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How to Resize a Cabinet Door

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 06/12/2017 - 6:39am
Cut the door to size on the table saw

We all know the old saw about measuring twice and cutting once. I’ve even gone one better in my world: Measure three times. Nonetheless, I still occasionally find that I’ve made a door or a drawer the wrong size. (I once made an entire cabinet, complete with four drawers, that was an inch too wide for the opening where it was intended to go…oh, the pain.) Over the years, I’ve […]

The post How to Resize a Cabinet Door appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

How to Make Snap-to-line Templates

Paul Sellers - Mon, 06/12/2017 - 2:26am

I have used snap-to-line templates for my work for a number of years now and no other method of making templates comes close. They are accurate and long lasting too. We made a quick video to help you understand the techniques and I am sure you will enjoy this. Here is the video for my …

Read the full post How to Make Snap-to-line Templates on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

meet Myles......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 06/12/2017 - 1:10am
Meet Myles, my grandson who turned 6 months old today. Along with the 6 month birthday he also sprouted his first two teeth. Which explains why everything he picks up ends up in his mouth. I think Paul Sellers said he had his son Joseph using a spokeshave at age 5. That gives me 4 1/2 years to get Myles's kit assembled.

I see you
Amanda (his Mom) says that he recognizes a camera and when his picture is being taken.

this is very tasty
The toy he is trying to digest is one that belonged to his father 30 years ago. His mother saved it for just this purpose.

the tedious phase commences
I found a can of latex primer and I'll use it just because if I need to, I  can get two coats of it on today. The back of the bookcase will be visible from where my wife intends to put it so I'll be painting the back too.

I missed drilling two holes
I missed the both of them on this side. This one here and up at the opposite top corner.

the frame stock
The longer thinner piece of stock will be the base and the wider one will be cut up to make the frame. I don't like open box looking bookcases so I'll be doing some kind of edge treatment rather then leaving it square edged.

got lucky
I didn't blow out straight thru the side. That is what I usually do on at least one of these when I drill them without a stop.

it's dry
This isn't as pebbled looking now that it has dried. Judging how this coat looks I would guess I will be putting on at least 2 more. The can says to allow 24 hours or longer if there is high humidity which we have today. The temp at 1600 is 90°F and humidity is about 1000%.

second coat on
The holiday I had on this cheek is nowhere to be seen.

2nd coat definitely looks better
primer on the entire bookcase
I didn't prime the front plywood edges. Those will be covered with the frame so it isn't necessary to paint them.

making one edge flat, square and straight
I ripped out the four pieces for the front frame on the tablesaw. I repeated this dance step after each rip.

the frame (oversized)
I will cut and fit each piece individually when it's time to do that.

front ledger for the shelves
bottom side of the shelf
The top is proud of the other side. After the glue has set up on this I'll plane it flush.

final rabbet work
I whacked the rabbets out with two passes on the tablesaw. The bullnose plane was used to smooth and square up the rabbets
first one glued up and cooking away
side frame
Originally I had made this 1 9/16" wide and I knocked that back to 1 3/16". The wider width stuck out into the bookcase too far. Any book behind it would be hidden almost completely. This compromise works - it sticks out less than quarter of an inch and it is still wide enough to mold a bead on it.

looks thin
I would rather have this at 1 9/16" but I don't want to risk hiding any books behind it.

first top coat
This is going to take at least one more coat to cover. With my luck, it will take 3. The interior of the bookcase is white along with the shelves.

made a big mistake
I made the mistake of asking my wife want color she wanted the bookcase painted. I showed her these 3 cans and asked her to pick a color. Her immediate reply was "...don't I have more cans?....". Dodged it as she picked one of these without the color dab on top for the bookcase. That color is called Tsunami Sky.

second coat
There is no such thing as one coat paint coverage. It is all pure BS and unless you trowel it on a 1/4" thick, you are putting on at least two or more coats. I'm lucky here that I get to put on a primer coat and what will be 3 top coats.

flushing the front
figured my reveal just right
I had enough of the solid pine to mold this profile on the edge.

not done yet
After I molded the top edge, I put a small round over on the front bottom edge. I knocked the arris off the back bottom edge too. That way as you change shelf positions, there is nothing hard and sharp there to grab.

