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My latest woodworking project. Vanity in the newly remodeled bathroom. Wood – Cherry
time to celebrate.......
It is 99.9% official - my mortgage is finally paid off. I'll get the last 0.1% when I get the deed in the mail. It took the bank 3 days to post my payment and for them to post the refund to my checking account. I still don't understand the refund but I'm not arguing with them about it. The bank ain't going to give me any money that they could have any possibility of keeping. It was a nice feeling to see all zeroes in every category on the mortgage statement page.
To celebrate my wife and I went out to lunch at Gregg's. Today was friday but I didn't have fish 'n chips. Instead I bucked the system and had a hamburger with grilled onions and mushrooms. I washed that down with 3 glasses of diet coke. There are 3 things that the doc said I should avoid - carbonated drinks, caffeine, and alcohol. But today was special as I don't anticipate having to pay down another mortgage again.
one down, one to go |
No hiccups with either of the drawers. I don't think I'll have any problems with just white glue keeping the slips where they belong.
paid attention |
I was worried that I would screw this up and get the sapwood low and high. Ten years ago I wouldn't have thought to have the grain run R to L. With the sapwood streaks this would look like crap if it didn't flow R to L or L to R.
measuring sticks |
Not a good space to try and use a measuring tape/rule. I have a ton of these scraps of pine to use and FYI they are almost impossible to screw up. The other drawer bottom is about an 1/8" wider. I couldn't see any difference in the drawer fronts though.
I almost wet myself |
I was so happy with this that I could have wet myself repeatedly without caring. The gap on the bottom of the single drawer is a pencil line. Yeah. I thought it was a dreaded gap. The two dual drawers look fantastic. I planed them till they fit in their openings. Since this is winter and contraction season, I'll have to plane a gap on the top of these along with a wee bit on the sides.
almost an oops |
Before I can glue up the 4" single drawer I have to make the drawer slips for it. I need the slips made so I know how much of the back bottom I have to saw off.
better than I expected |
I had visions of a total horror show gluing this up square. I was expecting to have to use a clamp diagonally to hold it square. Before I glued it up I was tempted to use hide glue for this but opted for white instead. The white glue sets up quicker and the thought was I could get it squared up and hold it and it would set/hold quicker then hide glue would. I got and kept it square by shifting/skewing the clamps.
dry fit |
The drawer had been clamped for several hours by the time I got the slips dry fitted. My wife and I went out and did a drive around after lunch. Got back to the shop late for the PM session.
fingers crossed |
My track record for following labels isn't that good. I doubt my batting average for it is in double digits. I labeled this the same way I do for through dovetails and I do pretty good with paying attention to that labeling. Hopefully the X will spark something in my brain bucket.
4" single drawer |
I thought I would have gotten all three of the 4" drawers at least glued up today but that didn't happen. I am ok with just the single being done.
4" dual drawer sides |
The goal for tomorrow is to finish these two and get the 5" single drawer made and fitted.
accidental woodworker
My 2023 Year in Review
https://wordpress.com/annual-report/journeymansjournel.wordpress.com/2023/
I had no idea my blog is so successful. Imagine all those people that gained benefit from it.
Convo
I took some time yesterday from our year-end festivities to chat with my longtime friend Brian Wilson on his “Now For Something Completely Different” show, where we engage in some high-altitude societal imaging and analysis.
If it is the sort of chatter you might find interesting between two radical rabble rousers, give it a listen.
Warning: not safe for the faint of heart.
Is a cheaper plane worth it?
Following on from the previous post, I thought it would be interesting to look at differing costs between more premium planes and lower-end planes. In the table below I have included a range of low-angle block planes from varying manufacturers. Differentiating planes is achieved by means of price, and construction characteristics. Most planes have a body made of ductile iron, but it is hard to tell the quality of the casts without performing some sort of destructive testing. The adjustment mechanisms range in quality depending on materials, and machining. Finally, lower priced planes tend to have more generic, high-carbon type blades.
There are three price tiers in the table below: high, medium, and low. On the upper tier are HE and LN planes which cost more in part because they contain a good amount of bronze. The HE is a block plane for those who like pure bronze tools. Both planes are made in countries with higher wages, and likely better quality raw materials. With companies like LN, materials and workmanship are also guaranteed for the life of the tool. Veritas (Lee Valley) also produces exceptional quality planes at a marginally lower cost (possibly to do with larger economies of scale), having it sit in the mid-tier price-wise. What is evident is that there is little price difference between the likes of Wood River (WR) and Veritas planes – in fact the Veritas plane is only US$13 more. For that US$13 you are getting a Canadian made plane with bronze adjustment mechanisms, a better quality blade, a better casting, and more ergonomic finger grips. The WR plane is basically an amalgam of the Stanley No.65 low angle and No.18 standard angle knuckle-lever cap designs (the knuckle-lever isn’t really the most effective mechanism around), with little in the way of innovation.
