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lackadaisical saturday......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 3:03am
My saturday started way before oh dark thirty. I did some OT and going in early to do that kind of killed any motivation to do anything today. Part of that is I don't have a project to occupy my attention that involves wood. I have a quite a few tool rehabs that have been simmering on the back burner that I could do. But I convinced myself that I didn't want to get my hands dirty working metal.

I could make something like this from the Oregon Woodworker to tide me over project wise. I had made a set of these out of 4x4's last year (?) and they work but are a PITA to move around and use. I like the lighter look and weight of these. I am not a fan of a saw bench but I dido like sawing on my saw donkeys. I was still suffering from my bigger has to be better sickness when I made the 4x4 monsters I have. Lowes sells Douglas Fir 2x stock and I will make a run to get them tomorrow.

I should be working on new workbench. But my wife threw a huge monkey wrench into that happening. She decided that she wasn't paying the Lowes credit card bill anymore because I had paid off my VISA card. I had forgotten all about it because she has been paying it for the last few years. So I took all the $$$ I had saved up in the bank for the workbench and gave it to Lowes. The plan is to have it paid off by the end of October. I still have high hopes that I will at least be able to make the base for it this year.

first use of the miter box
 I think for most of my saw cuts that I will do them without this. I am using this here to saw a 22.5° angle on the ends of the handles on the big toolbox till. For angle cuts and repetitive cuts to the same length, I will use this.

The auxiliary base I used is 3/4" and it is not thick enough for this. I can barely make out the saw kerf made by the saw. If I remember it I'll get a 5/4 pine board from Lowes tomorrow. That thickness should be ok and I should be able to put a saw kerf in it.

one 22.5° cut done
 This is not off the saw. This is the after pic cleaned up with the block plane.

the before pic right off the saw
This is too rough looking for my tastes and that is why I planed them.

the 2nd after pic planed up
This was all the woodworking I did today.

worth the calorie expenditure
To my eye this dresses this up and it looks better than squared off ends. If hadn't used a molded piece but a flat one, I still would have cut an angle on the end.

need to fix one more thing
 I noticed a problem with the dust band molding I put on last thursday. This side the gap is thin as is the front on the left side. Also notice a ugly looking paint drip on the lid as I looked at this pic. Yikes!

the right side has a gap
I had used my 4" square to set the distance of the banding from the top of the toolbox. The only thing I can think of that may have caused this is my planing of the lid. Maybe I took a few more strokes  off the right side then I did the left. I could have also planed a slant in the lid. This has to be closed up

one more fix to do
When I installed the banding I forgot to trim the side pieces to length. I want the end of the molding will line up with the end of the toolbox. On this end it is a hair over an 1/8" and less than an 1/8" on the other one. The banding is only glued at the miters and is screwed to the toolbox from the inside. This wasn't luck, but something I planned for just in case I had to replace or repair it. I didn't expect to be doing it so soon. The fix was quick and easy. I screwed the right side back in place using new screw holes. I don't plan on plugging the holes.

my Preston chamfer spokeshave
I was playing around with this before I did the toolbox fixes. I was planning on stripping this and rehabbing it today. I sanded the iron and this popped out. It is an original Preston iron - not sure if it is original to this tool though. I ran into a problem in that I am missing washers. They are needed for the sliding stops that are at the top right to secure them. With no washers the thumbscrew goes in the slot and the stops still move. So off to Lowes I went (this was before I thought of making the saw horses).

that is the size I need
The number 10 washers I just bought are too small. Being clever, I was going to get a #12 washer. Lowes didn't have a #12 washer. They go from #10 to 1/4". McMaster-Carr sells #12 washers ($13@100 plus S/H) but I'll have to measure this one and see if I can match it with what McMaster sells.

I bought an assortment package of washers
 As a general rule, I don't like buying assortments. In this case I did it for two reasons. First to find two washers I needed for the spokeshave and two was for the small lock washers. I don't have any other than 1/4-20's. The assortment gave no joy with a washer that fit. The 1/4-20 was a bit too big and of course I have a boatload of them.

