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General Woodworking

Lixie Dead Blow Mallet Test – Some Fun in the Shop

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 11/15/2017 - 12:16pm

For an upcoming “Tool Test” in the February 2018 (#237) issue of the magazine, I reviewed the Lixie Dead Blow Mallet. While we’ll post the full mallet test when the magazine hits newsstands, we wanted to take the time first (before writing the review) to put the mallet to work out in the shop. Testing tools like this is one of the most enjoyable and valuable (to our readers) exercises […]

The post Lixie Dead Blow Mallet Test – Some Fun in the Shop appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Meet Goliath — A Portable Robotic CNC

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 11/15/2017 - 11:42am

As the Chinese curse goes, “may you live in interesting times.” Sometimes, “interesting times” is actually a good thing. In the case of CNCs, there are a lot of new ideas, methods and designs appearing for those interested in digital woodworking. In a short amount of time, we’ve seen several remarkable alternative CNC machines emerge. The Maslow CNC, a hanging CNC based on the design of wall plotters. The amazing […]

The post Meet Goliath — A Portable Robotic CNC appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

The Marquestry Plane Shows Up In England 1760-1780

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 11/15/2017 - 4:00am

In Febuary 2010 I wrote a three-part blog entry showing that the earliest illustrations and texts about the planes we call "mitre planes" were in the marquetry sections of various books. My theory was that these planes were most likely used for leveling and planing the surfaces of marquetry panels and materials. The exotic woods used in marquetry are sometimes very hard and can easily tear up the soles of any wooden plane. You can read my blog here, here, and here.

David Lundqvist, a woodworker who lives in Sweden, just sent me a "missing link" in support of my thinking. The painting above, called "Die Ebenisten" [The Marqueters], was painted by Elias Martin in England between 1768-80. The painting shows two marquetry journeymen, George Haupt and Christopher Frloh (anglicised as Furlong), working for John Linell in London. I'll talk in a moment about why two Swedish journeyman were in London, but first focus your eyes on the metal plane located pretty much in the middle of the painting.

I think this is the earliest contemporary image of what we now call a mitre plane in England, and it comes just before the period when plane makers such as Gabriel and Moon were entering the metal plane market. The plane itself doesn't look dovetailed and seems to follow the European technique of brazing the body to the sole; admittedly the scan I have isn't perfectly clear, so I am not positive about this. David's research on Swedish cabinet makers led him to this painting. David also found two contemporary citations of the phrase "Rabot du Ebniste," or "Marqueter's plane" -- not "plane of iron," the term that the few earlier references in marquetry tool pages use for these planes, nor "mitre plane," a later term that shows up around 1820. We finally have both visual proof and documentation that the plane was recognized as a marquetry plane, not a mitre plane. Well done, David!!!

Another interesting question is why two Swedish marquetry journeyman were in England in the first place. My assumption was that England at the time was starting its rapid economic expansion with the advent of the Empire and the Industrial Revolution. The country was growing in wealth and an attendant demand for European-trained craftsman to create fancy furniture for the country's nouveau riche. David took a different approach in answering this question. David observed that by the middle of the eighteenth century the closed guild system of crafts, which was still thriving in Continental Europe, was starting to vanish in England. The craft guilds - groups of master craftsman in England - still certified new masters and still gave a seal of approval, but no longer had the power, legal or otherwise, to restrict trade. They were mostly social societies for the richer craft classes. Anyone could be a cabinetmaker, and a cabinetmaker could set up shop and hire apprentices. The loosening of the guild restrictions allowed new ideas to mature, which attracted talented immigrants. New blood and ideas became established in England, along with employment and training for immigrants. Trained Swedish craftsman could find good work and advancement in England, and not have to fight to get guild permission back home.

The painting currently hangs in the National Museum in Stockholm.

another day added.........

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 11/15/2017 - 1:26am
One of the projects I'm finishing up is the box for Miles's nail sets. It is taking longer than I want but it isn't a project from hell. The way I am doing I have to wait and allow the adhesive of choice to set before I can proceed with the next hurry up and wait for the adhesive to dry. It is going to be at least one more day before it is done.

frog is almost done
I almost knocked this on the deck. I had forgotten I had it hanging out on the belt sander. When I picked up the sander to move it, I saw the frog at the last moment. I put the yoke back and I had to look at another plane to do it. I was putting it in backwards again. I used the sandpaper stick to clean the face of the frog of paint. All that is left to do on this is to put a shine on the lateral adjust lever.

