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General Woodworking

Edge Banding Architectural Veneer in a Small Shop

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 8:57am

Recently, a woodworker who’s about to start building a set of cabinets for her own kitchen asked me how I apply heat-sensitive edge banding to doors and drawer faces when working with architectural veneers. She’d done some similar work before but had problems with tear-out during trimming. Here’s my technique, a hybrid between the system used at the first shop where I encountered this type of veneer work and some […]

The post Edge Banding Architectural Veneer in a Small Shop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Poll: How Do You Feel When Non-Woodworkers Call You a Carpenter?

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 7:00am

How do you feel when non-woodworkers call you a carpenter?

I suppose I was a woodworker in 7th grade, when I took wood shop in Mr. Boney’s South Park Junior High class, but I wasn’t very good at it. It seems I could never get anything square, or make good-looking joints. That was 1964, and I’m not even sure the term “woodworker” existed then. “Woodwork” dates to 1640-1650.

I was a framing and trim carpenter for a time after my Air Force stint. That was really fun work, and I learned a lot.

This was my very first nail apron, purchased from Sears. Our local Sears is scheduled to close its doors after 45 years in Edgewater Mall.

I remember a homeowner asking our foreman, Jack English, whether he knew any carpenters who could make her some bookshelves. One of my coworkers, older and more worldly than I, said, “What she wants is a cabinetmaker, not a carpenter.” I didn’t know that there was such a thing as a cabinetmaker, much less a difference, but I didn’t let my ignorance show, I just filed the information away for future use.

When I went to the University of Mississippi, Ole Miss, I was carrying a heavy class load, so there wasn’t time for a job, but I did spend some of my weekends making picnic tables to sell. Po’ Boy spruce studs were 10¢ each, and were straighter and had fewer barked edges than today’s studs at 33 times the price. Treated pine, with real arsenic, made a premium dining surface, unless you wanted to spring for heart cedar or redwood, and even that was affordable.

Today, 23 treated pine 2x4x8′ boards to make this picnic table and matching benches would cost you about $110.00. In the 70s, I sold the completed table with benches for about $50.

Cedar’s price has gone up a bit. When I made this rectangular heart cedar table for our eldest granddaughter, the wood cost about $200. But, it was pure heartwood, and has stood up well to brutal Kentucky summers and winters…

…The lumber for this little round job, with curved benches, on the other hand, cost around $400, and I had to do a lot of selecting to minimize sapwood use in crucial parts. Fortunately, it will live on a porch, where it will have a bit more protection from Kentucky weather, though it will still have to stand up to the two youngest grandchildren.

In the time between the end of the spring semester in Oxford, MS, and the fall start time in Auburn, AL, I needed income. I couldn’t make a long-term commitment to an auto mechanic’s job, and it didn’t occur to me to look for a nearby dairy farm, but there was a lot of home construction in Auburn, and it was easy to find a job on a home-building crew. So, for a time, I was a carpenter again.

We established in a previous poll that most woodworkers are DIYers. Therefore, we’re doing a lot of carpentry on our own homes and businesses, and maybe some for customers, too.

For me, then, I’m proud to be considered a carpenter. Still, when I think of my role as furniture-builder, I consider the difference between what my wife, Brenda, produces, which is fine art, versus what you can buy at a flea market, which are craft-level items. Not every piece of furniture I build rises to the level of art, but it’s always what I strive for.

In carpentry, on the other hand, art is not usually my goal, but I still give it my best.

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The post Poll: How Do You Feel When Non-Woodworkers Call You a Carpenter? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

lots of painting.....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 07/10/2017 - 1:43am
I didn't get all the woodworking on the bookcase done today.  I forgot to factor in the painting and I'll have to wait until say I'm done with the woodworking. I'm not saying it will be tomorrow because something else may pop up that I'll have to deal with first again.

saturday night after supper
I went back to the shop after filling the pie hole to filling the gaps in the tails and pins. I filled them up with Dunham's Putty and I sanded it smooth this morning.

I don't have a lot of confidence in the simple dado joint at the back and I wanted to reinforce it somehow. I put two miller dowels in each dado. I used my hand drill to do these which was a first for me with the miller dowel drill bit. Proved another handtool vs power tool thing. The power drill is quicker but the hand drill has a lot more control.

This came loose when I was using the drill and when I tightened it back down, it split in two.  This looks like it is mahogany. I glued it, clamped it together with painters tape, and set it aside to cook.

I have a straight board clamped to the top and the back is even with it along it's length.

unclamped the board
The top has a slight cup to it. I have to secure the back to it with it straight. I clamped the board back on and glue and nailed the back to the top. Once that was done, I clamped it along it's length and set it aside to cure for a few hours.

sealed the knot with shellac
pitch streaks
Across the top there is line of pitch streaks like this. It is heaviest on this side and tapers out going to the left. Paint does not stick to this stuff that well if at all. If it does stick, it telegraphs through the paint that it's there. The shellac will seal this and the paint will stick to the shellac with no problems.

new shelf
Lowes usually has 2x2 pieces of 3/4" birch plywood but not today. 2x4 and 4x4 were the only pickings on the shelf. I bought the flattest 2x4 piece in the stack. The left overs won't go to waste but I did want to minimize how much there was. I still have to rip the front pine piece to width and make a rabbet in it.

cleaned up the rabbit
Even though this is a small rabbet I prefer to use the tenon plane over the bullnose to clean it up. I like the longer registration of the tenon plane and feel it gives a truer action.

almost dead flush
I took one more see through shaving end to end so it would be a frog hair proud. After it had set up for a few hours, I planed it dead nuts flush.

planed the profile
Before I did the molded edge, I took one shaving off the front face to clean it up.

why the woodworking isn't done
This is the bottom of the top and it is getting one coat of paint. I don't expect the top to move much and the bookcase even less but just in case. If there is any movement there won't be any bare, raw wood showing.

before the 2nd coat goes on
The nail holes on the left (the bottom of the top) I don't have to fill as these will be hidden and not seen. The ones on the right will be at the back and seen. These I will fill with joint compound before I put on the 2nd coat.

painted the shelf too
Off camera to the right is the bookcase and I painted the sides and back of that too. I didn't use any primer on the new shelf and it looks way better then the other two did with primer coats. I am crossing my fingers on this and hoping I get out of this with two coats.

