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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2722125
Updated: 1 hour 54 min ago

prepping the 78.......

14 hours 38 min ago
A recipient for the #3 has been picked. The  person getting it is in the dark about it.  I like giving surprises and I've been assured he will be. I would have liked to ship it before xmas but that isn't going to happen. A more likely shipping date is in the first week of the upcoming new year.

waiting game
I am not procrastinating on sawing the lid off. Both ends were cupped and I had to clamp them to remove it. The fit of the pins and tails is now pretty good but hide glue is what is holding it together now. I want to let this hang out for a while, relax and enjoy the heat coming off of the furnace. If the pins and tails still look the same as they do now come the weekend, I'll saw the lid off then.

see the cross scratches?
I wanted to take a before pic but my hands were dirty and I didn't want to stop to wash them. I used a file to clean up the horn of some deep scratches on the right side half.  I can still make out a few left overs by the hole.

the file I'm using
I don't even know what kind of a file this is but it is working on making the top of this horn presentable. I was just going to remove the deep scratches but I liked the shiny look so I continued filing  the entire horn.

looks 100% better
This is a highly visible part of the plane. Once this is painted it will present better than what it looked like before I filed it.

this part is done
the before pic of the front end of the bus
This was pitted probably from the casting and wasn't filed then. I'll do it now.

Used the same file and then ran a 150 grit sanding stick over it.

ridge line
The top of the plane here is the last visible spot. I started cleaning it up by filing this ridge away.

top part done
This is it for what I need to file and make pretty. There are few rust spots blooming around the plane but they should all sand off quickly. Tomorrow I hope to finish removing the remaining japanning. Then I'll clean the plane body with acetone and prime it. I think with so much bare metal now that priming it before I paint is the best way to ensure that the paint job will last. After all, it will be a few years before Miles will even be able pick this up.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Gotthard Tunnel at 57Km/35Mi, is the longest tunnel in the world?

stripping the 78........

Wed, 12/13/2017 - 1:07am
It appears that I am going to get lucky with the rehabbing of the 78. I knew I would have to paint it but I wasn't sure how easy it would be. After tonight I know it is going to be easy. My past experiences with japanning have run in two directions - easy off and a bitch to get off. It was easy off tonight only because this japanning didn't seem to have the thicker coating  I seen on hand planes.

liquid wrench and WD40
I got a comment from Matt that this wooden handle should turn and spin as I crank it. I think what happened is the metal insert rusted the handle to it. I soaked it with liquid wrench overnight without freeing it and I hit it WD40 before I went to work this morning. When I got home from work, it still would not turn.

the handle wood is soft
Even with a rag wrapped around the handle, I still left imprints in the handle from the jaws of the pliers. And I still could not turn the handle.

spinning now
I had to heat from a blow torch to get it free. It turns ok but it is a bit rough. I also toasted both ends of the wooden handle. The handle split on me which I'll have to glue it back together somehow. I don't think there was any way to avoid that because this handle is very dry and brittle.

cleaning and degreasing
Before I apply the stripper, I need to get this as clean and grease free as I can. The stripper acts much better that way.

forgot to do the depth stop
95% of the japanning is gone
I was able to scrap off most of the japanning and I will still apply stripper to see if it will remove the last bits.

cleaned and no japanning came off
back of the lever cap looks the best
I would expect this to be this way as it is mostly protected all the time.

this stripper burns
The stripper bled through the glove on my left hand. This is the one I held the parts with as I brushed the stripper on with my right hand.

big hump on the back
While the stripper was working, I sharpened and honed the iron for the 78.

the look after 1200
back done up to 8K
The back is done and I repeated it going up to 8K and stropped it.

the iron fits in the guide
I wasn't expecting it to fit in these jaws. I thought that I would have to use the long jaws to sharpen this.

stropped and shiny

shiny back too
I think this will give much better results when I road test the 78 again once the rehab is complete.

stripper on, rinsed off, and blown dry
This is very encouraging. The japanning came off very easily and what little is left I think I can scrape or sand off.

the other side
nothing left on this side of the plane

almost all gone on this side too
I was very happy to see how well the stripper worked on this side. There are a lot of nooks and crannies that the stripper removed the japanning from. I would estimate that 95% or better of the japanning has been removed. I might be able to paint this before the weekend.

I can hear a little better now. My hearing aids have been broken for a while and I got them fixed on monday. Some things I can hear again - my turn signals in the truck, key clicks opening a lock, my pants making a noise as I walk, and taking a whiz. One thing I heard for the first time is the shutter on my camera as I snap pics.

My current hearing aids are obsolete and I will be getting a new set in january. My current set is 6 years old and a few things have changed with the new ones. The new set is a lot more powerful in it's ability to process sound much quicker which will help with my hearing loss. And the biggie improvement is there are no ear molds anymore. Ear molds are custom fitted inserts for the ear canal. These can be uncomfortable at times and especially so for me in hot humid weather. They are not a panacea for my hearing loss but they help me to hear a little of what is going on around me.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the goat is the source of true Moroccan leather?

the batting line up.......

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 12:42am
The lead off was the glue up of the saw till box and I'll continue to work on that. Batting next is one tool rehab of which I have a lot waiting to be done. In the on deck circle is the chisel roll around cabinet. I decided to start work on it despite saying I was going to concentrate on doing tool rehabs. I am looking forward to having all my chisels in one place. And having that place readily accessible right by the workbench.

As it is now I have 5 sets of chisels stowed in boxes, scattered around the shop. My bench chisels are kept in a box on a shelf under the right end of my bench. These are the ones that I use 99.99% of the time. The others don't get much use because it is too much of a PITA to hunt them down, clear all the crappola burying them, to use them. The roll around will solve that problem.

out of the clamps
All of the half pins were cupped away before the glue up. They  are all tight and good looking now 24 hours later.

the opposite end
The half pins on this end were cupped too but not as bad. Or it could have been the other end. I know now that all the joints are closed up tight with no gaps. One end cap was cupped more than the other but that is a moot point now.

a wee bit proud
I will have to flush the pins and tails before I saw the lid off. There is a bit of proud here and there due to the pieces not being all the same thickness.

not twisted
I have clamped dovetailed boxes with cauls in the past and clamped twist into them. There isn't any twist on this side. I need this to be twist free for when I use the tablesaw to cut off the lid.

other side is twist free too
this side is square
opposite side is off a strong 32nd
I checked this side with the same diagonal from the other side. With that setting I was off on this diagonal and snug on the other. I changed the sticks to measure this side and it came out square.

This is going to be a gift card card box.

the tray
I spray 4 coats of shellac from a rattle can on the handle. I glued it with hide glue.

the red felt dresses up the box some
the next tool rehab
got my parts
much better than eBay
This 78 will be a user plane and I have no qualms with using a new part. Most of the prices on eBay for a fence rod started at around $20. I would have bought one of them but I was leery about buying a bent one.

new fence rod is dead nuts square
It was a bit stiff and hard to thread at first but after a couple of cycles of in/out, I could thread it all the way down and off with my fingers.

very snug fit
I saw some crud and rust(?) in the hole in the fence that slides up/down on the rod so that may be the cause of that.

new rod on the left   old on the right
A couple of notable differences between the two. The new one is slightly longer, the end opposite the threaded end has a larger chamfer, and the turn hole is smaller and closer to the end. The last difference is the threaded end. On the original there is a small space that is unthreaded and it is a smaller diameter than the rod. On the new one, it is threaded right to the rod. There is no small unthreaded portion. I would think that would make the replacement rod stronger than the original and less prone to bending.

definitely out of square ( original fence rod)
original fence rod
You can see that the threaded portion is bent. That small unthreaded portion is the Achilles heel and I think it is the reason why these are found bent so often.

road testing it
I never did a road test on this because the fence rod was bent. I put it back together with my iron instead of the one this came with. I got the fence on the rod but it was a struggle. I had to gently tap it on and off. This is also my before pic to compare to the ooh and ah rehab pics.

nice feel and easy to use
No particular problems making this quick, shallow rabbet. The iron wasn't as sharp as I thought it was. It will definitely need some love from the stones.

not canted and appears to be straight, end to end
depth stop
This is a robust stop. I applied only finger pressure to it and it held for making this rabbet. It will definitely need further testing to see how it holds up for doing a lot of rabbets.

quick clean and degreasing of the fence
There is a lot of crud stuck in the nooks and crannies. I got all of it removed with the help of the wire brush.

light sanding
Most of the japanning came off with a few strokes of the 150 grit stick. I kind of thought I would repaint this and now there is no doubt. I'll try stripper on this tomorrow and see what that does.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a hemidemisemiquaver is a musical 64th note?

survived another glue up.......

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 12:54am
The plan today had two parts. The first was to finish my xmas shopping which I got done by 0830. Getting two gift cards completed my list for 2017. The second item on the hit parade was to glue up the saw till box. Happy to report all went well in Mudville but saying it's 100% will have to wait until tomorrow.

