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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2664125
Updated: 55 min 36 sec ago

one more day of rest......

21 hours 6 min ago
The hands felt a lot better today. No twinges and by mid morning I had no more aches. I am still going to take it easy for another day. The rehab of the #6 planes can wait a little while longer. I'm sure they aren't looking forward to what is upcoming. I have plenty of things I can do while I rest and heal.

wavy tooth line
I put the saw back in the vise and started to work on the problem areas I marked yesterday. Some of them I fixed and others will have to wait and catch up. Tonight I'm seeing a few spots where a couple of teeth are higher then their neighbors.

Mt Everest
How did I miss this wavy undulating tooth line last night. I thought I had done a pretty good job but tonight I can see it is mostly crappola.

whoa big doggie
I thought I would file the high teeth back down to match the others in the line and then sharpen it again. No wonder my tooth line looks like crap. A dog's hind leg is straighter than this saw. It had not occurred to me to check for this first. This roller coaster tooth line explains why my teeth are so uneven.

I like this one
This is what I used to joint the tooth line the first time. Not a good choice considering the dipsy doodles I have in this saw. As an side, if anyone knows of a source for short files like this please leave a comment.

Lee Valley file jointer.
This is long enough to bridge some of the hills and valleys. I should be able to even out the tooth line but it may take a while.

it' better but not complete
The file is evening out the tooth line but the problem is I won't have any teeth left at the toe and the heel by the time I get to the mid section. The teeth are almost gone at the toe and heel with just the bottom of the gullets left. I don't have the skills to file a complete set of new teeth from nothing. I will have to find someone who can punch me a new set of teeth. That is the only way I can see of fixing this.

makes rip cuts easily
I looked at this saw under the magnifying glass and I am still not 100% sure of how it is filed. From the side it looks like a rip.  Looking at it from the side it kind of looks like a crosscut but it doesn't have the angles a crosscut has. There is also very little discernible set.

a couple of shoulder cuts
I am going with a rip cut. It didn't like sawing these shallow crosscut shoulders at all. The rip cut was smooth and fluid and the crosscuts were hesitant and jerky. Now I have to decide if I want to try and file this myself or send it out.

I'm leaning in the direction of sending it out and having it filed properly. The tooth line on this saw isn't perfect either. It is almost straight and there aren't any missing teeth.  If a pro does it I'm sure I can follow on that and keep it in good shape.

never thought of doing this before
I ran all three of my tite marks over the 8K stone and it made a difference.

nice clean knife line - sharp cures another problem
trying out the 140 again
I knew I should have removed the side plate last night but I wanted to see how it felt and what she could do. Doing it the right way felt real good.

nice clean shoulder
I would think that I wouldn't need to make the rabbet any deeper than this for dovetails?

side plate
This didn't come off as easily as I thought it should. Maybe it needs to cycled off and on a bunch of times to loosen up a bit. It went back on without any problems but still stiff removing it for the second time.

no slant to outboard on this practice run
slanted across the width
Put too much pressure on the heel of the plane doing the start of the cut.

corrected - flat, straight, and even end to end
the action of the plane is very sweet
skew blocks for the LN honing guide
Deneb says that this iron has to be done free hand or with the jaws that fit the iron. These are the ones I bought to do the LN skew chisels. I'll have to check the LN website to see if I need to buy a set for this iron. If I remember right they offer a 30° and 18° set of honing guide blocks.

I like this saw
I can't saw this good with my LN tenon saw. I like the feel and action of this saw a lot. I think it may become my go to tenon saw. It has thicker plate, more weight, and for me it makes it easier to saw a truer cut.

found a box for the 140
lots of room
shucks
The shaft for the fence is too long to stow upright (the way I want it). The lid won't close with it this way. I would have started on making a new box for it tonight but I don't have any stock. I have 1/2" thick poplar but I prefer pine for my shop boxes. I'll have to make a run to Pepin Lumber and get some 1/2" pine. I hope that they still have some to sell.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Juan Sebastian Elcano?
answer - he was the first person to circumnavigate the world (He assumed command after Magellan was killed in the Philippines)

another day of rest.......

Tue, 10/17/2017 - 1:25am
My thumbs hurt all day long, especially my master right one. I'll admit I haven't been a good little boy with taking my blue pills so I'm paying the price. As I am typing this I am getting an occasional twinge of pain. Early today I was seriously thinking of going home but stayed. My fingers would have hurt the same at home as they did at work. So I'll be doing less intensive finger things in the shop and I will start taking my twice daily blue pills.

this is past due
Evaporarust usually has a greenish tint to it and this is jet black. This isn't any good so I'll dump it and I'll have to buy another jug of it. The only place I've found it in my area is at an auto parts store.

every shop needs a few different sizes of these
there's the yoke pin
I haven't lost any parts down the drain since I started using this. And it's nylon so no rust problems.

all blown dry
A blow dryer in the shop is another good thing to have.

a moment of weakness
I've  been reading about and getting comments on making a shallow rabbet for the tail board to close up gaps on dovetails. Ken Hatch recently wrote about Alan Peter's 140 trick using this block plane. I had passed on one of these a few months ago and I should have bought it. This was $225 new from LN and the one I passed on was $100.


Gaps on the inside of dovetails bug me for whatever reason. I think what is causing it is I'm moving my knife line ever so slightly as I chop. I have come close a few times with almost no gaps but I have yet to do any 100% gap free. I got this for the fixing the gaps more than for registration. I also got it because Deneb said it will make bread board ends.


it's a heavy one too (one kilo)
run a gauge line
I figured it out
I like these mini tite mark gauges a lot but I was having problems with the wheel cutters. They were disintegrating on me. First a few chips and then big chunks of it went MIA. I didn't know what was wrong or what was causing it. The problem was me and my ham fisted marking pressure. The cutters are fine and do what they are designed to do - make a clean precise knife line - without a lot of downward pressure exerted on them. I had stopped using them and switched to old wooden marking gauges.

The problem was me digging into the wood too hard with gauge. My attempt to make the line as deep as I could was too much for the gauge. I just happened to look at the cutter wheel as I was trying to make a deeper line and I saw the cutter wheel peel off like a shaving coming up through the mouth of a plane.So I think if I let up on the depth of the line, my cutter wheels should last. I forgot to add them to the LN order when I bought the 140 block plane.

I am not doing something right here
I had watched LN's You Tube video on this plane and Deneb said that it is a finicky plane to set up. I had it set too deep on my initial try. I would have bet a lung I was good on that but I wasn't. Once I got it set I did make fluffy and wispy shavings.

slanted
This is what happens with every new plane I use. I'll continue to practice and I'll get it.

I think I made a mistake in not removing the right side plate on the plane. That would allow the iron to get up tight into the bottom of the rabbet. The shoulder on this looks like crap and it should be crisp and clean.

better on the second run
The shoulder still looks like crap so I'm sure that the side plate should be removed . Removing the side plate will also give me access to the knicker. I'll try that out tomorrow.

new saw for Miles's toolbox
a carcass saw?
The top saw is my sash saw and the bottom one is my LN cross cut carcass saw. I think this Disston #4 saw will do ok as a carcass saw. I'll look it up and see what it's original use was.

ripped ok but the saw is dull
hard to crosscut
I really struggled making this crosscut in 3/4" pine. It bound and stuck seemingly on every other stroke. I finally made it through but it was a workout.

the teeth look like crap (Disston #4)
It is hard to tell if this is a rip or a crosscut. I felt very little set as I run my fingers down the tooth line. I put this one aside and filed a small rip saw that I'm giving to Miles.


small rip saw - jointing the the tops of the teeth
I am going to sharpen this small rip saw that I am going to put into Miles's toolbox. I jointed the tops of the teeth and this is about the middle of the saw. The tooth line wasn't even after 4-5 strokes down the saw with the jointer.

the toe
the heel
The heel looked the best tooth wise which I expected.


11 TPI
the toe after I sharpened them
time to test my work
This saw wouldn't saw 1/2" stock before I sharpened it and that is what this is.


not too bad
It is fairly straight and I had no problems sawing it. It was definitely a huge improvement over the sawing I tried before I sharpened it. The saw also has no set that I can feel. I'll be doing that for the first time tomorrow.

not bad for my second attempt at sharpening
missed a few
Only five teeth still have file jointing marks that I didn't file away when I sharpened. There was one area that had 4-5 misshaped and missing teeth that I think I made better and worse. Instead of 4-5 goofy teeth I now have 2.

sharpie marks the rework spots
From the heel going to the toe about 4 inches is the best looking real estate. I marked all the problem areas that need further help. Overall, I think I improved the tooth line compared to the original line of garbage I inherited. It will be a while before I master this and it will just take some time and a lot of practice.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a nonce?
answer - something that is made or used only once


it's football season.......

Mon, 10/16/2017 - 12:53am
I used to be a rabid football fan. I wouldn't miss a game even if I was having a heart attack. Now, I'm ambivalent about it. I follow the Patriots and today is the first game I am watching on TV.  Well I kind of watched it. I had been going back forth from the living room to the workshop inbetween plays. But by half time I was committed to sitting and watching.

Football doesn't hold sway over me like it used to which I am ok with. If push came to shove, I  would rather be in the shop anyways. I would have been in the shop today but my thumbs ached something fierce today. So I thought it best to give them a rest. If the game doesn't interest me I can search the WWW for an iron and a chipbreaker.

quiet time work
Just finished the sanding with 600 grit. I could have gone further with 800 and 1200 but 600 works for me. It imparts a decent shine and I can't see any scratches so I don't see the need to go further.

LED reflection off 600 grit
the sole
I know that the smoothness of the sole rather than shine, is a big help. A 600 grit smoothness helps the plane to glide rather than hesitate.

autosol shine
This stuff makes the planes shine but it also protects them too. And it lasts for a few months also. I'll be checking on this one to see how long it lasts because it'll be resident in a toolbox for quite a while.

autosol on the sole
I just do the cheeks and the sole.  I haven't tried the autosol on the lever cap yet but I may on the #6 rehab.

Miles's block planes
I knew the  60 1/2 is a bit smaller than the #9 and side by side it pops out. The iron in the #9 measures 1 9/16" wide the the 60 1/2 is 1 3/8" wide. 

about the same length
The #9 has a wider iron and a lot more mass. In spite of the extra mass the #9 weighs 1lb 60oz (.634 kilos) to the 60 1/2 weight of 1lb 3oz (.543 kilos) - a 3oz difference. I was expecting the weight of the #9 to be higher than this.

motors revving and ready to go
L and R shavings
I liked seeing this. Both shavings are the same width and thickness so I don't think the defect I have on the right of the iron matters. The plane didn't skip or stall making the shaving neither.

