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lost one, won one........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 3:58pm
This past weekend I did a dry fit of the portable saw till and I wasn't too happy with it. The sides were cupped as were the ends but the long sides were worse. I got the box partially clamped but I didn't remove all of the cupping and seat the joints. The problem I was facing was flushing the top and bottom so I could then run my 6mm grooves.

If I couldn't do the flushing, I would have to come up with an alternative top and bottom. I have way too many calories invested in this to call it quits. What I came up with was gluing the till up as best I could without plowing any grooves in it. Once the joints had set I would glue and screw a piece of 6mm plywood on the top and bottom.

To hide the piles of the plywood edges I would plane a shallow rabbet all around the top and bottom edges. Gluing a piece of thin pine in the rabbet would hide the plywood edges and dress it up a bit.

the loss
This side doesn't look too bad. I could probably scrape and sand the proud areas even.

this side is ugly
Both the top and bottom pieces shifted on me. The horn also has a big divot that I hadn't noticed when I glued this. I don't want to use this on my #6 and I'll toss this in with my other spare plane parts. I ordered another knob and tote and I should have it by this weekend. Fingers are crossed on that.

cleaning up the inside of the till
this looks damn good as is
Almost all of the cup is clamped out and I didn't even use any cauls. I also didn't clamp the short sides.

the other end looks good too
This is very encouraging and I think I can skip gluing the panels on the outside top and bottom.

within a 16th of being square

figured it out
I put a caul on both ends on both ends so that the top was free. I had to put a clamp across the short side on the far end because I had to close up the half pin on the left side. The first check for twist showed a wee bit of it.

knocking the corners down
Before I can work on the twist I have flush the corners. Flushing the corners and getting them level will allow the plane to turn the corners without hanging up.

clamping the clamps
I got a scrap at each end and it held the box while I ran the plane around the edges.

done
I worked the two high corners first and then went 360 with the plane. Once I got a continuous shaving from the starting point to it's return, I was done.

twist is gone
gap in the half pin
This was worse than what I see here when I started this. The gap was larger and the pin was curled up and out. I'll repeat the clamping setup when I do the bottom.

very happy with this
I was moving the knife wall with my chopping.

the other side
I still plan on using the 140 to make shallow rabbets in the tail boards. I wanted to see if what I thought I was doing was the cause of my gappy inside joints. On this chopping I made sure I had a deep 'knife wall' before I started to whack the chisel with any oomph.

bottom had the same amount of twist as the top had
I didn't forget this time
One rather annoying habit I have is planing the bottom and removing my marked corners.  Not so this time and I remembered to label the inside top corners before I planed the top. After the bottom was flushed, I labeled the corners again on the top.

plowing stopped grooves
I plowed as much of the groove as I could. I will finish the remaining parts with a chisel. I can't use a router here because I only have a 1/4" iron and that is too wide for a 6mm groove.

almost came through at this end
I didn't realize that I was this far back. If it shows on the finished joint I'll fill it with putty because this till is getting painted.

my first chisel set was metric
I never realized or checked my first chisel set and assumed that it was imperial. It wasn't and this 6mm chisel is a good fit for the groove. I'll have to spend some time at the stones getting it ready before I can use it.

just enough room to clear the tail on both ends
the Record 044 irons
These are imperial which also means the plane was made before the 1960's switch to metric. The irons go from 1/8" up to 9/16" by 16ths.

My
Not a big deal for this application because I am painting the till. I used this as a practice to see if I could do it without nicking anything. 3 out 4 isn't that bad for a first try.

wee bit of a problem
My 6mm panel is 24x30 and I need another 3 inches. Looks like I'll be ordering another panel.

a quarter sheet will do
A 24x48 sheet of plywood will give up the two needed panels and I'll have half the sheet left over.

flushed up the box tray
got tear out on both ends
sanding got most of the test out
There is still a little patch of the tear left. I tried to scrape it out and that wasn't working too well. This is a narrow piece and I was having problems flexing the scraper so it would take a bite. I hand sanded 90 % of out and I'll get the remaining 10% tomorrow.

sanded a slip fit in the tray
There is enough wiggle room for the tray to fit inside the box. When I let it go it slowly sunk down.

cardboard liners
I am going to cut the cardboard to fit the bottom of the tray and box. Once I find my blue velvet cloth, I'll glue that to the cardboard and insert them into their respective spots.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Commodore Perry signed the Treaty of Kanagawa which opened up Japan to western trade?

Megan has Left the Magazine

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 3:06pm
megan-IMG_8447

One of my favorite bas-a#% people.

You might have heard: Megan Fitzpatrick is no longer the editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine.

While readers might be wringing their hands or wondering how the magazine will fare without her (hint: it will be just fine), I am personally and selfishly pleased at the news.

Megan was, hands down, the best employee I ever had (followed closely behind by Kara Gebhart). As my managing editor, Megan worked her butt off. She was both passionate and professional. Intensely curious about the craft. Willing to do whatever it took to get the magazine to the printer while refusing to sacrifice quality.

