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The other day I was rummaging around in an old box of scraps, and I pulled out a chunk of wood that I had completely forgotten about.
It doesn’t look like much, but I’m pretty sure it’s my first woodworking project (not counting the tree forts I built with my brothers when I was a kid). It’s a doorstop cut out of a 2X4.
I vaguely recall making this to prop a door open at a local church fellowship hall. I used only one tool to make it: a circular saw. Looking at the uneven surface, I recall that the sawblade was small (or I didn’t know how to adjust the depth), so it didn’t cut all the way through the 2X4. So I cut part the way through it, flipped the workpiece over, and finished the cut from the other side–very unevenly. I can’t believe I was happy enough with my work to put my name on it, but I must have been.
The only reason I share it here is that it’s the first project I signed and dated. I was a teenager back then. I’m pretty sure I “carved” my initials and the year with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer.
It was not exactly an auspicious beginning to my woodworking avocation, but in one respect it was a telling start. I represents a moment in my life when I looked at problem and came up with a solution that required only the tools and materials I had on hand. And while I now have a lot more tools and a lot more materials on hand than I used to, this is still the approach that defines much of my work. Whether it’s a need for a storage crate or a small table or a wooden spoon, I still delight in making what I need with my own hands.
Tagged: door stop, doorstop, signature
We have a large oak tree in our front yard, and while we have attempted to put up several different kinds of tree swings for the children over the years, this tire swing has been by far the best. The children have dubbed it the Best Tire Swing Ever.
It works best with two or three children, though one child can lay across the middle of the swing, and I have found up to five clinging to it at one time. It has become something of a magnet for neighborhood children. Constructing this tire swing was simple, and my only regret is that I didn’t put up something like this sooner.
For this tutorial, I took the pictures as I was replacing some worn-out parts on the original swing, so some of the parts will look old and others will look new. As with any outdoor play equipment, you should routinely check for wear and damage, and replace worn parts where necessary.
Constructing the Swing: From the Bottom Up
Every tire swing begins with a tire. I recommend a large tire if you can find one. A 15″ rim diameter works really well, although a 14″ is acceptable. If you don’t happen to have an old tire laying around your garage, it’s easy enough to get one. (If there is a creek nearby, there’s probably a tire or two half-submerged in it–and if your neighbors routinely refer to it as a “crik,” it definitely has tires in it.)
Once you have your tire, decide which side will be the top of the swing. Drill three 1/4″ equidistant holes in the sidewall of the tire for tie-in points. You can do some fancy geometry to locate the holes, but I just eyeballed the locations. Now flip the tire over, and in the opposite sidewall, drill six or more 1/4″ holes so that rainwater won’t collect in the tire. Spin the drill bit in each hole for a couple seconds while you move the drill up and down, just to make sure the drainage holes don’t close back up.
Now it’s time to get some hardware. At each of the three tie-in points, you need an assembly like this:
For each of your three chains, you need:
- One stainless-steel eye bolt (I used a 1/4″ diameter bolt)
- Two regular washers
- One fender washer
- One stop-nut
- One quick-link.
If you’re not familiar with these terms, the sales associate at your local hardware store can probably help you. (But for the record, a stop-nut is a regular steel nut with a nylon insert, which prevents the nut from loosening. A fender-washer is an extra-wide washer.) Although the bolt should be stainless steel, the rest of the hardware doesn’t have to be. The tire protects it from the weather–but you can get all stainless hardware if you prefer.
The eye bolt will insert into the hole in the tire. There should be one regular washer on the top of the tire. Underneath, there should be the fender washer, the regular washer, and the stop-nut. Hold the top of the eye bolt with pliers and tighten the nut with a ratchet equipped with a deep-well socket.
Next, you need the chain. For chain, we used swing-set chain with plastic coating. This keeps little fingers from getting pinched and clothes from getting caught. Each chain is about 4′ long, so you will need 12′ total. But don’t trust the hardware store’s measurement. Make sure each chain has exactly the same number of links in it, or the swing will sit crooked.
The quick-link attaches the eye-bolt to the chain. When you hang up the swing, be sure to orient the quick-link as you see above. The bolt on the link should be tightened downward, not upward. Otherwise, gravity will eventually loosen the nut and open the link. So to repeat a saying that I learned from some rock climbers, screw down so you don’t screw up.
Up at the other end of the chains, you will need to gather them into a single tie-in point. I used a device called a shackle:
Double-check that your chains are not twisted. It helps to have a helper to hold the three chains in place while you attach the shackle. Use pliers to tighten down the shackle’s bolt as much as you can.
At this point, you could tie the rope directly to the shackle and skip the next piece of hardware. However, I find it very helpful to have a quick way to take the swing down if necessary. (We always take it down when we go on vacation, for example.) Also, it’s a lot easier to tie a knot in a thick rope without the weight of the whole swing pulling down on it.
