Accidental Woodworker

hmm.......

The bottom one is what the dowel jig did first and what two holes look like. I wasn't happy with the empty space so I drilled two holes and shifted the jig to the left and drilled one more hole. I liked that but it won't work when I drill the corresponding holes in the legs. I can't reference the third hole I drilled.

drilled three

The last hole on the left doesn't have a lot of meat on the outside. I think I'll be ok with it because I will place this so this hole is on the bottom.

it wasn't easy

The jig isn't centered on either the rail or the legs. Positioning the jig needs to be set correctly so the rails and legs align -  side to side & top/bottom. The leg/rail sample was a life saving but it was still easy for me to get confused. I confirmed the placement of the jig a bazillion times before I drilled and I still had calm the heebie jeebies afterward.

first two

Got the top side rails done. The inside face is flush with the legs with the offset on the outside.

oops

I might need a change of plans. The dowels for the next set of rails line up with the first rail dowels. I hadn't thought that far ahead. Decided to move the back rail to the opposite side and that opened up some room. One set will still hit the other but with enough meat for the glue to work on both.

While I was typing this I saw another way to deal with this. I could have offset the 2nd set of dowels by placing them in between the first ones. The 5 inch rails had 4 dowels and the offset ones would have had 4 too. On the next one I'll try doing it that way.

hmm.......

This is the top back rail. I will also do this same layout for the bottom back rail. Not ideal but I think it will be adequate for this application.

first bottom rail

Got the bottom rail on the bottom and the bottom front rail I'm on the fence about. I'm leaning towards positioning the outside face flush. The bottom shelf will overhang on the front edge so any offset there won't be seen.

sides done

The first bottom rail is short - I used it just to check I drilled the holes correctly.

came today

I had ordered these yesterday but I hadn't checked for a delivery date. I don't need the 2" ones but I did need the 1 1/2" ones.

last two rails

These are the top and bottom drawer rails. The top one will be dovetailed into the top of the legs and the bottom one is up in the air. Doweled, tenoned, or set in a notch? 

I quit for the day here. I was dead, bone tired and I was struggling trying to not nod out. The oncology nurse had told this might happen and just go with the flow. So that is what I did for the PM session.

accidental woodworker 

almost done

There were two white holidays on the inside I painted and two dings showing some primer on the outside. It will be a while before I can move this into the boneyard. I haven't gotten around to arranging it.

leg stock

Made a me-steak with the 6/4 leg stock. I thought this was long enough to get 8 legs out of it. I also thought that I had bought another 6/4 board but that ain't so boys and girls.

a wee bit of twist

The board wasn't rocking on the tablesaw and the eyeball didn't see any twist. I took a couple of the shavings off the high ends and called it done.

hmm......

I got 5 legs out of the 6/4 board. The two outside ones will be the front legs. The two back legs have straight vertical grain on two faces and two faces with cathedral grain. Not that pronounced and they will be the back legs.

cleaning up

The tablesaw didn't like ripping this poplar. It stalled and grabbed a couple times when I ripped out each leg. I cleaned up those faces and then did a skim cut on the tablesaw getting all four legs to the same dimension.

close

My Olsen miter gauge wouldn't extend the 45" I needed for the legs. I knifed each leg at 45 and cut them on the tablesaw. I will reference everything off of the top of the legs. After it is together I'll even up the legs at the bottom.

rails

Got all the rails saw to length and width. I still need one more rail - the top drawer rail. Holding off on that for now. I still need 3 shelves, slats, and a top. When I do them I'll get the drawer rail from those scraps.

Miller Dowel jig

the final look

In the end after playing with it for a while adding and removing shims, I finally got it. The back is within a frog hair of being flush with the inside of the leg and the opposite face is inset about 3/16".

hmm......

This jig is for setting the depth of the drill bit and I think I finally figured it out. I thought the measurements on the jig were for the dowel length. It ain't so, it is for the drill depth on one side of the dowel joint. It is very easy to confuse me and I could have avoided it if I had read the instructions. Now that I sorted that out I'm trying to decide whether to use 1 1/2" or 2" dowels. 

ready for drilling

I was going to drill the holes but nixed it. I wasn't feeling 100% so I'll come back to this in the AM. 

Day three from my 2nd chemo cocktail and I felt like total crap this morning. I slept throughout the night. I had hit the rack at 2100 and I got up 4 times for the toilet trot races but I was able to fell back asleep right away. It doesn't look like this round of chemo is going to be as nice as round one. 

Feeling nauseous sucks pond scum so I finally broke down and took a pill for it. I felt better about an hour later with the nauseous feeling knocked back 98%. I had my friday fish 'n chips and so far I've kept it down without the urge to make an offering to the white porcelain throne. Blah feeling slowly dissipated over the day and by the time I killed the lights I was feeling a wee bit better. Fingers crossed tomorrow will be better.

accidental woodworker

 I got on the road a little after 0600, heading north to Highland Hardwoods in New Hampshire. It was a nightmare driving up there. 95 and 495 had several log jams I had to deal with and I don't do good in traffic. Especially so when nothing is moving. The closer I got to New Hampshire it started to thin out but a surprise was waiting for me in NH. They were doing massive construction for several miles on the road to Highland Hardwood. Coming home was much better - no log jams and I sailed through the bazillion mile long construction zone.

$262 worth of poplar

I know I have enough for one and I'm going to try and squeeze out two if I can.

the honey do project

This is what my wife asked me to make for her. Surprised me to no end that she liked this style. It is definitely something that I like and I like a lot. 

painting done

On the front no holidays but there are a few spots to do on the back. The front looks good after two coats. It is smooth to the look and touch with no brush marks.

flipped it

Back went on next. I screwed it into the backs of shelves and nailed it off around the perimeter. No glue because of the paint.

last screw

The back wasn't glued and nailed/screwed. The screws (#6x1") stiffened the bookcase much more than I thought they would. The edges and the top and bottom on the back needed a top coat. I am only putting on one to cover the white primer.

done

I have a couple of spots to touch up. Wrestling it off the workbench and getting it upright didn't go smoothly. One down and one more to go. This one is for Leo I think based on the color of the paint. Both of the grandsons have gray dressers but different colors.

