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An aggregate of many different woodworking blog feeds from across the 'net all in one place!  These are my favorite blogs that I read everyday...

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General Woodworking

Carved detail on my spoons

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sat, 04/05/2014 - 6:10am

People have asked about the chip carving on my spoon handles. 

spoon 14-15 carving

I mostly learned this through trial & error. I had seen Jogge & Wille demonstrate it in their classes, but as I recall we didn’t really spend much time on this aspect. I cut mine deeper than what I have seen on theirs…and there’s folks who do it closer to what Wille does. I think of Jan Harm ter Brugge -   http://www.houtvanbomen.com/HoutvanBomen/English_text_spoons.html

Chip carving is something I’ve never addressed here, principally because it’s hard to photograph – all the shots I used to take in the workshop were easy to stage, then shoot with a remote to trigger the camera. Here it’s all tight shots, and hard to tell what I’m going to get because I hold the spoon and knife in my hands…and they shift around. Oh well, that’s my excuse anyway. I got some of it last night. so here goes

The tools first of all – from top to bottom:
Del Stubbs’ detail knife, 5/8″  - my favorite for this work. 

A Frost sloyd knife I’ve had for 26 years. This used to be the only tool I had for the carved decoration. it works. 

A Svante Djarv detail knife. I’m still getting the hang of this one. Called an “engraving knife” 

another Del Stubbs knife – I don’t see it in this form on his website right now, maybe it’s the same blade as his kolrosing knife. I got it from Country Workshops, where Drew calls it an engraving knife. 


detail knives

First tool I use is a pencil – I know, I’ve chased some of you away in joinery class for using pencils, but here they’re allowed. 


So I used the Frost knife just to show you can cut this stuff just with the tip of your knife. It HAS to be as sharp as you can get it, out to the tip. Usually I oil the spoon first too, that helps. This particular spoon is birch, and sometimes it almost looks like cow horn. The knife was working fine, I was not too thrilled with the texture of the wood… I wear a visor w magnifiers that I got from Lie-Nielsen. I get older every day. 

sloyd knife detail

Just hold it like a pencil, and make two cuts angled towards each other to create a V-shape shaving coming out of the wood. I stab in stop cuts at each end of the line first. 

sloyd detail 2

Here I’m using the Stubbs detail knife to cut 3-sided chips, this is what I think of as “real” chip carving. This knife has a very thin blade. Fragile, but outstanding. 

stubbs detail knife

a detail. 

stubbs detail closer


Here’s another shot, on a different spoon. 

 chip carving

Now the other Stubbs knife. this one has a curved blade, pointed at the top of the blade. The curve helps guide into long arcing cuts. 

stubbs 2 detail knife

Between the previous photo and this one below, I have swung the knife along the line. 


and here’s the shaving I removed. 



A couple of spoons are left from last week. I’ll then have more soon. http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/spoons-for-sale-march-pt-2/

here;’s the links to where I got my knives






The Great Horned Owls are sitting higher up, I wouldn’t be surprised if the chick(s) have either hatched or are about to… I haven’t had much time to hang out there to see what’s up. 

GH Owl





Kees - Sat, 04/05/2014 - 2:19am
It's time to put all else aside and start a new woodworking project. The windows from the shed in the garden needs some new windows. The current ones are mostly a shell of paint with a little bit of cumbly wood inside. These are the ones to be replaced.

They don't look too bad in a picture, but trust me, they are crap.

Now, I almost know nothing about outdoor woodworking and how to protect it from the environment. So I aksed around on woodworking.nl and I browsed around in the library. This little book from a comsumers organisation, published in 1994, is actually quite good and detailed. Especially important, it has local information, about how things like this are made in our country with currently available materials.

So I got myself some prefabricated window stock. This is almost all made from Meranti, a kind of wood I haven't worked with before. It should be more wheater resitant then pine, which was used mostly in the past, but it gets painted anyway.

Meranti is sold in standard sizes for windows with all the rebates allready cut. These sizes are a bit too bulky for the walls of a shed like this. My walls are only 10 cm thick, while the walls from a normal house are more like 30 cm. I also want to change the looks of the window a bit, letting them deeper into the wall, so it doesn't have the same "flat" look as the old ones. This means that I have to change the standard sizes.

A bit of work for the tablesaw.

Here I have been cutting the sloping deck of the lower window sill. My saw doesn't reach far enough though, so I had to remove the rest with a chisel and clean up with a plane.