One thing I forgot to get was a piano hinge for the saw till.  I drove right by Home Depot not once, but 4 times, and I still didn't stop and get it. I remembered it after I got home and was feeling a bit smug with myself for being done with my xmas shopping.  I'll have to make a pit stop at Lowes sometime this week. That will be a 'dear diary...' entry for sure.

quiet work
I need a couple of supports for the tray and I'm using walnut. This is too wide and I'm ripping it to a 1/2" wide.

putting them on the short ends

The tray is light weight and stiff enough to span between the ends without sagging. Besides I doubt a chevy small block would fit in it anyways.

checking the fit of the cardboard bottom
I checked to see whether or not I could fit the cardboard in with the tray supports in place.  I could so I can glue the felt on this and install it after it has set up.

the tray fits
This definitely needs a handle to take it out and put it back in. It isn't a piston fit but there also isn't a lot of wiggle room neither.

had to drop the tray down because of the lid stops
I have less then a 16th of clearance between the lid stops and the top of the tray. I did it to maximize the storage under the tray. The lid is seated on the top of the box all the way around.

supports just glued in
No clamps are needed because I got a snug fit. I don't think it is necessary to add screws or nails to the supports.

the knob nut
Nothing more annoying in life then a knob that won't stay tight. A couple of drops of locktite should help remedy that.

marking the ends of the groove
The depth of the groove is 5/16" and I marked the end of the groove to be 1/4".

first one done, 7 to go
sliding square set to the depth of the groove
I used this check my progress as I chopped the groove.

where it rises
This is how far back from the ends that the groove starts to rise above 5/16" deep. This is pine and it was easy to level the groove out to the end.

This split on me when I tapped the chisel to deepen the wall on the outside of the groove. It was a clean break and I glued it back on and set it aside.

missing a piece from the end of the groove
The small missing piece I had and blowing that out happened before I did the big split dance step.

can you see it in the pile
I dropped the small piece on the deck and I couldn't find it. I will glue in a scrap after the box is glued up. I am painting this so putty and paint will hide all my sins.

how to best cut out the panels
I need a chunk of this that is roughly 1/2 of the sheet width but only 3/4 of the length. Is it best to crosscut the end first or make a long rip cut and then do the cross cut. I opted for the long rip cut only because it was the safer cut to make first.

width is too fat
I used a story stick for this and I didn't understand how I was off. I checked the stick and I added an extra 1/4" for some reason. That is how much this cut is off.

figuring out how to glue this up
The way I'll glue this up is to put the sides in the grooves first on the long sides. Then I'll put on the ends. There really isn't any other way to do it.

I'll have to wait a few hours for this to set up
the width is a bit too tight
I am just barely touching the pin with the square. I trimmed a 16th off for a bit of wiggle room.

sawed some clamping cauls
The two ends are slightly cupped and I couldn't remove it with clamps. I need these to help pull the pins and tails in tight.

bottom in
I'll have to replace this because the lower left corner had glue bleed through it.

length is too long
On the dry fit I couldn't fully seat the ends and this is why. I trimmed an strong 16th off and the dry fit closed up nicely then.

rehearsing the glue up
I'll glue the sides into the long grooves and then glue the ends on. I'll be using hide glue for this.

second dry fit looks good
Houston we have a green light for glue up.

it wasn't as stressful as it looks
The trickiest part was taping the cauls in place before I put the clamps on them. I did the long clamps first and then the short ones.

I added two more clamps after this
I couldn't check this for square and I'm relying on the plywood panels to square up the box. It really doesn't matter that much if this is a little bit out of square. I will let this cook here until tomorrow.

grinding my big chipped chisel
This is virgin territory for me. I have never ground anything before be it by hand or with an electron munching machine. The experience was an eye opener. It wasn't the onerous outing I thought it would be. One biggie that really surprised me was that I hogged off a lot of metal and the chisel never got too hot to touch. I didn't have any problems with drawing the temper out of the chisel which was a big concern for me going into this. I still dipped the chisel in water as I ground it.

it looks to be square
and it is
Seeing and maintaining square was ridiculously easy to do. I basically didn't even try to do it. I was mainly trying to remove metal. The square just happened as a by product.

blurry pic of a big flat at the end
I did the removal of the chip first without trying to maintain the bevel. Once I got the chip removed, I switched to establishing the bevel again. Another surprise was the time it took to do this. It took me 8 minutes to grind the flat down to the bottom of the chip. After that I tried to get my 25° bevel.

rounded bevel
The bevel proved to be a little more problematic to grind. When I checked the bevel it was between 30 and 35 degrees. I don't know how I got a rounded one as I was expecting a hollow one.

partial 25
I think I can finish this up on the 80 grit runway. This grinding adventure overall went pretty well. I didn't have a warm and fuzzy about grinding one handed but that turned out to be a non issue. The biggest hiccup I had was how to hold the chisel when grinding the bevel. Which direction to turn the grinder was another issue. I think I tried every combination possible of holding and turning without any one of them saying," pick me, pick me". One important aid I will be making is a tool rest for grinding a 25° bevel.

got a blister to remind of the today's grinding exercise

the blister maker

It's wood and it is fixed. As in it doesn't turn as you crank the grinder. I'll have to look at it and see if it does because it doesn't make sense for it not to.

a smaller chip to remove
After my bevel grinding of the big chisel, I will try to remove this one on the 80 grit runway first. If that doesn't work out I'll try grinding it.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that there are 5 categories that stars are awarded for on the Hollywood Walk of Fame? (Motion Pictures, Television, Radio, Recording, Live Performance/Theater)

#3 rehabbed.....

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 2:10am
winter wonderland at1500
My wife and I were talking about the white stuff today. Neither one of us could recall the last time snow was on the ground before xmas. I remember a much different climate and time when I was a young boy compared to now. Back then there was usually snow before thanksgiving and it was unheard of not to have lots of snow on xmas day. Everything changes, including the weather.

Fiskar paper cutter
I got this from amazon earlier this year. I use it at work to trim and cut paper down to 8 1/2 x 11. It didn't have any problems cutting the cardboard inserts for the box and tray. It wasn't as easy as cutting paper but it did it. It didn't stall in the cut but it did take a bit of oomph to push the cutter through it. All the cuts were came out smooth with no ragged out edges.

working the #3
Since I had the 80 grit runway out, I decided to finish the #3 I got from Ken Hatch. It is in pretty good shape as is and shouldn't take long to get it to the ooh and ah stage.

slight hollow at the heel
 This hollow runs from the heel, almost down the center of the sole up to the toe. It doesn't show up that well in this pic but I can see it. The hollow at the heel is proving to be a PITA to remove. This is considerably smaller than what I first saw almost an hour ago. I want it gone and have the sole dead nuts flat from toe to heel.

an hour later
I finally got it. I didn't work on this for an hour straight but in 10 minutes bursts followed by 10 minutes (or more) of rest. When I got consistent scratches from toe to heel and from side to side, I went on to 120 grit.

the sides need work
 Both sides are going to need a bit of time to flatten out based on the scratch patterns I see in them.

metric plywood from Woodcraft
UPS said that this was on the truck for delivery on friday by 2000. 2000 came and went and I didn't have my plywood. This morning when I checked the UPS site, it said it would be delivered on monday by 2000.  When I left to get chinese for lunch I saw the package on the front steps. I'll be working on the saw till tomorrow.

120 grit batting next
After 80 grit, going up through the other grits doesn't take much time. The 80 grit is for removing metal and making things flat. It takes a while to get through it. The successive grits are mostly for scratch removal and it takes very little time on each one.

done up to 400 grit - it's shiny
I go up to 600 grit and stop there. I don't have a 600 grit belt and I do it wrapped around a block of wood.

degreasing and cleaning the interior
Cleaned and degreased.  The japanning looks to be 99% intact. What I am not sure of is whether or not this is the original japanning. Either way this is the best japanning I've seen on any plane that I have rehabbed to date.

sharpened by Ken Hatch
I will leave this as is. I would normally round the corners of the iron because this is a smoother. I do that so I won't leave tracks in the wood. Since I am passing this on to someone else I'll forgo that. Whoever gets this can do that if they desire to and they can touch up the iron if they want to also.

fettling the chipbreaker
I stone the inside bottom edge of the chipbreaker. This allows the chipbreaker to lay on the back of the iron with no gaps between them. This way no shavings can get underneath the chipbreaker. This doesn't have to be overly large and I strive to get it gap free first.

leading edge
I stone this up to the 1200 stone and then I strop it. I do this so the shavings will readily pass up and over this.

brass is shiny and the small parts are cleaned and oiled
600 grit
This is the last step to be done before I put the plane back together.

the last step in the rehab
I love this stuff. Not only does it shine up the planes, it protects them too. The shine does fade a bit, but not much, over time. But what I am really liking more is this will keep the planes clean looking for 3-4 months depending upon how much I use them.

this took a while
Getting even shavings from both sides kicked my butt this time. The hardest part was setting the iron/chipbreaker so the lateral adjust wasn't shoved all the way over to one side. I finally sorted that out and the reward was this.

it's ready to go to work
I thought I had a before pic of the #3 but I couldn't find one. Ken Hatch had given it to me and it had a broken lever cap. I had one in my spare parts and that is the only part I had to replace. Now it's ready to start another chapter in it's woodworking life with a new owner.

glamour shot #1
If I was keeping this plane I wouldn't do anything else to it (other then touch up the iron and round the corners) and would put it to work. I didn't type it but I will bet donut holes against dollars that it is a WWII vintage plane. I'm basing that on the one piece studs holding the tote and knob in and the thick walls of the plane.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Gene Autry is the only person to have 5 stars on the Hollywood Walk of Fame?

