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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2488125
Updated: 1 hour 35 min ago

it's better.......

4 hours 40 min ago
I woke up late this morning and I threw on some clothes and motored off to work. I didn't even stop to think about my back hurting. When I did think of it, there was nothing to feel. My back felt normal again. I did get one teeny twinge at lunch when I moved a bit suddenly but that was it. And I think that was mostly due to inertia working against me. Putting all that fat in motion, it takes a bit to slow it down. I took another day off in the shop for just in case.

sink J clip
These are are the only type of sink clips I was familiar with. There are different styles of these but they all work on the same principle.

one of the better J clips
The top of the screw has a plastic cap that keeps the screw from dimpling the sink. Especially so on the thinner gauge ones. I speak from experience on this.

the clip
This fits over a lip on the sink bottom.

the J part
The clip grips the sink. The screw bears down on the bottom of the sink and the J part is caught on the underside of the counter. This action pulls the sink down securely to the counter top. Usually two per side and maybe an extra one on the front and back, is all you need.

the nut
Once you have the sink secured the nut is run up to the bottom of the J.  This keeps the clip from loosening up. The only bad thing about these is the slot for a screwdriver at the bottom of the threaded rod that tends to break, like this one did.

plates for the plate rail
These are some of the dishes for the plate rail. These belonged to my wife's maternal grandmother and I am not involved in what plates get selected. She has also made a circuit of the local antique shops looking for other plates to display too.

this determines the plate rail groove
what I came up with
I have a soup bowl, a saucer and small plate and I measured each one from the box wall to the front of each dish.

I think I'll go with 3 grooves
Since I don't have a warm and fuzzy about what dish, plate or platter is going to be displayed, I think 3 grooves are prudent.

the before pic
The orange rust looking stuff is from the iron. I sanded this down lightly and put on the tannic acid. I am going to let this dry before I put on the iron. This is the way I did it back in December and I got good results that way.

new book came in
$98.86
I could have gotten a cheaper book but I selected this one. The Seller said it was clean, no pages missing, no notes or any writing on the pages, and the cover was intact with no damage. The lesser cost books all had some of what this one was missing.


second edition
I am no bibliophile in the true sense of the word and a first edition isn't that big of a deal to me. As long as the second edition has the exact same info that the first one has I'm ok with that.  Now that I have volume I, I can start reading it. I have been resisting the urge to read vol II until I got this one.

new tool catalog
I counted the catalogs I have now and with this one, I'm up to 14.  I now have a new obsession hobby to feed. Joshua from Hyperkitten tools sent me this one free. I ordered one from him but he had sold it and forget to remove it from the for sale list. He sent me this one to make up for that boo-boo.

I bought two more side bead planes from Josh too
I bought a 3/8" and 1/2". The 3/8" doesn't have the removable fence that is removed to make a deeper bead or to use the plane against another molding profile. Don't think it will be something I'll miss at this point.


4 beading planes
When I bought these, this is what they were called. The far left one is the newest and I got it from Caleb James. The boxing on the outside of the bead is parallel to the outside of the plane body.

my three side bead planes
These 3 are called side bead planes. The smallest at a 1/4" (left most one) has solid boxing and all 3 of the boxings are at a slight angle to the outside of the plane. Other than this, the planes are basically the same. The beading planes made a bead on the outside edge of the stock. The side bead planes put the bead slightly inboard of the edge. At least the 1/4" one does that and I'll have to wait to find out if the 3/8 and 1/2 inch ones do too.

debating on getting the 5/16" size
I found a tool site that has a London made 5/16" side bead plane. It has the removable fences and all the pics of it look pretty good. The price includes S/H but I'm on the fence with this one. I can't see how a 1/16" will make that much of a difference. I'll sharpen these two irons and road test them  tomorrow.

my wife bought this for me
My father dropped my sister and I off at this orphanage when I was two in 1956 (so I have been told). We stayed there for almost 4 years but I have very few memories of the place. The Nun that helped former residents with info about their stays here pasted on so I have no way of finding out when I got there, how long I stayed, or when I left. I found this in with my tool catalogs and I do remember the habit the nuns all wore.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a coutelier?
answer - a knife maker

still hurting....

Wed, 04/26/2017 - 1:33am
The pain in my back has lessened some and my flanks don't hurt anymore. Both sides migrated the pain to the right side of my spine and it comes and goes. It is annoying having it come and go but I guess it is better than having it constantly throbbing away at me. Maybe tomorrow I'll be pain free.

0300
These 3 pieces are coming along ok. They aren't turning black as quickly as I would like, but they are getting there.

these two suck
The two pine pieces are better looking than these two ash ones. The ash has tannin in it and I expected it to be as black as the edge of space now. I put another coat of tannic acid and iron before I went to work.

This is the 4th application going on these and so far only the walnut is showing promise for matching the cell phone holder color.

1600 the same day
 These 3 look good compared to the cell phone holder on the right. Forgot to snap a before pic before I put the tannic acid on them.

the ash piece is already better than the last attempt on the right side
They look good because they are wet from the tannic acid just being applied to it.

I don't know about this one
I am starting to think that maybe there is some kind of a finish on this stopping the tannic acid and iron solution to fully develop. The first clue is that circle that is still clear.

out of sequence pic
before I put on the tannic acid, I lightly sanded all the pieces with 600 grit sandpaper.

about 6 minutes after the iron went on
I put on the tannic acid and iron and they are drying up. I can see a orange rust color on the pieces that I remember from the xmas ebonizing adventure. I am feeling better about this and 4 out of 5 isn't too bad to take.


53 inches long
This took me over 20 minutes to do. I couldn't take a full swing with the plane without feeling a twinge in the back. Instead I held the plane and leaned to my left to plane a short length. Repeated this in baby steps down the length until I was done.

I've been trying to find out what the difference is between a side bead and a 'regular' beading plane. They both make the same profile and the only thing I can see is the side bead plane has the bead at a slight angle. The regular beading plane has the bead straight up and down. There must be a reason why the side bead is tilted and why it has the name side bead.

stopped here
I was going to make the corbels but realized that would be a mistake. I haven't rounded over the edge and that needs to be done first. This was a good place to shut the lights out too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a curricle?
answer - a small open carriage pulled by two horses side by side

ouch, it still hurts.......

Tue, 04/25/2017 - 12:05am
My back has hurt before but it has rarely lasted more than one day. And it never hurt so bad that I wanted to rip someones face off. I had dull ache in my lower back, on both flanks, all day on sunday. My hip hurt more than my back did and I put the heating pad on my hip when I went to bed.  I didn't sleep well last night and it seemed I was waking up every hour on the hour. When I finally got up the hip felt good and pain free. The back was iffy at this point. I would say it was sore here.

It was a different story by the time I got home from work. I had dull, throbbing ache in my lower back that no matter what I did, it wouldn't go away. It's not as bad as it was on sunday, but still bad enough to be annoying. This is also the first time my back has hurt going into a second day. I'll putting the heating pad on it tonight.

So because of that and not wanting to aggravate it anymore, I skipped woodworking in the shop tonight. I still went there but I didn't use any tools or make shavings. I picked up on the ebonizing that I stopped a week or so ago. Can't hurt the back stirring powder in water or slathering liquids on a few pieces of scrap wood.

lost about 3/4" of inch
A fair bit of the iron solution has evaporated which surprised me. The lid was closed on it closely and there is one tiny hole in it. Wasn't expecting this much to be gone. More the enough left to see if I can ebonize with it.

fresh tannic acid
I used hot water this time to mix up the tannic acid. The last batch I made I used cold water and the tannic acid clumped up and took forever to dissolve. It dissolved faster and better in the hot water without almost no clumping at all.

first batter is NZ pine from Lowes
The pic I took of the test subjects was way too blurry to even know it was a pic of wood. I am using the NZ pine and white pine first. A scrap of walnut and some ash round out the herd.

tannic acid and iron applied to NZ pine
walnut
I dipped it first in the tannic acid and now it is getting dipped in the iron.

walnut turned black
white pine dipped in tannic acid first
the white pine after being dipped in the iron
The white pine didn't turn as dark as the NZ pine did.

the ash test piece
This is the base I use for my lamp for sharpening saws. I slathered on some tannic acid on the right end side.

iron didn't turn it as black as I had hoped it would
my test piece from the last outing
This was in plain sight on the other of the box to the left of it and I didn't see it. This has 5(?) cycles of tannic acid and iron applied to it. Now I can compare that to what it will be like when the iron solution has had a longer time to cook.

this is not very encouraging
This looks like the other end did after the first round there too.

about ten minutes later
The walnut is looking good after one application and it is very close to the black on the cell phone holder.

both pines are getting darker
this is disappointing
the sink clip from hell
This is one of the mangled head ones. Can you tell what type this is Bob?

strange way of clipping on the sink bottom
The sink has a vertical tab/flange that is 90° to the sink bottom. On this flange are several rectangular slots that this clip fits into. There is a tab on the middle finger on this clip that snaps into the rectangular slot. The two prong thing on the left bites into the underside of the counter and the screw is tightened down pulling the sink down and seating it on the top surface of the counter. The J clips I'm more familiar with work on the same principle.

side view
The clip part on the right can be angled outward so you can catch the underneath of the counter if there is a gap to make up. There is a barrel of plastic that the screw threads in and out of and it isn't that sturdy. I tightened down two of these and I pulled the plastic piece right out of the clip. The two circular fingers that hold it in place couldn't hold up to the force from the screw tightening down. I had to take the sink out twice to pull clips off and put new ones in. I never had any of these problems with the J sink clips.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a fugio cent?
answer - the first official one cent coin minted by the United States in 1787

spring has arrived......

Mon, 04/24/2017 - 12:07am
Last week we had a couple of days that were in the 80 degree range with one day hitting 87. I thought spring had finally come but the weather took a U-turn and went cooler. The temps have been seasonal but a bit lower than the norm. However, over the past couple of days I've seen 5 robins and the trees went poof with an explosive burst of buds, leaves, and flowers. My furnace is still coming on intermittently and I had to put a blanket on the bed last night because I felt cold. But spring I think is finally here.