Meranti is weird stuff. Very soft and light wheight. Splintery and loves to tear out. With the famous chipbreaker technique it is no problem to plane though. You must handle the wood carefully, because it dents easilly.

Categories: General Woodworking

I Have Lost the Will to Go On…

The Furniture Record - Fri, 04/04/2014 - 7:31pm

If you are of a sensitive (or sensible) nature, go back now.

The horror!

The horror!

Maybe tomorrow…

The April 2014 Issue of Wood News Online

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 04/04/2014 - 12:09pm

aprilwoodnewspicOur newest issue of Wood News is now online!

Our April 2014 issue (#104) is filled with some great shop tours, project ideas, and tools. Special features this month include:

An “off-the-grid” woodworking shop in Hawaii amongst a whole bunch of avocado trees and other crops. John App shares how he maintains his woodworking shop with absolutely no connection to any electrical company, whatsoever.

Mike Smith continues his last workshop series with his 10th installment, Final Details, where he answers a few questions from his last installment regarding his dust collection system. He also goes through the set-up process of his table saw and work table.

Blog contributor, Lee Laird, discusses the Japanese Ryoba Saw and how you can resharpen the rip teeth on the saw once they get dull, and the best type of feather files to use in order to do so.

This month our ‘Show Us’ columns include:

Charlie Bridges’ converted garage workshop in Hartsville, TN. The garage is 24×24, and he uses half to work on his cars, and the other half as his workshop.

Joseph Sanzano shares his shaker-style woodworking projects in this months Show Us Your Woodworking column.

Serge Jacob “Jacko” from Belgium is a mechanic for both the Belgian Air Force and the aerobatic team, The Belgian Red Devils, and he shares some of his aerobatic team inspired carvings in this months Show Us Your Carving column.

We’ve also got a variety of tips from our regular contributors including:

The Down to Earth Woodworker: Steve shares his review of the JDS 2100-CKV Dust Collector, a good use for a hockey puck, the new Down to Earth Woodworker section of the Highland Woodworking Library, and a project idea for making Pet Steps.

In our monthly Tips From Sticks in the Mud, Jim gives a tip on removing moisture from compressed air tanks, and the usefulness of quick disconnects.

Alan Noel gives us 6 tips on painting over finishes.

Chris Bagby, the owner of Highland Woodworking, answers a question on ‘the making of span trees.’

And lastly, we’ve got reviews on Christopher Schwarz’s book Handsaw Essentials, as well as a tool review on the Earlex HV5500 Spray Station.

All of this and more in our April 2014 issue of Wood News Online!

The post The April 2014 Issue of Wood News Online appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Furniture Details — Compass Seat Back Stiles

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 04/04/2014 - 11:32am

Furniture Details — Compass Seat Back Stiles

Lots of folks think that back in the day, good quality wood was in such great supply that the craftsmen gave little thought to its judicious use. I have the perfect example to show that they were not only frugal with their use of raw materials, but their time as well; Queen Anne compass- (or balloon-) seat chairs. The back legs (or stiles) extend from the floor to the crest […]

The post Furniture Details — Compass Seat Back Stiles appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Circular logic, Part I

James Watriss - Fri, 04/04/2014 - 10:57am
Things have been busy. It would have been great to get this series of posts out last month... preferably on Pi day (3/14/14) or just during last month, which was Pi month. (3rd month, of '14) Alas... c'est la guerre.

The top of my current project is curved. Most of the methods I've seen for cutting a radius involve driving a screw through the center, and using that as a pivot point. And that works well enough for many things. But in this case, it's a curved structural member, involving two different radii, one convex, one concave, and with two different centers. And that starts to get sticky. Added to that, I had this hair-brained idea of making a cut on the band saw, and a finish pass on the router table, to make for a smooth finished part. Lastly, I'm working with 12/4 stock, and the notion of just drilling a center through a beam that's wide enough to also contain the center, was just wasteful to the point of being dopey. So, I set out to untangle radiused cuts (inside and outside radii) on pieces that aren't wide enough to contain the pivot point.