I'm stowing them in the big till for now - they won't fit in the top ones
the #6 will fit
The saws aren't going to stay in the toolbox. I will be making a separate till for them once I get them all. I have a crosscut and two rip saws so far. The smallest rip saw I have to sharpen but the other two are sharp. I bought a backsaw on thursday and I should have it monday or tuesday at the latest.  I thought of getting the 3 saw LV set (carcass, dovetail, and tenon) but I can't get past the composite construction, even if they are a damn good price. Instead I'll buy wooden handled saws one at a time. I have only to get two more and I have plenty of time to do it.

my 7/8 T&G planes

it's a match
my shrinking collection of T&G planes

I'm going through all my wooden planes and I'm passing on all my extras. I thought I had a few more beading planes but it looks like I already passed them on. Out of the 5 sets of T&G planes only two are usable and the other 3 need work on the irons.

these are my problem planes
One of the worse planes is the second from the bottom on the left. It is a dutch plane I bought for $15 and I can not get it to plane it's profile.

it is a complex molder
The sole of the plane is good, the throat isn't beat up and I don't think the plane got a lot of use. The iron matches the sole good but I haven't been successful making the profile. The best I've been able to do is to make a partial one.  None of these planes will get passed on.

this is a beading iron
from a plane that is an astragal
I've gotten a few molding planes with irons that don't even remotely match the sole profile. This one is on the list for making an iron to match it. Lie Nielsen sells blanks and I should be able to match one up for this.

3 molders I wanted
I think in order to get these 3 planes, I had to bid on a 3 lots of about 20 total planes. Most of them were garbage and only good enough to feed the furnace. Two of these are definite users and one is iffy. The sole is chewed up right behind the mouth but it did plane a profile as is. So maybe I will be able to sharpen the iron and be ok.

I'll come back to this one
The iron is rusty looking and thumping the ass wouldn't loosen the wedge.

these four just need to be sharpened
these are being passed on
All the planes I am passing on are users. I am not giving away crap. These 3 need the irons cleaned up and sharpened but all three planed their respective profiles. All the planes I am passing on planed their profiles. These here on the only ones I didn't sharpen and hone the irons. I boxed up the planes going to a new home and I'll ship them out this week.

the plane from 3 pics above
This is a thumbnail plane for 1/2" stock. I don't see very many planes for thin stock being offered up. This one came with a lot of 6 planes. This made the profile and half way decent shavings considering the iron is rusty looking.

the front of the iron
the back of the iron
I am continually amazed by these old molding planes planing a profile with irons like this in them. I have yet to buy one with a flattened back too. This iron is dull feeling and crappy looking yet it still planed a decent looking profile. I will clean this up and add it to the herd.

brass adjuster knob off the corrugated #6
This is the before grungy, dirty looking pic.

the backside looks even worse
I can reuse the barrel nuts
The slots are usually chewed up on the older planes but these are still clean, straight, and not mangled.

string on the finger
I brushed the parts to remove as much rust as I could and put all the parts in the Evaporust bath. The reminder is so I don't forget the frog pin is in the liquid. Losing that would be a tragedy.

which one is which
The inside of the two #6 planes are identical. The top one is mine and the bottom one is the corrugated sole one.

both soles are flat
I checked them both with my straight edge but the proof of the pudding will come when I put them on the 80 grit runway.
60 grit
Most of the japanning on the heel was gone and this was to remove the rust.  The plan is to sand the interior with 60 grit, clean it with some Simple Green, and then apply stripper.

the after pic of the adjuster knob
The way to go on this is to scrub it with a toothbrush and Bar Keeps. Much more effective than letting it soak in it. I cleaned it first with orange cleaner and I used 220 grit on the inside of the knob.

nice and shiny
There are a couple of grungy spots at the top of the hole that needs attention, but overall, the knob looks great.

my #6
Most of this plane still looks good. I did the rehab on this plane several years ago and it is something to see what I did then and what I do now. I will go nutso and complete what I didn't do then. The knob and tote, the frog and the plane body. Can we say together "oh what fun that will be". And it will be like the old double mint gum commercials because I'm doing two at the same time.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the original title for the song, "Happy Birthday to You"?
answer - Good Morning to All

puttering saturday.....

Sun, 10/15/2017 - 2:13am
Since I get up at oh dark thirty everyday and I am the only who does, I have to be quiet.  My oldest rolled into town on friday so I had another one to contend with. And she likes to sleep in so I really had to hunker down with finding something quiet to do. I started out playing with the 5/8" grooving plane iron, switched to the 60 1/2 block plane, went back to the grooving plane, and gave up on being in the shop. Before I left the shop I had steel wooled the box and put on a few more coats of shellac. I went back upstairs and reconciled my checking account. You can't get anymore quiet then that especially so if you and the bank agree.

the lead off batter
I went back to the shop and flattened the back of this iron again. There was a small thin, dull looking  ribbon right at the edge that I noticed this morning.  So I went back to square one and started flattening it once more again.

I checked the logo on the iron to try and date the plane. The logo on the iron matched up to the one for '1935 to the present'. But that is the iron and not necessarily indicative of the age of the block plane itself.

the top right is low
The left side takes a little dippsy doodle at the corner too but not as large as the right one.

after the 80 grit runway
I got most of the left side removed but there is still a good portion of it left on the right. I can either spend the next two months trying to sand the bevel back or leave it. This is a block plane so I am going to leave it as is for now. The other choice is to grind it straight back past the low spot and then grind a new bevel. Either method involves a lot of work and making the iron shorter. It is something that doesn't have to be done right now. Miles is still trying to get his finger coordination grabbing act together.

dewaxed shellac
I don't mind the clear shellac with all the crap from the bugs still in it. But when I went to Ace Hardware to get some shellac, this is all they had on the shelf. There wasn't an empty spot for the clear shellac, just this one and amber. I took it because I didn't want to drive all the way to Lowes to buy some clear.

I didn't see this until I had sanded the side
I'll have to go slower and pay more attention as I sand. I don't want to remove this.

sharpened the bevel again
Now that most of the bevel is honed and shiny, it is easy to see the hollow at the right corner. What is puzzling to me is that I raised a continuous burr on the back. It was pretty consistent  from one end to the other. I expected the hollow spot not to have a burr. Getting the burr there was a big reason for not grinding this away.

shiny brass to makes my day
I am back from balancing my checkbook, watching a few You Tube videos, and surviving a trip to the PO to mail out the first shipment of molding planes. I cleaned and shined up the thumb knob with Bar Keeps Best Friend and I did it a different way this time.

In the past I let it soak in Bar Keeps with some water for a while. This time I dumped some powder on a piece of paper and grabbed some water and a clean toothbrush. I dipped the toothbrush in the water to wet it, picked up some powder and scrubbed the knob.  It seemed to work better and quicker than letting it soak which never seemed to self clean. With that method I still had to scrub the brass to clean it.

box is almost done
The shellac is making the joint lines in the miters to pop out. That is understandable as I didn't smooth the miter faces after I sawed them. I had already plowed all the grooves and the dado and smoothing them in the donkey ear jig would have made a lot of blowouts on/in them.

put 3 coats here
As I was putting the finish on the box I thought the walnut needed some shine. I put shellac on the bottom rabbet and the walnut banding, on both sides. It perked up the walnut and took away the dull look it had.

didn't effect the fit of the lid
I will leave the lid off the bottom until I get to work on monday. That will give the shellac a little more time to set up and harden.
I think it looks better

It will be hidden most of the time because of the lid being on but once you remove it, you'll see this.


you can file these irons
I got the tip of it filed to fit the tongue iron but the rest it going backwards is off. I still have a lot more filing to do on this. I won't be sanding it to remove metal because the file is 100 times faster.

the fit is a lot better
The wedge shape of the iron pushed out the left side of the groove as I planed it. Over half of the length of the left groove wall separated at the bottom. At least I know I can file this and I should be able to finish this.

found it
I went nutso this morning trying to find this. I wanted to use this to hold the iron and put this in the vise. You really need both hands on the file in order to control it's cutting action.

played with these a little too
I saw these when I found the vise and tried them out. My last outing with them was a disaster. I tore out chunks of wood using them. Today I looked at the grain and used all four of them without one hiccup.  These are old tools that I have seen in Stanley catalogs from around the turn of the last century so they have been around for a while. It was like I had been using them for years.

the frog on the #6 I just got
nothing on the back of the lateral adjust
just STANLEY on the front
According to one study I did this is a type 4. On another study it is a type 5 to 8. The big clue is the lateral adjust. It didn't appear until type 5 and the round disc on it didn't happen until later with the type 6 if I remember right. So on one study it can't be a type 4 as the other puts it as a type 5. Using the second study I think the corrugated sole #6 is a type 5 and my #6 is a type 6.

my lateral adjust
This is one difference between the corrugated sole #6 and my #6. My lateral adjust has a patent date and the other doesn't. The other difference is the brass adjust knob. The corrugated one is blank and mine has a patent date in it. I know the3rd #6 is a WWII vintage one and I really don't care what type it is.

My daughter was leaving today to go back to North Carolina but the plane had issues (leaking water into the cabin) so she came back here. She is supposed to leave tomorrow at the same time. I took this opportunity to stop working and go up upstairs to play with Miles before he took his nap.

not finished
It is kind of finished but I want to raise a shine on the cheeks and sole. I have only gone through 2 grits and I have 4 more to do. It won't happen today though. Miles likes his Playschool toolbox but I think they made the hammer handle too fat for him to grip.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the size of a standard pillow?
answer - 20 x26 inches

new tool for Miles........

Sat, 10/14/2017 - 2:15am
I saw this tool on Jim Bodes's site for a good price and it was what I was looking for so I pulled the trigger. It is a Stanley block plane, the # 60 1/2. I don't know how to type these but it looks to be in good shape regardless. I bought and rehabbed a #9 block plane and this will complete the block plane acquisitions for Miles. In fact I'm done getting planes for him for the foreseeable future. The only plane I think I might snap up is a Stanley 46 if I see a good user for sale.

low angle 60 1/2
I have the LN version of the Stanley #9 which as far as I know, they don't make or sell anymore. I have the LN 102 and 103 (the 103 isn't made or sold anymore too) small non adjustable block planes and of those two I use the low angle 102 95% of the time. It is my favorite. I've been thinking of getting the LN 60 1/2 but so far the LN 102 has been working fine for me.

it has most of it's japanning
Overall this plane is clean looking and has zero dings and scratches no matter where I look. This will be a good complement for the #9 in his toolbox.

the inner parts of the plane look good too
The iron has a lot of life left in it. It should last Miles for quite a while. I will snag any irons that I see just in case.

nice shavings
These are out of the box shavings. The bevel looks and feels sharp but it has a rough scratch pattern across it. I will sharpen and hone it when I rehab it.

the lid fits
It slips on and of easily. It isn't a loose fit and it's maybe a hair shy of snug.

lid flipped 180
If fits this way too. The joint line around the lid changed a little here and there but I got the same fit. On and off with gentle pressure.

how I got the fit
The lid would not fit over the banding. It was hanging somewhere. I could fit the lid cocked like this on one end. It fits over the end and the long sides.

