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General Woodworking

Desk Prototype – II

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 01/31/2018 - 5:20am

With the legs in-hand it was time to build the writing box that went on top of them.  Again using mostly southern yellow pine from my pile I set to work.  It was straightforward but had to fit the legs precisely.  I dispensed with making the bow-front drawer for the box as it would be predetermined by the box itself.

To get practice for the re-sawing that would come soon in prized vintage mahogany I did that with this tulip poplar stock.

The joinery for the box was mundane but a necessary exercise.

I established the curve of the drawer frame and the top with drawknife and spokeshave.

And put it together.  The writing surface was simply tacked in place with finishing nails as I would need to remove it to check the internals once the real project was underway.  On that version the top would be glued in place with glue blocks.

Up next: joining the legs, box and shelf to finish the prototype.

Ash splint basket making film – My father’s tools

Steve Tomlin Crafts - Wed, 01/31/2018 - 4:37am
A beautiful short film about ash splint basket making. Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Safety Last

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 01/31/2018 - 4:00am

I'm old enough to remember when people didn't routinely buckle up when they got into cars. Years of laws, enforcement of laws, knowing people who were maimed or killed in car crashes and probably millions of dollars of advertising later, most people I know wear seat belts every time they get into a car. We wear seat belts and accept that that the chance of an accident might be small but it isn't zero. We know that the seat belts will offer a lot of protection relative to the inconvenience of using them. We generally don't think, "Hmmm, I'm drunk so I had better buckle up" or "Taylor just passed his road test so guess I'll wear the seat belt" or "Only in bad weather" or "Only with my parents/kids in the back seat" or "Only on New Year's Eve." The practice most people have is protecting themselves every time.

So why is it in a workshop - especially a home shop - do so many people only put on safety glasses only before a potentially hazardous operation, not wear them all the time?

It's true that when working with hand tools there is less chance of kickback from a saw, but there are plenty of other hazards - sawdust in the air, sharp edges, splinters, etc. - all of which can fly into your eye when you least expect it.

Here is what I insist upon with all my students and strongly recommend to all woodworkers: when you enter the workshop, get into the habit of putting on safety glasses right way. Any kind would work as long as they are comfortable enough so that you actually wear them. Get into the habit. You will be glad you did.

In the picture above we have four forms of eye protection. The ones in the lower right with the black frames are prescription safety classes. You get them from an optician. I like them because up until recently we didn't have any glasses that worked with googles (see below), and by using these glasses I save wear and tear on my regular glasses.

I also have an oversize pair of glasses OTS XL that fit over my regular glasses, seen here over my glasses on the upper right mannequin head. For people who truly need their glasses, this is a godsend. These are the only style of safety glasses that I have seen that really work well over a pair of eyeglasses. Highly recommended.

If you don't wear prescription glasses, you have a range of options that are comfortable and inexpensive. The pair with the black nose piece (lower left) fits almost all faces. You can also get safety glasses for kids and adults with small faces. We know adult woodworkers who have complained that nothing fits them -- until they tried the glasses worn by the picture's upper left mannequin. This is great for instilling good work habits if you kids hang out in the workshop with you (and we hope they do), and for giving small adults the routine protection others take for granted. Click here for more info.

The Capstone shield is great when you need more protection and don't want to swallow wood chips being thrown at you. Great for yard work too. The Shield opens and closes

With the exception of prescription glasses, safety glasses are also remarkably inexpensive, as a matter of fact if you click on the links and want to order one pair of glasses the shipping will be more than the glasses - so you might just want to add a pair to your next order and save shipping.

The title of this blog post comes from Harold Llyod's great film. The scene below is amazing - even with camera magic. Lloyd did his own stunt work, which is remarkable especially considering that his right hand was missing fingers due to an accident several years earlier. In the film he is wearing a glove designed by Hal Roach and movie mogul Samuel Goldwyn, a former glove salesman.

snow et al things.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 01/31/2018 - 12:27am
The weather seers were predicting 0-1 inch of snow falling overnight into the morning commute and stopping around noon. They were wrong on both counts. About 2-3 inches fell and it stopped around 0900. The drive into work was an adventure because almost nothing was plowed. All the side streets to Rte 10 were a complete mess and Rte 10 only had one lane clear. Not a problem because once I got on it, I was all alone all the way to work.

Had another problem that came up yesterday. My father-in-law slipped and fell in his kitchen and broke a vertebrae. He went to the ER(?) where an x-ray showed the break and he was sent home. I don't know anymore than that about it. Today he can't get out of bed so my wife is going there to have medicare get a home health aide to come in to help with his daily needs.

Normally my wife's sister, who lives down the street from her parents, would be doing it. But she has the flu and can't be around them. So my wife is leaving tomorrow to get the paperwork started but I think she is in for a surprise because she has never dealt with something like this before.

changed lanes on the 10 1/2
It is illuminating to look at this plane that I already rehabbed and compare it to what I am doing now.  I can see a few differences and this paint job is first. I was surprised by some things I did on this plane that I left as being done as being good also. It seems as my rehab experience has increased, my skill set it doing individual items in the rehab have increased too.