The picture below is the starting point for the jig. As I said, most of the radius cutting that Ive seen involves driving a screw through the center of the curve, into a precisely placed hole that's the proper distance from the cutting action. But the screws are usually short, it's almost impossible sometimes to see where you're supposed to be driving it into... so I simplified things. The base mounts to the band saw table. And on top of that is a sliding dovetailed piece, to adjust for different radii, with two options for pivot centers: a removable pin that sticks up, to be used with a 1/4" hole, and a 1/4" brass shelf pin sleeve that serves as a bushing for a center that will be seen shortly. The pin started out as a 1/4-20 bolt that was only partially threaded. I cut it off, chucked it up in a hand drill, and domed the end with a bench grinder.

Making the cut on the band saw is as simple as I assumed it would be.

As I said, I also wanted to be able to make finishing passes on the router table. The jig below is a sliding mount for two more centers, as on the band saw. The idea is that I can set up whatever jig I'm going to use, and because the centers aren't drilled or driven into anything, I should be able to just move directly from the band saw to the router table.

Part of the problem with cutting an inside radius with the traditional screw-center method is that you only get one shot. After that, if the radius isn't quite big enough, you no longer have a center to work from, because you've removed the part being cut, from the center that was your reference point. I thought about using a simple jig that mounted to the center point, and to mount the blanks to that, but again, it seemed awkward. Eventually I came up with the idea of a scissoring pair of arms to mount to a blank, and the only problem I had then was that I'd cut right through the arms when I used it. So, I came up with this:

Again, 1/4" bolts cut off into pins. The pins slide through 1/4" holes in the hooked end, and into 1/4" holes in the blank. In this way, the pin can be removed to allow the blade to get in between the arms, and re-inserted before cutting. And the hooks are there to give clearance for the blade to exit the material without having to cut into the arms of the jig. And, the pin being used for the pivot point slides into the brass bushing in either the band saw, or the router table.

Coming up: laying out the mounting holes, using the jig to make a bending form, and a few other things...

To be continued.
Categories: General Woodworking

Greatest Hits (well, some of them)

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 04/04/2014 - 5:39am

During my recent trip to the Midwest for a variety of projects, including teaching the Parquetry Workshop for the Kansas City Woodworker’s Guild I was asked to present a public lecture at their facility Friday.  At their request, I reflected on the final decade in my career as Senior Furniture Conservator at the nation’s attic.  I tend not to obsess about the past, but it was a pleasant reminder of what a wonderful run I had there for almost three decades.  It was indeed an honor and privilege to contribute to the longevity of the aggregate cultural memory.

There was no way to include everything I did over a ten year span, but there were a number of projects about which I was especially pleased.  Ironically this particular menu included mostly projects for clients outside the Institution. The enthusiastic audience endured my fond reminiscences for almost two hours, then kept me captive with their queries for another hour before we all departed for the evening.  The KCWWG guys did seem to appreciate my 14-hour day on their behalf, since I was busy setting up the workshop before 8AM and wrapped up the evening’s festivities just before 10PM. In addition to the giant Chinese picture frame, which I included in the talk, and the Chinese pavilion model, which I did not include, I discussed these projects.  This posting is a necessarily brief account, mostly just the “Before” and “After” pictures; you will have to fill in the blanks rom your imagination or listen to me give a similar presentation some time somewhere.


First up was the artifact known as The Roosevelt Globe as it was Teddy Roosevelt’s when he was in Washington.  It currently reside sin the ceremonial Office of The Vice President.  The globe has suffered spoke damage during the fire at the Old Executive Office Building just before Christmas 2007.  The request for my services came directly from the Office of the Vice President of the United States (yes, my “client” was Dick Cheney, although i did not deal with him directly), not normally in my chain of reporting but our government relations office thought it would be a good idea for me to say “Yes.”


Here is a picture of the globe after I finished conserving it.


Next up was a cabinet by the French-born 19th century New York cabinetmaker Alexander Roux.   A gift to a Smithsonian museum, it needed a new base fabricated to reflect the original base — the original base had rotted off and been replaced poorly — so the project included  high-level woodworking and also designing and fabricating new bronze mounts that I cast in my home foundry.


This is the cabinet now on display in Washington DC.

Untitled-1 copy

A project prototype was the design and construction of minimally intrusive upholstery for this Victorian frame, which clearly needed a little TLC.

Untitled-2 copy

In the end we achieved a fully functional but also fully removable upholstery treatment that is a feast for the eyes and benign for the frame.  I hope to post the article about this one in the “Writings” section soon.


Another interesting project for a non-Institutional client was the finishing of a replica of the Daniel Webster Desk in the US Senate. Here is the original on the floor of the Senate, festooned with several of my sample-color panels.