The paint for the bookcase is similar to the white of the interior of the bookcase and shelves. But it has a slight grayish tint to it. I was hoping for darker color contrast between the two. This is going on the front porch so it won't get a lot of look sees. The important thing is my wife saw it and approved it.

I plan on painting the base on the bookcase with one more coat after dinner. Right now it's on the saw donkeys taking up way too much real estate in the shop. Once two coats are on the base, tomorrow I'll be able to put it upright and regain some walk around room.

couple of boxes coming
These aren't going to be sliding lid boxes. I am going to put a lid on them with hinges. Doing hinges is something I need to practice and these will be a good opportunity. This is about all I can do with parts being painted on the bench too.

tails sawn
I stopped here and went upstairs to figure out how to use my new TG-5 camera. That was a quick 15 minutes. The manual that came with it sucks. It was a single multi fold piece of paper and not a manual. I had to read it with a magnifying glass and it was just barely about the basics. I wanted to find out how to do the WiFi but there was nothing there on it. I had to download the manual from the web, all 134 pages.

One thing I will not do is read a manual on my computer. I want to hold the pages in my hand and leaf through them. I want to be able to make notes in the margins and go back and forward if I have to. I think Staples will print this out and put in a booklet format. I'll have to check that on line and see if that is truth or rumor.

went back to the shop
I sawed off the half pins and the plan was to stack them up and chop out the center pin waste. That didn't pan out because the painted stuff is resident over my bench hold fast holes. The chopping will have to wait till later.

this layout looks a bit goofy
The tails are thinner than I like at the base. I may end up cutting these off and redoing the layout. I will wait until I get the center pin chopped out and see what that looks like.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What were the code names for the 5 beachheads on D-Day, June 6, 1944?
answer - Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword

Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #1 – Portable Air Tank

Highland Woodworking - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 9:56am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.

Sometimes you have a little job, but you just don’t want to do that job with a hand tool.

Take this little canoe repair. A crossmember needed a single rivet to supplement the existing rivets, but I ran out of the proper size and needed to put the canoe into storage instead of leaving it in the way until I went to the store.

Four rivets down, one to go. Darn the luck! I ran out of rivets when I originally repaired this crossmember, turning the final, single rivet installation into a separate job.

When I finally got the right fastener, I first reached for the manual rivet gun to pop it into place. Then, I remembered the pain in my arm, shoulder and neck from having hurt myself during a garage renovation project. That’s when I decided to put in a little effort now in order to achieve a long-term savings.

As you can read in my Highland Woodworking Blog post, after the injury I purchased an inexpensive, air-powered rivet tool. While it seems like overkill to pull out an air tool for one rivet, I’ve discovered that I can still aggravate that old injury with the wrong squeeze of my hand. The canoe repair was uneventful.

One of the ways I made it easy was by taking my air with me, instead of running a hose all the way to the canoe.

Enter: the portable air tank.

If your job isn’t too terribly big, you may be able to accomplish all you need to do with one good filling.

First, pump it as full as the attached gauge shows is safe. My compressor goes to 125 psi.

Fill the tank all the way, but don’t exceed the safe pressure limit.

Let your imagination fly! I finished my little riveting job in far less time than it took to set up, but, gained the two weeks that I would have been in pain. I’ve used the tank for impact wrenches and blowing small jobs that didn’t lend themselves to a brush or broom.

Of course, the original intention of an air tank purchase was to pump up flat tires, but it’s far more versatile than that!

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Tips from Sticks in the Mud – July 2017 – Tip #1 – Portable Air Tank appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Quick & Easy Tapers

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 4:10am
Quick & Easy Tapers

I’m about to wrap up work on an office that’s almost fully paneled with sapele. There is wainscoting, a full wall of bookcases, a paneled fireplace wall with step-back cupboards flanked to both sides and a couple of angled bookcases. Plus, there’s a door to case. Earlier drywall work pushed out from the existing door frame, so I had to build out the frame to make the new casing sit flat. I needed quick and easy tapers.

Continue reading Quick & Easy Tapers at 360 WoodWorking.

almost done........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 07/09/2017 - 3:26am
I came awfully close to finishing all the woodworking for the bookcase today. I could have kept on truckin' with it but it was 1600 and the bones were starting to creak. I also heard a few new noises but I don't think anything broke. Another hiccup was having to wait for the glue to set up before I got back to working on it. I know tomorrow I will be done with the woodworking and maybe the first coat of paint will go on.

base on
I did this morning at 0630. I used yellow glue just on the dovetails. No glue was used to fasten the base to the bookcase. I want to be able to remove the base for repairs or replacement. Plus it will help whoever comes behind me on this. I let this cook for 6 hours before I unclamped it.

base support
This is one of the cutouts from the side of the base. I used the both of them here at the front, left and right, for the bookcase to rest on. They are glued to the back of the apron

the bottom back support
I will put this one after the base has set up. I'm not sure if the base is positioned properly right now with all the clamps on it. It is hard to see exactly where it is sitting.

it was flat
I bought this 1x12 at Lowes and in the store it was flat. I didn't see any bow in it at all. 15 minutes after buying it I'm home and this is toast.

also bought two 1x8's
This is from the #3 common stock that Lowes sells. I have bought this crap before and had it do stupid wood tricks like the one above and that is why I bought these two as backups. I can get almost dead clear stock out of this for the top.

the two outside edges have hiccups
Since my overall width for the top is about 12", I can easily get that out of these two boards by cutting the two defects out.

pesky knot
I need a 34" rough length out of this 4' board and there is now way I can work around this knot. This knot is black and dry which means it can shrink and fall out. I'll have to work some epoxy in around it to keep that from happening.