15"

I got 3 boards this wide and one 16" wide. All four of them are 5 feet long.

I'll get started on this in the AM. I made some doodles on paper that will guide me. I'll settle on the height, depth, and width as I start cutting the stock to rough dimensions.

Day two from my 2nd chemo cocktail and no side effects so far. I didn't sleep well last night, I had woke up at 0215 and couldn't fall back asleep. I finally nodded out sometime after 0430 and woke up again at 0515. I hope that I sleep like the dead tonight.

Had trouble getting the wood into the truck at Highland Hardwoods. I had to go old man slow because if I tried going at my normal balls to wall speed I got winded. Getting the lumber out of the truck at home and into the cellar took a long time. I get winded and short of breath now more and more when I exert myself even slightly. I had to rest and catch my breath several times. I don't know if that is due to the lung cancer or the ILD. From what I read about ILD that is most likely the culprit.

accidental woodworker 

ready

I eyeballed the bookcase checking for any holidays and found none. Last night after dinner I had put primer on the molding. This AM I sanded it down with 320 grit, wiped down it down and rolled on the first top coat.

nope

Used a roller to apply the top coat and I like the look. No brush marks and the coverage looks smooth. I had to brush some parts - corners and the molded edges of the shelves.

the left one

Both frames have the same molded outside edge. The left one I got today and it is just a wee bit larger then the right one. That is the one I made first and ran a bead on the inside of edge. I still don't remember how I made that frame. Pretty sure that I ran the bead before sawing the miters but it is still fuzzy.

fuzzy looking but done

Finally got all the of the black scraped off. There are a few scattered spots of black in dings that I can't get out. 

ready for paint

I got all the screws and loose parts wire brushed. The frame came out better then I thought it would - cast iron doesn't shine up as nicely as brass does. I'll wipe everything down with acetone before I paint it.

hmm.......

The plan as of now is to roll on the 2nd coat after dinner. That will have given the bookcase over 8 hours to dry after the first coat.

I got a 'honey can you......' project. I'm going to Highlands Hardwoods in New Hampshire in the AM. I called Koszela lumber and they didn't have all the sizes I needed. My wife likes bland looking wood so I'm making it out of poplar. I need 3/4, 5/4, and 6/4 and only Highland has all three in stock. 

accidental woodworker

it fits

I had my 2nd chemo cocktail this AM but before I left I checked the base and how/if the molding fitted. The base fits well along the front gap free not that it matters much.

left side

This gap is tapered going wide at the front to almost nothing at the back. The gap is because of me planing the tails/pins flush. I didn't check or pay any attention to keeping the corner square.

right side is a little better

hmm......

Got lucky and planing the top of the base was correct. There is a strong 16th between the top of the molding and the top of the bottom shelf. I would have liked it to have been an 1/8" but this is acceptable.

I like it

This is the look of the miter off the saw. I am going with this because it is a paint grade miter and it will look tight and gap free when the paint is on it.

It was 1334 before I made it back to the shop today. The chemo infusion took forever. I got there at 0815 for blood work. I got my premed infusion at 0930 and I left finally at 1220. After filling the pie hole I ambled down to the shop.

sanded

I am gluing the molding to the base only. I will nail (pin nails) it to the base and the bottom shelf. That should be more than adequate for securing the molding. Sanded the primer off with 80 grit.

securing the base

I went back and forth with putting the base on now or waiting until I painted the bookcase and base separately. Nixed that because I have to apply primer to molding after it is secured. Two of the screws poked through and said hello. Replaced those two with 1 1/4" long ones and filled the errant holes with putty.

sigh

I checked the molding dry and it look good to go. I glued and nailed off the front and left side moldings and got a surprise when it came time to do the right one. The front molding ran long about an 1/8". I used a chisel to trim it so the heel was on the outside edge of the side. I didn't chisel it at 45 though. I eyeballed the short leg and checked it - it was way off. I tried several times to adjust the angle by sawing and that wasn't working.

I used a 100 grit sanding stick to getting the mating miter to match. It was easier going then I thought it would be. I eventually got the miter 99% gap free with a minor space at the toe. I filled that in with wood putty. The paint will hide that sin. 

I set all the pin nails and filled them in with putty. After dinner I'll go back to the shop and sand them smooth and apply the primer to the molding.

fixed

Initially I thought having a gap here at the back wasn't a big deal. But I didn't think the gap would be as big as it is. After seeing it I decided to put a shim in around the middle. The shim is about 9-10" long and roughly centered on the back rail. 

done - ish

There are few stubborn spots on the interior that are resisting my charms trying to scrape. Overall I'm satisfied with the removal which now showcases a bazillion dings and casting imperfections. No rush on this and I'll get the last of the recalcitrant paint removed.

hmm......

I found another can of red paint and two cans of black. The red had a skim coat that I removed and it looks viable. The red sample I did yesterday is toast - it was still tacky and more so than it should have been given the warm temps and the 24hrs. Can states dry to the touch in 4-6 hours. Tossed it into the shitcan without getting a pic of.

went 1 for two

The first can of black had thick skim coat with a small puddle of black paint. Tossed that without giving it a second thought. This can was perfect - no skim coat and the paint looked and felt good when I stirred it. I will try it out painting the tenon maker once all the old paint is history.

accidental woodworker 

prepped

Got the base sanded (120 grit) and it is was ready for paint. The tear out I filled with putty felt smooth and flush when I checked it with my finger tips. The bearers/cleats are just screwed on and I will screw up through them to secure the bookcase - no glue there neither.

hmm.......

I would have bet a lung that this was flush yesterday. Not so today. I had checked that the top of the back was square to face but it wasn't. Squared that up and that increased the light under the square. Same headache on the other side to deal with.

fixed

Initially I was going to use veneer but I had to use 5 pieces to get the height needed. Instead I ripped out a thin piece of pine and planed/sanded it until it was flush with the bearer/cleat.

