Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
This "aggregator" collects all of the woodworking blogs I read every day - or try to anyway! Enjoy!
By Joshua Farnsworth
In the above video you’ll see my fascinating trip to Colonial Williamsburg as part of a study of a relatively unknown type of molding plane, called “Mother Planes”.
On a grant from the Early American Industries Association, Bill Anderson, Larry Preuss, and myself studied Williamsburg’s collection of 400+ Mother Planes to see what we could learn about molding plane construction.
What is a Mother Plane?
In the 1800’s, larger molding plane manufactures used “mother planes” to cut a particular profile to larger quantities of molding planes. An attached fence is a main characteristic of a mother plane.
The folks at Colonial Williamsburg were kind enough to host us for several days in the top floor of the historic Capitol building.
Below you’ll see our research team (from left to right) Bill Anderson (the founder of the project), Larry Preuss (an expert plane maker from Michigan), Erik Goldstein (Curator of Mechanical Arts & Numismatics at Colonial Williamsburg Foundation), and Joshua Farnsworth (I took sevaral thousand photographs & scans of the mother planes):
Our study took place over several days in October 2014 and Feburary 2015. I’ll have to admit, prior to Bill’s invitation to join this study I hadn’t even heard of Mother Planes. But I quickly fell in love with the lovely mother planes, just as I had with molding planes in general.
This is my “cave” where I spent several days photographing and scanning nearly 400 mother planes:
After removing the iron and wedge, we scanned the “toe” of each mother plane, then photographed each side. Here are some photographs of different views of some fascinating mother planes:
In addition to photographing and scanning each plane, Bill and Larry spent considerable time inspecting each mother plane for interesting characteristics such as cutting profile, dimension, size marks, and maker marks.
Details were meticulously recorded on detailed data sheets that Bill created, and each plane was assigned a number:
Erik Goldstein was kind enough to spend many hours with us to ensure that the valuable plane collection was handled properly:
Over the course of our stay, Erik gave us some amazing tours of rarely-visited parts of the capitol building, including incredible tool collections and a trek up the steep steps of the bell tower, which has only been visited by a handful of people since it’s dedication by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in the 1940’s.
Below you’ll see some fun photographs that I took of the Capital Building at Colonial Williamsburg (I highly recommend a visit to this 18th century wonderland):
Click here to Subscribe to Joshua’s future articles & blog posts about traditional woodworking.
March 1st. Spring is right around the corner. I spent the past 3 months complaining about the cold and snow and unpleasant working conditions in my garage. But with the onset of March I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, sort-of.
Yesterday I actually got to woodwork a little. I felt a good way to begin the month of March would be to start the repair of my tool chest. Of course, the snow was falling, the winds were howling, the temperatures were plummeting, and my garage was freezing. I can tell you this, our next house will have at least a two-car garage, as well as a dedicated workshop specifically set-aside for woodworking. I understand that I might have to fork out some money to make that happen, but we only live once, and life is too short for certain compromises, my happiness being one of them.
My chest needs two new parts; a new front panel and a new lid. The winter and my garage haven’t been kind, and the chest is taking a major league beating. I decided to replace those parts with some walnut that I’ve had set aside for quite some time. I started with the front panel, as I knew it would be the easier of the two parts to fix. Because it was far too cold to open my garage door for any extended period, I decided to do as much as I could by hand.
The first thing I did was cross-cut the boards to rough width using a basic STANLEY carpentry saw. I then opened the garage door, rolled the table saw over to the opening, and ripped the front panel to size. Once that was done I was able to shut the door and put away the table saw. I had the panel nearly fit to the opening, so I planed the edges to get a nice fit, then placed the panel on the workbench and used the smoothing plane to not only clean up the board, but also match the thickness of the rest of the chest, as it was just a hair wider than the boards I built the chest with. Once that was finished I used my block plane to clean up the end grain, and more importantly get a nice fit side-to-side. Now, I know that a lot of professionals, and some amateurs, like to make the claim that most woodworkers “don’t know what sharp is”. Maybe that is true, but my amateur ass managed to not only beautifully plane the front panel smooth and flat, but also take full-length end grain shavings on Walnut with a block plane that “never knew sharp”. Am I bragging? Yeah, you’re God-damned right I am.
