Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway! Enjoy!
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Today after I got out of work,I made a few stops trying to find some decaf K-cups. I stopped at two supermarkets and Wally World looking for them. I can get Dunkin' Donuts decaf K-cups but that stuff is about as strong as colored water. I wasted all this time running around and came up empty handed. The kicker was the comment from a sales associate at Wally World.
I asked her why there weren't any decaf K-cups? She replied that they sell out pretty quickly. I said it looks like a lot faster then the regular. Have you thought of increasing the decaf stock. Oh, no, we only sell what we get. Obviously the sell and demand equation is way above her understanding. I'll have to wait until the weekend to get some deaf K-cups.
|hard to see them|
|two projects here|
The other project involves moving my 6" jointer and sticking it in the boneyard (I haven't used it in over a year). The hole that will be left over after that I'll put in a sharpening station in it. I have the table top and I can use the trestle legs but I'll probably use 2x6's or maybe 4x4 posts for the base. I have a lot to do with the dinning room table but I can't help looking around for something else to do in the interim.
|sawing to OAL|
|shot the ends square removing the pencil lines|
|made the walls|
accidental woodworker 50 days to go
What largely unknown role did William Dawes and Samuel Prescott play in American history?
answer - they accompanied Paul Revere on his midnight ride to warn the colonists that the British were coming
No, in this instance I am not referring to Bender Bending Rodriguez, irrepressible star of the hit TV series Futurama.
Or John Bender as played by Judd Nelson in The Breakfast Club, the 1985 John Hughes film.
I am referring to Charles (Chuck) Bender, one of the leading period furniture makers in southwest Ohio. He used to be one of the leading period furniture makers in southeast Pennsylvania but he moved. He is late of the Acanthus Workshop and now a founding partner of 360 Woodworking.
A few years back I signed up for the inlaid stand class with Freddy Roman at the Acanthus Workshop. Problem was that I was the only person that signed up. Mr. Bender and I discussed it and decided not to make Mr. Roman to come down to teach a class for one person.
Our compromise was for me to come north and spend a week hanging out and working on skills related to making the inlaid stand. In other words, he would be my friend for a week if I paid him. Since this is the arrangement I have with many other “friends”, I readily agreed. This was not true when I was younger. Back then, my parents paid.
One day, Mr. Bender had some real work to do and left me alone in the back room with some veneers to lay up a cross banded top as if I were making the inlaid stand. I discovered I enjoyed working with veneer and cross banding. It’s like working a puzzle only with sharp tools and tape.
Come forward to present day and I suddenly was presented with the opportunity to do some more cross banding. The drawer front from the curved front wall cabinet (see yesterday’s post) needs to be 1 3/4″ thick. Since a 2 by 12 is only 1 1/2″ thick, I glued up my drawer front from two 7/8″ blanks. When the curve was sawn into the drawer front, the curve ended up crossing the glue line exposing both halves, the glue line and the differences between the halves in grain and color. It looked odd.
It occurred to me that this would be a good place to use some veneer. Just glue some veneer and cover my lack of forethought. My next thought was that if cutting and veneering southern yellow pine was absurd, cross banding with southern yellow pine would be even more absurd. Sometimes absurd appeals to me.
Southern yellow pine is not the easiest wood to work with but it is possible. Light wood is extremely soft and the darker wood is harder and a bit on the brittle side. Challenging but if we were looking for easy we would all be (insert your least favorite activity here).
The dark areas are burn through. Instead of vacuum bagging as I was taught, I was in a hurry and clamped it, badly. I used the cut offs to clamp the outer two-thirds and applied insufficient pressure to the center allowing the hot hide glue to accumulate in the center and bubble up unevenly. Sanding revealed my lack of technique as the congealing glue came oozing through the thinned wood.
Like many other things I’ve done, it started as a woodworker’s inside joke and turned out better than I thought. Then I get annoyed that I didn’t do it better although I didn’t set out to do it well. Some woodworking pundit recently wrote about always doing your best work. On some level he was right.
