleats.
To use the bench hook, the lower cleat hooks over the top of a workbench or table. You hold your stock against the upper cleat with your off-hand, and you saw with your dominant hand. I have two sawing spots in this bench hook–one on the end and the other in the middle. The one in the middle is best for very small pieces that need to be supported on both sides of the saw. I use the spot on the end for everything else.
When one side of the bench hook gets too chewed up to use–which will take quite a long time–you can flip the whole bench hook over and use the other side. This essentially doubles the working life if the jig.
The saw I’m using is a cheap dovetail saw made by crown, which I think retails for about $25. But any normal, sharp saw with relatively small teeth can be used effectively on a bench hook. With practice, you can hold a workpiece firmly and saw a clean, straight line with ease–no clamping required.
If you do much craft work at all, I highly recommend investing the fifteen minutes it will take you to make one or two bench hooks.
In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking as the Labor Day Weekend holiday approaches and we plan time with our families, I decided to revisit an “Around the Shop” podcast that discussed backboards. It’s solid woodworking information with an eye toward historically accurate work.
Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.
|both have cathedral grain I will use|
|sawn to rough length but not the width|
|I want to center the width on the point of the cathedral between the sides of the box|
|the haste, waste, and mistake part|
|repeated the cathedral thing with the second lid|
|labeled the front so I won't get it mixed up(on both faces)|
|left the front long|
|planing the rabbets|
|a teeny bit of a slope on the entry end|
|none on the exit end|
|pretty even on the gauge line too|
|I'll plane to this gauge line after I fit the rabbets|
|about 80% on the second try|
|right front - loose on the side and at the top|
|left front - loose on the side and tight at the top|
|the back right|
|the left side is a close repeat of the right|
|I could probably close it but I' wasn't sure that I could open it again|
|finally got it|
|marked the lid and planed it to the line - left it a frog hair proud|
|planing a chamfer on the front end|
|1/2" astragal batted next|
|grain reversed on this end|
|layout for the thumb catch|
|don't know what I want here|
|it's 1700 and quitting time|
What is an anglophone?
answer - someone who speaks english
Over the last year, we have featured a wide variety shops in Wood News. We recently collected a few from the archives, including Scott Wilson’s spacious home shop, Tony Rumball’s shop options (he has access to 3 different woodworking shops!) and more.
Take a look at these workshops for ideas and inspiration, or just for fun.
And to read about even more shops, click to check out our Shops Gallery.
If you would like to submit your shop, just SEND US PHOTOS of your woodworking shop along with captions and a brief history and description of your woodworking. (Email photos at 800 x 600 resolution.) Receive a $50 store credit redeemable towards merchandise if we show your shop in a future issue.
The post Show Us Your Shop: Peek Inside These Woodworkers’ Shops! appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
I just finished carving the 8th & final panel for the bedstead I have underway. There’s 4 patterns I used, each one repeats twice. most of them are patterns I made up, but drawn from a large body of work I have covered here a few times. The carvings that are the inspiration come from Devon, England and Ipswich, Massachusetts. I love these designs because they are so lively, and have so much variety.
Lately I’ve been trying to draw the designs – to try to learn how to talk about them – the parts, components and how they get combined. When I first saw these panels, I thought they must be the most involved carvings – but really they’re just busy…there’s very little background removed. Most of the impact is from the “horror vacuui” effect of covering every blessed surface with something. (This next one was a mistake – the board was 10″ wide, too narrow for the bedstead.)Narrow panel
These patterns have a few common elements/motifs – most have an arch across the top of the panel. there are a few exceptions, but generally I carve the arch-top versions. All of these have an urn/vase/flowerpot just above the bottom/center of the panel. Then some leafy bits/leaves/flowers coming up and spreading out from this urn. I tend to think of the designs being broken into thirds – though not necessarily even thirds.
Some wind up from the urn through the middle of the panel, then wind outward and reverse direction into the arch. Mostly these also bend downward, looping back toward the middle of the panel. In this case, there’s 3 tulip shapes inside this arc, then the big leafy bit that fills the bottom corner:
This pattern is easiest on wide stock, at least 10″ of carving space-width. This one, a chest I have copied a few times, the panel is 12 3/4″ wide x 15″ tall. Compare it to the narrow version above – I think it works better on the wide stock.
On this panel from the bedstead a single flower replaces the 3 tulips, same leaf at the bottom though:
Sometimes from the urn you get large shapes flowing almost horizontally out from the middle. these often have double-volute-ish scrolls where they hit the edges of the panel The one heading down then flows into a leaf shape that bends right against the bottom of the urn. This one is from the extra-wide muntin of the same chest –
Here’s the front of that chest – I copied the proportions and all the vertical bits from 2 examples I’ve seen in person, one other I know from a photograph. All were initialed & dated on the muntin; 1666, 1669 & 1682 for the dates. I substituted different (related) designs on the horizontal rails; and in this case added brackets underneath the bottom rail.