The Senate cabinet shop built a remarkable copy of this desk, but requested the Senate Majority Leader to  invite me to execute the finishing of it.  I accepted in the invitation. and here is the result.


The final project I presented was conserving The Mace of the House of Representatives.  Next time you watch C-SPAN note it on the left side of the television screen.  Once again my client was extra-institutional, in this case The Speaker of the House.  C-SPAN made a segment for a documentary (the segment is in the second part), so everything was under the scrutiny of the camera.



After it was finished, I was photographed with it (as was my entire family) and I had the opportunity to shake the hand of The Speaker.  It’s pretty hard to top that one.

Like I said, it was a pretty remarkable three-decade-long run.

Mid 19th Century Danish Not So Modern

The Furniture Record - Thu, 04/03/2014 - 8:11pm

I saw this marble top stand at a local auction house today. Nothing all that unusual until you look at some of the details. Marble top is a little out of the ordinary. Being painted is different. I really can’t think of another painted stand in my library.

A nice little marble top stand.

A nice little marble top stand.

The back was also a bit different. There is usually some fairly nasty wood on the back of a piece at this level. Or at least not much effort expended making it nice. When I saw that the back on this one was a raised panel, I was impressed. Somebody actually cared.

Raised panel on the back is  not what I was expecting to see. I don't think the split is original.

Raised panel on the back is not what I was expecting to see. I don’t think the split is original.

Then I saw an old label that explains it all. It’s an import.

It's foreign. That explains the paint. And the funny writing style.

It’s foreign. That explains the paint. And the funny writing style.

Now if I can just figure out what these two stubs sticking out the back are for. I thought they might be an extension of the drawer runners. They are not. The stubs are not connected and only penetrate into the wood about 3/4″ of an inch.

Stubs of unknown purpose. Share if you had a thought.

Stubs of unknown purpose. Share if you have a thought.

Oh, I almost forgot. The dovetailed drawer picture. A crowd favorite.

You didn't think I forgot the drawer shot, did you?

You didn’t think I forgot the drawer shot, did you?

Since I am contractually obligated to provide a certain amount of content, I throw in this wall shelf at no additional cost. Consider it an encore.

Kinda different. I think it would make a great project for a magazine article. Megan? Sorta Arts & Crafts. Bob?

Kinda different. I think it would make a great project for a magazine article. Megan? Sorta Arts & Crafts. Bob?

Click on any image to see an enlarged view of that image.

Meet an Artisan Tree Carver in Virginia

Wood and Shop - Thu, 04/03/2014 - 2:32pm

Driving home today I saw something very unexpected in my Charlottesville, Virginia neighborhood: someone carving an artistic sculpture into a tree. Watch the above VIDEO to see him in action.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

I drove quickly to my house to grab my camera, and then returned to meet Don Charlebois and Marietta McCarty, the Author and Philosopher for whom Don was carving this natural art piece out of a dying Gum tree.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

I know, I know. This isn’t exactly traditional woodworking, but I love and appreciate all great art, and wanted to share it with my readers.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

Don is quite a facinating fellow with an interesting history. He graduated from the University of Virginia (just down the road) in political science with notable political scientist Larry Sabato. He met his wife in Switzerland, and has followed his passion for creating art from wood and also building beautiful custom cabinets and furniture.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

I didn’t get to spend enough time getting to know about Don’s history, but I’m sure there’s many more fascinating details, as with most people’s stories. I think it’s a good habit to slow down and meet people, and hear their story.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

Marietta was very proud of the work of art that was now adorning her visible yard. Right as she was showing me the before photo on her smartphone, she gasped, thinking that Don was falling from his makeshift scaffolding. Fortunately he was fine.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

I was enthralled watching Don expose the creative picture that was eminating from his mind’s eye.

©  Joshua T. Farnsworth

Because I’ve largely abandoned power tools, I had to brush wood chips off me for the first time in a long time! I hope you’ve enjoyed sharing this artistic experience with me!