How do I know this? Birds are singing at oh dark thirty when I leave for work. All the other signs aside, I've always taken birds singing before dawn as the true sign of spring. Which brings up the question, just what are the birds singing and chirping about so damn early in the morning? Is this the time that they are looking for a date?

sink job from hell
 It took a couple of hours to get this stage of the install. I am doing a leak test on the bowls and the basket strainers. The sink clips I've used in the past are called J clips and the clips on the this sink were designed in hell. I am glad I bought 3 bags because I stripped the head on the first four of six I tried to tighten. I did two with a powered drill and switched to hand mood and still stripped two.

I don't know how plumbers can do this type of work day after day. My hip stopped singing arias a few hours ago and has been steadily screaming at me. This is the last time I will ever lay on my back and twist and contort my fat body to do something like this. Installing those sink clips was adventure I will not soon forget.

The leak test pasted with flying colors. The bowls held the water for over an hour and there were no leaks underneath.

no leaks here neither
I got lucky and I was able to reuse most of the old piping from the last sink. I bought a new p trap and replaced all of the gaskets (I had a kit of them from my apartment maintenance days). The only pipe I had to trim was the horizontal run from the p trap to the 90 going into the waste pipe on the right.

I'm not sure that I'm onboard with the plastic piping. According to the plumbing who did this, copper is old school and everything is done with plastic now. I remember plastic piping from a long time ago that imparted an unpleasant taste to the water.

I didn't escape free and clear
The sprayer is leaking by the push in handle to turn it on. It is coming out in a fine mist on the left side of it. Several hours after I got sink in I made a road trip to get a replacement sprayer that didn't fit. This is a Delta faucet set and it appears that non Delta sprayers are a no-no. I got the replacement sprayer from Tru Value and I'll have to make a special road trip to Lowes to see if they have replacement Delta sprayers.

it recovered
I pruned this last fall and again a few weeks ago. This is about 3 times the amount of leaves and lilac buds that I had last year. I have another lilac bush behind this against the fence that isn't doing so good. 3 of the five main branches are dead. The two that are alive have very few buds and leaves. I don't think it is going to make another year.

the 4x4 plywood I bought saturday
This side looks like birch to me. This is the reason why I grabbed it and I didn't see the other side until I got to the checkout.

5 plies ?
it's underlayment
instructions
The inside rabbet measurement, top to bottom, on the bookcase is 47 1/4 inches. I'll do the width on the tablesaw and I'll try to remove the 3/4" waste with a sheetrock knife.

my only woodworking today
I planed the bead on one of two pieces and stopped here.

I doodled with my beading planes etc
I briefly entertained not using the extra beaded molding  piece and instead planing it on the apron bottom. I liked the 3/8 bead the best. I planed all 3 of the astragals I have but none of them looked right. The rabbet on them was too wide. I kept the side beading molding because that is what my wife drew and it is what she wants.

last piece to be molded
I will do this tomorrow if I feel up to it. I will do the plate rail groove too. I am thinking of putting two of them in because I saw that on a colonial hutch in one of my books. Depending upon the  size the object to put in the groove, determines how far from the wall the bottom of it is. There aren't any measurements for them but I can guess-ta-mate them from the pic.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What holds the Washington Monument together?
answer - no mortar or cement, just the weight of the stones - goes from 15 feet thick at the base to 7 inches thick at the top

plate roughed out.....

Sun, 04/23/2017 - 3:39am
I stopped at Lowes after OT this morning to get sink clips and a 4x4 piece of 1/4" birch plywood for the bookcase. I went 0 for 2 on them. I asked two Lowes workers where the sink clips were and both said it wasn't their department and walked away.  This isn't the Lowes I usually go to and it is laid out differently from one I do frequent. So after wandering around hunting on my own and not finding anything, I left.

Before I left I made a circuit through the hardwood aisle. I had done some figuring and I could make my stand up desk for work out of 3 1x12x3' boards of NZ pine. I like this wood because it is hard and I can write on it without also making indents in the wood. 3 boards of this would have cost me over $60 so I looked at poplar. A 1x12x6' poplar board was going for close to $40. I'll drive to New Hampshire first and buy wood there before I pony up any dollars at Lowes. Not a good start to my day after leaving work.

The good news is I made an extra road trip to the Lowes I normally  go to. Asked a kid in the kitchen department where the sink clips where. Without hesitating, he told me exactly where they were (he couldn't have been more than 19-20 years old). I bought 3 bags because I either lost the one that came with the sink or none were in the box. I also got a 4x4 piece of 1/4" birch plywood but it was different. The front was birch, the middle had a couple of plies, but the back was covered with paper

photographic proof
Sometimes things that befuddle you just fall into place one day, unexpectedly.  It finally happened with me with Mr Spokeshave.  I have watched Paul Sellers use a spokeshave on end grain without any problems and make nice shavings. Me, I got nothing but tear out, chattering, gouges, leading me to using something else besides a spokeshave.

Today I bandsawed the radius on the two corners and cleaned them up with the spokeshave like I had been doing it all my life. I didn't get one continuous shaving from one side to the other but there was no tearing out or chattering. My shavings were smooth and easy coming though. This is the spokeshave iron that I sharpened correctly this time but making sure I raised a burr first.

missing tool
One good thing about tool racks, is you always know when a tool is MIA.

found it on the laundry table
most of the parts are rough sawn
Working on the corbel for the clock shelf.  I am going with a single one here vice two.

need a cutout for the apron

vertical cut is too wide
I am making this cut wider to allow for scribing the corbel to the wall.

this edge will be scribed to the wall
vertical cut was done on the bandsaw and the horizontal one by hand
back side of the horizontal saw cut
The front was done pretty much on the line and this I will flush up with a chisel.

good fitting joint
changed lanes on the scribing
I nixed scribing this to the wall. I planed the part underneath the apron until the cutout sat flush on it. There isn't any real need to go this nutso on this and make extra work for myself.

continued success with the spokeshave
I was able to clean up and smooth the entire curve on this corbel with the spokeshave. I think I'm finally over the learning curve hump with this.

roughing in the parts
The area below the plate rail will be wallpapered and above it is getting paint. The plate rails will butt into the clock shelf and I'll reinforce that joint with a biscuit. The bottom aprons butt together underneath the center of the clock shelf.

the corbel will hide the butt joint
The fit of this is pretty good dry. It lays up tight to the wall and it looks like I didn't need to scribe it afterall.

the kitchen clock
I made this clock in 1995 and it still has the original quartz movement. The shelf is 1 inch bigger than the clock in both directions.

big hollow on this side
I am not going to do anything with this. If I scribe this to fit the wall I would have to cut another plate rail wider to allow for that. The gap is almost a 1/4" wide and I can cheat on this a little by planing a little off the two opposite ends. I don't want to make and fit each individual corbel on this side.

I can do beads with this too
I made two sized beads with this plane to get beads and a larger rabbets too.

my beading irons
This is a record plane but the 3rd from the left is a Stanley iron I think. I tried the Stanley one (after I sharpened it) and the record 3/16" one.

the record bead
Had a bit of trouble plowing this. It was choppy and took a bit more oomph than I thought it should have. I got a bead and a large rabbet nonetheless.

the rabbet makers
The iron made a groove on either side of the hump. I removed most of the outside groove wall with the chisel and planed it flush with the bullnose plane.

the record 3/16" bead
the Stanley bead
I don't know the size of this as it is none marked on the iron. I'm guessing it is 1/4". I like this size better than the smaller 3/16".

the plane is history
This is a small piece of stock and it bowed in the dogs. The far end of the stick didn't get as large of a rabbet as the rest of it. The two pieces of stock that I want to bead are already sawn out and I can't use this plane on them. The fence on the plane rides on the bench keeping the iron from planing the wood. I don't have any way to hold the stock and plane the bead so this is toast.

3/16" beading plane
I like this but the bead is too small and there is no rabbet. I could saw a bit off the thickness but I really want a rabbet/shoulder on this molding.

1/4" side bead plane
I looked over the plane and I found the size on the heel. This is the one I'll use on the plate rail. I don't think I'll have any holding problems trying to plane this bead on the small pieces of stock I have.

still haven't done it
I can't seem to get over the fact that I have to use plastic hands on this clock. I'll have to suck it up  because my wife has asked me twice about it's status.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many stone blocks are in the Washington Monument?
answer - 36,491

working the plate rail.......

Sat, 04/22/2017 - 12:41am
Worked on the plate rail tonight but not because I forgot about the bookcase. I had been thinking about it today on when to drill for the shelf pin sleeves. Do it now and risk not getting the bookcase square or do it after the bookcase is glued? I can see plusses and minuses for both and I got time to pick one. Tonight was for working on finalizing the plate rail details.

got the corbels done
The first two from the left are slightly different. The first one has a flat where it meets the bottom molding and the second one doesn't. The one with the flat was done to fit the space between the top rail and the bottom molding.  Overall I'm satisfied with the sizes of the individual parts except for the bottom molding. That one is too thick and I think something a 1/2" thick would look better.

too thick and I don't like the profile
I planed a cove on this and it did nothing for me. I then put a small round over on the on the top of it to soften it and I still didn't like it.

this looks much better to me
This is a 1/2" thick piece of pine that I planed a bead on the edge. It's too wide but I do like how it looks for the bottom molding.

the scale of the new molding is a better fit here
I wish this rabbet was larger
Being larger would make the shadow line of this stand out. It wouldn't be obscured once it gets painted.

the plane I used to make the bead
I can take the two fences off of the plane and that would allow me to make a deeper bead but I am not sure if it would make the rabbet wider. I like the bead and that stays and I may have to just accept the size of the rabbet.

my smallest hollow
I think I got this nomenclature correct. A hollow makes a round profile and the round makes a circular hollow. I tried to round over the top of the bead to remove the square edge but the results sucked. The hollow may have worked if it was smaller but this one didn't make a round over but instead made a chamfer. I ended up doing it with a block plane.

