Hand Tool Headlines
The Woodworking Blogs Aggregator
In “Young Makers’ Bookshelves” (coming in the October 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine), Rodney Wilson offers a brief profile on 10 of today’s rising woodworking stars, then asks them about the books that have influenced their lives and work. Below, you’ll find links to their personal websites and Intagrams accounts (where applicable.) – I encourage you to check out their work! Laura Zahn Personal website: http://offthesaw.com/ Allied Workshop website: https://alliedwoodshop.com/ Instagram: @alliedwoodshop Joshua Klein Personal […]
They used to sell 1x 12, 1x10, etc etc down to 1x4 clear pine in 6' lengths. That supplier went south and shut down too. The pickings were awfully slim today. 1x8, 1x6, and 1x4 was all they had for sale. The piles they had were the last of it and it looks like I won't be going to Pepin for 1x pine any more.
More and more sawmills are closing down and shutting their doors. A pallet sawmill where I used to live in Westerly shut down a few years ago. A sawmill I went to a few times in Griswold Ct went bankrupt. Parlee sawmill recently went out of business and the one reply I got from sawmill sawing 5/4 pine was one in north western Mass. He only has 5/4 in 6" widths but he is a lot closer than driving up to New Hampshire or Maine. I really don't want to buy my 1x or 5/4 lumber from a big box store.
|got some parts in|
|knob and tote done|
|panel glued back together|
|had to scrape some glue off this side|
|checking my back panel again|
|top to bottom is parallel along it's length|
|all four corners are dead nuts square now|
|did a dry fit and I had to shave a wee bit more|
|a little work with a Japanese rasp fixed it|
|dry fitted and it's square|
|two more clamps and it's no longer square|
|aggravation setting in|
Tried a different 3 clamp set up on both ends and it threw the cabinet out of square by a 1/2". I tried everything I could think of to square it up and got nowhere. I could only square it up by applying a clamp across the corners. That squared it up but it also introduced twist to the cabinet. I had to go back to the first dry clamping sequence to order to get square after all the clamps were on. Two more practice runs and I felt comfortable about how to clamp it up square.
|ready to strip the the body and the frog|
|marking for the bottom of the dado|
|my haul from Pepin Lumber today|
|ready to chop out the waste|
|wee bit too tight|
|snug but not too snug|
|3 applications of stripper|
|nothing touched this back|
|the frog wasn't much better|
|glue up time|
|I didn't panic|
I tried to clamp up the cabinet the way I rehearsed it dry but it wasn't square. Since I used yellow glue on this my window for getting this clamped was rapidly closing. And it was happening much faster because of the heat and humidity levels. I clamped some home made and store bought 90° corner helpers to square up the cabinet. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if there will be any joy in Mudville. I've used these before and they don't always work 100%.
I used the black 90° first in opposing corners and checked the other two for square and they were. I checked for square in the middle of the cabinet with the pinch rods and they said the cabinet was square also. I put on the last two plywood corner clamps and called it done for now.
|squared up the bottom shelf|
|one end of the bottom shelf|
|the other end|
|getting some poly|
|these are getting poly today too|
In spite of taking the day off I didn't get much accomplished. I had a bit of a struggle in the morning getting my butt out of my chair to get doing anything. I felt so tired that I just sat and vegged for two hours. I did the same thing after lunch except then I nodded off for an hour. Tomorrow I plan on getting the drawers and door started on the cabinet.
Charles Lindbergh flew across the Atlantic Ocean in 1927 and it took him 33 1/2 hours. Amelia Earhart flew across the Atlantic Ocean exactly 5 years later. How long did it take her?
answer - 15 hours and 56 minutes
Cutting parts with a CNC is a 2.5D process. It’s not quite 3D and a bit more than 2D. When you’re cutting parts, the third axis on a CNC —the Z axis, just needs to cut at selected depths. You can start with two-dimensional drawings and add tool path instructions for how deep the router or spindle needs to cut. After cutting parts on a CNC, nearly everyone interested in […]
I’m at the beginning of a project that has turning work out the wazoo. Eight legs that are turned, with stop-flutes, too. My lathe and its tools were my Dad’s at one time. His lathe tools hung on a wall behind the lathe – he had easy access. Where the lathe is in my shop, there are no accessible walls close by. In fact for the past five or more years, the lathe tools sat on the floor in the wall mount from my Dad’s shop.