I could repeat it with the lid cocked on the opposite side
It is looking to be that the ends of the walnut banding are longer then the lid.

the problem
I can't see it too well but by the feel I can sense the lid is just short of the outside edge of the banding. I think I'm good on the fit on the long sides so I will start the trim and fit dancing with the ends.

started with sanding
I only did one dance step with this and stopped. I didn't want to gouge the outside lip on the bottom. The one sanding didn't get the lid to fit.

switched to the bullnose plane
After the first trim the lid fit but it was too snug for my liking. I didn't want it loose but I also didn't want a tight snug. It took 2 more trim and fit steps before I got it to my liking. The lid fit (both ways) and came off with a satisfying slight pop and went on with a minimum of pressure.

planed the outside
see the dark line?
The line is from the toe of one miter going pass the other one. I don't like this because they seem to stand out to me like a deer in the headlights. I fixed it with the small block plane by planing the high toe down to the low one.

the LN 102 was too big
I planed the round over only on the outside. I left the inside of the walnut straight. The small violin plane worked perfectly for planing the small round over.

a light sanding and it was done
left the lid as is
The round over helped some with the lid going on so I didn't do anything with the lid. I had thought of putting a small chamfer on the bottom inside of the lip. I didn't do mostly because I didn't want to  chance introducing any slop with lid mating with the bottom.

I'm calling this done
I will put a few coats of shellac on it and I should be able to bring it to work on monday. I will put shellac just on the outside of the box.

the iron bevel isn't 25°
Five strokes on the coarse stone and I'm only hitting a portion of the heel. I stopped here and ran it on the 80 grit runway until I reestablished the bevel at 25°.

forgot to do the back first
The back was pretty flat and I didn't have to spend lot of time raising a shine on it. Of course I had to sharpen the bevel again but I only had to do the fine diamond stone and the 8K japanese one.

the sole is pretty flat
this side looks to be flat
This isn't necessary but I'll do it anyways.  I do like shiny so that is all I'll do on the sides. This is where I stopped. My wife just came home with Miles and the girls and brought pizza.  I think I should be able to get the finish on the rubber band box and get the 60 1/2 rehabbed this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who became vice president after vice president Andrew Johnson became president when Lincoln was assassinated?
answer - no one

it is a type 4/5

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:23am
A Stanley #6 was waiting for me on the dinning room table when I got home. I had seen this plane on the Timeless Tools and Treasures site last week and I had passed on it. Instead a bought a #6 from Patrick Leach's october tool list. It turned out not to be a good plane to give to Miles but this #6 is perfect. It is a type 4/5 and it is less than half the weight of the WWII vintage #6 I got from Patrick. I'll be expending a few calories to rehab it.

Miles's new plane
I think this will be the upper limit that Miles will be able to muscle for a while. Once he gets old enough I'll get him a #7 if he is still interested in woodworking. A quick once over of this plane shows it is in pretty good condition considering it's age. What is surprising is the condition of the front knob and the tote. Both are awfully good looking rosewood without a single dent or chip on them. The plane is grungy looking and shows a fair amount of use but it was also well taken care of.

my #6, type 4/5,  at the forefront
I just remembered that I had gotten my #6 from Jane at Timeless Tools & Treasures too. With the exception of the front knobs being slightly different, they are exactly the same. I didn't bother going nutso my #6 rehab because I use it only for stock prep.

why I had passed on it the first time
The sole on it is corrugated and I'm not a fan of them. However, it had a good price, looked ok, and it was an early type so I got it. It'll be Miles so him and I will get used to it, me before him. Even though I don't like this type of sole, I'll be able to use it and see if I might like it.

Wow
I believe in using as much as possible but this is a frog hair short of nothing. I have never seen an iron used up this much before. I'll have to start the search for another iron. I have a spare that I can put in this plane but that will leave me one short.

road test with a new iron

If I can't find another iron, Ray Iles makes a replacement iron that I can use here. Until then I'll use one my spare irons.
rabbeted box
This is one of two boxes that I made that has a lid detail similar to the one I'm working on now. I made these when I used machines and I didn't know how to do dovetails. All my boxes made in this era were done with rabbeted joinery.


almost 20 years old
I don't remember how I made these two but I do recall it needing two rabbets.

the two rabbets
I remember that the saw cut to separate the lid from the bottom was done on the middle of the two rabbets. I didn't make anymore of these because I wanted to make the one I did now but the inside banding held up that parade along with the miters.


rabbet on the inside of the lid
the other rabbet is on the outside
I think one advantage of this method is there is no mitering and gluing in of the banding. Both of the rabbets were made before the box was glued up.

back to new box
I like this method of doing this. I can put a contrasting wood in the banding. This way also takes a bit more finessing to do because of the miters and their fitting dance steps. I went with yellow glue on this because I planned to play with after an hour or so. That didn't happen because I ended up playing with Miles instead.


I had planned on gluing the banding into the lid rather then the bottom. Changed my mind after I got a comment from Sylvain that it might interfere with the rubber bands being in the bottom.  Makes sense as the lid would be going into the inside of the bottom rather outside it and hitting rubber bands. I think he saved me a bit of potential frustration and it possibly going airborne.

glued until tomorrow
It is taking a wee bit longer than anticipated to finish this.

checking the lid is twist free
miters look good
All four corners are the same with the toe/heels being tight and the seams consistent.


got my one complete shaving
I checked the lid first and hit the high spots. I then ran the plane around the top until I got one shaving from the starting point until I came around back to it.

curiosity satisfied
I did a quick sanding of this corner to see what the miter would look like. It needs a bit more work to even it out. I'll stop here and do the final planing and sanding of the box once I get the lid fitted.

my 5/8" match planes
I'm revisiting these after a bit of a hiatus. The irons don't come together. One of these is too big and I'm going to find out which one it is.

it's not the tongue iron
It is set too deep here but what I am looking at is the inside of the iron and how it fits with the groove in the plane. This fit is ok on the walls of the groove.



the groove plane is very well made
The skate is is great condition and straight as an arrow. There is also a wear plate underneath that is clean and straight too. I would like to get this one working even if it is an off size at 5/8.

the problem
I was thinking about this iron and what was available to craftsmen at this time to thin the width of the iron. I came up with files, stones, or a grinding wheel. I tried using sandpaper and the stones. I also did a quick squaring of the end of the iron.

used 1/2" stock


the tongue is off center which it should be
iron is set too deep
I thought I had the iron set too shallow but that shaving is way too thick.

the groove is too wide
much better groove shaving
pencil line is the depth of the groove
It looks like I have to grind, sand, rub off at least another 16th of an inch. Taking off that much on sandpaper will take a lot of time. I think I'll try a file next and see how that goes. The iron is tapered and I'll have to go back pass my pencil line at a minimum.

my other 3/4" match planes
 They are marked 3/4 but when I measure them I get 11/16 which I think is a weird size for match planes. The standard width stock then was 7/8" so this must be due to wear.

ugly looking T&G
out of square
I thought the out of square groove was due to my planing but it wasn't. The groove iron is kind of square and it isn't the reason the groove is as misshaped as it is. On closer inspection, the iron is twisted. It isn't parallel to the outside walls of the skate. Even a square iron wouldn't make a square bottom groove if it is twisted in the plane.

the tongue looks good so I'll work on the groove iron
stripped down the #6
I think I may do all three of the #6 planes together. I ordered some brass screws for the totes and brass parts for the totes and knobs. Sounds like a fun filled weekend for me. Stopped here because Mile just woke up from his nap.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
A Biblical cubit is 18 inches. How long is a Roman cubit?
answer - 17.5 inches




made lots of progress......

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 1:05am
Picked up a couple more techniques or methods of work tonight.  That brings my total to working on the box to three. There was a certain bit of trepidation doing them because they were new to me. I hadn't done anything like this before and screwing it up would render the box useless. I have never shied away from much and I am a firm believer in trying. I came through it ok and I think I can thank all my previous hand tool work paying off here.

my miter saw
This section of the teeth look to be ok. On the rest of the saw the teeth vary in height. I can see that the teeth have been recently sharpened as they are still shiny and are sharpened for crosscut. That explains some of the rough cuts on the miters. Maybe if I get all the teeth even it will improve the cut. I'll try to sharpen it this weekend.


pit stop at the post office
Made a quick stop at the PO to pick up a couple of boxes. I stole borrowed some packing stuff from my wife and got some planes packed up. I'll ship them on saturday.  I have a few more to pass on but these boxes are too small and the PO was out of big boxes.

out of the clamps
The first thing I look at with miters is how tight is it where the toes and heels come together. A bit ragged out looking here but the toes are tight.

the opposite kitty corner
The nubby looking crappola is dried hide glue. The miter looks pretty good and I'll plane this after I saw it apart.


marked my saw line
This will be my first time sawing a box apart with a hand saw. I've done this before on a tablesaw and have gotten good results. Which type of rip saw should I use? Paul Sellers used a panel saw when he sawed his big box but this one isn't even a tenth of that size.

carcass rip saw
I have a small rip panel saw but I think the box is too small for it. I opted for this because it is smaller and I have better control with it. I started on the top corner and went around the box from there.

done
I strayed off the line in 3 spots but I saw them and was able to correct it.

the lid has some twist
The far left and the near right are high. I knocked those down first and checked it again. I then went around the lid and stopped when I got a continuous shaving.

bottom is twist free
both parts planed
This is the one part of this I wasn't too sure of. Paul Sellers did his box/lid planing in a casual manner while I was sweating bullets that I was planing too much off. The small horizontal divot on the left joint line is where the saw tried to make a errant trip into La La Land.


the backside looks good too
It looks like I was fretting over this for nothing. This only the first time and maybe I got lucky. After I have repeated this several times, I'll consider myself a good beginner.

miters rough sawn to length
I will trim them fit on the donkey ear jig.

tight fit with the miters - time to see if the lid mates
this side slipped on
back side isn't cooperating
The walnut is too wide and I'll have to thin it some. I'll do that after I get the lid to slip on and off.

pulled the lid off and the walnut came with it
Every box I've seen like this has had the inner banding on the bottom. The top does seem to like having it though.

a bit of fussing and I got it to go
I don't have to trim the height of the walnut as much as I thought I would have to. It is a tight fit and it'll take a few trimming and fitting dance steps to get it to fit. I'll have to decide whether to glue the walnut in the bottom or the lid.


got wax on the walnut
I only cleaned the wax on the bottom and not the lid. I cleaned it out of the lid and the walnut so I can glue it in either one now.

got it
I got the lid to fit onto the walnut with it in the bottom. Still a tight fit and much too tight to use as is.

where I left off
I couldn't decide where to glue the walnut, whether to trim the width now, do a round over on the walnut now or after the glue up, or chisel a slight chamfer on the bottom inside of the lid. Miles just woke up from his nap so I shut the lights out and headed upstairs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the longest river in North America?
answer - The Missouri River ( it beats the Mississippi by over 20 miles)

another box......

Wed, 10/11/2017 - 1:14am
My best friend says that I am the box king and I make the same kind of box all the time. However, comma, slant, backslash, and double ditto marks, this box is different. 99.99% of the boxes I do make are dovetailed but this box is mitered. I'm not a fan of miters and I tend to avoid using them. But now that I have a miter box and it cuts a good 45° miter, I may be banging out a boatload of mitered boxes.