I do like shiny
I don't think that I spray painted too many planes. Maybe 2 or 3 at the most. I like the look of this enamel paint applied by hand. I am going to repaint the 10 1/2 and I won't be doing the wax on and off dance steps.

I think I can get away with one coat
The 5 1/2 should be ready to be put back together tomorrow. The 10 1/2 may take another day as I found a couple of things that needed attention. The frog had to be touched up with paint in few areas. I don't remember painting it back then, It may need a second coat tomorrow. I also will have to sand the frog face because it looks like I never did it.

typical Harbor Freight crappola
The manual says that this can not be stalled. That is total BS. I can not only stall it, I can stop it dead with very little effort. I slowed it down to nothing applying the brown rouge and did the same buffing a lever cap. As long as I keep this in mind, this will work. I don't anticipate this getting a lot of long term work anyway.

10 1/2 lever cap
I sanded it with 120 and then buffed it with the brown rouge. This is the level of shine that I got.

sanded with 220
I got a better shine with the sandpaper than I did with the buffer. Maybe this is a metal that doesn't like to be worked on a buffer.  I will continue my shining efforts with sandpaper and I'll go up to 400 and call it done with that.

casting pits on this flat
got a bigger one on the opposite flat
I won't be able to sand and feather these out. I'll sand and shine them the best I can and I'll have to live with it.

another comparison
10 1/2 tote and knob compared to my just finished 5 1/2 tote and knob. The 10 1/2 is a light colored rosewood which I like. I will spray a couple of coats of shellac on it and see how it compares then.

Another short night in the shop but I have to help my wife get ready for going to upstate New York tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the standard width of a bowling alley is 41 1/2 inches plus or minus a 1/2 inch, excluding the gutters?

What’s in a Name?

The Furniture Record - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 10:01pm
mule chestnoun                                                              (from various sources) 
low chest with drawers, mounted on a low frame.
A hybrid form of chest, intermediate between a simple chest and a chest of drawers
A chest commonly wider than it is high and deep. A mule chest has drawers in its base and a hinged top, beneath which there are either two short drawers or one long one.
1 – Although strictly speaking a horse/donkey hybrid, the term ‘mule’ is commonly used to designate many hybrids. The term mule chest arose because it is a hybrid with a combination of drawers and a top-flap compartment.
2 – This design of chest was used by peddlers to transport their goods on a mule. The chests were often used in pairs, one on each side of the mule, and the drawers were used for smaller items, while the trunks held cloth and larger items. The peddler could easily gain access to goods in the drawers without unloading the mule, and could thus accost potential customers even when on the move.
There are as many types of mule chests as there are definitions/explanations. Take these two examples from a recent auction.
First, the fancy:

George III Oak Mule Chest


This lot has sold for $420.

Description: Late 18th century, two-part form, top with hinged lid and applied molded edge, interior with two drawers and secret compartment, upper cabinet with two lipped drawers, lower chest with two cock beaded drawers, on straight bracket feet.

Size: 45 x 44 x 22 in.

Condition: Shrinkage cracks and staining to lid; no key; missing locks; later pulls; shrinkage crack to right side of lower case and small chip near waist drawer.

Kinda a mule chest on chest with bracket feet. The upper three drawers are just applied molding and pulls:


Inside, space, not drawers. There are drawers in the till, but they don’t count.

The drawers in the till were a bit stiff so I did not pursue the search for the hidden compartment as aggressively as I might have.


The drawers are dovetailed so it is truly a quality piece.

Then, there is the primitve nailed version:

New England Painted Mule Chest


This lot has sold for $250.

Description19th century, white pine, red wash, remnants of old blue paint to molded lid, two lipped drawers, raised on bootjack feet.

Size: 37 x 37 x 18.5 in.

Condition: Later red wash; top missing hinges; later foot facing to front.

I would show you the inside but there are no hinges and the lid kept falling off. No till. I can show you this ingenious repair of a sort:


Rodent damage a notch for a power cord? You decide.

And the back:


37″ covered by two boards. And the patch.

Notice, as I have pointed out before, the back is unpainted. They really didn’t care what the wall saw. Of course, it could have been dipped, stripped and repainted.


The pulls seem original but I’m no expert.


And, of course, the drawers are dovetailed.

Colonial Williamsburg Working Wood conference

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 8:50am

I got home yesterday from my trip to Colonial Williamsburg’s Working Wood in the 18th Century conference. Or was it a symposium? This was the 20th year, quite an accomplishment. I had previously attended in 2007; I was especially pleased to be back. Lots of old friends, lots of familiar faces both on stage and in the audience. I took a few lousy photos, but found many on the facebook site from https://www.facebook.com/CWhistorictrades/ – so I “borrowed” many from them. Go to the link to see their whole pile of photos; they got good ones.