And now, with her days free, she can work for Lost Art Press even more – both editing and writing. As many of you know, nearly every book at Lost Art Press has benefitted from Megan’s careful eye and deadly red pen. And, if I get my way, she’ll allow us to publish a book of hers that’s been percolating for many years.

The community of woodworking editors is small – maybe 30 or 40 people at most. And when someone leaves a publication, one of two things happen. Most editors disappear. They return to their lives as commercial woodworkers or move on to edit a magazine about drones or hospital hand sanitizers. A few (and I can name them on one hand) refuse to leave the world of woodworking and carve out their own place. On their own terms. And they improve the craft (and their own lives).

The smart money says that Megan will do the latter.

So please welcome Megan to the ranks of the Woodworking Editorial Hobo Society (of which I am lifetime member). There’s a warm chair and a cold beverage waiting for you at our next meeting.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Holiday Shout Out – New Tool From Bridge City Tool Works!

Bridge City Tools - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 12:23pm

Drivel Starved Nation-

I am please to share the latest edition to the HP-10 Convertible Plane, which will allow you to cut coves/flutes and cores in four sizes.

Cutting flutes is an essential element of decorative woodworking. The Greeks and Romans were masters at employing flutes in both their architecture and furniture. Why you ask?

Texture typically adds depth and shadows–both create visual interest. Here’s a pic of some of the cuts you can make with our Cove/Core kits, they include a corner cove, flutes and a core cut;

HP10 Cove Cuts 700

We have never offered soles and irons that are commonly referred to as “hollows” to the traditionalists. I actually do not know why other than something else must have been bugging to get made first. We now will be making the following diameters in four sizes: 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″ and 3/4″. All four of these sizes will allow you to make core cuts which is all the way to the diameter line.

The most common use for core cuts is the ability to create a cylindrical half diameter cut in two boards, regardless of length. When they are glued together, you have hole that would be impossible to drill. Projects that benefit from this technique include musical instruments, lamp making, and any other project where you need a hollow that cannot be drilled.

When combined with a guide fence, you can create 90 degree corner cove cuts which are a nice alternative to a square corner, which is often visually boring. I like corner cove cuts on simple picture frames, there is a cove on the inside corner and small chamfer on the outside edges of the frames below. (The little boy is now an executive expat in Mexico City and that little girl is about to bear her second child…)
Wall Array 700

Here’s a pic of the complete 4 size kit (you will be able to purchase singles too);
Cove_Core 700

The irons are really cool, you simply hone the entire beveled face. Fast, easy and the larger two sizes have been cored so you you only need to hone the periphery of the face.

The many uses of these profiles include;
Fluting
Veining
Grooving
Ornamentation where a round bottom is desired
Drawer pulls
Musical instruments,
and whatever your imagination can conjure!

I’m going to do something with the smallest size that I can’t tell you about but I think you will find it fascinating… and yes, it involves electricity, maybe magnets too.

The pre-order window will open later this week – time to plant a holiday gift idea with your partner!

-John

The post Holiday Shout Out – New Tool From Bridge City Tool Works! appeared first on John's Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

POLL: What Woodworking-Related Gifts Do You Get for the Holidays?

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 6:00am

I love surprises.

My sweet wife, Brenda, hates surprises.

We agree on one surprise area, though, and that is neither of us likes gift surprises. We know what we like, we know what we want, and we don’t see the point of getting something we can’t use or don’t like.

For example, one family who brings their two Dachshunds to us has a delightful jewelry store. A few years ago they ran an ad for a ring and, when Brenda saw it, she said she just had to have it.

Obviously, I got it. I love her too much to say no.

Recently, the wife of the couple was in the clinic with her little girl Dachshund. At the end of the visit she said, “Come get Brenda some nice earrings to go with that ring.”

That night, Brenda and I were talking about Christmas presents, and I mentioned what the lady said. “That wouldn’t interest me,” Brenda opined, “because I want something I can hold out in front of me and see, like a bracelet.”

See what I mean? Why spend money in jewelry-sized aliquots of dough, just to have it be something she doesn’t like?

Brenda quit buying me surprise gifts when she discovered that I was secretly returning them for credit and getting something else. I mean, what if your wife bought you a left-tilt table saw when you wanted a right-tilt? You’d never be completely happy with it.

If you’re going to spend $3000 on a tablesaw, you might as well get what you actually want, and forget the surprise component.

To me, the principle is the same whether you’re spending $14 on a premium paint brush or $500 on a professional Earlex 3-stage Spray System. I don’t want a one-stage sprayer, and, if I get one, I’m going to trade it in toward the unit I actually want, even if I have to save up and do without until I can afford it.

Now, I’m off to print out the photo of the 14″ Rikon Bandsaw and leave it lying around.

Did you know Highland Woodworking has a Wish List feature? Just click here to access the Help page  that will walk you through the registration process. You can also print your Wish List, making it easy for your sweetie to order exactly what you want.