I tried
I used a bullnose plane to try to increase the rabbet and all I did was to chew it up. It is not easy trying to start the plane on such a small rabbet.

did kind of ok on the far end
test run for the plate groove
My smallest hollow is a #5 which I think is too big but I'm going to try it anyways. I nailed the wood strip to guide the hollow so I'll have a straight groove.

big number 5
nail holes won't be a problem
The plate rail is going to be painted so once the holes are filled, they won't be seen once the paint goes on.


groove is way too big
from Bob Demers
I will need a #1 hollow to make my plate groove. I've read that the small H&R mouths are prone to chipping and breaking out. I forgot I had this attached to one of the 6 cabinet tool doors.

haven't used any of these for quite a long time
1/4" veining router bit
I bought this many, many lunar eclipses ago to do plate rail grooves.  I don't think that I used it more than 3 or 4 times. I may have to use it for the 5th time to do these plate rails.

I quit here because I had to go to the bank. I forgot my PIN for my ATM and I got locked out after 3 invalid tries so I need the bank to reset it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The Panama Canal has 12 locks. The Suez Canal is twice as long and it has how many locks?
answer - none

prototyping two.......

Fri, 04/21/2017 - 12:18am
I prototyped two projects tonight and I didn't finish either of them. I got an idea I have to try for one and the other is making the parts into the whole. One prototype is for drilling shelf pin sleeves and that is the one I need to try an idea out on. The other one is my wife's honey-do plate rail and I have to make the parts fit together. It wasn't a wasted night and I'm think I'm headed in the right direction on both of them.

using an off cut
I changed the offset at the front and back. Using 2" put them too close together so I moved the rear to 1 1/2" in from the rabbet and the front is 1 3/4" in from the edge. This spread them out more and I think it will make the shelf more stable and give better support for them.

the first row is easy to do
the throat isn't deep enough for the second row
In order to do the opposite row I would have to flip the board 180 and I lose the registration I had on the first row. I was hoping that I could have drilled one row, put spacer between the fence and the shelf, and drilled the opposite side. This is where plan B was formulated.

the problem
Since I don't see any other way around this I am going to have to drill the two starter holes. Getting these two holes dead nuts on the same square line is imperative.

if I drill one hole off in either direction
all the resultant holes will be off too
That means the two holes, side to side, won't be square and shelf will rock. I think everyone knows how I feel about rocking.

the idea
Make a jig with the two outside bottom holes drilled. Place it on the shelf bottom and drill those two holes. Getting the these two holes square on the jig won't be problem. Getting the jig and those two holes square on the shelf sides will have to be done carefully. Because there is a right and left side and I have to account for that.

my spacer
The dowel will be the same size as the drill bit. The first hole will be drilled by placing the dowel in one of the two starter holes. But before I do that I have to set the distance between the spacer dowel and the drill bit. I will do that by placing a piece of wood 2" wide between the drill bit and the spacer dowel. I'll clamp the spacer fence to the drill press table and then drill a lot of holes.



what I should get
The dowel will be in the starter hole and the first drill press made hole should be 2" from that. All the other holes will be 2" from each other too.

doing the opposite side
I will use the same 2" wide piece of wood to set the dowel and drill bit distance and clamp the fence. Drill the opposite side holes and they should be square to the first set. I don't see any potential hiccups with this other than a bit of repetition. The drill press will give me a consistent depth and a hole square to the face of the side.

switched to the plate rail
I'm using the old kitchen cabinet doors to make the prototype for the plate rail. I lost the drawing my wife made but I got the major parts all here. I didn't do the mitered returns on the end and I'll do that after get the corbels figured out. I made them too large and I'll have to make it smaller. I'm doing one first and I'll use that as the pattern for the others.

a circle isn't going to work
If I try to make a quarter circle, it will match up with the edge of the plate rail but be off on the apron. I will have to draw something freehand here.

used a french curve to draw the arc
The fit is much better here but I will be doing these again.

the wife wants this edge to be rounded over
the clock shelf
I think the clock shelf will need a couple of large corbels or maybe just one in the middle. I rounded the two outside corners on it to be more in tune with the other round parts of plate rail.

top view
I will do the plate rail groove with a hollow and one of the smaller ones I have will work good here. The groove for the plates doesn't have to be much bigger than a 1/4".

I can make this in 5 pieces. A  R and L plate rail with the clock shelf in the middle. A two piece apron that I can butt together by placing it centered under the clock shelf. A corbel placed over it will hide that joint. This is starting to look to be doable.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a portmanteau?
answer - a large suitcase usually made of leather and opening into two equal parts

a honey do.....

Thu, 04/20/2017 - 1:10am
The title says it all. After staring at mt screen for minutes, and giving it my best goofy looks, I still had no title. (this title came the next morning when I was proofing this post)My wife has told me my blog titles are as catchy as 2 week old news. I think they reflect what the blog post is about. They may or may not draw someone in to read the keyboard diarrhea I put out. I have several blogs I read daily, on whenever the author posts, and the title doesn't bring in or turn me away. I'll read whatever is written.


Tonight is wednesday and I did a repeat of my garbage day post from last wednesday. I managed to cut up a few more pieces of the old counter top and get it in the shitcan. I couldn't get much because there was a lot of garbage already in there. I should be able to get most it in there for next week if I do it this weekend.

honey do project
My wife wants a plate rail to match the spice rack and the paper towel. This is want I have to go on. Dimensions are up to me until she gets to see them which I'm betting will be all wrong. I still don't know how long shes wants nor the height. The middle is supposed to get a bump up for the kitchen clock. From the drawing I think this means she wants a thin width plate rail. My plan is to make a small section of it out of plywood and get the ok before I make the whole thing.

the drawer and pencil tray have gone south
I decided to not put anything underneath the bookshelf.

my bookshelf
I thought about it last night and I kept looking at my bookshelf and thinking how I wish I had more room underneath it.  I keep a lot of crap there and I really would like to put the desk calendar under it. Being an ex-sailor, I look at this as prime undeveloped real estate. I hope my daughter sees it the same way.

shelf hardware
Two different sizes for different types of wood.

left is for hardwoods and the right for softwoods
I have never liked to use these pins without a sleeve and especially so in soft woods like pine. The sleeves go a long way in keeping the pins from deforming the holes. I am going to use the hardwood pins in the plywood bookcase.

two drill bits
One bit is for the pins and the other is for the sleeve. The sleeve bit is larger than the pin bit.

13" up from the bottom
I like to put the tall books at the bottom. The bottom shelf will have a finished height of 12 1/4" to the first pin.

top shelf

My wife has a lot of books that are 7" to 6" high. This shouldn't waste too much space at the top. I went with a 2" for the pins to save on them. This spacing will take 64 sleeves and 12 pins for 3 shelves.

I have been thinking about making a shelf pin drilling jig for the drill press. I think I got the spacer part figured out so it'll be repeatable but the distance from the edges is going to take some overtime with the brain power. I want to come in 2" from the front and the rear so I have a lot of holes to line up when I flip the sides to the opposite holes.

the box is done
I found a clean rag and buffed this out. It felt a little greasy before I did that and afterwards it felt smooth to the touch all over and not greasy.

left rear quarter glamour shot
the back
I like how the walnut plugs pop out. I wonder if Manny will look at this and think it is part of the box or what their true purpose is.

right side
interior shot
I picked a piece of birch plywood that had some figure and a knot in it.

back of the lid
I thinned the lid down but it still ended up about a 16th proud. I planed a small chamfer to ease the end of the lid into the back. This was it for my shop time tonight I had to go and deliver the box to Manny.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What four states voted against the 16th amendment (the income tax amendment)?
answer - Connecticut, Rhode Island, Utah, and Florida

drawer ideas......

Wed, 04/19/2017 - 12:24am
I've been tossing around ideas for the drawer on the walnut bookshelf and I haven't come up with anything I like. I read a blog post this morning about a escritoire where 20 drawers were made tapered. The fronts were the highs and the backs were 3/16" lower. The author said it was deliberate but he didn't know the reason why. I need and want a tapered drawer so the bottom of it will be level. The need is identified, the how is the next question that needs to be answered.

second  of wax
I did this first thing to get it done but mostly so I wouldn't forget to do it.

one of four cherry bases I have
The ash bases were marked off this cherry one. The ash is about a 1/32 less in height than the cherry but the angles are the same.

I was right
I thought this through correctly because by turning the cherry bases upside down, the bottom of it is parallel to the workbench top. This is what the sides of the drawer will be made like.

made a test drawer side in pine
I don't think making a pair of these will be a problem. I made the bases the same and making the sides should be just as easy.

drawer front
This is a piece of maple and with some walnut stain, it should be difficult to pick it out from the real stuff.

another test pattern in 1/4" plywood
I don't want the sides of the drawer to extend past the bottom of the cutout on the bases.

height done, length is next
if I go to the back slats
I gain 2 more inches of depth this way. It would make the interior space more useful being larger for stowing note pads etc.

it doesn't look good extended past the back of the vertical end
this is the right length
The front to back of the drawer, including the fronts and backs, should fall within the end.

too wide
The drawer as is, is sized to fit inbetween the two inside edges of the bases. I think there should be a bit of wiggle room and a gap here.

made it about a 1/2" on each side
I am not liking this look at all. I cut the length down again to 12" and centered it. I didn't like that look neither. I have something nagging at me telling me the width needs to be thinned.

went in the opposite direction
Nixed the drawer and now I'm putting in a pencil tray. This I can veneer with something from the pizza box of veneer I have in the boneyard.

cut to length and squared the ends
wish I had a larger round
Jim Bode has has a lot of sets of H&Rs for sale but I don't won't a full 18 plane set. I don't see single pairs of H&Rs for sale that often and when I do they are in a size I have already or don't want. A #6 is the biggest round I have and I'll use it make my pencil tray.

using a gouge too
Between the two of these, I was able to hog away a lot of wood quickly.

slipped
I got the 'aw' out but not the shit before the plane exited the edge at an angle heading south.

needs to be a wee bit deeper
sanding out some of the ridges
pretty smooth to the touch but not perfect - planed the mistake off
needs to be deeper but the arc looks pretty good

the other end is a pretty close match
I'm satisfied with this
The mystery of making things like this has evaporated. This needs to be deeper to hold more pens and pencils and I should use a thicker piece of wood. I need to spend a little more time on this but there aren't any deadlines on it.

maybe I should make this tapered too?
I still have to figure out a drawer guide system for it too. The first batter is deciding on a design and then I'll tackle a drawer guide. This is it for tonight because Mickey's big hand is on 12 and the little one is on five. Time to shut out the lights.

bought a new catalog
 This is the biggest catalog I have ever seen. Did Stanley put out catalogs in book form this large?

colored page

the Stanley 55 in color
I will have to compare this catalog to the other two Stanley catalogs I have.

new book and a problem
I got this book and the catalog from Time Tested Tools. For whatever reason I missed that this was Volume II. My problem is I now have to get Volume I. I did a quick look see at lunchtime and Amazon has them used for about $80. I'll be getting that next payday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Kathrine Switzer?
answer - she was the first officially numbered female runner (261) to run in the Boston Marathon in 1967

bookcase started......