I then made new hinges for the front panel, which are basically two small battens that lightly overhang the bottom, and I transferred the original catches for the latch from the old front. I glued and screwed both the hinges and the catches. Lastly, I thought a little bead would be nice, so I used my “new” ¼ inch beading plane to add one. A coat of linseed oil (I’ll add another next weekend) and the front was done.
I had a little time left so I decided to edge joint the other two boards I had set aside before I called it an afternoon. Neither had an edge that was remotely straight, so I made a mess of shavings to get them flat and level. Thankfully my jointer plane was sharp, though I can’t figure out how since I am a rank amateur that doesn’t know what sharp looks like.
I have enough walnut to do one of two things: either make a traditional frame and panel lid, or glue up a lid and make battens for it. The frame and panel is what I’m leaning towards, and it would probably look nicer, but I will decide on that next week. When I placed the finished front panel in the chest I discovered that Walnut, as usual, looks awesome on anything, and my tool chest desperately needs a coat of paint. This time, I’m going to make it shine.
More to come of course (bios, class descriptions, etc.), but because we’re on deadline for the June issue this week (and I’m dealing with roof problems), for the nonce I’m posting the list of expert woodworkers (four of whom are SAPFM Cartouche winners) we’ve lined up to present sessions at for Woodworking in America 2015, Sept. 25-27, in Kansas City, Mo. (I’ll be there, too…and I can tell a hawk […]
March. Hmm… it means two things to me right now. One is turn the page on the Yurt Foundation calendar, the other is to march, get going, quit fooling around. This is the month that my schedule picks up. So rather than just picking up whatever project happens to catch my fancy at any given moment, it’s time to knuckle down and get some stuff done.
I keep shifting back & forth. I have to ignore these spoons in the daylight right now, and get to work on my desk box, and the 2 chests with drawers I have underway. At least by having these spoons roughed out, I can carve them at night.
Spoons and baskets for sale today – here: https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/spoons-baskets-bowls-for-sale-march-2015/
Daylight is for heavier bench work…so the goal for this week is to get the desk box all cut and ready to assemble, then work on cutting joinery and laying out carving for the chest with drawer that’s the focus of my class beginning later this month.
Enough. Here’s details on the 2 classes coming up this month. The first is a 2-day class in spoon carving at Plymouth CRAFT – 2 spaces left they tell me. The class is March 14 & 15 – details here. http://plymouthcraft.org/?tribe_events=carving-wooden-spoons-with-peter-follansbee There’s knitting, cooking & egg decorating classes at the same time – http://plymouthcraft.org/?post_type=tribe_events
The other class is the first entry in the 5-month “build a chest with drawer” class at Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking. We can squeeze another joiner or two in…If all goes well, I’ll be showing you some of oak for that class tomorrow. http://www.schoolofwoodworking.com/woodworking-classes/29-speciality-weekend-classes/534-build-a-17th-century-joined-chest-with-peter-follansbee.html
and the rest of the schedule is here: https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2015-teaching-schedule/ including two weeks teaching in Olde England – I’ll write about that next week.
|looking out my back door|
|turn north and my snow covered truck is next|
|added a few inches|
|the end of the driveway|
Time to dry off and get ready to go to Westerly.
What was the first moving picture shown at the White House?
answer - The Birth of a Nation in February of 1916
Minor rant upcoming with some background first. I joined Sam's Club because it is closer than BJ's wholesale club. I joined only to get coffee K-cups there. I can get the 80 count boxes on line but with S/H it is more than Sam's club price. I tried to get K-cups twice there this weekend.
I went online and checked the hours Sam's was open and they said they opened at 0700. Great because I'm up early anyways and I'll beat the traffic on Route 2. I get there at 0700 but it's closed. I have a club membership and not the elite overpriced one. You need that one to get in at 0700. Peons like me have to wait until 0900. I'll try this again on sunday at 0900.
I get there sunday at 0900 and it is still closed. For peons like me with the lowest membership of all it is closed to me all day long. The elite membership holders can shop at 0900. I was not a happy camper again for the second day in a row.