I made a mitered box tonight and I made one with a method I have seen many times before. I had thought of making it in the past but I felt it was something beyond my capabilities. That was mostly due to the box being mitered. The other part has to do with how the lid is secured, sans hinges or some other contrivance of that ilk.

my box
I will use this box at work to store my rubber bands in. This drawing is a side view of the one of the box parts and the interior on all four will be same. The box will be sawn apart down the middle of the 5/8" dado separating the box into a lid and a bottom. I will then fit a piece of wood into the bottom half of the dado and extend it up over the top of the lid a 1/4". The lid will now be secured and held in place by that. That is the plan and we'll see how it shakes out.

find a couple pieces of 1/2 stock
I plowed the grooves at the top and bottom and the dado is next. I had been thinking about this during my lunch break and how to best go about making it. The tried and true marking knife, chisel, and router would work but I decided to try something new for me.

marked where the 5/8" dado will go
this isn't carved in stone
The measurement for the dado and the distance down from the top isn't critical. I did them by eye and I was more concerned with the bottom storage being maximized. I also didn't want to make the top too narrow as it will get stressed a bit taking it off and putting it back on.

used the 043 to make the dado
 I plowed the two outside grooves first and then plowed another one down the chunk left in the middle.

last dado done
I removed the bulk of the waste with a chisel and then finished with the router.


two long sides done
I am going to put the box together off the saw. I haven't done any saw cuts at 90° and the 45's  so far appear to be accurate but very rough.

can't forget to mark the dado
Once this is glued up I would have to ask Superman to tell me where the dado is.

all the parts are sawn and I'm ready for a dry fit
wee bit too long
The first dry fit looked ok but I couldn't completely close the miters with hand pressure. I did a couple of plane and check dance steps with the fit  before it closed up. It easy to get the right size for the plywood. It has to end exactly where the groove exits on the 45 slope.

this is ready to glue up
The miters closed up and looked pretty good on this dry fit. I see myself using the miter box a lot more now. One thing I'll be looking at a bit closer is the saw. It feels sharp, cuts easily, and I can feel set in the teeth. But it leaves a very rough cut surface in pine. I haven't tried it in a hardwood yet but I think a touch up sharpening may be in the future.

wax protection
I put some wax at the ends of the dado to help with removing any glue squeeze out that may end up there. On the bottom half I'll be gluing in a piece of wood but not the top. I will clean up the wax with mineral spirits.

glued with hide glue
It appears success with a band clamp is helped by good miters. This is the first time I can recall that I glued something up with these clamps and I didn't cuss up a storm. As I tightened the clamps the box got drawn up on the miters. They did not slip and slide by each other and  they all stayed aligned as I cranked down on the screw.

Tomorrow I'll saw it in two and fit the bottom piece in the dado.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The President of the United States rates a 21 gun salute. How many does the Vice President get?
answer - 19

it was a holiday......

Tue, 10/10/2017 - 1:25am
Over twenty years out of the service and I still don't think like a civilian. I got up this morning at my usual time, got dressed, and I went to work. At 0700 I was wondering why was I the only person working. There should have been at least a few others at that time besides me. Then I looked at my Lie Nielsen calendar and saw that today was Columbus Day. A Federal holiday. Not only won't there be any mail delivery, I didn't have to be at work.

This is the second I have done this. The last time was also Columbus day about 4-5 years ago. Oh well, shit happens. I was up anyways and I couldn't go to the shop because everyone was still sleeping. I'm sure the couple of hours I was there will be turned into comp time and not OT.

let's have a sharpening party
I added two more to this but I didn't finish it all. I still have two LN irons to sharpen. They have been on the bench for a couple of months now awaiting their turn on the stones.

first one I did
I do free hand sharpening but I try to minimize that. This had to be done that way and it had a high  angle on the bevel - I'm guessing greater than 30°. I sharpened a new partial bevel around 25° and it will be a while before I get the whole of bevel at that. The important thing is the angle on the iron matched the mouth.

some of the output
The other molding plane is the center bead I bought last week and it is now shiny, sharp, and ready to road test.

Instead of sharpening the irons in the planes and putting them back, I cycled them. I took the spares I had and put them in the planes. I sharpened the irons I took out of them and put them in the drawer.

the last of them
I am going to have to work some on my bench chisels.  The whole herd will need to be sharpened soon. I would have done it today but my fingers said that this was enough. At this point here I still had to strop all of these to be 100% done.

polishing the cheeks and sole is dead last
Not only does the autosol shine things up, it protects the metal too.  Months after polishing the planes they will still look pretty decent. The 5 1/2 and 4 1/2 are my go to planes and I keep them out on the bench all the time. They will show wear and tear but they will also look pretty good considering the use they get.

made my center bead
Sharp does fix a lot of problems. I think this will work well for an upcoming project I have in the works.

making another bead
I used my forefinger as a fence to guide the plane for this first part. I did a short run and made some tracks at the end of the board.

tracks end to end
I place the plane at the rear of the first set of tracks I made and extended them another couple of inches. I kept doing this backwards dance step until I had made the tracks from the left side to the right. Once I had that I used them to make the whole profile.

I'm not sure if this is the correct way to do this but it worked. The other way to do this is to use a fence nailed or clamped to the stock. The more I do handwork, the more I understand that my hands and eyes are a powerful combination that are capable of a lot of things.

it looked straight
The left side is 9/16" from the edge and the right end is a frog hair over 9/16". I think this is more than acceptable considering it was done strictly with my hands and eyes guiding me.

the unclogger
My first center bead took a bit of oomph to do. Then I realized that the mouth was clogged and that is why the profile stopped being developed. On the other center beads I did, I kept the shavings clear of the mouth by using this after each end to end run.

I need lots more practice here
This 1/2" rabbet plane (skewed iron) is going to take a while to master. I made 6 practice runs on the long grain edge and had 6 failures. I got a rabbet started on the front and exit, but the middle I hardly planed anything at all. I'm not sure if it was the board had a hump, the plane sole isn't flat, or the fault of the operator. Or maybe a combination of all three. When I first got this I planed a rabbet with it out of the box with no problems. So I'm leaning towards the operator being OTL(out to lunch) here.

a pair of #8 H/Rs
I was going to buy an individual harlequin set of H/Rs but I may reverse myself on this. I want to get the even numbers from 4 to 12. These two cost me $90 and that buying that set will run $450. Jim Bode had a harlequin set of 1-18 for $295. I should have, could have, would have, but didn't buy them.

a little bit of pitting on round iron
I didn't want to flatten and polish this out now but I hope it does when the time comes. That pitting is right on the edge which will make this useless.

1/8" beading plane
 I bought this to complete my collection of beaders. I used it once and made a bead and the second time I got nothing. When I looked at the iron, the round part of the bead looked to be almost gone. I tried to file a new round in the iron with a miniature round file and I think I was successful with that.  I wasn't sure if the file would work on the iron but it did. It took me a few tries but I think I got it.

Not too too bad for my first attempt at this
The top bead is the one that the plane was making before I tried to file the iron. The one on the bottom is after the 3rd time I filed the iron. Not perfect but much improved and I have to work on the bead circle to remove the line on the outside edge.

decided to play with my 3/4" T/G (match) planes
 One thing I should have done first was to scrap the paint off the face of the board. I got paint on the plane that I'll have to remove. I also think that thin layer of paint caused some problems when I plowed the groove and the tongue.

groove was easy, the tongue was a bitch to do
If either of these planes gets tilted off of 90, even a couple of degrees, the plane stalled. The tongue plane stalled so bad I couldn't push it. I had push it backwards and lift it off and restart.  I did better with the groove plane I think because of my use with the plow plane. Initially I had the iron set too deep and fix for that is easy - bring it up some.

joint line isn't aligned
back side is off set too
Flipping the board to the other face made the alignment worse.

scraped the paint and made another set
This helped as the second run was a bit easier. However, the tilting problem was still evident and the plane jammed on me twice doing the tongue.

groove done - still a bit too heavy on the depth of the iron by the thickness of the shavings
better alignment  on the reference faces
I made 5 sets of T/Gs and I used the same two boards for all of them. I just kept cutting off the T/G and doing a new set. This second run had the best alignment of the 5.

another hiccup
The tongue is too long or the groove is too shallow. Since both planes bottomed out after making their half of the joint, it's a coin toss.

the tongue and groove looks ok here
I planed the tongue down and the two came together with one flat face. Not aligned well, but one flat face.

hiding the misalignment
I planed a bevel on the left one and a 1/4" astragal on the right. I think if the astragal was larger it would look better but you get the idea. These are the same boards from above after I planed the tongue.

plane I used to make the bevel
I have no idea what the original purpose of this plane was. Whatever it was, it is well made and boxed in the high wear area. It will plane varying width bevels with the grain. Against the grain it tears out like crazy.

might as well play with the 1/2" T/G
I also have a 3/8, 5/8, and 7/8 sets of T/G. The three of them all have a problem with one of the irons in each of them rendering them useless. This 1/2" set appears to have a good set of T/G irons.

misaligned and the tongue fits snug in the groove
just as bad if one board is flipped
1/2" thick board and the tongue is off center
I am still doing good on plowing the grooves
1/2" irons
The groove iron is wider than the slot in the tongue iron. I went into buying up T/G planes with a wild look in my eyes and I never did much with them. The 3/4" match set is the best one I bought and they are proving to be a bit on the finicky side to use. And I have yet to use any of them on a project.

the 3/4" T/G irons
The tongue iron fits in the groove iron. The tongue appears to be a good fit in the tongue plane and the same for the groove plane. But somehow I have nagging feeling that all is not well in Disneyland here. I can't put my finger on it but maybe with some time using my other molding planes I'll figure it out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a footling compliant?
answer - one that is trivial and irritating




2 more done.......

Mon, 10/09/2017 - 1:03am
I had my doubts on putting one of the projects in the done column but I was able to put a check mark there. I got another piddly project knocked out and that one was a PITA due to it's small size. Still haven't decided on what is next and it is hard to decide. Miles will be here by the time this gets posted so I'll have other things to occupy the brain bucket. I'm sure I'll think of or stumble into something eventually.

When it came to upload the pics for this post I got a big surprise. I thought I had taken maybe 20-25 pics total. How about 88 that I trimmed to 72 and shaved again to 65. So this will be another pictorial post with a sparsity of verbiage.

out of the clamps - adding cross braces to stiffen the dolly
using big ass dividers to layout the braces - just like pins and tails
step off both ways and I have the position of the braces marked
flushed the joints top and bottom
I had made knife marks on the inside of the frame for the bracing before I flushed the dolly top and bottom.

about a 1/4" overhang on all 4 sides
stops at the corners
or one long one on each side in the middle
sneak preview of the donkeys being used
flushing the dowels
sawing most of the proud off first
The offset saw in the pic I bought it in late 70's. It was sold as a dovetail saw and that is why I bought it. It didn't help me to do dovetails and I've used it as a flush cutting saw every since.

it is 72°F / 22°C in the shop
It is warm and muggy here in RI. It is supposed to stay this way until wednesday night. I had been in the shop over an hour doing quiet work and I had soaked my T-shirt already.

last of the clean up is the inside of the feet
lot of shrinkage
All of the mortise and tenons for the bearers/stretchers were snug and a week later I got this. This one has the biggest gap.

99% glamour shot - need to do a few more things to be 100%

arrises need to be knocked down and two spacers made
why I made them this way
I anticipate using these to saw wood on for breaking down stock.That is why I left the uprights above the bearers. It is a built stop for the stock to butt up against.

why I need spacers
If I want to lay out multiple boards on these I can't do it. A spacer between on the top bearer will allow that.

