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Essential Reading: ‘The Art & Craft of Cabinet-Making’

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 4:06am

denning_opener_IMG_8351

We don’t know much about David Denning except that he wrote four books about woodworking in the late 19th century, was traditionally trained and had strong opinions about the craft. After reading his 1891 classic “The Art & Craft of Cabinet-Making” many times, I imagine he was a Frank Klausz-like character: He knew his stuff and was happy to let the world know his opinions.

Here’s his opinion on antique furniture: “I assert that it is almost impossible to obtain a really genuine unspoiled piece of oak furniture which has (not) had the misfortune to pass through the hands of a dealer or restorer.” Their work is, generally, “not honest.”

Denning disliked iron planes, calling them “toy-like” and “not used by the practical artisan.”

And unlike many other writers, Denning embraced the use of machines in conjunction with hand tools. On the jack plane he said there is “little occasion for it” when machinery is available. And so the planing can begin with “the trying or even the smoothing plane.”

In other words, Denning sat on the precipice between hand tools and machinery in the late 19th century. Unlike other writers, Denning refused to endorse machines as the end-all, and he swerved wildly away from the Luddite path. Denning was, in many ways, like the modern woodworker who has both options available and can make the most of them.

Because of this particular viewpoint, I consider “The Art & Craft of Cabinet-Making” a classic. The book is a thorough explanation of quality furniture making during the Victorian era. Denning covers tools, workshop appliances, joints, assemblies, veneering and installing hardware in excellent detail. He also covers all the major furniture forms of the time and explains how to make them well (and how others make them poorly).

“The Art & Craft of Cabinet-Making” is available on the antique market or in “print on demand” format, a paperback version where the pages are glued together, not sewn.

I am pleased to say that Popular Woodworking Magazine has done a limited press run of the book and it’s a quality job. It’s printed in the U.S. The binding is both sewn and glued. The hardcovers are cloth-wrapped. The price is only $36, which includes domestic shipping.

You can order a copy here. Do not tarry as there is no guarantee they will do a second press run.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Personal Favorites, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

a minor set back......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 06/21/2017 - 12:41am
The humidity is keeping up with the Jones but the heat isn't too bad. Summer starts tomorrow with the solstice happening at 1224 (AM) EDT. With the humidity we have had already and the weather being out of whack world wide, I think we are in for a toasty summer. My cats are a good indication of what is going on because they become more and more sedentary and sleep more with increasing heat and humidity. They eat less but they don't neglect keeping up the deposits in the litter box.

one coat
 The yoke slips over the groove in the adjuster knob freely. I feel that if I put on another coat that it could be too much. I'm not sure how long this paint will last once the plane is back together and in use.

one more here
There is a smudge by my finger and another on the bottom seat. One more coat on here will take care of them and be ok for the rest. Tomorrow I'll strip the painters tape off the front and touch up the spots there.

layout for the new shelf pin pockets
These aren't really needed because the frame will be in front of the shelf keeping it from coming forward. That is what the purpose of these pin sockets are for. Sounds a bit redundant.


the length isn't critical, the width is
I just thought of not having to do this as I was completing the layout. I put this aside after I did the layout and I'll think on whether or not to chop new shelf pin sockets.

tale of two drill bits
I have to clean out the holes I drilled and then painted over. The bit on the left is great for drilling a clean hole with a flat bottom. The one on the right will be used for cleaning the paint out of the holes.

not too too bad   this is the worse one
The holes look relatively clean considering how many coats of paint I put on the interior.

hand drill excels at this
You could use a powered hand drill (and I have) but the hand drill allows for a slower start and less chance of having the drill dancing all over the interior. You place the drill over the hole and turn the bit in reverse. This cleans up the top of the hole and registers the bit dead center on the hole. Once the hole top rim is established again, run the drill forward and all the paint comes out.

set the bit on what is there
Don't go nutso trying to center the bit because you can't see the outer rim of the hole. Running the bit in reverse cleans the rim and bit drops into the hole, centered.