I am going to use the cove molding from yesterday. I took four shavings off the sides and the front which now I think was the wrong way to go. Having trouble trying to visualize if dropping the base will sink the molding down further against the bottom shelf of the bookcase. I'll find out in the AM.

step one

Painting the base is a two stepper. Step one is painting the underside and the inside. Step two, to come, is painting the outside faces of the sides.

flipped a coin

Heads I left the back natural and tails I painted it. Tails won.

one more two stepper

Got the primer on everything except the two outside vertical faces. I'll do them after the paint has dried for a couple of hours.

the oops

Mishandled the router removing it after I had routed the rabbet. It on the back top and it should face a wall unseen. I am not painting the backside of the back panel.

primer coat done

I will let this go until the AM. Then I will lightly sand it with 320 grit and apply the top coat. I have zero confidence that one will cover. On a brighter note I did like the primer coat - it laid down smoothly with no visible brush marks. Will I get lucky with the top coat?

it is working

The paint is coming off effortlessly with the screwdrivers. I got most of the outside done I would say about 90-95%. The inside is scraping off but it is slow going. Hard to hold it conveniently and scrape. Ideally I like scraping having both hands free. 

If I remember hardly anyone is selling pint cans of oil based enamel. I need red and black - my black can had skimmed over and is total crappola. I have a can of red but it is iffy. I slapped some on a scrap to see what it looks like when I check it in the AM.

accidental woodworker 

base is done

Went together off the saw and fit the bottom of the bookcase. Because of the size of the bookcase I increased the height of the base. Raising it up (about a 1/2") makes it easier to access the bottom shelf.

sigh

Dinged this up taking it off the workbench. I can't leave this as is because it looks too ugly.

fixed

I planed the flat on the front edge and routed the chamfer again. Planed it some more and routed it again. I'm leaving this as it is for now.

no more

I could have planed some more and routed the remaining ding on the chamfer. If I had done that the flat would have been thinner then the chamfer. The both of them are about the same now.

oops

Got the base back on and I wasn't paying attention. The top of the back rail should have been flush with the top of the bearer/cleat. Instead I made it flush with the top of the base. I secured the ends into the sides with Miller Dowels. I already have the fix rattling around in the brain bucket.

saw kerfs

I have to remove/flatten/straighten out about 3/16". Made a bazillion saw kerfs staying just above the pencil layout line. 

working down

This worked better and quicker than I thought. I didn't have to make this dead nuts straight R/L nor maintain a specific height.

flush

This is the only spot, here and on the opposite end, that has to be flush with the bearers/cleats. The bookcase will bear down on the back here.

hmm.......

The cove molding is barely a frog hair below the top of the bottom shelf. I had gone to Lowes but the small molding section was as bare as Mother Hubbard's cupboard. I didn't feel like driving to Home Depot but I might make that road trip tomorrow. I don't have a warm and fuzzy about using this molding.

As I was doing this I thought of routing a chamfer on the base. The base fits fairly well on the front and the left side - the right side has a teeny gap. I'm not sure my OCD will allow me to ignore it.

ouch

Got some tear out on this side that was so ugly the wood actually cried. It was one of the areas on pine that tears out on every compass point. 

still soaking

I went searching for my tools from rehabbing planes and nada. I had made several scrapers with sheet rock knife blades and it is them I wanted to use on this. I'm in no hurry and I've been using small blade screwdrivers as scrapers.

accidental woodworker 

done

Routed the the top and bottom rabbets without any hiccups. Well one hiccup but it is on the back and won't be seen. Squared up the corners and it was ready for the back.

Lowes run

I had to buy a full sheet of 1/4" plywood and they sawed it in half. It was a struggle carrying it out to my truck but I managed. I sawed the back out a wee bit wider and longer then needed. I trimmed/planed it until it fit within the rabbets.

hmm........

Seeing the back fitted is making me wish that I wasn't painting this. I like the 'grain' in this plywood a lot.

base

I am only doing a 3 sided base. The back 'side' I'll deal with after the base is glued and cooked. Tails laid out and sawn - the chopping will start in the AM. 

half pins

Last night I slept through the night without getting up once. Closed the peepers around 1030 and woke up at 0530. I had felt bone weary tired before hitting the rack. Today after lunch I felt the same. I haven't this tired/worn out in a very long time.

Of late I've been getting winded quickly. More frequently now I get out of breath coming up the cellar stairs. Carrying the plywood at Lowes was an eye opening. I have never gotten that out breath carrying a light load for such a short distance.

When I'm working in the shop I don't get winded like I do walking up the stairs. I got a wee bit winded planing the dovetails yesterday but I was able to keep going and finish that job.

Maybe this is the 'bone weary tired' that the oncology nurse said I would experience. I cut short the shop time and spent the rest of the day nodding in/out at my desk. If I'm up to I'll finish the base in the AM and start painting the bookcase.

accidental woodworker

first blurry pic

The dial slipped off the auto setting and a few pics came out blurry. Any ways, I behaved and I let the spacer cook overnight. I resisted the urge to play with last night after dinner.

hmm.......

The plan was to use this screwed up shelf to give up a couple of dividers. I had doodled placing them on paper last night and gave up on it. The design and placement of the dividers was asymmetrical but I couldn't find something that I liked. I tried one divider, then 2, ending with 6. Didn't like any of them and the shelves will remain open and clear R/L. 

lucked out

I planed a profile on the edge of the screwed up shelf. I wanted to see how far inboard the profile ran. The outside edge of it was forward of the end of the notch. I didn't want the profile to be at or behind that notch.

done

Molded the profile, and then I sanded it, both sides, with 120 grit. These are ready to glue in.

#4 and #3

I flushed the tails/pins on the outside faces with the #4 & #3 planes. The sides there needed to be flush because I will be putting a quarter round molding against it. Before flipping it I hand sanded it with 80 grit (to remove pencil marks) followed with 120 grit in my RO sander. 

I will  sand the bookcase up to 120 before painting it. I will also be applying a primer coat. I want to see how the wood sanded to 120 helps/hinders the top coats. I have given up on one coat coverage so I know I will be doing a primer coat followed by at least two top coats.

hmm.......