In the August 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine we reviewed the OmniSquare Multi-function Layout Tool, a clever tool made from lightweight aluminum. It functions as a try square, miter square, bevel square, T-square, combination square and (in a pinch) a compass. You can read our full review here, and visit the company’s website here. Well, we have one, lightly used OmniSquare to give away (pictured above, and in the magazine!). […]
On the flip side, the temps on my porch the past few days have been in the middle 90's F (35C) and did that help the shelves to dry? Nay, nay moose breath, they are still clammy/tacky. This is un-f'ing'-believable. It has gotten less clammy/tacky but still has not gotten to that dry feeling to the touch. It has one more day to roast out there and then I'm covering it with poly.
|the ugly back|
|groove done on the tablesaw|
I could have done it with the plow plane but that would mean moving the fence and trying to widen an existing groove. I had tried doing something that many, many moons ago and that was dismal failure. When I got done it looked like I had hacked at the groove with a dull butter knife. I don't ever recall reading or seeing a you tube where someone tried to make and existing groove a wee bit wider in this manner.
|failed the bounce test|
|carcass isn't square|
|now it's square|
|got the cabinet square|
|something is wrong|
|dropped it again|
|added some helpers|
Turned the lights out and headed upstairs to the AC.
This event was held for the first time at Soldiers Field in Chicago on July 20, 1968. What was it?
answer - the first Special Olympics
The bedstead’s headboard is moving along. Once I had the first free-hand panel carved, it was easy to carve the 2nd one. After marking out the margins and a vertical centerline, I used a compass to take a few markers – here noting where the S-scrolls at the bottom corner hit the vertical margins.
Then I chalked in a rough outline for that shape. This panel, like many from this grouping (and all 4 in this headboard) have a stylized urn at the bottom center of the panel. That shape I marked out with a square & awl to locate its top & bottom, and marked its width from the vertical centerline. The S-scrolls then fit between the urn and the bottom corner/margin.
My camera-boy (Daniel, 11 yrs old) came by & used the Ipad to shoot some Instragram stuff…here’s some leftovers. Carving this bottom corner S-scroll, in two snippets. (home-video caliber – no edits, shaky, etc – but worth a look.)
there are related S-scrolls across the top section of the panel. These reach from the corners to the vertical centerline. These top and bottom sections are the first things I block in with the V-tool.
then comes the stuff between. I sketch the vein in the larger leaf, it reaches from the centerline to the margin.
Then I carry on, doing first one side, then the other.
The whole thing is about filling in the spaces, and in this case, blending one shape to lay against another.
Here’s the V-tool outline almost all done.
Next I take a #5 gouge, in this case about 1″ wide or slightly less, and chop out between the V-tool lines, to begin removing the background.
Some beveling, some shaping. With a narrow #5.
People ask about the background punch. Mild steel, filed to leave these pyramidal points.
accents with a few #7 gouges.
And a narrow chisel. Bevel towards the waste when chopping like this.
Then pare down to the chopped mark.
Bevel the back, first with a hatchet.
Then 2 planes. Feather down to nothing.
Here’s the headboard thus far. There will be plain panels below this, and a carved crest rail above. And of course, two vertical posts.
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is currently considering requiring “active injury mitigation” (AIM) technology on all table saws that, writes the Power Tool Institute (PTI) in a press release, would more than double the costs of these products. PTI is concerned that the price increase would make a table saw out of reach for many consumers, and contribute to job losses if makers are as a result able […]
The post Proposed Safety Rules for Table Saws – Your Comments Requested appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Flemish? Jacobean? Nope, Chad Stanton. To many, that name might mean making simple (but handsome) I Can Do That! projects from home-center lumber and tools as showcased in his video series – it’s a great way to get started in the craft…but it’s often a gateway to specialty woodworking tools and lumberyard stock. Turns out that if we give him more than 30 minutes to build and a full set of woodworking […]
In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Mike Mascelli is back to talk more on upholstery. Along with the longevity of good-quality furniture and upholstery work, Mike talks about the best woods to use for frames that are to be upholstered – it’s all about lumber that allows and holds tacks and staples. But you’re not giving up any structural integrity.
Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).