Tue, 04/18/2017 - 12:21am
It felt strange tonight working on the bookcase and using power tools. I have used power tools over the past 5 years but it was mostly to do a quick cut or two and finish up with hand tools. I looked at the bookcase tonight thinking I could make all the rabbets and dadoes by hand but I stuck with the tablesaw. I really want to whack this out as quick as I can. Besides, the glue and cross grain layering of the plywood would cause havoc with my hand saws and planes.

ready for my wax finish
I planed all the sides and lightly sanded them with the new sanding block I just bought.

branded and signed
I put in a few glue blocks to stiffen the bottom. I don't know what will be put in this but it should handle anything short of a small block chevy engine.

might have a use for this (kitchen sink cut out)
Richard Maguire has a special purpose piece of plywood he uses for sharpening with his waterstones. It keeps the mess they generate on the plywood and off the workbench. Formica is waterproof and I just have to add sides to make a shallow box. If water gets to the substrate it will make it swell - it's 1" thick chip board. Something else to add to the A list.

tip from Steve
I have used mineral spirits to find errant glue splooges before but not to check for finishing hiccups.  Steve said this will give a go/no go on those.

if they darken I'm good to go
they got dark
I can still see the 'grain' of them but they got dark with the alcohol. As the alcohol evaporated, they turned whitish again.

the ends were the worse looking
Both ends turned dark when I applied the alcohol. Knowing this makes me feel better about putting the finish on this.

I am trying to figure out how to make a tapered drawer. If I put a drawer up against the bottom of the shelf it would be tilted backwards. Everything in it would slide to the back of the drawer. If I make the sides angled so that it is parallel to the underneath of the shelf, the drawer bottom will be parallel to the flat surface the bookshelf rests on. This is going to be another spatial exercise for me.

I think I have a handle on this one but we'll have to wait and see
bookcase started
I need four dadoes and four rabbets for the carcass. I thought of using an electron munching router but I really dislike using them now. They are incredibly noisy and the spew wood debris and dust all over the place. The tablesaw is not much quieter but it doesn't throw wood dust and chips all over the shop.

quick work to make these
Now I can do some hand work and clean up the rabbet for the back panel first.

ridges need to go
I nibbled the dado waste away because there were only four of them. And I didn't have enough overhead room to run the piece vertically through the saw.  I made the rabbet for the back panel with two saw cuts.

cleaned up with the record 073
back panel is too small
The height is ok but the width is 6" too short. I changed my mind on the width of the bookcase and I changed it to 30" vice the original 24". At the rate my wife is buying books, I am betting this bookcase will be filled before summer is over.

dry fit looks good
I was surprised that my aluminum clamps reached on the 4 foot length. I had to stop here with the bookcase because I need the back panel to square it up.

man in brown came
I changed making my stand up desk from plywood to solid wood. I shortened the depth of it from 18" to 14" too. That made my first set of drawer glides too long so I bought a shorter set.

bought some #6 brass RH screws
first coat on
I am starting to warm up to the simplicity and ease of application of this linseed oil and wax finish. The fact that it looks good too isn't hurting the home team neither. I don't anticipate any problems with getting this done for wednesday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the largest living fish?
answer - the whale shark, it can reach 50 feet in length and weigh 20 tons

kitchen sink almost done.......

Mon, 04/17/2017 - 12:27am
I live in Rhode Island which is a predominately catholic state. At one time, nothing was open on Easter and I mean nothing. Not even gas stations or convenience stores. Today, the reverse has happened. Grocery stores are open and restaurants are offering up Easter sunday ham dinners and you can buy a new suit too if you so desire. Times are changing. Religion doesn't have the sway it did when I was kid.

I took a break from the shop and my wife and I went out for an Easter lunch. I had the traditional ham dinner and my wife opted for turkey. We went to Gregg's and the place was packed. It seems that a lot of families were letting Gregg's do the cooking and the cleaning up today. I like Gregg's because they serve real mashed potatoes and not the instant crap that tastes wet cardboard.

late start today
The arm is solidly attached now but I can't fold it. I hope that I don't forget this and try to do before my new eye peepers come in.

epoxy droplet
After wearing the glasses all day, this will be history. I can see it in my peripheral vision and it is annoying.

not as annoying as this is
I got a dab of epoxy on the lens and it was coming off with alcohol but not as fast as I wanted it to. Brilliant idea formulated in the brain bucket - scrape what is left with a brand new single edge razor blade. Got rid of the epoxy but I left behind a couple of scratches. The only good thing is that it is slightly up and to the left from the center of my vision. Annoying but I'll have to deal with it for a few weeks.

ready to unclamp
 I didn't know what to expect on this because the top and bottom weren't parallel when I clamped it.

out of the clamps
It's a rocking on the bench and it was a rocking on the tablesaw. I definitely did something clamping this up.

left turn into my grain problem
These whitish streaks are tiny fissures but they are smooth to the touch. I couldn't scrape these out and sanding just made them pop out even more.

ugly looking
 Again, this is smooth to the touch but I can't scrape it away. Scraping did take some of it but not all.

back to my rocking problem
It's twisted which doesn't surprise me considering how it was clamped. I was expecting something but not this.

this corner and the back diagonal one are high
I planed a little off the two high corners and checked my progress by setting it on the tablesaw.

making sure I stay square
done
No rocking no matter which corner I tried. There isn't any space under any of the four bearing points neither.

the unrockers
I was a bit discouraged when I saw that the bases were twisted. I envisioned this turning real ugly rather quickly. It didn't and it is rock free now (I hate rocking more than anything else). I used the big plane to remove the bulk of the waste and the low angle plane to keep square and to finesse it. Getting rid of rocking was way easier than I thought it would be.

sawed off the left side by eye
I wanted the angle to be steeper than 45 so I just sawed what looked good to my eye.

sawing the right side
This one came out too shallow and I corrected it with the low angle block plane. At the same time I cleaned and smoothed the saw cut.

just enough clearance to use the block plane to clean it up
more of the mystery whitish spots
The shelf isn't from the same stock as the ends but it has the same fissure grain hiccups. I know walnut is a porous wood so maybe these spots would disappear if I used a grain filler (which I don't have).

the after scraping pic
A lot of it is still there. Scraping is a bust here so I sanded it with 220 and I'm calling this done. All that is left is to make the drawer and apply the finish.

thinning the lid for the box
 With the exception of the plywood bottom, this box is made entirely with the same wood (NZ radiata pine).

doing something different
On my past lids I was getting blowout when I planed the angle on the front end. I did an experiment where I did the angle first, and then the rabbets and the astragals. Doing it in that sequence yielded no blowouts. I am repeating that but on a for real lid. I started by making the width between the grooves a 16th wider than the opening.

rough sawn length
I squared the front edge and sawed the length an 1/8" over. The rough sawn edge will be the back and I will plane that to fit after the lid is fitted to the opening.

planed the front chamfer
I used the #8 because I still haven't sharpened the iron in the 51.

rabbets are next
the astragals comes after the lid is fitted
rabbets done , fitting for the width
I got the rabbets done to where the front edge fits in the groove. I can't do any more fitting of them until I get the width of the lid. Planing this thin edge with this plane helps to keep it square.

very shallow rabbet
This small rabbet is to account for the thin web I left when I plowed the groove.

width almost there
Now that I got the lid started into the grooves I switched back to fine turning the rabbets.
speed bump
I got lucky with this piece breaking off. I found it inside the box.

glued it back on and took a break
The kitchen sink I got was too big for the cabinet opening. With these less than stellar cabinets, I wasn't taking any chances with trying to make it fit. I called Lowes but I didn't get an answer so I assumed they were closed because of Easter. My wife called and got through so I went to Lowes to return that sink and buy a smaller one.

a bit nerve wracking to do
This counter cost close to 7 large ones and I was in no hurry to cut this out. I triple double checked myself 14 times and then I did it 3 more times. The sink isn't centered on the cabinet but it is centered on the window (my wife saw that). I didn't look at either one that much and concentrated on getting the hole within the interior of the sink base walls.

Next batter here is getting the faucet set installed (can't find it) and some new piping for the drain. I bought two kitchen strainers because nowadays you only get a sink and nothing else.

lid done
This lid fitting was a chore this time. I took my time with it and tried to look at both the rabbets and the width before deciding what to plane. I found a problem with the groove depth. I checked it with my 4" square and both grooves had a taper. I took the iron I used to plow the groove and used like a scraper to get the depth consistent end to end.

The astragals were planed after I got the lid sliding in and out easily. The thumb catch still needs to be done.

cut up some walnut scrap for plugs

the hard plugs to do
These plugs were like tiny half dovetails. I sawed out a big shape like this and trimmed it to fit with a chisel.

the easy ones
These plugs are wedge shaped to fit the slope of the tails but they are rectangular and much easier to trim and fit.

trimming the plugs flush
the box is this close to getting the finish
Planing the sides and cleaning them up is all that is holding up the finish. I should be done with this to give to Manny by wednesday.

I thought I would have time to work on the bookcase but I didn't feel like it. After I got back from having the Easter lunch with my wife, I finished the box and shut the lights out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did the french engineer Louis Reard create in june 1946?
answer - the bikini

everything but the kitchen sink.......

Sun, 04/16/2017 - 3:30am
I did a lot of different things today and it seemed like the only thing I didn't do was the kitchen sink. But the kitchen sink comes tomorrow. I'll be doing the cutout for it and maybe even the plumbing depending upon what is in the box. It's a two bowl sink so I'm hoping that at least the basket strainers come with it. Wish me luck on it because this will be my first one ever.

lumber haul
After OT today I went to Pepin Lumber to get some 1x12 stock to make my wife's bookcase. Pepin didn't have any 1x12s so I bought five 1x10s and one 1x4. Don't know why I bought the 1x4 other then it is rift sawn. I also decided by the time I got home that I wasn't gluing up boards to get the width I needed. By the time I quit the shop, three of the five boards had cupped. I'm sure that I'll be able to use these for something else.