First thing I noticed upon loading my gear into the auditorium was that I had left my green wood billets at home. If there is anyplace you can go & expect to get green wood upon asking, Williamsburg is it. One of the carpenters’ crew found me some white oak that was so good that it needed no hewing when I split it. So I showed the camera just how flat the good stuff is when it splits:



The Williamsburg woodworking crowd; Kaare Loftheim, Bill Pavlak, Ted Boscana, Garland Wood, and my old cohort Brian Weldy all had presentations. Here’s Brian & Bill during the tool chest presentation…

And Kaare Loftheim showing the saw till under the lid of a tool chest the crew worked on several years back:

Ted Boscana and his crew of apprentices went through the steps to make some architectural moldings, including some crown/cornice molding. I didn’t get a shot of it, but there was a great demo of the apprentices pulling Ted through the air as he provided the weight to push down on the plane.

Ken Schwartz, the master blacksmith, led a presentation showing through slides and video how a drawknife and axe were made, then he had members of the coopers’ and wheelwrights’ shops briefly show the tools in use. Here’s a shot showing the axe “bit” and the eye/head:

For me, one great highlight was seeing W. Patrick Edwards’ presentation on Sunday morning.

His introductory story about an abrupt change of career early on in his life made me grin from ear to ear. If you get a chance to see Patrick as a presenter, jump. http://wpatrickedwards.blogspot.com/2017/09/the-risk-of-living-as-process-of-life.html

Don Williams de-mystified finishing on Sunday – (yes, it finished with finishing) – Don made it so accessible that I wanted to try some, instead of my usual cop-out linseed oil. http://donsbarn.com/the-barn/  His demonstration of the winding sticks-with-feet was especially good.


Jane Rees is often a fixture at the Williamsburg conference,and it was great to catch up with her again. So many historic tool questions were diverted from the audience to the stage, then down to the front row with “I don’t know, let’s ask Jane”  http://www.reestools.co.uk/books/

Jane understood when she heard I ducked out for half a day to go see eagles on the James River.

and then there was Roy Underhill. Do I have to say anything? Keynote speaker, moderator of a discussion panel, all around helpful schlepping on & off stage, native guide around CW; and poker-of-sacred-cows. When Roy is around, I stick close, because something worth seeing is going to happen.

My presentation was sponsored by EAIA; other sponsors were SAPFM and Fine Woodworking. My thanks to them for helping make it happen.

On any of my southerly trips, I try to get over to see my greatest friends; Heather Neill and her wife Pat. It’s always too much fun in too short a time when we visit. Here’s a sampling of Heather’s work, both painting & writing:  http://heatherneill.com/studio-blog/2017/07/18/in-my-element/ 

Her Instragram is here https://www.instagram.com/hnartisan/

I woke up to this idyllic sight today. Won’t make it to working in the shop today…but tomorrow I will.

How to Build an Inexpensive Steam Box for Bending Wood

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 8:42am

Have you ever considered bending wood for a woodworking project? The technique can really add interest to a piece, and is easier than you might think! Click below to find an article and a video on building an inexpensive steam box for bending wood as well as some tips for how to use the steam box.

Click here to learn more about how to bend wood

The post How to Build an Inexpensive Steam Box for Bending Wood appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Barn Workshop – Make A Petite Dovetail Saw

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 6:03am

In recent years my projects and inclinations have guided me towards more diminutive work in thinner stock.  This makes cutting dovetails somewhat of a challenge when using a standard saw, which is often too aggressive and thus harder to control effortlessly.  As a result of that I began exploring the prospect of fabricating my own petite dovetail saw.  I wound up making several with good-to-excellent results.  We will replicate that process and send you home with your own.

If you have a particular piece of wood to use for the handle (tote) feel free to bring it to work with.  Otherwise I will provide all the materials for this workshop.  We’ll aim to fold and finish the back, taper and insert the plate/blade, fit and fashion the handle to your hand, and file the teeth.

The tool list for the workshop is a short one and will be sent to attendees well before the event.


The complete 2018 Barn workshop schedule:

Historic Finishing  April 26-28, $375

Making A Petite Dovetail Saw June 8-10, $400

Boullework Marquetry  July 13-15, $375

Knotwork Banding Inlay  August 10-12, $375

Build A Classic Workbench  September 3-7, $950

Precision Instruments for Woodworkers — Part One: Standardization

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 5:23am

Tools for measuring. Tools for Accuracy. ACCURACY IS IMPORTANT PART OF WOODWORKING I’ve been working as a furniture maker for quite a while, now. Along the way, you refine your processes, develop techniques and create a lot of habits over time. Certainly, an important part of working professionally is to work efficiently —you learn very quickly that time is a fixed asset. You also learn that you have to work […]

The post Precision Instruments for Woodworkers — Part One: Standardization appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

feeling like crap......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 01/30/2018 - 12:27am
I started to get a headache round about noon-ish today. It is one of those annoying ones that hovers on the periphery deciding what it wants to be when it grows up. It would throb a little for a while and then fade away. Off and on all afternoon and when I got home it settled behind my eyes. It almost kept me out of the shop and it did shorten the to do list significantly.

left over 044 parts
I picked out the best ones and put them on the plow I'm giving to Miles.

