Norse Woodsmith Blog Feeds

So many tricks and tips for dovetailing your corner joints, but seldom do you hear, "Get it straight off the saw," as it was said to me. This has been my way for six decades to date, ever since I heard George, my apprenticing mentor, say the same words. This mantra stayed with me, and the only time a pare cut action from a chisel edge comes is when I did indeed miscut slightly with the saw; a very great rarity and not normal at all. And as it was with George, don't put off establishing skill and ability as early as possible in your work. You do not get there by procrastination. Overcoming white-paper syndrome (WPS)* is critical to fine woodworking.

Saw-cut dovetails should be or become your default position; that's positioning of hand-eye-body cooperation and coordination. Anything else is just a poor substitute. Other wise gurus will say, "Use blue masking tape" or, as in a Fine Woodworking article some years back, "Pare cut in increments until you reach the final fit," and then, "Creep up on the line and always use a knife and never a pencil." I say go for the cut line with the saw and only touch the surface with a chisel if you did mistakenly miss the exact angle and slightly miscut accidentally somewhere in the mix. Creeping around tails and pins, creating a super-smooth surface with a chisel generally creates other problems, including a poorer fit. Can mating surfaces be just too smooth for a good glue key of mating faces? Well, of course they can. Many times have I seen glass-smooth meeting surfaces in other situations, edge-gluing, for instance, part with a surprising 'pop' because of smoothness, and then too wood itself can be the keying problem.

My current two projects are to be samplers, examples of different dovetailing. Each corner of the project and each side to the box is a different wood type; common, half-lap, and hounds-tooth will fix the corners in permanence. The challenges vary by the number of tails, so what am I hoping to achieve? Well, the box is of secondary importance. It's the carrier through which we will learn differences in a single project with multiple considerations and challenges. Which wood compresses, and by how much? Will it swell back in the glue-up, or is it fixed for eternity? These things are experienced only through handwork and hand cutting into the wood. A machinist never learns of such things by machining their stock, and reading of compressibility never conveys the sentient value of handwork. At the end of the course, I will own two boxes, and so will you if you follow the exemplar.

So the video series intentionally and realistically bridges the gaps we encounter when considering one dovetail type over another and encourages the work of trialing you might never find in regular furniture making. You must intentionally defy the norms we know as equal and balanced. It's stickily abnormal. Defying that which would normally be a composition and complementarity. At this point, we should see that the purpose is not the finished box nor the appearance of it and in it, but the experience of making differently for the gain of knowing. There's a vision in it, an outcome resulting in relational knowing, and by the knowing comes the experiential understanding of deep knowledge you can attain no other way. The corners of my boxes, in their dynamism, come from making the different dovetails of each type in very different woods and quite readily in a single simple project. Not everyone can experience this the way I have through six decades of near daily making so many dovetails. Who do you know that has made over a hundred thousand dovetails since they made their first one?

And the wonderful thing about such mechanical joints, a dovetail joint is a mechanical joint, is the holding power they have to stay together before the third component and swelling power of glue, which ultimately expands the surface fibres into the joint via every married surface. Water-based glues enter the surface fibres on contact, swelling the fibres on adjacent pieces into one another. These fibrous surfaces occur more distinctly and profusely with sawn surfaces, whereas pare cut surfaces leave almost no fibre.

I drew out my dovetails full size in my workbench notebook. This is always important to me. It makes me think, and thereby consider possible mistakes by reaching into a future yet to be. Drawing also makes you look and see. This key to planning should never be skipped. It becomes an anchor point for every designer and crafting artisan to return to at pivotal junctions in the progress of work.

Anyway, including all of the trade secrets I know of in this series of upcoming videos has made it a good day and week for me. Hopefully you can join me on the journey towards future craftsmanship.

*White paper syndrome occurs mainly at the opening of a blank page where text or drawing intimidates our placing of lines and words for fear of 'messing up.' This psychological block is characterized by a paralyzing anxiety when facing an empty workspace, canvas, or document. Often stemming from perfectionism, fear of failure, and an overwhelming self-doubt in our ability to start something of value from scratch. Symptoms include procrastination, staring blankly, and avoidant behavior leading to deepening levels of stress and pronounced agitation. It frequently flares up during periods of high stress, fatigue or when high-stakes deadlines are looming.