Don Rosebrook, Tool Collector & Author

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 04/03/2014 - 9:05am

Don Rosebrook, Tool Collector & Author

Don Rosebrook, past-President of the Early American Industries Association (EAIA), a prominent member of the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association (M-WTCA) and author of “Wooden Plow Planes,” “American Levels and Their Makers” and “America Level Patents Illustrated and Explained,” died Monday following a brief illness. Carl Bilderback, a longtime friend of Don’s, said that in addition to his love for plow planes and levels, Don was an avid collector of high-end […]

The post Don Rosebrook, Tool Collector & Author appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

English Mortise Chisels - Mid-18th Century to Now - Introduction

Tools For Working Wood - Thu, 04/03/2014 - 4:00am

One day in the 1980's, when I studied woodworking with Maurice Fraser, I came to class for what was the first of a sequence of classes on chopping and fitting mortises and tenons. "Mortice" with a "C" being the English spelling and "mortise" with a "S" being the American spelling.
Maurice wanted us to use the correct tool for chopping a mortise. Which was an English Mortise Chisel. Not a sash mortise chisel, or a socketed mortise chisel, or millwright's chisel, or a registered chisel. An English Mortise Chisel. They were unlike any other chisels I had ever seen. The oval handles were comfortable, the chisel was built like a tank and could stand tons of abuse, the body of the chisel was trapezoidal in section so that they were easy to free in the mortise, they were available in 1/16" increments from 1/8" wide to 5/8" (actually more but the larger sizes are rare and not much used in cabinetry), and most important they were no longer made.

Like many students I assembled my set of mortise chisels (see above) over a period of several years via mail order and auction from various English tool dealers. Around 2002 or so, now involved professionally in ironmongery, Ray Iles and his brother Barry came to pay a visit. As the last generation of Sheffield apprentice trained edge tool makers they have forgotten considerably more on the subject of tools than I have ever known and I don't miss any chance to pick their brains.

"How about" I said as we were sitting in my living room thinking about dinner, "Making me some mortise chisels?". Ray looked at me with that look usually reserved for professors just before they decide to inform junior, who showed some promise earlier in the semester, that he will probably have to repeat the year.
"Seriously" I said "I can sell them, we can't get real ones over here!" After gently telling me that nobody had manufactured mortise chisels since at least the war and even before the war it might have been old stock, Ray, who loves a challenge, thought he would give it some thought.

A few discussions and about a year later a small box showed up on my doorstop with a sample. Mortise chisels aren't easy to make. It's a lot of steel and the huge bolster started out as a problem.
I asked Ray to make them out of D2 instead of regular steel because the edge would last forever and you didn't really need the sharpness of a paring chisel. This presented another set of problems which Ray had to solve, and Ray had to resurrect some of the old machinery he had to make oval handles.
When we finally released the mortise chisels into the American market it was a revelation to many of the people who used them. It fundamentally changed the market, and Ray has been struggling to keep the supply up ever since.

Aside from a D2 cutting edge the only substantial difference between Ray's Mortise chisels, and mortise chisels of the early 19th century is the under the handle Ray uses a square tang, rather than a tapered tang. The tang being a spike of metal that sticks out of the back of the chisel so that you can attach a handle(see picture).

Ray uses modern fixtures and specialized grinding machines to grind instead of doing it all by hand on a big wheel. The funny part about it, and the key that made Ray pretty sure he was going about it the right way is that he can see grinding marks on the old ones in the same places as on his.

It might be fun to take a close look at early 19th century mortise chisels and explore their engineering. Lots of this information applies to any handled edge tool not just mortise chisels, and we will end the series with instructions on how to handle a new chisel or replace the handle on any old chisel - it's a pretty simple task, and requires no special tools.

Note: At this moment we are out of some of the more popular sizes of mortise chisel. You can place an order anytime, Ray is working hard to make more for us and we should have them reasonably soon.

Note: Ray, Barry, and Tony Iles are all the sons of Ashley Iles, founder of Ashley Iles Edge Tools Ltd. the famous edge tool makers whose tools we stock. Ray left the company to start his own firm and his firm makes our mortise chisels and some other tools. Barry and Tony own and manage Ashely Iles, and they make a wide range of edge tools with a special focus on carving tools and turning tools. They are a very close family and Ray does work for Ashley Iles and vise versa. For a few short videos at their factories (along with a visit to Clico) click here.

Part two "What The Catalogs Tell Us" and part three "The Body of The Tool" will be available next week, and the balance of the series the week after.

More Secretaries Than You Can Shake a Stick At

The Furniture Record - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 6:33pm

Time to post this photo set and move on. This set was from the high-end auction house back in August of last year. I can’t remember if it was the quarterly catalog sale, but it was a good one. My last two blogs were from this auction and there’s still interesting stuff left. Like more secretaries. They might not all be technically secretaries but we’re all friends here.