I had buffed the nickel plating on the fence and the top of the plane yesterday. I didn't make me say wow.  It was more of a humph. The rods I wiped down with 4-0 steel wool and the nickel on the screws and such I'm leaving as is. I don't think I would raise any appreciable shine with the rouge I have. I will make a pit stop at Harbor Freight this weekend and get some rouge and a new buffing wheel.

had to do some rearranging
My submarine training paid off again. I haven't lost my touch with putting 20 pounds of crap into a 5 pound test bag. I don't have any more toolboxes or planes to put in here so this is pretty much carved in stone.

giving both of these to Miles
I was thinking of making holders for the both of these and attaching them to walls in the bottom above the planes. I'm not sure I have the room for that now that I have rearranged things. I will check it out this weekend if I remember it.

the final resting places of all the toys
6 coats of shellac
It darkened up like I expected and obscures most of the grain on the tote (except at the top) and all of the knob.

scraped the primer off the frog seat
bottom came off pretty easy too
I used the Harbor Freight heavy duty scrapper at the bottom.

painting the lettering and numbers
I don't want to have any paint pool in the letters/numbers so I over brushed this area checking for that. I came back and stroked it a bit more with a dry brush after the paint had set up for a few minutes or so.

This will need coat #2 tomorrow but the frog and the yoke will be done. I put the second coat of black on them tonight.

10 1/2
I did a full blown, sand, strip, and paint rehab of this last year or was it the year before? I didn't hand paint the plane, instead I had prayed it. It is has a dull matte look and it needs some shine there. I am not going to repaint and the first step towards shiny will be cleaning it first.

then I'll wax it
I will take the knob and tote off to apply the wax and get rid of the interference when I buff it out. I think this paint has had plenty of time to cure. I shouldn't have any problems applying wax to it now.

another plug for Autosol
I used Autosol on this way back when I finished the rehab. I haven't applied any since and I have used this several times to make rabbets. It still looks good and this is where I ran out of gas for the night.

The plan was to get this waxed and buffed tonight and call it done. The #3 might need some painting. I can't remember how far I went with the rehab on that one. I did it several years ago so I probably didn't strip and paint it. Checking that one out will have to wait until tomorrow or possibly the day after.

Blogger bit me on the arse again. I published two comments, one from Sparks, and another from Steve, and both ended up in a black hole somewhere. I can't access the comments for this blog post at all. It's annoying to me that I don't know what causes the comments to freeze like this and lock me out of them. So my apologies Sparks and Steve, I think they got published but I can't respond to them

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Mort Walker drew the Beetle Bailey comic strip for over 50 years? (he passed away today at age 94)

The Desk Project – The Prototype

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 4:01pm

It’s been more than four months since I last wrote about my project to interpret an early 19th century writing desk for a client, when I had the opportunity to use period appropriate technology for virtually the entire project.  Previously I had written about deriving the design templates for the project, and this post will finally get down to fashioning wood.

My first problem(?) was that I was a bit hazy on some of the internal construction details of the original.  To resolve that void, or to at least come to a workable conclusion, I needed to build a full scale prototype.  Using some left over 2x SYP from a workbench-building  project I did just that.  I rough cut each leg element with a bandsaw (this was primarily a proportion and joinery exercise) then shaped them just enough to get the gist of the idea.

Then with each individual element fashioned I dove into the joinery for the complete leg assembly, with frequent dry fittings.

Using PVA I glued up each leg.

In the end I had two leg assembles shaped and fashioned, and joined, glued, and assembled.  This was an important moment as I  exerted my full weight on each individual leg to make sure they would hold.

They did.

Oak Writing Desk

Anne of All Trades - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 12:11pm
Screen Shot 2018-01-26 at 3.44.35 PM.png

I'm really excited to be working with Marc Spagnuolo, the Wood Whisperer to create in-depth content for his online woodworking guild. If you've been following me or my blog for a while, you may remember an oak writing desk I built with my good friend Jonathan at Homestead Heritage in Waco, Texas. Since I will be modifying and expanding the original design for the desk over the next couple of months and documenting the process for the Guild, I thought I'd share the original article I wrote about the experience building the chest at Homestead Heritage for F&C magazine. Click here to read the whole article.  


A Primer on Scribing: How to Scribe with a Shim

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 5:05am

Scribing, like coping, is one of those seemingly magical techniques that allow you to make one piece fit another. Scribing has a variety of applications. It’s not only good for fitting trim to irregular walls, or cabinets to floors that are out of level; you can scribe almost any material – round logs, sheets of drywall, floor tiles, pieces of exterior siding … you could even, in principle, use it […]

The post A Primer on Scribing: How to Scribe with a Shim appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

tool rehab day......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 01/29/2018 - 12:38am
I ended up doing rehab work for most of the day. I hadn't planned on that, it just happened. My hands weren't hurting too bad and all the finger work I was doing wasn't bothering me. So I went with the flow and did what I could because I never know when they will start singing arias. I also changed the rehab schedule. I was going to do the #7 and #8 after I got done with the two I have in the queue now. I switched that to the 10 1/2 and the #3 being next. Why? I use them more than I use the #7 and #8.

what is the white line?
I am not getting any jamming under the chipbreaker but I still want to know what that white line is. Is it a gap between the chipbreaker and the iron? I flattened the back of the iron and I stoned the back edge of the chipbreaker. So two flats should equal zero light, right?

back of the chipbreaker
The edge is shiny and consistent in width side to side. The white line I see I thought was light being reflected off of this but it isn't. I shined a light at the front I can see that for about half of the width. I have a gap but I still am not getting jamming? Why?