I couldn't find a fit
 The thumbscrew fit the 7/32 size loosely and nothing on the metric size. Everything I checked there was either too small or loose.

too loose in the 6mm hole
It is too big for the 5mm and there isn't a 5.5mm hole. Moot point as I don't know if Preston was using Metric when it made this and two, I don't know the size of the screw. I don't have a metric screw pitch gauge nor a Whitworth gauge. From what I read about Whitworth, the sizes below 1/4-20 are a close fit with imperial.  (McMaster has 5.5mm stuff but not 5.5mm thumbscrews or 5.5mm washers).

painting the toolbox
The best way to paint something like this and not get paint on the hardware, is to remove it first. It is a few extra dance steps but it pays off with a better looking job.

first coat
I used flat exterior paint because it will cover better than an interior paint. I picked a color called nocturnal green I picked it for the color, not the name). Paul Seller's toolbox was painted a blackish green color that I liked and this looks to be pretty close to that. Two coats on the exterior and I'm hoping to get away with only one coat on the exterior. The inside of the toolbox is not going to be painted.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the Great White Way?
answer - the nickname for the theater district on Broadway in New York City

Meet Katerina Kiranos – Pachamama Workshop

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 09/24/2017 - 3:00am

If you asked me five years ago what I thought I would end up doing with my time, woodworking would have been one of my last guesses. My story begins in a high-rise, towering over the neon-painted beaches of Miami, Florida. I was raised by a single mom, a strong-willed Spaniard with a business of her own who stubbornly managed to become her own handyman, and my brother, a talented […]

The post Meet Katerina Kiranos – Pachamama Workshop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Better Shop Knife

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 11:55am


I lost my shop knife while we were unpacking at Handworks this spring, and I have been on a quest since then to find its replacement. (The company that made my now-lost knife no longer exists.)

I am dang picky about knives. I’ve carried one every day since elementary school. So it is no small thing when I say this: I am glad I lost my favorite knife at Handworks because now I have a Kershaw Link drop-point knife in gray aluminum blackwash.

Here’s what I need in a knife:

  • One-handed operation – I need to be able to quickly close and open the knife with zero fuss.
  • The blade has to lock in the open position for safety.
  • It has to be lightweight and compact.
  • It has to have a belt clip.
  • All the components need to be incredibly rugged. I hate flimsy knives.
  • Oh, I also dislike flashy materials or things that look like a Klingon’s wet dream.

That is a tall order, and I rejected a lot of knives until I found the Kershaw Link. What makes the knife even more extraordinary is it is made in the U.S. and can be found for about $40 retail. (I bought mine on sale for $31.)

The blade is stainless steel, but it takes a good edge and is plenty durable when cutting wood, wire and whatever shop material is asking for a stabbing or a slashing. Totally recommended.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

P.S. This is not a sponsored post. We don’t believe in that crap and buy all our products at  retail.

Filed under: Personal Favorites, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Making an infill plane from scratch 2, initial considerations.

Mulesaw - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 10:03am
I have more or less decided that the overall size of the plane will be something like a Stanley No 3 or a No 4.
There are many different designs of infill planes out there, but I don't want to make anything too wild. Nor do I want to make a direct copy of someones plane. But given the many planes that exist, it is quite possible that mine will look like some other plane after all. But that is OK with me.

Our reasonable well stocked supply of plane building material (flat steel bar) allowed me to go for a 1/4" x 2"3/8 for the sole (6x60 mm) and 9/32" x 2" for the sides (5x50 mm).

They are in regular black steel colour meaning that there is a bit of crust on the steel left from the manufacturing process. I have tried to immerse them in some vinegar together with the blade, to see if that will remove it. I doubt it, but it is worth the try.

I was thinking about the grain orientation for the infill parts. I guess that the reason for the wood to be placed with the grain running in the length of the plane is that in the very likely event of wood movement due to differences in moisture, you will not have the sole distorted.
Maybe the sides will become a little bit loose or they will expand a little, but the sole should stay flat that way. At least that is how I see it. So my wooden parts will have the grain running in that direction.
My plan is to use some sort of pipe inserts in the infill parts, to minimize any impact of wood movement.

I'll aim for a blade angle of 45 degrees, It should make a good allround plane (if I succeed). If the angle is a bit off I doubt that it will matter much.

Sketch with some major measurements.
The angle of the blade is closer to 60 degrees,
and the rear tote looks like crap, but it will have to do.

Blade, chipbreaker and screw in vinegar.
The plane material is in there as well.