primer coat today, top coat tomorrow
I had to cover them
If my wife had not shown me where this bookcase was going, I wouldn't be fretting about this. I don't like the look of the plywood edges even though they are painted. I'm not sure if I can glue over paint so I'll plane the paint off first. I found some thin pine strips long enough for the sides and I had to cut two for the top and bottom.

had to cut one down
I left one wider than the rest and that one will go at the bottom. I used the slitting gauge to cut it to the same width as the others.

bottom fat one and the thin one for the top
cut and fitted
I wasn't going to do this today but Myles was napping so I couldn't make goofy faces with him so I did this. I will glue these on and put a primer coat on this tomorrow. I also filled in the nail and staple holes with joint compound.

very easy to cut and fit
Put the square on the line and score it a few times with the marking knife. Snap it off and check the fit. Done. Move on to the next one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Robert Abplanalp?
answer - the inventor of the aerosol valve in 1949

A Pair of Forest Chairs – Part Four

Pegs and 'Tails - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 9:31pm
I mixed some thin paint in a popular mid-Georgian shade of green and gave both chairs a couple of coats. Each coat of paint was rubbed back and then a brown-ish glaze was applied to the chairs to accentuate the … Continue reading
Categories: Hand Tools

Small Router Plane Build Video

Journeyman's Journal - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 6:52pm

Here is part 1 of the build. Hope you like it.

Categories: Hand Tools

3-Ply Moravian Chair-Part 4-Complete

Hillbilly Daiku - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 5:50pm

The second chair went together pretty much as the first.

The next bit of fabrication was the back panels that will eventually be upholstered.  These are simple squares of ply that will be secured with bolts and “T”-nuts.  A little shaping should make for better comfort.


With that done it was time to make a final decision as to the finish.  You know I’m an oil and wax kind of guy, but plywood needs a little something more.  I thought about some sort of paint.  Maybe a bold color to make my wacky design even more over the top?  Maybe a traditional color of milk paint?  In the end I went a somewhat conservative route and decided to dye them.

Before committing to the dye, however, I broke out the wood burner (don’t act surprised, you knew I would).  I did show great restraint and limited myself to burning the front and rear corners.  For the dye, I chose to use Transtint’s Dark Vintage Maple.  I’ve used this product before in a different color (dark walnut) on a few tables.

Transtint comes as a concentrate and needs to be mixed with a carrier.  Water or denatured alcohol are the choices and I chose to use alcohol.  The alcohol dries fast and doesn’t raise the grain, although water may offer deeper penetration.  So mix the dye per the instructions and apply.   I rag the mixture on and work as fast as I can so as not to lose the wet edge.  The open grain of the red oak and birch ply absorbed more dye than I wanted resulting in a slightly darker shade, but I can live with it.

Since the dye/alcohol mix dries quickly, I was able to follow up with a first coat of Tried & True Original just a few minutes after applying the dye.  Today I applied the second coat of Tried & True.

While waiting on the finish to do its thing, I tackled the last bit of construction.  The wedge pins that secure the backs.  These are simply dowel pins shaved to a wedge shape.  To create the dowel pins I prepared two red oak billets.  One billet would generate two pins.

The last task was to upholster the two small back panels.  I completely missed taking any photos of the upholstery operation though.  They are really simple.  One inch foam covered with sage green vinyl (the same vinyl that I used on the footstools) and stapled in place.

That is pretty much it.  A final buff with a soft cloth and the backs wedged in place.

So that concludes my crazy chair experiment and my entry in Brian’s “June Chair Build“.  This design works, but is best suited to power tools because of the use of plywood.  Shaping the outside edges of plywood with hand tools is doable (requires frequent sharpening).  Shaping the inside edges (mortises/handle) is possible, but best suited to the use of an electric router.  One note about the stretchers.  Structurally they are not required, although they do add quite a bit of strength.  The legs and their tenons are more than strong enough on their own.  I simply prefer the visual of having the stretchers.

All in all I think I accomplished my original goal.  A simple chair that required no special tools or steam bending.  A chair that could be built from readily available materials.  Maybe even a chair that took an age-old construction method and updated it to a modern aesthetic.  The degree of my success is in the eye of the beholder and will most likely run the gamut of the scale.