I can close it
With almost no finger pressure on the chipbreaker, I can close the gap. When I do that and shine the flashlight on the front, I see no light under the chipbreaker and no white line.

the third part
The lever cap is providing the final bit of pressure on the chipbreaker to close the gap. I checked 5 of my spares and all five of them have a gap I can see when the flashlight is shined on the front. I do not have a problem with any of these jamming or getting shavings under the chipbreaker. Some of them have questionable flattened iron backs but all have a good stoned edge on the chipbreaker (similar to the one above). So the lever cap must be what is closing it when I use them.

5 1/2 tote
Scraped and sanded up to 320 grit. This will turn dark once the shellac goes on. I like this lighter unfinished look because I can see the grain. The shellac tends to hide that.

scraped the knob
The finish on this wasn't shellac and I'm guessing it was lacquer.

the grain runs up/down
Most of the ways I have seen this done is via the dill press. I have done them in the drill press too but I don't do that anymore. Sanding them in drill press means your are sanding across the grain. I opted to scrape and sand the knob with the grain.

scraped and sanded up to 320
The whole operation on the knob took less than 10 minutes to do. Both of these are ready for shellac. I will brush on the first two coats and then I will spray on 3-4 more after that.

problem area on the 5 1/2
This area doesn't have any japanning and it is incredibly difficult to clean and sand to bare metal in this area.

part of my Harbor Freight road trip
I got these to scrape all the areas I can't sand and get my fat fingers in.

got a buffer on sale for $45
I had a $20 off coupon and I got the upgraded warranty on this. In the first 90 days if this goes south they will give me a new one. After that she said they will fix it which means they will give me another one then too.

replenished my brushes
These were all on sale and I needed them. I go through at least one steel and one brass brush on each plane I rehab. The brass ones especially don't last too long.

filed the edge until I rolled a burr
it worked
I was able to scrape the rust away down to bare metal. The burr didn't' last too long but it worked. I had to make a fresh burr a few times to complete these two spots.

Autosol test
According to the writing on the tube this stuff cleans, shines, removes rust, and protects a lot of different kinds of metal. I don't think it shines all that much and I'm going to find out if I'm right or wrong. This is the before pic.

it definitely cleaned this
You apply this with a rag and then wipe and buff it right away.

I don't see a difference
I think for this to shine it would have to be a 'wow' moment to get my attention. It didn't say wow but I do know that this stuff protects. I had used Autosol on this about 4-5 months ago and it still looks good.

LN #4 1/2
I have never used Autosol on this before and it has some rust blooms on this side at the toe.

a few dabs of Autosol
 It doesn't take a lot and this is probably too much.

It didn't completely remove the rust blooms but it did it justice and got 95% of it. I give it a C+ on the shine and an A on cleaning. This is good stuff and worth having in the shop to put on your tools.

I don't see much of a shine raised
buffer set up
I'll try this out on the 5 1/2 rehab with the lever cap first.

first application of stripper
what I use to clean the stripper off the plane
shop apron
I have 3 of these and I can count on one hand and still have fingers free, the number of times I've worn any of them.  On the last rehab I got the dust from the sanding in my pants and it stunk worse than a pair of gym socks forgotten in a locker for ten years. I'll try to remember to wear this and keep my street clothes clean. At least when I'm rehabbing tools.

tried the scraper on the plane
The scraper worked pretty well with getting the remaining japanning off. I had 4 sizes to pick and choose from.

2nd and 3rd applications
The stripper doesn't stick and work well on vertical parts of the plane. I stripped this side first and then did the other one. The two other vertical spots are the cross brace in front of the mouth and the back of the frog seat. Extra work but I don't have a sandblaster to help out.

sanded with 80 grit paper  and cleaned with acetone before the primer gets sprayed on -
extra screws/studs to cover the holes

I had to stuff a bit of paper towel in the frog adjust screw hole because I don't have an extra one of those.

for the frog seat
I have used this before with good results. I coated the frog seat and the two bare areas at the bottom by the mouth.

 I fixed the 044
The first 044 with the new fence on it didn't work. It will plow a groove but not with the fence up against the edge. I could keep the back heel of the fence there but the toe wandered off to the left away from the edge. Nothing I tried changed that. I then ran 3 grooves with the new 044 without any hiccups.

removed the grooves from test run #1 for a second run
ran 4 more grooves
I did the first one starting at the left and working back. I did the next 3 by starting at the right and going to the left. No problems with plowing the grooves. No problem keeping the fence tight against the edge. Much joy and rejoicing in Mudville with dancing in the streets.