I’m still not going to build my jigs and templates from Baltic birch.
Or put a finish on them.
I made another drawer front this time leaving the front section as thick as possible and only adding enough wood to the back to make up the 1 3/4″ thickness. It turned out much better.
And I made enough pine veneer to open my own IKEA.
In the above video I share the second part of my recent visit to the 18th century Anthony Hay Cabinet Shop at Colonial Williamsburg here in my home state of Virginia. (Make sure to subscribe here so you don’t miss the following parts).
Did you miss part 1? Click here to watch it!
Below are a few of the photographs from my visit to the Anthony Hay cabinet shop at Colonial Williamsburg:
Click here to subscribe to Joshua’s future videos & articles!
I realize with no small element of chagrin that between all the activities drawing on my time, energy, and concentration, I have been remiss in carrying forward the Shellac Archive (it seems as though I have posted only 10 of the documents from my collection, which at least volumetrically, leaves more than 95% to go). I will soon strive to make its nurturing a regular part of the Blog. My personal archive has now taken up residence with us in the mountains, so I can resume the scanning and editing of it for dissemination to you.
This reality was struck home to me this week as I was trying to find a particular picture I needed as I near the finish line for the upcoming HO Studley exhibit. As is my wont when I am weary, I just let my mind wander, and in concert with that began to browse the voluminous folders of images on my compewder. While doing so I ran across several hundred pictures I had taken many years ago, recording the pages of long forgotten academic theses from one of the nation’s great universities.
The titles are self explanatory, but the depth and breadth of the contents are not.
The Manufacture of Shellac Paint
Deterioration of Bleached Shellac With Age
Dewaxing of Shellac
Deterioration of Bleached Shellac With Age (different than the previous listing)
Some Studies on the Effect of Storage on Shellac
Plasticization of Shellac
A Study of the Methods for Determining the Properties of Shellac
A Study of the Solubility of T.N. Shellac in Aqueous Sodium Carbonate Solutions
I will post these theses, but not until tell you the amazing tale of how they came into my possession, thanks to the conscientious generosity of two determined archivists. It is a tale of worldwide fascist ambitions, flourishing scholarship in an unlikely time (ultimately abandoned and discarded), and finally the overcoming of a pronounced phobia to reclaim them.
I now have 51 days to complete the table. I took yesterday off from the table build and today is Master Woodworking class day so I didn't get a lot done in the shop but I did do a few things. I'll get back on track with this thursday or maybe friday.
|my latest obsession toy via the USPS|
|next to it's smaller cousin|
|one is MIA - can't find it|
|keep it tight against the edge and it works well|
|found some dowels to fill the holes in the leg|
|found some scrap to fill the button holes in with|
|made a tic mark on my shooting board|
|barely proud of the surface|
|holes plugged - I'll saw and plane them flush tomorrow|
|before I mind fart again|
Time to go watch Mr Sellers weekly offering.
accidental woodworker 12 days gone a healthy 51 days to finish the table now
What major baseball player has had his number retired by 3 different teams?
answer - Nolan Ryan the 3 teams are the California Angels, the Texas Rangers, and the Houston Astros
Many of us will recognize this as the opening of every episode of The Woodsmith Shop, the TV outlet of Woodsmith magazine. Don is Donald B. Peschke, publisher and founder of August Home Publishing Company. The show is now in its eighth season.
I don’t love everything about the show, at times is seems like a Kreg infomercial, but they do seem to have an arc, as it were. The first few seasons were basic information about setting up and outfitting a shop. Lots of jigs and fixtures and skill building. It wasn’t until the third season that they built their first piece of furniture. I am more likely to build one of their projects than Tommy Mac’s or Scott Phillips’. I don’t agree with all their aesthetic elements but knobs are easy to change.