I got the biggest stainless-steel snap-link (like a carabiner) that I could find at the home center. The shackle can easily slip into the snap-link. (Or, that’s how I had originally designed the swing. But with our swing, I found that the rope I had hung was about a foot too short, so I added a short length of chain between the shackle and the snap-link.) The snap-link hangs from the rope and ties in to the shackle.
Now about the rope. The rope is probably the part of the swing most vulnerable to damage, so do not skimp on the rope. We got the thickest braided-nylon rope that our home-center carried. It think it’s about 7/8″ in diameter. I repeat, do NOT skimp on rope! Cheap, coated rope will quickly fray and break.
I can’t tell you how much to get, but I will tell you to get a couple feet more than you think you will need. Remember that the knot at the bottom could take as much as a foot and a half, and the knot at the top (plus what goes around the tree branch) could take 2′-3′, depending on the size of the branch. So measure the distance between the top of your swing chains and the branch and add 3′-4′. The rope may also stretch a bit with use, so err on hanging the swing a little high at first. I found that hanging the swing 2′ off the ground was about right.
You’ll need to tie knots in each end of the rope. (If you’re a sailor or a Boy Scout, you can ignore this section about knots.) There are a number of different knots that are appropriate for this application, but you need a knot that makes a non-tightening loop. I used a very simple “overhand knot on a bight.” It’s extremely easy to tie. YouTube is your friend. Tie the knot on both ends of the rope.
Now you need to get the rope around the overhead tree branch. Unless you have a very tall ladder, getting the rope over the branch can be… um… interesting. I ended up tying the rope to the end of a long, thin stick and throwing the stick over the branch javelin-style. It only took me four or five tries! I will not be competing in the javelin throw in any upcoming track-and-field events anytime soon, I assure you.
The good news is that you don’t have to tie the rope around the tree branch. Since you have tied your overhand-knot-on-a-bight onto the end, just get the rope up over the branch. Slip one end of the rope through the loop, and pull the rope until the rope is secure, as you see above. Not only does this save you the trouble of having to tie a knot way up in a tree, but it also won’t cut off the tree branch’s circulation.
The Right Tree
Now a word about trees and tree branches. Choosing the right location for your tire swing is important for both maximum fun AND safety. First, be sure you are hanging your tire swing from a live branch–one that has lots of healthy-looking leaves on it–not from a dead one. From the ground, it’s not always easy to spot the difference between a live and a dead branch unless you look carefully.
Second, the branch should be thick. Branches do look thinner from the ground than they actually are, but on balance, choose a very stout-looking branch. I think our swing is hanging from a branch that is over 8″ in diameter by my estimate. Finally, be sure your swing is not too close to the tree’s trunk, or to any other obstacles that the swing might hit. You can hang this kind of swing on a really high branch, so measure out your clearance around the swing. Hang the swing at least as far from the tree’s trunk (or other obstacles) as the branch is from the ground. So if the branch you’re hanging the swing from is, say, 12′ in the air, then you should hang the swing at least 12′ away from the trunk. This will allow you to give your kids monster pushes, which they will love!
In my opinion, the higher the branch from which you are swinging, the more fun you will have–to a point. If you go really high, say over 25′ in the air, the swing becomes difficult to push. Ours is hanging from a branch that is about 16′ in the air, which is just about ideal.
Now it’s time to hang up your swing.
Of course, the children will want to test it out.
Yes, this tire swing earns the Schuler Kids’ Seal of Approval!
**Disclaimer: I have done my best to ensure safety by using appropriate hardware and construction materials in this project. But because I can’t go to the hardware store with you or help you pick out a tree branch, it is your responsibility to ensure that anything you build according to these instructions is strong and safe. Test everything with your own weight before letting kids onto new equipment. Furthermore, be aware that outdoor play equipment such as a tire swing does pose inherent dangers to all users, and your kids may suffer falls, bumps, and bruises (not to mention fights over whose turn it is to ride the swing and whose turn it is to push). If you cannot accept such risks for your kids, do not put up outdoor play equipment. Risks can be reduced (though not eliminated) by supervising your kids at play, regularly inspecting the equipment for damage, and using the strongest construction materials available.
Tagged: hardware, rope, swing, tire, tire swing, tireswing, tree swing
As a professional teacher, I own a lot of dress slacks. Until recently, I had them hanging on a variety of different hangers, most of which sagged and left unsightly wrinkles on each leg. There are a lot of effective ways to hang up a pair of slacks without wrinkling them, but most good hangers are expensive and hog valuable space on the rack. My new pants hangers each cost approximately 75 cents took under five minutes to make.
Making them requires only a few simple woodworking tools and almost no skill. Here’s how I did it.
I began with some old wire hangers that came from the dry cleaner. Such hangers are easy to find. These are have a cardboard tube that each end of the wire sticks into.