1/4" thick solid banding
I bought several lengths of cherry and walnut 1/4" solid wood banding from Tico Vogt. I was going to use this on my work stand up desk.

it was going to hide the plywood edges
I am not using the plywood to make the desk. I want to use solid wood so I don't need the plywood nor the solid wood banding. None of this will go to waste but will be repurposed somewhere else.

fixing my problem pin and tail corner
Just a hint of a pencil line on the back side and it appears I missed some on the front.

now the tails are seated in the pin sockets.
still a bit proud but not as bad
sizing the plywood bottom
Found a small pine scrap that fits in the groove for the plywood bottom.

perfect measuring stick

a little fussing and the bottom was fitted
I was going to glue this up here and almost forgot to plow the groove for the sliding lid.

it's square
The plywood fits good in the groove all around. I like to use the plywood to help with squaring up the box. The plywood is dead nuts 90 at all four corners. Since it's plywood, I don't bother allowing for expansion and contraction. I still haven't been bit on the arse not doing that.

it fits
This is the iron I am using to plow the groove for the lid and I'm sharpening it before I use it. My 1/4" chisel won't fit in this but this iron which is thinner than a 1/4" does.

making a test groove
It took me 3 tries before I was happy with the test groove aligning where I wanted it on the box.

groove plowed
I went with straight through grooves. Manny likes walnut so I'll plug all the holes with that.

thin web left
I thought I had finally got the groove to be right on the edge but it wasn't so. I will make a shallow one pass rabbet on the bottom of the lid to compensate for this.

cleaned up the interior and now I'm ready to go to glue up
exit end of the lid groove
the entry end
I am sure glad that I checked this one last time before I started the glue up. My typical tapered cut and this would have cause a lot of problems come time to fit the lid.

small router won't fit
second hiccup
I usually leave the plow plane set up and I don't break it down until after I glue up. Today I had a mind fart and didn't do that. Now I have to set it back up to complete the tapered groove.

didn't move these two
The depth shoe and the iron are still set to what they were when I did the groove. I just have to set the fence and that was easy to do. Put the plane in the groove and slide the fence up to the edge and tighten it down.

what I should have done
The plane will stay set up while I glued the box up. Once it was glued I broke the plane down and stowed it.

no cutout look of the base
I like this look but it is an awfully long flat surface that has the potential to be off from it's mate slightly. Having four smaller bearing points is better and would be easier to correct for any rocking.

bookcase on my desk
I am going to copy this detail and use it on the walnut bookshelf.

glued up with hide glue
No need for clamps as the dovetails are snug enough to hold the box together as it set up. I set this aside until tomorrow. I roughed sized the with of the lid too and left the length long. I'll try to finish this tomorrow depending upon how the kitchen sink goes.

pit stop for some sheet rock work
My wife is fixing the holes that Manny had to make to do his electrical work last sunday. She needed two circles and 3 square and rectangular pieces. She is very good at patching these and has the patience of a saint doing it.

needed a pattern
I made a exact copy of the ash base in 1/4" plywood. I used the is draw my cutout ideas on and I then used it to trace it on the ash bases.

cleaned up with a rasp, spokeshave, and 120 grit sandpaper

handy biscuit gadget
This is the last thing I bought from Rockler about ten years ago. It will mark the center of #0, #10, and #20 biscuits and show the arc the saw blade cuts for each. That is what I was interested in here. I didn't want the saw slot blowing through at the front or the rear. I got it set so that was a 1/4" in from each end.

I was able to get 3 #20 biscuits in the base
small reveal on the inside
The reveal on the outside is wider and that is what I wanted. The one on the inside won't be see once the drawer goes in.

got my four smaller bearing points
checking the measurement scale - set at 1"
1" from the bottom of the fence to the center of the saw blade
cleaning up the outside of the ends
Once the base gets glued on it will be difficult to clean the them especially at the bottom. This is the first time that I have used walnut on a project and it is a nice wood to work. The grain on this is kicking my butt and laughing at me. The grain reverses on the left and the right side doesn't reverse but it won't clean up neither.

On the right side I tried the #3, the card scraper, the #80 scraper and got nowhere with them. The grain was fuzzy feeling after I used each one. I was making good shavings but the surface felt like sandpaper. The 220 grit sanding block I bought gave the best results and left a somewhat smooth surface.

Another thing the sanding block did was to highlight grain 'pockets'. It left areas where the grain looked rough but felt smooth. They were hollow areas and I used the card scraper to remove as much as I could. I had to be careful here because I didn't want scrape a bigger hollow trying to remove the grain problem.

glue ups suck
Gluing this up was a better torture than a water drip on your forehead every thought of being. I totally missed the bottom bases being tapered. I kept the cutoffs from the tapered tops and it was fun clamping the bases on without a cut off to help. I didn't have a lot of time to do this because I used yellow glue. I have never used hide glue on biscuits and I didn't want this to be my first time. This will be allowed to hog the bench until it has set up tomorrow.

glad I saved the cutout waste
trying a fix
The arm on my glasses broke. My backups are too strong to wear (my cataracts changed the prescription) . I can see close but anything greater than 5-6 feet is blurry. I went to the optical shop and ordered a couple of pairs of glasses but I won't get them for a couple of weeks. I am going to try and epoxy the arm back on. I got nothing to lose here and my fingers are crossed that it will work.

three 2x4 sheets of plywood
The plywood I had bought to use to make my computer desk at work will now be my wife's new bookcase. It will be 48" high, 30" wide, and 11" deep. Two of the cut up sheets will make the carcass and the last one will give up two shelves. I'll need one more sheet to make at least one more shelf and possibly two.

the carcass
This is going to be a tablesaw project. The bookcase will most likely get painted too. I will make the rabbets for the top, bottom, and back on the tablesaw and nail it together with my finish nailer.

bowed
This is the first piece of plywood I bought to make my stand up desk and it bowed. I am going to try and get a couple of shelves out of this hopefully. The plan is to glue and nail a piece of  rabbeted solid wood to the front and use that to take the bow out. Along with the weight of the books it should flatten it out and keep it that way.

1x10 pine
I think I can get all  the banding needed to cover all the plywood edges on the bookcase from this one board. If not I have four others awaiting their turn.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Danuta Rosani?
answer - he was the first Olympic athlete to be disqualified for taking drugs (1976 Montreal Olympics)

pizza night......

Sat, 04/15/2017 - 12:49am
It was a tough choice to make tonight, whether to go out for fish 'n chips, or order in pizza. Since it was after 1700 we opted for pizza. The driving force for pizza was me being in my shop clothes and not wanting to change to go out. Driving in 1700 rush hour traffic wasn't in my top ten list of things I wanted to do neither.

Came to a stop on the walnut bookshelf. If the bookshelf is placed on the bases dry, it doesn't rock. I like the big solid look of the bases with out any cutouts. What I don't want to bet the ranch on is that  gluing the bases on to the ends won't introduce any twist or some other stupid wood trick that will throw it off kilter enough to make it rock. I will probably make a cutout but I'm going to sit on making that call for a day or two.

worked on the sliding lid box
 Laid out the tails on the pin board and sawed them out. I am good on sawing the top square and sawing on or off the line. What I am not doing so good on is the plumb cut. I follow the plumb for about a 1/3 of the way going down and then go off slightly off the line as I saw to the baseline. So far I have been going off the line into the waste.

I've been doing dovetails now for about 6 years and I have slowly gotten better and better doing them. I've had to address, train, and practice for other things that I wasn't doing right with them and I'll do the same with this. I tried to deal with only one issue at a time if I could and now sawing plumb is the next culprit.

I'm happy with my sawing of the tails and the half pins. My chiseling of the waste is ok but it's something that I can't be complacent about. Because that has a habit of biting me on the arse. Fixing the out of square plumb cuts is easy to do with a chisel, but I want to saw the pins plumb the first time.

batting next
I want to get into the habit of sharpening the tools I'll need to work with before hand. The far left chisel I did last night and I just stropped it tonight. The other two I sharpened, honed, and stropped tonight. I was able to raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone on both chisels. I also checked for any light areas but I did not see any. The entire bevel was shiny on the both of them.

waste chopped out
I cleaned out the sockets and the moment of truth awaits.

off the saw
As many times as I have done this, I hope I never tire of it. There is something magical about this for me where sawing and chiseling different shapes come together and four of the six sides of a box are done.

The right side on the pin board is a bit proud and I'll have to look why that is.

gaps
I have a couple of tight pin/tail connections that are keeping the pin board from seating.

the back looks good
the left side too
I just have one corner to look at and fix on this.

flushing the bottom
Making the groove for the bottom is next and I need the bottom to be flush all around before I do that. One thing I want to try is making the groove first and then doing the tails and pins. Doing it on a shop box is a good one to try it out on.

x marks the bottom where the groove will go
Since I planed off all my reference marks, I lightly penciled in another set at the corners.

depth and distance for the groove set
I used to have a wooden fence on this that I need to fix or replace. It has a slight twist in it that I need to remove. I've been using the plow plane without it and I don't really miss it. I thought that having an auxiliary fence would make plowing grooves a lot easier. I don't see a big difference between having the fence and not having a fence. A fence does help keep the plane in line as you are starting and exiting but with a little extra attention I can do it sans the fence.

doubled up
The ends, and especially the front, are not wide enough to be caught in the dogs. By doubling them up I got enough hanging off the bench and still secure so I can plow the groove. I'll do the same for the long sides when their time comes.

had to move the scrap
I noticed the scrap bending after the end moved while I was trying to plow the groove. I moved the setup to what it is here. I finished plowing the grooves for both pieces without any more hiccups.

time to quit
I'll do the sides tomorrow and I should be able to get this glued and cooking too.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Captain Hanson Gregory invented this. It has neither weight nor density and it can be seen but not felt. What did he invent?
answer - the donut hole


thanx Peter......