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The post POLL: What Woodworking-Related Gifts Do You Get for the Holidays? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 7: Drawer Tape

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 5:35am

If you build traditional drawers without metal slides, then “drawer tape” is something you should probably become acquainted with. Sometimes sold under the brand Nylo-Tape, this stuff is great for fixing drawers or any other sliding assembly that has become worn from use. My tool chest, for example, has three sliding tills that get moved a dozen times a day. After five years of this activity, the sides of the […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 7: Drawer Tape appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Arched Bridge – Day One

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 5:22am

The root cellar on the homestead is just across the creek from the cabin, about 100-feet from the back door.  Well, technically, it is across two creeks, one coming from a series of springs way up the hill and the other emanating from the spring that is about halfway between the root cellar and the cabin, and used to provide the drinking water for the cabin until the artesian spring was discovered 350 feet up the mountain in the 1980s.  For the past dozen years or so the access to the root cellar was across two increasingly rickety plank bridges, and I had become increasingly concerned about the footing there as Mrs. Barn is usually the one retrieving vittles from the cellar.

The time had come for an updated structure to (re?)establish ease and safety for the trek.  Since I’ve made a number of curved beam structures before, both bridges and arbors, this was the route I chose to take here.  The total span of the space being covered was 25-feet, and one of the issues for the logistics was rendered irrelevant by the choice of an arched structure; the two end points were not level with each other.

With my long time pal Tom visiting for a few days, I decided that the time had come.  I ordered some sweet 1x6x16′ pressure treated lumber, and it turned out to be nearly “Select” grade.  We ripped each of the 1x6s in half, then used them to build the laminated arch in place.

With each end point determined by the site of the creek banks, I used concrete blocks in the center of the span to define the apex of the gentle curve and establish the form of the arch itself.  Placing dead weights on each end of the laminae as we built them up, a near perfect arch was formed and replicated with each new layer.  By off-setting the 1x3x16′ pieces when we glued and screwed them together, the arch was well accomplished.

Each lamina was attached to the preceding one with decking screws @ 6-inch spacing, and excess Titebond III weatherproof glue.

The result was right on target.

The goal for the first day was to finish each beam to a bit more than half height, which we did.

A Dutch Workbench

Toolemera - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 5:14am

You'll have to run translate on this page if you want to read the text. The images do speak for themselves.

Hovelbank

Hc3b8velbenk-oppigard-skori-mc3a5lsatt-skisse

Categories: Hand Tools

Hello, I read your article on buying Japanese saws and have a question. What set of saws would you recommend for a budget/utilitarian buyer?

Giant Cypress - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 3:48am

If you’re talking about this article, that is my budget recommendation. A set of saws like those I describe can be had for around $200. That’s a really good deal for a set of saws that will allow you to make almost any saw cut needed for furniture making.

2 Holiday Turning Projects: Spindle & Globe Wooden Ornaments

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 12/05/2017 - 3:00am

Editor’s note: With the holidays upon us, I’m looking through the magazines and books we own for fun handmade gifts – things that you can build in not too much shop time, but that will help to create a lifetime of memories for the recipients. I’ll post (at least) two every week between now and the new year. This is Holiday Project Post number four – for the “Pint-sized Pickup,” […]

The post 2 Holiday Turning Projects: Spindle & Globe Wooden Ornaments appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Workbench Personality No. 5: Frank Sinatra

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 6:05pm

Village_carpenter,_making_plows,_mat05920sr

I call this type of workbench builder the “Frank Sinatra” because they always do it “My Way.” In other words, a Frank Sinatra workbench is entirely disconnected from tradition and – at times – human reason.

Is this bad? Shouldn’t workbenches be a “I’m OK and You’re OK” kinda thing? If it works for you it’s right, right?

While I don’t seek to poo on anyone’s parade, there are certain guidelines for building things that are related to the human form and the work. If someone came to you and said: I’ve just rethought the idea of the chair – I’ve made the seat 24” deep so there’s more room to relax! Isn’t that great? More, more, more!

Me: Doesn’t that cut off the circulation of blood to the legs?

Designer: Hey, it works for me.

The following descriptions of my encounters with the Frank Sinatras are not an effort to quash innovation in workbench design. Instead, this is a look at what happens if you build a bench without knowing how benches are used.

How it Begins
To be honest, I don’t think I’ve ever met a Frank Sinatra in person. Instead, they are the people who read my blog entries and then send me photos of their workbenches with a note that says something like:

“Saw your Rubio bench. Thought I’d show you what a REAL bench looks like. I designed this one myself – an ORIGINAL design. Want to do a story on my bench? It’s awesome.”

The first Frank Sinatra I encountered had made a U-shaped bench that was 12’ wide and 16’ long (yes, 12 feet x 16 feet). It was comprised entirely of kitchen cabinets that were bolted together and then covered in 4×8 sheets of plywood. Imagine a giant “U” covered in plywood. And there were vises every 3’ or so.

Me: Do you run a school? Is this for your employees? Or are you Catholic like my wife and have a lot of kids?

Frank Sinatra: Nope. It’s just me. But it’s the best damn bench I’ve ever seen. Better than your Robo bench for sure.

lumber-truck-accident_1937

Your Bench is for Pansies
Like many bench builders of the last 2,000 years, I like a bench to have some mass. You can work with a lightweight bench – we’ve all had to do it – but mass makes things easier.