I wrote about this on my substack blog the other day but realized I should put it here too, just in case. I got news last week that Vimeo on Demand is going to shut down. I have several videos posted there – so if you have bought any of those – first of all – thanks, those videos were/are a lot of work, but also a lot of fun. And I appreciate the support I got from readers who bought them…helped me keep my head above water. Once they disappear from Vimeo, I’ll still have them – and I’ll try to find a new way to make them available. BUT – this part’s important – IF you did buy them (or if you do before Sept 21, 2026)- download them before they vanish. That deadline is Nov 20th. Here’s what their email said:

Starting on September 21, 2026:

• Customers won’t be able to make new purchases or start subscriptions

Between September 21, 2026 and November 20, 2026:

• Your existing VOD content will remain available to customers who already purchased it
• Your seller account will remain accessible

On November 20, 2026:

• Vimeo On Demand will be phased out completely
• All VOD listings will be removed
• Customers will no longer be able to access previously purchased content

This link is to a page on my website pointing to a number of the videos – https://www.peterfollansbee-joiner.com/videosondemand

That page links to several videos – two on carving – one about strapwork patterns and the other about S-scrolls that come from Dedham, Massachusetts

strapwork pattern

There’s also furniture projects; the joined chest with a drawer and two chairs – one the Jennie Alexander chair and the other an Alpine/German/Swiss, etc “brettstuhl”.

Braintree chest w drawer, 2022

There’s two videos that came after that page was created – one about carving this pattern:

Here’s the link to that one – https://vimeo.com/ondemand/honeychurchpattern

And most recently, a work-in-progress, about the cupboard that’s the subject of my newest book from Lost Art Press – The Essex County Cupboard

I have at least one more video to add to that set – but the collection isn’t so much a how-to of every step of building that cupboard, but a view into many of the individual steps – right now, there’s 10 “chapters” totaling almost 5 hours of video.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/504407

All right. Just a heads-up. Nothing lasts forever…

sigh

There are two miters that slipped by each other. This corner is the worse and the one I had noticed yesterday. It would seem that using my fingers to keep the bottom flush didn't work worth diddly squat.

almost perfect

This scrap of pine was left over after making the bandings. It is one frog hair below the lowest misaligned corner. I used it to to plane the height of the inside bandings down to it.

outside bandings dry fitted

No hiccups this time - got all four bandings on and fitted the first time. I didn't have to make another one as an oops. 

glued and cooking

I did the outside bandings a different way this time. Usually I take all the bandings off and glue (nail or clamp) them back on one at a time. This time I left the first 3 bandings still clamped and I glued/nailed the last one I fitted. I then unclamped the 3rd banding I dry fitted and glued and nailed that one. Washed, rinsed, and repeated it for the last two. I will do bandings like this the next time. No surprises with open miters or one banding (usually the last one) being short.

#3 iron

The 3 planes I use the most needed some love. The #3 and #4 had chips on the bevel edge that I had to fix. I started with the #3 because it had several small and one large chip. I had to break out my water stones because these 3 Lie Nielsen planes have A2 irons. Diamond stones will sharpen A2 irons but nowhere as well as water stones do. I am no longer a fan of water stones - they are messy and water gets all over everything. 

#3 is done

This one took a while to do. The large chip was being a PITA trying to remove. The 220 water stones will hog a lot of metal off but not as fast as 100 grit sandpaper does.
 

#4 done

Got the RML shavings out of the #4 on the first try. Got RML shavings on the first try with the #3 also. It was 1516 when I got the #4 done. The 5 1/2 will get done in the AM.

I ordered the wood for the LAP welsh stick chair. I picked cherry because next to pine it is my favorite wood. Don't know when I'll get but the S/H was $62 - can we say ouch together?

accidental woodworker

 I have been finishing carving this lion, while the exhibition has been on.

He's going to be polychromed. The exhibition finishes tomorrow, so I have given him a coat of gesso, and I'll leave the rest until I am back in the workshop.

Today, I was planing up a panel, so visitors got to see a bit of joiner's work. It hotted up by noon, so I switched to laying out the panel. There were so many visitors, that I spent most of the afternoon talking. A view from behind the bench.

It has worked well, having this cage up. It means people and children have been able to get up close to see what's happening, but still be safe from edge tools. Also, something to hang stuff on.

two of three

Forgot that I had these. Made 3 jigs for holding stock to plane the end grain flat and square. The 3rd one I tossed because the stop had warped and flattening it would not have been worth the effort and calories.

hmm.....