Categories: Hand Tools

M&T Shop Building: Sheathing the Roof and Packing Up

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 6:15am

Friday morning was the first day of fall and, boy, did it feel like it. The characteristic crisp nip in the air, the breeze, and even geese migrating overhead: All of it was right on cue. John had to head back to Vermont and Mike went to the Common Ground Fair with his family so Luke, Isaac, Matt, and I attached the roof sheathing to the rafters. We spent all day nailing these gorgeous 200-year-old hemlock boards in place. Because they had already cut, fit, and labeled the boards before bringing them up, the process went smoothly.

The patina in these boards is sacred to this crew. Because they’ve worked so hard to de-nail, power wash, repair, straighten edges, and lay these boards out they are very careful not to scratch the beautiful interior show surfaces. They explained that their process involves standing all the boards in a circle to organize them by color and select them for optimal placement on the roof system. They do their very best to hide all shadow lines from their original rafters. For this project, the crew was pleased to find they were able to hide all but a few of the faintest shadows on a few boards. (In case you haven’t noticed yet, this is not regular carpentry, this is more akin to art.) Just before dark last night, the last bit of tar paper was laid over the sheathing and the crew left for dinner.

They’re coming back this morning to tidy the site and load their trailers for the drive home. Although I am so happy that the frame is now up, I’m sad to see this week end. We’ve gotten so close with everyone on this crew and will miss their company. I’m usually such an independent person that hiring someone else to do something I think I might be able to pull off on my own has felt strange. On this side of the raising, though, I know that there is no way on earth I could have done anything close to what these guys have done. I’ve learned so much this week working alongside them and in our discussions about the next steps of the project.

Thank you, Luke, Matt, Isaac, and John for your hard work this week as well as during the weeks leading up to this raising. This frame is not a play house. It’s not a silly “man cave” or pool house that we feel indifferent about. This building is the future of our business, the new home of Mortise & Tenon Magazine. All our articles will be written and edited here, our videos will be filmed here, and our workshops will happen here. Many years of hand tool woodworking will take place within these walls, guys. Thank you for the care you’ve taken with this restoration. Your conscientious workmanship honors the craftsmen who built it over 200 years ago. We hope M&T’s use of it will continue to honor the work of their and your hands.

- Joshua


Categories: Hand Tools

From Pinterest to Real Life – A Custom Necklace Stand

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 3:00am

I was recently asked to be Godfather to my youngest niece. This is quite the honor, especially in my Italian-American family. This notion has much less to do with religion and much more to do with influence in my family. You see, this pretty much gives me full license to spout off on a myriad of topics for the rest of my niece’s life. She won’t always be obligated to […]

The post From Pinterest to Real Life – A Custom Necklace Stand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Lovely Brown Oak

David Barron Furniture - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 2:31am

At EWS there was a stall selling some lovely boards of quarter sawn brown oak. Although I have enough wood for the rest of my life, I just couldn't resist! Where the beetle infestation has only partially taken effect, it sometimes shows stripes of dark brown which is referred to as tiger oak in the trade. The stripes were even more pronounced on the other side of this 2" thick board, so the vast majority of this 0.8 cube slab (10 board feet in US) is fine useable wood. On enquiring as to the moisture content it was tested at 35%, so basically green. I have dated the board  and will have to wait at least two years before it can be used, but it will be worth it.

Categories: Hand Tools

Stanley 2358 done......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/23/2017 - 12:37am
It's done. After sitting unloved for months and with relatively few calories expended, I have a miter box. I also have a Stanley 358 miter box but that one is missing a lot of parts. It was also used and abused, and put away wet. Needless to say, it has a few issues. The big plate saw I have came with that miter box. Now that I have a functioning miter box we'll have to see if I use or just look at it.

I was looking at Lie Nielsen's miter box saws with the thought of maybe buying one. The largest saw they offer is 28" long with a 4" saw plate that is 0.032 thick. Both of the miter box saws I have are 0.045 and 0.048 thick. They are also longer than 28". LN is the only maker of saws that I know of that offers miter box saws but they state their saws will fit Langdon or Miller Falls miter boxes. I can't remember which of these Stanley bought out?

pretty much even
The back one is bit higher on the left side and there is a solid contact with both on the bench. I whacked the back one down until it matched the front one. Why is the front one longer on the left?

replaced the phillips head screws
These screws are a 1/4-20 and I have a lot of these. I'm replacing the crappy PH screws with the slotted one that has a much larger head with a fair size bearing surface. It looks to be 3 times the PH bearing surface real estate.

the far left and near right are high
it was awfully close
When I flipped the box up onto it's feet, it was almost a four point contact. In hindsight, maybe I shouldn't have corrected it the way I did it. I gave the two high feet a whack with the hammer and checked it. It took a couple more before I got a perfect no rocking 4 point contact.