The hours on line don't state peon and the anointed one hours. The sign at the store I couldn't quite decipher. I'm not sure what the name I have for my membership and I think it is color coded too. I was looking at it today and not a clue as to when they are open for me to shop. I threw my card in the garbage and I'll apply to BJ's at work on tuesday. BJ's is a lot further to go to but it's open on sundays and there aren't peon and special one hours. I was member there before but let it lapse.
|splines set overnight|
|sawed the waste off|
|ready to plane the corners flush|
|sanded the corners flush|
|I'm very happy with these miters|
|the back miters are just as good as the front ones|
|miter bridle joint frame #2|
|splines and bridle joint|
|box base cooked|
|miters all look ok|
|the bottom of the miters|
|sanding the miters|
|sanding and cleaning up the beads|
|lost a piece of the bead here|
|off on a tangent|
I wasn't in a good mood and I usually screw up continually in the shop when I get this way. I put the lid and the cock beading aside and decided to do some shop rearranging. The empty drawer on the left I was using to keep sandpaper scraps in. The drawer on the right I had full of scraps of small offcuts of wood. I got rid of most of the offcuts and put some in the top sliding tray. I use them for when I clamp something in the wagon vise.
On the bottom I put the sandpaper scraps. I don't know what I'll do with the empty drawer yet. I first thought of putting some planes in it but nixed it. I wanted to put a sliding tray in it but I couldn't because of the height of the planes. The tray would have been too shallow to hold the planes I wanted to put into it.
|rearranging cabinet #6 - where the bottom 1/2 of the plane till will now live|
|not a toy|
|top shelf layout done|
|first one done|
|slot #13 filled|
|plane shelf #2|
|ledgers are in place just screwed not glue - in case I change my plans|
How many pipes are there on a typical Scottish bagpipe?
answer - 5
Today was the first day I managed to get in a few hours worth of woodworking in quite a while. I got started on the repair of my tool chest. There was a lot of repetitive work to be done, rip, cross-cut, plane etc. I didn’t mind it, I was actually pretty relaxed. It then dawned on me that I hate IKEA.
Why do I hate IKEA? Do I really need a reason? I just hate the place. I hate that people go there. Why do people have to go there? Nobody should be allowed to go there. We should ban it! I mean, from what I’ve heard they basically force you to go there and buy stuff. I see how it works. I see what they’re up to, and I hate it. That store is just ruining my life. I can’t really explain how, it just is.
Well, even though I hate it I probably shouldn’t. Because the one good thing about IKEA is that it gives me something to write about when I can think of absolutely nothing intelligent to say. I can just mention how crappy I think IKEA is and I have an instant woodworking article! No thought, no talent, no real opinion, no substance, no sweat!
There is no “right” way to sharpen hand tools, but there are a lot of wrong ways. My own sharpening regimen has developed serendipitously, but it fulfills the essential requirements of a good sharpening routine:
- It is simple.
- It is fast.
- It is easily repeatable.
- It results in a keen edge.
I offer the following not as a tutorial on how you should sharpen, but as an example of the essential elements of a good sharpening routine. I’ve tried to keep my explanations very simple, but I’ve added some footnotes for anybody who really wants the nit-picky details.
Aside from my bench grinder, which I use only for repairing damaged edges, I have three pieces of sharpening equipment: a DMT coarse diamond stone, a soft Arkansas stone, and a strop. I’ve been using the diamond stone for about eight years now, and it still cuts quickly.(1) The strop is a piece of leather glued to a flat piece of hardwood and rubbed with honing compound.(2)
Let’s begin with this chisel, whose edge I chipped the last time I used it. Here is the edge as it came from the bench grinder. I ground it at about 25 degrees. Most of the time, I’m sharpening tools that are merely dull from use, but either way, I take the edge through three essential steps.(3)
Beginning on the coarse diamond stone lubricated with mineral spirits,(4) I rub the bevel side to side. Normally I use two hands, but I needed one of my hands to hold the camera.
The coarse stone has removed metal all the way to the edge. You can see where the stone was cutting at both the top and bottom of the bevel. Because the grinder leaves a hollow, it will take several more sharpenings before the entire bevel is flat.(5)
More important is the part you can’t see, but that my finger can feel. There is a substantial burr on the back of the edge.(6) This burr tells me that it’s time to move on to the next stage.(7)
I now move to a finer abrasive, this time a soft Arkansas stone, also lubricated with mineral spirits.(8) I rub the bevel on it side to side, just enough to remove the scratches left by the previous, coarser abrasive.