Almost clear and empty. It had been a long time since so much real estate had been laid bare on my workbench. At the far end I had to glue my sandpaper tearing thing back together.

wow

No before pic but this corner is finally cleared out. I've been dumping all kinds of crappola here for months. I can open the bottom drawer of the dresser now without having to spend 20 minutes clearing away the crappola in front of it.

practice frame

I made this frame to test using dowels to secure the miters. I find a pic last night that I am going to put in it. I am going to band the outside and inside edges. One miter corner has a blown out dowel hole that it will hide.

dry fitted

Gluing the inside first because it is the easier one of the two to do. Got a good snug fit and gluing and cooking is next.

cooking

One of the bandings shifted when I clamped it and I didn't notice until I had all the clamps on. It was too late to fix as the glue had seized already. I'll will plane the inside banding all around down to the lowest point. 

I slept good last night in spite waking up 3 times. I was able to fall back asleep each time and rolled out of the rack before 0600. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to finish cleaning up and organizing the shop. I took my time but I didn't get winded this time and I didn't have to take any rest stops. Some days are good this way and others I struggle to work at a steady pace.

Other then the frame project on the bench, still haven't come up with something new to make. Or for that matter, something old to make again. Maybe I'll dream up something tonight.

accidental woodworker

 The sky looked weird here in my part of the universe. They are a sickly grayish color with a yellow tint. I thought there were some thunder boomers coming or maybe even something stupid like a tornado. Turns out there are wild fires in Canada and the smoke is drifting south. I had seen it a few days ago in a couple of Canadian blogs I read. Didn't think it would wander down and shake hands with me.

ta da

Found them by mistake. I wasn't looking for them where I was working at the time. Everything was there along with instructions. I have a a couple of vids on making this, both of them from LAP. I'll be reviewing them again and again. 

needed a box

Still haven't finished cleaning up and organizing the shop. It was while doing it that I needed this box to stow some things I found cleaning up. Quick and easy box to whack out. 

While this was cooking I went to the Frame it Shop and dropped off two more frames for Maria. The one I had left was ready for pick up.

for the son in law

My son in law raises orchids and flesh eating plants. He also likes to dig out/reveal fossils from rocks. And I forgot that he has an aquarium with strange things - colorful creatures and worth the the time to watch. He had told me that he did woodworking as kid mostly making bird houses.

how long......

I threw away a lot of scraps yesterday and today. This spot had a ton and half of scraps that I fought my OCD to shitcan. I tossed a lot that I have had here for a couple years now. Difficult for me to do but I haven't used them so it was time to go.

done

This and arranging the piles in the above pic are what I got done today. I left it on the workbench because I couldn't remember what I wanted to put in it.

I didn't sleep well last night. I woke up before 0400 and couldn't fall back to sleep. I watched You Tube until 0600 when I finally rolled out of the rack. I felt blah - ish all day long. I nodded out at my desk after lunch for a while and I only went back to the shop in the PM to get my camera. Maybe tomorrow I'll finish the clean up/organization. 

Been trying to think of something to make but I keep drawing a blank. My wood supply is a bit on the sparse side too. I was thinking of making a Gurney's sawmill run on saturday but this saturday ain't looking too good weather wise. I think I can work around the weight limit by handling one board at a time.

accidental woodworker 

So the exhibition is going well. There have been lots of appreciative comments. 3-4 "the best exhibition I have ever seen in Totnes". Lots of positive feedback. Lots of interesting conversations. Not one stupid question or negative comments. Happy days!

Lots of explaining about the influences that fed into East Devon carved joined furniture/Exeter strapwork. Talked to people from Totnes Museum and St. Mary's church about getting this knowledge out to the community.

Put on show the furniture, boxes, spoons and carved bowls. My paintings and Bethany's (my daughter's on the mantelpiece. Bethany's reed-woven turned stool and milking stool! All in 16th century Birdwood House.

Sold one of my favourite spoons; it's gone to be a green tea scoop, so I am sure it will be well loved.

The lion I am carving is almost done and ready to start painting tomorrow. Lots more fun to be had before close at 4pm on Saturday, so come on down if you're in the area. But here's a photo dump for those who can't.

No new project on the horizon but I have one hanging out in the back of the brain bucket. It is a stick chair - I have the patterns for a LAP stick chair. I don't have the stock for it but it is looking like the #1 project. When I was looking for the patterns/plan that I decided to clean up and organize the shop. At the end of the day I still hadn't found the plans and hadn't cleaned up and organized the shop.

hmm.....

It has been a long time since my workbench was clear. I've been working on one small area around the face vise for over a month. It would be nice to have this down to bare wood before I start new project.

my first half blinds

This is one box of two that I did that day. One box had 1 in 6 dovetails and the other 1 in 8. Not too bad for my first attempt at half blinds.

the other end

I couldn't find the other box and I spent 20 minutes searching for it.