I did have one problem
The depth shoe slipped on me.

the last groove
I plowed it so deep it met the bottom of the other groove and planed this piece right off.

I'm happy with this
The grooves are parallel to the edge from the toe to the heel. The second plow plane is working as expected.

first one on the left, the replacement on the right
I wish this was the opposite of what I'm keeping. The first 044 has better nickel plating then the right one. I think the problem with the first 044 is definitely the front hole wasn't drilled 90° to the body. . The rods on the 2nd 044 are both square to the body once I tighten the screws on the rod.

The first 044 is stowed away on top of the finishing cabinet.  I will use the rods from it with the new 044. The 2nd 044 has two different sized diameter fence rods whereas on the first 044 the two are the same. I will use the plane as it is and hold off on getting replacement rods. I am leaning in the direction now that the rods are designed this way. Maybe it was done this way because of manufacturing practices at that time.

both planes have the same Record design number
On the heel of the skate is a Record design number but the iron clamps are different. Everything else on the two plows are the same except for this and what follows.

why it slipped
The rods on the depth shoes are different diameters. I would expect these having the same design number that they would be identical. Maybe this is why it slipped but it also could have slipped because I didn't tighten down the screw enough.

cleaned, degreased, and rinsed
I will give these small parts an EvapoRust bath. I stopped at Home Depot to get some Rem oil but I couldn't find it. The Plane Collector uses that on his small parts and he said he gets it from HD. I asked the tool guy there and he said he never heard of the stuff. I'll stick with my oil regimen for now.

something odd
I just noticed this about the lever cap for locking the iron. See it?

just the rounded end is nickel plated
It is looking like I'll have a couple of tools rehabbed this upcoming week. The 5 1/2 will be ready for paint tomorrow and the Record 044 should be ready too. I just have to rinse the small parts, buff the ones I can, and put it together. The 4 1/2 should go as quick as the 5 1/2 is but we'll see.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know in the original story of Cinderella, her slippers were made of fur and not glass? (It was a translation error from the story's original french to english)

Upcoming Simple Cove Guild Build: Cherry Wall Cabinet

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 01/28/2018 - 6:57am

This is a guest post by Sean Walker. He is the founder of Simple Cove, a website for sharing project builds. He is gearing up to release a new build from the pages of Popular Woodworking Magazine.  A post shared by Sean Walker (@simplecove) on Jan 22, 2018 at 6:28am PST Hi guys, I’m a new face that you’ve not seen on this blog before. My name is Sean Walker […]

The post Upcoming Simple Cove Guild Build: Cherry Wall Cabinet appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

slow saturday.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 01/28/2018 - 1:51am
My arthritis has been acting up more lately and today it curtailed my saturday doings. It doesn't hurt much unless I bang or jam a finger. I especially see stars when I hit either of my thumbs. I can deal with the ping and work through it. What I'm having difficulty working with and around is the lost of strength. For some  woodworking tasks it doesn't matter but when you have trouble picking up your coffee mug.....and I drink coffee 24/7/365.

got my drawer slides
Both the drawer and the bottom tray are on the large side so wooden guides are out. I got 75lb, full extension drawer slides. I doubt that I will come close to this rating on the bottom tray with all the tool boxes that will be in it. And I know I won't even get to a 1/3 of the weight rating on the drawer.

for the top drawer
for the bottom sliding tray
I still haven't realized that these aren't what I think they are.

how are these tabs used on a sliding tray?
when in doubt read the instructions
What I called bottom mount drawer slides is this. I thought that what I ordered were drawer slides that mounted underneath the slide out tray. These slides still mount to the sides of the cabinet and I lose 2 plus inches side to side that I don't want to. I wanted under mount slides so I maximize my side to side to allow the toolboxes to fit. I'll have to figure out what I want, is called.

These slides are meant to be used in a vertical application. I could put them horizontally underneath the tray but I lose the benefit of the ball bearing action. The weight and force will be downwards where as the ball bearings will be acting horizontally on air basically.

how it is attached
I will use this one for the drawer and I'll save the one I bought for that for something else. Now I'll have to search for tray slides(?).

#4 tote
I scraped the epoxy spills off. Almost all of them were around the glue line.

first coat of shellac
It already looks like I never scraped this down to bare wood. I will put on 3 more and this will be done.

thinning the handle
I like the semi oval, tapered handle on this pigsticker. However, it is just too fat front to back. I have big hands and I didn't like the grip I had with it. It was hard to hold securely and chisel with it. I will keep the shape of the handle as it is but I will concentrate on removing wood at the front and rear and minimize removal on the sides.

my cue
The handle overhangs the bolster all around. I will even the bottom of the handle with that and taper it back up to the top of the handle.

feels a lot better
My thumb reaches and touches my fingers now.

getting closer
I think this improved the sighting of the chisel. BTW I think the handle is made out of beech. It looks like the beech I have in my stash.