The burr is still there on the back, but the bevel is shinier now.
Now I flip the blade over and rub the back over the stone. This flips the burr over to the bevel side of the edge. Just a few circular strokes is all I need before moving on to the final stage.(9)
I now strop the bevel (only pull, never push!), taking perhaps 30-40 quick strokes. This flips the burr over again, and it also polishes the cutting edge.
Finally, I turn it over once more and strop the back. Usually this removes the burr entirely, leaving a very keen edge.(10) Sometimes with a really stubborn burr, I have to go back and forth between bevel and back a couple of times until the burr is completely gone and the edge is brightly polished.
There are as many ways to test the sharpness of an edge as there are ways to sharpen it.(11) I like to test on wood.
An edge that will easily pare the end-grain of soft pine and leave a smooth surface will cut other woods just fine.
This whole process doesn’t take long–two or three minutes from start to finish.(12) A bigger cutting edge, such as a hewing hatchet or a drawknife, might take a little longer, but not much.
- Diamond stones have a reputation for wearing out quickly. I have had one diamond stone, a cheap off-brand, wear out very quickly, but good ones do not. They do, however, lose their initial aggressiveness quickly. (It says so in the instructions that come with the stone, but who reads those?) Don’t be shocked when this happens. A diamond stone isn’t really dull until the nickel matrix holding the diamonds on the steel plate has worn off. It’s pretty obvious when it happens.
- I use the green honing compound from Lee Valley. You don’t need much. I still have most of the bar I bought eight years ago.
- I have Chris Schwarz to thank for the “coarse-medium-fine” phrase, though he applies it primarily to hand planes. It applies to a lot of processes in woodworking.
- Diamond stones can be used without lubrication, but I prefer some liquid. It prevents the swarf from building up under the surface being abraded, and I think the stone works more smoothly with lubrication. I prefer mineral spirits over water because it won’t rust the tool if I neglect to wipe it perfectly clean.
- Some woodworkers prefer to maintain a hollow grind on their edge tools, so they must grind more frequently. It may be helpful, but it’s not necessary. In an ideal world, an edge tool of mine would be ground only once in its lifetime–before it leaves the factory–and I wouldn’t need a grinder. But the world is not ideal, and edges get chipped or otherwise damaged. Therefore, I own a grinder.
- Some people call this a “wire edge,” while others call it a “feather edge,” even though we’re all talking about the same “burr.” If you hate nomenclature that is confusing, please choose a hobby other than woodworking.
- This applies only to single-beveled tools, such as chisels, gouges, and plane irons. Double-beveled tools are sharpened on the coarse abrasive on both sides alternately until a burr develops. I then proceed as follows.
- I’ve tried several lubricants on my natural Arkansas stones, and mineral spirits work well. They prevent the stone from clogging better than anything else I’ve tried.
- Some tools, such as carving gouges, require a more polished edge, so usually I insert a second “Medium” step here: a hard Arkansas stone, also lubricated with mineral spirits. I hone the concave backs of carving gouges with a black Arkansas slip stone, which takes the place of a strop.
- Sometimes, if you watch closely, the burr will detach all in one piece, and suddenly you’ll see what looks like a bit of extremely fine wire laying on the strop. Do let the strop remove the burr. Never break it off with your fingers, or it will leave a jagged edge that won’t cut as well as it should.
- Thanks to the Internet, the “arm hair test” has now become the ultimate test of sharpness–if your edge tool can pop hairs off the back of your hand or arm, it’s sharp. That may well be true, but it doesn’t tell me what I really want to know: will it cut wood? Besides, by the time I’ve sharpened a few chisels, usually the back of my hand is a bit sweaty, not to mention gummed up with sawdust, so the arm hair test is usually impractical for me.
- When I was first learning to sharpen, I took longer, but once I established an effective routine, I sped up a lot. If your standard sharpening routine takes more than five minutes per edge on the average, then you probably need to simplify somewhere.
Tagged: Arkansas stone, chisel sharpening, diamond stone, how to sharpen, plane sharpening, sharpening, strop
My friend BillF asked me to post the image and plan of the tilting saw bench I use for cutting marquetry with a jeweler’s fret saw.
Okay Bill, here they are. I’ll see if we can get the PDF of the plan on the Writings page.