Cost (US$) | Body | Parts, e.g. cap lever | Blade | Weight | Manufactured | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Henry Eckert (HE) No.60½ | $243 | bronze | bronze | PM-10V | 1250g | Australia |
Lie Nielsen (LN) No.60½ | $187 | ductile iron | bronze | A2 | 680g | USA |
Veritas (LV) LA | $143 | ductile iron | iron, bronze | A2 | 790g | Canada |
Wood River (WR) LA | $130 | ductile iron | chrome-plated steel | high carbon | 925g | China |
Melbourne Tool Co. (MT) LA | $95 | ductile iron? | brass | M2 HSS | 750g | China |
Stanley Sweetheart (S) No.60½ | $80 | ductile iron | brass | A2 | 1150g | Mexico |
If you want a classic Stanley-style plane then buy a vintage one. A vintage Stanley No.18 goes anywhere from US$70-100, and a No.65 around $US100-130. Sure it may need some TLC, and the chrome may not be shiny, but it is a quality tool that has stood the test of time. At the low-end of the scale are Melbourne Tool, and Stanley. I actually think the Melbourne Tool Company plane is much better positioned from a price perspective than the WR. It is a nicer looking plane as well, although I don’t know if there are any true design innovations here. Comparing it to the Stanley, it’s price-point may be a higher than it should be, but Stanley has the advantage of larger production runs and lower manufacturing costs (manufacturing labour costs are 19% higher in China compared to Mexico, and shipping is cheaper as well).
Now some people don’t want to pay more for a premium plane, and that’s fair enough. Higher costs may be indicative of a more small-scaled production, quality materials, and a high-quality manufacturing process. Lower cost is sometimes an indicator that the quality of the materials may not of the same standard, or production costs, i.e. wages, are lower (although by many estimates costs aren’t that much lower than manufacturing in the USA). Ultimately though when you take all these factors into account, the difference between the lower and higher ends of the spectrum does rest in where they are manufactured. Remember, sometimes it’s important to support local companies that are making a genuine product.
P.S. From what I have read, if you are looking for a bargain block plane, then the Stanley may actually be the best option. However they are almost impossible to source in Canada, but you can find them at Home Depot in the US.
P.P.S. If you are buying a Wood River block plane in Canada, they sell for C$216, whereas the Veritas low-angle sells for C$195 – you do the math.
Let the Shape of the Shaving Be Your Guide
Keep the Plane Mouth Clear
Certainly keeping the mouth of the plane clear will prevent it from clogging. But it also allows you to observe the shape of the shaving. The location of the shaving in the mouth as well as it's shape tells you a lot about the pass you just took. It tell you about the topography of the board and how to adjust your plane strokes when flattening. It tells you where the plane just cut which can be super useful when squaring the edge of a board. Mostly it is just observing the feedback the plane gives you so that you get to flatter boards and smoother surface faster without just planing away blindly. Hand plane work is only slow when we don't pay attention and take too many passes then have to take more passes to fix what we just over planed. Let the shape of the shaving be your guide!
Master Hand Sawing
Forget this hand planing junk!
THE MOST IMPORTANT skill to master that will make all your other woodworking go smoother.
The post Let the Shape of the Shaving Be Your Guide appeared first on The Renaissance Woodworker.
making drawers pt III......
Got confirmation that I ain't making 3 drawers a day. I'm going out on a limb and saying 2 days maybe 2 1/2 days now. And that is just gluing the drawers up. Fitting them to their respective openings will come after I do all 15 drawers. There is no rush on this and probably won't go to Amanda until maybe spring at the earliest. I already have a couple of projects in mind after the dresser is done. One of them is a small table to put the Keurig coffee maker on along with storage for K cups.
patch set up |
I had thought of doing the patch so its grain was 90 to the side. Instead the patch's grain runs the same as the side.
it is square |
I made the dado 3/16" deep which left a 1/8" web between the new dado and the patch. I had to trim the length of the back by a strong 16th to square between the sides.
the patch |
I got a tight, snug fit with the patch. I entertained moving the dado back and forward. I was concerned about the strength and integrity of the side if I made a new dado directly opposite the patch. It is strong and I tried to break the side with my hands at the patch and nada. I think it will be ok as drawer side.