This miter box frame is cast iron and cast iron is strong but not as strong as you might think. It is very easy to stress it causing a break or crack. I didn't think that far ahead when I did my love taps on the feet. What I should have done was check the lay of the land, remove the feet and whack them, put them back on and check it. Start the dance steps again if I didn't have a 4 point contact.. Sometimes you get lucky.

front saw guide post
I am missing the screw on the back post and this one is the front one. I screwed this all the way down to see if I could get the $25 saw closer to the base.

blurry pic of the screw
I am not 100% sure of what this screw is for but it will raise or lower the saw guide post. Doing that raises or lowers the height of the saw relative to the base. The missing screw in the back post explains why there was at a slant front to back.

a little more than a 1/2" shy
I got the $25 saw to get a lot closer to the base. I can screw a 3/4" sub base to the existing one without losing any capacity.

the cut with the $25 saw I forgot last night
the $25 saw has a 3 1/2" plate
I don't know the age of this saw nor the maker. In my Stanley catalogs, the smallest miter saw plate is 4" so maybe this one has just been sharpened down to this?

the big plate saw fits - it has a 4 3/4" plate
Before I put the handle back on, I wanted to make sure it fit.

these hold downs
Stanley calls them 'stock guides'. Whatever they are called, they work surprisingly well. I made several cuts at 90 and 45 just using the stock guide and had no problems with stock movement. I did have a few problems holding the stock with my free hand and sawing. I had a hard time holding the stock steady as I sawed.

sawed a 90 and then a R/L 45
pretty good for off the saw with a molded profile
The molded profile doesn't match up but it's square.

better profile fit and still square
These are the two off cuts from the R/L miters.  All the saw cuts except for the first pic, were all done with the big plate miter saw.

found a piece of plywood for a base
it pays to be a pack rat
it's new home for now
The miter box is done. With the base screwed on I now have something I can put in the dogs or use bench hooks to secure it. That will keep it from dancing around as I try to saw something on it.

both saws will live here
For now I'll be using the $25 saw unless I have to saw anything deeper than 3". The underside of the spine on the big plate saw has scallops on both sides. One side has more than the other. When pushing the saw back and forth through the guide posts, the scallops cause it to jump up and down. It makes sawing a bit harder to do. The action is no way as smooth or as bump free as the $25 saw is. Both saws are within an 1" of each other in length so I am not losing any capacity in that direction.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the last element on the periodic table?
answer - Ununoctium                                              

Making an infill plane from scratch

Mulesaw - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 1:37pm
I don't often make tools, and if I do they are mostly some quick dirty solutions that are just needed for one special operation.

My friend Brian Eve over at Toolerable often have great ideas like "the June chair build" etc.
He once suggested that we made an IPBO (Infill Plane Build Off), where we would simultaneously build an infill plane and blog about it.
I decided that I couldn't wait anymore, so I am just going to start building an infill plane from scratch out here.
Brian and anyone else interested in building any type of infill plane are more than welcome to join in. It doesn't matter if it is made from a kit, or from scratch or a remake, it can be a rabbet, a smoother or a panel plane etc.
If you are building one, leave a comment with the address to where you are documenting/describing your build, and I'll post it here so people can see how everyone is doing.

Actually my build won't be completely from scratch, since I brought a plane iron with me for the bild.
It is an old E.A. Berg iron that was in a box I bought filled with all kinds of planes. Most of the planes were incredibly crappy, so the deal itself was not that good for me, but this could potentially make it better.

I have looked at various planes for inspiration, and I have a rough idea about how I would like it to end up looking. I would have preferred brass for the sides, but we haven't got any brass like that out here, so I'll try to make it out of some regular flat steel bar.
My newly purchased bubinga will be used as infill material. Once I get that far, I'll see what I can come up with to use as lever cap , and I might make some sort of Norris style adjuster as well.

My plan is to first get the iron cleaned up,and then I need to start making some sketches and eventually settle on a design.

Length 6.75", width 1"5/8

The lower part is hard steel, the upper part softer.

Not terribly abused iron.

Categories: Hand Tools

Clue # 2 for New Bridge City Thingamajig….

Bridge City Tools - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 12:59pm

Drivel Starved Nation-

Here’s your second clue to the thing that will make Bridge City the laughing stock of the internet…

If you guessed bent stainless steel wire you are correct! The longer version is about 90mm in length.