I think I first saw this tool in a c.1900 book on fretwork, and have since seen it many other places and books. I made a passel of these at one time, and have used and gifted them for years.
I’ve spent a chunk of today unpacking from the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event I did at Goosebay Lumber & Sawmill, in Chichester, NH this weekend. It was a small show by some standards, but very nice venue. here’s some photos I got.
Both days were bright & sunny. Didn’t snow. Goosebay is a very nice place. Lots of sawn lumber, both local and otherwise. http://goosebaylumber.net/index.php
I saw many logs there, red oak, ash, maple, pine and more. Both Carl and young Carl assured my that if you are looking to buy a green log for riving, they can help you. You just need to give them some advance warning.
Sawn stuff too.
Here’s the Lie-Nielsen crates – these things have a lot of miles on them…
When you go to the upper level to look for wood, you can view down where the action was/is. I was carving spoons off to the right in the 2nd photo. But not while I was shooting these…
Thanks to Carl, Carl, Ted, Kirsten & Danielle – and to the folks who came out to see us. Next time, the rest of you can come too! We had a great time.
I almost forgot – this one’s for Chris, made by “Down to Earth” = I forget the whole story… I’ve made several, but never a paneled one. Ahh, another project. picture it carved.
Tomorrow some spoons, baskets and hewn bowls for sale. About 10AM my time, east coast US.
Last night a pinched nerve in my right arm woke me in the middle of the night. When that happens about the only thing that relieves the pain is to get up and sometimes a little use of the arm helps. OK Bubba enough back story cut to the chase.
With nothing better to do I made one to try. It works. I don't think it would replace a holdfast with a doe's foot on my bench but it works and I expect if the bench dog holes were placed with using a logarithmic spiral in mind it would work very well.
Here is a photo:
|oh dark 15|
|miters are still together and strong|
|a spot of hide glue|
|box base is next|
|cut off off a piece to make the base|
|use a beading plane|
|this one is too big|
|3/16" bead from my newest beader|
|sharp usually fixes all|
|fine ceramic round stone to hone the round|
|got my obligatory blood letting done|
|checking my rabbet for square|
|cut another piece|
|rabbeting the second set with the fence tightened down|
|checking my progress|
|out of square on the exit end|
|entry end is a little better|
|I find this plane to be too small for this|
|shimming the front|
|this miter used to challenge me spatially|
|poor man's miter box|
|how I cut them|
|came out just right|
|the fun starts now|
|dry fit is good|
|layout for the base done|
|allowing for the miter|
|saw cuts down to the layout line - used a chisel to remove most of the waste|
|even did the circular part with the chisel|
|base moldings are done|
|toys used to make the molding cutout|
|base is stable and doesn't rock or wobble|
|struck out again|
I wanted to use the LN 66 here to put a round over on the tops of these pieces of pine. I got a comment from Joe M to cock bead the lid and make them and the base moldings out of cherry. I liked both of his suggestions but I had already made the base by the time I read his comment. I really liked the thought of using cherry for the cock beading around the lid but opted for pine. I didn't have any scrap cherry to make this molding but I have lots of pine strips.
|violin plane did the round overs|
|I like Joe's idea|
|I have a round over plane|
|the rounding plane did the round over better and easier than the violin plane|
|cock bead moldings ready to go|
|sawed the last one two hairs short|
|dry fit is ok - ready to glue|
|waiting on the glue up|
What was the last film made by Cary Grant?
answer - Walk, Don't Run in 1966
I picked up a small bottle of Tru Oil several weeks ago and because this box is a "What scraps can I find to saw some dovetails and maybe if there are enough put a lid on a box" box. I tried the Tru Oil, it's OK. I expect if I used several coats with rubbing out after each coat set it would look very nice. As this is a because box one coat is about it and with just one coat Tru Oil is nothing to get excited about.
This morning Chris Schwarz emailed me the complete set of page proofs from VIRTUOSO: The Tool Cabinet and Workbench of Henry O. Studley for my review. I am nearly lightheaded with delight.