16 days to go......

Sat, 12/09/2017 - 12:37am
It's official now and proof that winter has arrived is on the ground. My daughter in North Carolina sent me a pic of it snowing there. She said that they are expecting 4-6 inches of the white stuff. I think the last time it snowed in NC, George Washington was president. We are supposed to get the same treatment here overnight going into tomorrow. I'll keep happy thoughts and wait and see what unfolds.

I did this last night before I went to bed. I wasn't sure what the results would be.

glued the felt to the plywood
I was pretty sure that I could glue the felt to the cardboard. What I wasn't sure of was how it would turn out. Would the felt be hard and brittle, or would the glue have bled through it?

it looks pretty good
The felt isn't stiff and hard nor did the glue bleed through to the top. It isn't as soft as it is without being glued, but it is fine for this application. I just want this to dress up the bottom. The red felt looks way better than plywood.

two pieces for the bottom of the box
Now that I know gluing the felt works, I'll repeat it on the bottom. I cut these out with a small cutting board that I have at work.

how I did it
Here is how I did it Frank. Step one is to draw lines from each diagonal to mark the center of the cardboard.

where they cross is the center
squaring a line across the width
Since I cut this on my paper cutter, it has four square corners. I checked them to make sure.

need a bigger square to make this line
got my two 90° square lines
line up the center line of the handle on the short 90°
eyeball the handle centered on the long square line
trace the outline of the handle
get a brand new razor blade
Resist the urge to use the razor that you opened up two days ago. In fact be ready to open up another one after doing only one cut. You are cutting through the cardboard and the felt and the blade could dull quickly. If you feel any drag at all stop and start again with a fresh razor. I was lucky and was  able to cut this out with one blade.

clean edges all around
I like this a lot
got  two more Howard adjusters
I broke down and got one for the LN 103 which LN no longer makes. The other one is for the 140.

the only one without a Howard adjuster

I will have to check the Howard adjuster site and see if they sell one for this block plane. If they don't it will be the only blockplane that I don't have one for.

not needed anymore

I'll stick these in a drawer somewhere, I'll forget where I stuck them, and I'll be scratching the bald spot trying to remember where someday. The offer still holds if anyone needs one. Drop me an email and I'll send it out to you. My short term memory should recall where I have them for about a week or so.

got another coat on the box - at least one more to go

I got one coat on the tray and I'm going to put 2-3 more there and call it done. It doesn't need as many as the outside of the box is getting.

going to sharpen my 6mm chisel
I need this to finish the grooves on the saw till. I am supposed to get the 6mm plywood on monday so I'll have the weekend to do them.
it's not too bad
After 5 strokes on the 80 grit runway, this is what I got. I have a tiny bit at the toe to remove and doing that didn't take too long.

the best I ever remember seeing this chisel
the back just needed a touch up
I was surprised by the flatness of the back. I don't remember doing it back then and even if I did, it probably was barely adequate. My sharpening skills back then on scale of 1 to 10 was a -35.

I'll sharpen and hone up the rest of the herd
these two have chips
The last time I sharpened these was on the Sharp 3000 gizmo. It used sandpaper on glass discs. It worked ok but I went through a lot of sandpaper and I found it to be very wasteful. It only used one small band on the sandpaper. I sold that on ebay about 8-9 years ago. That is how long it's been since I used these chisels.

the biggest chisel has a big chip missing
Removing this chip is going to eat up about a 1/4" of the length of the chisel. I have never had to remove this much metal to establish a new bevel. I'll start with my hand cranked grinding wheel first and see how it goes on that.

my new 1 1/2" AI chisel
This is the back after dancing down the length of the 80 grit runway. I had two high spots when I checked it about a quarter of the way down and by end I had this. Another thing to add to the A-list.

1700 already
It seemed like I just got to the shop and it's time to leave.  Leaving at 1700 is one rule I try not to break.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know insecticides were the first products marketed in aerosol containers?

fretting for nothing......

Fri, 12/08/2017 - 12:52am
Three orders were supposed to have been delivered by Amazon already. I'm ready to have a myocardial infarction wondering who got my stuff. I couldn't check on the status of my order at work because you have to sign into amazon. I didn't have my password with me so I had to fret and worry and stew about until I got home.

When I got home from work the first thing I did was to sign into amazon and bring up my order status. I was expecting  to see 5 outstanding orders and there were only two. According to amazon, I never placed 3 of the orders. My wife would have been the recipient of the short end of this stick.  After checking the order history again, I placed the orders and signed out. I signed back in to amazon to ensure the orders had gone through and they had.

I found a problem with the blog today. I don't know how it is happening but some of my blog posts are being doubled up on one date. The hiccup started on the 23rd of november with several posts being dated for the same day after that up to dec 5th. That isn't right because I have posted a new blog entry every day for the past several years.

I corrected the nov and dec double postings with what I think are the correct dates. I noticed some doubled up dates for sept but I didn't change them (I'll check them out this weekend). I think I updated the nov-dec problems so that they weren't posted again. I'll check the date when I post in the future to ensure it is the correct day.

calling them done
I made these back in feb but I didn't put any finish on them. Both of them still have stains on them that I couldn't sand out neither. A couple of coats of shellac made them shiny and a bit more presentable.

1 1/2" Ashley Iles chisel
Someone was offering this up on the Creek for $55, shipped, so I got it. It doesn't even look like it has been sharpened. In fact the previous owner said he didn't think he had. This will be put in Miles's chisel roll with the other AI chisels.

Honduran rosewood
My new knob and tote for my #6 came in from Doz. He does a damn fine job on these.

for Frank
I cut out two cardboard inserts for the tray bottom. One is a snug fit and the other is loose. I'm undecided on how I want the cardboard to be secured in the tray. If I wrap the cardboard cloth underneath it, I'll use the loose fitting one. If I trim the cloth even with cardboard edges, I'll use the snug fitting one.

the snug fitting one is the lead off batter
I need to make a cutout for the handle in the cardboard so I can glue it to the bottom plywood of the tray.

lots of red felt
I thought I had some adhesive backed blue felt but I can't find it. But this is also one time where I think that I used it all so that is why I can't find it. I don't want to chance ordering more of it and not having it come in on time so I'm using the red felt.

found the center of the handle
handle position marked and ready to cut out
I found the center by drawing diagonals and then making 90° square lines to the center point. I eyeballed the handle centered the long way and lined up the center of the handle with the center of the cardboard. I penciled the outline and it didn't have to be super duper precise. There will be red felt all around the handle that should cover any gaps.

it isn't laying flat on the bench
It looks like it is but the handle is self supporting in the cardboard. After I fix the felt to the cardboard, I'll cut out the felt in the area of the handle hole.

felt has a crease in it
I'll have to ask my wife about ironing this crease out. Even when I stretched the felt, I could still see it. If the ironing doesn't work I'll cut out another piece.

Got all of 23 minutes of play time in the shop tonight. That is ok as it was much more important that I sorted out my order problems.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Lucy Hayes, the wife of President Rutherford Hayes, was the first presidential wife to be referred to as the First Lady?

something is wrong with the blog........

Thu, 12/07/2017 - 12:58am
Over the past few days I've gotten some comments and emails about my blog. It seemed that some people aren't getting the feed from Unplugged shop. I don't know what is causing it but the blog on my end has been acting screwy for a while. I noticed it over a week ago when the numbers from the blog tanked. They had been fairly steady for the longest time and then poof, they were in the crapper. Since then the numbers have fluctuated up and down. Again, I have no idea what is causing it.

The blog at work staring acting up before the numbers went awry. At first I thought it was the work servers but now I don't think so. I can't always get the current day's blog to come up at work. I gave up looking at stats because they fail to load 99.9% of the time I try.  Sometimes I can read the comments but in the last two weeks, except one instance, I've not been able to post my comments.  I get a 'page can't be displayed' error when I try to post comments. For the most part my blog at work is only for reading, when I can get it to load, and not much more of anything else.

I found the work snafu a PITA. I write the blog at home and I would proof read it one last time each morning at work. In past two weeks I've been able to do that once. I have also been publishing the blog from my phone.  Publishing from my phone is a fun filled adventure especially so because it seems I suffer from FFS - fat finger syndrome.

So far at home, I haven't had any of the work related hiccups. The numbers are still OTL but everything else seems to be working ok. I can read, post comments, and view stats. Maybe the servers at work are the problem but I am hesitant to blame them. I would think the problem would be more consistent and iron clad. Occasionally I have been able to have full functionality and that doesn't sound like a computer problem.

handle stock

I dug this chunk of walnut out of my scrap box and used the tablesaw to get a couple of pieces to make a handle.

looks better than poplar would
I will shape this so it looks better than a chunk of wood in the middle.

finally got rid of the tear out
I used the big scraper and it worked. I was using small scrapers that were made from saw blades. I got rid of the tear out by using a corner of the big scraper. I sanded it after with 220 and it's ready for some finish.

grabbie hollows
I used the #8 round to start these but the going was tough because the iron is dull. I finished the shaping of it with a rat tail rasp. I smoothed it with some 100 grit wrapped around a dowel.