The post Clue # 2 for New Bridge City Thingamajig…. appeared first on John's Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Storefront Open Day, Oct. 14, Should be a Doozie

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 11:44am


We have lots going on at the storefront now, so if you wanted to pick a good weekend for a visit, Oct. 14 would be ideal. Here’s a short list of stuff to see:

  1. I’m building my reproduction of the Saalburg workbench right now. It should be complete (or nearly complete). Come check out the workholding and let us know what you think about our experimental archaeology project.
  2. I’m also making a crazy dugout chair – a style of chair that was popular in the British Isles in the 18th and 19th centuries (and maybe earlier). It should also be complete by then and will have some unusual details involving roadkill.
  3. We’ll have copies of the deluxe “Roubo on Furniture Making” and will be supplying commemorative bibs to keep your drool off them (just kidding about the bibs). If you want to see a book that exceeds all our others, this is your chance.
  4. Demolition has begun on the “Horse Garage” behind the storefront, which will become the machine room for my shop. Come see barren walls and debris!
  5. We’ll have a large load of Crucible dividers that are seconds. The have tiny cosmetic flaws and are $90 cash. And Raney has threatened to hang out and show off our next tool from Crucible.
  6. Finally, as always, we’re happy to answer questions about tools or techniques – or even give you a sharpening lesson.

Our storefront is at 837 Willard St. in Covington, Ky. The hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every second Saturday of the month.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Filed under: Lost Art Press Storefront, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Dugout Chair Part 8, The Inner Bark

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 10:42am

Today I got smart and worked on this dugout chair before I took a shower – genius. Also, I found an easier way to remove the inner bark – with a chisel. Last night after dinner I went out to look at what one blog commenter has called “about the ugliest thing in woodworking history” and decided to see how easy it would be to chisel the inner bark away […]

The post Dugout Chair Part 8, The Inner Bark appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

The Silent Witness

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 9:12am

From “A New Library of Poetry and Song,” by William Cullen Bryant, The Baker Taylor Co., 1903

“Young people are often amazed at the tenacity with which older folk cling to their old furniture. They will take it with them from one house to another; usually to smaller houses, to bungalows or to a room ·or two as the family grows up and goes away and old age and infirmity increases.· With each move the furniture grows more unsuited to its surroundings, too big and clumsy by far, and the young people think how odd to prefer these things to the modern stuff so much more suited to their surroundings. Then the young ones go off, themselves acquire homes and start along the same well-worn path. And the old folk, left alone with the familiar things, find something in them far more precious than anyone could know; memories of children and friends, of old joys and sorrows, every line and scar with a story behind it, every fine polished surface the record of their own youthful vigour. For Time, the artist, is at work again, and this is perhaps his last, best gift to them.”

— Charles Hayward, The Woodworker magazine, 1936

Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Meanwhile In The Next Room: Tuning Up The Ripple Molding Machine

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 8:14am

While I was occupied with the Roubo bench slab in the center hall of the barn John was a dozen feet away in the classroom tinkering with the Winterthur ripple molding cutter.  When we gathered earlier as a group we identified a number of modifications that might serve to transform it into a reliable, precision machine.  I ordered all the materials and supplies we thought we needed for this undertaking so everything was ready to go for John to dive in to making these modifications a reality.

As a moment of review, the ripple molding machine is simply a contoured scraper being drawn across a length of wood, with either the scraper or the workpiece being undulated by some sort of linear pattern.  In short, a ripple molding is the result of controlled chatter.

In the case of this machine it is the cutter that remains fixed relative to the length of the frame, but which undulates up-and-down via a horizontal “follower” rod affixed to the cutterhead frame, pressing down on the pattern running the length of the machine frame.  We found in our earlier efforts that either the pattern or the follower ere being degraded and even destroyed by the very process of creating the moldings.

I do not know how this problem was dealt with historically, but for our applications we decided to replace the extant follower rod with a new rod and tiny roller bearings to instead ride along the pattern, transferring the up-and-down impulse without friction to the cutterhead.  John spent extensive time retrofitting the cutterhead to accommodate this modification without damaging or changing irrevocably the machine as it was presented to me.

After installing the new follower system John reported to me with a grand smile that it as a perfect solution to the problem, and would guide our design considerations as we move forward with new machines in both our futures.