Nice secretary with bookcase. Glass doors. Click to see the gallery.

Nice secretary with bookcase. Glass doors. Click to see the gallery.

For variety, here’s a slope front desk with solid doors on the bookcase.

Slope front with solid doors on the bookcase. Click to see the gallery.

Slope front with solid doors on the bookcase. Click to see the gallery.

And a gallery in a drawer with no bookcase.

No bookcase. Still nice, though.

No bookcase. Still nice, though.

The document drawers (tall thin ones) had an interesting decoration cut into the sides.

Nice touch on the document drawers. Click to see all 113 images from this auction.

Nice touch on the document drawers. Click to see all 113 images from this auction.

More stuff to see. Including the supervisor.

The supervisor.

The supervisor.

And there’s dovetails…

We’ll just put some bleachers out in the sun…

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 5:44pm

And have it on Highway 61.

Wooden Bowl Turning with Robin Wood

Yup – i’m going to Minnesota this June to meet Robin Wood & learn some bowl turning. Got my packet from North House yesterday.

If you’ve read my blog awhile, you know I’m a fan. If you’re just getting here, be sure to read Robin’s blog. His was the inspiration when I started mine back in 2008.

Great stuff. Well done & very thoughtful. http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-craft-blog/

The school looks to be a gas, I’ve heard great things about it. http://www.northhouse.org/

Won’t that be something.



One Spot Left in Saw Sharpening Class

The Logan Cabinet Shoppe - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 9:17am

There’s one space left in my upcoming hand saw sharpening class at the Woodcraft store in New Castle, DE. The class will cover the basics of sharpening western rip and crosscut saws. The class will be held on Sunday, April 13, 2014 from 12:30-3:30 pm. The cost of the class is $65. You can register for the class by calling the store at (302) 323-0400 or by emailing wilmington-retail@woodcraft.com.


I’ll be calling all of the folks who have already registered to touch base on what to bring for the class, but for those who read the blog and want to get a head start, here’s what I’m recommending:

  • A 5 to 6 PPI rip saw (make sure it’s rust free before the class)
  • A 7 to 8 PPI crosscut saw (make sure it’s rust free before the class)
  • A 6″ to 14″ flat bastard mil file
  • One or two 7″ slim taper saw files (for sharpening the rip saw)
  • One or two 6″ slim taper saw files (for sharpening the crosscut saw)
  • Handles for each file
  • If you have a saw set, feel free to bring it. If you don’t have one, don’t buy one for the class.
  • A 2′ steel rule or a steel or wooden straight edge if you have one. Don’t buy one if you don’t.

I will have some extra saw files (no mil files) with me that could be purchassed from me for $5 apiece if you are not able to procure the necessary files ahead of time. The store will also have a small supply of files available that are properly sized for the 7-8 PPI crosscut saw. However, I won’t likely have enough extra to sell files to everyone in the class. So I highly recommend getting these files before the class if you can.

Thanks to those folks who have already registered! It’s shaping up to be a good class!

Update: Magnetic-mount LED Work Light Review

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 8:27am

 Magnetic-mount LED Work Light Review

In the April 2014 issue, I reviewed the Magnetic-mount LED Work Light that’s carried by Lee Valley Tools (click here if you wish to read the review). I had only one complaint – and it was that my rechargeable batteries didn’t fit, and that non-rechargeable batteries lasted on average only five hours – so I use this otherwise excellent light sparingly. On Twitter (where you can find me @1snugthejoiner), a […]

The post Update: Magnetic-mount LED Work Light Review appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

I'll drink to that...

Rundell & Rundell - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 7:16am
Since the Lost Trades Fair a few weeks back we've run a few stool making courses in the workshop, including our first 4 legged Bar Stool course.

Clinton and Craig were both great to have in the workshop and over the four days ended up getting on like a house on fire, even bringing their finished barstools into the bar on the Thursday afternoon for a 'test run.'

They also used a bit artistic licence in the shaping of the foot rest, Craig choosing a convex curve and Clinton concave. After seeing both together I'm still undecided on which I prefer. A good rectangular mortise and tenon ensuring the foot rests will never wrack and become loose.

Unlike the 'T' stretcher system of the Perch, the Bar Stool uses a 'box' stretcher setup, which although looking fairly straight forward does require a little more exacting marking out and accurate drilling, as being out by as little as a degree or so can throw the stretcher considerably out of line with the corresponding leg. No such issue this time around though, which was great.