Fri, 04/14/2017 - 12:20am
Biscuits will join the ends of the bookshelf to the bases. It isn't a simple matter of just plunging biscuits slots into the two. The bases are thicker than the ends so I have to account for that offset. Trying to figure out how to do it was giving me a headache. At this point in the game I didn't want to risk screwing up because I couldn't think this through spatially.

Peter left a comment explaining how to do it and although I didn't see it right away, I did after thinking about it. I was able to mentally picture doing it and it worked that way. I just have to figure out how to set the biscuit machine to the centerline of the ends. Thanx for the comment Peter and sharing the fix for all to read.

I have to make a copy of this but in solid wood
found a piece of ash
This is too good of a piece to use to practice making a biscuit slot. I'll just have to take my time and make sure I'm not in La-La Land when I do the deed.

If I understand what Peter said
The plywood is the reveal I want on the outboard face of the base.

the biscuit joiner has to be set to the center of the end
This is the unknown to me. I never read the instruction manual for this machine nor do I understand what the measurement scale is for on the side. Every time that I have used this I did it by eye and trial and error.

the second biscuit cuts
After the slots are done on the ends, the bases are next. Those are made without the plywood spacer.  This cut will be further into the base from the edge by the thickness of the plywood spacer. Exactly what I wanted to do but couldn't figure it out.

practice piece of pine for centerline practice
It is only 11/16" thick but I should be able to get close to the centerline.

set at 5/8"
I think I figured out what the measurement scale is for. It is the distance from the bottom of the fence to the center of the saw blade. I think. It looks like that is what it is indicating.

red line is aligned with the centerline
The measurement on the scale is a couple of frog hairs over 3/8". With the pine being less 3/4", I would expect it to be a few frog hairs shy of 3/8".

close
The pencil line is an eyeball line but I can the slot is a wee bit over the center.

tried to get the centerline with the spacer
I split it this time
Starting to gain some confidence that this will turn out to be no brainer to execute.

lines up
That pencil mark was made off the centerline from the pine and the plywood spacer. The slot from the biscuit joiner falls right on it. Next up is seeing how many biscuits to use to where and to put them.

the reveal is different
With the lines aligned, the reveal is off but I expected that. The pine is over a 1/8" thinner than the ends. The important thing is what Peter told me do works. I was able to step through it and at each step I understood what I was doing.  I know this will work.

no light showing
Sharpening my 1 1/2" butt chisel left the two top outside edges looking like they weren't sharpened. That indicated to me that maybe the diamond stones might be no longer flat across their width. I don't know how precise this is but no matter where or how I positioned the ruler, I never got any light at all under  it. Maybe I'm flexing the width of the chisel somehow as I sharpen it? I checked all 3 of the stones in the wooden base with the same results.

almost forgot my new rule
The chisels were cutting and since I only had a few to do I would have probably kept on going. I need these 3 to chop the tail waste so I'll sharpen and hone them first. Then I'll chop out the waste.

the LN honing guide PITA
My Ashley Iles 1/4 and 1/8 inch chisels will not fit in the 'standard' jaws. I have to change them out and put on the small tool jaws.

raised a burr on all 3 on my coarsest diamond stone
After the coarsest stone I went through my other 3 diamond stone finishing up on the 8K japanese stone. I stropped all 3 chisels before chopping the waste. I also checked the outside corners and I didn't see any light or unsharpened spots. I had a shine on the entire bevel.

what a difference sharp makes
I'll do the pins tomorrow
something new to try
I got this at Lowes or Home Depot this past weekend. It was about $4 for the pkg (with two pads) and I decided to give it a try.

the bottom and top
Of the six surfaces, only the two ends don't have any sanding stuff on them. I'm curious to how well the hexagons will sand without making a lot of dips and hollows. I guess the channels are where the no clogging claim comes from.

found the lid
I found it on the washing machine and I have no idea how it got there. I have a bad habit of using stock earmarked for a project as scrap for some immediate need at hand. Especially so if it gets separated from the herd. I don't stop to think that maybe it is for something else and when I find it out I'm usually very unhappy about it. I am trying to keep these all together so I don't do that here.

This box will be getting a plywood bottom and due to it's size I'm going with 1/4".  I won't be gluing it to the bottom but it will be set in a groove along the inside bottom edge. Haven't decided yet on making stopped grooves or plowing straight on through.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Burleigh Grimes?
answer - A Hall of Frame MLB Pitcher who threw the last legal spitball in 1934

garbage day......

Thu, 04/13/2017 - 12:13am
Wednesday is put the garbage out curbside for pickup on thursday. I don't get much shop time so I
 try to do any errands on the way home on wednesdays too. Today I was under the gun to get the garbage curbside, ASAP, because  rain had been threatening to fall since lunch time. I'm too old, fat, and slow to run inbetween rain drops anymore.

the wife's bookcase is history
My wife got this from the clearance aisle at Target for $17.

what the holes looked like right out of the box
My wife told me the box didn't look like it had been opened but she thinks someone bought this, screwed up trying to put it together, and brought it back to Target. She was unfortunate to be the next person to buy it. I sawed up all the parts and put them in the shitcan. Whatever I can fit in it, the garbage man will take.

 sawed up some of this to go into the shitcan too
25 minutes later
I sawed up solid wood, plywood, fiberboard, and formica with a 8 pt crosscut saw. It sailed through everything without one whimper.

ready to go
I was surprised that I had an almost full bin of cardboard and paper to put curbside too.

test idea hit a roadblock
The only walnut I have the same as the ends are the two angled cut offs. I don't have any ash the same as the bases to use. It didn't happen tonight but I think the next idea will be to see how well I can set the biscuit machine on the centerline of some pine scraps.

made an angled saw cut on the right side
I like it but not this one
I think the angle clip is a better way to treat the end vice leaving it squared off. The angled cut gives it a somewhat finished look.

angle went too far
The other side of the miter ends past the molded edge. That makes the molded edge look like it is not finished and it is just hanging there.

second angle
This is what I am going with. I like the look of this and that the angled cut stops before the end of the profile. I can't explain it too well other then to say, between the two, I like this one better, best, and it's the winner.

had time to saw the tails
Force of habit caused me to grab this. It makes a kerf that is the same width as the dovetail and I used it to knife my square lines for the tails for the saw to run in. I stopped using this as a training wheel and I rely on my eye and the level of my sawing skills to saw a square line now.

tails sawn
I marked the baselines on the tail boards and sawed off the half pins. I'll chop the waste on these tomorrow.

used a chisel
I used the corner of the chisel and slowly removed the waste.

99% done
A portion of the wedge got glued to the slat and that required a delicate touch to remove it. I'm glad that it is on the underside of the slat.

small scraper cleaned it up
This is a waste cut off from saws that Issac Blackburn sells.  I bought ten of them from him in various sizes and they are real handy to have especially for tight spots like this.

time to quit
I was sweating pretty good from sawing up the wood in the backyard and I was getting it all over the bookshelf. This was a good time to shut the lights off.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many volumes are in the Pentagon Papers (the study of Vietnam War)?
answer - 47

another seashore shop night......

Wed, 04/12/2017 - 12:29am
I don't have anything cooking that needs my undivided attention now. Everything I have going in the shop I can leave or take as much time with as I want, if I want to finish it. I think it has to do with the last two days being absolutely top notch in my corner of the universe. Spring is almost here and the temp today hit 80°F at my house (27°C) which I think broke the record of 79°F set in 1955. I don't know what the official temp at Green Airport was but I'll find out tomorrow.

My wife bought a bookcase because she said she didn't want to wait for me to make one. She bought a knock down, vinyl covered sawdust and glue piece of crappola that she threw away. 6 of the 8 corner screws blew out so there was no way it could be put together. I told her no that I could not screw or glue it together. I am now making her a bookcase but she won't tell what style etc she wants but I know when it's done, it won't be to her liking. I've heard I'll like whatever you make too many times go south.  I'll get the wood for it and my computer work desk at the same time.

My split and repaired leg computer desk is working very well and instead of making the real one out of plywood, I am going to use solid wood. I would show pics of it in action but I am not allowed to take pics at work. I did not know that until it was pointed out to me.

awaiting the unclamping
I removed each clamp by turning it less than a full turn and it came off. The bookcase didn't relax or expand, nor was there are creaking or groaning. I take this as a sign that my joinery was good and the carcass stayed square as the glue set.

molded edge
I think this is just right and fits the scale of the shelf. I'm rethinking cutting the corners off at an angle because this look is growing on me. I will saw an angle on the test piece I molded so I can see what it looks like.

piece of maple
I can not see a big enough difference between the poplar and the maple 'white' color wise. The slats are at the back and with a full shelf of books, won't be seen. I might have used maple but the only maple stock I have is 3/8" thick. That is too thin to provide adequate support for the books.

this thought went south
I was thinking of not putting on the bases but sawing a small cutout on the bottom. With the angles I already have done, it would look off kilter. I would have to saw an angle on both ends and hope that they came out the same to harmonize it.

the angles look better sitting on the base
I could rent out that space to park cars
A drawer will be made to fill up this space. The next question is do I make it square or taper it to fit the space? I put the walnut bookshelf aside for now and turned to other things.

squared and got the box parts to length
from R to L
The right one was done first and it is smooth. The second one from the right is kind of chewed up and the last two are torn out. They are all square but not all smooth like the right one.