A few months back, Woodsmith returned to the local public television station. Woodworking shows come and go and then come back. I don’t understand. The only consistent show has been The Woodwright’s Shop and that mostly because they produce it. Season 8, episode 3, the Curved Front Wall Cabinet, looked interesting for the Monday night woodworking group. I have been trying to steer the group back to the furniture track.
As with any group, there are different interests and skill levels. Some prefer shop jigs and accessories. Some are fixated with sharpening. Others, like me, are more interested in furniture. Some are just happy to be out of the house and doing anything related to woodworking.
Not everybody needs more furniture and wants to spend time and money on a project they don’t need. This makes coming up with a group project … challenging. I thought the Curved Front Wall Cabinet would work for the group but I had to sell it. And once I sold it I needed to build at least one. Group dynamics require one person to take the lead and figure things out in advance. Basically, to champion it. Here is the first prototype:
You might notice it’s in pine, southern yellow and white pine. All construction grade and none of the fancy “white wood”. It comes down to cost. If I am going to build several of these, I am going to use an affordable wood. The doors are 7/8″ and the front rails are 1 1/16″ so I needed to use some 2 by lumber. Milk paint can cover a multitude of sins.
Construction is slightly challenging. Nothing esoteric or extreme. Just basic fussy joinery. The doors are coopered, made from staves like barrels. To make things a bit easier, you glue up both doors at the same time on the same form. A wider panel is far easier to handle and get a uniform curve.
One issue I had with Don’s methods is fairing the doors. Being glued up from six, three-inch boards, the front surface of the doors is not smooth. Stylistically a faceted door could work but Don wants you to smooth it. Don uses a block plane. I used my trusty Stanley #7 jointer plane. Could it be that Don doesn’t believe that we all have #7 jointer planes? I could have used my new Lie-Nielsen #8 jointer plane but I hadn’t bought it yet.
I glued up two more door panels just because. This one is glued up from remnants:
This one is made from two sections of a 2 X 12 cut apart and glued back together in sequence:
Tomorrow, I’ll explain the alternate drawer shown here:
This past week I made my biannual pilgrimage to the ‘Live Free Or Die Tool Auction’ and tool sale out in the parking lot behind the Holiday Inn in Nashua NH. I’m glad my schedule worked out that I was able to go on Thursday morning — it was a beautiful day, I saw some friends who were only around on that day and didn’t spend too much money. Friday morning it was pouring so I briefly stopped by to see some friends from the school but many of the vendors were all packed up.
Let’s take a quick tour of some of the more interesting items I checked out:
The cabinet below from the Union Twist Drill company of Athol Massachusetts (same town that is home to Starrett Tools) looked to be in great shape.Union Twist Drill, Athol MA cabinet
Inside the cabinet was a nest of drawers which once housed all kinds of drill bits and similar hardware. It was also interesting to see the notes scribbled on the inside of the doors.Inside of Union Twist Drill, Athol MA cabinet
On another table was a nice looking moxon style vise with threaded wood handles. Made from a fairly large bit of timber I like how the maker removed a bunch of wood to make room for an angled saw.Moxon Vise
This year I finally got to meet Tony Murland in person. Over the years I’ve bought a lot of wood planes from his shop in the UK — including my matching pair set of hollows and rounds, snipes bills, sash planes and complex molders. On hand he had a great assortment of French Plumb Squares — some of which had some great decoration on them. I would have loved to get one if I had room in the budget this season for it.French Plumb Squares from Tony Murland
Casks of cut nails and a nice old tool tote with a dovetailed in handle and interior partitions.Nail casks and tool tote
Next to a box of saw sets was an old 1980s Ertl Metal ‘Case’ backhoe/loader which was one of my favorite toys as child — and something I had not seen in years. If it was in better shape I might have even picked it up.1980s Ertl Metal Case Backhoe
As always some interesting benches found their way to the show.Leather apron and bench
And here is a nice old tool chest that I spent some time looking at. Constructed with finger joints, this chest had some handsome hardware I wanted to highlight.Nicely appointed tool chest
Inside the paneled top there were some great old reference/conversion tables tacked into place.Reference charts under the lid
The corners had some nice brass hardware and all of the screws were carefully clocked (oriented in a specific way) — I know this makes my OCD happy as it likely will make my friend Chris Schwarz smile as well.Clocked screws on the brass hardware
And last but not least was an ‘Elite Tool Chest for Boys’ that was used to haul some wares to the tool show.‘Elite’ Tool Chest
What did I buy this year? Not too much which is probably a good thing. I’m trying to keep to the tools I regularly use and I have a very good working set. Also my tools/wood/toy budget has been saving towards a tractor and building a barn this summer — more on that in some upcoming posts. I bought nice Stanley Bailey transitional jack plane that I’ll be using to clean up some timbers — that wood sole will be a lot easier to use on green timbers. A nice metal block and tackle with a line lock that will be useful on a gin pole and about a dozen old manual training guides, tool catalogs/reprints and old woodworking texts.