I can get both spacers out of this one 2x4
plenty of room for the saw blade to rip out two equal spacers
the one hiccup on my bridle joints
Don't know how I managed to do this. I usually put the taper on the outboard edge.

flushing the proud on the ends of the bridle joints
which way to go with the braces - stopped dadoes or straight through
opted for stopped dadoes
I went this way so the braces won't be in a through dado and seen at the front. I think that a stopped dado not only looks cleaner, it will be stronger too.

first half done
Marked for the other side, chiseled it down and flattened it with a router.

casters aren't impeded at all
marked the length and dry fitted them
sawed an angle a frog hair above the depth of the dado
glued the braces with hide glue
I let them set up for a couple of hours and then I put one screw in from the top down into each end of the braces.

spacers cut to length - didn't go nutso here and get a friction fit as there was no need for that

second time I've used these in over 20 years
All I can say is I hate dowels and I don't like using them. But in this situation they were a good choice. I drilled two 1/2" holes in the spacers, put dowel centers in the holes, and marked the bearers and the stretchers.

holes transferred
I wanted to use a guide to help me drill the holes square but I was screwed on the stretcher. My 1/2 drill is way too big to fit between the bearer and the stretcher. I had to use a smaller, step down shank 1/2" drill bit and do it free hand. Did I mention I dislike dowels? There is absolutely no room for error using them. And I wasn't error free today with them.

lines up ok on the first one
second one is off and it won't go together
the only one that fits and it is a tight fit - I had to pry it off with a putt knife
I will have to think of a fix for this. It may take a while because I don't have a lot of experience with doweling.

removed the button feet from the bottom
going with this setup - the miters won't be closed

I like the open miters better then this butt joint
first use of the saw donkeys - the dolly fits
pried them off, put on some glue, and put them back down
caster positioning
I wanted these close to the edge but not so close that I risked splitting the wood driving the screws home. I also didn't want the screws to be close to the bottom of the slot mortise. After playing with it a bit this is what gave me a happy face.

done - rolls freely and it feels stiff and strong
it's new home
I got lucky with this because I didn't check it before hand. Thanx to Bob D for the comment that prompted this.

fixing the dowels with my rasp
After thinking of making dutchmen, filling holes, and redoing all these dance steps again, I thought of this. This is a spacer and there is nothing critical about the fit of the dowels. The spacer's function is to sit on top of the bearer. So the idea is to shave one pin until it fit in the holes.

I tried to keep the shave job on the right 180° of the dowel
they fit - easy on and easy off but they aren't interchangeable
where I expect the spacers to live most of the time
the home for the new saw donkeys - I may put some shellac on them later on
building up my supply of glue sticks
I prefer the thinner stick on the left
you can split them which is quick
there is a lot of waste this way - I saw the wide ones in half
where I want to keep my marking knives
they need a box so they don't rattle around in the drawer
This was left over from something ?????. I split it into two pieces and it already had the 1/8" groove in it.

I'm making the box right off the miter box
1/8" plywood bottom marked out
very easy to saw this plywood
the left piece is waste but in case I mess up, one saw cut and it will be ready to go
dry fit - glued it up and let it set up for an hour
my record 53 vise might be the next project
thinned the box sides - got rid of the clunky look it had
made a holder for the japanese marking knife
Working on this was a pain in the arse. The biggest headache was I didn't have a chisel or iron thin enough to make a groove to fit the knife. I had to make a rabbet in a thin piece of wood and then glue two pieces of wood to that.

done -quick project and my knives are safe
Time to shut the lights out. Miles should be here shortly and I am sure he is excited about seeing his toolbox.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the game of checkers called in England?
answer - draughts

one more day to go......

Sun, 10/08/2017 - 2:58am
Most of my saturday was spent cleaning up. Having a messy shop doesn't bother me too much. And I don't get the heebie jeebies like Felix Unger would. What does bother me is the mess swallowing up tools and it not belching them back up. I have lost a few tools in the past and one thing I tend to be anal about is picking tools up and putting them away. During my clean up today I found a ruler I had misplaced a few weeks ago. I'm glad I found it because I was going to order another one today.

My grandson Miles is coming tomorrow with his mother and will be spending the week with us. I will definitely be showing him his toolbox and what tools I have gathered for his herd so far. I don't know what time their flight is coming in and I am going to try and get the dolly done before they get here.

I might be brain dead right here
It was bugging me that I would have two empty holes in the tenon and a third one that was full. I decided to try and reuse the existing two holes. I marked the tenon holes on the foot and drilled them out slightly above the pencil marks. I should have drilled the holes towards the bottom. I would have gotten the same pulling of the tenon down tight on the shoulder.

double triple checked I had good pencil points.
the front
There wasn't much offset between the tenon and the mortise holes. Most the strength of this M/T will be coming from the glue bond. I got a good, snug fit with the cheeks and the mortise walls that should provide a good glue surface. The pins certainly helped some and they did the pull the tenon down.

much joy
The left pin pulled the tenon more than the right one. The important thing is that they both came out the holes in the back. I don't have to wait now to glue the stretcher and bearer on.

second donkey glued up
I did the foot M/T, the stretcher, and bearer all with hide glue. I will leave this glued up until tomorrow. I still have to put miller dowels in before I can call these done.

time to hold field day
For all you land lubbers, field day is clean up time.

what 4 LED lamp boxes look like broke down for the recycling bin
bench area cleaned up - still needs to be stowed
machine side of the shop done
I only filled the shit can up about 3/4. I bandsawed a lot of small pieces of wood and expected to overflow it but I didn't. I didn't do a reorganization and concentrated mostly on cleaning and sweeping and it still took me almost 3 hours.

going to a new home
I have a lot of molding planes and most are extras or ones I don't want. With auctions you bid on a lot of planes that may have ten or more planes to get only one that you want. That is why I have so many of them. I am passing some of them on to reader of my dribble.  Unfortunately for  me (and him) I threw away all the packing crappola I had accumulated just before I decided to do this. So I'll be passing on few now and more later.

glue stick stock
Small scraps that I can't use for something else, I cut up into thin strips and make gluing sticks out of them. I used to be a die hard, I'll never give up my glue brushes, gluing type of a guy but I feel the same way about the glue sticks now.

my mortise jig - the knife line shows how much has to go
I'm keeping the #6
I got a comment about using the #6 as a shooting board plane. That was something I hadn't thought of and the extra weight and mass of this #6 will be a definite asset as a shooting board plane.

shop cleaned up and I started on the dolly
I was able to get three of the pieces for the dolly out of one board. I joined the corners with a bridle joint. I'll do the slot mortise on the tablesaw and the tenon with hand tools.

four pieces rough sawn

I squared up one end, marked for the length, sawed it, and squared up that end.

three cuts to complete it
I have blade stabilizers on the tablesaw and that restricts the height of the blade. I can only raise it 2 1/2" so that is the width I used. I lost an inch and I could of taken the stabilizers off but doing that is a HUGE PITA.

laid out the tenons
I did better sawing the tenons this time. I tried to keep the saw square, vertical, etc etc etc. The saw cut improved but still not in the 'fit off the saw' neighborhood. I think it'll be a while before I can afford the rent there.

trimming the tenons
I used a scrap piece on the right so I could use the router right out to end of the tenon. Without the 'bridge', no matter how much I concentrated on keeping downward pressure on the 'right' knob, I still ended up with tapered tenons. All four of these came out straight and flat.

checking for square
I have the dolly dry clamped and I checked for square with these. Because of the clamps I  couldn't take it out clamped and secured, so I marked it with a pencil.

checking the opposite diagonal
With these sticks when you check the opposite diagonal you have to rotate them 180 to get the 45's on the ends to go into the corner. The clamps pulled the dolly square but it was nice to have confirmation too.

glued and cooking
I am very happy with the fit of the bridle joints. I had to tap it together dry with  mallet but the hide glue provided some lubrication and I was able to push the joints together with my hands. The quick grips are just insurance at the corners.

Miles's rip saw
I got the saw back today and it looks great. Bob for Logan's Cabinet Shop filed it for rip from a crosscut.

99% of the kink is gone
Bob said that he didn't have to hammer the kink and got most it removed. I don't know how he did it but this is pretty darn straight. I'll take it apart and clean the plate and the tote. No rush on that and I'll put it on the B list.

saw has a good feeling with the hang and it sawed pretty good too
trimmed the bottom of the slot mortise too much
I'll plane this flush and repeat it on the other 3 corners. It looks like I was consistent in trimming all the bottoms too much.

A good day in the shop. Got the second saw donkey glued up, cleaned the shop, found my lost ruler, and glued up the dolly. Now I can start thinking of what the next project will be.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does carceral mean?
answer -  relating to a jail or prison (try working that into a conversation)

replacement foot done.......

Sat, 10/07/2017 - 12:35am
I didn't get to the glue up of the new foot tonight. My wife said we were going out to eat tonight. I had gotten these marching orders before lunch this morning so I knew I would have to hustle in the shop tonight. I was able to finish fitting the tenon to the mortise and bandsaw and clean up the  foot details. Barring any mind farts, I should be able to get this glued up and start on the dolly for Miles's toolbox.

trimmed the ends
I got the R/L ends trimmed to fit the mortise. I did pretty good on getting the ends square this time. They aren't a perfect 90° but they aren't slanted this time. I still have a bit of work to do on the thickness of the tenon to get it to fit the mortise.

trimming the mortise to fit the tenon
My mortise jig is a bit too long and I need to trim it back a bit. I watched Paul Sellers video on M/T and he sawed his at 1 1/2". Mine is over twice that (the part the chisel is resting on). It is too long because the chisel doesn't have a sufficient length to even trim 1/2 way into the mortise before it hits the ferrule.

the tenon I glued veneer to both cheeks
I didn't want to use router on this because of the veneer. If I removed the veneer I would have dried glue on the cheek to try and glue again on. Or worse, I would make the tenon too thin again. That is why I trimmed the mortise to fit the tenon. But it is much easier trimming the tenon to fit.

had to tap it home with a mallet
I got a good fit but it is too tight to glue up this way. I did some more trimming of the mortise with a tenon rasp to make some room for the glue.

inside look
Very good fit on the cheeks and better on the ends. They are a teeny bit gappy but a big improvement over the first ones I did.

this will going up for sale now
Now that I can chop mortises by hand, this mortiser is no longer needed. I did think of using it during the saw donkey build. In my mind I was using it as a fall back crutch. It was especially strong when I saw my first crappy end cuts but I resisted. Getting rid of the machine will remove the urge to use it.

my brown knot
doesn't go all the way through to the other side
In fact the knot doesn't even make it to the inside of the mortise. It is tight and appears to be sound. There isn't anyplace for the glue to seep into so I'll forgo it for now.


drilling my rounds on the bottom of the foot
I didn't forget
I marked the left end and flipped it over and marked the right end. I shouldn't have problems bandsawing the details out.

oops
 I drilled the round out wrong. I drilled on the layout line and I should have shifted it inboard a 1/2" so the outside of the bit was on the layout line. 

foot is done
It is ready to glue the upright into the foot. I'm wavering on whether or not to draw bore it. I think I might only because I won't have to clamp it and wait.

Time to go enjoy fish 'n chips for dinner.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What did Father Edward Flanagan found on December 12th, 1917?
answer - Boys Town Orphanage

blogger bit me on the butt again.......