turned in reverse a couple of turns
going forward
Most of the paint comes out now and you have a nice clean hole again.

two cleaned holes on the left and holes to be cleaned on the right
doing the back wall holes
I had to remove the side handle and I still had room between the wall and the drill. Going in reverse wasn't a problem but going forward was. The drill wanted to twist to the right and bang into the back wall. It was awkward holding the top of drill with basically my fingertips and stopping that from happening.

almost had a blow out
This surprised me because I used a depth stop to drill all the holes 5/16" deep in 3/4" thick stock. As soon as I saw wood with the drill I stopped. Guess I didn't stop quick enough on this hole.

tweezers
The drill didn't pull out everything. What was left behind I was able to get with the tweezers.

no blowouts or partial ones on the second side
the minor setback
The plan was to scrape the interior, sand it, vacuum it, and apply the first of two cots of water based poly. I got the scraping and vacuuming done. I'll have to paint parts of the interior again because the scraper pulled a blob of paint off. Along with the surprise from the scraper, I left smudges and dirty finger marks all over the interior. I'll have to get some gloves so I don't dirty this up again.

the last time painting (maybe)
I did the sides and got paint in most of the freshly cleaned holes so I'll be doing the hand drill dance steps again. I also painted the top and bottom to cover my smudges but I didn't paint the back. We'll see what shakes out tomorrow with this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Maine is the most heavily forested US state. Who is in tenth place?
answer - North Carolina


The Blacksmith Shop of Mt Vernon

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 6:52pm

Spending some time in Washington DC last week, my wife and I went to Mt. Vernon to visit George Washington’s estate. After we bought our tickets to the view of the house, we had some time to kill, so we walked around the grounds to see what else was around.

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On the right side of the estate near the near the back, was the blacksmith shop. It appeared to be about 15′ x 20′ in size.

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We arrived in front and saw one of the blacksmiths making a large hinge. You can see how soaked his shirt is as it was nearly 90 degrees that day. He must lose twenty pounds during the summer working in there.

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Here’s a shot of the bench with a scrap iron on the ground waiting for use.

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Here are some of the items the blacksmiths make at the estate. What’s really cool is they make axe heads and other tools.

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On the side of the shop sat a bin full of coal which stank to high heaven. The smell of burning coal is not a pleasant thing.

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I looked around the other buildings for a carpentry or cabinet shop, but found nothing. I find it odd that Washington didn’t have one on his estate somewhere. The only thing I saw was display case inside the museum with this panel raising plane.

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HP-14 Scraper Plane Details from Bridge City Tool Works…

Bridge City Tools - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 4:25pm

Drivel Starved Nation!

I received lots of great questions regarding our Hp-14 Scraper Plane and will attempt to answer them here in this Totally Awesome and Worthless Blog!

Before I answer them, here are a couple of pics of the final design. The pre-order window will open this week and we will make this in two versions, the HP-14 Scraper Plane, and the HP-14 SS Scraper Plane. The later features stainless steel sides as opposed to champagne anodized aluminum and we will only make the SS version once…

HP14 Aluminum with Logo Final 700

HP14 SS Side Profile on Gray 700

HP14 SS 700

This is a really cool tool and we are excited to get going on it!

Now for the questions…

Q. What is the HP-12?

A. It is a tool that will be announced later this year. It’s been sitting “in the can” for almost 2 years now. I have been busy on some other things that has kept us from releasing it.

Q. What is the HP-13?
A. I don’t know… 13 is an unlucky number so it may never exist.

Q. Is the iron crowned?
A. No, and you don’t want it crowned, a scraper plane is designed to make a s linear scrape in wild wood, or in cases where you know you are going to sand the surface after scraping. (You should be able to start with 220 grit after using the HP-14)

Q. Is there a way to “bow” the blade like a cabinet scraper?
A. No, see answer above.

Q. What is the width of the iron?
A. Approximately 51mm.

Q. What is the steel of the iron and hardness of the iron?
A. A2 tool steel hardened to 48-50 Rc.

Q. What is the factory grind of the iron and how thick is it?
A. 45 degrees and it is approximately 2.4mm thick.

Q. Will the HP-14 come with a burnisher?
A. No. (we use the shank of a screw driver)

Q. Will the HP-14 come with depth skids?
A. No. There is no use for skids on this type of plane.

Q. How do you know when the iron gets dull?
A. Oh, you will know. You go from consistent shavings to dust. Dust is not good.