Filed under: Tool Reviews Tagged: Alexander Forbes Tool Chest, Anarchist, Anarchist Tool Chest, featured, French Plumb Square, Live Free or Die Tool Auction, Moxon Vise, Nashua, Nashua Tool Show, Plumb Square, Tool Cabinet, Tool Chest
I spent some time searching for a picture of an original lamp — I had to pick through a lot of copies of the lamp from official reproductions to creations by other hobbyists. I found some decent images on Flicker. My goal was to confirm that the plans I’ve drawn up were fairly close to the appearance of the original.
I think I’m close enough to capture the same effect as the lamp. Their is an article on Popular Woodworking on building this lamp, but it doesn’t have the wings on the back, and the shade is attached to the base with biscuits, which I don’t like in this application. Instead I’m planning on an insert that will be a slip fit into the inside of the shade.
It looks like the original is brass, and the bottom of the shade is black. I’m not going to try to re-create the brass base, but instead just have a painted wood base. If you build one of these please send me a picture, I’d love to see your version. Here are my plans, I’ll pick up the materials for the base after work and see if I can glue up the bases tonight.
In the meantime, I put a (probably) final coat of finish on the shades. If it looks even after it dries I’ll wax them and call it good.
There is a common misconception that words, whether spoken or written, are meaningless, and that we should just ignore the insensitive, rude, or stupid comment and chalk it up to “trolling”. Well, I write a publicly open internet blog mostly concerning woodworking, including my projects, and my opinions on the topic. This entire blog is “word based”, as are most blogs. As far as I am concerned, words are pretty important. Words have forged nations, toppled empires, and started wars. Words have recorded world history. Words have moved people to great deeds, and brought ruin to others. Nearly every person on the planet communicates with words, both spoken and written, so yeah, I don’t think words are meaningless by any stretch.
There may be another misconception that I am paid or sponsored to write this blog. For the record, I am not. I receive absolutely nothing in terms of money, goods, or services. I am not a professional writer and I am not a professional woodworker, not even close on both counts. I do not sell anything here. I have done my best to support woodworking products such as books, videos, tools, and magazines that I have enjoyed and thought that others may enjoy. I have done my best to write honest reviews of those things (when I happen to write a review). Once again, I receive no compensation for those reviews, not in the least. In fact, I would go as far as to say that there are reviews that I have written, even though they were favorable, that the individual or company who distributes the product may not care for all that much. To that I say: If that is the case, please feel free to contact me and I will gladly remove the post with no hard feelings whatsoever. I’m not here to generate hard feelings. That being said, sometimes I do generate hard feelings, and sometimes I have them myself.