Packing Gaps with Hide Glue

Journeyman's Journal - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 7:10am

You may look at the photos and say wow dude that looks like crap. Sure does and intentionally.  I purposefully made some gaps in these dovetails as an experiment to see if Hot Hide Glue would fill up the gaps.

I filled the gaps with saw dust first and then covered the surface with the glue.  It took somewhere between 30-60 mins before the glue hardened.  I know from experience with liquid hide that it should remain gummy for a couple of day if left on the surface, I think the urea has something to with the slow curing but I’m not entirely sure.  However, this isn’t the case with HHG and I actually didn’t know that before.

The glue has been hardening for about 5 hours now and I didn’t want to wait till tomorrow to see how it’s going.  So I’ve done the finger nail test and pressed into the gap. Sure enough it’s rock solid.

I know it’s appalling and none of us ever wants our dovetails to turn out like this, but it is nice to know that on the off chance we make a small blunder and have a small gap nothing as big as this I hope, that if packed with a little bit of saw dust covered with HHG that it will work.  I also sanded most of the glue away and the glue is still holding the dust as it seeped through the gaps and solidified the dust.

Well another effective examination wrapped up, another myth demystified and something new learned.



Categories: Hand Tools

Arts and Crafts classics at The Wilson

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 5:45am

Making Things Work

Please note: The following images are snapshots I took during my visit to The Wilson. They are used here with explicit permission, which required a lot of work and a fee, as described in a previous post. I respectfully request that you avoid gaily copying and using them for your own purposes.

The research for my book on English Arts and Crafts furniture (scheduled for publication by Popular Woodworking in May 2018) entailed a visit to England last winter. Aside from immersing myself anew in the architecture and scenery of the beautiful land that produced the Arts and Crafts movement, I needed to take measurements from a chair designed by C.F.A. Voysey in 1898.

While waiting for my appointment with the chair, I took myself on a tour of the museum’s other furniture offerings, which are many and awe-inspiring. I was especially interested in seeing details of how these classic…

View original post 140 more words

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Book Giveaway: Canopy Kings Treehouse Book

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 5:38am
perfect treehouse

Don’t miss tonight’s airing of “The Canopy Kings” TV show pilot featuring “The Perfect Treehouse” author Django Kroner and his crew of treehouse builders. Django’s treehouses are amazing and the book he created with us is filled with great advice for building your own treehouse (whether it’s a backyard build for the kids or a weekend getaway in the woods). Make sure to check out “The Canopy Kings” on Animal Planet […]

The post Book Giveaway: Canopy Kings Treehouse Book appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

M&T Shop Building: Frame Complete!

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 3:38am

Yesterday we completed the frame. Matt suspended the ridge into place while Luke, John, and Isaac began assembling the round cedar rafters from one gable end. Luke said the first pair of rafters is the hardest, especially when they have diagonal braces and a collar tie to be installed along with them. After that gable end was secured, though, the rest popped into place without issue. As they worked through down the ridge, the manual lift help stabilize it and hold it at the optimum height (decreasing as they went along). This careful and methodical process was really impressive to watch. The whole process took several hours of careful adjustments and minor paring of the tails that were a hair too wide for their pockets.

By midafternoon the last gable was installed. We drove pegs into all the joinery and then the crew made tiny adjustments before heading out while Mike and I began preparations for the evening’s feast. At 6:00, the crew returned for the ceremonial tacking of the evergreen bough onto the ridge. Thus began the feasting.

We had a lovely candlelit dinner inside the frame, watching an incredible sunset over our pond. The frame was illuminated pink and purple from the awesome display. As the sun faded for the day, we sat down for a lasagna dinner and had a wonderful evening of fellowship with them and their partners. The night involved Dave Brubeck, children reciting Shakespeare, and many laughs around the table. As everyone packed up to drive home for the night, I felt like pinching myself. I am so grateful for this crew (my new friends) and the frame that they’ve restored for us. Luke, Matt, Isaac, and John are not only exceptional craftsmen but they are incredible people to spend time with. Mike and I are left inspired by the experience.

Today, Luke, Isaac, Matt, and I will be nailing the old sheathing onto the roof and laying tar paper. At that point, their job is all done and they will head back to Vermont. Mike and I will take it from there.