1 in 6 box

!4 years old and it is still together. I don't use this box to stow anything, it is just so I can look back and compare this to what I'm doing now.

working from the left to right side of the shop

I remember being able to walk by this end of the tablesaw. It took me over an hour to clear out all the scraps of wood I had piled up here. 

It was tough working in the shop today. We are in another heat wave but that was manageable. I had problems with all the dust I was kicking up. Even with a mask it difficult for me to work. I was getting short of breath and winded too easily. I spent almost as much time resting and catching my breath as I did cleaning things up.

After a couple of hours I said No Mas. I'm post surgery 6 weeks now but my stamina still isn't 100%. I'm probably only hitting around 70-75%. My wife says my breathing is shit (her words) so I know its serious for her to say it that way. But she also said that yesterday it sounded much better. Not sure if it is the lung surgery or the ILD, which the doctors haven't figured out yet. I'll get back to it tomorrow and do what I can.

the wife's work

This is the reading nook that my wife wanted in the boneyard. I thought it would have taken up half of it but it only took about a 1/4. I'll tackle arranging the other 3/4 once the medical team clears my weight lifting restrictions.

accidental woodworker 

For years I have looked at my website statistics and wondered how many of those numbers represented real people. Like many content creators, I have questioned whether the visitors were genuine readers or simply numbers generated by search engines, bots or people simply passing through. The recent poll has given me my first real glimpse behind those statistics.

The participation was very low and, at first glance, that might seem disappointing. But after reading the responses, I came away with a very different conclusion. The people who took the time to vote were not random visitors. They were genuine readers who have followed my work for years. Some told me they would rather hear my own voice than have AI narrate my articles. One reader even said they loved my work so much that they would never unsubscribe, but they would rather hear me than AI. Comments like that mean far more to me than hundreds of anonymous page views ever could.

What surprised me even more was that one of those readers had never left a comment before. That single fact speaks volumes. It confirms what I have suspected for a long time. Many people are reading, watching and following my work without ever interacting. They do not leave comments. They do not click Like. They do not send emails. They simply follow my work discreetly and move on.

As creators, we often judge the success of our work by visible engagement. We look at comments, likes, shares and subscriptions because those are the only things we can actually see. The silent majority remains invisible. This poll reminded me that the silent majority is very real. It also explains why website statistics and video views often feel disconnected from audience interaction. Thousands of people may read an article, but only a tiny fraction will ever say a word. That does not necessarily mean they did not enjoy it. It simply means they are observers rather than participants.

Would I have liked more people to vote? Absolutely. But the poll still achieved something valuable. It proved there are genuine people behind those numbers, people who have been following my work for years without ever making themselves known. Because of this, I will return to doing what I have always done. I will continue creating content in my own way, writing about the things I am passionate about and letting my work speak for itself rather than chasing engagement numbers.

So perhaps the lesson here is not that I have a small audience. Perhaps it is that I have a large audience that prefers to remain silent.

To everyone who took the time to vote, and especially to those who left thoughtful comments, thank you. Your few minutes of participation answered questions I have had for years and reminded me that even when the comments section is quiet, someone is still reading.

huh?

It is a moot point as the striker will go in but there is no spring pressure to cause it to leave a dimple. I tried adjusting the bottom spring and it did nothing. It isn't big enough to be a paperweight but I can't bring myself to shitcan it neither. Another dust collector for the shop.

hmm......

Yes this was an extra. I don't see the need to have duplicates, I can confuse myself without help from the peanut gallery. Tossed this one and made a new one.

driver caddy

Decided to keep this and rearrange the drivers. The yellow one is a #1 Robertson driver. I have never seen a #1 square drive screw but it came with the set I bought from Lee Valley.

the fix

I filled in some of the hole for the #1 so it was sticking up above the surface. All the drivers on the back row are L to R #1 to #3 for each type of driver. 

Vix block #3

Three times is the charm and this is the proof. Made this longer L/R and spaced the Vix bits apart a wee bit more.

bottom

I drilled all the holes for the drivers straight through. It is a Royal PAIN in the Arse setting the depth stop on my drill press. Gluing a thin piece on the bottom shuts the holes.

back home again

I like these caddys for stowing things like this. Any empty hole tells me something is MIA.