I’ll say this again because it is worth repeating: I have NEVER gone on another person’s blog or forum, in particular with regards to woodworking, and deliberately insulted somebody in the comment section. I have left comments, and almost always those comments were very innocuous, that were responded to by others in a sometimes not so friendly way. When that happens, and I see it, I will and have responded. Because the internet is filled with “Jack Wagons” as Greg Merritt so eloquently put it, a comment regarding something as simple as a hand plane you happen to like can easily turn into a name-calling, insult fest. If you are one of those people who think that woodworking blogs and forums are immune to that behavior you are woefully misinformed.
For my own part, if I feel the need to say something that may be considered “controversial” I do it on my own blog. The way I see it, another person’s blog is not the place to rant; there may be people who happen to read that blog who don’t particularly want to read somebody else’s ramblings. That is why I do it here, because there is no chance that somebody will accidentally read something they do not want to read. Otherwise, I freely admit that on my own blog I may say some things that other people don’t care for, or I may have an opinion that is not popular. Because I read a fair amount of blogs on woodworking and other topics, I sometimes read things that I don’t agree with. If I read something that is open to debate that I happen to disagree with, there are times I will comment. Once again, I do my very best to keep my comment civil and fair. If I read something that I completely disagree with, to the point that I may even become angry with it, I do the smart thing and leave no comment at all. There are some blog writers out there who want to generate controversy and a heated discussion on the comment board. They generally aren’t the problem, it’s the other commenters who are. So, rather than get into what I know will be a long, drawn out war of words, I avoid it completely.
The other day, I wrote a post about an exchange I had with a commenter on Popular Woodworking Magazine’s web page. There are people who didn’t agree with my handling of the situation, which is fine. I handled it in what I felt was an appropriate manner. Maybe the problem wasn’t with how the situation was handled, but the fact that I discussed it on the blog. Once again, I have no problem with that. But I do have a problem with explaining myself. As I said to a commenter the other day, there are things I write on this blog that I am serious about, and others that I am not. I leave it up to the people who read the blog to figure out the difference. That may confuse some people, and rightly so, but “it is what it is” as the cliché goes. A while back I wrote a post about the “Paul Sellers Controversy”, where he made a statement concerning woodworkers who use power tools. Was I really “outraged” at Paul Sellers? The answer is: “no, not even the tiniest atom sized bit of outrage”. But I will tell you what did bother me; afterwards, when the woodworking forums turned into an insult-filled, name-calling festival among those who both agreed and disagreed with Sellers. I took a lot of flak for that post, not only in the comment section, but much more so in emails. I spent far too much time explaining the point I was trying to make: I had nothing against Sellers one way or the other. At the time, I was only vaguely aware of him, and I read his comments second hand on another forum. I had a huge problem in that every “Jack Wagon” who read Seller’s post used it as an excuse to be a “Jack Wagon”.
We all have a right to an opinion, and he has a right to say what he likes on his on forum, just as I have the same rights on mine. I like to say that any opinion should at least be an informed opinion, but sometimes that isn’t the case. Either way, had myself or Sellers charged a fee to read our respective blogs because they contained a specific content that was expected with each entry, and then decided to change the format, then complaints would be warranted. But that is not the case with my blog, Sellers blog, or many, many others. However, it’s one thing to say on your blog or forum that you don’t like cheaply made tools or furniture; it’s another thing to tell people not to buy them, and it goes even farther when you make statements such as “The people who buy cheap tools and furniture are ruining woodworking!”. Your typical “Jack Wagon” who reads statements such as that suddenly has a whole lot of ammo to fire around the nasty comments and more importantly, they feel that their nasty comments have been validated.
So when it comes down to it, if you think I’m the “bad guy”, I don’t care. I’m finished with explaining myself or my style of writing. If you get it, and get what I am trying to say, I’m happy to interact with you even if you may not always agree. If you don’t get it, I can’t help you and I’m done trying. If that makes you angry then tough shit. I know who the “bad guys” are, and there are times I’ve pointed them out subtly and not so subtly. I’m not trying to sway anybody’s opinion one way or the other. I’m just putting my opinion out there. I am not leading the horse to water and asking it to drink; that is not why I’m here. I don’t want a flock; I want to interact with people who can think for themselves. Hopefully, there are still a few of you left out there.