3/4" cove
I checked this against my largest hollow and it is too small. I thought of this on drive home from Lowes - this is a molding I could have made. I have a cove molding plane labeled 3/4 and maybe I'll remember it for the next time.

working on the top
The plan is to rough saw these to length and get them glued up.

the two big off cuts I can use for the plow plane box
this is the winner
The grain run into this point on the board but it is straight coming from both directions. I'll saw this defect out and glue this side to the other board.

the opposite side of the board
The grain is running the same here as the other side but here it's a bit wilder. It isn't as straight and the grain lines are a lot wider here. This will end up at the back of the top. This will also be cut off once the final width of the top is established.

ripped off the first defect for edge gluing
got it glued up without killing anyone
This was only a two board glue up but it kicked my ass. I got a perfect mating between the two boards except for one 4-5 inch stretch on one board. There was a gap there I just couldn't seem to get rid of. I tried all the tricks I learned and what I've Paul Sellers do but no luck. How did I fix it? I got pissed off at it and planed against the grain going from the low spot to the other end. 3 swipes and I had a perfect fit with no gaps.

back thing for the top
This is the bowed board and I did a cross cut to get a rough length. This will give up the board that will be positioned at the back of the top. I have absolutely no idea what this is called. The smaller off cut will be put with the others for the plow plane box.

marked for ripping out
I have to darken the knife lines with a pencil because I have a hard time seeing them in the this light pine.

ripped out and planed the hump on this side
straightening the edge going against the bookcase
The opposite edge is getting a curve so I don't have to straighten it.

outside face has almost no twist
front face has about 1/8" twist end to end
This I had to take out. This face will lay up against the back edge of the top and it can't have any twist in it.

cove molding rough sawn
This will be going underneath the top to conceal any gaps between the top and bookcase on the front and sides. This will probably be the very last woodworking to do on the bookcase.

something new
 One side of the cove molding is ribbed. That makes cutting and putting it in place so much easier because you have a reference side. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've cut the cove miter on the wrong face. I cut all these out correctly the first time because I had the ribs to guide me.

layout for the back thing done
I sawed off the angles on the ends first and then cut out the round.

I sawed the rounded top on the bandsaw
Using a spokeshave to do the chamfers but before I did them I had to smooth and straighten out the round over.

chamfer laid out

stopped chamfer on the ends
The back piece is the same length as the top and I don't want the chamfer to run down behind it and leave a gap. So I am stopping it about 3/4" up from the bottom.

sawed the end cut first with the Zona saw
worked down to the pencil lines with a chisel
repeat for the other side
chamfer done
I did most of the chamfer work with the spokeshave. I followed that up with my block plane to smooth and fair it out.

flushing and cleaning up the dovetails
I tried to do this on the saw donkeys but it was working. I couldn't hold the bookcase and use the plane at the same time. I got a moving blanket on the floor and I'm using the lally column as a planing stop.

I'll mark and saw the over hang off
I inset the back a 1/2"
I didn't want the back flush with the back of the bookcase nor use a rabbet joint here.

screwing the supports to the bookcase
The screws are a wee bit too long so instead of screwing them in straight in, I did them at a slight angle.

screwed the back one in too
There is no glue holding the base to the bookcase. These 3 supports are what is holding the base in place.

chamfered the base
I did the two corners first so I wouldn't get any blowouts.

fuzzy pic
This should be showing that the pencil line is still visible after I sawed off the overhang. I planed down to the line with a block plane next.

going to need another shelf
flattening the top
I didn't go nutso on this. I did the top and bottom by eye. I didn't check for twist with winding sticks but rather did it by eye too. The board didn't wobble at the corners when I was done and it looks ok.

reason #1 I don't like make the back thing first
I have almost no wiggle room on squaring this up. This doesn't even look like I have a 32nd to split on both ends.

big ass shooting board
I don't use this that often but it worked exceedingly well today splitting that 32nd.

tear out heaven
The other side came out blowout free and this side went south on the Nutso express. I knew I should have knifed a line but with one side ok I expected the same here.

cleaned up the shoulder first
Using the molding to deepen the top shoulder was just tearing it out worse. I used the bullnose to do that.

fine set #3 and then the molder again
I made the shoulder deepen so I could use the #3 on this spot. I then ran the molder down the front edge again concentrating on this front corner. I didn't mold the end grain edge again.

came out a bit better
Maybe some joint compound will fill it up a bit more and make it look better.

I don't like this
This reminds of the beaded side frame butting into the bottom frame of the bookcase. I think it needs to be a wee bit higher.

this looks better being up higher
nailed a piece onto the bottom
I used one of the pieces I ripped off as the riser here. Since this is being painted it won't show. If this was to be left natural, I would have made a new back thing. I glued and nailed this because there wasn't any way to get clamps on it.

ripping the top to it's final width
flat, straight, and square
almost there
Attach the back thing to the top. Attach the top to the bookcase (still thinking on how to best do that).  Trim, fit, and install the cove moldings. Paint the bookcase in it's exterior color. Make a new shelf because you didn't want to do when you made the first two and knew you had too.  Then I'll be able to say it's done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many batting titles did Babe Ruth win?
answer - one. in 1924

The Tool World Loses An Innovative Giant

The Barn on White Run - Sat, 07/08/2017 - 5:41am

I was saddened to learn last week from Brian Meek that Lee “The Saw Guy” Marshall had passed away.  Lee was the creator of the Knew Concepts company that produced the finest jeweler’s saws and coping saws known to man.  My friendship with Lee (and Brian) had grown continually since we first met many years ago at a Woodworking in America event, and ever since we had picked each other’s brain on many occasions.  In some respects our friendship must have been an odd one, and more than once Lee remarked, usually with a chuckle, that he was surprised that a “Santa Cruz lefty” got along so well with someone who thinks that 1964-era Barry Goldwater was a moderate.