Part 3 Greg Merritt

Categories: Hand Tools

It’s Not What the Boy Does to the Wood…

Paul Sellers - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 1:46pm

…but What the Wood Does to the Boy! On Saturday morning Hannah completed another box. I thought it was perfect. She didn’t. Not until it was done that is. Then she liked what she’d done. What makes the box as near perfect as possible in my consideration of the whole in not so much the …

Read the full post It’s Not What the Boy Does to the Wood… on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Hotel Spoon Carving

The Literary Workshop Blog - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 11:18am

I travel for work once or twice a year.  This summer it’s a week-long stay in a hotel, and I have evenings pretty much to myself.  In such situations, I never want to be without my spoon carving tools and a few blocks of wood.  Here’s my work-station:

Hotel Spoon Carving 2017

The tools fit into a small bag.  I bring along a couple sloyd knives, a couple other knives, a hook knife, a spokeshave, and card scrapers, along with an Arkansas stone and a strop.  I also bring an old bed sheet to spread on the floor to catch shavings.  It catches most of them.  At the end of the night, I roll up the sheet and either take it outside and shake it (I find an area covered with wood mulch), or I carefully put them into the room’s trash can.

Here are a few I’ve made recently:

Hotel Spoon Carving 2017

Hotel Spoon Carving 2017

I’m using mostly black walnut, which carves pretty easily even when dry.  The lighter wood is the walnut sapwood, which actually is a little tougher than the heartwood.  Softer hardwoods like poplar also carve pretty well while dry.  I do prep my blanks beforehand, cutting them to length and shaping one face with the drawknife or hatchet.  Everything else is knife work.

At some hotels, I’ve been able to carve outside on the deck.  I try to select an out-of-the way place, but people sometimes stop to watch anyway.  If they do, I often have a pleasant conversation about woodwork or handicrafts.  If they don’t, I get spoons made.

Either way, it sure beats watching TV all evening.

Tagged: hotel, hotel room, sloyd, sloyd knife, spoon making, spoons, travel, wood spoon, wooden spoon, wooden spoons

‘Arrowhead Joint’ Box

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 6:26am
arrowhead joint

Eric Brown, a Dayton-area tool collector and woodworker, has been conducting further investigating and experimentation into curious corner joinery (read his “log cabin dovetail” piece by clicking on the link). Yesterday, he stopped by while I was minding the Lost Art Press shop to show me his latest: what he’s calling the “Arrowhead Joint.” The procedure is similar to the log cabin tails linked above, but he added a new angle – 45° to be exact. […]

The post ‘Arrowhead Joint’ Box appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Matter of Proportion

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 5:00am

“Boy using right angle square in woodworking shop at the homestead school. Dailey, W.V.” Dec. 1941. Photo by: Arthur Rothstein. Photo courtesy of: Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, FSA/OWI Collection, LC-USF34- 024421-D.

“A craftsman may have an excellent knowledge of the standard measurements for all ordinary articles of furniture and yet fail to produce beauty in his work because of the lack of that artistic perception which we call a sense of proportion.”

— “A Matter of Proportion,” Charles Hayward, Good Woodworking magazine, 1937

Filed under: Honest Labour, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

bookcase carcass........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 06/11/2017 - 2:47am
My wife thinks that I have no patience for anything but she is wrong. For some things I have none but others I have more than a saint. It's a tough call if I'll have the patience to wait until Miles gets old enough to go in the shop or if I'll explode first. I've already had a suggestion to build him a workbench which will be very hard to resist doing. It's a good thing I don't have any stock to make him one (I checked) because not much else would get done.

it worked
I scraped the primer off the frog seats with a chisel (a dull one). They look to me just like they did before I sprayed primer on them. I will do this dance step when I paint the black enamel on. I won't worry so much about getting paint on the places it shouldn't be.

looks awful and good at the same time
I don't think the shine is that bad but I'll wait until I got the final coat on. This first coat doesn't look smooth but maybe it'll settle down as it dries. Here it looks like I painted over a lot of pebbles but that could be the rough texture of the iron. Either way this goes, it will need a second coat regardless.

first of many dry fit ups
The carcass is square with the diagonals reading 57 5/16 both ways. I am doing this first dry fit to mark the sides and how much I'll have to trim off the sides.