Happy Spring! We’ve got a great project-filled April 2015 issue of The Highland Woodturner.
This month’s issue includes:
Turning a Garden Dibbler- In this article, Curtis discusses his process for turning a Garden Dibbler, which is used for making perfect holes in the soil to plant seedlings. This makes a great spring project and can be used by kids of all ages!
An Improved Knockout Bar for the Lathe- A knockout bar is a very important accessory for your lathe and in this article, Rick Morris discusses how you can make your own. This design specifically incorporates a slide-hammer into the handle and a brass tip on the striking end for easy and effective use.
When Ordinary Won’t Do- Terry Chapman recently connected with Clark McMullen, a woodturner who makes a living out of turning urns. But his urns are no ordinary urns and they incorporate a variety of design elements that “turn” them into beautiful pieces of art.
Show Us Your Woodturning- This month we are featuring several bowls turned by John F. Hayes Jr, who enjoys using “gnarly” wood that adds a unique design to each of his bowls.
Phil’s Tip- Phil’s April tip is a great one for those who have found it hard to keep their turning wood from drying too quickly while turning over the course of a few days.
All of these stories plus some great product deals and discounts in our April 2015 issue of The Highland Woodturner.
My next main project will be a Sawyer’s Bench, designed by Tom Fidgen and featured in his book The Unplugged Woodshop. He hasn’t done a tutorial on the bench yet, but here is a video where he goes through the design of the bench.
The Sawyer’s Bench is basically a glorified saw-horse. It has a split top for rip cutting, a removable fence for cross cutting, and the configuration of the legs is slightly unorthodox in that two are set at 100° and the other two at 90º. This helps with rip cutting, as it not only provides a visual guide for a square cut, it also ensures that you won’t hit the legs with the saw. If my description is confusing, the video will clear things up.
Anyway, all of this throat clearing brings me to the point of this post. I have already rough dimensioned the cherry I will be using for the project, and I am shortly going to break out the marking gauge and planes to establish my final dimensions, before tackling the joinery. Since I want this project to be 100% unplugged, it occurred to me that I might need some kind of jig or guide when cross cutting for length.
I began by laminating two boards together for the base, one smaller than the other so that the plane will have something to run up against.
Then I glued on the ‘hook’ to the underside of the base, and laminated two pieces of ply together to make the fence.
Finally I glued the fence to the base assembly, ensuring that it was perfectly square with the plane guide.
Now I can use it as a bench hook for cross cutting…
…and as a shooting board to ensure perfect squareness.
I might make a mitre block in the future, so that I can shoot 45° as well, but this will do for now.
Filed under: Uncategorized Tagged: Tom Fidgen
Don’t ya just hate those woodworkers who seemingly pick up and master new skills effortlessly? (A certain Village Carpenter and Heritage Woodworker come to my mind.) This type of person is truly accomplished in a certain area of the craft then one day decides – seemingly on a whim – they’re going to learn a whole different branch of it. Next thing you know, they’re incorporating master-level carvings, intarsia, inlays […]
You might be getting tired of HO Studley posts, but it is all I am working o these days so it’s pretty much all I have to talk about. It will all be over soon.
On my final visit to the Studley tool cabinet last October, with the owner’s permission I made a number of silicone rubber molds from the details Studley created and integrated into his masterpiece. My access to the elements was not perfect, it was an intact artifact hanging on the wall after all, so I chose two part silicone molding putty from Hobby Lobby. In the past I have used food grade molding putty by the bucketful, but for this project I needed just a bit and the hobby store package was just fine.
Using it is simple, just take equal parts of the two putties and knead them together until the color is uniform. Then, in the next 15-20 seconds press the wad against the surface you are trying to mold, sit back, and remove a finished and cured mold in a few minutes.