I have gloves
I should have put the gloves on but I didn't. I have already cleaned my fingers with orange cleaner but I'll have to do better. All this black will end up on my nail box. I cleaned my hands with a blue scrubbie pad and Dawn dish washing detergent.

this doesn't have to be perfect
The banding I'm going to apply will hide this joint and it won't be seen. What I checked for was to make sure it was laying atop the bottom level all the way around. Gaps are ok as long as it sits the same both ways.

slight detour
I bumped the block plane storage shelf and moved it. I put some hide glue on the bottom of this and I'll try this first. If I have to, I can add a screw later.

the weight of the planes should apply sufficient pressure for this to set up
back to the nail set box
I marked the width of the piece I need with a pencil line. I did a pencil instead of a knife line so I would have a little extra to trim after the glue has set.

sawed at an angle
I am on the left side of the pencil line and sawing at an angle onto the waste side.

I can feel it sticking proud by a frog hair on both sides
cooking by the furnace
The temp is supposed to dip into the 20's over night (-4C) so this is the best spot for it in the shop.

adding a couple of more
These don't have to cook but should be kept with the top.  The square is set to the top of the banding and I have been know to use earmarked stock for other things before.  So the banding will be here too out of sight of my workbench.

plowed all my grooves
I sawed all the stock to the same width and then plowed all my grooves. I am checking them to ensure that they are done right. Done to depth and the walls square end to end.

used it out of the box
I didn't touch this up in any way before I plowed all the grooves. This is the way an iron should come from the maker. Ready to use out of the box. Now that I've used it, I will touch it up on the 8K stone and run it over my strop.

sawing my last miter
double checking
Checking to make sure the squares will fit. I was surprised by how well the box fits off the saw. I didn't make any attempt to try and saw the miters to the same length. I sawed each one on the corner and I doubt that I will ever get this lucky again.

90° corner 
I am liking this miter box and how well it does miters. They have rough faces but it doesn't stop it from making a 90° angle.

donkey ear jig
I was planning on using this to not only clean up and smooth the miter faces but to shoot them to length. It looks like all I'll have to do is clean and smooth the faces.

1950's vintage 1/4" plywood (it is a true 1/4" thick)
I'm glad I checked this. I thought 6mm plywood was a hair wider then a 1/4". I was wrong and it is a hair short of a 1/4".

got two coats on this today
I put one on before I left for work and the second one tonight. I'll try and repeat these dance steps tomorrow too. Once I have two more on, I'll wax this and call it ready to fill with candy.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the russian village of Verkhoyansk noted for?
answer - for having the widest temperature swing on earth,  -68°C/-90°F in the winter to 37°C/99°F in the summer

How It’s Made – A Trip to M. Bohlke Veneer

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 11/14/2017 - 12:16pm

I’m a “behind-the-scenes” junkie – any chance I get to see the inner workings of manufacturing or industrial spaces, I jump at the opportunity. So, I was especially thrilled to take a tour of M. Bohlke Veneer, a lumberyard and veneer mill in nearby Fairfield, Ohio (a 15 minute drive from the PopWood office) last week with Christopher Schwarz, Megan Fitzpatrick and Andy Brownell. M. Bohlke Veneer was founded in […]

The post How It’s Made – A Trip to M. Bohlke Veneer appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Highland Woodworking Featured in Voyage ATL Online Magazine

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 11/14/2017 - 9:39am

Highland Woodworking has just been featured in an interview on the Voyage ATL website as one of their picks for Midtown’s Rising Stars

The interview focuses on the evolution of Highland Woodworking, started by Chris and Sharon Bagby, who have been joined by their daughters, Kelley and Molly, in helping to run the family business.

We are honored to have been featured and we thrive to continue supporting our Atlanta community and the woodworking community throughout the world by providing quality woodworking education and customer service.