I am going to need two thinking caps here
The first mark closest to the back of the rabbet is where the plywood back ended. The second mark is where the bottom is. If I have thought this through correctly, I have to trim off the distance between the two lines minus the space between the first line and the rabbet. If I'm wrong, I'll try again and I'll just lose a fraction of an inch in the height if I am.

marked and ready to chop
At first I tried to find some way to cut this on the tablesaw but I shitcanned that idea. I am removing 3/16" which is basically nothing and it will be relatively quick and easy to do with hand tools. I knifed the line on both sides and chopped it out next.

my grungy looking 073
After I chopped the waste away I planed to the knife lines and squared the rabbet up again.

1/2 of the waste is gone
I put the chisel in the knife line at at an angle towards the end and gave it a whack. I than planed the remaining waste square and to the knife line with the shoulder plane.

still have a gap
I erred on the side of caution when I made the first trimming and it looks like I need to do it again. I have about a 1/16th more to trim off the sides.

the top is fitting good

sides are tight fitting too
Once I get the bottom fitting as good as the other sides, I will have a solid bookcase that shouldn't rack at all. If I made this any bookcase any taller I would have put a fixed shelf in the middle area.

second round of trimming done
When I did this round I clamped the two sides together and did all the chiseling and planing like it was one board. I should have done it this way for round one too.

bottom fitting now as good as the other sides

one last trimming to do
I trimmed the overhang on sides last. I wasn't going to do it now but it proved to be a PITA trying to work around it on the last dry fit. I marked them then sawed and planed them to the line.

last dry fir
Both of them measure 57 1/8 now and important thing is that they are equal. Now the clamps on the long sides are applying pressure on the top and bottom equally. Gluing the carcass together is in the on deck circle.

glue and nailing the sides together with 2" finish nails
staples for the plywood back
I am not a fan of staples. They are can be incredibly frustrating to remove which is the biggest thorn in the side I have with them. However, comma, back slash, double ditto marks, they are a good choice for plywood backs. They pull the back down tight and the U shape of the staple makes a stronger grip on the plywood then nails do.

cooking away until tomorrow
The nails in the sides were just to hold the carcass in place while I got the clamps on. I got the plywood back on and checked the square one last time and stapled it off. The plywood back will keep it square and I am hoping I don't go off into La-La land with the clamping pressure.

1/2 way through it
I had seen that the Lost Art Press was selling this but I shied away from it. I wasn't interested in reading about what a cabinetmaker does while waiting for commissions to come her way. I got it after I read Nick Offerman's blurb on it to use Nancy's words. Because of Nick's write up I bought the book and put the other 3 books aside I'm reading so I can finish this one. I got half way through it last night and I should have it read cover to cover by sunday night. I'll give my keyboard diarrhea of my thoughts on it then.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a doodlebug?
answer - the larva of the ant lion

The Golden Age of French Furniture in the Eighteenth Century

Journeyman's Journal - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 6:29pm
By Daniëlle O. Kisluk-Grosheide Department of European Sculpture and Decorative Arts, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Some of the most beautiful and refined furniture ever made, displaying the highest level of artistic and technical ability, was created in Paris during the eighteenth century. Much admired by an international clientele, it was used to furnish residences all over Europe and also influenced fashions of cabinetmaking outside France.

Furniture-Making Guild (Corporation des Menuisiers)

French furniture of this period was the collaborative effort of various artists and craftsmen who worked according to strictly enforced guild regulations. Established during the Middle Ages, the guild system continued with little change until being dissolved in 1791 during the French Revolution. The Parisian guild to which the furniture makers belonged was called the Corporation des Menuisiers. It had great influence on the education of furniture makers by requiring at least six years of training that led to a high degree of technical specialization and ensured a high standard of work. First an apprentice spent three years or more in the workshop of a master furniture maker, followed by at least as many years as a journeyman. In order to become a master, a journeyman had to prove his competence by making a chef-d’oeuvre, or masterpiece. Once that was successfully completed, he could open his own workshop only if a vacancy existed (the number of masters allowed to practice at one time was strictly controlled by the guild, as was the size of their workshops) and he had paid the necessary fees. The dues were lower for the sons of master cabinetmakers than for people from outside Paris who had no relatives in the guild. From 1743 onward, it became the rule to stamp every piece of furniture that was offered for sale with the maker’s name. An additional stamp, JME (for jurande des menuisiers-ébénistes), would be added once a committee, made up of elected guild members who inspected the workshops four times a year, had approved the quality. Any furniture that failed to meet the required standards of craftsmanship was confiscated.