Some people, however, take mass to a ridiculous level. One day I received an email from Frank Sinatra with photos of a bench “that makes your benches look like church picnic tables.”

I opened the attached photos. It was a French-style bench that was made entirely out of 2x12s. The top was all 2x12s that were face-glued (the top was 11” thick). The legs? 2x12s that finished out at 11” x 11”. (Elephants would be jealous.) The stretchers? 2x12s.

In all honesty, it looked like a cartoon sketch of a bench. But I wanted to be diplomatic. After reading the stats provided by the Frank Sinatra (it weighs 575 lbs.!), I asked a simple question.

Me: Bench looks beefy. How do the holdfasts work?

Frank Sinatra: Don’t know. Haven’t used the bench yet. Just finished it last weekend.

Malden-auto-accident-lumber-truck-1951-01

Suckier Workholding
It’s a simple note via email: You don’t need vises. No one needs vises. Take a look!

The bench in the photos is a 4x4x8 box made of plywood. Every foot or so is a vacuum port. They are on the benchtop. On the end of the box. On the front face. The bench is powered by two large compressors, which, through a venturi nozzle, provide the vacuum power.

Now there is no need for vises. Place your work on the vacuum port and it is immobilized. Cutting dovetails? No problem! The work is held immediately upright, ready for sawing? Planing? Put it on the benchtop and the vacuum ports hold it fast. No planing stops. No tail vises. No nothing.

I ask a question: How does it hold rough stock? Stuff that is fresh off the sawmill?

To this day, I still haven’t heard a reply.

Torsion or Tension?
Many times the Frank Sinatras come at me with their torsion box designs – “The T-Box Rules!”

So instead of a simple slab of wood, the T-box designer wants to make a benchtop from thin skins of plywood that cover a baffle system of thin components. This is a great way to make a lightweight tabletop that has a lot of visual presence. But a workbench top?

Me: How will you get holdfasts to hold in a torsion box?

Frank Sinatra: Those areas will be solid wood, surrounded by air.

Me. What about the dog holes?

Frank Sinatra: Same answer. Solid wood in the areas for the dogs.

Me: Don’t you want some mass? This benchtop weighs only 17 lbs.

Frank Sinatra: I’m going to fill all the cavities between the baffles with sand.

It’s Not a Bench. It’s the World
A common Frank Sinatra affliction is to add endless functionality to the bench. A table saw is integrated into the benchtop. A planer is in the base. There is tool storage galore. A fridge. A router table. And Bluetooth.

But does it work? Outside of your mind? Outside of a piece of paper?

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Next up: Workbench Personality No. 6: The Undecider


Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

20 days to go......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 4:23pm
I was taking pics of Miles's toolbox and doing a mental inventory of what tools he has and what he lacks. I used Paul Seller's essential tool list as a guide to get me started. Once I had a head of steam up I stepped back and evaluated the list and what I use tool wise. Paul's list is a good starting point but I decided to go in a different direction. Since I will be the one teaching him, I am picking the tools he will need to follow along with me. He should be able to make just about anything he wants with his kit.

The pics are so I can show them to him at christmas so he knows grandpa didn't short him in the present department. I noticed something lacking when I was snapping the pics. He doesn't have any pigstickers to make mortises. I'm not a fan of using bench chisels to make mortises so........  I looked for mortise chisels today and saw nothing. I will get him a 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 to start with or maybe I'll forgo the 5/16 size.

Miles's plow plane
I consider being able to plow grooves to be important for woodworking. I also wanted to get Miles a plow plane and not a 'plane' that does everything else too. This fits that bill and it looks decent. There aren't any rust spots on the plane nor is there any pitting on the fence rods. I don't know how many irons came with this but they all appear to be there. Each and everyone of them has been sharpened by hand too. I can tell because all the bevels on the irons are rounded.

Record 044
I could have sworn I had bought a Record 050 but this is just as good.

can't woodwork without a good set of chisels
This is a set of six Ashley Iles bench chisels and they are the same ones I have. The added bonus is these came with the tool roll. These are for Miles.

my AI on the right
My chisels are about 4-5 years old. I'm not exactly sure how old but I seem to remember the person I bought them from said that he had them for over a year without using them. It looks like AI changed the design of them and eliminated most of the flat on the top and increased the bevels.

the backs
There is a rough grinding on the back of the new AI chisel. I recall flattening my chisels was not easy and all of them needed a lot of work. I wonder how much work will be required to flatten these new ones? I have plenty of time to do it either way I go.

I really like the tool roll for the chisels
glue has set up
I am impressed by how strong the bond is. I used the rapid fuse glue on this. It didn't swell the joints but it does appeared to have filled the gaps. The pins and tails don't look too bad as they are. I tried to twist this and break it and I couldn't. I am going to use this for the box based on what I found out tonight.

it's a snug fit both ways
It will take very little sanding to get a slip fit. I don't want to plane the long sides to do that. I can sand it without breaking it apart but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about planing it.

planed the twist out
I did risk flushing the top and bottom and then planing the twist out. Both the top and bottom was twisted and I removed it without any problems.

it's too short
I think that she said the same thing. The width is perfect with just a frog hair extra on both sides.

bandsawed a new piece
I took my eye medicine just before I went down to the shop which precluded me doing anything. Just making two quick, short cuts on the bandsaw was an adventure. Your perception of depth is severely reduced with just one peeper. I didn't do anything else tool wise in the shop tonight because of that.