When I lived in Maine, I had a wide array of projects and furniture that I wanted to build for our house. When it became clear, however, that we were going to move down here to Covington, Ky., I put the designs and wood aside, not wanting to build a bunch of furniture only to pack it into a van and move it – lumber is easy to move, furniture […]
|fitting my second tongue|
|slightly out of square|
|some crud in the 90 to clean out|
|flat and straight|
|square to the face|
|marked and sawed it on the pencil line|
|the last one to be fitted|
|checking for square|
|off by a least a quarter of inch this way|
|cocked the clamps on one end|
|it fits both ways so I'm square|
|thinking of cutting this brush handle down|
|tighter squeeze for the spray cans side by side|
|this yields a bit more room|
|this was thought|
|this is a good sized cabinet for the shop and my finishing supplies|
|this is where it is going|
What does the latin phrase ex post mean?
answer - from behind, after the fact
For several years, I’ve been storing my photos on Photobucket.com. I never paid for it so I was willing to deal with the endless pop up ads every time I wanted to upload some of my photos for my blog. All was well until a few days ago when I noticed that the photos in my blog postings were being blocked. Apparently, Photobucket changed their user agreement and they will no longer support third-party hosting of any of the photos in their site. The only way to get the photos back is to pay a monthly subscription fee. Fat chance of that.
I was using Flickr several years before I switched to Photobucket because I ran out of free space. So, the very early blog posts should be fine for now until Flickr does the same thing. I liked Photobucket because even though I had 300 pictures stored on their site, I was only using 3% of free space on my account. Now I’m in a pickle. I assume I could download all my Photobucket photos onto a hard drive and import them back into blog posts, but that is a lot of work.
I noticed a few months ago that WordPress wouldn’t allow me to cut and paste directly from Photobucket onto my blog page. I had to start loading the image onto WordPress first. Now I know why, which is why my most recent posts are fine. The last working post is from four months ago when I smashed my finger. Every post after that until three years ago is blocked.
Thank God I don’t do this for a living! What a nightmare this must be for professional bloggers who blog two or three times a day. I read on Reddit about people who are in dire straits because of this.
For now, I’m going to start using Imgur.com for storing my photos. Maybe I’ll even buy an external hard drive and store my photos on that so this never happens again.
I’ve been busy with 360Woodworking. With my head down giving it what for, I didn’t see that Ridgid came out with a trim router powered by a battery until one of our members – thanks, Eric – brought it to my attention. My reaction was, “You Betcha.” I enjoy using the corded Ridgid trim router and to not have to pull electric cords around the shop sounded good, so I set about getting my hands on the new R86044B.
If you happened to see a pile of free stuff outside of a neighbor’s house, or on the side of the road, or on the sidewalk of a busy street, would you stop by and sort through it? If it were me, the answer would most likely be YES! And, I hope that by the time you finish reading this story you will join me in this mindset. It is […]
The post Treasure Hunting & the Restoration of a Starrett Sliding Bevel – Part 1 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Molly Bagby is an employee at Highland Woodworking who recently finished up a 2 Week Basic Woodworking course at Center for Furniture Furniture Craftsmanship (CFC). Although she grew up at Highland Woodworking from a mere 1 week old, her knowledge of woodworking skills is limited. With this class, she intends to change that.
As I mentioned in my previous blog, we delved right into Sharpening on Day 1. I quickly learned why Highland Woodworking has an entire section of the store dedicated to sharpening supplies. A lot of work goes into getting tools sharp, but a sharp tool really makes all the difference, especially when making joinery.
Peter Korn has an entire section on Sharpening in his book Woodworking Basics, which discusses each step of the process in detail. What he taught us in class are the same methods he discusses in his book, but here are the main steps I picked up from the process (as a side note, I had brought up a brand new set of 6 Narex Chisels, which in their description say “like most edge tools, they’ll need sharpening before use”…they forgot to mention the words “A LOT” but apparently that is the case for almost all new chisels, and even if they do come “pre-sharpened” you’ll still want to do a little bit more yourself to get them in “perfect” working condition.
Flattening the Back – Your goal in this part of the process is to flatten the back of the chisel.
- On the two sides of a 5×12 piece of glass, stick a long piece of 220 grit adhesive sandpaper.
- Rub the back of the chisel flat on the sandpaper by holding it down at a slight angle and move it back and forth to remove the factory marks from the top 1-2 inches of the chisel (I found that I had a hard time keeping the chisel flat…this necessity was stressed time and time again).