I had a brain MRI today and it took up my entire PM session. It took almost 2 hours to do and the tech said that I didn't move and he didn't have to redo any of the scans. I have had several MRIs to date and this one was the most uncomfortable one I have had. My back was screaming at me for a while before it calmed down. Don't know why the oncology doc ordered it and I'll ask here about in on my first chemo fill up.

accidental woodworker 

There’s no clear water from a muddy well.

-Patrick Rothfuss, The Wise Man’s Fear

Sawdust production is the essence of woodworking, but a little planning early in the process will always result in more efficient work.

In this article we’ll examine the four planning tools and documents critical to efficient woodworking, and which beginners to the craft need to know (whether they decide use them or not): (1) Design drawings; (2) Bill of materials or cutting list; (3) Cost estimate and; (4) Schedule, or programme.

Planning Tool No. 1 – Drawings

A drawing of a 6-panel entry door. It needs dimensions and a cross-section, but as drawings go, it’s a good start. BTW, this style of door is also called a “cross and bible” door because the arrangement of rails and mullions in the top half create a cross, while the two panels in the lower half can be imagined to represent the Old and New Testaments in the Bible, three features that are said to prevent evil from crossing the threshold of such a door. Many say this is totally coincidental, but in light of the superstitions surrounding doors and entrances since ancient times, I think not.

There’s not enough time or space in this humble website to discuss drawings in any detail, but for purposes of solidifying your thoughts into a goal, and determining the objectives necessary to reach that goal, you will need a design, of some sort, recorded in a drawing, of some sort.

Without a drawing, even if it’s just a sketch on a paper napkin using a drinking straw and ketchup, you have no plan. And without a drawing, you lack the most important tool to maintain quality, cost and schedule. Do any of these factors matter to you?

For this purpose you would be wise to own the tools and develop the skills necessary to make simple technical drawings of your project including plan views, elevations (side views of all six sides) and cross sections. Isometric drawings are nice too, but not mandatory for most projects.

A computer with CAD software won’t hurt, but such expensive, complicated tools are not necessary unless you’re required to submit design drawings for review and approval by a paying Client, or perhaps She Who Must Be Obeyed. If a paying client, make sure you allow time in your schedule, and funds in you budget if you are paying a draftsman or CAD monkey, to revise and resubmit drawings. I strongly advise you to never begin making sawdust before your Client has approved (and ideally, signed) the design drawings, even if they’re drawn in Heinz ink.

For simple projects, such as furniture or joinery, dimensioned pencil drawings on plain paper will usually suffice. So you’ll need paper (mylar drafting paper is worth the cost for its durability), a board to tape your drawing paper to while you’re working on it, drafting or masking tape to secure the drawing, a square (a framing square will work fine), a 45˚plastic, steel or aluminum drafting triangle, and a straightedge to guide your lines, a pencil and eraser, a scale (e.g. 1/4″= 1′), a divider or two, and a drafting scale.

Planning Tool No. 2 – Cutting List or Bill of Materials

Once your design drawing is near completion, you can get started on making a Cutting List or Bill of Materials (BoM)

A BoM (AKA Materials List) lists all the pieces, parts, components and supplies required to fabricate the project. You may not need that much detail, but you will absolutely need a Cutting List. The following are the primary reasons for making a cutting list:

• Efficiency: Reduces guesswork and speeds up the build process.
• Accuracy: Ensures each part is laid-out, measured and cut correctly.
• Material Management: Helps you to accurately estimate the quantity of lumber needed, it’s minimum length, width and thickness, as well as its cost.
• Organization: Keeps your workflow structured, so you know what to cut and the most efficient order to cut each part.
• Reproducibility: Acts as a record should you want to recreate the project in the future.

A cutting list is simply a table, often written in MS Excel, Google Sheets, other spreadsheet software or even by hand on a paper notepad in ketchup. Professionals purchase or develop cutting list computer templates for the type of project they typically undertake, but this only make sense in production work.

List all the major wooden components in this table, including the name of each part, its location in the assembly, all its dimensions (length, width, thickness) and species of wood, if more than one is used, and its designation. If special surfaces treatments (e.g. roughsawn, hewn, adze, paint, stain, pink candy apple glitter with rhinestones, etc.)

Regarding the term “designation,” this is simply a non-permanent marking convention you employ at your discretion. Whatever method you choose, you need to be able to place this mark quickly, legibly and directly on each part, in pencil or lumber crayon. Indelible marking pen, for instance, is not good because it’s permanent and can bleed through the finish months after the project is finished.

A glance at any mark you’ve made should tell you exactly where it belongs within the assembly in an instant.