Our relationship grew into me being an enthusiastic collaborator with Lee and Brian as they continued to invent and refine new versions of their products.   Our correspondence was frequent and I reviewed countless design drawings that Brian sent me for comment, and I have many Knew Concept prototypes in my shop, and will continue using them until I hang it up.  Lee was always curious about augmenting his own experience with that of others, and for several years we combined Lee’s aerospace machinist mindset with Brian’s background as a bench jeweler with mine as a woodbutcher.  Many was the time I would explain precisely how it is that woodworkers used their tools, and before long I would see some new understanding become manifest in their tools.

In many respects Lee was a model for me to follow.  An octogenarian whose good cheer, unfailing generosity and insights were never diminished by some serious injuries he had suffered many years ago, rendering him officially “disabled,” Lee was simply one of the most inventive and hard working men I have ever met.  His brain never turned off, working diligently until the end, creating and inventing with many projects in development at the time of his death.  Brian assures me that they will be carried to completion.

To his wife and family, and all who knew and loved Lee I extend my sincere condolences and offer heartfelt blessings in the sorrow of his absence from us.  He is greatly missed.

bookcase base.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 07/08/2017 - 2:22am
I think I'm going to miss my target for getting the bookcase done this weekend. I made good progress on the base and that will be done tomorrow even if I goof off all day long. What is shooting me in the foot is the painting. Based on what it has taken to paint the bookcase so far, I'm looking at 3 days just to do that. I really don't  have a deadline on this but it is holding me up from starting something new.

not the first thing I spaced
I would like to say that I was being clever and sawed all the way across for a reason but I can't think of any that make sense. I thought that I needed to make a full length dado here but I didn't. The base will set down a 1/4" from the bottom shelf. After I had sawed both sides I realized that I should have made a stopped dado. This is recoverable because I'm painting this and I can fill in the saw kerfs with putty.

my second mind fart with the base
I was patting myself on back for catching this mistake before it got worse. The base at the back can't be positioned with a 1/4" reveal because the back top is at the same level as the top of the base. I hadn't caught on to this at this point yet. That light bulb coming on came when I tried to put the base on the bookcase.

This is what I had done thursday night in the shop. I didn't get any pics of it because my battery went dead.  Tonight was first spent correcting these minor detours into La La Land.

got my 1/4" at the front
the problem is at the back
The back has to be down from the top of the base 1/2" so I'll have a 1/4" reveal on the three sides. The light bulb coming on here was laughing at me besides blinding me.

washers and screws for the #2 came in the mail today
These took almost a week to get to me. I guess having the 4th on the second day of the week screwed up a lot of things. Now the #2 will be fully rehabbed and ready to use.

got my 3/16" pigsticker from Jim Bode too
My herd of pigstickers is complete now. I go by 16ths from 1/8" up to 1/2". I don't have a 7/16" one and I don't see the need for it. I chopped a mortise with my new chisel and it is becoming ridiculously easy to do. I have been practicing chopping mortises mostly with the 1/4" and 3/8" pigstickers but I still haven't made tenons for them yet. And that's because I only chop one mortise at a time. I think I'm ready to try to make a frame.

rounded and flat bevels
I have 6 pigstickers with 3 of them having rounded bevels and 3 that have flat, slanted ones. I can't tell a difference between the two.  Both chop and make chips equally well but I do favor the rounded bevel but I couldn't tell you why.

micro bevels
3 pigstickers have a micro bevel and 3 don't. The 5/16" pigsticker has a rounded bevel and a micro bevel too. Both chop mortises as well as the others but here I do favor a non micro bevel on these. And it isn't because of me not liking them. Rather I find it harder to sight where the chisel is when chopping. I'm sure that it is something I could learn to work with so I don't consider it a deal breaker.

back to the base
Ripping the  base to width.

marking the back for length
I have the base clamped up square so I can get an accurate mark for the length of the back.

squaring the back
I sawed this off of the marking knife line at an angle. I used my Lee Valley edge plane to square this down to the knife line.

clamped the bottom back so I can check it on the bookcase
fits and I have a 1/4" reveal on the 3 sides
minor problem
This pin is gappy and it is caused by the base fitting a bit too snug on the bookcase. At the front there is small gap but at the back the base sides are very tight to the sides of the bookcase.

closed up
It took very little clamp pressure to close the top pin up. I like the snug fit of the base and I don't have any plans to change that. This is the next to last step before I glue up the dovetails.

the last step
I sawed the cutouts on the base with the bandsaw and I cleaned them up with spokeshaves and block planes. I used a flat sole spokeshave on the flats and tried to use the round bottom spokeshave on the curves. I had trouble using it on this side and especially up high.

did much better on the other 7
Much easier and better results on the other 7. Not perfect but I'm feeling good that I'm starting to get the hang of using these tools.

I have to fix this
This is a weak spot on the bottom frame. Most of the forces exerting on the base will be downwards but I want to secure this as best I can now.

sawed a bunch of shims with the Zona saw
trimmed them with a chisel
refined the shape with sanding
all four bottomed out and filled the kerfs
5 minute epoxy
This is a tough thing to glue up. The splines are cross grain to the kerfs and the gluing surface in the kerf is basically end grain to the long grain shims. Epoxy is the only adhesive that will work on this.

