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2-day Class Came and Went

Paul Sellers - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 1:08pm

I did enjoy preparing for the 2-day class last week but it is always a lot more work than I anticipate, mostly because I am I am no longer solely dedicated to what was a dedicated woodworking school. I think running a school may well be more an over expectation carried over from a past into what …

Read the full post 2-day Class Came and Went on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Oliver Sparks Thumb Plane.

David Barron Furniture - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 11:04am

When I returned from the Yandles show I had a nice surprise waiting. A beautiful thumb plane made by Oliver Sparks. 

I ordered this a while ago and Ollie's idea was to produce his interpretation of a rare Mathieson plane, I can't imagine the original was as nice as this.

There are curves and chamfers all round and that lever cap is just stunning.

This is a step up in size from the 'Slipper' plane I bought from Ollie, it's 6 1/2" wide and has a 1 1/2" wide blade, a perfect size for trimming and smoothing. This plane has been designated 'Aero'. The mouth is as tight as a gnats whisker!

Ollie made a batch of five in varying woods and metal and has two left. If you're interested the cost is £1800 and you can contact him via his website http://oliversparks.co.uk/gallery.html

Categories: Hand Tools

Don’t Close Your Eyes to the Square

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 9:21am

When people injure themselves in the shop, their first reaction is to grab the wound and refuse to look. Sadly, this is the same attitude many woodworkers take with the squareness of their components: They refuse to look and hope things will work out. While there are lots of areas of woodworking where squareness doesn’t matter (stick chairs, for one), if you are going to build rectilinear boxes and hope […]

The post Don’t Close Your Eyes to the Square appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

@Handworks 2017 – Roubo Print #238

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 7:26am

Today’s offering is another of Roubo’s many Valentine’s Cards to Geometry and layout, “How to Draw a Full-scale Pattern of the Curve of a Seat.”  Without the use of digital calculators and computerized plotters it was necessary to compose an x-y exercise in order to obtain curvilinear shapes from which the patterns and templates for sinuous forms could be derived.  Deriving the text for these plates was a bear, but the images themselves are elegant in a spare, modernist sorta way.  I particularly enjoy seeing lines from the construct being shown outside the boundaries of the image.

The print has a crisp plate mark and is in excellent condition, with one very minor stain near the upper right corner, and was been removed from the First Edition bound volume with comparative care.

It was both drawn and engraved by Roubo.

If you have ever wanted to own a genuine piece of Rouboiana, this is your chance.   I will be selling this print at Handworks on a first-come basis, with terms being cash, check, or Paypal if you have a smart phone and can do that at the time of the transaction.


See how the Men's Final Four court is made!

Giant Cypress - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 6:18am
See how the Men's Final Four court is made!:

The NCAA’s are over, but here’s a multimedia article on how the court is put together, from harvesting the trees to final assembly. The most surprising thing to me is that the article implies that it’s just 144 days from chopping the maple trees down to the end product. Given what we woodworkers know about drying wood (it looks like the boards sawn from the maple trees are 4/4 or 5/4), that’s a pretty impressive turnaround time.

The French Cleat: A Great Way to Hang Cabinets or Shelving

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 5:00am
French Cleat Wine Rack

You may already know about the French cleat, but if you haven’t heard of it, this neat trick is a great simple way to hang cabinets, wall racks or shelving. In this excerpt below, Popular Woodworking’s very own David Thiel explains how he used this simple yet effective method of wall-mounting to hang a wine rack  – a project that is featured in the new book “Simple & Stylish Woodworking: 20 Projects for Your Home.” […]

The post The French Cleat: A Great Way to Hang Cabinets or Shelving appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

another seashore shop night......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 04/12/2017 - 12:29am
I don't have anything cooking that needs my undivided attention now. Everything I have going in the shop I can leave or take as much time with as I want, if I want to finish it. I think it has to do with the last two days being absolutely top notch in my corner of the universe. Spring is almost here and the temp today hit 80°F at my house (27°C) which I think broke the record of 79°F set in 1955. I don't know what the official temp at Green Airport was but I'll find out tomorrow.