Fri, 10/06/2017 - 1:15am

During my lunchtime I like to read and answer any comments. I was doing that today when I noticed that I had missed a grammatical mistake in one of my responses. No big deal I thought, I would delete my comment, correct it, and post it again. What I had forgotten is you can't (or at least I can't) delete a comment once it has been posted (by me or someone else). Doing so freezes comments for me. The comments counter continually cycles in a circle. I can't access them to read them or to post any. I haven't tried posting readers comments after this has happened because I am not sure what will happen to them. The black hole of the blogger is stronger than any black hole in the universe.


I had 4 comments left that I didn't get to answer that I'll do in my blog. I was trying to fix my comment to Bob Demers comment when things went south on me on the midnight express. Paraphrasing what Bob said - I should get the draw bore pins from Lee Valley.


My answer to Bob was
Bob,
you're talking to a stubborn old fart. I don't see the need for the draw bore pins. To my thinking they would not help and would elongate the holes reducing the effect of the pins pulling it tight.  LV does have the best price on them I've seen anywhere. Besides these are something I don't see written about nor do I see a lot of pics of them.


I had this comment because I did a copy but no joy getting to a paste it. What I don't have is Bob's posted comment. I can't see any of the comments and responses to this blog post.


Ralph, my experience has been that you want to sharpen pins to a small tip almost like a pencil such that the tip of the pin will hit inside the offset hole and then also inside the back hole. This makes pins required to be about 50% longer so that you can cut off the pointed tip entirely on

I agree with you on the pin points. Unfortunately I beat the snot out of that pin driving it out. I couldn't tell what the point of it looked like. I will make sure that the next ones will have a longer point.

I think you're right. I've had good luck using longer, more gradually tapered pegs. For complicated stuff that needs to sit square on the floor, it's nice to be able to fit all the pegs in loosely and then walk around the piece smacking them tighter.

Hi Paul,
I plan on doing something along the same lines. Thinking out loud, I would think there has to be balance here between the long, tapered point, and it being strong enough to not break or split as you pound it through.

Hi Ralph, Perhaps longer pins with long tapers would let the pin thread through all 3 holes before the pounding starts. I asked the other day about the hole offsets and didn't ask clearly. What difference do you use between the mortise hole to shoulder distance and the tenon hole to shoulder distance? Looks like you could benefit from a modern boiler. You could save a lot of energy and open up your shop floor. Kill two birds with one stone. My neighbor has a modern boiler vs. my 1992 model and he spends less than a third what I do during the heating season. Similar houses. 

Steve D
Hi Steve,
I did miss what you asked. I didn't measure how much I offset the dimple from the drill bit mark. I made it above the 'outside circle' made by the drill bit. If I had to guess, I would say maybe it was a 16th and no more.
I've thought about replacing the boiler but I'm sticking with what I got for now. It will still heat the house even if I lose power. It doesn't have the current loss of power cutout that furnaces today have. Another problem is removing the asbestos on the furnace and piping. My last estimate about 8-10 years ago was $3500. No plumber will replace the boiler because of it.


These are the comments I couldn't answer and I don't know the status of the ones I did. Another blogger quirk that I can't seem to remember. Has anyone else that uses this platform have this particular problem?  I started a Word Press blog but I like the simplicity of this blogger. Besides I don't know how to migrate all my posts from blogger to Word Press. I have a lot of keyboard diarrhea to move from one to the other.

the foot is twist free and ready to mortise
 But before I got to that I have another tool for Miles tool box.

wartime #6
mine #6 on the right
My #6 is a type 5 if I remember and look at how thin it's casting is compared the other one. That isn't all, the new plane weighs a ton. There is no way that Miles can use it. It'll probably have a few pounds on him until he is old enough to vote.

the plane in action
The iron looks like it was sharpened on a belt sander but it is sharp. It had no problems planing this DF against the grain. It is a wee bit heavy to push even for me. So I don't think I'll be doing the #6 swap with Miles. I'll have to look around for an earlier #6.


my #7 and a unwanted #6 now
My #7 weighs less than the #6. After this weight comparison I know there is no way that Miles will be able to use this. I don't like returning things I have bought so I will rehab it and sell it.

transferring lines
I am bringing the bottom and top of the bearer and stretcher onto the outside face of the upright.

no hiccups encountered
I got all 8 of them glued in with hide glue. I will do the final flushing and clean up tomorrow.

sometimes you get lucky
The mortise gauge was still set from the first round of mortise and tenon layout. I transferred my mortise lines onto the bottom with a square and my marking knife. I need this one to be as accurate as I could do it. On the first round I used a square and a pencil.

I didn't get lucky with this
 The relief on the bottom is 1/2" and a 1/2" up from the bottom doesn't even make it to the 1/2 way point of the knot. I will glue it from both sides with super glue and hope for the best when I saw it.

the end cuts
When I did the end cuts on the mortises the first time I did them with me in line with the chisel. I was facing the front of the chisel as I did the end cuts. That gave me a good R/L 90° but not the critical F/B 90°. This time I did it this way so I could better judge chopping at 90°.

self supporting
It is too snug to drive home but this is something I will creep up on very slowly. This mortise and tenon is going to have to fit like Paul Sellers did it. I can't use two draw bore pins on this. I can only use one in the middle, between the two I already did. The rest of the strength has to come from a good fit and glue.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does sic mean?
answer - it is Latin for thus or just as   It is usually used in brackets after a quote or copied word(s) to show that it is exactly quoted/copied from the original


I think know why.......

Thu, 10/05/2017 - 1:29am
I had been thinking on and off all day trying to figure out what went wrong with driving the last pin on the saw donkey draw boring. From the consensus, the culprit is I put the pins too close to the joint line. I'll admit I don't have a lot of time on the pond (navy talk for experience) but I have put these even closer without this happening. I had also just done 7 of these, all the same, without any hiccups. I think I may have found out the why tonight.


let there be more light first
I have no more fluorescents on this side of the shop anymore.  These two LED lights throw an incredible amount of light. Way more than the 3 tubes in two fluorescent lights here ever did (one lamp in one fixture wouldn't work). I installed the lights with the intent of cutting up the boxes and putting them in the trash. I got the lights installed and I neatly stacked the empty boxes for next week's garbage.

the before pic
 This has always been a dark spot and it is at the bottom of the stairs on the right.

WOW
I am so happy I could wet myself. My entire shop is flooded with light and it gets into every single nook and cranny too. I'm pretty sure all the crickets will be packing their bags and headed for greener pastures now.

the why (the pin went in from the front to the rear)
It's a bit hard to see, but there is a track/groove made by the pin here. It missed the offset tenon hole entirely and rode up and out at a steep angle at the joint line.


a bit of a knot
This is the what happened and not the answer for why it happened. I think it had something to do with the point on the end of pin. It obviously missed the hole in the tenon, hit this knot, and went up and out into La-La  land.

see the track above the hole in the front left hole at the back
After looking at everything here, I'm sure that one, I didn't have a small enough point on the pin, and two, I missed the offset hole.  I had looked at the holes before I put the pins in and I saw the offset in them.  When I do the draw bore on the new foot/upright, I will double triple check the holes. I will also make sure there is a longer small point that will catch the offset hole.

dry fit of the first set of donkeys
I think I waited a bit too long for the glue up. What was a snug fit a few days ago, now is loose. The snugness is gone but it is still a good fit.

used hide glue
miller dowels
Tomorrow I'll put two of these into each end of the bearer and the stretcher.

new foot stock
The pickings are a bit on the slim side. The one on the far left is what I'm going to use. The other two have some large beneath the surface knots that I don't like. I can avoid them on the ends and the mortise but I don't want to chance using them. The far left one has several small pin knots and one brown one that I think I can cut out when I do the bottom relief cut on the foot.

rough cut to length
I sawed it to rough length and width and it will sticker until tomorrow.  I'll get to practice my ends cuts on a mortise sooner than I expected.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many women have been awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor?
answer - only one, Dr. Mary Edward Walker, for her service in the American Civil War

errands after work.......

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 1:05am
The errands I did tonight weren't planned. My errand night is usually wednesday and tonight I also made a stop I wouldn't do a wednesday. All of this was because of a comment I got from Steve D.  He had gone to an Ocean State Job Lot in Conn but they didn't have any LED lights. I went back forth about getting 3 more tonight on the drive home.

I decided to stop and get them after I noticed that the truck was sucking gasoline fumes. I also had to make a grocery store stop so I decided to add the lights to list of things to do. I'm glad I did because there were only 5 left when I got there. When I left there were only two and the manager said that these were the last of them. Traffic wasn't too bad and I survived but my shop time was almost nothing tonight.

I guess nobody else knew abut these
I am done getting LED lights for the shop. The fluorescents I took down I'll put on the curb for whoever wants them. I will keep one to put in the boneyard. I'll put two of these up tomorrow. The third one I will have to install an outlet for. Where I want to put it will be too far for the cord to piggy back off another light.

not a lot of time tonight
I got the holes drilled for the pins in the second set of donkeys.

making four more pins
I chiseled a sort of a point on the bottom. It has to be small enough to fit in the first hole I'll drive it through.

3/8" hole is first

Beat it through the hole with a hammer. It's a great way to release frustrations and get a pin in the end.

it does a great job
need a helper
They pins don't pass completely through (usually) on the first try.

final pass through the 5/16" hole
I was knocking the point down with a chisel after each hole and I thought why? I made it small enough to fit in the 5/16" hole from the start and I did all four this way.

last one

ready to draw bore the first one
A friend at work asked how did I drive the pins through with it laying flat on the bench?

did it over a hole in wagon vise
pulled it tight and squeezed out some glue
disaster struck
I heard an ugly cracking noise and knew I wasn't going to see happy things.  I tried to drive the pins out and that made the crack open more. I was able to eventually get the foot off.


the foot is toast
I will have to make another foot but I intend to reuse the upright. Making a new upright would be a lot more work than making a new foot. Especially trying to chop the mortises for the bearer and the stretcher to line up with it's mate. I'll start the new foot tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Time's magazine second man of the year?
answer - Walter Chrysler in 1928


draw boring......

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 1:16am
It was cold this morning when I left for work. It wasn't the 45°F forecasted but a toasty 50°F which necessitated me wearing a light jacket. No problem with that as it is that time of the year. The temp when I left work to come home was 75°F. Did I remember to take my jacket with me? Nay, nay, I say moose breath. I left it hanging on the hook which means I either go to work tomorrow without a jacket or risk having my only two jackets left at work. The temp tomorrow is supposed to be higher than today's was. I'll see how cool it is tomorrow morning and decide then.

step one of making the draw bore pins
I found a piece of scrap oak about 3/8" thick that I sawed the pin stock from. I was hoping to get two pins from each piece.

I got lucky
I was able to rive each piece into two. All of them came out pretty straight and none of them wandered.

3/8 hole first then the 5/16 one
I picked the size of the pin strictly by eye. 1/4" looked too thin and 3/8 too wide so that left 5/16".