The following week saw Trevor, Adrian and Evan in the shop to make a Perch each. Again, 3 great guys and 3 very nice finished products. …. Coincidently I think one of the Perches made it into the bar for a test drive too. Is there a trend beginning here?!

In between courses and finishing off a rocking chair I've been back out at the house with Pete, fitting the weatherboards and our new casement windows.

The top half boards are not yet oiled with 'Organoil' marine grade Tung oil.

I know, the blue sisalation paper is not a good look, but you can start to get a feel for how it's going to look. I'm folding up some metal flashings for the tops of the windows tomorrow night, then Friday we can finish cladding up to the roof line and fit the fascia.

The windows are a credit to Davies Joinery in Maryborough who made them, despite them taking a little longer to arrive than expected. We looked around for a good while to find someone who could still make the windows with the fine dividers or muntins, to match the original windows.

 At 16mm or 5/8" they are quite fine and not many joiners will make them anymore. Painting those muntins on the other hand is a pain in the… muntin, but it will be worth it in the end.

There's a few changes in stall for the workshop too ( aside from cleaning it ) but there's more to come on that note soon…. Cheers.
Categories: General Woodworking

Auburn Tool Co. #12 Hollow – $25

The Logan Cabinet Shoppe - Wed, 04/02/2014 - 4:56am

This plane isn’t pretty, but it’s perfectly functional. When I got it, it had some bug damage along side the mouth. The critters were long gone, but the mouth had some damage. So I had to remove the damaged area and put in a beech patch. You can see the patch at the front of the mouth on the escapement side. Like I said, it’s not the prettiest, but the plane still works very well. The sole has been conditioned to the proper radius (7/8″ for this particular plane), the iron has been reshaped to match the sole profile and has been sharpened. Everything is ready to go to work. $25 plus shipping, and I’ll throw in a few snail countersink bits as well. As usual, first comment to say I’ll take it gets it.








Roubo Spoof – FABULOUS!

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 04/01/2014 - 6:03pm

Lee Valley spent a lot of time and energy  to create this April Fools treatment of Roubo on their web catalog.  It is fabulous!  Seriously.

 They even got in a sly crack at Studley.  Bravo!
I am indeed honored.

Before I go…

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Tue, 04/01/2014 - 4:23pm

Before I go, I would like to say; Buy good tools. Build whatever you want. Be proud of what you make. Have fun. Don’t listen to narrow minds. Keep your own mind open. Read good books. Live for the present. Speak your mind. Don’t be afraid to speak your mind. Don’t take shit from anybody. Don’t be afraid to get into a fight, and if you do, land the first punch. Sweep the leg. Do it for Johnny! Do pushups. Do your job. Be good at your job. Keep your chisels sharpened. Question authority. Be honest. Have integrity. Have morals. Be true to yourself. Don’t be a phony. Don’t be kiss-ass. Don’t be a suck-up. Take care of your family. Love your wife/husband. Love your kids. Be happy. Enjoy what you are doing. Avoid people that keep you from enjoying what you do. Have good manners. Be polite. Be firm. Mean what you say. Say what you mean, and leave no misunderstandings. And, don’t be afraid to stir the pot sometimes; If you don’t, everything ends up getting stuck together.


Categories: General Woodworking

Before I go…

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Tue, 04/01/2014 - 4:23pm

Before I go, I would like to say; Buy good tools. Build whatever you want. Be proud of what you make. Have fun. Don’t listen to narrow minds. Keep your own mind open. Read good books. Live for the present. Speak your mind. Don’t be afraid to speak your mind. Don’t take shit from anybody. Don’t be afraid to get into a fight, and if you do, land the first punch. Sweep the leg. Do it for Johnny! Do pushups. Do your job. Be good at your job. Keep your chisels sharpened. Question authority. Be honest. Have integrity. Have morals. Be true to yourself. Don’t be a phony. Don’t be kiss-ass. Don’t be a suck-up. Take care of your family. Love your wife/husband. Love your kids. Be happy. Enjoy what you are doing. Avoid people that keep you from enjoying what you do. Have good manners. Be polite. Be firm. Mean what you say. Say what you mean, and leave no misunderstandings. And, don’t be afraid to stir the pot sometimes; If you don’t, everything ends up getting stuck together.


Categories: General Woodworking


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by Dr. Radut