I use a version of the cabinetmaker’s triangle. Include these marks in the cutting table to describe each individual part. Please also mark this designation directly on the wood so there is absolutely no confusion.

Consistency is mandatory and care must be taken to avoid confusion. If you do a good job developing your marking convention it will serve you well for many years and many projects turning cursing and confusion to deep satisfaction. This is a big step in developing professional-level skills.

Dictum: Popwoodwork: FineWoodwork

Can you get by without a cutting list? Sure you can. But you save nothing by not preparing one, not even time, and can loose much. Moreover the process is excellent training that will give you confidence moving forward. It may improve your overall analytical capabilities too.

Planning Tool No. 3 – Cost Estimate

If Gentle Reader’s has bottomless pockets, such that the quantity and quality of wood available to you are unlimited, then a cost estimate may be unnecessary. But even then, I encourage you to prepare a cost estimate because, as a wise construction estimator named Warren (RIP) once told me, you can never truly understand a project until you’ve made a cost estimate. Why? Because to make a cost estimate you need to analyze the project in detail and list (1) all the materials and (2) the dimensions and quantity of the parts, calculate anticipated waste, estimate the time to make and assemble all the parts, and then multiply the quantity of materials (perform a quantity takeoff) required by the cost of those materials, and add the labor cost.

As you can see, a cost estimate is the natural expansion of a cutting list, which is a natural extension of a design drawing.

This may not be an easy job, but if you aspire to professional-grade skills, then the exercise is worthwhile even if the resulting accuracy the first few times is not stellar. Two steps forward one step back is still progress!

Planning Tool No. 4 – Schedule

Part of creating a final cost estimate, as in a commercial bid, is to breakdown the work required to accomplish the project into pieces and assign a time value and unit price to each, analyze the best workflow combining all the tasks, and then to insert this information into a document called a “schedule” in countries influenced by USA where the CPM (critical path method) schedule was first formally developed for planning and managing factory shutdowns and shipbuilding, or a “Programme” in the UK, or a kouteihyou （工程表) in Japan.

A schedule is the actual step-by-step plan for the build. Is it absolutely necessary to write one? No, of course not, but until you can write a simple schedule, you don’t have a real plan, just a SWAG (scientific wild-ass guess).

Computer programs are commonly used to write and manage schedules nowadays, MS Project, SureTrak (now defunct) and Primavera P6 are some your humble servant has used over the years. Such software is extremely convenient and even useful, at least they were until Oracle got involved. That said, I learned to write and manage schedules by hand long before commercial computer software was available, and continue to make rough schedules for even complicated construction projects by hand, so fancy software is not necessary, especially for hobby woodworking projects.

The key points to pin down when writing a schedule are to first plan the the project with drawings and cutting lists, and to then identify the various task or jobs it will take to get the job done, and time it will take to complete each. Then figure out which of those tasks can only be done one after the other, and if they can be worked on consecutively, what the timing of the work progression will be.

For instance, when making a door, the parts must be cut to size before the joints can be cut, which in turn can only begun after the wood has been procured, thickness planed and jointed. On the other hand, you can procure the wood, hinges and begin thickness planing before, or even at the same time some of the joints are being cut.

For example, your breakdown might include the following tasks, some of which you may perform directly, or you may subcontract out to others, finishing for example.:

1. Produce drawings: 4hr
2. Procure materials: 16 hrs
3. Mark materials: 1hr
4. Saw materials to approximate length and width: 8hrs
5. Thickness plane and joint one edge of materials: 3hrs
6. Layout: 1hr
7. Cut joints: 8hr
8. Test-ft & Glue-up: 1hr
9. Cleanup: 0.5hr
10. Finish sand/plane: 2hr
11. Apply finish: 3hr
12. Install hardware: 1hr
13. Deliver/install final product: 6hr
14. Invoice Final Payment: 1hr

In the case of hobby woodworking, a detailed schedule may be psychologically onerous, taking all the joy out of the project. On the other hand, it can help prevent simple projects and small cash investments from morphing into complicated, expensive projects. But you never know until you give it a try.

Conclusion

Gentle Reader may be off-put by these steps and document-prep because they seem like actual work, contrary to the spirit of woodworking as an excuse to drink beer hidden away from the flaming eye of She Who Must Be Obeyed. But please keep two absolute truths in mind: First, regardless of how or when or to what degree of detail you perform the tasks I’ve described in this humble article, none of them are busywork. Indeed, documents have been found (on papyrus, no less) that evidence that Pharoh’s project manager for the pyramids did the same.