changed the knobs |
I couldn't get past how huge the knobs looked like on the bottom 3 drawers. I also changed the knobs for the top 3 drawers. They didn't fit the scale of those drawers. The first two banks have the same size knobs with the 3rd set of drawers going up in size. The last two banks have the same size too - those are 1 1/4". They are the only sizes I know for sure. I did the knob sizing by eye.
dry fitting the slips |
While the dual drawers are cooking I rough fitted the slips. After the drawers had cooked for a few hours I glued in the slips.
two glued and cooking |
The drawer is too small to glue in all 3 slips at once. I glued in the front first and after 20 minutes I glued in one side slip.
next single drawer |
I laid out this drawer without any double knifing. Feels kind of strange not doing tails on both ends of the side boards.
pin board |
I don't over saw my half blinds. I personally don't like the over cut saw kerfs below the baselines. I tried it once and I didn't see a huge difference between my way and over sawing them.
getting better |
I tightened up the tails in the pin sockets and made improvements in the half pins. Still not gap free (left half pin) but I'll take this. The tails/pins are getting better with each drawer I do.
even better |
These tails/pins look good. The half pins are closing up and fingers crossed that I continue on down this road with the remaining 11 drawers.
fitting the back |
I set the pinch rods (at the back) to the inside distance at the front. The thin scrap is the 'measuring stick' so I don't confuse myself reading a tape measure. I double triple checked the stick a bazillion times to make sure there weren't any stray pencil marks on it before using it.
back fitted |
This is a dry fit and I didn't get this drawer glued and cooking today. This drawer is going to bite me on the arse come glue up time. I spent several frustrating minutes trying to square this up dry. I gave trying to square it from the outside corners and switched to inside corners. I will have to clamp this diagonally to hold it square because dry it would slowly move out of square.
doesn't fit |
The last time I did inset drawers they didn't come out to my liking. The drawers came out loose and with uneven margins. So far having it oversized has helped with the fitting. The first single drawer at the top is the best fit I've gotten on a inset drawer. Like everything else in life and woodworking, you have to put the time in on the pond.
opposite side slips |
Glued up the last two side slips on the dual drawers. Tomorrow I'll fit the bottoms and rough plane them to fit their respective drawer openings.
Killed the lights here but I made good progress on the drawers today. I'm hoping that I can get two bottoms out of one single drawer bottom. I think I can as the dual drawers combined aren't as wide as a single drawer.
accidental woodworker
making drawers......
It would seem that my estimate for making these drawers was overly optimistic. 3 days into it and I only have one drawer finished. I thought I would be able to knock out 3 a day but that ain't happening. I might get close to that when I get to the last 3 though. We'll have to wait and see what shakes out.
in my favor |
I got confused with what to mark on which board again. In the end it turned out in my favor - the bottom knife line is the one I needed.
first single drawer glued up |
Used white glue on this and I had to fiddle with it a bit to get it square. I got it to be less than a 16th and called it done.
dry fitting the slips |
I left the right side slip long. I will do the final length on that after I get the opposite side and front slips glued in place. I planed and sanded a small round over on the tops of the slips to remove the square arris.
gap |
When I first started doing through dovetails, I had a hard time getting my half pins to close up. I'm having the same headache with my half blinds so far.
left dual drawer |
The sides are barely a snug fit and the drawer front wouldn't go any further than this. I was expecting this and I will plane it to fit after it has been glued and cooked.
single fitted |
On the dry fit the drawer dropped into the opening ok. After being glued and cooked the side to side was too much. Took a few dance steps with a plane before I got it to fit. Not happy with the gap on the drawer. The gap on the bottom is what I wanted to be on the top. I haven't planed the drawer front yet and I'll hold off on it until I get the two dual drawers done.
Lowes luan plywood |
I think the price of this came down. I'm pretty sure the last quarter sheet I bought was $17 - today it was 12 and change. I wanted to buy a 1/2 sheet but they didn't have any. After Lowes I had to run a few more errands and I didn't get back to the shop until the PM session.
slips cooking |
The pieces of plywood are to keep the slips aligned while the glue sets.
still confused |
Still don't have a handle on what knife line gets struck on which board. The rabbet I am doing on the sides ain't helping to keep it straight neither. I have 12 more drawers to try and make it muscle memory.