I rounded the top corners off to lighten it up. It doesn't feel to bad to grab. I'm sure the person getting this doesn't have ham hock size hands. This should be just right for her.

I am thinking about how to secure this and the cardboard bottom too. Right now I'm leaning in the direction of making a cutout in the cardboard for the handle.

more shellac work
 I think I will call the orange boxes done. They are not in great looking shape but still look like the old kitchen cabinets. The other box is not done as I plan on putting at least 3-4 more coats on it.

I ordered the plywood for the saw till. I got a 30x48 inch piece of 6mm plywood. I also bought a couple of pieces of 12mm to experiment with. When I will get it I don't know. It took 5 days for the 6mm to come from my last order but with xmas season shipping, your guess will be as good as mine. I will finish the grooves on the saw till this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Thomas Edison (the light bulb inventor) was married twice and fathered 6 children?

lost one, won one........

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 3:58pm
This past weekend I did a dry fit of the portable saw till and I wasn't too happy with it. The sides were cupped as were the ends but the long sides were worse. I got the box partially clamped but I didn't remove all of the cupping and seat the joints. The problem I was facing was flushing the top and bottom so I could then run my 6mm grooves.

If I couldn't do the flushing, I would have to come up with an alternative top and bottom. I have way too many calories invested in this to call it quits. What I came up with was gluing the till up as best I could without plowing any grooves in it. Once the joints had set I would glue and screw a piece of 6mm plywood on the top and bottom.

To hide the piles of the plywood edges I would plane a shallow rabbet all around the top and bottom edges. Gluing a piece of thin pine in the rabbet would hide the plywood edges and dress it up a bit.

the loss
This side doesn't look too bad. I could probably scrape and sand the proud areas even.

this side is ugly
Both the top and bottom pieces shifted on me. The horn also has a big divot that I hadn't noticed when I glued this. I don't want to use this on my #6 and I'll toss this in with my other spare plane parts. I ordered another knob and tote and I should have it by this weekend. Fingers are crossed on that.

cleaning up the inside of the till
this looks damn good as is
Almost all of the cup is clamped out and I didn't even use any cauls. I also didn't clamp the short sides.

the other end looks good too
This is very encouraging and I think I can skip gluing the panels on the outside top and bottom.

within a 16th of being square

figured it out
I put a caul on both ends on both ends so that the top was free. I had to put a clamp across the short side on the far end because I had to close up the half pin on the left side. The first check for twist showed a wee bit of it.

knocking the corners down
Before I can work on the twist I have flush the corners. Flushing the corners and getting them level will allow the plane to turn the corners without hanging up.

clamping the clamps
I got a scrap at each end and it held the box while I ran the plane around the edges.

I worked the two high corners first and then went 360 with the plane. Once I got a continuous shaving from the starting point to it's return, I was done.

twist is gone
gap in the half pin
This was worse than what I see here when I started this. The gap was larger and the pin was curled up and out. I'll repeat the clamping setup when I do the bottom.

very happy with this
I was moving the knife wall with my chopping.

the other side
I still plan on using the 140 to make shallow rabbets in the tail boards. I wanted to see if what I thought I was doing was the cause of my gappy inside joints. On this chopping I made sure I had a deep 'knife wall' before I started to whack the chisel with any oomph.

bottom had the same amount of twist as the top had
I didn't forget this time
One rather annoying habit I have is planing the bottom and removing my marked corners.  Not so this time and I remembered to label the inside top corners before I planed the top. After the bottom was flushed, I labeled the corners again on the top.

plowing stopped grooves
I plowed as much of the groove as I could. I will finish the remaining parts with a chisel. I can't use a router here because I only have a 1/4" iron and that is too wide for a 6mm groove.

almost came through at this end
I didn't realize that I was this far back. If it shows on the finished joint I'll fill it with putty because this till is getting painted.

my first chisel set was metric
I never realized or checked my first chisel set and assumed that it was imperial. It wasn't and this 6mm chisel is a good fit for the groove. I'll have to spend some time at the stones getting it ready before I can use it.

just enough room to clear the tail on both ends
the Record 044 irons
These are imperial which also means the plane was made before the 1960's switch to metric. The irons go from 1/8" up to 9/16" by 16ths.

Not a big deal for this application because I am painting the till. I used this as a practice to see if I could do it without nicking anything. 3 out 4 isn't that bad for a first try.

wee bit of a problem
My 6mm panel is 24x30 and I need another 3 inches. Looks like I'll be ordering another panel.

a quarter sheet will do
A 24x48 sheet of plywood will give up the two needed panels and I'll have half the sheet left over.

flushed up the box tray
got tear out on both ends
sanding got most of the test out
There is still a little patch of the tear left. I tried to scrape it out and that wasn't working too well. This is a narrow piece and I was having problems flexing the scraper so it would take a bite. I hand sanded 90 % of out and I'll get the remaining 10% tomorrow.

sanded a slip fit in the tray
There is enough wiggle room for the tray to fit inside the box. When I let it go it slowly sunk down.

cardboard liners
I am going to cut the cardboard to fit the bottom of the tray and box. Once I find my blue velvet cloth, I'll glue that to the cardboard and insert them into their respective spots.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Commodore Perry signed the Treaty of Kanagawa which opened up Japan to western trade?

20 days to go......

Mon, 12/04/2017 - 4:23pm
I was taking pics of Miles's toolbox and doing a mental inventory of what tools he has and what he lacks. I used Paul Seller's essential tool list as a guide to get me started. Once I had a head of steam up I stepped back and evaluated the list and what I use tool wise. Paul's list is a good starting point but I decided to go in a different direction. Since I will be the one teaching him, I am picking the tools he will need to follow along with me. He should be able to make just about anything he wants with his kit.

The pics are so I can show them to him at christmas so he knows grandpa didn't short him in the present department. I noticed something lacking when I was snapping the pics. He doesn't have any pigstickers to make mortises. I'm not a fan of using bench chisels to make mortises so........  I looked for mortise chisels today and saw nothing. I will get him a 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 to start with or maybe I'll forgo the 5/16 size.

Miles's plow plane
I consider being able to plow grooves to be important for woodworking. I also wanted to get Miles a plow plane and not a 'plane' that does everything else too. This fits that bill and it looks decent. There aren't any rust spots on the plane nor is there any pitting on the fence rods. I don't know how many irons came with this but they all appear to be there. Each and everyone of them has been sharpened by hand too. I can tell because all the bevels on the irons are rounded.

Record 044
I could have sworn I had bought a Record 050 but this is just as good.

can't woodwork without a good set of chisels
This is a set of six Ashley Iles bench chisels and they are the same ones I have. The added bonus is these came with the tool roll. These are for Miles.

my AI on the right
My chisels are about 4-5 years old. I'm not exactly sure how old but I seem to remember the person I bought them from said that he had them for over a year without using them. It looks like AI changed the design of them and eliminated most of the flat on the top and increased the bevels.

the backs
There is a rough grinding on the back of the new AI chisel. I recall flattening my chisels was not easy and all of them needed a lot of work. I wonder how much work will be required to flatten these new ones? I have plenty of time to do it either way I go.

I really like the tool roll for the chisels
glue has set up
I am impressed by how strong the bond is. I used the rapid fuse glue on this. It didn't swell the joints but it does appeared to have filled the gaps. The pins and tails don't look too bad as they are. I tried to twist this and break it and I couldn't. I am going to use this for the box based on what I found out tonight.

it's a snug fit both ways
It will take very little sanding to get a slip fit. I don't want to plane the long sides to do that. I can sand it without breaking it apart but I don't have a warm and fuzzy about planing it.

planed the twist out
I did risk flushing the top and bottom and then planing the twist out. Both the top and bottom was twisted and I removed it without any problems.

it's too short
I think that she said the same thing. The width is perfect with just a frog hair extra on both sides.

bandsawed a new piece
I took my eye medicine just before I went down to the shop which precluded me doing anything. Just making two quick, short cuts on the bandsaw was an adventure. Your perception of depth is severely reduced with just one peeper. I didn't do anything else tool wise in the shop tonight because of that.

I managed to get this glued and set by the furnace. I'll plane the bottom flush tomorrow

this I could do
Not much I can screw up even with one eye putting shellac on some boxes. The orange colored boxes I made from the old kitchen cabinets, one for each of the girls. I made them back in Feb of this year and never got around to giving them to the girls. I'll try to do it for xmas. I came back to shop after dinner and put on the second coat. 3-4 more and I can call these done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the latin word 'veto' means, I forbid?

getting better.......

Mon, 12/04/2017 - 12:56am
My eye is getting better and I have seen a big improvement in only one day. I woke up this morning and it wasn't glued shut which was a good sign. And other  than having to deal with putting the medicine in my eye and waiting, I didn't have problems in the shop. In spite of the eye feeling better I decided to take it easy today and just go slow in everything I did.