Forgive me while I crawl into my easy chair and spend the evening ogling the book with a red pen in hand.
|woodpecker miter clamps|
|four mating pieces are dead nuts also|
|so while the hide glue warmed up....|
|cut a couple small pieces to miter and shoot on the shooting board|
|roughly 1/2 as wide as frame #3|
|dry clamped is looking pretty good|
|clamped tight and it's still closed up and not open at the toe or heel|
|frame#3 dry fitted and it's tight|
|dead nuts 90 according to Mr Starrett|
|a bit loose|
|waxed the frame and panel before glue up|
|the PITA glue up|
|finally clamped up|
Then it went by the furnace to cook until tomorrow. I'll have to wait until then to see how well the hide glue is holding the miters together. If that is ok I can cut and add the splines and those will help to beef up the miters.
|the bridle joint lid is too small|
|almost a 1/16 on the opposite side|
|slight skew in the lid with the back flush|
|the box is square on all 4 corners|
|the lid is slightly out of square|
|add a filler to the back?|
In the United States a Red Cap is a baggage porter and a Redcap in England is?
answer - a Military Policeman
We live about and hour away from the self-proclaimed Furniture Capital of the World, High Point, NC. This claim is based partially on being what was the major furniture manufacturing center of North Carolina and partially on the twice-yearly furniture market (open to the trade), one of the largest around. Furniture making has moved away (some of it very far away) and Las Vegas is gunning for the furniture market. Yet they soldier on.
In the nearby town of Jamestown (metro High Point?) is the self-proclaimed largest furniture store. (Lots of self-proclamations in North Carolina.) At 1.3 million square feet, who am I to argue? My wife and I tend to view it as 1.3 million square feet of ugly furniture.
Ugly is a bit of a strong word. Not meeting our sense of aesthetics might be a more appropriate way to phrase it. There is some Shaker-esque furniture we almost like. What we have found is that for the money one can buy antiques or have something built by one of the area custom furniture makers. Let’s keep the money local.
There is one piece of furniture there that has continued to impress me (favorably) over the years. But like many things that impress, I have no desire to own it. I’m not sure where I’d put it.
At 85′, it needs just the right room.
That’s the second largest claw and ball foot I’ve ever seen (with apologies to Buck Henry and Mel Brooks (extra credit if you get the reference)):
Can you imagine Mary May (or Chuck Bender) out there with a chainsaw carving this one.
Of course, the drawers are all dovetailed. I would love to show you but their JLG lift was unavailable.
You can read an article about it HERE.
Somewhere in High Point is the 42′, world’s largest (freestanding) dresser. When I find it, I’ll let you know.
The Tormek BGM-100 kit is worth the money, it has everything you need except the ply:
I am earnestly trying to wrap up some frayed threads in the blog posts, and this one and two more will complete the tutorial on simple parquetry, which I will combine, edit, and post as a downloadable document.
Once the parquetry composition has been assembled such that the area completed is larger than the field of the composition as it will be presented on the panel, the time has come to trim it to the exact size you want. But before that, you have to decide exactly how large you want the central field of the parquetry panel. I tend to work my way in from the edges of the panel as determined by the sizes and proportions of the furniture on which it will reside, then subtract a symmetrical border and a symmetrical banding.
Once I have done that, I simply re-establish the center lines of the parquetry assemblage and precisely mark out its perimeter, and saw it with any of the veneer saws mentioned earlier. The desired end result is a rectangular and symmetrical composition. Once I have the field trimmed to the proper size, I re-mount the unit on a second, larger sheet of kraft paper using hot glue. It need be adhered only at the perimeter.
I tend to make my own banding, frequently making a simple stack of veneer faces with slightly thicker centers, assembled and glued between two cauls until they are set. Then I just rip of as many pieces of banding as the assembled block can yield.
Once the banding is available, I cut them then trim the ends with a plane and miter shooting jig. Once the first piece is ready to apply, I place the entire composition on a large board with a corked surface. Then just like Roubo, I glue the banding down on top of this second piece of kraft paper, tight against the cut edge of the field, and “clamp” it in place with push pins, similar to those illustrated by Roubo. By the time I get all the way around the perimeter of the field, cutting then trimming each of the banding pieces, the piece is ready to set aside for a bit.
For the outer border, I tend to use a simple approach, often employing some of the original veneer stock in either the long-grain or cross grain orientation.
Once the banding is set I remove the pins then hammer veneer the borders in place, and the assembling of the parquetry panel is complete.
Up next – Gluing Down the Parquetry