I managed to get this glued and set by the furnace. I'll plane the bottom flush tomorrow

this I could do
Not much I can screw up even with one eye putting shellac on some boxes. The orange colored boxes I made from the old kitchen cabinets, one for each of the girls. I made them back in Feb of this year and never got around to giving them to the girls. I'll try to do it for xmas. I came back to shop after dinner and put on the second coat. 3-4 more and I can call these done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the latin word 'veto' means, I forbid?

A Question of Influence: Comparing the Music Stands from Four Masters

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 10:16am

Editor’s note: In recognition of a fascinating new documentary on the work of Wharton Esherick, by Carolyn Coal, we’re sharing this article from the Winter 2011 issue of Woodwork Magazine. Find out more about the film, watch the trailer and order your copy at WhartonEsherickDocumentary.com.   by Mark Sfirri from the Winter 2011 issue of Woodwork Magazine Several years ago I was talking to Edward S. Cooke, Jr., the Charles […]

The post A Question of Influence: Comparing the Music Stands from Four Masters appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Long Post On My Feelings—Part II

Paul Sellers - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 8:40am

A long post  continued: The evolution of hand tools in my personal work life fascinated me only in the development of metal being mated to wood in the making of tools. Finding my first genuine Indian arrowhead lost in the wildness of the Texas Hill Country made me aware that the arrowhead wasn’t lost but […]

Read the full post A Long Post On My Feelings—Part II on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Airline Internet Reads – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – December 2017 – Tip #2

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 7:00am

No Southern-fried Southern boy wants to be called a Yankee, but we share the characteristics of shrewdness and thrift. Thus, each month we include a money-saving tip. It’s OK if you call me “cheap.

If you’re really cheap, like me, you don’t like paying for internet access when you’re away from home or work. When I’m traveling, I usually write in the airport and write on the plane. There’s not much else to do and I’m not bothered by distractions.

However, sometimes I’m in the mood for being entertained by some good old woodworking reading. Now, that’s easy if the terminal has free WiFi, but you’re not going to get free WiFi once you board the plane, unless you’re in first class, in which case, you ain’t cheap!

To get around that, I’ll open a browser, and enough browser pages to fill my flight time with reading.

Key point: You can still power down your device if you put it in “Sleep Mode,” because, when you restore power, everything will load just like you left it. If you simply shut down the entire computer, you’ll lose everything you loaded.

It may take a few minutes to load enough pages for a two-hour flight, but it’s free!

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Airline Internet Reads – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – December 2017 – Tip #2 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Gonna Buy Five Copies For My Mother

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 6:54am

About eighteen months ago I contracted with Popular Woodworking magazine to write a pile of articles, and the final one of that batch was featured on the cover of the current issue.

This article was the feature on Jim Moon’s recreation of the HO Studley tool cabinet and workbench, which was indeed masterful.

The image of that new treasure has been popping up in disparate places.  It deserves the widest possible dissemination.

Saturday: A Book-release Party & an Open Storefront

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 6:43am

LAP_wreath_IMG_0633

This Saturday, Dec. 9, will be the last day the Lost Art Press storefront will be open for 2017 (our next open day will be Jan. 13, 2018). So if you need holiday gifts or something with a personal signature, this is the best and last day to get them.

That same evening, Dec. 9, we’re throwing a book release party for Mary May, author of “Carving the Acanthus Leaf” and George Walker, one of the authors of “From Truths to Tools.” Both authors will give brief presentations, and then they’ll be happy to answer your questions and sign books. Lost Art Press will supply drinks and light snacks. The free event is 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and is just about filled up. We still have a few places left – you can register here.

If you haven’t been to the storefront in a while, there is a lot of progress to see. The Horse Garage is nearing completion, and we’re setting up the Covington Mechanical Library in the back room for reading and research.

We’ll also have lots of blemished books and tools for sale at 50 percent of retail (cash only). We also have the “Big Bag of Free T-shirts” for you to dive into. Recently I culled my collection of woodworking T-shirts (from all over the world). Come and get as many as you like to wear or to cut them up for rags.

As always, we are happy to answer any of your woodworking questions during these events. Megan Fitzpatrick and Brendan Gaffney (from Popular Woodworking Magazine) will also be there to help out. Here’s a map to the storefront:

Hope to see you there.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Lost Art Press Storefront, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

The Rabbit Hutch – Part 7

The Bench Blog - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 1:00am

Sigh…. It seems that anytime I write a post this year, I have to start with the disclaimer of why I haven’t posted for X number of months.  Life gets busy.  I finished this rabbit hutch project in April, but still haven’t managed to put the final few posts together.  I think I need to just buckle down and write a couple of posts.