Quiet work
It was almost 0730 by the time I started on this box. This has to be done for xmas and the wife was still sleeping. It's been over an hour since I put the medicine in my eye and my vision was no longer blurry. There is a plastic,rubbery washer thing underneath the knob and that is what the shallow hole is for.

I would have prefer making one but I have time constraints
There is a greenish  grain splash on the poplar lid that matches the greenish tint to the knob. This box is for stuffing xmas candy in.

too short
If I wanted the bottom of the stud to be flush with the bottom of the lid I did a great job.  I forgot to allow for the washer and the nut. This won't be wasted as I will epoxy this into a hole on something else. I have 3 more of them that I can cut the stud to the correct length.

I'm going to finish this
I wasn't going to use this but I changed my mind. If it works for the box ok. If not I'll use it in the shop somewhere. I sawed the pins with my LN dovetail saw without any hiccups. I think I was able to do that because this stock is maple. Usually I can't saw stock this thin with the LN saw.

can't chop them yet
My curiosity has been aroused as to how well these tails and pins will mate.

#6 is done - port side glamour shot
bow shot
starboard side shot
stern shot
Put on some Autosol and buffed it out. I do like shiny, brass first and then anything else.

the before pic

stopped when I got an end to end shaving
I was curious and concerned about the slots in the sole and if they might interfere with making shavings. Especially so planing on the corner but it doesn't. Granted the corner is rounded but I didn't detect the slightest hint of the plane catching on any of the slots. As for it being easier to plane, I didn't feel any appreciable difference. When I do my #6 which isn't corrugated, I'll do a side by side. For now this is going in Miles's toolbox.

one corner fitted but it's looser than what I would like
I don't have a lot of experience with maple. It is a wood that I haven't used much over my years of woodworking so I'm not sure how much the glue will swell the joint.

dry fit is a frog hair too big
If I do use it, I'll have to sand it to fit. I don't think that this will hold up to being planed to fit.

biggest gaps
All the corners came out with varying degrees of loose. The pin saw cuts were much better then the tail cuts that I did with the Zona saw. But they didn't eliminate the fit errors.

glued with the rapid fuse
I got blue tape on the corners and have it very lightly clamped against the 12" square. This glue sets in 30 minutes and I'll check it again then.

got the last of the pins chopped
It had to stay this way for a few hours while the medicine induced blurriness went away.

been over an hour
A quick check of the diagonals and they are both the same. I set this aside by the furnace for it to fully set. I will glue a 1/8" plywood bottom onto this tomorrow.

checking the fit off the saw
I didn't get bit on the arse here. I was expecting the pins and tails to be loose but instead they are too tight to go together.

this is what happens when you saw with one eye
I usually split the line but I left the entire line this time. I don't mind trimming the pins to fit. I find it relaxing watching how little shavings removed make room for the pins and tails to mesh.

first corner dry fitted
I was moving the knife wall
I was very careful chopping this time and the left side is gap free but the right isn't.

tails aren't fully seated
It looks like the bottom corners of the pins are pinching the tails. I will have to do a bit more trimming.

other end of the board is cupped
got 99% of it clamped out
this one is tight too and will get a shave job

it will be a pain in the arse
I have to clamp this together, square it up, and then flush the top and the bottom. I need to do that so I can plow a 6mm groove on the top and bottom for the plywood panels. Clamping it so the pins and tails are fully seated and it is square, is going to be a challenge.

the cupping is working against me here
I will need clamping cauls at all the corners to flatten the cup out that goes in two different directions.

the saws fit
One point for me. I have enough room at one end for some files and maybe a saw set.

6mm plywood
I will need to make a stopped groove in the long sides, on the top and bottom.

A good day in the shop spite of the peeper hiccups.

accidental woodworker

Trivia corner
Did you know it takes about 8 minutes for light from the sun to reach the earth?

wonderful day in the neighborhood......

Sun, 12/03/2017 - 1:51am
My day did not start on a good note. My right eye had been bothering me for a few days but I thought it was due to dry eye. I get it in both peepers in the winter time so I didn't pay attention to it other then putting in eye drops. This morning when I woke up, my right eye was glued shut. I had to pull it apart to open it. I had already committed to OT so I decided to do that and then go to the ER.

After I got to the ER the nurse took my vitals and listened to me babble about my eye problem. She did a visual acuity test with one eye covered and I could barely read the 3rd line with either eye. With both eyes I could make out 5 of the six blurry letters on the 4th line. The doc put some dye in my eye and checked for a corneal abrasions and found none. He seemed to think that I had sawdust in it. But I told him that I didn't feel anything foreign in my eyes.

 I was lucky in that no one came to the ER with a problem worse than mine. It still took over 3 hours before I was able to go home with a diagnosis of pink eye. The doc said I should see an improvement in my eye come monday and if not to go to the eye clinic. I know that my eye felt a lot better after the first warm face cloth I put on it.

A quick update on Miles's toolbox. I was shooting to get everything for it by his birthday (Dec 9th) but that is not going to happen. I have all the major tools except for a 10" brace and a set of bits. I also need a #1 and #2 square drive screwdriver and a 4" sliding square. One last optional tool I'm thinking of getting is a fractional dial caliper which I find handy to have.

I found the brace (several) but the set of jennings is proving harder to find. They are not that plentiful now that I'm looking for a set. Does anyone know of anyone that makes/sells a set today? (Note:Checked the WWW and to my surprise found a few sites that sell new and vintage ones.)

started this friday night
 Couldn't understand why this lacquer wasn't imparting a shine to this knob. Then I looked at the can and saw that instead of clear gloss, this rattle is satin. I put 3 coats of this on the knob and I'll follow that up with 3 gloss coats. The #6 will be done come sunday.

The saw till box won't be done this weekend along with any of the tool rehabs. When I put the medicine in my eye, I'm basically blind for a while. I can't see well enough with one eye to do anything that requires sight. I can still pick my nose and scratch my butt and my goofy looks don't seem to be effected. Needless to say a lot didn't get a lot done in the shop in today.

I did saw my pins but I'll have to wait to see if I bit myself on the arse with that. The first board went off ok but I did saw off my vertical lines on the left side. That is something I do good on with the peepers working.  At least I went off the line into the waste side. This is the second board and my small moxon won't clamp out this bow.

this didn't work
I thought I would be able to straighten it by putting this piece of scrap in the front of the board. I think the gap is a bit bigger here than without it.

got my big MOXON
doesn't look any better in the bigger moxon
I was not expecting this result. I have flattened worse bows than this board has in this vise. I sawed them and the center one moved as I sawed it. My thoughts on this are I'm sawing on my lines but the board is bowed here. Will that result in my saw cuts being off?  Will the saw cuts go off square as the board is flattened? I will find out when I try to fit the tails and pins.

3 gold stars for both
The more I use this old 12" square, the less I want to use my red woodpecker squares. I can't quite put my finger on why but that is ok.  I also think I made the leap and found my new marking knife. I have never made such a deep knife line with any other marking knife I've used. I saw a huge difference in the size of knife wall after removing the first chip. I think that is going to pay off with keeping me from moving the knife wall backwards. I am going to buy one more of these so I have a spare.

This was it for today. It was real strain doing what little work I got done today. I knew I was going to fall behind so I did what I could. Maybe tomorrow I'll be able to do a bit more.

accidental woodworker

Did you know that Walt Disney provided the voice for Mickey Mouse?

#6 almost done......

Sat, 12/02/2017 - 12:27am
Tonight's shop time was mostly spent finishing up the #6. It is 98% done and the remaining 2% will be done this weekend. After the #6 work was done I turned my attention to the saw till box.  I am hoping to get this done this weekend also. I will then paint it and the square till box the same color as Miles's toolbox.

tote has had 24 hours to set up
not particularly happy with my glue up
I used blue tape to hold the horn in place while the glue sets on that. The bottom shifted a few frog hairs but it doesn't look too bad. I think I can sand it out and even it up. In spite of the kind of good results I am not thrilled with them. I think I may buy another knob and tote but I'll wait on that until I see how the horn glue up comes out.

the tote off of my #6
This is the tote that I'll be putting on Miles's #6. The glued back together tote will go on my #6 if I like the results. I don't have to do anything to this tote finish wise. It looks good as it is.

replaced the original toe screw with a brass one
I got the brass screw from Bill Rittner. I got two, one for Miles's #6 and one for my #6.

road tested in douglas fir
Adjusted it until I got even shavings from the right and left side of the mouth. After that I got a half a boat load of full length shavings. And no, you don't need the front knob to plane. The stud and barrel on there so I don't lose them. The knob needs to have a finish applied to it before this is 100%.

worth imitating
John Heisz of the "I build it CA" you tube channel is always making shop projects with common 2x lumber. I'm thinking of doing the same thing starting with the dolly around under the workbench storage cabinet.  I am going to use these 2x4's to make the rolling dolly for the cabinet. I can get enough stock out of this an 1" thick for that.