Menuisiers and ébénistes

The Corporation des Menuisiers was divided into two distinct trades, that of the woodworkers who made paneling (boiserie) for buildings and coaches, and that of the actual furniture makers. The latter can be subdivided into menuisiers (joiners), responsible for the making of solid wood furniture such as console tables, beds, and chairs, and the ébénistes, from the word ébéne (ebony), makers of veneered case pieces. Most of the menuisiers were French born, often members of well-known dynasties of chairmakers, and were located in or near the rue de Cléry in Paris. By contrast, a large number of Parisian ébénistes were foreign born, many of whom worked in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine. Although not forbidden, it was rare to combine the professions of a menuisier and an ébéniste.

In addition, there were two other groups of furniture makers active in Paris, working outside the framework of the guild. The so-called royal cabinetmakers, who were given special privileges and workshops either at the Louvre palace, at the Manufacture Royale des Meubles de la Couronne at the Gobelins, or in other buildings owned by the crown. Royal cabinetmakers were free from guild regulations. The second group consisted of the so-called artisans libres, or independent craftsmen, many of them foreigners who sought refuge in certain “free” districts of Paris outside the guild’s jurisdiction.

Boy would I love to confiscate many furniture made today.

Categories: Hand Tools

The reluctant blogger

Mulesaw - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 6:22pm
As some of you might have noticed, while I am at home I rarely blog. That doesn't mean that I don't work wood. But for some reason I find it incredibly hard to find the energy to sit down and turn on the computer and write a blog entry.
I have sort of reached a conclusion as to why it is so, there are a couple of reasons and why they might not make sense to all, they are nonetheless the fact in my case:

-I prefer building to blogging.
This could be true to a lot of woodworkers. If blogging was the goal itself, then it is unlikely that woodworking would be the theme of a blog.

-I find it exhausting to take a picture of my current project and have it uploaded to the computer.
This is technically ridiculous, since taking a picture isn't hard. All I have to do is to find the camera (most likely it will be in Gustavs room), take a picture, plug in a cable and get it onto the blog. But for some in explainable reason I see this as a major obstacle. I procrastinate if I have to find the camera and often I end up completing a project without taking any pictures, and then it is sort of too late (in my mind).

-I don't like to spend time behind the computer screen while at home.
I feel like I am at work if I have to turn on the computer, so even checking my email account is likely only done every 10 days or so.
This is also the reason why I very seldom comment on anything during my home periods.

-Some of the stuff I do at home is not really interesting blogging material for this blog.
While I do try to spend a great deal of time in my shop while at home, there are also loads of regular tasks that simply aren't interesting to blog about. Stuff like changing the injection pump on our car, changing 37 individual pieces of thermo glass in various windows, mowing the lawn, fixing the lawn mower, re establish the correct air cushion in the hydrophore tank, fixing the horse trailer, treating the porch with a protective varnish, walking the dog etc.

The funny thing is that if I manage to pull myself together and do blog while I am at home, I really enjoy it. The problem is that I am really good at procrastinate when it is "required" and the blog is what suffers from it.

Whenever I get back to sea I suddenly find that I should have blogged about this and that etc. But it is too late at that time, especially since I haven't got any pictures of the projects.

Categories: Hand Tools

Why I married my sister

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 11:12am

In honor of Chris’s sojourn in the land of beer and sausages, as Derek Jones recently called it, here’s a post on sausage making.

Making Things Work

I published my latest book in March. Publishing it myself was the last thing I originally had in mind. I’m well aware of the stigma attached to self-publishing. Chris Schwarz puts it as starkly as anyone ever has: “In the media world, publishing your own book is akin to marrying your sister. Most self-published books are about encounters with aliens that involve wax paper and Wesson oil, or Klingon wildlife poetry, or recipes for curing cancer with celery salt.”