Q. Does the iron get how like a cabinet scraper.
A. Yes, but your hands are far removed from the edge so it is not a concern.

Q. How thick is the sole?
A. Approximately 8mm

Q. Do I need to worry about the sides coming off because of those little black screws?
A. No. The sides are actually press fitted to the sole via metal dowel pins. The screws are insurance and add an industrial aesthetic that I like.

That’s the Q and A so far.

To set up the tool, set it on a flat surface. Pitch the frog at approximately a 60 degree angle and lock in place. Next, you insert the iron (after rolling a hook and with the bevel facing the rear tote) and allow it to seat against the flat surface. We recommend pressing down on the iron firmly while tightening the cap screw. This typically creates a minute protrusion of the hook. Make a test cut.

There is not a depth adjustor on scraper planes, so if you are not getting shavings, either the hook is incorrect or the iron is not protruding from the bottom of the sole. If the latter is the case, repeat the set-up process mentioned above but shim the bottom of the plane off the bench surface with two pieces of thin paper.

When properly set-up, you should get shavings (as opposed to dust) 99.99 per cent of the time REGARDLESS of grain direction. Scraper planes are a must-have tool for serious makers and we think the HP-14 Scraper Plane will exceed your expectations and those of your heirs for generations to come.

The rear tote is a tour-de-force of tool making craftsmanship. Investment cast stainless steel, the tote is polished to a mirror finish and the interior cavities are powder coated jet-black. Lastly, the sides are grained and the tote is fastened to the sole via two stainless steel cap screws.

We think the HP-14 is a real head turner that will make wood grain shake in fear! Pre-order email will arrive sometime later this week.

-John

The post HP-14 Scraper Plane Details from Bridge City Tool Works… appeared first on John's Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

The Galbert Caliper and my Pigheadedness

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 1:46pm

I don’t care for gizmos, jigs and silly accessories. So even though I spend a fair amount of time on the lathe, I resisted purchasing the Galbert Caliper for many years. In its place, I used go/no-go gauges, box wrenches and traditional turning calipers (which are the worst). But while at Handworks this year, I broke down and gave Peter $60 for a Galbert Caliper. Today I put it to […]

The post The Galbert Caliper and my Pigheadedness appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

#WhyIMake: What’s Your Story?

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 11:27am
why i make slices of zen

Among the goals of the #WhyIMake campaign (from infosys.org) is to inspire people to make things with their hands, to spread the importance of maker skills and to share resources for doing so. It began as a foundation aimed toward encouraging children and K-12 educators of underrepresented groups, and has grown into a celebration of the maker movement at large. Among well-known people with whom the foundation has partnered to get out the message are […]

The post #WhyIMake: What’s Your Story? appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Winner(s): Ridiculous Woodworking Books

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 8:49am
Ridiculous Books cover winner

Y’all are funny – picking the winner of the Ridiculous Woodworking Books contest was a difficult task. But I had to choose a winner, so…I chose two. Each of the winners gets a copy of our reprint of David Denning’s “The Art and Craft of Cabinet-Making.” One is Wittefish’s birdhouse homage to one of my favorite books, “Go the F**k to Sleep,” by Adam Mansbach, illustrated by Ricardo Cortes – of which […]

The post Winner(s): Ridiculous Woodworking Books appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Online SketchUp Training-Free Practice Sessions

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 6:34am
I’m getting closer to offering a series of live online classes for using SketchUp in a variety of situations. Before I do that, I want to test the online platform and I could use your help. I have two sessions … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking

Ripplin’ 3

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 6:29am

With the “proof of concept” established for the first ripple molding cutter it was time to launch into Model #2.  I had my own ideas about its configuration and welcomed similar thoughts from all the others.