My wife bought a bookcase because she said she didn't want to wait for me to make one. She bought a knock down, vinyl covered sawdust and glue piece of crappola that she threw away. 6 of the 8 corner screws blew out so there was no way it could be put together. I told her no that I could not screw or glue it together. I am now making her a bookcase but she won't tell what style etc she wants but I know when it's done, it won't be to her liking. I've heard I'll like whatever you make too many times go south.  I'll get the wood for it and my computer work desk at the same time.

My split and repaired leg computer desk is working very well and instead of making the real one out of plywood, I am going to use solid wood. I would show pics of it in action but I am not allowed to take pics at work. I did not know that until it was pointed out to me.

awaiting the unclamping
I removed each clamp by turning it less than a full turn and it came off. The bookcase didn't relax or expand, nor was there are creaking or groaning. I take this as a sign that my joinery was good and the carcass stayed square as the glue set.

molded edge
I think this is just right and fits the scale of the shelf. I'm rethinking cutting the corners off at an angle because this look is growing on me. I will saw an angle on the test piece I molded so I can see what it looks like.

piece of maple
I can not see a big enough difference between the poplar and the maple 'white' color wise. The slats are at the back and with a full shelf of books, won't be seen. I might have used maple but the only maple stock I have is 3/8" thick. That is too thin to provide adequate support for the books.

this thought went south
I was thinking of not putting on the bases but sawing a small cutout on the bottom. With the angles I already have done, it would look off kilter. I would have to saw an angle on both ends and hope that they came out the same to harmonize it.

the angles look better sitting on the base
I could rent out that space to park cars
A drawer will be made to fill up this space. The next question is do I make it square or taper it to fit the space? I put the walnut bookshelf aside for now and turned to other things.

squared and got the box parts to length
from R to L
The right one was done first and it is smooth. The second one from the right is kind of chewed up and the last two are torn out. They are all square but not all smooth like the right one.

This is the tannic acid and I have mold are something else growing in it. It is also a lot darker than I remember it being in december. Maybe this is why I'm not getting a rich deep black color,

not even close
I put another application of tannic acid and the iron and nothing. Even wet the color is not getting the deep black of the cell phone holder. This will be the last attempt with this tannic acid. I will make a fresh batch and start over again. The iron looks to be done cooking and the tannic acid is mix and use right away.

checking my router plane sole
I couldn't find any dings or scratches anywhere on the sole itself. The slots in the base are kind a sharp but I couldn't feel any bumps or burrs on them.

a wee bit rough in this area on both sides.
jewelers files
I bought these while I was in the navy and I don't use them that often. I need them now and I have a boatload of profiles to pick from and use.

used a flat and a round file
There were a few small burrs here and I'm not sure if they were in the way or not. I filed this area and the big circular opening too.

filed and sanded the arris on the slot on both sides
I still will spend a few calories sanding and polishing the sole. That will be put on the B list to done whenever.

noticed something tonight
The top and middle box I just made and the bottom box I made in 01/2015.

same detail
I thought the astragal detail and the slant front edge I put on the top two boxes was original. Turns out that it is old news.

my other router plane
This one feels just as good on the sole and the slot up behind the iron has no burrs or other hiccups. The slots for the fence are as sharp as the other router though.

laid out the tails for the next sliding lid box
I blew out a chip on this corner that I have to glue before I continue. It must have happened when I squared the ends.

back to the bases
I am going to biscuit the bottom of the ends to the base. If I use screws I'll be going into the end grain so that isn't an option.  Dowels are another choice but I have never had any luck even lining up two dowels. This would need a minimum of two in each base. Biscuits are the lead off batter.

both ends are close in thickness
They are almost dead nuts flush with each other. You certainly can't see any difference in the thickness by looking at them.

the reveal
Rather than go nutso trying to get an even reveal on both sides, I am going to make the outside reveal the same. The inside reveal will probably be hidden by the drawer so if there is any fudging I'll do it there.

now comes the hard part
Trying to figure out how to get the biscuit slots in the right place on the base and the bottom of the ends is making me feel like I have an IQ that didn't make it out of  the single digits. There is a 3/16" reveal between the outside edge of the base and the edge of the end. I can't seem to wrap my head around how to do it correctly.

make a slot in the base
This one I think should be centered. Check.

do I center the one on the ends?
If I do it this way, will the reveal be the same on both? For some reason I want to use a 3/16" spacer somewhere but would that put the biscuit slot to close to outside edge on the ends? I would like to be able to walk through this in my mind with out hallucinating and having bad dreams at night. I think I will solve it by brute force. I have enough scraps that I can make at least 4 practice runs to figure it out.