Dry fitted the back stop thing. This is the 2nd fitting, the first one was too tall. This one is an 1 1/8" tall and 32" R/L. I can glue this on without it interfering with routing the rabbet.

choices made

I rounded the top corners but the first choice was a 22.5° but I nixed that. Instead I routed a 3/8" round over - only on the front edge. I left the back squared off.

glued and cooking

I got this glued and cooking around 1030. I let it cook and set until after I got back to barn after filling the pie hole with fish 'n chips.

Miller Dowels

These dowels are for 1/2" stock but the larger ones for 3/4" stock don't leave much wiggle room. They have to be dead nuts on the center line. I have used these smaller ones for years now without any hiccups or failures. Used 3 per shelf on both ends.

done

Back stop thing is glued, clamped and cooking. It was slightly cupped but I was able to align it easily with the back edge of the bookcase. Routed a chamfer on the front and the two sides.

the base

The base will be 4 1/2" high. The two smaller pieces are the cleats that I will screw on the inside of the base and then screw through them to secure the bookcase on them.

hmm.......

The whole bookcase (except the base) had been sanded. Used the wood putty to fill in the gaps from the pins, the chip blowouts, and the bazillion dings. I may have to do another application in the AM when I check this.

Almost done with bookcase #1. I'll make the base in the AM and start applying primer to the bookcase. The topcoat will be the same color as the dressers I made for Miles and Leo.

The past few days have turned miserable again. High temps and high humidity.  The shop was bearably tolerable and keeping the fan blowing on me helped a lot. Don't know when this will break but it is about normal for this time of the year in New England.  

accidental woodworker 

ta da

I did go back to the shop and chopped the stopped dadoes. First thing this AM I got the top seated in the dadoes. I didn't have to trim/shave either end to get them fitted. However it was awkward and a Royal PITA - I could get one side seated and then I couldn't get the other side seated. Then it seated and the other side would pop out. After see sawing and letting loose with my choicest expletives, I finally got them seated and clamped.

glued and cooking

I had to go to the VA to check on a CT test scheduling SNAFU which IMO resolved nothing. Typical government BS. I like the clean look of the front of the sides. Zero glue squeeze out which is expected because I'm painting this. If it was being left natural I would have had rivers of glue.

oops

Too late to fix this and I'll have to deal with it now. I could have fixed it before I glued it but I didn't want to flip the bookcase (clamped) to check it I. I need this to be flush with the sides so the rabbet top/bottom matches the side rabbets.

close

This is a wee bit higher than the sides. I'll plane it flush after it has been glued and cooked. 

fitting the #3 shelf

I planed the right side end and then I sanded both ends, top/bottom, before fitting it in the dadoes. It was still a snug fit but I didn't have any problems getting it seated with a mallet.

nailed it

Got my 1/8" set back. This will probably increase some because I will plane this edge to smooth/clean it up and mold a profile on it.

sawing notches

The middle (#2) shelf is jinxed. I screwed up sawing the notch on the right and ended up matching the the first screwed up notch on the left end. I went 2 for 3 sawing the right side notches which in baseball ain't too bad.

yikes

It doesn't matter that this isn't square. It didn't show when I got the shelf dry fitted and clamped.

top secured

I put 3 Miller Dowels on each end to secure the top for insurance. I'm thinking of using Miller Dowels for the shelves too.

OCD kicked in

Making a new shelf. I was already having trouble dealing with the one screwed up notch on shelf #2 and with two my OCD went into overdrive. I whacked out a new shelf using the original as the pattern.

I like

Glad that I overhung the top instead of leaving it the same size as the sides. I'm not done with making dadoes. I'm thinking of putting a divider on at least one shelf. 

spacer glued and cooking

There isn't much more left to do on this. Tomorrow I'll decide on dividers and how many. Once that is in the bank, I'll make the base and the back stop thing for the top.

accidental woodworker 

I didn't forget

Made a test rabbet to ensure the fit was ok. This is the plywood I intend to use. Lowes sells 1/2 sheets (48 x48) but it is something that I don't see that often in stock. If not I'll buy a full sheet and have it sawn in half.

done

Adjusting the plunge router is/was a ROYAL PITA. It was stiff, uncooperative, and damn near impossible to nudge up/down a frog hair. It took me a bazillion years to get it to the depth I needed. I left it set on it so I can rout the top and bottom rabbets later.

oops

Had a senior moment and made the notch wrong. It would have been dead nuts if the shelf went in on the long edge. Way out in left field with the shelf in its correct position. Since I'm painting this I will save the off cut, glue it in instead of making a new shelf.

fitted it

The plan is to put the shelves in after the top is glued and set. I don't want the shelves binding and stalling when I do that. I made the shelves a wee looser by planing a few fuzzy shavings off of each side at the ends. I just notched the left ends of the 3 shelves. I'll do the right ends once I get the R/L measurement.

hmm......

The right side has a slight cup to it and the clamps pulled the shelf end tight at the front and back ok. Not sure how well the middle was seated. I will have to make some banana cleats to pull the center in.

glued and cooking

Got the first side/bottom glued. I let this cook for a couple of hours before doing the other side/bottom.

the top

The top will overhang the ends and the front by 3/4". 1x12 stock if usually 11 1/4" to 11 1/2" wide. I sawed off 2" from a 1x12 board and glued on a 3" plus wide piece. I didn't like the idea of gluing on a thin piece to get the required width.

hmm......

The other side glued and cooking. I put spacers on the open end that was the length of the ID measurement. I added a second one after seeing this.

putty work

I filled in the missing blowouts, three on the left one and one on the right. I will most likely have to do at least one more application. The side with three of them were deep and putty shrinks.

top prepped

I planed both sides, flushing the joint lines. This doesn't need to anal retentive dead nuts flat or parallel.

off by 3/8"

I measured the diagonals and they were off by too much to ignore. I couldn't get a tape to measure the diagonals again due to the clamp. So I screwed down on the clamp until Mr Starrett said all four corners were square.

marking the top

I measured and sawed the top to R/L length and laid out 3/4" in from each end for the top dadoes. It was close - aligned the right side on the pencil line and the other pencil line was off by a frog hair. I made a knife tic to mark each end.

ouch

The knife line wandered out into La La Land on me. By the time I noticed it, it was too late. Part of the line looks chewed up pretty good but I think I got the knife line square across the width.

ends

The plan is to not notch the ends of the tops. Instead I will dead end  them into the end of the dado. Ensuring that the ends are crisp and clean.