I'll buy some more 2x stock and let it acclimate in the shop. I'll cut that up 7/8" thick and make frames and insert plywood panels in them. I'm just planning this and I intend to keep working on the tool rehabs.

habit pays off
As I was marking one of the pin boards something about it was nagging me. I had everything lined up but something didn't look right. I had the tail and pin boards reversed. I always mark the boards the same way - with the reference face up on the bench (tail board) and pin board facing out in the vise. It pays to do things the same way so when this happens you can sense it. What keyed it was I couldn't get my corner numbers to align.

penciling base lines
I used the tail board for each specific corner aligning the numbers for each. They are close to each other but slightly different.

baselines done and I was going to stop here but...
pins ready to be sawn out
I thought I might have been able to saw one end but my wife came home before I could tighten this down. I am going to saw all the pins with the LV dovetail saw.  This is where I left this and I'll pick it back up this weekend.

accidental woodworker

Did you know that Disney World and Disneyland are both entered through Main Street, USA?

minor set back.......

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 3:16pm
There are several tools in the shop in various stages of rehabbing. One is close to being done and the others will require a substantial input of calories to finish. I decided that I am going to concentrate on getting all the tools done before I do I anything else. I will continue to work on the saw till box but I'll try to curb starting anything else. The first tool I'll work on is the closet one to completion - Miles #6 plane.

clean up first
I didn't use my 140 to make a rabbet on these tails because I wanted to check something. I think my gaps are caused by me moving the knife wall as I chop them. Another possibility is that I have a hump in the sockets. I have always done my tail sockets with flat bottoms and I don't relieve them with a downward vee cut. I like having the pin having solid contact in the socket.

I cleaned out the left over wood fibers in the corners first. I then checked the sockets for square to the reference face. Only a few of them needed extra work so this won't be a cause of gaps. I should be able to finish this up this weekend inbetween working on the tool rehabs.

scrape, sand, and refinishing the knob and tote is next
I got the knob scraped and I'll chuck it in my drill press to sand it. The tote is the minor set back.

snapped off with very little pressure
I had the tote in my vise and I noticed a crack when I used the scraper. It wasn't a good sign and it led me to this. Of all the plane rehabs I've done this is the first one where I've experienced a tote breaking.  Didn't want to learn how to glue a tote back together but I have no choice.

thought I had solved a tricky glue up
When I first put this in the vise it appeared to be ok. I didn't crank down on it but applied only enough pressure to see some glue come out along the crack line.  I stepped away from it and was working on the square till box when I thought I heard a crack. Went to check it and saw this.

I snapped off the horn and put the handle back in the vise. I'll leave that in the vise until tomorrow. That will give me a chance to figure out how I will glue the horn back on.

time to see if the extra magnets are working
thumbs down
The 12" square survived my shaking of the box but the 15" one failed again. The 15" square stayed in it's holder on all the open and close cycles but not the slam test. It also made it through me carrying it around it around the shop and setting it down and picking it back up several times. I am not putting anymore magnets in the holder for this. I'll live with it as it is.

ready for paint
This till is very heavy for just having a few squares in it. I was not expecting this at all. The plan was to put just a box latch on it to keep it closed. But with this weight, the till needs a handle of some kind. I have a few choices for that here the shop and I'm still in the dark on finding the small size box latches.

accidental woodworker

Did you know that women are 3 times more likely to have migraine headaches than men?

next project......

Wed, 11/29/2017 - 3:19pm
I have a lot of projects and things on my A list that need to be done but I added this one to the head of the line. In fact this project is on the A list but I'm doing a change to it's construction but it's intended use isn't changing. Seeing the pic is the impetus to make me jump the line.

the next project
I was reading  post on Saw Mill Creek (I don't remember what it was) and one of the commenters posted this pic. This solves a lot of problems I am having with storage of bench tools.  I also recently added the headache of where to keep my newly acquired squares. This cart will have 3 vertical and one horizontal surface to put a lot of tools on.

this is where I will keep
I had planned on putting a drawer unit here to keep my bench chisels in. That drawer unit was going to be attached to the legs of the workbench and be fixed in place. I like the roll around drawer unit better due to the add storage space. I'm sure that I can get all the squares on two of the outside walls leaving the 3rd one for my saws. The top will be the catch all for measuring stuff, pencils, jigs, and guides.

my pencil is broke
I thought I had ordered two silver and two brass ones. Oh well it's still shiny even though it isn't brass.

hinges with a built in stop
I was going to use these on the saw till box but I changed my mind. I am going to use a piano hinge instead. I'll toss these in the hinge goodie bin.

you can never have enough hinges
These are similar to the built in stop hinges but these lack that feature. Both sets are cheap, stamped metal hinges that are ok for shop use only.

they are too big
I have seen smaller sizes of these but where escapes me at the moment. I thought that these would have fitted this space but I was wrong. I'll have to search and find that smaller size.

adding two more magnets to the 12" square
My magnets came in and I got them installed. Tomorrow we'll see if there will be dancing in the streets of Mudville.

two added to the 15" square
I put one more 1/2" magnet at the top and bottom of the holder. The squares inside stayed in their respective holders as I brought the box to the bench and opened it. I hope that the additional magnets will impart enough holding strength now for it to survive my shake test.

impetus for the roll around drawer unit
I don't have a big bench and when I'm working on something, real estate becomes real scarce fast. The chisel box usually ends up in the way which can be annoying at times. Other times I run the risk of playing the bounce test with them.  With the drawer unit I can open a drawer and take out just the chisel(s) I need. Another bonus is my paring chisels will be available too.

for the Lee Valley dovetail saw
The top three things I like about the LV saw are 1- the handle, 2- the tote, and 3- that thing on the end of the saw blade. I am still giddy about how well it fits my hand. I have kind of big meat beaters and my palm is 4". That will give you an idea of how the handle may fit your hand.

exceeded my goals for tonight
I was hoping to get one end chopped and I got both done. I'd been detailed with making sure the pizza was on the kitchen table when my wife got  home. I still have to trim these as I just barely got chopping them out done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was the first undrafted QB to start a Super Bowl game?
answer - Kurt Warner in Super Bowl XXXIV

LN vs LV......

Tue, 11/28/2017 - 4:21pm
The ride home tonight sucked fetid, putrid, green pus filled eggs. No accident this time but someone had broke down under the bridge. This bridge is a choke point where 3 lanes, from different directions, converge into two. Nobody wanted to give an inch to any other driver which just compounded trying to get past the disabled vehicle. Needless to say, I didn't have a happy face on  when I finally got home.

waiting for me
Three times was the charm for finally getting these. Twice they were out of stock and when I got these two there were only 5 available. I opted to get these over the other model mostly because these are longer. Or at least I remember them being longer. I got two, one for me and one for Miles.

each one comes with two blades
nice feature
Another reason why I bought this model - you can retract the blade into the handle. You have to pull the black loop at the back to do that otherwise the blade is locked in place.

I like the knife and it is better than what I was expecting it to be. It has a bit of weight to it, the blade is wicked sharp as is, and it feels good in my hand. This fills my palm nicely which I didn't think it was going to do. Haven't even made a mark with it and it already has a few gold stars.

one is in Miles's toolbox
I will road test this knife on the saw till project before I commit to an opinion on it.

dovetails penciled in
I have to pencil a baseline for the dovetails before I saw them. I marked each corner together because each one is slightly different.

itch is getting scratched
I've been looking forward to trying this LV saw out on a dovetail project.  I will saw one side with the LV and the other with the LN.

LN is in the on deck circle
I finished the dovetail sawing on the other end with the LV saw. On this test the LV wins for handle comfort and fit. The LN saw feels loosey goosey, but I still had control. I've been dovetailing with this saw from the beginning of my dovetail journey.

The saw cut from both was too close to declare a winner. I did find the LN saw easier to start but by the time I got to the last tail with the LV saw, it was old hat. I figured out the sweet spot for starting the cut which happened to be towards the heel. Both saws were easy to saw square and then follow the angle of the tails.

cut my thumb
I noticed blood all over the tail boards and I didn't know where it was coming from. Then I saw my thumb bleeding. I must have cut it when I was putting the blades into the holder.

road testing two more
Using my new to me 12" square and the Stanley knife. I didn't experience any problems with striking the line with regards to the knife's bevel.  I was able to run my line all the way around and have it meet up times 4. So my square is right on and the knife did it's job.

sawing the half pins
I did the half pins the same way I did the tails. I did one side with the LV and the other with the LN. I finished the other ones with the LV saw. I have tons of mileage with the LN so that is why I didn't do them 50/50.

I give the edge to the half pins to the LV saw but not by much. Not only was it easier sawing them with the LV saw, it was easier to track on down on the gauge line. The LN did them but it felt a bit rougher doing them with it. No hiccups with starting the LV saw on any of the half pins either.

edge to the LV saw
I almost feel like a traitor favoring the LV saw. The LN saw is what I learned to do dovetails with. The LN saw is what I used to get proficient doing dovetails. Now the upstart LV saw is wooing away my affections. I would say the biggest sway point away from the LN saw is the comfortable grip of the LV saw. The sawing is pretty much the same with both with the LV a frog hair better one way and the LN another way.

