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@big_sand_woodworking going to town on this log. This is much easier than it looks. Because Japanese saws. #nyckez
In the current August issue of Furniture and Cabinetmaking Magazine (UK) is an article of mine about building accurate angled jigs. A customer from England has commissioned me in the last few years to build four custom Donkey Ears for his Vogt Shooting Board with the No-Rock Runway. He makes multi-sided boxes and the angles have to be exact. In the article I show the process step by step and give general tips on jig making.
I didn’t shoot the whole process of making the crest rail for the bedstead. But at the nearly-last minute I thought to get out the camera. The crest is a separate piece, sitting atop the integral top rail of the headboard.
I carved the design first. Then used a small bowsaw/turning saw to cut out the profile. I shot a couple photos during the clean-up of the sawn shape. The outline I cut with the V-tool as part of the carving. Then sawed pretty close to that.
I used whatever I could get in there with to smooth off the sawn bits and bring the profile to its final shape. A couple of spokeshaves, chisels and even a bent gouge.
Here it is test-fitted. The crest rail is 56″ long and 7″ high at the center.
And a detail:
I chopped two mortises in both the top rail and the crest rail, for floating tenons to help align and secure them. Part of the inspiration for it is the crest of a wainscot chair I have made a few times. I assembled the most recent version of this chair back in April, https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2017/04/26/wainscot-chair-assembly/
I doubt (well, am damn-near dead certain) that the original chair(s) had no floating tenon between the top rail and crest. I have made and lost some crests by using the typical period construction (nails and sometimes a wooden pin between the parts) – so for the bedstead I have used what you see pictured in the chair photo here.
by David Picciuto pages 50-51 From the April 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine Practice a centuries-old technique on this small contemporary piece. Found on everything from refined 18th-century highboys to muscled Arts & Crafts tables, breadboard ends are a handsome and time-tested way to prevent wooden panels from warping over time. Correctly made, breadboard ends not only keep panels flat, but also allow them to expand and contract with […]
On my lunch break I spent most of it searching for how to determine the size of the astragals. The definition of it for a plane is a bead with a fillet on either side of it. In my old catalogs (last quarter of the 1800's) the smallest size listed is a 1/4" and the largest is 1 1/2". After 1900's, none of the catalogs I have list an astragal smaller than 3/8".
I checked the 4 books I have on wooden planes and none of them have astragals in them. The only molding planes that the authors write about making are hollows and rounds. The one book I have on molding planes only deals with how to rehab and use them. There weren't any write ups on figuring out what size astragal a plane is. Or for that matter, determining the size of any molder.
|measuring my astragals|
|the astragal I just bought|
|3rd astragal measures a 1/2" also|
|not my biggest one|
|I can barely make it out|
The last astragal I have in the herd is a 7/8" one (no size mark on the plane). I had to stop writing the blog and go to the shop and find it. I knew I had five of these planes and I found it on the dump table. It measured 7/8" but had no marks on the heel or toe. Before I buy another one these planes I'll have to ask for a measurement. My grandson and I don't need three 1/2" astragals.
|my wrong side knife wall|
|fuzzy pic of the center stile M&T|
|this one got the added piece of pine|
|door is puttied and drying|
|some quick work on the #4|
|this looks pretty but I will go back up to 600 grit again|
|it's almost as shiny looking as my 4 1/2 is|
Tomorrow I'll paint the cabinet and make the french cleat. I'm shooting for a sunday cabinet hanging day.
Who was Garnet Carter?
answer - he patented the game of miniature golf (called Tom Thumb golf) in 1927
Joe from the UK sent me these pictures of his latest project a very nice chest of drawers in ash.
The stand is very imaginative with an oriental feel.
Plenty of dovetails!
It's great to see good use of unusual grain and colour, this sort of stuff would be considered seconds in commercial wood yards.
Finished timber frame joint. #nyckez
More timber frame assembly. #nyckez
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Aug 4, 2017 at 11:37am PDT
Timber frame assembly. #nyckez
@mokuchistudio starting a timber frame assembly. #nyckez
Sharpening stations. #nyckez
I had turned the heavy slab over to the rough side, so I decided to work on it first and got an unpleasant surprise. The now much dryer slab was decidedly more prone to tearout. Cracks had open up and these tended to widen with anything but straight on planing. With all of the twists and turns in the grain, especially around the big knots, planing with the grain was impossible. I sharpened my planes very carefully but nothing I tried could avoid deep tearout. Finally I just let it tearout and then used a belt sander for final surfacing. Not very satisfying, but it worked. I was able to avoid all but one dip with the belt sander. The slab is currently 2 3/8" thick so I have removed 3/4" of material!
Douglas-fir is obviously not the ideal species to make a table slab from because it is so soft and prone to tearout. However, this is what we wanted--it is after all the Oregon state tree--so we just have to accept its challenges. I've come to understand that a 37" wide live edge douglas-fir slab with lots of knots in it isn't going to resemble fine furniture and that this is part of its aesthetic. Now that I look at these slabs in pubs and restaurants more closely, I see that they are all that way.
I almost went over to the dark side. Surfacing this slab clearly showed why the standard way is attractive. If you build rails along the sides of the slab and then make a sled for a powered router to ride in across the slab, you can get a flat slab with little or no tearout and not a whole lot of hard work. I didn't do this, but it was at the cost of many hours of hard work and a slab that isn't perfectly flat, although it's close. Once I get this side done, I have to turn the slab over and do the other side again.
This project has turned out to be far more challenging than I thought it would be. Just about everything I thought would work didn't. Looking back, I should have done more research. So, in the interest of saving you from my fate, I am going to go over some things I learned in the next few posts.
Super wide chisel that @joshvillegas94 uses for the final step in making the front of the throats of a Japanese plane. 54mm, baby! #nyckez
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Aug 4, 2017 at 9:04am PDT
@joshvillegas94 doesn’t know you can’t use Japanese chisels on hardwoods. #nyckez
When I think about the furniture in my own house, I guess the best word to describe the mix of stuff we own is eclectic. We’ve inherited period furniture from grandparents, picked up interesting pieces at odd home emporiums and have our share of IKEA stuff. So when adding a piece of furniture my wife and I often lean toward contemporary furniture – something simple in design that could go with […]
A post shared by Wilbur Pan (@wilburpan) on Aug 4, 2017 at 8:11am PDT
@joshvillegas94 in action at #nyckez .
Plane making tools that @joshvillegas94 uses.