I have all the dovetailing done on the first 3 drawers. All of them have one or more gaps on the half pins. My goal is to have them all look like the right one. The left one has a gap but it is closing up.
first oops |
Plowed the dado on the wrong face of the side. I didn't mark it and I was thinking ten steps ahead of this when I plowed it.
not symmetrical |
Even though I laid them out the same - half pins 5/16" and a 1/4" space between the tails. With the side flipped 180 they tails/pins don't line up.
gaps on everything |
The only part of this that doesn't have gaps are the tail slopes. It is still self supporting so maybe the glue will swell and close it up some more.
doesn't fit |
At least this part of the fitting is behaving as expected. Now that I can see the dual drawers, I'm liking the size. I wasn't sure that these would be large enough for clothes. This is the 3" drawer and the other four increase in height.
I had an extra |
I had a spare side for the 3" drawers and knifed the mistake one onto it.
)_^*&^$%&*@_)%*_@ |
This confirms that I shouldn't be allowed to have sharp, pointy objects to play with. A big X on the face to plow the dado, and the idiot that I am, I plowed it on the opposite face. Had the same headache with the tails not being symmetrical so I couldn't.....
it got flying lessons |
Along with free flight lessons I also introduced it to Mr Lally Column. This is/was the replacement side now made partially suitable for kindling.
the original side |
Glued in a dutchman in the errant dado and I'll let it set up until tomorrow. As of now the plan is to plow a shallower dado on the correct face - 1/8 to 3/16" deep. Another option fighting to get my attention is to fill in the dado on the other side and plow two new dadoes closer to the back.
the single drawer |
Got the bottom fitted but not glued in the slips. I wanted to end the PM session on a positive note. The size of the bottom is 12 1/2 x 13 3/4 inches. Not a multiple that will yield multiple bottoms from a quarter or 1/2 sheet of plywood. I will only get one bottom from the piece of plywood I had in the shop and 6 bottoms from the two quarter sheets I bought from Lowes today.
still fits |
It isn't going to take much plane work to sweeten up the margins on this drawer. Inset drawers look better to my eye than overlay ones. I think the extra calorie count is worth it.
thinking out loud |
I have five banks of drawers and 5 different size shaker knobs. I have enough knobs of one size to do all 15 and I'll have to think on that. I don't particularly like the 3 largest knobs for the bottom 3 drawers. I also don't have a warm and fuzzy about the 3 smallest ones - they appear to be too small. Sounds like the three bears and Goldilocks. Plenty of time to think about it.
accidental woodworker
Small Dresser 1
After thinking about my next project I decided on a small dresser. I tried to read the difference between a dresser and a chest of drawers, but that was a waste of time.
The focus is on ‘small’ for a few reasons. First is my kids already have dressers, so this is just extra storage space. Also I plan to make full size dressers in the future, so this can be practice. Lastly I am trying to use my current stock of wood without having to go to the lumberyard. I like the lumberyard but going there and back is an all day affair.
My most plentiful wood is poplar and I have a few sycamore boards waiting for a project. So the plan is poplar sides and top with sycamore drawer fronts. I’m not sure if that’s a good pairing, but if I don’t like it I can always paint the poplar.
At first I was worried I didn’t have leg pieces at 1.5″ or more thick. Then I saw some C. Becksvoort pictures where he used thinner boards on the sides with a toekick, not needing thick legs.
I spent time drawing and measuring but at some point had to get started. I tried to limit the height to around 28″ so it could fit under a window. I only had four sycamore boards, which limited the number of drawers. And the shortest sycamore board was 32″ long, which limited the width.
There are a couple issues working with the sycamore. One is that not all sections have the desirable speckling. Another is that there is an obvious change from sapwood to heartwood. I thought about ripping them into pieces of only sapwood and only heartwood, but that would make them too narrow. I decided to orient them so matching colors would be adjacent to each other. I thought that would look nicer than each drawer having sapwood at the top and heartwood at the bottom.
The first step would be to crosscut poplar for the top and sides. I had one piece of poplar already 37″, so cut two other pieces to match.
Between high spots, low spots, and not-square edges, jointing took longer than I expected.
When satisfied, I glued with Titebond III glue and clamped overnight.
The next day I made two sides by the same routine. The top I made oversize, knowing I might rip a few inches off the front or back and still have a useful offcut. The sides were made closer to finished size.
After removing clamps I found one of the sides had significant cup.
If the convex part goes inward, it might interfere with the drawers. If it is oriented outwards, the drawers may be too loose in the openings. I don’t need it to be perfect, but I will have to work on it. I’m not sure if I will plane down the high spots or saw through the glue line and rejoint and reglue it.
My goal is to make the case first, then work on the drawers. I am not too familiar with making casework with dividers and runners and so on, so will have to read and think about what order to do things in.