These carving often employ a three-part leaf, which is standard in the related S-scrolls – (seen here on a period box from Ipswich)
and on the panels this form is used again & again, inside spaces, between elements – it can be like this:
Or along the side of the panel:
Hard to see it upside down, here it is from a period piece, the shape I’m thinking of is between the bottom of the arch and blends into the margin just above the large bottom leaves:
The bits flowing up from the urn that then turn down to the bottom corners can take several forms as well. The one I used at the top of this post is simple, big fat leafy shapes bending up then down. They split into three parts at the bottom – one to the corner, one to the feet/urn junction, and one between. Fill the spaces with gouge-cuts, and call it done.
as a drawing:
I could go on forever, but this post has taken long enough. A few more panels of my work:
This one hangs in our kitchen, done in Alaska yellow cedar:
This oak panel was an experiment, I mostly like it, but rejected it for the bedstead:
This one took its place:
A couple weeks ago I ventured into the barbarous climes of Mordor to deliver the workbench to the Library of Congress Book Conservation group. If the traffic and multitude of high-dollar construction projects are any indication, the travails of the provinces are not being felt in the capital city. In fact it looks like a boom town that has four trillion of our dollars at its disposal every year. And since we apparently are not motivated enough to demand that they stop spending those four trillion dollars every year on us, that trend line will remain unchanged.
The logistics of getting into a secured facility (and in Mordor virtually every facility is secured) is a challenge. It turned out that the most efficient way to get the workbench into LC was for me to drop it off at the curb in front, with LC staff taking delivery of it there. Once I parked and rejoined them we were able to get through the security checkpoint and proceed to the conservation lab. Admittedly, I felt under dressed with my Victorinox Spirit muti-tool sitting in the van outside.
The path to the final home for the workbench was uneventful, and the crew there was delighted to get their new tool. Particularly pleased were the petite members of the staff, many of whom wrote me a “Thank You” note for taking their physiques into consideration when fabricating the variable height configuration of the bench.
The bench fit perfectly into the tiny Tool Room space they have, and after I spent a little time explaining its features it was given some tryouts almost immediately.
And then I escaped before the Dark Eye poisoned my heart any more.
|cut the bottom to width on the tablesaw|
|sawed the length by hand and squared it up|
|set my rabbet plane for the width|
|practice groove from yesterday|
|I'm going to sweeten the fit with the tenon plane|
|self supporting on all four sides|
|self supporting with the box too|
|Houston, we had a brain fart somehow|
|get this width right on the money|
|the first one fits on the length|
|sawed and squared the new bottom|
|ran my gauge lines|
|new bottom done|
|a look at the bottom - rabbet is 3/8 wide to minimize how much shows|
|getting ready to glue it up|
|used the ready made stuff|
|had it square|
|has to be square|
|gaps on the dovetails on the interior|
|I can't complain about this fit|
|the difference in 6 years|
What is a hesperidium?
answer - the fruit of a citrus tree (lemon,oranges,limes....)
In the August 2017 issue of The Highland Woodturner, Curtis addresses a regular topic of discussion among his woodturning students: What kind of finish should they use?
As a new woodturner, I gravitated to products marketed to turners. These were generally shellac and wax based products blended with other chemicals to aid with application and drying. These were very easy to apply with almost instant results. The sheen or polish was dazzling to my eye. I soon learned these were not the best finishes for everything.
Click to read more of Curtis’s thoughts on finishing options for woodturners.
The newest PopWood arrived int he mail recently and it contains my latest article for them. If the topic interests you, I hope you will join me at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking where my workshop on parquetry will revolve around making and using these jigs.
I still have that box and every so often I take it out to look at and compare it to my latest one. I did that tonight. The joints on my first one look like the ones I did tonight. My confidence in myself to whack out a set of dovetails is way higher than then. I saw faster without hesitating and I chop the pin/tail waste out almost nonchalantly now. I'm comfortable doing dovetails whether they are through or half blinds. I still get that feeling now everytime I put a box together off the saw.
|prepping my chisels|
|quick check on the contents fitting|
|one block doing triple duty|
|this is getting better too|
|3 flush and 1 shy on the bottom|
|there was a tiny bit of twist|
|set my distance from the edge and the depth|
|plowed my grooves|
|length for the bottom stick|
|repeat for the short dimension|
What is the country once known as Burma now called?
answer - Myanmar
As we run-up this week to nuptials for Younger Daughter we were blessed with a visit from her last weekend. Much of the time she spent with Mrs. Barn doing wedding-y stuff, but she spent a few hours in the shop with me turning a bowl. The wood for this bowl came from a plum tree in the Maryland house yard that died of natural causes some years ago (she remembers climbing the tree as a tyke), and I harvested the wood and set it aside for something special. This definitely fits the description.