I'll trim these tomorrow and glue the base up then
accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the color of blood in a octopus?
answer - blue green

How to Fix a Slipping F-style Bar Clamp – It’s Easier Than You Think

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 07/07/2017 - 7:35am

Many of us have experienced the phenomenon of F-Style bar clamp slippage. It can happen to quality clamps that had been put through extensive use, but it is more common with inexpensive clamps, where the manufacturers tried to cut on production or material costs. The problem is that the moving jaw can’t anchor itself to the bar because the bar is too smooth. The first thing you need to do […]

The post How to Fix a Slipping F-style Bar Clamp – It’s Easier Than You Think appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: The Perfect Treehouse

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 07/07/2017 - 7:01am
perfect treehouse

I just returned to the PW offices after a nice lake vacation. I’m still in the mood for swimming, fishing, BBQs and s’mores. So I thought this week’s book giveaway should be a fun one. Treehouses sort of scream summer fun, don’t you think? This week I’m giving away a copy of “The Perfect Treehouse” by Django Kroner. It’s a book filled with treehouse building advice and common missteps to avoid. Django […]

The post Book Giveaway: The Perfect Treehouse appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Groopshop 2017 Fun and Fellowship

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 07/07/2017 - 5:07am

The events that are Groopshop are filled with levity and camaraderie, perhaps unlike any I have been party to (admittedly I might not be the best judge of this as I was the guy at high school pool parties who was sitting in the corner reading the encyclopedia).  On the second night of Groophop we  usually have a delightful evening of fun in the guise of “Refinishing Jeopardy” followed by “Mike’s Mostly Honest Auction,” when we raise money for the operation of the organization through selling and buying each others’ shop surplus supplies.

During the former event I was the off-screen judge for the answers, perhaps risking a conflict of interest as one of the categories was titled “Decoding Don.”

Apparently they think I am in love with arcane words and esoteric technical terms, and this was the chance for the contestants to try and figure some of that out.  I may have been a little strict with Freddy Roman during the judging, but I sent him a box of shellac flour as an apology.

Following “Refinisher’s Jeopardy” the auction commenced, and the bidding was spirited and the lots were enticing.  I bought some sheets of veneer, loose abrasive powders, and some more stuff I cannot recall at the moment.  One of the most vigorous episodes was for some lumber AlL brought.  I bought a lovely pair of matched Spanish Cedar boards, but was outbid for a spectacular piece of Swietenia mahoganii by JohnC.  It was a real beauty.

But the real heartwarming surprise came the next day as I was in CVSW setting up for my workshops the following day, and found the John had left me the board as a gift.  I was truly moved by the gesture, and since no good deed goes unpunished I am considering appropriate packages to send him in return.  The board was perfect for turning into sawn veneer for an upcoming project.

That’s the kind of group Groop is.  You should join us, but only if you want to learn, exchange information in a friendly environment, and have fun.

oh boy, what a surprise......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 07/07/2017 - 1:18am
At lunch time on wednesday I had checked UPS to see if they had delivered my wide iron conversion kit for my new Lee Valley plow plane. They said they had delivered it but when I got home there was no conversion kit waiting for me. You can not file a claim with UPS for a failed delivery until 24 hours have passed. That is what I was going to do battle with tonight.

When I drove up to my house after work I noticed that there was a priority box on the front stoop. I am expecting a pigsticker from Jim Bode but this box was way too big for that. If it wasn't for me, than it was most likely book(s) that my wife had ordered. When I went to collect it I noticed it was for me but I had no clue as to what it was. I didn't look at the return address because right besides the priority box was a Lee Valley box.

It was my conversion kit but I don't know who left it. Was it the man in brown or the person who mistaken had it left at their house? Seeing that I now had my kit, I didn't care anymore about going to battle stations with UPS or anything else.

The priority box was from Ken Hatch who writes the 'I'm a OK guy' blog. I didn't have clue as to what was in the box nor had Ken given me a heads up on it. I had to get the garbage curbside first and then I gave the box my undivided attention.

Of course the battery in my camera decided to go south at this time too. So I wasn't able to snap as many pics I wanted to. I did manage to get one of each of the goodies in the box. Ken, I don't know what to say. Thank you for sure, but what you sent me was incredibly generous. I'm sure that my wife will get sick of me telling her about this but the cats usually walk away when I try to talk to them. Her I can wait until I have her cornered in her sewing room.

first thing I pulled out
Two rice bowls with chopsticks. My wife won't use the chopsticks but I'm sure I can get one of my daughters to use them. I have been using another set off and on and I'm not any good with them. The lady at the chinese place I frequent is very patient with me and answers my questions everytime I go in there. She can pick a sheet of paper with them. I'll have to kick up the effort and practice every time I get chinese now

iron/chipbreaker set with a lever cap
The lever cap has a broken flip thing at at the top but I have seen replacements for this for sale. I can practice on punching out the pin and replacing it. The iron/chipbreaker will fit a #3 and I can give it to my grandson as a spare for his plane.

this wasn't in the Ken Hatch box
I put this on the plane without any problems. I glanced a few pics in the instructions but I didn't read anything. Now that I have this, I can start making a box to stow the plane, the conversion kit, and the box holding the irons in it.