Second, whether you realize it or not, in one way or another you will do every single one of these jobs before the project is complete, you just won’t realize you’ve done them until after the fact. And if you proceed without a plan, you will have done them in a disorganized manner, out-of-sequence, on the fly, inefficiently, and perhaps with haphazard results. Such is human nature.

While the planning and documents these steps require may seem like they will make the job take longer, the truth is it will go quicker, with better results, and with better quality at less cost. I promise.

Until we meet again to gather herbs and posies in the troll woods, I have the honor to remain,

YMHOS

If you have questions or would like to learn more about our tools, please click the “Pricelist” link here or at the top of the page and use the “Contact Us” form located immediately below.

Please share your insights and comments with everyone in the form located further below labeled “Leave a Reply.” We aren’t evil Google, fascist facebook, or a Whitehouse staffer and so won’t sell, share, or profitably “misplace” your information. If I lie may all my sawteeth shatter.

Relevant Articles

• Beginning Tools - Part 1 Measuring, Marking and Layout

During his recent impromptu visit my brother took a whimsical double-barn-portrait selfie.  I was amused.  Some folks think we resemble each other (our wives say we even walk exactly the same) but we don’t see it. ;-)

hmm.......

This is the little side project. I am going to make a new holder for the new Vix bits I just bought and for the drivers too. 

done

Still haven't found the pics for the big frame on the right. I'm on the fence about the small certificate frame.  The router wobbled while routing the profile and it left a few dips, hollows, and one divot on the top rabbeted edge. They aren't noticeable looking at the frame from a foot away but they are visible up close and personal. I am letting it be for now and if it continues to gnaw at me I'll make another one later on down the line. 

I am rusty routing profiles with a corded router and I don't have a router table that would have eliminated the headaches with this frame. 

hmm......

The hex drive on these bits are a frog hair over a 1/4". A 7mm drill bit leaves enough wiggle room to get the bits in/out of the holes.

huh???

There are doubles of these two Vix bits. Why? I looked at the pic and write up in Amazon and it has the doubles there for all to see. I didn't pay attention to it. I guess I was blinded by the shiny colors. I can't think of any reason to have doubles of these two?

toast

The center punch ain't working. It would punch and then it wouldn't. I took it apart to check it out and found a burr on a headed pin. It was hanging up on a hole it was moving up/down in. I thought I had found cause of the hang up.

the culprit

There was a definite burr on the end and it was dragging in the shaft it rode in when I checked it. It filed off easily and it no longer dragged or hung up in the shaft. The small sliver cylinder above the board is what this pin slides up/down in. 

sigh

Major hiccup happened. I took the center punch that came with the Vix bit set apart but I couldn't put it back together. There isn't much to this and I think I'm reasonably smart but nada. I felt like I didn't have the opposable thumbs required for dealing with this. I took my Starrett center punch apart and I was able to get that one back together again. Both the punches have the same number of parts but the Starrett has much better machining and quality. But the Vix bit center punch won't go back together as it should.

2nd one

The first block I did had a hole for the center punch. I don't have high hopes that it will ever go back together again. I have it on my desk so I can play with it at night. I added the Vix bit from my first set to this one but that may be an extra too. 

my IQ is 129

Still can't figure this out. The top part will not screw down onto the bottom part. I feel like this part should be seated further down in the bottom part but it isn't. Did a part go south on me when I took it apart and missed it? This is putting my OCD into hyper drive and I'm having problems pushing down my urges to smash it flat with my 3lb sledge hammer.

I had to drop my truck off at the garage. My ABS and skid lights won't shut off. The garage mechanic said it was probably the speed sensor. I'm sure that will cost a bazillion dollars plus labor. I'll find out tomorrow hopefully.

accidental woodworker 

 I'm over the hump with the frames that morphed from 2 to 3. Got all the woodworking done on the last two today. All that is left to do with them is to apply shellac. I will easily get the two out to the Frame it Shop on wednesday. A lot of days between now and then with no new project tickling my fancy yet.

ta da

hmm.......

Three of the corners had no rocking but this last one has a teeny bit. It isn't much but I don't understand how 3 aren't rocking but this one is. Regardless I'm happy with how this came out.

wife's certificate frame

I got lucky and the outside routed profile didn't play peek-a-boo with  any of the dowel pins. Routed a small chamfer on the inside edge. 

back done

I didn't miter the back frame - used butt joints. The short sides hide the end grain ends on the long sides. The end grain from the short sides faces up and down and won't be visible if viewed from the sides.

final prep

Set the nails and filled them with putty. Used alcohol to remove the layout pencil lines. One more frame to prep and the shellac party commences.

hmm......