I had in recent months found the faceplate for the lathe and ordered a threaded insert from Woodcraft so it could be put to work. Before she arrived I mounted the piece on the faceplate and roughed it round (she is not yet experienced enough to bring a really rough piece to round comfortably). The lathe is a bit high for her, so in the early stages she was most comfortable with the scraper tucked in the armpit. I will be building a lower base in the coming weeks.
I gave her only a few pointers as she developed the outer shape she wanted.
Before long she had the outer surface defined and embarked on an initial sanding and polishing.
With the base established and the shape determined it was time to remove the faceplate in favor of the small bowl chuck and get started excavating the interior.
Soon she was in pretty deep.
We stopped for the night, but on returning the next day she refined the shape and surface.
To be sure the watchful papa bear was never far from the action. The working height was just plain awkward for her but she hung in there without complaint.
After the final shaping she moved to sanding and then polishing with beeswax melted into the surface, buffed with a linen rag while turning. She particularly liked my method of placing a dry sponge between the hand and the sandpaper, it allows greater vigor with less heat.
And here it is, an heirloom with a priceless memory attached. In all likelihood it was our final private time together with her as Miss Barndaughter until those moments just before I walk her down the aisle, and it was a precious treasure.
Doggone, something must’ve flown into my eye…
|trying a bigger starter hole|
|only got about an extra 1/8" with just my fingers|
|went up to the next sized hole|
|roughly half way but still not deep enough for finger work|
|the 1/4-20 wins|
|this is still a good tap|
|gaps to fill|
|sawing out a filler piece|
|flushed the plywood panels to the bottom|
|sized the filler side to side|
|set the marking gauge off the pencil line on the block of wood|
|ran my gauge line and I'm going to try and split off the waste|
|it worked much better that I expected it|
|planed it down to the gauge lines|
|it fits but it is too snug|
|planed a bit more and glued it in place|
|slight round over on the top|
|finished it with some 100 grit sandpaper|
|much nicer feeling now|
|layout for the 1/4-20 and drilled a pilot hole through both|
|two different sized holes drilled next|
|will they line up?|
|yes they did|
|this is going to work good for this|
|a coat of poly|
|new shelf for the finishing cabinet|
|neither end is square|
|squared up the ends|
|new shelf done|
|sanded and planed the aris off|
|lost the measurements for the box - height redone|
|double check on the width|
|height laid out|
|waste sawn off|
|4 box parts sawn|
|ran into a hiccup|
I ran all the box parts through the tablesaw to get them parallel. I was then able to square the ends and have them all match up and be flush with each other.
|got my continuous grain flow around the box|
|my first one|
|used it to check where the tails and pins go|
|prepping my chisels for the dovetailing|
What is boustrophedon?
answer - writing in alternate directions one line to the next (ie one line R to L and the next L to R)
With the foundation laid for good finishing it was time to move on to undulating surfaces, the kind of finishing that gives many woodworkers fits and nightmares. Fortunately it is no more complicated or straightforward than finishing plain flat surfaces. It’s all about surface prep, varnish prep, and tool selection.
Switching to the “carver’s model” polissoir the surfaces were burnished in preparation for varnishing.
Then, on to applying the varnish. The true key to success is the right brush, a fine bristle watercolor “Filbert” with a rounded tip.
The Filbert allows for tremendously good “drape” of the bristles around the surface, not sqeegeing off varnish with the resulting runs like you might get with a square tip brush.
A few applications of the shellac varnish to these surfaces and they were ready to set aside, to be burnished with steel wool and waxed later on.
Next we revisited the luan panels we had started the day before, undertaking a light scraping with disposable razor blades followed by a brief but vigorous rubbing with 0000 steel wool. I have found scraping to be not only historically accurate (obviously not with modern disposable razor blades, but the concept and practice are still the same) but now to be an integral component in my finishing process.
Then another inning of shellac application, followed at the end of the day by the third and final inning. By then the surface was beginning to get some sparkle.
One last exercise was to finish a raised panel door. I do not recall where these came from but they have served me well in this regard for many moons. Again, a few applications of shellac followed by rubbing out with steel wool and paste wax yielded a luxuriant surface.
The large panels were rubbed out the third morning with steel wool and wax, and buffed with soft cloth. The result was, as one participant said, “The best looking piece of luan ever!”
By mid-day on Sunday the party started breaking up, but the students left with a new confidence and a sharpened set of skills. Folks may be reluctant to come to The Barn on White Run because of its remote location, but once here they always love it and go home with more knowledge and skill than they arrived with. That’s not a bad outcome.