- Joshua


Categories: Hand Tools


Giant Cypress - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 3:08am


Stanley 2358 miter box......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/22/2017 - 1:26am
Finally did something with the miter box. It has been gathering dust since I bought earlier this year. I decided to see if I could get it together and start making sawdust with it. I had bought it already rehabbed for $$$ I don't remember and I had bought it for this reason and that it was complete.

almost forgot this
The last saw I sent out didn't have this shipping info in the inside of the box and I almost lost it in the USPS system. I unscrewed the lid to put the to/from in it and I found that I had deleted the shipping address I had gotten as an email. I will have to wait to get it again and this will most likely go out on saturday.

all the parts are here
This is what the seller told me. All the parts except for the saw but I already had one. In fact I bought another miter box saw I for $25. I'll be trying that one out in the box first.

axle hitch grease
I spread some grease on this and the same part on the swinging arm.

not lining up
I got the bolt holding the arm screwed in but the front end isn't aligned. There are two pins here, one large and one small that are the problem.

the angle detent
This is what is not lining up for me and not giving me a happy face. There is a small pin on the arm that falls into the detent to lock the arm. It isn't even close to lining up.

the smaller pin is for the angle detent
I didn't know what the larger pin is for right now. I thought maybe it was a bearing surface for possibly keeping the arm at a certain spacing between itself and the half circle with the detents.

the light bulb came on when I saw this.
I was preparing to take the arm apart at this end. I could see that the arm had to go further towards the back to align the detent pin with the detent holes. As I turned this on the side the large pin moved to this position. This obviously hooks on the half circle somehow and then the detent pin should line up with the detents.

how it has to go on
The hook on the big pin goes on the half circle on this end (or the other one). Doing this by myself was incredibly awkward and a huge, huge, PITA. I was swearing so much at this that even I was blushing. I tried raising it up on my gluing helpers but they won't high enough. Hanging it off the bench didn't work because the arm was at the 45°. I didn't have enough arms and hands to do it horizontally and still see what I was doing.  I finally got some joy with standing it vertically on one end. It wasn't ideal but I was able to get the arm hooked on the half circle and the bolt screwed down.

how it goes on
I had this very loose and managed to hold it in a detent while I got the bolt screwed in.

setting the tension
This screw sets how tight the big pin hook is pulled down onto the half circle groove it turns in. If you tighten it down too much, it pulls the detent pin down too. I tightened it to where it first started to pull the detent pin down and backed it off a 1/4 turn. I'll have to use it for a while until to get a feel for it before I change it.

I had taken this off first thinking it might have been interfering with setting the arm. It didn't and has nothing to do with positioning the arm in any way. I screwed it back down and set it on zero.

the base feet are toast
Only three of the legs touch the bench. I won't be able to screw this to an auxiliary base until I straighten them out and get a 'four' point contact.

$25 saw
It fits and it doesn't fit. This is as far as the saw will drop which makes it good for only sawing air.

found some help
The 2x4 raised the bed up high enough that I could saw a piece of scrap. The saw behaved much better than I expected. The sawing action was smooth and easy.  I was able to hold the stock and not have the saw grab and move it. The saw is also sharp and easily went through the stock with no hesitation at all.

multiple saw cuts
I only made one 90° and a bunch of 45° cuts (all from the right side). The face of the cut isn't a planed surface but the roughness of it isn't terrible. I would put it above a 80 grit sandpaper feel and below a 120 grit. I would be alright with using stock off the saw with this box.

this is a pretty good lucking dry fitted 45°
I can definitely live with this
supposed to have two of these
This is part of the system for setting the depth of the saw cut. I took off the two of them (one set on the front and rear saw posts) to see if I could get the $25 saw to sit deeper. It did nothing for that and I lost the back one. I unscrewed the back one by reaching over from the front and I dropped the screw which fell on the deck and this which landed where?

I checked under the bench where I keep the planes and hadn't fallen there. I swept the floor and piled the shavings up and sifted through them trying to find it. No joy. I then ran a magnet through it and I only found that my #6 screws I used on the shipping box are magnetic. I didn't find what I was looking for.

look what I found

I was screwing the parts back on the saw guide post when I saw it. There much tumultuous joy and dancing in Mudville.

what is this?

they are laying flat here
I didn't check it but I can't imagine the cast iron base on the miter saw not being flat. I was hoping one foot would be high making it easy to fix. It looks like I'll be putting them on, banging on them, until it lays flat. I'll try that tomorrow because now it's shop quitting time. Wrestling with the arm trying to get it on took more time than I thought.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did Francis Crick and James Watson find in 1953?
answer - they are credited with discovering the DNA double helix


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