I haven't forgotten the clock
I can not get over the fact that this almost $100 movement has plastic @#^(%%$#^^&;@))(*&^$%#@ hands. I ordered more hands from two other clock companies and they don't fit. I'm stuck using the plastic crap that came with movement. I brought the box upstairs and maybe one these nights after the blog is written, I'll cry and put the hands on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state flower of the State of Massachusetts?
answer - the mayflower

Benches for Handworks 1, 2, 3

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 6:49pm

That’s one guy, two workbenches, in three days.

With Handworks barreling down the calendar at breakneck speed I knew I needed to get at least one workbench out to Amana since the space I would be occupying was just an empty square of real estate in the Festhalle.  Plus I had lurking in the back of mind an observation and an unrelated goal.

The first was that the guys who came to the workbench-building workshop last fall found that the system for making the workbench allowed the legs to be installed after relocation home, and de-installed as needed.  Second, I did want to make a workbench to donate to the Library of Congress rare book conservation group.

The self-evident answer was to make a couple of laminated Roubo benches.  Simple, easy, and interruptible while in-progress.   I had to do all the work around the other things going on on the homestead and in the shop, and in the end it took me about 15 hours working alone.

On Day One I spent the morning ripping a stack of 8-foot 2×12 SYP lumber into the pieces I  needed for both the tops and legs.  Normally I do not miss my 3hp Unisaw sitting in the basement of the barn, not yet wired into the electrical system, but this certainly was one of those times.  My smallish 9-inch saw works for about 95% of my needs but this one was at the limit.

Since I now keep my rolling planer stand in the basement I loaded everything into the pickup and drove to the back side of the barn.  I spent most of the afternoon planing all four sides of the lumber to remove the ripples from the industrial sawmill and get the lumber ready for gluing.

I loaded everything back into the truck and hauled it back up to the second (main) floor and brought it in.

A second set of hands would have definitely cut the time for these tasks by at least 1/3, but it was just me.  On to the glue-up.

Last Post On Tool Loaning

Paul Sellers - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 11:27am

It does seem generally that most are agreed that it is too much of a risk to loan out the personal tools you either use in the every day of life or the ones you have grown to rely on to put food on the table. I have never had the luxury of having tools …

Read the full post Last Post On Tool Loaning on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Download Plans for the Staked High Stool

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 7:08am

Several people have asked to purchase plans for the staked high stool design I’ve been refining for the expanded “The Anarchist’s Design Book.”

My answer: No, I won’t sell you the plans, but you can have them for nothing.

Here are the rules: You can download these. Build as many stools as you like. Feel free to sell the stools you build. Here’s what you cannot do with these plans: Sell them or represent them as your own. In other words, don’t be a deT and we’ll be cool.

The sheets were drawn up by reader Josh Cook, who also make this nice 3D render you can play with.

Here’s the cutting list:

1 Seat: 1-3/8” x 11” x 20”
3 Legs: 1-3/8” x 1-3/8” x 25”
1 Front stretcher: 1-3/8” x 1-3/8” x 20-1/2” (cut it long and trim to fit the front legs)
1 Mid stretcher: 1-3/8” x 1-3/8” x 14-3/4” (cut it long and trim to fit)

The resultant angle for the front legs is: 13°. The resultant for the rear leg is: 22°.

The sheets can be downloaded in pdf format here:


My stools are made using Southern yellow pine (a 2x12x8’ will make two stools). For the finish, I charred the parts before assembly using a MAP gas torch and then brushed away the charred earlywood with a stiff acid brush. After assembly, I touched up the joints with the torch and applied two coats of a beeswax and linseed oil concoction (make your own using this recipe).