YUK!
This is the tannic acid and I have mold are something else growing in it. It is also a lot darker than I remember it being in december. Maybe this is why I'm not getting a rich deep black color,

not even close
I put another application of tannic acid and the iron and nothing. Even wet the color is not getting the deep black of the cell phone holder. This will be the last attempt with this tannic acid. I will make a fresh batch and start over again. The iron looks to be done cooking and the tannic acid is mix and use right away.

checking my router plane sole
I couldn't find any dings or scratches anywhere on the sole itself. The slots in the base are kind a sharp but I couldn't feel any bumps or burrs on them.

a wee bit rough in this area on both sides.
jewelers files
I bought these while I was in the navy and I don't use them that often. I need them now and I have a boatload of profiles to pick from and use.

used a flat and a round file
There were a few small burrs here and I'm not sure if they were in the way or not. I filed this area and the big circular opening too.

filed and sanded the arris on the slot on both sides
I still will spend a few calories sanding and polishing the sole. That will be put on the B list to done whenever.

noticed something tonight
The top and middle box I just made and the bottom box I made in 01/2015.

same detail
I thought the astragal detail and the slant front edge I put on the top two boxes was original. Turns out that it is old news.

my other router plane
This one feels just as good on the sole and the slot up behind the iron has no burrs or other hiccups. The slots for the fence are as sharp as the other router though.

laid out the tails for the next sliding lid box
I blew out a chip on this corner that I have to glue before I continue. It must have happened when I squared the ends.

back to the bases
I am going to biscuit the bottom of the ends to the base. If I use screws I'll be going into the end grain so that isn't an option.  Dowels are another choice but I have never had any luck even lining up two dowels. This would need a minimum of two in each base. Biscuits are the lead off batter.

both ends are close in thickness
They are almost dead nuts flush with each other. You certainly can't see any difference in the thickness by looking at them.

the reveal
Rather than go nutso trying to get an even reveal on both sides, I am going to make the outside reveal the same. The inside reveal will probably be hidden by the drawer so if there is any fudging I'll do it there.

now comes the hard part
Trying to figure out how to get the biscuit slots in the right place on the base and the bottom of the ends is making me feel like I have an IQ that didn't make it out of  the single digits. There is a 3/16" reveal between the outside edge of the base and the edge of the end. I can't seem to wrap my head around how to do it correctly.

make a slot in the base
This one I think should be centered. Check.

do I center the one on the ends?
If I do it this way, will the reveal be the same on both? For some reason I want to use a 3/16" spacer somewhere but would that put the biscuit slot to close to outside edge on the ends? I would like to be able to walk through this in my mind with out hallucinating and having bad dreams at night. I think I will solve it by brute force. I have enough scraps that I can make at least 4 practice runs to figure it out.

I haven't forgotten the clock
I can not get over the fact that this almost $100 movement has plastic @#^(%%$#^^&;@))(*&^$%#@ hands. I ordered more hands from two other clock companies and they don't fit. I'm stuck using the plastic crap that came with movement. I brought the box upstairs and maybe one these nights after the blog is written, I'll cry and put the hands on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the state flower of the State of Massachusetts?
answer - the mayflower

walnut bookshelf pt III.........

Tue, 04/11/2017 - 12:23am
Had an easy night in the shop tonight where I felt like the sea washing up on shore and then slowly falling back. No rhyme or reason guiding me nor anything shouting out to be done. I didn't rush in what I did do but just let unfold. If I got it done ok, if not, ok there too.

started here
I did this first because I remembered a pic from yesterday's post still showing the square line on this end. Most of it was buried but 3/4" of the shelf projects beyond the end and it showed.

have to make the back slats the same length
I used this piece of 1/4" plywood to raise the slats up so the so the iron would be shaving with a new spot on the iron.

without the plywood piece I was getting dust
with the plywood piece - wispy shavings
The iron in the shooter is already dull and needs to be resharpened. This worked for the 1/2" slats but it isn't something I want to do for everything I have to shoot. Maybe I will get a better edge that lasts longer if I sharpen the iron on waterstones. Could be the impetus for making a ramped shooting board too.

decided to do the angles first
I tried to think about sawing the angles after the glue up and it got real ugly in my mind way too quick. I did the cuts now and I'll deal with the clamping when it comes. I did all the layout for the angles based on 2". The front angle starts 2" up from the top of the dado is 2" in from the top front edge. The top angle starts 2" up from the top of the top back slat and ends 2" down from the top front.

I planed the front cuts smooth and square now but I left the top rough as the came off the saw. I'll do them after I glue the bases to the ends.

labeled the top cutoffs
I left these rough because I want that to help keep them from slipping when I use them to clamp the bases on.


first molding choice
I am doing something wrong because the shoulder at the top is tapered. Molding this edge in the walnut was a silky smooth adventure. Easily done, no tear out, no stalling or digging in, one smooth fluid stroke end to end. I was able to fix the taper when I made another practice run on the opposite side. I wasn't shifting pressure to the front end as I moved away from the right going left.

 bigger profile
This is very similar but I don't like the scale of it. I am going with the first one I picked.

using hide glue
need gap filler
The bookshelf is glued and together but not clamped. I want to get the gap filled in the middle back slat before I clamp it. Just noticed that the wedge will be end grain and I wanted face grain. Sawed the wedge at the wrong spot. It is the middle bottom slat so it won't be that visible.

tapped it home
After this has set up I will chisel or knife or saw the excess away. Actual removal method to be determined.

checking for clearance
I looked at the squared off ends of the shelf and I'm not hating them but I'm also not asking them to dance with me. I think clipping them off at an angle, not necessarily a 45°, will tidy up the ends.

keeping an eye on my clamping pressure
The bottom slat bowed about an 1/8" in the middle but the square had contact with all 3 just about everywhere else I checked it.


edge protectors
I have found out the painful way that the weight of these bessey clamps and the serrations in the bar will leave indentations in the wood if it rests upon the edge. I don't want anything to mar the show edges of the bookshelf.

road test with my largest hardcover book
road test with an average size book.
I was hoping that the average sized book would have been behind the molding edge. It looks like if I hadn't molded the edge, it would have been.

Still haven't come with a way to attach the ends to the bases. I'll have to think of something by tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many clubs is a pro golfer allowed to carry in his bag?
answer - no more than 14 (there is no minimum)

walnut bookshelf pt II........

Mon, 04/10/2017 - 1:22am
The queasy visitor I had yesterday went south overnight which was welcomed by me. It seems the older I get the more I feel like crappola over almost nothing. Especially so over things that never bothered me even 5 years ago. So far the good days are still out numbering the bad ones.

last shelf dado done
It was a lot better feeling doing this dado over the other one I did yesterday. I got as good of a fit on this side too. The shelf fits the dado tightly at the front where it is very visible. The corners will be clipped at a 45° and I am thinking of molding some kind of an edge detail with one of my molding planes.

serendipitous goof
 I chopped the dado on the wrong side of the line. The shelf should be closer to the ash base. But this will work in my favor because I'll get to do something I had planned on doing on one of these. The bottom of the shelf is 3 1/4" high and that is enough room to put a drawer. This is what I had wanted to do but had nixed it. Now I will be doing it because I need something here to knock down the height of the shelf and fill that big empty space underneath it.

my only piece of walnut
The length on this is good but the width is a little short at 1 1/2". I want something closer to 2 1/2 to 2 3/4". Unfortunately for me the only readily available source of walnut is the exorbitant priced stuff at Home Depot. It will take some time thinking before I pull the trigger on buying that.

the bases are too long
I want these to be an inch longer than the sides are wide. I will have to saw off 2" to shorten these.

looks better to my eye
I will also do a shallow cutout on the bottom so the contact area won't be so long. There will be less of a chance of it rocking and it will be easier to correct if there are 4 smaller contact points.

squaring up the back slats
The mortise depth for the slats will be the same as the depth of the bookshelf. The slats will be the same length as the bookshelf is.

I was wrong
Sharpening this small router iron is the hardest one I have to do free hand. It is a lot harder to do then the large router irons. It was difficult to grip and keep it straight as I tried to sharpen it. The next time I do this I'll have to allow extra minutes to do this.

back slat mortises laid out and ready to be chopped out
bit of a gap I don't want
I have two ways to fix this that come to mind. The first is glue in a walnut chip or secondly, make a new back slat oversized in the width. Then plane both ends to fit in their respective sides. I think gluing a chip in the gap will be the lead off batter.

couldn't find a book
The dry fit appears to be ok. The fit of the parts are all good with the exception of the one gappy back slat.

got a good fit
I'm rethinking ebonizing the back slat. With the bookshelf dry fit, I'm liking the look of the whiteness of the poplar back slats against the walnut. Along with not ebonizing the  back slats, I'm thinking the same for the bases. I like the color contrast a lot between the two. Since I would have to wait before ebonizing this, I have time to make a decision on it.

gaps
The middle and top slats are bowed and there is a gap between them and the square. I relaxed clamps a half turn and most of the gap disappeared.


double checking my depth
The router left a hump in the middle of the mortise that I had to chisel flat. That was because the mortise length wouldn't allow for router to work from both sides. The router iron ended up on the middle point of the mortise so I couldn't plow an even depth from there to outsides. A couple of the mortises had high corners that I chiseled flat. I think doing this and not being ham fisted with the clamps will get rid of the bowed back slats.

 1 1/2" butt chisel
This the chisel I used to make the dadoes and the mortises. There is a burr or metal folded back onto this side on the right and a little bit on the far left. It is still sharp and cutting without a lot of effort but this is something I wasn't expecting to see after one use.

light reflected off the top
The bevel doesn't go right to the end but instead it looks like it has a flat. I have seen this when I didn't raise a burr and still thought I had sharpened it.

see the light areas on the two outside corners
I couldn't raise a burr on the coarse diamond stone so I went to the 80 grit runway and raised a burr right away. These two light areas showed up after I got to the second diamond stone.

no light areas from the 80 grit
tiny bit of light
I was able to take a few extra strokes and the light areas went away. This is my coarsest diamond stone.

my coarse diamond stone
The light areas showed up here and got more pronounced by the time I got to the 8K japanese stone. I could get rid of them if I tilted the iron up onto the corner and stroked away. I sharpened this the way I did the first time and I'll use it as it is. Maybe this is why I can't raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone but I have to use the 80 grit runaway.

3 more boxes
One of these boxes will be a sliding lid box and the other two will be open ones. A friend of mine came today with his son and did some electrical work for me. He installed a light and 3 outlets and only charged me $150 for over 4 hours work. He came to the shop and saw my boxes and he really liked them. I didn't have an extra one to give to him so he'll be getting these when I finish them.

playing with the angles
I put a curve on the top but I don't think it goes with the overall look. Instead I will go with the two angled cuts. If I don't cut them now I'll have to do after it is glued up. Doing it then will be a PITA but doing it now and then clamping it after it has been glued will be a bigger PITA. Something else to mull over.

kind of ready to glue up
Along with all the other stuff that will give me headaches, I still haven't picked a way to attach the feet to the bases.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first captain of the Starship Enterprise NCC-1701?
answer - Robert April

started the walnut bookshelf.........