made another quick mortise
The business end of the chisel has been sharpened with a rounded bevel. I prefer a straight one so it'll be a while before I get that.  I did a quick run on the stones to raise a burr and then I chopped this. I didn't do any layout lines, I just chopped it free hand. Doing this mortise with the thinned handle felt better then the one I did first with the fat handle.

changed the barrel nut twice
I don't like this being recessed this far down.

used my last Bill Rittner barrel nut - not much better
5 1/2 is in the batting circle
I have already rehabbed this plane. I have done everything on this one I did on the previous two with the exception of painting the frog and plane interior and refinishing the knob and tote.

the sole
I don't remember when I did this but it still looks good. Sanding and polishing the sides and the bottom is the hardest part of the rehab work. I shouldn't have to do anything more than touch it up with 400 and 600 grit after the stripping and painting is done.

the state of the japanning
It has some loss at the heel and toe with a few spots on both cheeks too. The frog is worse than I remember it being.

clean and degreaser action first then stripper
need some more sanding sticks
Paul Seller has used these but I made some only after seeing the Plane Collector make and use them. They are handy little gizmos to have when sanding the various plane parts.

made a pile
I made most of these with one free edge mostly because I was having problems with holding the sandpaper in place as the glue set on four edges. Two of the longer ones on the left I will cut in half. I tried to make dowel sanding stick but I'm not sure about it. I didn't get the sandpaper to go 360 so it may turn to burnt toast on my first use with it.

This is where I packed it in for the day. I went upstairs and caught up on the Hall Table video series that Richard Maguire is doing . After that I put in Joshua Kleins's DVD on building a table.  I'll have to watch that one again because I fell asleep while it was running and woke up when it was done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Uncle Tom's Cabin (published in 1852) was the first American novel to sell over a million copies?

PopWood Playback #4 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 01/27/2018 - 3:04am

  🚨 NOTICE: No Davids were harmed in the making of this episode.🚨 Episode #4 is live on YouTube! Thank you all so much for your submissions – we have six great videos to share with you this week. Look out for more PopWood Playback episodes every Saturday morning on our Youtube channel. I’ll be hijacking Playback next week, so I’ll see you then! – Jake Motz Here are the […]

The post PopWood Playback #4 | Top Woodworking Videos of the Week appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

#6 and #4 planes completed.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 01/27/2018 - 12:26am
Most of the #4 was done last night. I was so close that after dinner I went back to the shop and finished it using a spare tote. The #6 I did tonight after work and both are ready to join and lead the herd. This bug I have for rehabbing my planes is going to take a while to complete. Just thinking out loud, I have 9 planes waiting their turn. My 5 1/2 will be next followed by the 4 1/2. The next two after these are completed will be the #7 and #8.

finally found a pic
This is the way I received the #4. The iron had been derusted and it is badly pitted. The tote broke on me but the rest of the plane was in pretty good shape.

time to see how I did
This is my first time epoxying rosewood and I'm anxious to see how it came out. I didn't prep it in any special way like cleaning it with acetone or scraping the old glue off. I just applied the epoxy to one side and taped it together.

I think I did good
The handle hadn't shifted while it was taped and cooking away. Aside from the tape residue, it is flush according to the finger tip test.

I banged the snot out of this
I rapped this several times on the workbench trying to break it again. It didn't so I'm calling the repair 100% this time. I don't want this break again on me.

both are totes off of a #4
There is a visible difference in the sizes of these two. I know that the tote on the left is from a #4 because there isn't a screw hole in the toe. I had the left one on the #4 and it just barely fit under the lateral adjust.

it's a better fit
The heel fits just right on the small half round disc at the back of the plane. The other tote protruded past it all around.

two problems both fixed
The first one is the slot of this barrel nut is chewed up. This is the one that a big burr that I had to file off. I wasn't going to replace it but after the calorie count to get the plane to this point I might have to.

The other problem was screwing the barrel nut and stud on the plane. Usually I screw the barrel nut on the stud and then screw it into the bottom of the plane. I couldn't do that this time. I had to thread the stud into the plane first, slip the tote on and then screw the barrel nut on. The problem was the stud was pitched forward and wasn't centered in the counterbore on the top of the tote. I had to push the rod back and slip the barrel nut on and then screw it home. It took a few turns on the dance floor before I nailed it.

last step
I love this stuff. Not only does it shine up metal, it protects it too. I am liking the protection more than the shine. And it lasts for 3-4 months before I have to apply it again. Glamour shots are next.

starboard side
stern shot
port side
it's a keeper
It is making nice fluffy, see through shavings. I got it set to pass even shavings on the R and L with no fussing at all. This will serve me well at the upcoming class and I will put it to good use in the shop.

forgot the bottom shot

the #6 bow shot
I searched for a before pic but I gave up. I have bazillion pics and after slogging through them for 45 minutes I had enough.

starboard side
The original rosewood tote and knob on this plane I put on Miles's #6. I bought a replacement set made of rosewood from Doz. I can't remember where the maker said this came from but most likely it's a central America variety.