I spent the summer restoring an old fishing boat and an RV that I bought at the beginning of 2017.  It was a lot of work (cleaning, polishing, caulking), but nothing really woodworking related other than a RV dining table that had to be rebuilt.  Even if I had photographed the process, its clear from my inability to finish the rabbit hutch series, that I would now be sitting on a bunch of images that would also not be in blog post form.

My last post was in July, so I fully understand if you had completely forgotten that I ever started a rabbit hutch series.  In fact, It would be far more surprising if you actually remembered.  In any case, let’s get back to where I left off….

The rabbit hutch project is finally looking like a rabbit hutch.  I got a lot done in the last post, but the hutch still doesn’t have a roof.  Time to remedy that.

You can see the earlier posts in this series here:

In the last post, I made the pull out drawers that I hope will make cleaning out the hutch easier. Now the hutch needs a roof.  This thing is getting heavy, so the roof needs to be removable.  Lets get started:

I milled some Douglas fir and cut it into a trapezoidal shape.  I can’t remember the exact angle (it’s been nearly a year), but lets estimate 10-15°.  Either way, the angle here needs to match the pitch of the roof.  The front and back pieces are trapezoidal, the sides are square.

I milled some stock to make the roof.

I milled some stock to make the roof.

I figured that I would join the pieces with some chunky dovetails.  Overkill?  Sure, but what about this rabbit hutch hasn’t been?

All of the parts were beveled to match the slope of the roof.

All of the parts were beveled to match the slope of the roof.

I used some cardboard to design a template for the dovetails.

I used some cardboard to design a template for the dovetails.

I traced the template onto the workpiece and cut the dovetails.

I traced the template onto the workpiece and cut the dovetails.

Not perfect, but close enough for a rabbit hutch.

Not perfect, but close enough for a rabbit hutch.

I used my twin tail vises and bench dogs as clamps for the glue-up.

The assembly was glued up and left to dry.

The assembly was glued up and left to dry.

I then planed all of the surfaces flush.

I then planed all of the surfaces flush.

The main part of the roof is made of ⅝” plywood.  The Doug Fir frame that I just made is to stiffen the plywood and to serve as a fascia.  I suppose the plywood could have been attached directly to the top of the Doug Fir, but I thought it better if it were installed with screws and glue in a rabbet.  Nice and neat.

I used to my laminate router to cut a rabbet on the inside of the roof assembly.

I used to my laminate router to cut a rabbet on the inside of the roof assembly.

I had to make multiple passes with the trim router to remove such a large rabbet.

I cut a piece of ⅝-inch plywood to fit inside the rabbet.

I cut a piece of ⅝-inch plywood to fit inside the rabbet.

The plywood was attached to the frame with glue and screws.  After that, it was time for a quick test fit.

That should be big enough to keep the rain off most of the hutch.

That should be big enough to keep the rain off most of the hutch.

A quick test fit before proceeding any further.

A quick test fit before proceeding any further.

I gave the roof several coats of good exterior paint and then the next step was to install some 30 lb roofing felt (tar paper) and a meal drip edge.

I installed drip edge and roofing felt.

I installed drip edge and roofing felt.

I painted the roof assembly.

I painted the roof assembly.

Roofing indoors was a wholly new experience .  I never thought I’d be using my bench like this when I built it.

Installing the shingles.

Installing the shingles.

The last strip will be glued on to cover the nailheads.

The last strip will be glued on to cover the nailheads.

Wow… I found that this thing was really heavy when I went to remove it from the bench.  I had to get a neighbor to help me move it.  I set it outside where it can wait for final installation.

Time to turn my attention to building a ramp that the rabbits will be able to use to go from the lower to upper sections of the hutch.

Starting to layout the parts for the ramp.

Starting to layout the parts for the ramp.

Cutting into the line was quicker than setting up the miter saw.

Cutting into the line was quicker than setting up the miter saw.

The ramp was really simple.  Two rails made from Doug Fir and rabbeted to receive a ¼” plywood surface.  I added glue and brad nails, and then used my holdfasts and cauls to apply clamping pressure.

I'm glued up the ramp assembly and used my holdfasts as clamps.

I’m glued up the ramp assembly and used my holdfasts as clamps.

When I made the upper poop drawer, I mis-measured where the opening for the ramp sat.  This meant that I had to notch the edge of the ramp to allow the drawer to fully close.

I had to notch the side of the ramp to allow the drawer to fully close.

I had to notch the side of the ramp to allow the drawer to fully close.

I screwed up a little here we're making the drawer. It should not have extended past the edge of the frame.

As seen from above: I screwed up a little here we’re making the drawer. It should not have extended past the edge of the frame.

The critters will need something for their feet to grip when using the ramp so that I doesn’t become a slide.  I accomplished this by cutting a ton of little pieces and gluing them on.

Chamfering the small traction pieces.

Chamfering the small traction pieces.

Glueing on some traction.

Glueing on some traction.

Painted and installed.

Painted and installed.

I just hope they'll use it. It is a rather long climb.

I just hope they’ll use it. It is a rather long climb.