The LV saw is for Miles's kit and I had got it because it was good deal $$$ wise. I know LV makes good stuff so I went with their reputation. This is my first experience with any of the LV bench saws. If I hadn't seen the LV deal, I was going to buy Miles's a LN dovetail saw. Now I'm thinking maybe I should buy me a LV dovetail saw. After all it is almost xmas and I've been a good boy all year.

a gold star for the knife
I really didn't think I was going to like this knife at all. I thought I would try it and put it in Miles's toolbox and he would have two marking knives. Not liking it had nothing to do with the bevels on the knife but more with the perception that it is not like the marking knife above it.

I ran a few lines on my shooting board to get a feel for the knife. I didn't dig into the blade on the square and I seemed to have mastered the bevel right away. Out of the box this knife is wicked sharp. It is 100% sharper than my curved blade marking knife here. The Stanley doesn't require any flattening of the back neither. I can also sharpen the blade or toss it and put a new one.

I did all the knife lines for the dovetails with this. I like the length and it feels better in my hand than the curved blade marking knife. The Stanley has more weight, heft, and a presence when held. Compared to the other knife which has little weight, no heft and less than half the presence of the Stanley, the edge goes to the Stanley as the all around winner.

Again I feel like a traitor because I was getting fond of the curved blade marking knife. I am not ready to ditch it and marry the Stanley just yet. The Stanley has impressed me so far but like the LV saw I'll reserve final judgment until I have used both knives and the LV saw on a few projects.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What US holiday is also celebrated in Italy, Spain, and Latin America?
answer - Columbus Day

made a tool protector.....

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 3:26pm
I knew tonight's shop time would quick as I had a few errands to run. I had noticed the need for a tool protector yesterday and I left the tool out on my workbench so I wouldn't forget it tonight. I probably could have been a bit more elaborate in making it but in the end it serves the purpose.

This tool comes from Miles's toolbox and I am not a fan of tools thrown in a box to bang around against each other. Some tools can survive a bit of toolbox rash, this one can't. I don't really have many choices regarding tool storage in his toolbox. It is kind of small and I want to stuff it with tools so I have to compromise where I can.

round leg dividers
The points on the dividers are their Achilles heel. Once they are blunted they are pretty much useless.  The goal tonight was to make something quick and functional.

Two holes drilled in a piece of pine scrap will do the job. I made it a little pretty by planing a chamfer on all the edges.

where it lives in the toolbox
The holder doesn't take up much room and the points are protected. I would have liked to have made something to protect the screw stem too but that would have made it too large. I am not going to make anything for the flat leg dividers. The points on them are meant to be filed if need be.

figured out the lid cutout
The problem I see with the cutout is getting a symmetrical look to the pin that will be sawn in two. On my story board I increased the pin by adding a 1/8" to each slope. The half pins will be sufficiently large and if I'm careful they will be symmetrical too. I will move the target pin down to the right one more. I want the recess in the lid to large enough to accommodate at least 2 handsaws.

too wide
I don't like this look. I thought I would use the extra width but seeing it with the saws it I changed my mind. It looks too clunky so I'll lose the extra width.

kept the length
The lid will be very generously sized for a handsaw. This is my 7 point ripper and it is the longest one I have. I like the slender look for the saw till much better than the wider one. Just had another thought on this - maybe I can keep a saw set and files in the extra space?

I'll let this sticker for another day
I got the ends sawn and squared to the new length. I'll start the dovetails tomorrow.

I'm getting used to this knife
got bit on the arse again
I assumed that the back was flat. I ran the knife over an 8k stone and this is what I got after 5-6 strokes. It is sharp but I sensed it could use a touch up. Before I do that I'll have to flatten the back but I can't do it tonight.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What does Idaho mean in the Shoshone language?
answer - gem of the mountains

saw till et al.........

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 3:00pm
Most of the day was spent on the saw till but in the early AM I did a few other things.  I had gone to the shop at oh dark 45 but I didn't do much beyond giving a lot things some really good goofy looks. My wife slept in late so I couldn't run the bandsaw which is want I wanted to use. I put the time to good use surfing the net and buying a few xmas presents. This is the first year in a long time I am not done with my xmas shopping by thanksgiving. I'll probably be done by the 1st so Santa can cross me off the list then.

this I could do at oh dark 45
I steel wooled the both of them and put on the final coat of shellac.

2nd oh dark 45 thing
I was going to oil the iron and chipbreaker when I noticed that I didn't finish the flattening of the back. All I did was the 80 grit runway but I like going up to 8k and putting a shine on the back.

I placed this piece of 6mm plywood at the end of the iron and I applied pressure to it with my palm. It speeds up the flattening by a factor of 100 over using my fingers. The best advantage of using was it saves my fingers. If I had done all the flattening with my fingers they would singing arias now and I would be way laid.

better shine and I can see the bottle reflection in it
something I've not seen before
This design makes more sense then the studs and barrel nuts. I had to double triple check the #3 these came off to make sure it was a Stanley and it was. I'm pretty sure it is a WWII plane based on the thickness of the plane's walls. So maybe this is a war time substitution because of the prohibitions on brass.

the japanning is almost 100%
I got this #3 from Ken Hatch for my grandson's toolbox but I already had given him one. With the pre-blessing from Ken, I'll rehab this and pass it on to someone who needs it. A little shining of the brass adjuster knob and the plane sole is all that is needed on this. It shouldn't take me more than an hour or two at most.

wife finally got up
I got all the slots sawn again and then I sawed off the part to the right of the oak strip.

slipped on without a whimper
I had a difficult time pulling this handle off and I was expecting the same fun putting it back on. No problems putting it on at all. Slipped on like it was greased and no problems moving it around to line up the holes.

shellac filled in the holes
The screws won't fit in the holes.

punched out the shellac build up
still won't fit
I was trying not to hammer this Cro Magnon style. I was barely doing love taps on it because it shouldn't need to be hammered home.

next punch size up is too large
found my problem
I was delusional because I thought all saw nuts were the same thread size. Turns out it isn't so. I was also operating under the assumption that I had kept the saw nuts for each saw together and separate. It seems that I didn't do that neither.

I will have to buy some saw nuts and a drill bit for drilling the holes for them. I was able to screw the handles on but 2 of them are spinning. The handle isn't loose but it is only a matter of use and time before it will be.

I think this will work well and I have to make the till to fit it
two squares mark the max length
almost 29" for the ID
Add a 1 1/2" for the OD and a few for wiggle room and I'm getting close to the 3 foot mark.

I'll have to make a new intermediate holder - the slots are offset
don't have to make a new one
I sawed the width wrong and when I tried to line it up on the edge it threw it off from the other two.

everything is lined up straight now
I glued the holders in place with hide glue. I didn't want to do that but I decided to do it for strength. After the glue had been clamped for a few hours I put some screws in them.

time to put the keepers on
1/4" set up bars
I used the bars to set the reveal around the lid. Once I was happy with that look, I penciled the four corners on the lid.

don't need much and I penciled these in lightly
1/2" set up bars
The bars are 2. 0457112394572383 frog hairs thicker than the stock. I laid the 1/2" bars on the pencil lines and marked them with pencil.

1/2" lines are just inside of the ends
The keepers I shot to be so that the pencil lines were just visible at the ends and the outside.

nailed partly
I still have to remove this to erase my pencil lines and sand the inside. The keepers are secured good enough to check the fit.

it fits this way
The fit is loose both side to side and top to bottom which is what I was shooting for. The side to side shouldn't change but the top to bottom might even though this is only 1/2" thick and less than 6" wide.

fits the same way flipped 180
For my use I wouldn't put a knob or handle on this. But this is going to be a xmas present so I think I should put one on it. I've got time to think of something.

one spot of hide glue in the middle
small bit of twist
I have never liked sanding things like this to level the feet. I have yet to be lucky and not rip the sandpaper or have it last without ripping before I was done. Planing out the twist is easy and there is nothing to rip.

making tiny dovetails
I tried to make a small tray to fit inside the box. It is deep and this will help divide up the space. My tails look like crap and I would bet a lung that they would be gappy enough to drive a truck through.

sawed tails with the LV saw and the LN carcass saw
I think  I was able to saw this with those two saws because it is maple.

the zona saw still gives me fits -  my tails are proof
First problem with the zona was seeing the cut line. Second problem was trying to keep it going straight. Third problem was the plate would buckle on me. The problem 4 to 10 were I couldn't see the cut line.

I had tried switching the plate around so that it cut on the push stroke but that made the problems worse. Especially the buckling. The zona did not like sawing on the push stroke. I set this aside for now but I think I'll try it again but I'll use the LV dovetail saw.

prepping the stock for the saw till
That mark is the maximum height I need on the inside. I did the same to get the length.

made a change in plans
I am going to use most of the width of the stock. The lid can be used to stow saws too that may be acquired in the future. I will saw off that red knot because it will be nothing but trouble.

a tiny bit left - but it's solid
raised a sweat
It's been a little while since I ripped this much wood.

flattening the stock
There is a small bow and cup in this. All I plan on doing it removing that and making one face flat and straight. This board isn't rocking at the corners so I know it isn't twisted.

board #2 had less bow and cup
I didn't think this would have any twist but it did. After the planing the rocking corners twice and still not removing it, I checked it with the sticks until it was gone.

ends squared and shot to length
ditto with the long sides
dovetail story pole
I made this for two reasons. The first was to see where the tails/pins are in relation to the groove for the top and bottom panels. I can bury the groove in one of them and I'll have to chop the groove in the other.