The techniques for building these stools are covered in detail in “The Anarchist’s Design Book.” So if you’re confused by talk of resultant angles, you might pick up that book or Peter Galbert’s “Chairmaker’s Notebook,” which also explains the geometry.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: The Anarchist's Design Book, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

CNC Skills: Part One – The Origin Point

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 6:34am

CNC Skills: Part One: All about Origin Points The Origin Point is your prime reference position No matter what kind of woodworking you do, reference points and accurate measurements are critically important for woodworkers. This is particularly true when using any kind of woodworking machinery. For example, if you’re using a table saw to rip a board to 4” wide, set your fence to 4”. To set up that fence […]

The post CNC Skills: Part One – The Origin Point appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Woodwright’s Shop DVDs

Wood and Shop - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 6:13am
Well, within a relatively short period of time the episodes started to flow forth onto discs, like dew from heaven.  Around 6 hours of traditional woodworking classes (per season) for around $35...worth every cent! Thank you Popular Woodworking Magazine! I highly doubt it was my letter that engaged the process, but I'm so happy to have this

walnut bookshelf pt III.........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 04/11/2017 - 12:23am
Had an easy night in the shop tonight where I felt like the sea washing up on shore and then slowly falling back. No rhyme or reason guiding me nor anything shouting out to be done. I didn't rush in what I did do but just let unfold. If I got it done ok, if not, ok there too.

started here
I did this first because I remembered a pic from yesterday's post still showing the square line on this end. Most of it was buried but 3/4" of the shelf projects beyond the end and it showed.

have to make the back slats the same length
I used this piece of 1/4" plywood to raise the slats up so the so the iron would be shaving with a new spot on the iron.

without the plywood piece I was getting dust
with the plywood piece - wispy shavings
The iron in the shooter is already dull and needs to be resharpened. This worked for the 1/2" slats but it isn't something I want to do for everything I have to shoot. Maybe I will get a better edge that lasts longer if I sharpen the iron on waterstones. Could be the impetus for making a ramped shooting board too.

decided to do the angles first
I tried to think about sawing the angles after the glue up and it got real ugly in my mind way too quick. I did the cuts now and I'll deal with the clamping when it comes. I did all the layout for the angles based on 2". The front angle starts 2" up from the top of the dado is 2" in from the top front edge. The top angle starts 2" up from the top of the top back slat and ends 2" down from the top front.

I planed the front cuts smooth and square now but I left the top rough as the came off the saw. I'll do them after I glue the bases to the ends.

labeled the top cutoffs
I left these rough because I want that to help keep them from slipping when I use them to clamp the bases on.

first molding choice
I am doing something wrong because the shoulder at the top is tapered. Molding this edge in the walnut was a silky smooth adventure. Easily done, no tear out, no stalling or digging in, one smooth fluid stroke end to end. I was able to fix the taper when I made another practice run on the opposite side. I wasn't shifting pressure to the front end as I moved away from the right going left.

 bigger profile
This is very similar but I don't like the scale of it. I am going with the first one I picked.

using hide glue
need gap filler
The bookshelf is glued and together but not clamped. I want to get the gap filled in the middle back slat before I clamp it. Just noticed that the wedge will be end grain and I wanted face grain. Sawed the wedge at the wrong spot. It is the middle bottom slat so it won't be that visible.

tapped it home
After this has set up I will chisel or knife or saw the excess away. Actual removal method to be determined.

checking for clearance
I looked at the squared off ends of the shelf and I'm not hating them but I'm also not asking them to dance with me. I think clipping them off at an angle, not necessarily a 45°, will tidy up the ends.

keeping an eye on my clamping pressure
The bottom slat bowed about an 1/8" in the middle but the square had contact with all 3 just about everywhere else I checked it.

edge protectors
I have found out the painful way that the weight of these bessey clamps and the serrations in the bar will leave indentations in the wood if it rests upon the edge. I don't want anything to mar the show edges of the bookshelf.

road test with my largest hardcover book
road test with an average size book.
I was hoping that the average sized book would have been behind the molding edge. It looks like if I hadn't molded the edge, it would have been.

Still haven't come with a way to attach the ends to the bases. I'll have to think of something by tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many clubs is a pro golfer allowed to carry in his bag?
answer - no more than 14 (there is no minimum)

New DVDs; carving oak boxes & hewing wooden bowls

Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 6:32pm

I just got a shipment from Warren, Maine – 2 boxes of new DVDs from Lie-Nielsen. We’ve had these in the works for a while, but better late than never. The first is Carving Oak Boxes.