- Switch to a 1000 grit waterstone and continue flattening the back of the chisel, taking out the 220 sandpaper scratches.
- Switch to a 6000 grit waterstone and continue flattening until the back of the chisel has a shiny, mirror finish to it (i.e. once you can see your reflection in the back of the chisel).
-When sharpening on stones make sure you are using the whole length of the stone and are holding the chisel on the steel portion of it so that you are less likely to lift the handle and round the chisel back.
-Once you have flattened the back, you will no longer need to use the sandpaper or 1000 grit waterstone on the back of your chisel.
Honing the Front
Once the back is flat, it is time to hone the front of the chisel. First you want to make sure your chisel is ground down to a 26-30 degree bevel angle. Anything less than 25 degrees will fail. I found the grinding process on the electric grinder to be very technical and won’t go into the details of the grinding process, but there are some great YouTube videos that show this process.
After you have the proper angle from grinding, go back to the waterstones to get the perfect edge:
- Start on the 1000 grit waterstone and make sure the bevel edge is flat on the stone, with only the front edge making contact with the stone.
- Again, keeping the chisel as flat as possible on the stone is key in order to keep from misshaping the edge.
- Move the chisel back and forth on the stone (making sure to use the entire surface of the stone), applying downward pressure when pushing it forward and no pressure on the return back. I found that I had to go back and forth for several minutes and sometimes counted my strokes to help pass the time (I think I got to over 100 one time).
- Remove the burr that has been created on the back of the chisel on the 6000 grit stone.
- Repeat Steps 1-4 on the 6000 grit stone.
- Once your chisel is sharp enough to remove hair from your skin, it’s sharpened.
Congratulations! You now have a sharp chisel….maybe. Unfortunately, this was not the case the first few times I was going through the sharpening process and I found the entire process to be very frustrating, detail-specific, and I felt like I had no idea what the perfectly sharpened chisel was supposed to look like.
I compared the process to making a magic wand work. If it wasn’t perfect made, no magic would come out of it. If the chisel wasn’t sharp, it was not going to cut wood the way you wanted it to. I don’t actually believe in magic, which is why I found this comparison to be true…a magic wand will never actually work, and the sharpening process was so arduous that at times I felt like I was never going to get my chisel sharp enough.
But with a little lot of patience, time, and wet/flattened waterstones, eventually you will get your chisels sharp enough to start making joinery. Keyword=eventually. It wasn’t until midway through week 2 that I handed one of my chisels to Peter who was showing me a dovetail technique and he specifically said “wow, you’ve actually got a really sharp chisel!” That was probably one of the highlights of my time at CFC.
The post The Importance of Sharpening – Center for Furniture Craftsmanship appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
Following the recent Groopshop gathering at the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking I stuck around to teach a couple of one-day workshops. The first was “Veneer Repair” wherein I presented a group of techniques I’ve learned or created over the years. Having looked at an awful lot of historic furniture in my career, I think it is safe to say that the challenge of dealing with veneer damage and loss has been beyond the skill-set of a great many folks in the business. This is a topic of great interest to me, and since I’ve taught it many, many times, including last week, there seems to be interest in it. I am currently scripting out a video to shoot here in the coming winter with a young videographer living nearby.
My first order of business, a month before the class, was to make a set of near-identical “problem” boards for the students to work on. These were fairly good representations of the types of problems they will encounter.
For most losses a technique I created involves tracing precisely the damaged area onto a small piece of mylar or acetate that is taped to the adjacent background. Then I select and locate a piece of veneer that matches the surrounding background as best as possible. (I apologize for many of these pictures, I discovered ex poste that the camera was having a bad day, or perhaps it was the camera operator…)
The outline is transferred to the veneer via a piece of carbon paper (these are obviously not the same problem piece, but I think you get the idea)
The marked veneer is then mounted on a backing board with stick glue, and cut out with a jeweler’s saw.
If all goes well you get a perfect fit from the git go.
But sometimes the back side of the joint edge needs to be feathered with a small gouge to make it fit perfectly.
Once you have the grain and fit correct, you slather on some glue, overlay with a piece of cling wrap or mylar, and clamp with a plexi caul and the veneer repair is pretty much done. There is finish work yet to come, but that is another subject for another time.
A number of other techniques were taught, but I was so busy teaching that I forgot to take pictures of them. You’ll have to wait for the video, I guess.