I had to do it

It was past 1500 but I couldn't wait to see how this screwed up knife line turned out. Where the chisel is, it is where the the worse of the chewed up knife line was. It came out pretty good and I'm happy with the recovery.

left side done

I may or may not wander back to the shop after dinner and whack out the other wall. 

done

I really like this - a reproduction of the original Declaration of Independence. Paper made the way it was in 1776 and printed on printing press from the 1700's. Don't know if it was an original or a reproduction press. Now I have to find a hole for it on a wall somewhere.

accidental woodworker 

before I left

I had my appointment with the the VA this AM and before I left for it I had to check this. I had sawn the 3 shelves to length before checking that they would fit. I measured the baselines between the tails because that is the minimum length that the shelves can be.

plenty of wiggle room

I have the left end on the left end tail baseline. The right end is 3/8" past the top of the tails. I need only 5/8" past the baselines for the shelves to fit R/L. I got lucky and I'll do the final length once the carcass is glued and set.

hmm......

The frame has been soaking for a few days now but the paint isn't coming off with the steel wire brush. However, it came off easily when I scraped it with the chisel. The Simple Green softened it enough for it to be scraped. I'm in no hurry for this so I'll let it soak for a few more days. 

PM session

Used my 2" chisel to chop the dadoes for the shelves. I find that I get straighter walls with a larger chisel.

first one checked

I'm getting a lot better at chopping dadoes. All six of them were snug and needed gentle persausion to seat the shelves in the dadoes. The first right one had an added hiccup of being slightly cupped too.

left side

The left side seated a wee bit easier then the right side. Overall I don't think I'll have any problems putting any of the three into the sides when that time comes.

sigh

I missed seeing where these two decided to hide. I had three before this that I managed to find the chip and glue them back in. These two went instantaneously airborne and went under the radar screen. I had planned to leave the bookcase natural but I will paint them now because these missing chip outs.

not quite

I thought I had fully seated this but it wasn't so boys and girls. I'll have to shave the ends of the shelves to fit looser in the dadoes.

7 Pees upcoming

Proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance. Or in other words, sloppy fitting joints. I want the front edge of the shelves to be about a 1/8" inset from the front edge. As is all three shelves are about 3/8" too wide.

order of operations

I have to glue the tails/pins together, then mark the dadoes for the top. I need a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet all the way around for the back. That has to be done on the sides before I do anything else. I can do the rabbet for the top and bottom after the carcass is together. (the 7 pees)

Tomorrow I'll rout the rabbet on the back edges of the sides. I left the rabbeting bit on the side to remind me. I have the step by step order of operation set in the brain bucket but I have mind farted and skipped ahead more than once.

accidental woodworker 

It rained a lot all day long. At times it came down so hard you couldn't see 3 feet ahead. It looked like a slightly gray, blurry wall. The weather report said rain for 3 hours and that ain't what happened. That isn't the bad part of this equation, it was the humidity. The wet wool blanket type that drenches you every time you blink your eyes. The temp was reasonable at 76F - 25C but the humidity was hovering around 92%. I kept a fan blowing on me at my desk and when I was in the shop. Made it bearable and tomorrow is supposed to better.

original chisel set

I bought this set in the late 1970s and used them for years. I also didn't know until several years later that they were metric. Broke them out today to chop the dovetails for the first bookcase. I used them as is only stropping them before chopping the tales.

left side

Got the tails chopped and moved on to the pins next. Both the left and right side went together off the saw. The plan as of now is to glue one side and let that set up and do the opposite side. Once the sides are set I can then mark the stopped dadoes for the top. Like all plans of Mice and Men, it is subject to change.

right side

It was a bit awkward trying to set the left and right side at the same time and I gave up. I had to check the fit solo and it passed.

hmm.......

Got two shelves out this 7 foot board. Got lucky that the distance between the knots was greater the length of the shelves. There were 3 knots in this board, two a couple inches in at each end, and one about the middle.

double, triple checking myself

I only needed 3 shelves and two of them were mislabeled. I will be setting the width of each dado (R & L) directly off each individual shelf so the labeling needs to be correct.

reference edge for the shelves

Before squaring the ends to length, you need a reference that is flat and straight.

30 1/2"

The shelves are done. The span distance for 3/4" pine without sagging is 30-32 inches. My shelves should end up about 30 1/2" allowing for 1/4" deep dadoes on each end. As I typed this I realized that I might have made a boo boo. Before I settled on the length, I should have confirmed the inside width of the bookcase. I'll find out in the AM and if these are toast I'll save them for the 2nd bookcase.

Got my eyeglasses fixed. It took her about 15 minutes to do it. Found out that the holes not lining up was due to the hinge being broken. I hadn't noticed that and don't see how that would have changed the arm and frame holes from aligning. Important thing is I got my shop glasses back. 

accidental woodworker 

no more red/orange paint

Spent some time this AM playing with the adjustable tenon cutter.  I got 99.99% of the paint removed except for the ratchet arms. There are few spots hiding out in the nooks and crannies that are being obstinate.

sigh

The black paint ain't playing nice nice. The steel wire brush did diddly squat knocking anymore paint off. The paint on this doesn't look that bad but I removed the paint from all the other parts, so I'm bound by law to do the frame. Next batter is stripper.

hmm........

Got the bottom together with no left over parts. All of the screws only fit/go in one place. I was a little apprehensive about remembering that and getting all the screws back where they belong.

