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Saw Filing Templates

Something I am always asked for are the saw filing templates in PDF form that I made for my backsaw project.  They're the ones that are just lines on a page showing an angle to file a saw at or lines showing ppi to aid in cutting new teeth, like in this shot:

There were a few sizes missing - I made some additional templates to cover more sizes and angles, hopefully these will help you out.

I've compiled them all into one document and put them here:

Saw filing templates

They are all in PDF format - if you plot them without scaling them to fit the page (no scaling, in other words), they should print to scale properly.

EDIT:  For those daring types, here's a pair of progressive pitch templates, one for 6 ppi - 9 ppi Toe to Heel on a 9" (22.86cm) blade similar to Lie-Nielsen and another that is 7 – 13 PPI over 14” similar to their progressive-pitch filed tenon saw...

Progressive Saw Filing Templates

Have fun filing!

Leif

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Make Your Own Totes? An Interesting New Veritas Router Bit

 

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The Veritas Variable Round-over Bit
 

Do you make your own totes or tool handles?  It is one of the most time and labor intensive parts of toolmaking.  I find when making a saw, it probably took as much time to form the handle as it did to make the entire rest of the saw.

Today I see that Veritas, the manufacturing arm of Lee Valley, has come out with a new router bit the likes I haven't encountered before - a variable width round-over router bit.  Made specifically for handles, it promises to speed the process greatly...

Lee Valley has also come out with several templates of theirs and classic Stanley plane totes, free for download.

The instructions for the router bit are available here.

Kudos to Veritas.  This is the kind of forward thinking and customer oriented design we've come to expect from Lee Valley and Veritas.  They are constantly innovating and coming out with tools and products geared towards the hand tool user - and though this technically doesn't count as a hand tool itself, I think I can let that slide by this time.

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Marking and Cutting Gauges

 

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Figure 1. A freshly made set of marking and cutting gauges, ready for use.
 

 Have you ever had a favorite old tool that you have used absolutely forever, and weren't willing to give it up even though it's worn far past the point of usefulness?  I have two such tools - both, unfortunately, happen to be marking gauges.  One is an old Stanley #97 wheel marking gauge, the other a Stanley #77 mortise gauge.

This errant devotion to these old tools finally led to frustration when I realized that on the #77, the pins had worn down to the point that there wasn't enough pin left to mark anything with.  Over the years I had filed them down to tiny little nubs - there simply wasn't enough of them left to do the job anymore.

Something else - I didn't have a decent cutting gauge, something that I am going to need for my radio cabinet project.  Very similar to a marking gauge in construction, they use a knife blade rather than a pin to cut rather than mark the surface, and are often used when cutting veneer parallel to an edge when installing inlay.

I could buy all the gauges I wanted, but getting all I wanted would cost a bit of cash, and the way things are I figured it might be cheaper (and funner!) to make them myself.  Besides, I had all this brass stock laying around and also had this one, perfectly quartersawn piece of coco-bolo I have been hording since I found it years ago that was just begging to be used for some small tools just like these.

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Average: 4.7 (3 votes)

Recommendations on Sawmakers, Restorers, and Sharpeners

Every once in a while I'm asked if I could restore or make a saw for a fellow woodworker. Unfortunately, my current employment situation allows me little time for personal endeavors (like finishing my shop!), much less that for others - so I've had to severely cut back work I do for others.

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Average: 5 (3 votes)

Making an Awl and a Marking Knife

Two of the most basic tools in a joiner’s toolbox are the lowly awl and marking knife - yet they are often two of the poorest tools, too. I know - I've been suffering with a pair of cheap hardware store awls for years - they are truly useless for marking, though. Thick and heavy, and don't hold a point worth squat. My main marking knife has been a utility knife, too - a poor substitute. Yet these are some of the most important tools to have for fine joinery. I decided it was time for an upgrade...

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Experimenting with Etching Artwork onto Steel

One of the marks of a quality saw, at least back in the day, was the presence of an etched logo on the blade.  These etches were more than the laser-printed logos of today that practically wipe off the first time you use the saw - the etch was an acid process that actually ate into the metal, leaving the logo behind, etched right into the metal.

I have long searched for a economical way to etch a logo into the sides of my saw blades, and here's what I've found - here's my take on one of those logos: 

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Average: 5 (3 votes)

Poor Boy Split Nuts

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The screws and nuts that hold a saw handle onto its blade are getting to be either hard to find, or are exceedingly expensive.  The standard issue nuts from the hardware store are simple plated steel, and are not consistent in length in my experience.  The brass split nuts are available, but are limited in supply and quite expensive at about $5 each plus shipping at the time of this writing.  I  thought to myself that I could make them almost as well using a few simple tools found in most woodworking shops - and then I would be able to claim that the saws I make are made en

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Adding Teeth

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Something that I've never found much information on is cutting new teeth on saws.  Most will tell you that you either need a machine, or to take it to someone who has a machine to cut new teeth - I'm here to tell you it ain't so.  I've made teeth - from scratch - on dozens of saws without the use of an expensive machine...  and it's not that hard to do.
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Jonathan's "Saw Chops"

The following dialogue is taken from portions of  email conversations I had with fellow woodworker Jonathan Skipsey, whom I've corresponded with regularly for quite a while now.  These particular quotes are in relation to a discussion we carried on concerning saw vises - Jonathan had seen field built vises and was considering making one for himself.  I thought it might be of help to others, so asked if I could add it here.
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Tanged Chisel Handles

Depending on what stock I have on hand, I sometimes turn 2 handles at once.  This can be more difficult to do - the long stock can tend to vibrate more in the lathe, making it more difficult to get it smooth, at least in my experience.  But the benefit is in increased output - and I had a piece of 15" long ash that was dying to be made into handles, so...

 

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by Dr. Radut.