This makes the 3rd oak project video; after the wainscot chest & the wainscot chair. I think this one is my favorite – it covers making 2 different boxes – one typical flat-lidded box, with wooden hinges and a till inside. The other is the slant-lidded “desk” box. This has 2 tills, a tray and 4 small drawers inside. The video also covers carving the designs on the desk box – patterns that I have done from the very beginning of my carving career, and have never put in the previous videos on carving.

Here’s the desk box –


The 2nd video is Hewing Wooden Bowls

Like spoon carving, a whole sub-culture of bowl-carving is gathering quite a bit of momentum. Who can blame them? Axes, adzes and gouges – what could be more fun? I was on a spree of hewing bowls a couple summers ago, and had done an episode of Roy Underhill’s show about this work. Then I went up to Maine to shoot this video shortly after that. Things got in the way, and my bowl-work got shelved for a while, but just lately I have started picking up my bowl-carving tools again.  I think of  this video as an introduction to this work; showing how I split, hew and plan out the shape. Then follow that work with gouges and other shaping. The whole reason I make them is to decorate them, and that is covered too.

Here’s one of the bowls:


I have some of each video for sale, price is $40 each, with $3.50 shipping in US. This page has them, with a paypal button for ordering: https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/new-dvds-carved-oak-boxes-hewing-wooden-bowls-spring-2017/

Contact me for shipping outside the US – we can figure out pricing. Peter.Follansbee@verizon.net

(I hope this works – I’m a bit clunky with the retail end of blogging. With my spoons, I usually send out an invoice – but there’s usually only a dozen of those at a time. I tried to set this up so it will take you right to payment – so I don’t have to send out invoices. If there’s a wrinkle, bear with me, and we’ll get it sorted. Fingers crossed.)

or you can order directly from Lie-Nielsen https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4243/home-education-videos

some of my older videos are available to purchase as streaming videos through Lie-Nielsen, instead of buying a physical disc. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4228/peter-follansbee

Box Made with ‘Log Cabin Dovetails’

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 12:19pm

I was hanging out at the Lost Art Press open house last weekend, and Dayton-area woodworking and tool collector Eric Brown brought down a crazy box to show Christopher Schwarz and me. It’s made with the same sort of dovetails you may have seen on the Single Brothers’ Workshop at Old Salem, or other Germanic timber structures. These dovetails, constructed solely of tails, weren’t meant for small-scale work…but there’s a […]

The post Box Made with ‘Log Cabin Dovetails’ appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Miter Jack Kits: Metal Bits Now Available

Benchcrafted - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 11:41am
UPDATE April 10 2017.
Nick at Lake Erie is taking pre-orders for another small run of wooden bits. We've got a handful of the metal bits left from the first run. You can order the metal bits from us anytime (see our store page), but to get the wooden screw and threaded nut block, you'll need to pre-order through Lake Erie. More info here.

We've sold out of the La Forge Royale Miter Jack kits, but there's a silver lining. We made a double run of the metal bits which we're offering for sale. All you'll have to make is the wooden screw, and tap the nut block. The inexpensive wood threading kits will work (if you have a lot of patience) but we like the Beall products. The 1-1/4" is the one to get. If you don't want to bother with the threading, we recommend you contact Nick at Lake Erie Toolworks, who makes the best quality wood threads in the world.

The contents of the Miter Jack Kit Metal Bits are pictured above (minus the wood screw and nut block of course.) All the metal bit are manufactured in the USA by us. You'll also get a pouch with all the various screws needed to assemble the jack.

Price: $38 plus shipping.

You can order them directly on our Store page.
Categories: Hand Tools

In the Works: ‘Honest Labour’ by Charles H. Hayward

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 11:33am


One of the great joys in creating “The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years” was reading Hayward’s “Chips from the Chisel” column in every issue during its 30-year run. The column was a remarkable insight to the way Hayward viewed the world, the craft, his house and his garden.

The column began before World War II as tinged with insecurity. During the war years, Hayward kept a stiff upper lip and encouraged woodworkers to find solace in woodworking. And after the war, Hayward’s columns dealt with a craft that was being changed by technology and the old ways were disappearing.

The group of us who worked on “The Woodworker” books selected some of these columns for the books, and those appear at the end of book four. But I didn’t want to overwhelm readers with philosophy, so we selected only a few columns for volume four.