 

Our first step was to install the 8-foot thread screw which was the driver for the moving cutter-head to go up and down the rails.  While Travis and John were working on the rails/frame Sharon was drilling and tapping the lignum vitae “bolt” that was attached to the underside of the cutterhead carriage.

In short order we had as assembly with a set of tracks for the cutterhead to ride on, and a platform for the cutterhead centered in the frame.  The error in this concept became readily apparent once we started to lay out the bed for the workpiece and the cutter head itself.  There simply was not enough room for everything to fit there.

Back to the drawing board, which we flogged constantly throughout the week.

In short order we determined that an off-center location for the drive screw was going to work just fine and once again we were off and running.

While this was ongoing Sharon got the bug to make a new cutting iron to match one of the samples she found most fetching.

Meanwhile I was attending to a problem that became apparent when we were trying to get things working — the legs needed to be splayed in both directions, so I spent some time re-cutting the shoulders of the legs.

With that we were looking forward with excitement to making the new machine run like a champ.

Shaw’s (re)Patent

Je ne sai quoi Woodworking - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 5:50am

25/5/2017

One day in May while sitting in my shop at the end of a long day sipping usquebaugh I found myself staring at this so-called Shaw’s Patent no. 5 Jack plane of mine. It is the Jack plane that I use for heavy stock removal, which means it ends up on the receiving end of some significant elbow grease. As a result, the plane tends to reciprocate the well intended elbow grease with fervent vesication of that part of my hand that flirts with the ribbed edge of the main casting.  It got me thinking that the plane could possibly be modified to amend this particular quirk.

You can read a post on how I restored it when I initially got my discombobulated mitts on it.

As you can see here, the slight design glitch with this Sargent plane is twofold. There is a lot of wasted space between the top of the tote and the lateral adjuster. Also the bottom end of the tote slopes downwards, which has the effect that the side of one’s hand tends to end up on the rib of the main casting. Thus a combinations of these two inadequacies coerce the hand of the user into a position much lower than what is needed.

As you can see in the example below, the bottom part of the tote on this Lie-Nielsen low angle Jack plane does not slope down, but runs parallel to the sole of the plane. This design element stops the hand from sliding down too far. I thought that the Shaw’s Patent could benefit from a tote that employs the same strategy. Together with that I could utilize the dead space between the top of the tote and the lateral adjuster by lengthening the tote, which would also aid the user’s hand to ride higher.

I found a piece of Kaapse Swarthout, that would not suffice for any other purpose. This is by far my favourite indigenous species for producing totes.

It was quite a mission to fashion a tote that would fit the plane and at the same time tick the desired design tweaks. I used a combination of the original tote, the Lie-Nielsen tote, and documents on Stanley totes to accomplish the task.

The final product looks like this. You can see how the top of the tote is now much closer to the lateral lever and the bottom of it has a parallel section to hold the user’s hand up. Another neat little trick I discovered is to cut a leather washer to sit between the sole of the tote and the main casting. It makes a huge difference to the feel of the plane when using it. The difference is hard to explain, but try it and you will know what I mean.

The changes to the tote also necessitated a tweak to the length of the tote bolt. Unfortunately it is a change in the more challenging direction i.e. making it longer.

While I was at it I also changed the knob. I prefer a flat section at the top of the knob for my thumb when gripping the front end of the plane with the rest of my fingers on the sole acting as a fence.

The final adjustment I made was to file down the part of the rib in question by about 1 mm and rounded it. After all that the Shaw’s (re)Patent works like a dream. If you prefer woodworking rather than tool tweaking, I suggest that it might be better to buy a Lie-Nielsen plane from the start.

Hide-Away Furniture

360 WoodWorking - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 5:45am
Hide-Away Furniture

Two years ago this month, I posted a blog about transforming furniture; pieces that open and expand to become more functional and look way more ominous. This table, while not a true transformer, fits more into the Hide-away furniture category.

As I walked through a local antique mall – generally that means junk shop, but there are occasional nuggets to be discovered – I ran across a chunky table. Yes, there are hinges at the middle of its top.