Karyn and Tom Lie-Nielsen of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks pictured with Chris, Kelley, and Molly Bagby

The post Highland Woodworking Featured in Voyage ATL Online Magazine appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

How to Sharpen Hand Saws for Woodworking

Wood and Shop - Tue, 11/14/2017 - 9:19am
How to Sharpen Hand Saws for Woodworking By Tom Calisto & Joshua Farnsworth In the above video I filmed hand saw maker Tom Calisto sharing a tutorial on how to sharpen new and antique hand saws for woodworking. Sharpening hand saw teeth is a skill that takes time to develop, but a suitable


Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 11/14/2017 - 1:01am
English translation - finished. The project from hell is done or what I should say is that I am done working on it for now. I may be revisiting this in the future. As for 'fini', it is about the only french I remember. I took it for a few years in high school and I know that word and how to ask how are you. I wanted to learn italain and got put in a french class. I think I can still count up to 49 if I concentrate.

I'll have to remember about the pullout
I didn't do anything to secure the block plane holder to the cubby. If I have to do something I'll secure it with hide glue. For now the weight of it seems to be holding it in place.

epoxy has set up
Turns out that it was a good idea to epoxy the sides as one piece. Certainly made it very easy to flush the sides top to bottom. I only had to do one side as I epoxied this with one side flush.

sawed it apart
Had a difficult time sawing this apart. I should have used the zona saw to do this thin wood.

flushing the proud on the ends
I came in from both sides upwards and then I went across the long way. It worked and I didn't get any blowouts.

Of course it was the last stroke that popped this off. I was leery of this one because I could see a gap on one end. It popped off when I went across the long way. I sanded the two, applied more epoxy, and taped it in place. I set it by the furnace to cure overnight. Looks like I will have to add another day to this.

I'll be able to do lid banding tomorrow
 I plan on wrapping this 360 so that the top will slide over the bottom. That means I will have a cross grain gluing sandwich on the sides. The pieces are thin and a 1 1/4" wide so I don't think that it will be a problem.

hammer is done
4 coats of shellac with the last one rubbed down with 4-0 steel wool. Fini. Stowed in his toolbox.

continuous grain flow
This is the corner where the opposite ends came together. Still got a pretty good match.

the opposite corner
I like this grain flow around the box. This is not my first attempt at this but it is my first time getting it right.

last corner
You can see and follow the grain around the box. This was something that I thought would be difficult to pick out. To my eye, the grain flowing around the corners is readily apparent. I will try this on my future boxes.

This has four coats of shellac and I will put on about 3-5 more before I wax it and call it done. I'll fill this with candy and give it as a xmas present. I will have to make one more for xmas and fill with a different candy.

layout for the square till box
I have about a 1/4" of extra meat on the width. I'll lose that tomorrow.

ready for grooving almost
I planed one edge square to a reference face. I cleaned up that face with a couple of swipes with the 4 1/2. I'll let these sticker again tonight and tomorrow I'll plow the 6mm grooves. I normally wouldn't do this without having the plywood but I'm taking a shot on it being ok. The 3/8" plywood I got from woodcraft is 9mm if I remember right. So I'm counting on the 1/4" being 6mm.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is an Aulos?
answer - an ancient Greek single or double reed wind instrument usually played in pairs

Washington Campaign Desk Day 4

The Slightly Confused Woodworker - Mon, 11/13/2017 - 2:00pm

My favorite part of any furniture project is the point when a solution has been found to a challenge. It’s a figurative crossing of the “hump” which then signifies hopefully smooth sailing moving forward. This past Saturday I crossed that hump.

The bad news first. The temperatures in the area dropped well below freezing, and though that is not unheard of in my neck of the woods, it is uncommon for this time of year. So after I returned home from work on Saturday the first thing I did was check on the desk top panel. The panel is just fine, but the breadboard end with the issue was not looking so good. The underside developed a split that was instantly noticeable. Maybe the cold exaggerated it, but at that point I didn’t care, so the instant decision was made to saw off both of those bread board ends, which I did using the table saw and a cross-cut sled. I understood it meant losing a few hours of work, but I know the decision was the correct one because I felt no real remorse then or now, and rather than dwelling on it, I moved on to putting together the leg assemblies.

The leg assemblies posed a bit of a challenge, at least to me they did. Firstly, I wanted them to appear as if they could fold up, so I could not ship lap them together, though that in some ways may have been easier. The dilemma was attaching them to the cross cleats, which sounds simple but was a bit complicated.