With Maggie 1963 She’s the one without the fake smile.

The book was a longstanding thorn in my side, albeit a thorn of my own placing. I started working on it a dozen years ago, fitting the writing in around the edges of my daily work. The book would respond to two of my professional peeves: (1) the widespread public ignorance of what it costs to make things when you’re doing so for…

View original post 1,191 more words

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Customer Project

David Barron Furniture - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 9:27am

Joe sent me these pictures of his latest project, a very lovely, delicate walnut console table.

The plugs were shaped by hand on an inverted jointer held in the vice.

Carefully trimming the plugs.

I really like the tapered legs, it looks very light on its feet.

Hand cut dovetails for the drawers.

Shown with a matching pair of bedside tables made earlier.

Categories: Hand Tools

How to Keep Kids From Wasting Sandpaper – Part 1

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 3:40am

It seems that no other shop resource is treated with such obliviousness as sandpaper. Although sandpaper is responsible for the last steps of shaping much of our work, it doesn’t receive the same heed as hand tools, or even portable tools. And, for obvious reasons, it doesn’t have the same sex-appeal as a hand tool. It is also disposable and cheap. Still, I tell my students: although it may seem […]

The post How to Keep Kids From Wasting Sandpaper – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

2 Roman Workbenches at Saalburg Museum

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 1:12am


While I’ve known about the surviving Roman workbenches at Saalburg Museum since reading W.L. Goodman’s classic “The History of Woodworking Tools” (1964) many years ago, I never thought I’d get to examine the benches in detail.

On Thursday, archaeologist Rüdiger Schwarz unlocked the warren of climate-controlled chambers under one of the buildings of the reconstructed Roman fort and led me, Görge Jonuschat and Bengt Nilsson past thousands of Roman artifacts organized on shelves, in drawers and in boxes.


And then there they were. Black from their time buried in well No. 49 outside the walls of the fort. Distorted from their return to the atmosphere after they were excavated in 1901. But solid oak workbenches, nonetheless. (We should all look so good after 1,839 years, give or take.)


Rüdiger, a trained furniture maker, graciously allowed us as much time as we needed to examine the benches, take photographs and write down measurements. For me, what was most shocking is how completely familiar the low benches seemed, especially now that I have a low bench in my shop. The legs were exactly where I would put them. The mortise for the planing stop – ditto. And the width (varying from 11” to 12”) was just right for me to straddle.

Both of the benches had split across the middle of their lengths – perhaps from their time in the well or when they were put down the well. One bench has been repaired since recovery; the other left as-is. The legs on both of the benches were added sometime after they were recovered from the well.

There is a lot that we don’t know about the benches. Why were they put in the well in the first place? There are a few theories – perhaps to protect them during an attack. Perhaps to hide them so they were not cut up and used to build defenses during the decline and eventual abandonment of the fort about 260.


Looking for tool marks on the surface of the bench.

What were the odd notches on one edge of one of the benches used for – if anything? What did the planing stop look like? Exactly how long were the legs?

These questions (and more) are going to be addressed in detail in my forthcoming book on Roman workbenches. I took enough measurements that I’ll be able to build a fairly close reproduction – copying the leg placement, plus the overall size and shape of the top.

I doubt that a reproduction will give us a lot of definite answers. But it should confirm again that this style of bench is part of a long and still-living woodworking tradition.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Roman Workbenches, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

much joy in Mudville........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 06/10/2017 - 1:11am
The house is full of people again. My grandson, the son-in-law, and the two girls are all here for the first time in very long time. There is nothing in this world that will make me blather like an idiot other than my 6 month old grandson. What a treat to finally see him and get to hold him. A wee bit of trepidation there as it has been a bazillion years since I've held a baby.

Needless to say, I didn't get much shop time. I had to decompress a little and then I shut the lights out to go watch him.