Fantastic, we’re nearly there.  The last part of my plan was to make a small insulated box that the critters can go inside of in the worst of the cold weather.  In the wild, they’d be able to burrow underground to escape the worst of the cold and wind, so it seems only fair that I give them something similar in this hutch.

In the next post, I’ll make the insulated box.

Stay tuned.

 

– Jonathan White

 

getting better.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 12/04/2017 - 12:56am
My eye is getting better and I have seen a big improvement in only one day. I woke up this morning and it wasn't glued shut which was a good sign. And other  than having to deal with putting the medicine in my eye and waiting, I didn't have problems in the shop. In spite of the eye feeling better I decided to take it easy today and just go slow in everything I did.

Quiet work
It was almost 0730 by the time I started on this box. This has to be done for xmas and the wife was still sleeping. It's been over an hour since I put the medicine in my eye and my vision was no longer blurry. There is a plastic,rubbery washer thing underneath the knob and that is what the shallow hole is for.

I would have prefer making one but I have time constraints
There is a greenish  grain splash on the poplar lid that matches the greenish tint to the knob. This box is for stuffing xmas candy in.

too short
If I wanted the bottom of the stud to be flush with the bottom of the lid I did a great job.  I forgot to allow for the washer and the nut. This won't be wasted as I will epoxy this into a hole on something else. I have 3 more of them that I can cut the stud to the correct length.

I'm going to finish this
I wasn't going to use this but I changed my mind. If it works for the box ok. If not I'll use it in the shop somewhere. I sawed the pins with my LN dovetail saw without any hiccups. I think I was able to do that because this stock is maple. Usually I can't saw stock this thin with the LN saw.

can't chop them yet
My curiosity has been aroused as to how well these tails and pins will mate.

#6 is done - port side glamour shot
bow shot
starboard side shot
stern shot
bottom
Put on some Autosol and buffed it out. I do like shiny, brass first and then anything else.

the before pic

stopped when I got an end to end shaving
I was curious and concerned about the slots in the sole and if they might interfere with making shavings. Especially so planing on the corner but it doesn't. Granted the corner is rounded but I didn't detect the slightest hint of the plane catching on any of the slots. As for it being easier to plane, I didn't feel any appreciable difference. When I do my #6 which isn't corrugated, I'll do a side by side. For now this is going in Miles's toolbox.

one corner fitted but it's looser than what I would like
I don't have a lot of experience with maple. It is a wood that I haven't used much over my years of woodworking so I'm not sure how much the glue will swell the joint.

dry fit is a frog hair too big
If I do use it, I'll have to sand it to fit. I don't think that this will hold up to being planed to fit.

biggest gaps
All the corners came out with varying degrees of loose. The pin saw cuts were much better then the tail cuts that I did with the Zona saw. But they didn't eliminate the fit errors.

glued with the rapid fuse
I got blue tape on the corners and have it very lightly clamped against the 12" square. This glue sets in 30 minutes and I'll check it again then.

got the last of the pins chopped
It had to stay this way for a few hours while the medicine induced blurriness went away.

been over an hour
A quick check of the diagonals and they are both the same. I set this aside by the furnace for it to fully set. I will glue a 1/8" plywood bottom onto this tomorrow.

checking the fit off the saw
I didn't get bit on the arse here. I was expecting the pins and tails to be loose but instead they are too tight to go together.

this is what happens when you saw with one eye
I usually split the line but I left the entire line this time. I don't mind trimming the pins to fit. I find it relaxing watching how little shavings removed make room for the pins and tails to mesh.

first corner dry fitted
I was moving the knife wall
I was very careful chopping this time and the left side is gap free but the right isn't.

tails aren't fully seated
It looks like the bottom corners of the pins are pinching the tails. I will have to do a bit more trimming.

other end of the board is cupped
got 99% of it clamped out
this one is tight too and will get a shave job


it will be a pain in the arse
I have to clamp this together, square it up, and then flush the top and the bottom. I need to do that so I can plow a 6mm groove on the top and bottom for the plywood panels. Clamping it so the pins and tails are fully seated and it is square, is going to be a challenge.

the cupping is working against me here
I will need clamping cauls at all the corners to flatten the cup out that goes in two different directions.

the saws fit
One point for me. I have enough room at one end for some files and maybe a saw set.

6mm plywood
I will need to make a stopped groove in the long sides, on the top and bottom.

A good day in the shop spite of the peeper hiccups.

accidental woodworker

Trivia corner
Did you know it takes about 8 minutes for light from the sun to reach the earth?