1st bookcase

I had to go through all the boards to find two that weren't cupped or bowed. Out of the 12 boards only one (the left one) didn't have a knot in it. I want the carcass of the bookcase to be clear. I'll use the knotted boards for the shelves.

reference edge

Used my #8 to straighten and flatten one edge. Next batter was ripping the four to width. I went back and forth on that and settled on 10 3/4". A 1/4' will be lost for the back panel rabbet leaving the shelves to be 10 1/2" deep.

done

I was surprised that I didn't have any hiccups flattening the edges. I usually have a few dips and humps to deal with. Surprise, I had none on any of the four I planed.

dovetails

Initially I was going to dovetail the top and bottom but I made a left turn. Instead I am dovetailing the bottom and the top I will put in stopped dadoes. I want an overhang on the top and this way I don't waste adding another board to the top.

had to move it

The sides of the bookcase are about 42" long. Where I usually put the Moxon wasn't working. The sides were hitting the workbench foot and sticking up too high. I moved it further over to the left. Even there the sides were sitting on the cellar deck but they weren't sticking up too high. 

sawn out

No problems sawing out the tails, I had clamped the sides together and sawed them as one. I'll chop them out in the AM. I had run out of gas by now. I spent the rest of the PM watching the Welsh chair video reading about it.

accidental woodworker 

 Made a run out to Gurney's Sawmill this AM. Usually I leave my house around 0700 and I get there about 0745-0750. Today I left closer to 0800 because most of the trip is driving due east right into the rising sun. Most people drive that road at absurdly high speeds which scared me the first I drove out there. Wasn't too bad today and Gurney's didn't have a lot of 1x12 pine to pick and chose.

I left there with six 1x12s by fourteen feet, one 1x12 by twelve feet and one 1x12 by ten feet. The plan is to make a couple of bookcases that I'll use for now stowing shop hardware etc etc. After I'm gone the bookcases can go to Miles and Leo. I'll work on making 2 of them while I study the Welsh chair vid I got from LAP.

quick drawing

As a rule I don't like fixed shelf bookcases but this time I'm using fixed shelves. I may add back the extra top shelf, here I nixed it. I have the height where I plan to put them so that is subject to change.

six 7 foot pine boards

Getting these out of the truck and into the shop wasn't hard but it also wasn't easy. Of late I've been getting winded and out breath just blinking too fast. Normally I would have carried these down into the shop 3 boards at a time. Today I did one board at a time and slid them down the cellar stairs.

the rest of the herd

One ten footer cut in half and one twelve footer cut into 5 and 7 foot lengths. Thinking ahead I can get one top/bottom and side out of one 7 foot board.

hmm......

I remembered what this was for. It is an extension for the 5/8" bit. Craig commented that is what he thought it was too. That is what jarred my memory. Supposed, if my memory is still working, the 5/8" bit doesn't splinter and tear out on the exit like other brad point bits.

nope

Still 100% clueless as to what these two doo dads are. I checked the drawer where I kept this to see if there were anymore of them and nada. I don't have more of them that might  have lit a light in the brain bucket.

hmm.......

Got curious and forgot to snap a before pic. I cleaned the top ratchet arm with the steel wire brush lickety split. The bottom is approximately what it looked like in the before 'pic'. 24 hours soaking in Simple Green will strip paint off of metal (with a little help). A couple of nooks and crannies are still holding paint. Couldn't get the wire brush in there and pick wasn't working neither. 

hmm......

The black paint is being stubborn. It wasn't coming off under the wire brush as easily as it did on the ratchet arms. I poured some more Simple Green in the tub and I'll let this soak for another day or two.

knurled knob

The paint is 99% gone from the knurling on the rim. I pretty sure it will disappear entirely once I introduce it to the wire wheel on my grinder.

snagged a pencil

Not many places give out free pencils or similar small items anymore. You can't beat the free advertising a pencil shows. I should have taken two. Next trip if I remember.

the new home

This is where I plan on putting the two bookcases. I mostly want one of them to stow all my nails which probably won't take up more than one shelf. Of course I'll have to find a new hole to stick my off cuts in. 

my first adjustable tenon cutter

I do remember trying this out and it did work. But as you can see from these two screws, a butcher worked on them. The top one secures the center post that is a depth stop. I can't budge that screw and I don't consider myself a weakling.

more abuse on the bottom

The screws securing the iron have had the snot beat out of them too. The iron is made from a file. This tenon maker had a hard life. I bought the 2nd one because of the condition of this. I thought I might be able to use it as a donor?

WTF?

How does the business end look like this? This is deliberate work to alter the stem end. Was it done because the jaws in the brace needed help somehow?

 I'll start on the bookcases in the AM or monday.

accidental woodworker 

my chair making toys

I think, but I'm not 100% sure of, that these are all the toys I need to make the stick chair. However, I have a nagging thought banging on the back of my brain bucket that I'm missing something. I remember trying to buy 'it' from Lee Valley and it being out of stock. Tomorrow I am buying the LAP vid on making the stick chair and I'll figure out what, if anything, I need to add to my herd.

5/8" tenon cutter

The iron in this needs some love. The cutting side of it is chipped and the back is not flat. That is where I started flattening the back starting with 100 grit and ending with 400.

I like shiny

I had to free hand sharpen this one. I was surprised that the angle is less then 25°. I left it as it was and I'll see how well it holds up.

hmm.......

This has an interesting way to secure the iron. The dual screws on the top tilt the iron up/down across the width. The bottom thumb screw secures the iron. I don't have any time on the pond playing with so I don't know the hows and whys for the dual screw setup yet.

spoke pointer

I think that this is what this is called. It makes a conical shape on square stock that the tenon cutter can bite on and make the tenon. They come in different sizes and this is one of two I have. The other one needs an iron.

making a 5/8 tenon

I hadn't noticed it but there is a depth scale on this. I did it until one inch and then at two inches. Both actual tenon measurements were an 1/8" shy - you have to eyeball and that will take some practice before I get it dead nuts. For now an 1/8" off ain't too bad IMO.

hmm.......

Pretty happy with this even though it isn't parallel to the center of the stock. Wasn't expecting the flat end grain at the bottom of the tenon to be so clean. I was expecting a lot more tear out and a ragged out look.

5/8" hole

I have a 5/8" fancy brad point bit but I wanted to use an auger bit to make the hole. This is a practice hole for the tenon I made above.

inch too long

I made the tenon 2" long (actual 1 7/8"). Better to have it too long then a frog hair short.

wedge

Made a wedge out of cherry which the same as the tenon stock. The tenon stock was straight grained on all four sides which made sawing the kerf a little tricky. 

hmm......