Continue reading Hide-Away Furniture at 360 WoodWorking.

How to Keep Kids From Wasting Sandpaper – Part 2

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 5:00am

Two years ago, I built a jig to help me cut sandpaper sheets into a few different practical sizes for our classroom. The sizes that we use are eighths, quarters (long strips) and half sheets. The eighths pieces are very useful for hand sanding and for working small to medium sized projects. We mount the long quarter sheet on our beloved Preppin sanding blocks, and the half sheet is useful […]

The post How to Keep Kids From Wasting Sandpaper – Part 2 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Variations on a theme

Giant Cypress - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 3:48am

Here are two planes that are designed to do the same thing: cut a 3/4″ groove into a piece of wood. Both of them are designed to cut across the grain, as they have nickers for scoring the wood. But the implementation of the nickers is quite different between the two planes.

This a closeup of the bottom plane. You can see the nicker on the left, which will score the wood ahead of the cutting blade and the chipbreaker. There’s a matching nicker on the opposite side. This arrangement of a pair of nickers ahead of the cutting blade is pretty common in Japanese planes that are used to cut across the grain.

This is a closeup of the top plane. Here it might look like the cutting blade is on the bottom and a chipbreaker that is advanced too far is on the top, but something else is happening here. What looks like the chipbreaker are actually nickers.

This is the complete assembly of the cutting blade, a pair of nickers that rest directly on the cutting blade, and a chipbreaker that fits between the nickers.

Close up of the business end. Here you can see more clearly how the nickers protrude past the main cutting blade.

Here are the separate parts. From the top, the chipbreaker, the nickers, and the cutting blade.

Clearly, the manufacturer of this plane went to a lot of trouble. Not only are the nickers more trouble to manufacture than a pair of separate nickers, but the nickers are held together with a pin so that they can pivot like a pair of scissors.

I have no idea why anyone would go to the trouble of making a plane with nickers in this fashion. In the years that I’ve been looking at Japanese planes, I have never seen one with this sort of nicker/blade set up. But it is cool. Maybe it just goes to show that there’s always someone in woodworking that’s looking to come up with a different way of doing things, and that just like in western woodworking, there isn’t a single way of doing Japanese woodworking.

the last day........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 12:54am
I feel like a condemned man awaiting his last meal. Tonight is the last time I'll see my grandson until maybe xmas. Him and his mother are flying back to North Carolina tomorrow so I'll have to get by with the pics she emails me. By the time I get home tomorrow there will be nothing but an empty crib and high chair to remind me of him.

I had to go back to the shop tonight and reshoot my pics.  It seems you can shoot as many pics as you want without a sim card. The camera doesn't give a warning that there isn't one installed. There was only shot I couldn't get again so it wasn't too bad.

done
This is the pic I couldn't get again - the one before I painted them. There was no joy when I looked at the shelves tonight. I could still see some streaks of the gray primer through the white. The bottom was worse than the top. I put on the final coat of white on the top and bottom. The front  ledger strip is getting painted a different color so I could rest the shelves on that while they dried.

I am not painting these anymore. This is the last coat I am putting on the shelves. Period. And I am thinking of going to back to oil based paint because it hides better and covers better than latex does. This final statement doesn't apply to the exterior of the bookcase. However, I'm betting the ranch that it will take the same 3 coats to cover.


painted the frog
If I do anymore of these rehabs, I'll be brushing the black paint on. I like using the brush over spraying.

yoke painted too
My fingers didn't get too much paint on them doing this. I had to hold it while I painted one half of it. I tried to brush it hanging on the wire and got nowhere with that.

one coat?
Both ends of the yoke have wear points to consider. The forked end fits in a groove on the adjuster knob and too much paint build up may cause binding. The other end with the tab lowers and raises the iron/chipbreaker. I will check the forked part on the adjuster knob tomorrow and gauge how paint build up I have to deal with.

still working
This is a cheapo brush as you can tell by the stamped ferrule. However, the brush part is working very well on the plane parts. I'm surprised that is has lasted this long and it still has a lot of life left in it.

from Wally World $4.95
With tax the ten brushes came to about 53 cents each. There are a few small thin brushes in there that I'll use it to paint some of the tight areas on the frog face around the lateral adjust lever.