I need 8 and I made 12
I like having a few extras. You never what will happen when it comes time to put it together. Looking around for an extra pin because you dropped one and it rolled to parts unknown and the glue is dripping out of the hole.....

just got an ugly sinking feeling
These pins are too small. They look long enough but they aren't.

new pin stock
I only had one pin come out like this. All the rest are like the first short ones I did. I have eleven I can use to make new pins with. (I need 8)


tenon is too long
I marked the tenon and sawed it off on the inboard side of the pencil line. That way it will be a frog hair or two less then the length of the mortise depth.

first holes drilled for draw boring


why the first pins were too short
Because the holes in the mortise and tenon are offset, having a quasi pencil point on the entry end helps a lot. It allows the pin to get into the offset hole and then slide by it as it pulls the tenon down as you drive it all the way through. The short pin would have done that but I wouldn't have had a sufficient amount of the pin sticking out on both sides of the foot. The pencil end side hole would not have been fully closed because of the point on it.

split
I noticed this after I completed the mortises for the top bearer and the stretcher. I filled it with my gel glue and maybe that will stop it from spreading. I doubt it but it's worth a try.

front side
I didn't want to put the pins in line because of the grain direction on the foot. It would put a lot stress on that and maybe cause it to split. Putting them close to the shoulder would help pull the tenon down tight but I also wanted some meat between the shoulder and the top of the mortise too. I think that this was a good compromise.

the back side
show first and then tell how
I put this spacer in here to stop drill blowout.

marked the drill point on the tenon
used an awl to make a dimple above the drill point
drilled on my dimples
driving the pins home
I got glue on the tenon and some in the mortise. I could see the offset between the two holes. I put the pins in the holes and tapped them until I felt resistance. I didn't drive one pin all the way home and the do the other. I drove them home equally, a few taps on one and then a few taps on the other. I kept at this until the pins were proud on this side about a 1/4".

sawed the pins
 I will trim these flush tomorrow. I could probably do it now but I want to wait and give the glue a chance to set first.

bought a new molding plane
This is a center bead plane. I have a project stewing that I want to make a pilaster with beads on it. If I don't use it on that I'm sure I can find another use for it.

no fence
This needs something to run against to keep it straight. With a fence,  I could use this right and left handed. That would make planing with the grain easy.

look at how tight that boxing is
I did pretty good considering I didn't use a fence
I didn't get a nice bead like Josh did but I will play with it some more and get it to produce.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the oldest US  State Capitol in continuous use located?
answer - Annapolis, Maryland (since 1772)

I got side tracked.......

Mon, 10/02/2017 - 1:13am
When I woke up this morning, the heat was on. It is October 1st and for the first time I can remember, the heat kicked in this early. I shut it off because the water in the boiler was low. I hadn't gotten around to prepping the furnace for the upcoming heating season yet. Maybe it's a good thing I caught this as the temps tonight are supposed to dip down into middle 40'sF (7°C). And I'm not alone with the swings in the temps as a few others have commented on it too.

The weirdness continues with the daytime temps. Tomorrow temps will be in the high 60's F (20ish C) and tuesday it will climb to 74°F (23° C). As long as it cycles like this I don't care. As long as I am still working, I don't want it to snow. The cold I can handle, but snow sucks. Especially on work days.

this prompted a change
This is another annoying trait of these 4x4 donkeys. They rock like crazy and it is very hard to find a spot on the deck that these feet will lay flat on. I could kind of fix that by gluing a pad on the ends and I might do that if I remember it. On the new saw donkeys I am going to saw a relief.

step one
 Clamp two feet together using the marked detail to ensure the bottoms of each are touching.  Mark where the start of the hole will be. I used the inboard start of circle on the tops for mine.

drill your hole
 I am going for a 1/2" so I'm using a 1" forstner bit. The point of the bit in right on the joint line.


drill a through hole
mark a line from the top of one semi-circle to the other and saw it out
all the details sawn out
I'm starting the clean up with the uprights. I am going to do the majority of the cleanup with the two of them clamped together. The final smoothing and finessing I'll do individually.

most of the shaping was done with this rasp
followed by this finger sander
These are great little sanders. The sandpaper is hook & loop and it lasts forever seemingly. The yellow holder is soft and squishy and will conform to bumps and hollows. My fingers still hurt after using this but nowhere like they hurt when I hold the sandpaper with my fingers.

The small circular flare outs on the sides I cleaned up with 60/150/220 grit wrapped around a 5/16" dowel.

I have three grits 80,120, and 220
drawer for the sandpaper
the big boy
I liked the small ones so much I got the big one too. It only has one holder and it is H&L too. It comes with the same 3 grits also (as far as I know). I got the both of these at Lowes and if my memory is still intact, I think they are made by Shopsmith(?).

worked on the feet in pairs too
 I started at the top and worked down to the bottom. The angle at the very bottom I did in the vise with a block plane.



the other end needs more work
When I laid these out I did it on the same side but when it came time to bandsaw them I got a hiccup. I could the do the left side but on the right side I had to flip it over but I hadn't marked that side. My bandsaw has a 14" throat and the legs are 21".  Corrected that and now I have to even out these two with the inboard one being proud.

japanese straight line rasp
The Auriou rasp isn't meant for hogging this much wood off so I tried the japansese one. I got nowhere trying to remove wood from the high foot with this rasp.. It would not bite at all no matter how I held or pushed it. Swearing and threatening it did nothing neither.


this one worked
This is a very rough rasp and it will hog off a lot of wood in a hurry.

downside of this rasp
Using this on DF isn't helping the home team because this rasp loves to rip out and cause massive blowouts on the exit side. DF doesn't need any help with splintering or blowing out on the edges. I was aware of this and I was being careful but before I could even think of saying 'aw shit', it had already happened. I managed to knock down quite a bit of the high but I still had a wee bit more to do. Before I could do that I had to address the blowout first.

had one on the other side I didn't notice that I superglued too
This is a gel type instant glue that isn't instant. It takes a few minutes to set and harden. It also doesn't grab and hold on it's own and needs help from the blue tape. In spite of all the hiccups, I like this glue and I accept these as part of using it. I haven't had anything fail on me since I've been using it.

worked on the bottom of the other foot
I used a dowel  wrapped with sandpaper to clean up the round parts. In spite of using a forstner bit, the drilled hole wasn't as smooth as I expected. Another fun part of working with DF. I cleaned up the area between the rounds with a spokeshave and a small block plane. I didn't go nutso on this, I just smoothed it and got rid of the bandsaw marks.

a special celebration dance will be held in Mudville tonight
I had to make a sandpaper run because I didn't have anymore so I decided to go to Ocean State Job Lot. As soon as I walked in the front door I saw these LED workshop lights. BFD I thought to myself,  another ripoff. But then I saw the price which was $14.99 per fixture. Now this is the what these should cost and these are 5000K which is almost like daylight.

I went off quickly and checked on the sandpaper and they didn't have any 80 or 60.  So I grabbed 4 of the LED lights and headed back to the barn. This was a very serendipitous errand for me. I've been searching for a reasonably priced LED light and I stumbled onto these. The closest priced ones to these that I've been eye balling are in the 30-40 dollar range.

Lowes sells T8 replacement LED lights for $12 which is reasonable (barely) but all my fixtures are T12s and they are not interchangeable. I even looked on eBay for T8 fixtures thinking I could buy a few cheap and then buy the T8 LEDs from Lowes. I don't have to do that anymore.

another blowout to deal with
While this one is setting up I decided to install one of the LED lights to see what kind of light that they would throw out.

the before pic
I am doing the one in front of the cabinet I just made because it is the easiest one to swap out in the shop. The 4 LED lights I bought will do the bench area of the shop. These weren't in the budget for this week but I couldn't pass up this deal.

the after pic
Only one LED light installed and WOW.  WOW again and again. I can not believe how much light this one fixture puts out.

two LED lamps installed
This is an unbelievable amount of light. My cataract, eye glass wearing peepers are thanking me profusely. Have I said, WOW again and again, yet?  The intensity of the lights is very welcomed and it may take a while for me to get used to it. The 4 fluorescent lamps I would say that they put out maybe 1/2 of the light the LED lights do. Everything is lot clearer and in focus and I still have two more to install.

look at the dust on the top of this florescent fixture
I'm firing this housekeeper.  For now I'm putting the LED lights where I had the fluorescents. I may change and move them around after I have had a chance to work under them for a while.

3 down and one to go
they have an unneeded pull chain
All my shop lights are turned on/off with a switch. I pulled this and then taped it up on the top out of the way.

WOWIE - all four lamps
My shop is flooded with light now. It's hard for me to fathom what a huge difference these LED lamps make. By the way, buying and installing these was my side track.

made another road trip and got two more
I had two LED lamps installed previously in the shop, one over the tablesaw and one over the sharpening bench. There are only two fluorescent lights on this side of the shop so I bought and installed two more. Maybe I'll be able to see see what I'm sawing on the bandsaw now.

 I trashed the shop installing all these new lights. I didn't finish the new saw donkeys and I didn't get my dolly made neither.  But hey, I got new lights that will help me when hold field day on the shop next week.

LEDs done and it was back to the saw donkeys
This set is ready for glue up. I've planed off all the labels and pencil marks. I also relabeled the parts on the ends so I can glue it up in the right order. The back foot has some blowout being glued so I'll have sand that part up a bit before glue up. It has blue tape on it so I can't miss it.

forgot to bandsaw this vertical cut
I chopped it off with a chisel. I started by out lining the top.

came in from the bottom next
It took a while going back and forth but I eventually got it. I took my time because I did not want to make another foot if this went south on me.

I like this profile
Most of the profiles I see on feet consist of a round with two flats like I have on my sharpening bench. I wanted something different for the donkeys and it gives me a visual for planing the detail on my new workbench.

second set ready to glue up
I stayed in the shop long enough to whack out the second set. Installing the lamps ate up a fair bit of time and all the clean up on the donkeys made my fingers start singing arias. On a brighter note, cleaning up the second set of donkeys under the new LED lights was a huge improvement.

I will have to clean up the shop and that will take precedent over the donkey glue up most likely. We'll see what shakes out when I start that fun adventure. The glue up of the donkeys didn't happen today sports fans.

two left
This is payday week and I hope that Job Lot has two more of these left come friday. These two lamps are to the rear of the tablesaw  and I consider it part of the workshop. The laundry table in front of the washer and dryer has a lot of my hand tools on the bottom shelf. I may put a third one in by the furnace. According to the directions with the lamps you can string up to four of them together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the original host of the game show Jeopardy (before Alex Trebek)?
answer - Art Fleming

donkeys dry fitted......

Sun, 10/01/2017 - 3:17am
It didn't look like I was going to get this far this morning. I had stopped by Lowes to check on a few things and I ended up buying a few things. I couldn't pay for them because I forgotten to take my wallet with me. That meant going home, finding the wallet, (it was on the floor), and returning to Lowes to buy the goodies. It took me a while to light the fires in the motivation furnace after that adventure and finally get my butt down to the shop.

unplanned goodies from Lowes
I had stopped at Lowes on the way home from work (OT) to check on getting some Formica. I need to build my 'real' stand up desk done for work. The one I'm using now needs to be updated (too small in the width). Anyways, when I get to Lowes there is no one to help me find the where they hide the Formica. So I wandered around looking where I think it would have been but I came up dry. So I went looking for casters.