This is over the top
This is an awesome surprise and I was stunned when I saw it in the box. This was just too damn good to be true and I had to slap myself to make sure I was awake and not dreaming. Of course I had to road test it immediately.

realistic road test
I had to flush the base and I started on the top and used this plane to knock down the high spots. The shavings were a wee bit thicker than I liked but the plane was effortlessly making them. No stuttering or chattering, with or against the grain.  I swear the plane was singing as I flushed the top edge of the base. I used the #7 and the 4 1/2 to finish it but I really like the feel and action of the wooden plane a lot.

planing the left side
I could feel a wooden plane sickness starting to creep into my body. It would be very easy to go on binge buying a set of wooden planes. This is about as long as my 4 1/2 but it is lighter and felt a lot more nimble to maneuver.

flipped it over and did the bottom
I flushed the bottom wholly with the new wooden plane. Even the long front edge. This plane went through this pine quicker than a red hot knife going through a tub of cheap oleo.

square on all 3
Planing square now is something I kind of expect. If I am off I am able to quickly get back to 90 within a few strokes. I thought that I wouldn't be able to do that with this wooden plane. I can sense myself planing off square with metal planes now and I found out that I had that same sense with the wooden one.

I am kind of torn between keeping this plane for myself or passing it on to my grandson. I think what I'll do is keep it as a guardian until he is old enough to use and appreciate it.

I plowed the dadoes in the base for the back but I have no pics of that. My canon camera battery was dead and I haven't had a chance to read up on the Olympus camera yet. I charged the battery in it but that is all I've done with it. I'll catch up and post follow up pics tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents were former governors?
answer - 17

Handy Figure-eight Fasteners

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 07/06/2017 - 8:30am

I don’t actually remember how long ago I discovered figure-eight fasteners (ten, fifteen years?), but it was one of those moments when I felt like someone had answered a wish. I was struggling with how to attach something vertical to something horizontal and I wanted it nearly invisible. Then I found the figure-eight fastener. They’re not really a tip or a trick, more like someone showing you that ice cream […]

The post Handy Figure-eight Fasteners appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Groopshop 2017 Presentations

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 07/06/2017 - 5:42am

The program for this year’s Groopshop of the Professional Refinisher’s Group was an embarrassment of riches, with wide ranging presentations and demonstrations that were edifying to all in attendance.

As was the usual for our events, the several dozen folks in attendance were held in rapt attention as every single session provided nuggets of knowledge for us present.

Golden Artists Colors technical guru Mike Townsend gave a reprise to his presentations at the very first Groopshop almost two decades ago with two spectacular demos on color theory and airbrush techniques.  I am a bit of a color theory maven myself and found Mike’s presentation of the idea and practice of color decoding and matching to be superb.  He has a real sense of how to connect to an audience of varying experience, and his own background as an artist really comes to light when he is discussing appearance.  He provided blank panels to everyone and we followed right along as he showed how color interact with each other.


His no-nonsense demo of airbrushing was a huge hit, and as is often the case with Groopshop demos the audience was soon crowded around him trying all the things he was showing us.  One of the highlights of the session was his use of an almost century-old mini air compressor to drive his airbrushes.

John Coffey also had two sessions, sharing the lessons of several decades’ worth of successful experience.  His first session was an excellent discourse on dealing with curvalinear and heavily carved surfaces, and his second was a demo of gilded borders on leather tops.  To say the least the interest was high for both of them, and he found himself in the center of a mosh pit.

Len Reinhardt was attending his first Groopshop and absolutely stunned us with a recently completed project of conserving a pair of giant valances from a famed historic mansion in Nashville.  It  really was a first-class project and presentation.

Dan Carlson regaled us with the mostly-unsuccessful fad of repainting countertops in situ, along with many other home remedies for damaged furniture.  Given that many in our cohort will be called on to deal with these failures it was timely instruction.

Mike Mascelli and Tom DelVecchio somehow snuck in some discussion of caring for and preserving aged upholstery.    Tom is the inventor of The DelVe Square that is made by Woodpeckers, and one of my very favorite tools.

John Szalay and Christine Grove were given an open mike for the after-dinner session on the first day, and as usual had our jaws hanging open with the inventive amazingness of their projects, ranging from furniture restoration to restoring vintage soda machines to casting metal parts for vintage motorcycles to rebuilding vintage woodworking machines.  Jon is better known to the outside world as “Jersey Jon” from the American Pickers” television show.  Christine has a passion for old-time machines, and of course high fashion.

Al Lopez recounted the progression of his shop from small furniture restoration outfit to a large project, mostly architectural restoration enterprise.  I was so busy listening to his talk that I forgot to take pictures.  Sorry Al.

Other presenters who I also failed to photograph were Mark Faulkner and Val Lennon from Besway/Benco, briefing us on new regulations about solvents and chemical safety and disposal.  (I took advantage of their proximity to pick their brains about my upcoming dive into the production of Mel’s Wax.)  Freddy Roman evangelized us by cataloging the role of social media in his business plan.  His talk was simultaneously awesome and terrifying to a sixty-something minarchist like me.  I gave two shorter talks, one on our recent adventures in ripple moldings, and one on the technology of emulsions and the design of Mel’s Wax.  I distributed free samples of the latter with the extracted promise that everyone who took a sample was required to give me constructive feedback, which has begun to flow in.

Even with all of this I m sure I forgot to mention some of the learning opportunities there, and for that I apologize.

And the fun was not over yet.

Matt Furjanic Talks about Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.239

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 07/06/2017 - 3:49am
Matt Furjanic Talks about Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.239

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, we spend time with Matt Furjanic of inlaybanding.com. Matt discusses how he he got started in the business – it’s a great story that is probably more common than you think –  and shares some of his thoughts on woods and glues used to make bandings of all kinds.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Matt Furjanic Talks about Inlaybanding.com – 360w360 E.239 at 360 WoodWorking.

new molding planes......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 07/06/2017 - 2:09am
I pulled the trigger on two new to me, molding planes. It looks like I got them just in time because the OT well has gone dry. They weren't that expensive, the beader was $29 and I couldn't pass it up for that price. And I don't have one in that size and it will get use in my shop as I do a lot of small work. The other plane is a cornice plane and I've been looking for one and I had two of them to pick from. I picked the one I bought because the sole of it looked better than the other one.

the bookcase
I had clamped this before I nailed it yesterday. I am sure the nails would have done the job but the clamp gave me a warm and fuzzy.

this corner is wee bit off
The side frame is 4 frog hairs short of the top and the top frame is two frog hairs below that. It is not going to matter in this case because the molding going here will hide. No one will know it unless I tell them and Mums is the word.

even if I don't use a molding
The joint line between the top of the bookcase and the top is pretty seamless. Once it is painted, no one would see it. The plan is to put a small quarter round here as anything else would be too large.