Time to go spend a little time with Myles before he goes to bed for the night.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What auto maker made the first armored tanks used by US troops in battle during WWI (september 1918)?
answer - French auto maker Renault no american made tanks were used in WWI

Wood Auction This Friday

David Barron Furniture - Tue, 06/20/2017 - 12:10am

There is an a large workshop clearance auction this Friday 23rd June at Ewbanks Auction House in Guildford. Above is a large board of Cuban Mahogany. You ca view the full catalogue here.
https://www.ewbankauctions.co.uk/index.php?option=com_bidders&auction_id=375


Lots of veneer in thick as well as thin, ideal for restoration.


Some lovely true Lignum Vitae.


 A very nice board of Indian rosewood and below a very rare log of Brazilian kingwood, beautiful stuff! I have resisted the temptation to attend, I have enough wood to last a lifetime, or more!


Categories: Hand Tools

Plane Correction Update

Journeyman's Journal - Mon, 06/19/2017 - 4:04pm

I posted previously a plan for 1 1/8″  hollow and round plan, I realised I made a mistake on the arc and have corrected it.  I was 1° off, my apologies for that, so those who downloaded it scrap it and download this version.

15 hollow A3 Imperial

15 round A3 Imperial


Categories: Hand Tools

Hickory Bark

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Mon, 06/19/2017 - 3:16pm

Post-Greenwood Fest – finally getting going. I have a few spoons, some copies of the Joint Stool book and a few DVDs left for sale. Here’s the link – https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/june-2017-spoons-book-videos-for-sale/

There’s Paypal buttons for the books & DVDs, if you want a spoon, leave me a comment.

———————-

Meanwhile – Hickory Bark. No waiting when there’s a hickory sapling cut in the spring. You gotta get right to them. So two of these were first priority once I unpacked.

This work takes me way back. Way, way, way, way back as Van Morrison would say. I grabbed the leftover hickory saplings after Tim Manney’s demo at Greenwood Fest (one got stripped before I got to saving it – Tim? Pete?) to harvest the bark. I’ve only have a few chances to strip hickory bark in the past many years. Not making chairs or baskets with any regularity meant I didn’t need to pursue it. But, these were right there, and I have some ladderbacks underway, as well as some baskets that need rims & handles.

First off, I shave the outer bark off with the drawknife. This is thick, hard crusty bark.


Here is a detail, showing as I shave off the outer bark, the inner bark we’re after is exposed. In this photo, the first strip is removed. That way, I can see the thickness of the inner bark (or “bast”) – this becomes important.

so next is the task of thinning the inner bark to the appropriate thickness. This is a finesse move. Below the drawknife here (bottom left of the photo) the bark is just about the right thickness – above the knife you can see the yellow/orange striations – I use those as a visual guideline – shave them away & you’re there. Just about.

Then I score through the inner bark down to the wood with the tip of my knife. I make the strip about 3/4″ – 1″ wide.

It can wiggle with the grain of the tree…try to keep it pretty straight. But they are wider than I’ll use them, so I can trim them some when I get to weaving with them.

Then peel the strip up. Never ceases to amaze me.

 

I keep close watch for stray fibers that might stick to the tree. Usually means the scoring wasn’t deep enough. You can slip your knife under there & re-establish the peeling. 

Some strips are too thick when you take ’em off the tree. You can sometimes split them apart. I scored across the bark to form a tab, then pulled them apart. This is slow, careful work – you have to watch to see if it’s going evenly. Any thick side, pull towards it. Just like riving. I hold the strip between my knees, then use my thumbs & forefingers to peel them. My other fingers help keep things peeling evenly.

If a strip is too thick, but not thick enough to split, I put it on the shaving horse, and shave it with a spokeshave. I put a support stick under it. You can shave this later, once you’re using the material – but I find it best to do it right off the bat.