The issue was the offset of the legs. Because the legs were not ship-lapped, one side of the leg would obviously offset, in this case ¾ of an inch. So my solution was to make a filler board to make up the gap made by the offset. At that, I wanted the board to match the angles and width of the cleat board as closely as possible, so I spent a good deal of time clamping and measuring. Once I was as sure of myself as I was going to get, I made the cuts, planed it to final size and started drilling holes for the quarter inch hardware I purchased for the project. I won’t lie, those first couple of holes were nerve-wracking, because a mistake would cost me several more hours of work, but once I got moving things went relatively smoothly. It took more than two hours, but in the end I had a finished leg assembly.

Sunday morning I started on the second assembly, and using lessons learned from the previous night’s experience, I had it finished and ready to attach in under an hour, so rather than leaving those two assemblies on top of the workbench, I did just that attached them to the desktop using some angle brackets. I hadn’t planned to do an assembly to be honest, but curiosity got the best of me. The good news is that so far it looks pretty good. Admittedly, I was a little disappointed that the breadboard ends needed to be removed, but it doesn’t look bad in my opinion. But the better news is the fact that the legs all sit level with the ground. Generally, when making a table, there is usually a bit of wobble. As of right now the table sits nicely, and when I placed a level on the top I found it dead flat. At that, the table does rock a bit back and forth, but considering it is not permanently attached to the top yet, and considering the leg assemblies haven’t been joined together yet with any cross bracing, that was to be expected.

IMG_2925 (002)

Not too bad…I will post a photo of the undercarriage once it is permanently attached and “safe”

IMG_2631 (002)

A photo I came across of the campaign table and writing desk at Washington’s HQ in Valley Forge Park




Lastly, I removed the assembled table from my garage and placed it in the family room, where I think it will be much safer. Over the years, I’ve found out the hard way that leaving unassembled furniture projects in my garage is a recipe for disaster. Maybe it’s gremlins; I don’t know, but whatever it is my projects seem to take a beating if they sit in the garage for too long, so I was taking absolutely no chances. In any event, the cat seems to like it, because as soon as I brought it inside the house she promptly hopped onto it, sprawled out, and took a nap.

Next weekend I will mill down another board to use for the cross bracing as well as the desktop drawer unit. Thankfully, I already have the drawer unit finalized in my mind, so the construction should have no unwanted surprises. So with a little luck I could quite possibly have a desk ready for finish a week from now.

On another note, some of you (or none of you) may be wondering why I did not post last week. Well, I had the very good fortune to go to Washington DC and not only take a tour of the White House, but to visit Mount Vernon as well. The Mount Vernon trip was not planned, it just happened to fall into place, and because I had not been able to go there last time I was in DC, I made it a priority. I will only say of the trip that I was completely blown away. The furniture examples in Mount Vernon alone are beyond description, and I would have taken photos, but they are not allowed inside the house itself. And because I believe that rules are a good thing (they are hardly “for fools” as some in the woodworking world would claim) I did not attempt any, and instead purchased a very nice book with photos that are much better than those I would have taken anyway.

IMG_2918 (002)

Posing with my daughter and niece in front of a tree believed to have been planted during the time of George Washington at Mount Vernon.

My family, who was skeptical about the Mount Vernon visit in part because the day was cool, cloudy, and damp, was nonetheless blown away. My daughter in particular was completely awestruck. But the highlight, for all of us, was visiting the final resting place of George and Martha Washington and paying our respects. When I say that this trip was beyond inspirational and much more of a spiritual experience, I am understating to the highest degree. Upon leaving Mount Vernon, my admiration of George Washington, which was already immense, grew even greater. And more than ever I am committed to making this desk to the highest level I possibly can.

IMG_2909 (002)

The final resting place of George and Martha Washington.




Categories: General Woodworking

Finishing Workshop @ CW – Asphalt Glazing

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 11/13/2017 - 6:19am

We are not the first woodworkers who ever wanted to tweak the coloration of our pieces; the ancients routinely augmented their work with the addition of colorants to both unify overall tonality and accentuate details.  Among the most common colorants of the past were asphalt, that useless contaminate that percolated up from the ground, and pitch, which is the residue from the fractional distillation of pine sap into turpentine solvent and colophony resin.

For this workshop I showed and the CW crew used asphalt as a toning glaze.  My source for this was some non-fibered parging tar left over from the barn basement construction.  The three gallons I have left are all I and a thousand friends need for decades.  I thin the asphalt with mineral spirits, and occasionally add a bit of boiled linseed oil.