1/8" beader was the $29 deal
 This is the test piece that came with the plane but it isn't the reason why I bought it.

someone has done a bit of work on this

it has one large flat bevel
The plane has a removable fence so you make a deeper bead. That is what the large bevel is for as it closely matches that width.

my bead on the right
the bead profile is a wee bit off
This one should be an easy fix. I'll read up on Matt's (tiny workshop blog) post on rehabbing a beader before I tackle this. Plus I still haven't gotten any chain saw files.

reason two I bought this
$29 which included S/H was very attractive but The sole was the #1 reason why I bought it. The boxwood is almost pristine. No gaps, no looseness, no chips or other defects from end to end, and it is dead nuts straight and flat.

my cornice plane from Hyperkitten

back of the iron
looks like a large micro bevel on the edge
It doesn't appear to be sharp but I am going to road test it as is.

as good as sole as the beader
The sole is clean, clear, and defect free along with the boxing. Both are dead straight without even a tiny nick anywhere on it. And the mouth is clean and tight too. These are usually chipped a bit across the width.

nice shavings
The iron is almost a perfect match for the sole. I think I got lucky with this one as most of my irons don't match up as good as this one does.

I like this profile
Josh had a few other cornice molders but he sold them when I went back to pick another one. Now that I have seen what this looks like I will keep my eyes open for a larger and smaller one.

ripping it out
I want to see if this is small enough to use on the bookcase.

nope, it's too big
If this was about a 1/2" thinner in the width I would use it here.

It would look good here
too big for the bottom base
This molding would sit on top of the base and be set down from the top about an 1/8". If I do it that way I have a gap between the top of the base and the bottom of the bookcase. It looks like a chamfer is the way to go here.

planed and ripped out one more
this will work too
Thinking about using this on the bottom of a box. I sawed the miters by eye just to see what wrapping a corner would look like.

close but not a match
I planed the right one first and the left one second. I am sure that I registered the plane the same but I obviously was a wee bit off. I can see the wisdom in making all your moldings out of one piece of wood and all at the same time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner

What was the name of the first movie released with the NC-17 rating (no children under 17)?
answer -  Henry and Jane

VideoWoodworkers – Skiatook Adventure with Shawn Graham

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 07/05/2017 - 9:09am

On June 23-24, 2017, a bunch of YouTubers converged on a field in Oklahoma to abandon technology and go old school. The “Skiatook Adventure” differentiated itself from other events via its complete lack of agenda. There were no tool vendors, no pitchmen, no schedule. Visitors weren’t coming to buy, learn or try new things. The event was all about getting past the information highway and socializing “IRL.” The event was […]

The post VideoWoodworkers – Skiatook Adventure with Shawn Graham appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Intro – Basic Woodworking Class at Center for Furniture Craftmanship

Highland Woodworking - Wed, 07/05/2017 - 7:00am

Me, Nick Offerman, and my Dad (Chris Bagby, co-owner and founder of Highland Woodworking)

My name is Molly Bagby and I have been involved with Highland Woodworking since I was a mere 7 days old (or maybe even sooner than that). Once my Mom, Sharon Bagby, recovered from pregnancy she started back to work right away and brought me with her. While I don’t remember much from those early days, growing up at Highland Woodworking has contributed to my passion for learning new things, as well as my crafting skills. But despite being around tools for most of my life I have never actually taken the time to learn basic woodworking. Now that I am more involved with the business side of helping to run the store, I figured it was about time to actually learn some woodworking skills.

An amazing opportunity recently came along to take a 2 week Basic Woodworking class at the Center for Furniture Craftmanship in Rockport, Maine. These classes fill up months in advance and when I called back in April to sign-up I was told that the class was full, but I could be put on the waitlist. I remained on the waitlist for several weeks. About a month before the class was scheduled to start, I gave them a call to see where I was on the waitlist. There were still 2 people ahead of me, so I figured my chances were pretty slim this close to the start. Last Tuesday, I got a voicemail while at work and saw that it was from the Center for Furniture Craftmanship. I called them back right away and they said a spot had just opened up due to a last minute cancellation and it was mine if I wanted it. It didn’t take me long to decide and I said yes right away. I mean, wouldn’t you have said yes to an opportunity to escape to Maine for 2 weeks and become fully engulfed in woodworking?

During these next 2 weeks I’m looking forward to learning as much as I possibly can about woodworking so I can become a better, more educated employee at Highland. I’m also looking forward to beginning a new hobby. Judging from what I’ve been able to see through the shared experiences of our customers, I’m sure it will be a very rewarding one.

Stay tuned to this blog to hear about my journey as a beginning woodworker! You can also follow me and my experiences on Instagram @highlandwoodwoman.

The post Intro – Basic Woodworking Class at Center for Furniture Craftmanship appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Make a Historic Beeswax, Oil & Turpentine Furniture Polish Finish

Wood and Shop - Wed, 07/05/2017 - 4:00am
In this tutorial I teach how to mix melted beeswax, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine to create a lovely historic wood finish and furniture polish. This recipe was taught to me by both the furniture makers at Colonial Williamsburg and the Frontier Culture Museum. How to Make a Historic Beeswax, Oil

made a lot of progress.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 07/05/2017 - 1:37am
The bookcase is moving along nicely and it is looking like I may be done with it this weekend. I got a lot accomplished in spite taking a few extended breaks. The weather was nice but I was a wee bit tired and I almost nodded off a few times. OT has been cutoff at work andI'm still on that schedule. It will probably take me another week to get adjusted to my new hours. The goal is to get this bookcase done and make my finishing cabinet next, then Myles's tool chest.