The wedge expanded and locked the tenon in the hole. I wasn't sure that I had made the tenon fat enough to do that, but I had. Screwed up on the orientation. I aligned the wedge parallel to the pine grain. There is a slight crack above and below the tenon.

it is finally time

I have had this adjustable tenon cutter for a few years and never got around to restoring it. I have two of these and this one is the best. The other has been used, abused, and put away wet. It has the scars of a lot of use that wasn't done kindly. I'm going to restore it now because I might need/want to make a tenon wider/smaller then 5/8".

stripping the paint

Back when I was going nutso rehabbing planes and such, someone left a tip about Simple Green. I don't remember who but a big shout out to you. I had left a hand drill soak in Simple Green for a day and all the paint just fell off. I will let this soak until tomorrow and I'll check it then.

hmm.....

For the life of me I can not remember exactly this is or what it is used for. All I can recall about it is Chris S from LAP used it so I bought one. Anyone out there know what it is?

spray shellac

Got 3 coats on the bottom before lunch. That is all I am laying on there. I couldn't do anything else with my chair making toys so I did this.

flushed

Sawed, planed, and sanded the tenon/wedge flush. I have wedged square/rectangular tenons and this is my first round one.

hmm.......

The flat on the bottom of the tenon was flush with the pine all the way around. Three sides were gap free and one had a gap. I pulled on this grasping it at the bottom and pulling it with all I had. It held. It didn't groan, squeal, or bend in the least. For whatever reason, a 5/8" tenon seemed to be weak to me. 

two coats on the top

These will be done today. I think I'll add a couple more coats to the top - 5-6 because the interior will get more wear/tear then the bottom and sides.

I heard back from Lee Valley about getting a spare saw blade for their gents saw. $62 which I declined. A new gents saw is $74 - the cost savings isn't there. I was hoping it would be in the mid $30s. I'll order another saw and send the one I have now out to be sharpened.

accidental woodworker 

 Left for my VA appointment at 0700 to get my blood work done. The blood draw waiting room was almost full. I guess the hurry up and wait mentality of the military never goes bye bye. I had the blood draw early so it would be done by the time of my oncology appointment at 0830.

That appointment went well. The doc said some people don't experience any side effects and others go over the deep end. I guess I'm lucky that other then some brief nausea I have had no other side effects. My blood work looked good with only my white blood cell count being low. The doc said that was due to chemo and it effects how well I can fight off infections. 

I had my Rx for the nausea medication refilled and that took a bazillion hours of waiting before it got filled. It was a little after ten before I got it and headed back to the barn. On the way home I stopped at the eye clinic to get my eyeglasses fixed. That didn't happened and I had to make an appointment which is for this monday. 

after lunch

I didn't get to the shop until after lunch. I took one box out of the clamps and checked the fit where it will live. The segmented box in the front is one of two boxes that aren't as wide. Wasted space for debris to pack itself in.

all four

I sanded the 3 boxes with 80 and 120 grit. No finish on them and I'm leaving them bare for now. I have spray shellac that I could use but I wasn't in the mood for it.

tenants signed their leases

This will probably change as I use these. The only hiccup with them is they fill up with all the crappola I generate working at the bench.

came a week early

My pic of the bumblebee orchid came today. It surprised me because I thought there were  actually 3 bumblebees on this plant. The 'bumblebees' are the flowering part of the orchid.

checked the fit

The margin for the mat is what I had planned. The hunt for the color of it isn't going to be easy. I thought I had one picked but seeing the green background of the photo against the off white frame has me second guessing myself. 

accidental woodworker

 I am now in the 8th day post my chemo cocktail. Still waiting for even a hint of the side effects the nurse told me about. Other than a twinge of nausea on day 2 and 3, nada. She said I would lose my taste for foods I liked, I would be nauseous, sleep would change, and that I would feel tired. She stated the worse of it usually says hello in 7-10 days. Two more days left for that and I have an appointment with oncology tomorrow at 0830.

In spite of this, I had a great day in the shop. I went to the shop a little after 0800 and worked until lunch around 1130. Filled the pie hole, made a quick trip to the grocery store, and returned to the shop before 1300. Killed the lights at 1435. Been a while since I worked in so many hours in an AM session. I feel good, with nothing shaking hands with me or simmering away in the background. If my blood work is good tomorrow my 2nd chemo cocktail should happen on August 11th.

hmm......

Not exactly something you could shave from. I had already scraped off some debris - mostly glue. Underneath the router is my surface plate which I'll use to clean and smooth the bottom of the router.

320 grit

I didn't go nutso on this. I used 320 and 400 grit and the goal was to get the bottom smooth to the touch.

sharpening the iron

It wasn't that bad doing the two irons. My fingers didn't cramp or ache before, during, or after. Which was a lot different from the last time I sharpened either of these. Used the coarse, fine, and extra fine diamond stones.

worked

Stropped them both with this. Worked better than I expected. 

hmm......

The inside of the frame at all four corners, was dead nuts 90°. Not so for the outside corners. All four were slightly off 90°. That was due to me planing the outside edges - I didn't attempt to check/keep the outside miters at 90°.

ditto

The bigger frame was the same but the outside miters were not out as far as the little one.

hadn't planned on this, but.....

The well I have behind my workbench had a couple of boxes there. Two of them weren't exactly user friendly - one was too small and the other too big. So I decided to make three boxes all the same size and ones that fill up the well.  The bigger boxes will be easier to get the crappola I keep in them in/out.

sigh

The width is a wee bit more than the length of the end. Two of the boxes will be the same size and this one will be exactly 3 frog hair shorter in the width.

ready for glue

Dry fit had some fits that I had to address. I had to trim each of the bottom panels before the band clamps pulled the miters tight.

hmm......

I had to make one poor man's miter box by hand. This one has only one miter and one 90. The idea is this will be the jig to make a quick miter or a square end cuts.

hmm......

I would give these two cuts a 92 out of a hundred. The 45 is just a frog hair high on the heel. I wonder if the old masters had these problems. 

sigh

The vertical cut sucks. That is way too nuch light. The vertical saw cuts on the jig looked to be square when checked with my 4" Starrett square. The stock was square all around when I checked that too.

hmm......