Given the spatial logistics of taking impressions from the tool cabinet, the molds were not perfect but they were useful. Once I got into the swing of producing the elements for the exhibit “The Henry O. Studley Tool Cabinet and Workbench” (tickets still available) I made some first generation beeswax castings from those molds just to see what was needed to come up with something exhibit worthy.
It’s fair to say that all of the castings in the upcoming exhibit were the result of several generations of molds and castings, with many hours spent in refining the representations of the elements under the microscope. On a project with more available time I might spend a week per element, but in this case I was lucky to carve out a day per element.
Much like picture from the Mars Rover, the whole is often a composite assembled from the disparate pieces. Even so, these are not perfect but they will allow the exhibit visitors to get a better sense of what Studley made to embellish his masterpiece.
In the end, using the molds for casting some pigmented West System epoxy and some mother-of-pearl I got results that will convey the grandeur of these elements up-close-and-personal for the exhibit patrons as this panel will be sitting on the replica workbench for touching and examining closely.
As time allows I will detail the process of refining specific elements, with observations about both moldmaking and casting materials useful to the decorative artisan.
Before I saw this I was trying to sharpen and hone my molding irons by holding it with one hand and trying to do the business work with my other hand. Not a good way to hone molding irons. I then started to clamp the irons directly to my work bench. There had to be a better way to do this.
Since I have now acquired a boatload of molding planes and none of the irons were sharp and honed, I needed something to help me out. Having both hands free to manipulate the sharpening medium while the iron is secured is an absolute must. And this jig will continued to be used to maintain the irons once (if I ever) I get them all done.
Most of the jig measurements were driven by the molding irons and the scrap wood I had on hand. I wouldn't use plywood for this because it splinters and the grooves and the platform edges won't keep their shapes over time. I wanted to use white oak but I didn't have any scrap large enough. I did have a piece of quartersawn red oak so that is what I used. These measurements are by no means carved in stone but they are what I thought would work for me.
|not my favorite spot|
|just fits inside of the wagon vise dog block runners|
|10 3/4" long and 3/4" thick by about 3 3/8" wide|
|1/4-20 threaded insert|
|my lateral stop|
I eyeballed the position of the threaded insert after I had made the lateral stop. I set it with my widest molding plane iron in the jig. At that time it didn't occur to me to check it with my smallest iron in place too.
Another thing I did with the lateral stop was to position it so that inboard edge was up against the back edge of the platform. I didn't want this to be flopping around and moving on me. This way the lateral stop is restricted to a left and right movement.
|lateral stop at the extreme left|
|panel raising plane iron|
|lateral stop won't work on this iron|
You can also see the bulk of the clamp may get in the way when sharpening. This is another point for why I like the small profile of the PH screw holding the lateral support. I'll have to revisit this iron and figure a work around for it.
The tang slot is sized for my largest width tang which is a little over 3/8". The tangs on the molding irons are all over the dial. Some are thin, some are fat, and a few are tapered. Mostly they look like 10 miles of a dirt country road after a rain storm. I made the tang slot a few hairs less than 1/8" deep. I haven't experienced any problems with this slot or the tangs being smaller than it. And I have sharpened and honed about 15 irons in it so far.
|an alternative hold down option|
|1/8" set up bar is proud in the slot and on the platform|
|about 2 1/2"|
|this I'm changing|
I would have done this tonight but I have to go fight the traffic and pick up a package for my wife at FedEx. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow if I think of it. As you can see the jig is easy to make and can be customized to your liking even easier. Re-invent the wheel and if you come up with a better way post it and spread it around.
accidental woodworker who took a table building day off
Of the four Grand Slam tennis trophies, how many are gold and how many are silver?
answer - Wimbledon is the only gold one - the US, French, and Australian Opens are all silver
My lords, ladies and gentlemen, after much ado, I present the Ambidextrous Grizz-ubo Workbench. (A Roubo inspired workbench with four Grizzly vises)
The tree that was used to make this bench, was felled in October 2012. It was sawn into lumber and stacked to dry the same day.