I found out what it is
It is a window and door casing molding plane. It was available in widths from 1/2" to 1 3/4".

Ohio Tool catalog page from ?

no spring lines
From what little I know about molding planes, I know that no spring lines mean the plane is used with it held vertically. And this profile does not match the one in the Ohio Tool catalog I found. It's the middle far right one on the catalog page.

removed the tip on the right
The catalog shows this profile with a fillet (?) on the left with a slanted field ending in another fillet on the right. This profile has two fillets with one at 90° to the top (left one) or the other at 90° to the right edge.

planed it off
This still doesn't look like the catalog profile.

sample casing
I planed a 1/2" bead on the left side and I kind of like this. Not the nicest piece of wood to get a look see at how it looks though.

end view
some more molding plane work
I am trying to find a profile that I can mold on the top of the base for the bookcase. This cove is too big for 3/4" stock.

this one was smaller
I need more practice with this plane before I can use it. That thin flat at the top was not an easy thing for me to keep even and parallel. I thought I could just keep the plane up tight against the fence and this would fall into place. Moving the plane in/out in even tiny increments would change this. It was wavy and the plane had still not bottomed out. So it was a moot point as this plane was also likely too big for 3/4" stock too.

partial cove
This is my first choice for the molded edge on the base but even my smallest cove plane is too big.

the original bottom piece with a test molding on top of it
I don't think this looks good. There is no separation between the side beaded frame and the plain square bottom. That puts the molding of the base right on top of the beaded side frame. There isn't a stop and go point between the two moldings.

this is what I am going to do
 I am making a new bottom piece that will be proud of the beaded side frame by about 3/16". The bottom being up and away from the side frame will give a place for the beaded side frame to die out and the molded edge of the base to stand on it's own.

tried several more profiles
None of the profiles did anything for me. I am scraping all of them and I will plane a chamfer on the 3 edges of the base instead.

one my several breaks upcoming
I thought I would finish up the #2 plane at oh dark 45 but that was a bust too. My wife decided to sleep in late so I couldn't run the vacuum cleaner to clean the dust off of the sanding belt.

a couple of hours later
The #2 plane is done and making see through, wispy shavings.

and full width and length shavings too
the sole and port side
The sole is flat and straight, along with being shiny. There are two blemishes on the sole, one big and one small that's hard to see. I sanded the plane up to 600 grit and the blemishes remained. I tried sanding the big one with 220 grit in a sanding block and nothing. I'll have to live with them.

bow shot
starboard side
stern look
This plane closely felt like a block plane when I used it. I don't think that it will be a user for me. But it's size might be just right for my grandson. I can almost hide this in my palm so it may be perfect for a youngster. This will give him four planes now, a #2, #3, #4, and a 5 1/4.

new bottom piece
I like this and I think it gives a better transition between the sides and the bottom.

tried the same molding that is on the bookshelves
I like this profile but it is too small to use on the base. It would look good but in a larger size.

last molding look see
I don't know the name of this profile but it has two fillets and a round between them.  I planed the top one off but I didn't like the look of it.

working on the top horizontal beaded molded
I roughly sawed the 45° on this and I'm trimming it with my new 45 mitering jig. What a difference a truly sharp chisel makes. I am using the jig for both of the top and side frame miters. By using the same jig to make the 45°, they should mate better.

new way of clamping
Trying to put the stock along with the jig into the vise was proving to be awkward. There isn't a lot of meat to hold onto and my fingers were hogging a lot of making it hard to keep everything aligned while trying to tighten the vise. With this set up the clamp secures the stock and the tail end is secured in the vise.

top frame done - this is the easiest one to do
side frames are next- rough sawing the miters
I chiseled the flat flush after I did the miter

layout is done on the back
sawing the miter
I have already made the vertical saw cut and now it's the miter's turn.

last miter done
Checking to see how well this fits is next.

bottom and side frames glued and nailed
some flexing in the sides
I left the top 12" of the sides free, with no nails. I wanted to be able to move the top in/out in order to have some wiggle room for the top beaded molding.

right side dry fit
right side fit
I am very happy with how this came out and how well the miters fit. I won't need any putty to fill gaps on this.

rough sawing the base parts to length
forgot to plane the top edge straight and flat
I had this stock on the bookcase trying to get a measurement with it and it was rocking. There was a hump in the middle of this.

round two for base stock
On round one I clamped the left side piece to the bookcase. I aligned the left edge of the front with it and marked the other side. What I forgot to do was clamp the right side piece to the bookcase before I marked the front piece. It came out 3/4" short and you can not stretch eastern white pine. I tried to several times.

On round two I thought I had screwed up again but I hadn't. I cut off a new piece 33" long off a long board but I took the off cut from that which was shorter than 33". I got the right piece and marked out the front.

I just sharpened this iron yesterday and today it is dull already. On the pine end grain instead of shavings I was getting dust. I had to square up the ends of the base with the 4 1/2.

the base
The front corners will be dovetailed. The back is the first front piece that I marked short. Maybe I can use it at the back.

dovetails done
Dovetails are loosely put together so I could check fit on the bookcase.

how to connect the back?
I am thinking of using a dado at the back. I would like to use a dado and a through tenon but it is too short for a through tenon.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the name of the pilot of the first Presidential airplane?
answer - Major Henry T Meyers


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