I had most of my slacks hanging on hangers like these. They worked for a while, until the cardboard began to sag and finally break in the middle.
I had a lot of them.
You could use regular wire coat hangers for this project just as easily, but I had these ready to hand.
The first step is to use wire cutters to snip off the lower wire close to each end. I cut the wire about 3/4″ from each end, but the exact length isn’t critical.
I also clipped the wire at an angle so as to leave a sharp point. That will be very helpful later when it comes time to assemble these. Be careful, though, as cut wire IS very sharp.
The next step is to cut the new wooden rod to length. I used 1/2″ diameter poplar dowels from the home center. They’re often labeled “hardwood dowels,” and the wood often has a slightly green color. They should run you less than $2 apiece. I got mine for $1.69 each.
At the store, take some time selecting the straightest dowels you can find. To test straightness, just sight down the length of each dowel rod. If they look straight, they are straight enough. But if you don’t trust your eye, roll them on the floor. A bent dowel will wobble a lot. A straight one will roll pretty evenly.
Cut your dowels to 16 inches long. If you bought 48-inch dowels, you can get exactly three hangers out of each dowel with no waste! I cut them with a small hand saw and a bench hook–that’s the handy holding device pictured above. (See the end of this post for more details on making a bench hook.)
Next, drill a small hole into each end of the dowel. You can eyeball the approximate center. Go as straight as you can, but don’t sweat a crooked or off-center hole. The hanger will work fine even if your drilling is off a little bit.
I like to stand my stock up in a bench vise, but if you don’t have a vise, you can brace one end of the dowel on something solid, hold the dowel in your hand, and carefully drill the end. I braced mine onto my bench hook, and it worked great. Just don’t slip!
Poplar is a fairly soft wood, so use a smaller diameter drill bit than your hanger wire. I used a 1/16″ bit, but you could go one size bigger without trouble. The exact depth of the hole is not crucial. I just drilled to the depth of the drill bit’s flutes.
The dowels come from the store sanded smooth–which is great if you want them like that. However, I don’t like my slacks slipping off the hanger and onto the floor at the slightest touch–as they will if the rod is too slick. So I used a piece of 80-grit sandpaper to roughen the rods a little. I just swiped the sandpaper down the length of the rod once, turned it slightly, and did it again, until the whole rod was just a little coarse. Just remember to clean off any sawdust before you hang your slacks on these things.
While you’ve got the sandpaper in your hand, also sand off any ragged fibers that the saw left at each end.
Now it’s time to assemble your new hanger. With your fingers, press each cut end of the wire into the holes in each end of the dowel rod as far as you can.
If you feel they haven’t gone in far enough, a few taps on each end with a hammer will seat the wire firmly. If the wire doesn’t seem secure, you can always add a dab of strong glue, such as E6000 glue or even hot glue, to each hole. But that probably won’t be necessary.
And that’s all there is to it! Hang up your slacks on your new hanger.
I didn’t use any kind of stain or finish on the wood because (a) I didn’t want to wait for a finish to cure, and (b) I don’t want any smelly or sticky stuff on my clothes. These are going in my closet anyway, and I really don’t care what color they are.
I made up a dozen of these in under an hour. It’s probably the easiest woodworking project I’ve done in years–and I’ll use the hangers I made for years to come.
Bonus: The Bench Hook
I use my bench hook all the time. I actually have two of them, and for cutting up long stock it’s nice to have a pair. But for small stock, one works just fine all by itself.
A bench hook is simple to make, and almost as simple to use. Each one consists of three pieces of wood. The base is a wide-ish board 3/4″ thick. Mine is about 8″ wide and 12″ long, but exact dimensions aren’t critical. You could easily build this with smaller pieces–whatever you have on hand.
The other two pieces are they cleats. They are narrower bits of wood, almost as long as the base. They can be screwed, nailed, or glued to the base, as you see above. Mine are glued on. If you’re right-handed, the smaller piece should go almost to the right-hand end of the base but not quite. Leave between 1″ and 1/2″ of the base protruding past the cleats.
To use the bench hook, the lower cleat hooks over the top of a workbench or table. You hold your stock against the upper cleat with your off-hand, and you saw with your dominant hand. I have two sawing spots in this bench hook–one on the end and the other in the middle. The one in the middle is best for very small pieces that need to be supported on both sides of the saw. I use the spot on the end for everything else.
When one side of the bench hook gets too chewed up to use–which will take quite a long time–you can flip the whole bench hook over and use the other side. This essentially doubles the working life if the jig.
The saw I’m using is a cheap dovetail saw made by crown, which I think retails for about $25. But any normal, sharp saw with relatively small teeth can be used effectively on a bench hook. With practice, you can hold a workpiece firmly and saw a clean, straight line with ease–no clamping required.
If you do much craft work at all, I highly recommend investing the fifteen minutes it will take you to make one or two bench hooks.