The other reason is to see where the lid cut off will fall on the line of tails and pins. I like the number and spacing on the dovetails on this board but I don't like where the lid cutoff is.

made a second dovetail story board
I increased the the spacing and decreased the number of tails/pins. The cutoff line isn't carved in stone other than I want it above the center of the height. I'm not overly thrilled with story board #2 but between the two I'll come up with something.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Red's inmate number in the Shawshank Redemption Movie?
answer - 30265

carrying saw till started.......

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 1:44am
The cart may have been put in front of the horse but it actually helped this time. I got some stock to make the saw till and instead of making the box first, I decided to mock up the holders for the saws. Doing the mock up helped me to discard my original rough till measurements. I would have been a very unhappy ex sailor boy if I had made the till first. The holders are going to require a bigger till to hold them in it. I'm glad I thought of doing a mock up first.

dry fit of the base before the till starts
The corners look good. They are even on the top and one is off on the bottom. I'll plane the bottom after the glue has set. I can't see the outside face but the tops and inside all look consistent.

the box fits
I'll take this because I thought I was going to glue the base around the box. This end here has a slight gap. I can clamp it out but it bows this and I don't want it pulling the miters apart.

turned the box 180
Another surprise with the box fitting in the base both ways. The gap is gone on the right and now it's on the left which means it's the box and not the base. I'll live with it as is and put it with the gap on the right.

sized the joints
While the glue was soaking in I went upstairs and balanced my check book.

box and base glued up
It's a wee bit on the warm side today and the furnace hasn't kicked in yet. It's supposed to get cold tonight so I will leave this be until tomorrow.

stock for the saw till
I still think I can get one side and one end out one board. That leaves the last one for the lid or an  extra if I use the 6mm plywood for the top and bottom.

something is wrong
I have both of the bench saws handles together. I want them to be on opposite ends. That way I don't need as much width and I can better take the saws in and out.

I made all the kerfs for the saws on the bandsaw with a fence. The only one that would not fit in it was the crosscut panel saw. I had to widen the kerf for that saw.

the holder mock up done
The width of the holders is about 7 1/2" and it was because of the unknown width that I decided to make the mock first. My rough measurement I guess-ta-mated was 5" for the saws with a couple more for the holders. I could make this thinner but I would rather have more room between the saws then less.

I've got to work on lowering the height
I can make a notch for the spines in the holder and that will drop it down some.

the dovetail saw is way too high
dropped over an inch
I can drop this one some more
the final layout
I need to get the handles for the panel saws done and back on before I do anything else. I need them to get a final height and length. The length is going to drive how far apart the two outside holders will be.

I was going to make another set of holders out of 3/4" plywood but I am going to use these. I plan on cutting some off the bottom to further drop the height more. Before I do that I have to beef up the holders because of the grain direction.

happy with this height
I can lower this another 1/2" to 3/4"
plan the same drop with this one too
back holder
One of the slots broke off and the other 3 are ready to do too. This wood is what is left from my old kitchen cabinets. I am going to glue a piece of 1/4" plywood to this to stiffen it and keep it from breaking off.

the last slot is cracked too
I'll glue the plywood on and cut the slots after it has set
I glued a piece of oak at the bottom where I plan on shortening the height. The slot cut will extend about a 1/4" into the oak. The front holder with a lot of kerfs will get oak glued on both sides and the back holder I think will be ok with one along with the plywood.

the base isn't long enough in the length
I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood oversized and I'll get the final length tomorrow. I will screw the base to the bottom of the holders. I don't want to glue it in case I change the number of saws or I have to fix it.

one coat of clear shellac
the walnut handle
This finish is coming off with hardly any effort at all. The scrapings are turning to dust and nothing is being stubborn.

ready for finish
Scraped and sanded with 80, 120, and 220.

I was going to finish both handles with lacquer but I switched to shellac. The lacquer was stinking up the whole shop. I had to open a window and use a fan to remove the odor. Shellac doesn't stink or at least not like the lacquer does.

keepers are ready to fit
I found a chewed up and gnarly looking piece of walnut to use as the keepers. A few minutes with a plane and they were done. There isn't any need for high precision on these two so I didn't go nutso on them. I'll try and get to this tomorrow.

fingers crossed - looks like someone flattened the back already
looked promising
I have a high spot in the middle to remove.

15 minutes later
I'm getting there and I just have to get the upper left corner. There is some pitting there and I'm hoping that it'll lap out as I finish flattening the back.

road testing my my new strops
The new strop is 12" long and the old ones are 8" long. The longer length helped with me not digging in on the return when stropping. I stropped a chisel, an iron, and a chipbreaker on this new strop and I like it.

needs a clamping strip
My old short strops have a rabbet on both long edges and that allowed me to set them in the vise level. This strip will be held in the vise and the wings will rest on top to the vise jaws, level and ready to use.

The strop was in the vise at a slight angle. I could tell because one corner of the plane iron was digging in more on one side than the other.

Called it a day here and shut the lights out. But before I left, I put another of shellac on the handles.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the official 'bug' of the state of Delaware?
answer - the ladybug

xmas madness has commenced.......

Sat, 11/25/2017 - 12:32am

The radio station I listen to in the shop started playing  xmas songs 24/7 starting on T-day. Less then 2 hours after I got to the shop I shut the radio off. I must have heard the Christmas song 35 times in the period. I like that song a lot but playing the same song that many times by different artists is too much. And they never seem to play what I consider the more 'holy' songs. Such as Silent Night or Oh Holy Night and my favorite xmas song, The Little Drummer Boy. It seems like their song list only has 10-12 songs and I get tired of them after an hour or so.

I like listening to songs from the 60's and early 70's but those play stations are getting hard to find now. My favorite station recently shifted from these decades to the 80's. It is ok but some of the songs I don't like mostly because I can't understand the words. That is what I like about the 60's music, I can understand 99% of it. I'll have to find my CD player and play CDs until xmas has passed.

part of my Geek stash
I got two comments about salvaging the magnets from hard drives so I'm giving it a go. I have no shortage of them and this is just one pile of many. I am going to try and get the magnets out of the top drive which is a 80G Western Digital.

really teeny torx bit
I don't know the size of this but it is small. So small I can't read the size on the bit. The toolchest in the background is my electronics kit. This is what I used when I was fixing blood chemistry medical equipment. Customers were impressed when I came into the lab with it.

the hard drive controller board
I have swapped these boards out before and that was the extent of what I did with repairing hard drives.

lid won't come off
it was screwed onto the read/write arm
I have a lot of Western Digital drives and I'll remember this.

there are two magnets
The shiny half lunar looking things are the magnets. They feel stronger than the 1/2" round ones I used too.

no problem holding a 9oz hammer in the air.
I have the two magnets together and I picked the hammer up with them. I am impressed with the strength of these. Just wish that they weren't lunar shaped.

read/write arm
The Geek in me had to look at this.Those fine lines in the bent 'U' shape get a current induced in them from the two magnets as the arm moves back and forth across the platter. This is the first time I've taken a hard drive apart and looked under the hood.

what I'll use them for now
All these screws go to what is left over from the piano hinge I used on the square till. I stuck this on the hinge to keep it all together. That lunar shape would be hard to recess in wood for the squares.

bottom has set up
The 6mm plywood doesn't look that bad. If this was going to stay in the shop I would stop here and use it. Instead I'll use the standard angle block plane to hog most of the proud off and flush it with the low angle block plane.

how the lid will go on
I will put two pieces of wood (what I'm calling keepers and not these) on either end. They will be slightly less then the width and close to the ends. The lid has a 1/4" overhang all around so I have a bit of room to fudge with the lid fit.

mitering the base pieces

rabbet pieces
I found some scraps and I ran them through the table saw so that they were square. Due to the small size I didn't want to waste time scratching my butt figuring out which side fit where.

two in each corner and one in the middle on each side
this is a wonderful tool
This is so nice having a tool that saws a perfect 45 (on either side). The only gripe I have with it is the roughness of the face after it has been cut.

it is not happening

This appeared to be a good idea yesterday but in execution it was turning out to be a royal PITA. I've got 3 of the pieces mitered and fitted and I just needed to fit the last one. That requires gluing the blocks in the rabbets and waiting for it to set up first. I'm not happy with the fit of the blocks in the rabbets so I'm tossing this and starting over. It is doable but I don't want to expend the calories on it right now. I have to get this done sooner than later.

this is the way I should have done it
I have a lot of scraps  and this is 3/4" thick pine that I used. I ripped it to width and then made the rabbet. The last step was to run the molding plane on the edge.

easier to miter and fit this way
layout for a cutout on the base to lighten it up
lots of circles to pick
I picked the circle that came closest to my layout lines.

got one cleaned up before I had to kill the lights
I'll finish the moldings and the box this weekend and I'll start on the saw till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Henry McCarty, jr?
answer - the birth name of William H Bonney, aka Billy the Kid