Skottbenken på Egge

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Sun, 12/03/2017 - 11:30pm
img_9498.jpgSkottbenk på masstuloftet på Egge museum

Student i Tradisjonelt bygghandverk; Kai Johansen på Stiklestad har i starten hatt litt problem med å finne skottbenkar for registrering i Nord-Trøndelag. Det viste seg snart at dei har berre gått litt under radaren til studentane og Egge museum har minst tre skottbenkar i samlinga. Her følgjer tekst og bilete frå Kai:

Da vi skal fokusere på høvler, høvelbenker og skottbenker tredje året av studiet, sendte jeg ut en forespørsel til museene som er konsolidert med Stiklestad om skottbenker. Det gikk ikke lange tiden før Bodil Østerås på Egge museum kunne fortelle at de hadde en skottbenk stående oppe i utstillingen i masstua. Jeg ble svært interessert, og spurte litt nærmere om hun var sikker? Bodil hadde full oversikt over, både hvordan skottbenken så ut, og hvordan den skulle brukes. Dette er ikke vanlig kost i museumsverden, men det store opplysningsarbeidet som Norsk Skottbenk Union har drevet de siste årene har kanskje virka også på museene? Jeg tok først en tur i magasinet og kikket etter høvler som kunne ha vært i bruk sammen med skottbenker. Der fant jeg noen not- og fjærhøvler, men ingen skottokser.

Da jeg kom på Masstuloftet var det ikke mindre enn 3 skottbenker, en ferdig oppsatt klar til bruk, en med bare bukkene og en til å skyte tønnestaver. Bodil kunne fortelle at det var 4 treff i primus hos dem på skottbenk, men ingen foto kom opp på datamaskinen. Så her er helt klart mer å hente for dokumentasjon og oppmåling, man må bare lete litt.

Jeg vil foreløpig konsentrere meg om skottbenken som var ferdig oppsatt. Den er laget av tre ulike treslag, bjørk, furu, og gran. Bjørk i skruen (2 tomms), tappen som holder bena sammen og kilen, og en sliteplate som skruen presser mot når skruen strammes til. Det er furu i føttene og gran i langbordene. Lengden på benken er 381 cm eller 146,5 tommer, bredden på langborden e er 7 tommer, tykkelsen er 1 3/4tommer. Disse to plankene er i gran. Høyden på føttene er 75,5 cm eller 29″ tommer.

Her er det som museet har skrevet om skottbenken:

«Magasin nr: STM 04036

Skottbenk

Redskap for å feste panelet i, ved høvling. Den har to kraftige treskruer for å presse sammen/ feste gulv (bord) plankene under høvling. Denne skottbenken stod tidligere i Beitstad, Moen. Tidligere eier er Mikal Opdal. Han hadde benken da han begynte som husmann under Opdal i Beitstad. Husmannskontrakten ble skrevet under i 1877.»

En del av sporene etter oppmerking er bevart flere steder på skottbenken, og all oppmerking er gjort med blyant. Det er boret et hull i ene langbordet ca 1″ tomme i diameter, ca 60 cm fra ene foten, men ikke gjennom planken ca 1″ tomme inn i planken. Det var også noen spiker oppå plankene usikker på hvilken funksjon de har hatt.

Jeg har nå vært en tur tilbake på Egge og kikket nærmere på skottbenken da det var noen mål og detaljer som var litt uklar. Første erfaring jeg vil kommentere er at hvis man jobber på millimeter papir og tegner i målestokk så er det mye enklere å ta alle mål i millimeter, nå prøvde jeg å kombinere oppmålingen med norske tommer og så overføre det til millimeter for så å gjøre det om til rett målestokk, det var tungvint. Hvis man tegner uten mm papir kan man godt jobbe i norske tommer. Her er oppdatert tegning av skottbenke n med litt fler detaljer rundt det faste bordet .

Det var særlig detaljer rundt innfestningen av det faste bordet som var interessant. Den var lagd på en helt annen måte enn den andre skottbenken hvor al l innfestning var gjort med mye spiker og en tapping i bordet. Her var det lagt en lask på baksiden og tappet både i bordet, foten og i lasken, hver lask hadde i tillegg til fire spiker en tre plugg og merket med X og / . jeg tolket disse symbolene som merking i byggeprosessen.

Jeg hadde en avtale med Bodil Østerås om å låne benken til studiesamlingen i desember og lurte litt på hvordan jeg skulle få den ned den smale loftstrappa, eller hvordan hadde snekkeren fått opp all materialene han skulle høvle, det hele virket litt tungvint. Det var ikke her skottbenken hadde stått når den hadde vært i bruk, men den virket jo litt tungvint å flytte på samtidig.

Det var først når jeg var ferdig med å dokumentere at skottbenken åpenbarte en vel gjennomtenkt finesse. Det løse bordet løftet jeg av og fikk ned, men s å var det det faste og to føtter, når Per Steinar tok i benken løftet bordet seg litt og vi skjønte at det ikke var så fast som vi trodde. Den lille trepluggen kunne dras ut og bordet var helt løst fra føttene, noe som gjorde flyttingen svært enkel, «satan de tænkt nu på aillt».

Så konklusjonen må vel være at det er viktig å komme tilbake til åstedet og ta en ekstra kikk og tenke litt gjennom hvordan har dette objektet vært i bruk hvordan har de som brukte det transportert det.


Categories: Hand Tools

The hypocrisy of a cheapskate woody

Journeyman's Journal - Sun, 12/03/2017 - 6:00pm

This is hilarious, please watch it till the end, but it’s also true. This isn’t a Lie Nielsen promotion just try to see the bigger picture.

http://giantcypress.net/post/1487152382/overheard-conversation-at-a-lie-nielsen-hand-tool

 


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