I had checked on the camera status again at lunchtime and Amazon had 7 Red TG-5s for sale. I think it's going to be a wait and see for me.  Amazon hasn't taken the money for the camera yet so I'll be checking my bank as my indication the camera is on it's way to me.

frog is done
It was hard to capture a shot of the frog in reflection. The bottom of the frog has just been sanded and the area above the round cutouts got the filing action. Most of the filing action was between the arches and the bottom disc of the lateral adjust.

port side view
This is a moot point as the iron/chipbreaker/lever cap will hide 100% of this. To that end I am leaving the frog as it is here.

diagonals match
I still have lows above the arches but solid contact across the whole bottom of the frog and the top. There is no light to be seen under the ruler at those points.

too small or too big
The slot is too big (wide) and the frog is too small (width too) for this jig. If I put one wing on one side the opposite wing on the frog is barely on the other side of the jig. This drove a lot of leaving the frog as is. I don't want to make another one of these jigs just for this plane as I don't anticipate doing a rehab of another #2.

I had to make a pit stop at Wally World to get a 9V battery for the smoke detector. While I was there I picked up a few other things but I forgot to get regular Coke for the son-in-law. I picked up some paint and artist brushes though.

no semi-gloss
If I think this is too shiny I will buy the quart can of semi-gloss. The choices were this and flat black in this size can.

cheap bag artist brushes
These are for oil or water colors. I got them because they are cheap and small. If I forget to clean them I'm out only a handful of pennies. This bag was less then $5.

just noticed this holiday
I don't think that I missed this but it sticks out like shiny red sore thumb. I hit it again with primer and if that doesn't work I will have to investigate this further. I may have to sand this spot back to bare metal and start over.

this is next
This will get stripped and painted just like the #2. I haven't come across another one of these in my web searches but there are a lot of Preston spokeshaves out there. I have been looking at them to determine what parts are painted and which are left shiny and bare. I need to get a better idea on this subject.

my current iron
I haven't had any luck with finding a replacement for this. Ray Iles has a site called Old Tools and he sells two replacement Preston spokeshave irons. One is for a lateral adjust and the other for a non lateral adjust. The cutouts look the same as my iron but the tapers on the sides are much steeper and larger. I never got a reply from them on whether or not the non lateral adjust iron would fit my Preston but I ordered one anyways. It if fits and it works I'm golden. If not I'll have to buy a Preston spokeshave to fit it.

5 1/2 takes a 2 1/4" wide iron
I bought a spare iron for the 5 1/2 from Old Tools along with the spokeshave iron. With S/H it came to less than $50 but I don't know what the international currency exchange fee is. Old Tools has replacement Stanley irons for the #3 plane up to the #8 along with block plane irons, plus lots of others too. I couldn't find a thickness listed for this iron so I'll have to wait and be surprised when I get it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
US regulations state what percentage of peanuts must be in peanut butter?
answer - 90%

Nonreligious Variations of Sidelocks.

The Furniture Record - Fri, 06/09/2017 - 10:49pm

In a recent blog, we discussed chests that had in common a vertical hinged panel that, when locked, prevented access to the drawers and/or doors. This posting is about chests with the same basic notion only smaller.

First up is this desk:


The center writing section was out being repaired or reproduced, depending.

Looking at one of the drawer towers, you see this:


A mini tower of three drawers with a gallery atop.

Low and behold, it is also sidelocked:


Not really a surprise since it is the reason for this blog.

The tower drawers are dovetailed:


I thought you would want to know.

Another smaller sidelock example is this antique silver chest:


Quite a handsome example.


Open it looks a lot like this.


If it had silver in it, it would look like this.


By Gladwin Ltd. of Sheffield, UK.


Closed, the hinged columns keeps the drawers from opening.


Opening the column allows access to the drawers.

The columns are held in place by brass plates on top of the columns:


The holes in the brass plates aligns with tapered pins in the lid, Note the screws are clocked.

The chest has a unique hinge:


There is one quite similar across the lid.

There is a lock as well:


It’s British, don’t you know

I will continue to look for more examples and bring them to you as I find them.

It’s what I do.

New Way to Grab SketchUp Wood Textures

Bob Lang's ReadWatchDo - Fri, 06/09/2017 - 5:03pm
The good folks at SketchUp recently tweaked the features of the 3D Warehouse and it is now possible to “borrow” materials or components from a warehouse model without downloading the entire model. In this example I have a model of a … Continue reading
Categories: General Woodworking


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