Sun, 04/09/2017 - 3:03am
Today was another day where I felt blah. It started the night before with a italian sausage grinder with peppers, cheese, and onions I had for dinner. Next to fish and chips there isn't a finer thing to eat in this world. Well that grinder decided to go nutso in my insides and make me pay for eating it. I hardly got any sleep and doing my overtime this morning was an adventure in fighting the urge to toss my cookies. That didn't happen but it was a very uncomfortable feeling especially when it lasts seemingly forever. It did slow me down in the shop today big time.

layout for the shelf and back slats
I put the ends in the vise and squared the back to the bottom and across the faces. The shelf is referenced off the bottom and the back slats off the bottom and the sides.

3 back slats
The slats are 1 1/2" wide and a 1/2" thick.  The bottom slat is 1" up from the top of the shelf and there is 1 1/2" between them. These slatsboards are just for showing  the layout. I bought 1/2" poplar at Lowes on the way home from work this morning.

not black yet
I put on a coat of tannic acid and I let that dry before I put the iron on.

before I do the shelf dadoes I need to finalize the length of the shelf
I would have liked to have the shelf as long as the board is here. But it is only 3/4" thick and I don't want it to sag. The shelf will be about 24" long after I saw it to length. I need the shelf done because I need it to mark the dado walls.

not rubbing here
The square is tight and rubbing for about half the length, When it gets to the foreground edge, it is free wheeling and not touching the end. The shelf has to be dead square because the front edge will be visible in the dado. Don't want ugly looking gaps staring back at me.

I left the line
After fussing with it, planing and checking several times, I go it square. The square was tight to the end and dragging equally across it. This layout line will be buried in the dado and won't be seen.

stopped here
One thing I am remiss in doing is sharpening or touching up tools before I start working on project. I will stop and sharpen a tool as I am working if it gets dull. This is the chisel I use to chop dadoes and it is also the one I keep it out on the bench for when I need a chisel for whatever. I thought of the tools I would be using on the build today and I'm sharpening the chisel first.

I remember the last time I sharpened this and I had to establish the bevel and raise a burr on it on the 80 grit runway. I tried raising the burr on the coarsest diamond stone and got nowhere. A couple of minutes of back and forth and not even a hint of a burr. This is one aspect of sharpening that befuddle the crappola out of me.

I use a honing guide and a set up gizmo so the projection in the guide is always the same so why can't I raise a burr now? To my thinking, since I am doing all these dance steps, I should be able to raise a mountain of a burr on the coarse diamond stone. That didn't happen.

had to use the 80 grit runway
I can not figure out what I am doing wrong or if this is normal. Is something happening during use between sharpenings that causes the bevel to do some kind of unknown to mankind stupid trick? I don't mind having to go to the 80 grit runway but I expected it to be a one time trip only. Subsequent trips to the stones wouldn't need this and could be done on the coarse diamond stone.

the 4 1/2 iron
I will be using the chisel to chop the dadoes and the 4 1/2 will be my go to plane. Got the same dance card punched here too. Couldn't raise a burr on the coarsest diamond stone and I had to dance on the 80 grit runway. After a minute or so I only had a burr on the corners. It was a couple of minutes before I got a consistent burr.

the iron looks like it is laminated

thinking of making another strop
After seeing the size of Richard Maguire's runway strop and a few other large ones on You Tube, I think I'm going to make a longer one. I think I have enough leather here to get two out of it.

chewed up strop
When I come back for the return stroke after exiting the strop, I don't also clear then end. I'm getting better at avoiding this but it still occasionally happens. Maybe with a longer length this will stop altogether.

autosol
This is some impressive stuff. I put some of this on a couple of weeks ago and it still looks pretty good. I use this plane daily and there are few blemishes on it but overall it looks good.

it's been about an hour since I put on the tannic acid
The tannic acid was dry to the touch so I put on the iron. It is starting to turn this black and the tiger striping is toning down a lot.

the other side
This side of the ash piece had the tiger striping but it appears to be gone now. However, this is wet and I'll have a better idea of what it is really like when it dries.

forgot a tool
I forgot to sharpen the iron on my router plane. I know this is sharp from my last use so I am touching it up on the fine diamond stone and the 8K japanese stone. I didn't feel a burr on this but should I feel one on the finer stones? I have never bother to check for one on any of the router irons I have. Food for thought, eh?  This is the hardest iron for me to hold and sharpen freehand. I would pony up wads of american dollars to buy a honing guide for sharpening something like this.

a little too snug
The top side of the dado is very good looking and tight along it's length.

the bottom seam isn't as tight
I made all my adjustments to get this to fit on the bottom side of the shelf and the bottom wall of the dado.

something new
The router plane is making indents and scratchy things on the walnut. I am sure that I can get rid of these with the #80 but I'll have to smooth the sole of this router.

got to use my side rabbit planes
I used both of them. One I removed the front shoe so I could get right up to the back of the stopped dado. The other one I used to get the front end of the dado. They only hiccup I had was setting the depth. I initially set the depth too deep and the iron left a line at the bottom of the dado. The both of them worked well and the learning curve for their use was short.

this will have to wait until tomorrow
It took me over 6 hours to sharpen a few tools and make and fit one dado. Not one of my more productive days in the shop.

put another round of ebonizing on the test pieces
It is wet but I can see that it is finally turning black like I remember from December.

the other faces
Something to put away in the brain bucket for my next ebonizing outing. Let the steel wool and vinegar cook for at least a week before using it.

Salko Safic who writes the Journeyman Journal has been posting old catalogs that are available for download. He posted a Millers Falls Handbook for mechanics today and I found a ebonizing recipe in it. It calls for Yellow chromate powder and Logwood powder. That author wrote that it will ebonize most woods. I did a search for the two ingredients and I found Logwood powder but I haven't had luck with Yellow chromate powder. I'll keep looking because I want to try this one.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was George Armstrong Custer's rank when he was killed at the Little Big Horn in 1876?
answer - Lt Colonel  (he was a brevetted Major General in the Civil War)

fixed it......

Sat, 04/08/2017 - 1:07am
I kind of knew what was wrong last night but I can be a wee bit bull headed at times. I need to have the brain bucket rattled sometimes before I see the light. My journey to understanding more about sharpening continues and it is something that I have to learn not to take for granted anymore.

where I left off last night
I blew out a corner on one end that I glued and it set up overnight. The main problem is the squareness of the ends isn't 100%. I laid both pieces on the two legs and I didn't see any gaps. So in that respect you could say the end was flat and square. But a square on the ends showed a bit of light even though it looked square. The square didn't drag across the whole length of the end so I knew it could be improved.

no gaps
Other than the leg being too long for the end (it'll be trimmed), the end is solidly on it. It appears to be laying straight up and square so appearance wise it looks ok. I think I could continue on from here and build the book shelf without any major hiccups. I don't think I'm being too fussy with trying to get the ends dead nuts and that is what I'm shooting for (pun intended).


last night shavings
The second iron I put in the #8 was definitely sharper than the one it replaced. I had a freshly sharpened iron in the plane but I still felt like I was fighting it. There is a certain ease with using a sharp iron that was almost totally absent here. This is a feeling I know and was expecting here.

I only have two #8 irons
I decided to sharpen and hone both irons so I would have both of them starting from the same reference point.

opened a big ass box of brain food
started at ground zero
I flattened the backs again starting on the 80 grit belt. After the 80 grit I went to work on my coarse diamond removing the scratches from the 80 grit belt. I stopped after this and didn't use any of the other diamond stones.

raised a consistent burr
I got my initial burr on the back off of the 80 grit belt. From here I went to the diamond stones.


still have a consistent burr
I've been through the 3 diamond stones and the 8K japanese water stone on the right is the polishing stone. Once I'm done with that it is on to stropping and putting the iron in the plane.

2nd iron
It took 3 times as long to raise the burr on this iron as it did on the first one. I don't think I raised a burr on this when I first sharpened it. I completed sharpening this the same way as the first one. This is also the iron I swapped out on the #8 last night and used to get 'square' ends.

I want to stop using this
Now that I know I have raised a burr at the start of the sharpening and maintained it right up to the 8K, I want to stop using the 80 grit runway initially. The next time these #8 irons have to be touched up or sharpened I will try to raise the burr on my coarsest diamond stone.

big difference
The plane still wanted to go to the right but I was able to keep it up against the edge. I felt an ease pushing the plane from one end to the other. I also was able to almost go end to end in one push.

rough sawn end
This is a cutoff from the ends I'm using on the bookshelf.

3 swipes
As sharp as I thought the iron was last night, this one is much sharper and much easier to use. There is a small area by my hand that is lower than the rest of the edge and it didn't get planed. But there is a huge improvement in the look and feel of the rest of the end grain.

wispy shavings this time

re-squaring the ends
I am squaring the ends again now that I have a truly sharp iron in the plane.

shavings from re-squaring
These are not as thick as the ones I got last night. Tonight the iron is sharp and it is set about where I had it yesterday but the shavings are thinner and cleaner tonight. Sharp continues to fix a lot of sins.

dead nuts square now
The square drags across the entire end on both pieces. There is absolutely no light under the square and now I can say that they are 100% dead nuts square.

the top
The tops aren't even but it has no effect on the build. The bottom edge I just squared is the reference. The tops will be sawn at an angle after the dadoes are all done and a dry fit is ok. If the two angles are off  a wee bit it won't matter.

the black I'm shooting for
This is one the last pieces I ebonizied back in december. I've got a long ways to go to match that depth of black.

iron solution

This is starting to look like what I remember the december iron solution looking like. And it is starting to have a stronger apple cider smell that I recall also.

this is encouraging
My fourth application of tannic acid and iron and I am finally seeing a black color developing.

the opposite face
It doesn't like this face too much. There is a tiger stripe effect showing here. I thought of planing this to have a fresh face but it was planed before I started. Only this one face didn't turn black. I will keep applying the two to see if I can match the black from december.

poplar shows some tiger stripes
the other face is getting blacker
I am still leaning in the direction that I didn't let the apple cider vinegar and steel wool stew long enough before using it. I'll keep on slathering away with it and see what shakes out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the french game called trictrac?
answer - backgammon

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