Coil ’em & store to dry in an airy place.

The first log was clear enough for some long riving & bending wood. I made some basket rims, then shaved two of these bows for firewood carriers. This one is shaved to shape, steamed & bent onto this form. I took no pictures of any of that. I shoot my own photos, and steam-bending requires complete attention. This firewood carrier is detailed in Drew Langsner’s Green Woodworking – as is peeling hickory bark.

The base will be an open framework,  this board is just the drying form for the bend.


Milling Live-Sawn Lumber

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 06/19/2017 - 1:02pm
milling livesawn lumber

Lumber from large commercial suppliers typically comes with straight-sawn edges. But when you saw your own logs or buy from smaller outfits, you have to find your way along the live edges and around the defects to get the best yield from a board. Or maybe I shouldn’t say you “have to”; a happier way of thinking about live-sawn lumber is to realize that it affords creative, structural and aesthetic […]

The post Milling Live-Sawn Lumber appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Announcements About the Lie-Nielsen Open House

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 06/19/2017 - 12:49pm

black_stool3_IMG_4551

I’ve been asked to make the keynote address at the Lie-Nielsen Open House on July 7-8 and also will give a lecture and demonstration on “Finishing With Fire” and showing how to do it with furniture components.

For the keynote, my topic is titled “The Hand Tool Backlash,” and I’ve been working on it for several weeks now. Previous keynote speakers, such as Peter Follansbee and Roy Underhill, have made such amazing speeches at the Open House that fair ladies fainted and the sick were healed.

Though I’m no professional speaker, I vow to give it my best. (Actually, nothing can best my story about my first colonoscopy. And as I probably shouldn’t tell that particular story, this will be my second best.)

Finishing With Fire
For my demonstration at 3 p.m. Friday, I’ll be assembling and finishing one of my three-legged stools with a gas torch and a mixture of linseed oil and beeswax. I’ve been experimenting with this finish for several years now and have figured out how to make it really easy, even for fire-fearing scarecrows.

Also, I’ll be happy to sell the completed stool to anyone planning to attend. These stools are $175 and are made from Southern yellow pine. I’ll be happy to customize the stool for your height on the spot. If you’d like the stool, send a note to help@lostartpress.com, and I’ll reserve it for you.

LN_follansbee_work_IMG_0028

About the Event
The Lie-Nielsen Open House is a fantastic family event with lots of demonstrators, toolmakers and food. In addition to me, other demonstrators include Christian Becksvoort, Danielle Rose Byrd, Phil Lowe, Peter Follansbee and Peter Galbert.

Also attending: Megan Fitzpatrick of Popular Woodworking Magazine, planemaker Matt Bickford, Tico Vogt of Vogt Toolworks, Isaac Smith of Black Burn Tools, Joshua Klein of Mortise & Tenon Magazine, furniture maker Freddy Roman, miniature maker Marco Terenzi, Kenneth Kortemeier of the Maine Coast Craft School, chairmaker and toolmaker Tim Manney, Mason McBrien from the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship, planemaker Scott Meek, Bob Van Dyke from the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking, planemaker Dan Schwank, saw sharpener Matt Cianci, Wes Sutherland from the Guild of Maine Woodworkers, bowmaker Stim Wilcox, Rory Wood from Rare Woods, boat maker Kevin Carney, Steve Branam from the Close Grain School of Woodworking, Chris Kuehn of Sterling Toolworks and Travis Knapp of RareWoods.us.

Whew, that’s the longest list of vendors I’ve ever seen at the Open House. Should be great.

Note, I won’t be bringing any Lost Art Press books or Crucible tools with me. But Lie-Nielsen carries almost our entire line and those will be available for purchase at the event. As always, I am happy to sign your books (or anything else you put in front of me).

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Here are some Asians who rock covering AC/DC’s “Back in...

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Here are some Asians who rock covering AC/DC’s “Back in Black” to start your week. Bonus: a vocal performance that rivals any metal band I can think of.

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