Enter Kara Gebhart Uhl, our managing editor, who wasn’t involved with “The Woodworker” books until the end of the final two volumes. She was delighted by the “Chips from the Chisel” columns and asked if there were more she could read.

So John and I began to wonder: Could the columns be a book on their own?

Thanks to Kara we are going to find out. For the last few months, Kara has been assembling the best columns from each year, plus vintage images from the magazine. She’s also preparing a timeline of important world events for each year, which will help put the columns in perspective.

And we’re seeking the help of the Hayward family in completing a biography of Hayward, who was the most influential workshop writer of the 20th century (in my opinion).

The working title of the book is: “Honest Labour: The Craft According to Charles H. Hayward.” During the coming months, Kara will share excerpts from the book here on the blog to give you a taste of what’s to come. I think you’ll find them well-written, thoughtful and as applicable to the craft today as they were 65 years ago.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

F&C Magazine, Article on Compound Dovetails

David Barron Furniture - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 10:47am

The latest edition of F&C is out now and has my article on the making of a compound angle dovetail box. This is the most complex box in the recent run of articles and my favourite.

There are five pages of detailed explanation as well as the usual very good exploded drawings and dimensions.

There is also a good four page feature on Australian tool maker Chris Vesper, he makes some wonderful tools and you can one of his sliding bevels being used in my article.

Funny man and great woodworker Roy Underhill is in the spotlight this month. I'm really looking forward to seeing him perform again at Handworks next month.

Categories: Hand Tools

Why Chip Carving?

Highland Woodworking - Mon, 04/10/2017 - 9:16am

chip carvingChip carving has been around for hundreds of years, has been practiced by men and women of all ages and from all walks of life, and continues to grow in popularity around the world. There are a number of reasons why this is the case. Chip carving has a low startup cost, does not require any special artistic ability, can be done anywhere, and does not take a long time to learn and to achieve good results.

Getting started in chip carving does not necessitate a large investment. Many styles of carving require the need for a wide variety of assorted straight chisels, bent chisels, round nose chisels, gouges, v-tools, skews, parting tools, mallets, vises, carving benches, aprons, gloves, thumb guards, paints, and brushes. This expense can quickly add up to many thousands of dollars. Chip carving appeals to hobbyists/carvers/beginners with any size budget. Complete chip carving kits are economical and include everything needed to get started.

chip carving crossesMany people I interact with who see my chip carved items respond, “I could never do that. I’m not artistic.” The good news is that no artistic ability is needed to become a skilled chip carver. It is all about technique! While some chip carvers enjoy the design aspect of creating patterns, this is not a requirement. A lack of artistic ability is no excuse for anyone wanting to learn how to chip carve.

Chip carving is also ultra-portable! At home you can chip carve indoors, outdoors, on the porch, in the workshop, in the living room while relaxing with your family, in the family room in front of the fireplace, in the kitchen, and in your favorite chair in the den. Pack your knives and project in a bag and bring your project with you on your next camping trip, when you take a road trip, or as a nice way to spend some down time on vacation. All it takes is your set of knives, sharpening kit, and projects and you’re all set. An important reason why chip carving can be done anywhere is because it does not make a big mess. Of the various types of carving, chip carving is probably one of the cleanest because there are fewer chips created. I chip carve regularly on a chair in my family room and simply vacuum up the chips when I’m done. The clean up is quick and easy.

Another reason why chip carving is a great style of carving to learn is because it does not take a long time to learn how to produce nice carvings. Chip carving is really quite easy. If you practice good technique, use beginning patterns, and regularly practice the basic skills, good results can be obtained in a matter of months. When I teach chip carving classes, my beginning students are always impressed with the good results they are able to obtain in just their first day, often in the first hour or two! Most students will have that “Ahhh” moment when their first chip pops out. This is much different than other styles of carving that can take several years and require a natural artistic ability to attain proficiency. This is one of the advantages of chip carving that makes it appealing to so many.

Learning how to chip carve is not difficult. You will quickly find that chip carving is a very enjoyable pastime and rewarding hobby that eventually you will want to pass on to your friends and family.

Marty Leenhouts has 30 years of teaching experience and is the owner of MyChipCarving.com and EZcarving.com. His videos have 2.5+ million views and he is the author of Chip Carving Essentials: A Step-by- Step Guide to Successful Chip Carving.

The post Why Chip Carving? appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking


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