I had looked for them on line but the selection had nothing I wanted. I wanted a 2" or smaller wheel rated for at least 50lbs (27 kilos) and Lowes had a quite a few to pick from. I grabbed four steel wheeled casters that were rated for a 100 lbs (45 kilos) each. As I was walking away with these, I spied the ones I did buy. These are 51mm (2") wheels with a some kind of a poly wheels. These are rated for 91lbs each (41kilos) and this should be more than adequate for the toolbox.

I got some 5/4 pine to make a dolly with. I had got a good suggestion on buying one and I was going to do that but when I saw the right casters in Lowes I changed my mind. I bought two 8' x 4" boards. I could have made the dolly out of one board but I got two so I can work around the knots. It is something you can't avoid with pine.

new pattern for the top of the uprights
it's not a circle
I started with a circle and changed it by marking another line inside that and making it a bit flatter. I like this better than a round ball look from a circle.

foot pattern
I can put this so the knot is on the foot but I think that would always visible. I'll be using the donkeys by looking down onto them and seeing the knot.

where do you put the knot
After placing a scrap in the position of the bearer I went with it here. It's too big to remove with a chamfer so I'll live with it as is. And with stock on the bearer the knot won't be visible.

laying out the tenons
 I used this knife for the whole donkey project. It felt a little funny size wise but I haven't encountered any problems with it yet. I'm sure using it will be old hat with a few more projects under my belt.

foot detail changed
I moved the foot in from the edge about a 1/4" which made the slant at the bottom slightly bigger. It isn't a huge detail and you may have to stare at for a while to pick it out.

top bearer mortises laid out

bottom stretcher mortises were the last of the layout work
sawing out the tenons
It's been a while since I sawed tenons and it showed. Doing these is nothing like not riding a bike for a while and getting on it later and pedaling away. I'm glad that I don't saw tenons to fit off the saw.

first M/T done
I used a router to trim the cheeks until I got it to fit  snugly into the mortise.

cheek fit is good but the ends need help
second one done
yikes
Got good contact with the cheeks but the ends on this one are worse than the one above.

I feel like this was the first time ever for sawing tenons
These cheek cuts look like crap and they are all over the place. The only good thing I can say about them is that all the wandering luckily happened on the waste side.

removed the ski jump from the pic above with a big ass chisel
I didn't want to remove that much waste with my router. I still don't have the skill Mr Sellers has with trimming tenon cheeks to fit with a chisel. I can do humps and ski jumps though.

done and it's critique time
3 are snug fitting and self supporting
one is loose
I am approaching M/T work the same way I did when I learned dovetailing.  When I first started doing them I made a lot of crap but eventually some parts of it starting looking better. With time and lots of practice I think I finally got a handle on dovetailing and I will do the same with M/T work. I see some crap but I see some good with my M/T work today.

all the shoulders look this good
edges look ok too
Two them have an errant over shoot from the saw but the lines are tight. These short shoulders were something I struggled with taming. I got the longer face ones first but these short side ones for some reason I was sawing long and then swung the other way and sawed them short. I think what eventually helped me with them was sawing 1/2 pins with dovetailing. I went through the same dance steps with them.

the 3 snug fitting cheeks
The end cuts need some help. I am obviously not chopping them square. I did ok on chopping the cheek walls square and I got a uniform width on them.

the loose one
I consider this a D. The cause of this was the dreaded 'I had to take on more swipe' with the router because I thought it was too snug. I ended up with the loose cheek fit and big gaps on the ends. I didn't come close to winning on any them.

Overall these joints will work because I am going to draw bore them. Draw boring is like putty, both will hide a lot of sins. I would not try to just glue these because of the bad end cuts I made. I think that they would move and eventually fail. I give myself a C on the overall output.

it seems I have a pizza box of veneer
I have to fix this loose tenon even if I am draw boring it. I don't know what kind of wood this veneer is. I'm going with it is light colored like the tenon is.

cut it out with the marking knife and ruler
need two
I thought I could get away with one but it was still a bit loose. Better fitting, but it still wasn't self supporting. Self supporting is my goal for a M/T joint

with both pieces it is self supporting
I glued the veneer onto both sides of the tenon and set it aside.

making the mortises for the bearers and the stretchers
I am drilling out some of the waste with a forstner bit. The mortise is a 1 1/2" wide and the bit is 1 1/8".

3 chisel line up
I felt comfortable chopping these by hand. I have a lot of these under my belt with all the bookshelves I made previously (24 of them).

self supporting
I had to mark the mortises again. After I had chopped the first one, I was off about a 1/8" in the width when I offered the bearer to the mortise. I knifed a new line on either side of the mortise and chopped it out.

getting an even depth
I did pretty good on chiseling to depth using the holes I drilled but the router removed all doubt.

tapping the veneered tenon and mortise together
first one dry fitted
knifing a new line
I had only made a pencil line for the outside of the mortise so I didn't have to deal with a double knife line. I added roughly a a fat 32nd on each side. My top to bottom knife walls were dead nuts on.

both dry fitted
Almost done. I will do the feet and upright detail sawing tomorrow and then glue them up. I'm thinking of painting them the same color I used on the tool box.

it's about a 1/4" higher
I had to measure the two donkeys to see if I had screwed up. Both of them are 28 1/2" and the new one is sitting on a high spot on the floor.

I like the new ones
The 4x4 donkeys are very strong and I'll use them when I make my new workbench. For everything else I'll use the new ones. And I'm still going to think of way to make a set of these that knock down.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President founded the Springfield Armory in Massachusetts?
answer - George Washington founded it in 1777 during the American Revolution

saw donkeys pt VI (?).......

Sat, 09/30/2017 - 12:33am
This morning when I left for work it was rather nippy. I briefly thought about going back into the house and getting a jacket. But if I did that it would be too warm to wear when I quit work. It never ceases to amaze how quickly the weather can change. Yesterday warm and sweating in the shop and today it was cool and no sweating in the shop.

I got my time allotment in the shop tonight but there isn't a lot of pics. The verbiage will be matching the pic count too. The saw donkeys are moving along and I think I'll get them done this weekend. I made another change to them, no knock down. Being lighter and easier to move than my 4x4 donkeys, I'll have to put up with stowing as is. That is because I couldn't think of way to knock them down that I liked.


got the second mortise done
I had plenty of time left so I started in on the 3rd one.

ends are OTL
The ends on each succeeding mortise were worse then the one before. By the time I got to my third one, not only did they have humps, they were also slanted. I had done my ruler trick to check for a hump and after the third one I checked it with a square.  I got square on one side and a slant on the other even though the ruler said no hump. I assumed that no hump also equated to flat and square too.

got the remaining 3 done
I was going to stop after the 3rd one and do it tomorrow. But I had more the twenty minutes to go before quitting so I did it. I think in hindsight I should have waited because I rushed it and paid the piper.


yikes
I was trying to get the end flat, straight and square to the edges. I got the opposite one done ok but this is the one I rushed to finish. This isn't a loss as I can still get a tenon in here and make it secure. I am going to draw bore and pin this so that will make up for some of this slop. The cheeks are as good as the first one I did so I will get a good glue bond with that. So some good and some bad.

I'm using and changing this
This is what I was going to do instead of chopping the 4th mortise - make a new pattern.  I don't like the square top look of the uprights and this is the winning profile. I'll use this with a minor change, hence the need for a new pattern. The two flats on each side are history. They are magnets for chipping and breaking off and I don't like the look. The plan is to just spread out the profile above the flats out to the edges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
It was the top rated variety show of all time and last aired on TV in 1971. What was it?
answer - the Ed Sullivan show

got one done

Fri, 09/29/2017 - 1:23am
It feels like summer has made a U-turn. It didn't feel hot and it didn't feel humid neither.  But once I started working in the shop, the sweat just pored out of me. It was like someone had opened a faucet. The effects of global warming maybe? The accident I had to endure last night, my wife got caught in one on route 10 at the same exit tonight. She didn't see the vehicles involved but she had to to wait a while to get through it. That sucked because she was bringing dinner home and she was late. Not that I am a raving anal nut job if dinner is late.

it looks pretty good
I nixed this detail this morning during my second cup of mojo at work. I like the look but I don't think it is going to work for the donkeys.

stock stop
I thought I would use it as a stock stop for pushing against as I sawed. Then I thought about it some more and maybe having this on both uprights would/could be a potential problem. Being clever I thought I would make a rounded 'U' shaped piece of wood that I could slip over the top bearer and make it flat and straight across the top. Then I got a headache because I couldn't figure out how and where to stow the 'U' shaped thing when it wasn't be used. Then I decided to make it flat just like my 4x4 donkeys.


I had to take a look at this way
It's a half inch down from the top here. I got one more idea for a spacer here that might work. A 1/2" thick piece of stock held in place with a couple of dowels. Then I could take it off, use the stop, and put the spacer back on. No storage problems.

this is leading in the polls
This may be done or the idea above may be done. It'll be a seat of the pants decision when it comes time to chop the mortises for bearers. I like having the bearer fully housed in a mortise. Making the top flush I would have to make a haunch or a stopped dado.

I'm really liking this for fixing bevels

5 strokes
This is an A2 LN chisel and these few strokes removed the 3 bevels I had and made it one again. It's almost done and it took a few more strokes before I felt a burr on the back.

awesome
I don't plug many things or at least I don't think that I do. These are one of greatest things ever invented. I would put them right after popcorn, ice cubes, and sliced white bread. I have used a square to bring lines around a corner but this wins hands down. I used them together tonight to bring my mortise lines around from the top to the bottom.

this one brings the top line to the side
I placed the other one on this and that brings the top line onto the bottom. No fuss, no muss, and although I'm pretty good with a square at transferring the lines, I occasionally miss it. I do much better making tic marks with a marking knife than using a pencil.


ready to chop my first through mortise
Hopefully I am not being cocky here, but I am going to chop the mortise without using the Paul Sellers jig.  Keeping the chisel straight and plumb is something I feel comfortable doing. Fingers crossed on that not biting me on the arse.

1/2 way - time to flip and repeat
this is the reason I made the jig
I want to use the jig to smooth the walls of the mortise and make that flat, straight, and clean. I had to cut it down because it was too long. I sawed it off at the top of the back piece.

it's a 1/2"
It's a snug trip from one end of the mortise to the other but it's a 1/2" wide trip nonetheless.


this end of the mortise is ok
I used a 6" ruler and laid it on the end of the mortise to see if it rocked. It didn't so I don't have a hump on this one.

got a hump on the opposite end
I could see the hump looking down the end of the mortise. I have the ruler pushed down on the left side and I have a big gap on the right side. It took a few swipes coming from both the top and bottom to flatten it out.

all four walls are square
They aren't all perfectly square but I think they are awfully good for a glued and pinned M/T.

I wish this was an inch longer
The blade is short of the 3" depth of the mortise. It didn't matter here as I read square from the top and bottom.

cleanest mortise I've ever made in Douglas Fir

the other cheek wall looks just as good


sometimes you have to just walk away
I am slowly getting over my urges to trim just a wee bit more here or there.  It is only 1630 and I had time to chop another mortise but my wife had told me she was going to be home before 1645 (that didn't happen). Maybe tomorrow night I'll get two of them chopped.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the oldest seaside resort in the US?
answer - Cape May, New Jersey

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