Not getting a big warm and fuzzy with the profile. I like the chamfer as they helps to draw the eye into the frame. This profile doesn't match the profile of the first certificate frame I made in june of 2023. It is close and this frame is about the same size as that one. (about a 3/8" longer in the long direction)

came today

I got this set mostly because of the centering punch on the far left. Pretty impressive set for $20. Not sure if I'll keep it in this plastic case or make a stand for it.

I got one coat on the two frames and a 4th coat on the first Declaration frame that is now repurposed for a family pic layout. The plan is to get at least one more coat on the frames after dinner.

I've been sleeping better lately. It is about the same now as it was before surgery. Still getting up for at least one toilet trot race but I able to fall back asleep afterwards. My middle night You Tube surfing has disappeared too. Feeling much better when I finally decide to roll out of the rack.

accidental woodworker

Continuing on from the last post… with the old doma gone I could proceed with structural work for the kitchen. But before diving into that lets take a step back and look at some photos from when we first moved into this house, now nearly two years ago. The house when it was first built… Read More »Kitchen Remodel – 1

The post Kitchen Remodel – 1 appeared first on Big Sand Woodworking.

after dinner last night

I went back to the shop and got the 3rd and final coat of shellac on the back. That dried quickly so I got one coat on the front. Went looking for the pics I plan to put in this frame and nada. Couldn't find them and my wife said she didn't know where I had hidden them neither. 

3rd (and final?) Declaration frame

Sawed the short leg miters on the right and the long legs on the left. Probably don't have to do it this way but so far it is working.

done

I think I have figured out the how of the inside and outside lengths. The 3rd frame is spot on with how I want to display the Declaration in the frame. The blue tape denotes the up face of the frame.

hmm.......

The Declaration has irregular edges all the way around. If I mat this they will be hidden and I will lose a part of the look of this reproduction. Instead I will ask Maria to mount it so that the edges will remain visible. I sized the inside of the frame (correctly) so that it is about a 1/2" wider R/L and T/B. There will be a small margin visible on all the edges.

had an oops

The frame, miter wise, went together good. However, this miter was misaligned on the faces by a strong 16th. That is too much to plane and feather out. Filled in the first dowel holes and I'll redrill them after these have cooked.

hmm........

Found the culprit causing the misalignment. While drilling the new dowel pin holes, I saw the jig move backwards a frog hair. The thumb screw was loose and it hadn't occurred to me to check it. Tightened it down with help from the allen wrench. I'll be adding checking that this remains tight in future uses of this jig.

sigh

Found two more corners that were misaligned, not as much as the first one, but more then 3-4 frog hairs. I glued dowels in the holes and redrilled them after waiting 30 minutes for them to cook.

done

All four corners closed up nicely on the dry fit. None of the faces of the miters are off flush more then a frog hair. Worth the calories and rework to get this done right.

clamped and cooking

Clamped it and took it out and laid it flat on the tablesaw. No rocking, Clamped it back up and set it aside to cook until the AM.

3 coats

I am really liking how this frame is popping with the shellac. I think this may turn into a Xmas present this year.

certificate frame

I hate to say it, boys and girls, but I might have to make another frame. The blue tape says this is the up face but I am not sure of that. The dowels I drilled I had offset them so that they were a wee bit below center. I did that to leave more meat above them for the router bit profile to come.

which option

The first option is to just rout a small chamfer on the inside and outside of the frame. Regardless of where the dowels are, I am fairly certain that I could rout the chamfer without any headaches.

The second option is to rout a 3/8x1/4 rabbet. Again I don't think the dowels will interfere with that. Even if they do it will be on the back side and not seen.

The final option is to rout the profiles on the outside and inside edges and use these thin strips to make a back frame. Of the 3 options I'm thinking of, I'm going with #3. I will rout the the outside profile first. Fingers crossed that the dowels don't get exposed. The inside edge will get a small chamfer that I'm not concerned about.

I'm now a month post op. I still have some fluid build up over my left side. I get winded more then I like but that is getting better each day. My stamina is improving a wee bit each day. I still can't lift anything heavier then a gallon of milk. If I do I feel a tugging in my left lung which tells me to put it down, whatever it is.  My heart seems to have settled out - still higher then what it was pre surgery but it is cycling and fluctuating like crazy. Still don't know what the long term holds for me. Like AA, I'll take it one day at a time.

accidental woodworker