I first started work on the bench by milling the lumber on March 8, 2014. The bench was finished on April 17, 2015.
I wanted to take some pictures of the finished bench, so I put it on moving dollies and managed to get it out onto the driveway.
I bought two Veritas planing stops and a vise rack stop from Lee Valley.
I thought I would pull some interesting statistics from my blog over the past year. If I restrict my search to only posts concerning the workbench build (and not including this post), here are the numbers:
- Total number of posts – 62
- Total number of images – 1,058
- Words written – 69,694 (wow… that’s a novel)
- Time spent building the bench – 1 year, 1 month, and 9 days.
- Tools broken – 1 (and I really liked that router)
- Tools lost – 1 (I still can’t find that stanley folding knife)
- Dog holes drilled – 84 (132, if you count the holes in the deadmen)
- Christopher Schwarz’ workbench rules broken – all of them.
More Gratuitous Images:
Here are some more photos showing some of the details of the bench.
After the bench’s glamour shots, I put it back on the moving dollies and wrestled it back into the workshop. So here it sits in its final home:
I feel as though I should mark the bench some how with a makers mark. I don’t have a brand yet. A small brass plate engraved with name and dates made might be a good thing to add (so long as I install it somewhere inconspicuous). I’ll have to look into where I could get one made.
I would like to thank all of you who have commented on my posts over the past year and shared your thoughts, suggestions, and opinions. Many of them have made me reconsider ideas that I was planning and several of them sent me in wholly new directions. My bench, and my skill set are undoubtedly better off for your assistance.
Well, I really want to set up my dust collection system properly with rigid ducting; I have some bench planes that still need restoring; And, I still need to make a shooting board and bench hook for the bench. Also, the kids want a tree house and the wife wants a chicken coop. So much for making furniture!
– Jonathan White
This is the second of a working set of bow saws that I am building at present. I decided to use Andre Roubo’s plates as inspiration for this one. If you are interested in this brilliant book by Lost Art Press, check it out here. The final picture in the series below is what I was aiming for.
My bench while all this was going on.
In terms of wood, I thought Assegaai (Curtisia dentata) would be perfect given it’s strength and resistance to splitting when flexed. In the pictures below you can see the pieces I selected. You might be able to see how the grain is running off to the side at one end of both pieces destined for the cheeks. I specifically chose it like this to follow the curve of the top end of the cheek, hence improving the strength.
I used dividers to get a sense of the proportions of Roubo’s saw. One fixed measurement was the length of the saw blade (700 mm) as bought from Dieter Schmidt. I applied the proportions to this starting point to establish the length and width of the cheeks. In terms of the shape I simply drew something that followed the grain and added some artistic je ne sais quoi.
I drilled and chopped the mortises in the cheeks prior to shaping.
With the stretcher in position I marked out the correct location of the holes for the cross pin (6 mm or ¼” steel bolt in this case)
These holes were tapped and countersunk.
Next step was to cut the kerf for the blade.
I used the bandsaw to do the rough shaping.
The lines to guide the next phase of shaping were drawn as shown, using my finger as a fence. It is quick and easy.
The rest of the shaping were accomplished with spokeshaves, files and a card scraper.
I used the same piece of Tamboti as mentioned in my previous post for the spindle of this saw. It was simply a bit bigger.
A quick test fit. I really hope Brian Eve (Toolerable) does not get on my case again with regards to the string I used. I do not even know what this stuff is called, but it is cheap and available so that is what I went for.
Tung oil treatment.
Don’t you think Assegaai is exceptionally beautiful? I do. This saw hums through African hardwood. Viva Monsieur Roubo!!
My next project will be a Fidgenian frame saw. The other saw I have built already is a 12″ bow saw. Go here if you want to take a look.