stern shot
port side
bottom shot
had to back up the frog
I had the frog too far forward and the iron wouldn't extend through the mouth. I don't change my frogs once I set them so the frog screw advance on the later types or bedrocks don't hold any magic for me. In all my years of using planes I can recall only one time that I moved the frog to change the mouth opening.

unbelievable shavings
I set it for equal R/L shavings and then I made a boatload of the fluffy things. Something magical to me when I see them effortlessly come spilling up and out.

see my dilemma
The #6 sticks out looking real pretty while it's neighbors look like junk yard wrecks. I will do the Stanleys for sure but I haven't decided what to do with the LN or LV planes.

used the original iron in the #4
I decided to try the iron that came with the #4 to see how it would work. It performed as well as any other #4 iron/chipbreaker that I have used.

why I wanted to put it aside
This is what bothered me about this setup. Looking underneath the chipbreaker hump I can see white. I can't see through the chipbreaker/iron meeting, just a white line. I planed a boatload of shavings with this and when I was done I checked this. I found absolutely nothing jammed or underneath the chipbreaker. Nothing more annoying than getting shavings jammed up in the chipbreaker. I don't know how to explain the white line but it obviously isn't effecting making shavings.

cleaned the tape residue
I got that cleaned up but there are few spots that I think are epoxy spills. I'll leave that for this weekend to fix. I am still calling this done regardless.

I found out something tonight about the blog I didn't know. If you do a double enter key stroke, that the blog gets published. How do I know this? I did it while writing this blog post.  I'll have to try and remember that quirk. I checked unplugged shop but it doesn't appear that it got published. Maybe I got lucky and reverted it back to a draft before that happened.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a lepidopterist is someone who collects or studies butterflies?

Book Giveaway: Wood Finishing 101

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 01/26/2018 - 7:19am
Wood Finishing 101

This week I’m giving away a copy of Bob Flexner’s “Wood Finishing 101.” This book is a great step-by-step guide for simple finishes. Simply post a comment below and I’ll choose 1 winner at random. Winner will be announced Monday 1/29. Good luck!

The post Book Giveaway: Wood Finishing 101 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

new toys.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 01/26/2018 - 12:31am
Got two in the mail, one for me and one for Miles. My toy is a replacement Record 044 and Miles got a 1/4" pigsticker. Can't honestly say that I'm thrilled to pieces with either one. That is the luck of the draw when you buy old tools. Both will need a bit of fettling to give the warm and fuzzy feeling.

1/4" pigsticker
I decided that I am going to get a 1/4" and 3/8" pigsticker for Miles's toolbox for now. These are the two most common size mortises and should get him going. I'm sure that before he gets to use either of these, I'll have added a couple of more to the herd.

funny shaped handle
It doesn't feel too bad in my hands but I think it will be way too big for Miles.  I may thin this down a bit and keep the oval shape.

my new 044
The rods from my first 044 with what I now think are hang holes. The new 044 rods don't have them.

first rods fit the new 044
The fit of the rods is still sloppy. And the sloppy fit is consistent in all four holes.

the fence works
The fence will cock itself on the rods but I can also make it parallel. Far away or in close, I was able to duplicate cocking and making it parallel. Once I tightened down the fence screws, it was tight and maintained the setting.

plowed a long groove
I started at the front and worked back taking full length strokes when I got there. I had no problems with the fence and it maintained it self up tight against the edge.

first one on the bottom, new one on the top
The new one has more nickel loss and the handle is showing rust on it. The screws from the first one are in better shape looks and rust wise over the new one. I can swap these out with each other.

10mm rods
They fit snugly in the new plane body and they fit only in the front holes on the fence. They barely go in 1/8" and no more.

eyeball for parallel looks good
it was off 32nd
It was easy to correct but this will prove to be a PITA with each use. Maybe with new rods I won't have to do these dance steps. For now it is an improvement over the first 044.

both rods wiggle in the holes
The back rod wiggles much more then the front one does. I really had to crank the screws to tighten them down and remove all movement in them.

done with all the sanding
I won't be able to get these put together tonight. I'll be tomorrow before I can show the glamour pics.

the tote broke again
I am not impressed with the gorilla glue at all. This is my third time using it and it is the third time it has failed on me. I put water on side and applied the glue to the other side. I got some foaming so this should not have broken again on the same line again.

I'm using epoxy this time
clamped with electrician's tape
I am doing one last check to make sure it is flush before I set it by the furnace to set up overnight.

10mm rods
McMaster said the rods would be .02 less then 10mm.

new fence rod
second fence rod is thinner
This is why one rod is looser in the holes than the others. This time I'll take Steve's advice and buy the 9.9mm rods. They are less the 6 inches long but I haven't had to make a groove more than an inch in from an edge yet. The rods that came with the 044 are about a 1/2" longer so I'm not losing much.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the longest refueled plane flight was made in a Cessna 172 and it lasted for 64 days, 22 hours, 19 minutes, and 5 seconds?  (Bob Timm and John Cook were the two pilots who did this in 1959)


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