Easily squared it with two strokes with a chisel. Squaring the heel also helped with the 45.

the fault

I knifed a square line parallel to the heel cut. The tapered saw cut has bit me on the arse again.

small saw didn't work

nope

Did two 90 saw cuts and both were the same. It was two frog hairs off. 

how long

My last poor man's miter box lasted about 3-4 months. I will put the one I just made in the vise for daily shop use and reserve the other two for making mitered frames.

accidental woodworker

outta the clamps

Flushed the corners, front and back, with a plane. All the miters are still tight and gap free and I couldn't break it apart with my hands.

nope

All four corners held when I whacked it against the lally column. I was impressed because every mitered frame I've made before this was toast (without some reinforcement). I can't think of any that survived me breaking them with my hands. This survived both tests.

kind of done

Pleased with how this looks. The finish is smooth with no streaks or 'non shiny' spots. This paint is a semi gloss enamel and it can be tricky painting but the rattle can excelled.

2nd miter box

Came up short using my usual (small) carcass saw (had to try it). I needed another 1/2" or so more saw plate.

old poor man's miter box

Broke it up and this will give up two cleats that I'll glue to the miter box bottoms. That is what will hold the miter box in the vise.

90° test cut

The face cut was dead on but the vertical one wasn't. I thought the cut was toast but it was the stock. It wasn't square which was a relief.

yesterday's 90° test cut

The test miter I made with dowels is what I used to saw a couple of 90s. Dead on the face and vertical.

hmm....

I've found with the dozens of these I've made over the years that the fence with the saw cuts in them go south quickly. There isn't any support for them and they slowly move, opening the saw cut making the miters worse. To help delay that I am going to glue a thin piece of pine to the back to span the saw cuts and strengthen it.

glued and cooking

The pine I glued on the back was a few frog hairs shy of 3/8" thick. 

done

It doesn't span the entire saw cut and I didn't see any need for that. I believe most of the help is needed at the bottom between the platform and the fence.

test cuts

Wee bit disappointed with the test cuts. The 90 was dead on but the miters were off. Both the right and left miter heels were a frog hair high. If I pushed them into Mr Starrett they looked good. Pushed in loosely, the heel was high. Maybe I'm being too anal about this because the R&L miters went together at 90°.

accidental woodworker

hmm.......

Liking the look of the finish so far on this frame. One spot that isn't cooperating is the flats on the beads. I had to tilt the the frame to get coverage in there. It took 3 coats to barely cover it.

painting is done

I'm calling this pic frame done, paint wise. It was still sticking to the blue painters tape so I'll let it hang out on the dryer for a few days. Once it isn't sticky anymore I'll spray on a couple of coats of shellac.

poor man miter box stock

Going to try something different this time. I will start with making two boxes with 1/2" oak plywood and a scrap of 5/8" pine. I have a couple of 1x12 pine boards but I'm holding them for later. If these two work, I will make at least one more box with it.

first box

Glued the back stop to the platform and clamped it to the tablesaw fence. It is dead nuts 90 between the two. I let it set in for 15 minutes and then screwed the back to the platform. The fence was long enough to clamp both boxes to it.

another jig

This is a sawing aid for 90° vertical cuts. Made it out of an off cut of a 2x4 and pine scraps. One of my continuing headaches with making boxes is I (so far) can't saw a 90° vertical cut. This should ensure that I get that saw cut dead nuts.

change of plans

Instead of using the newly made 90° jig I used a 1 2 3 block. Clamping the jig to the box and then securing the box in the vise wasn't working. This set up worked. I used my biggest carcass saw to saw it - there is plenty of saw plate under the spine. 

45 sawing aid jig

This 2x4 has been hanging out in the shop for at least a year and it should be done with stupid wood tricks. If not I'll whack out another one. Sawed the the 45 on the tablesaw with my Osbourne miter jig. Wasn't expecting this to come out dead nuts on 45. The plan was to saw it out rough and sweeten it on the miter shooting jig.

hmm.......

It was looking like I needed two 45 jigs - one for the left and one for the right. I didn't try to over analyze it but I couldn't see an easy way to make one 45 to do both R & L. 

sigh

I like this miter gauge a lot. I had bought it because Norm had one so I had to have one too. That aside, since I've had it, whenever I saw an angle when I set it back to zero it will be off. Will not a saw a 90. It is relatively easy to adjust and set but it is an annoying PITA. BTW the miter gauge has preset stops for 90, 22.5 and 45.

dead on 90

When I adjust the miter gauge for 90 I start with narrow piece of scrap around 6-8". Once that is square I confirm with wider scrap.

upcoming

Both of my large routers need their irons sharpened, especially the closed throat one on the right. That is the one I use the most too. It wouldn't cut and make a shaving on the dadoes I made in the 90 and 45 sawing jigs. I'll deal with these two in the AM, not that I'm looking forward to that finger cramping, aching feeling.

my biggest non electric screwdriver

I put two #12 FH screws in 90 and 45 jigs to secure the clamping board in each jig.

test time

Try as I might I couldn't get the 45 jig and the miter box secured in the face vise. Clamped the 45 to the back and then secured the box in the vise at an angle. The 2x4 has a large registration face for the saw to bear against. Sawing at an angle wasn't issue as long as I kept the saw plate up tight and personal against the 2x4.

test frame

No problems sawing the 45s R&L. Both looked good with no obvious hiccups. I sawed a test frame out of scraps I dug out of the shitcan. Based on this first frame I don't see this miter box having any longevity - it is just a frog hair above flimsy feeling.

dry fit

So happy with this that I could wet myself. All four corners fell into each other naturally. I didn't have tug and pull any of them in close the miters.

glued and cooking

I'll find out in the AM how well this behaved. Based on the ease of it clamping up I don't expect any headaches.

2nd box

Forgot to snap a pic of the 90 practice cuts. I checked both boxes for that and both were dead on 90. I'll saw the 45s in this one in the AM. I'll use my current miter box to saw out a couple of strips to glue on the bottoms to have something to clamp them in the vise.

 accidental woodworker