The asphalt glaze can be applied to the surface and manipulated with bristle brushes to achieve an overall uniform appearance.  For carved surfaces it could be applied the same way with the highest points rubbed with rags to remove the colorant and emphasize the three-dimensionality of the surface.

Asphalt can be overcoated with shellac as soon as it is dry to the touch.

Using Salvaged Wood: Part Two

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 11/13/2017 - 2:00am

The beloved backyard tree No store-bought lumber’s story can compete with that of boards from your own backyard. It can be wrenching to fell a beloved tree, but transforming it into a piece of furniture helps dull the pain by giving an old friend new life. Working with lumber from backyard trees tends to be far more labor-intensive than with wood that was commercially grown. Commercial lumber comes from forest […]

The post Using Salvaged Wood: Part Two appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

the project from hell....

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 11/13/2017 - 1:08am
For something I anticipated taking maybe a couple of days to do and most of that time waiting on glue to dry, this project still isn't done. I thought things were coming together and I would be wrapping this one up and thinking of what was next. Instead of that, today was one hiccup after another to be dealt with. I was able to deal with them but I sure wish this project was done. But it ain't, but it is awfully close now. And I don't see any major hiccups on the horizon blocking me from the winner's tape.

first hiccup
The holder for the 073 is hitting one of the stops. It clears the one on the right but I can't place it so it'll pass between the two of them.

removed a stop
The 073 holder is clear now and I can open and shut the shelf. I don't like the one stop due to the weight of the tools on this. One screw is all that holds the stops in place and if I get ham fisted and slam this open, the weight could pull that stop out of the side. I would not be a happy camper then nor would I have a smiley face on. I went back to both stops and trimmed the 073 holder to fit inbetween them.

nail set box
The epoxy on the sides had set up after spending the night beside the furnace. I trimmed the top and bottom pieces flush with the 102.

what's left to do
I need to epoxy the oak onto the sides and then the lid banding can be glued on with yellow glue. It'll be a least 2 more days before this will be done.

the epoxy comes first
I will epoxy the sides with one piece of oak. I put a scrap piece between the top and bottom to separate them. I'll use that gap to saw out the two parts.

double duty
Using the bench hook to keep things aligned while the epoxy sets up.

back to working the stops
I had to take a break from this and do something else. I got the 073 holder trimmed so it fits between the two stops. There isn't much room to spare, but it opens and closes without hitting them.

After I got this fixed I ran into two more hiccups with the 073 holder. The first was I initially screwed the holder too close to the edge plane holder. I had done that without the edge plane in the holder. Once the plane was in it I saw I was up too close to it with the 073.

So I moved the holder and I hit snag #3. The screws were sticking out of the bottom of the shelf and hitting the front brace. I could open and close it but I could feel the screws dragging on the front cross brace. I left the screws in place and filed the points off with a file.

hiccup #4
The iron adjuster knob is hitting the side here and  I need to make a relief for it.  But wait, the fun with this is just starting.

#5 - making a relief for the handle to clear the side
#6 - the pic says it all
I could open and close the drawer but the knob and the handle were dragging on the side. FYI - chiseling plywood sucks.

3 frog hairs of clearance
no knob or handle
I have a finger grab recess on both sides so I don't need anything else to pull the shelf out with.

took the easy way out
I put up with the noise and dust this spit out and flushed the 3 sides of the cubby.

Houston we are almost in double digit problem land
Problem #8 upcoming. Here I'm checking if the cubby will tilt down with the shelf out and it does. I secured the cubby to the workbench shelf with four screws. Two in each cross brace.

hiccup #8
I can't get the edge plane out with the shelf extended as far as it can open. Even if I cut it down to lower the height of it, I still wouldn't be able to get it out. No problems taking the 073 out or putting it back.

The final hiccup, #9, is I had to take out the stops. With them gone I can pull the drawer out far enough and get access to the edge plane.  The downside is there is nothing to stop the shelf and the tools on it from playing the bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor.  I tried to place the stops closer to the opening but it wasn't helpful at all. If I place the stops as far forward as I can I still don't have access to the edge plane. I will have to live with this as is and try to remember I can't pull it out all the way.

block plane storage idea
This is what I wanted to do yesterday but I had to do the battery dance steps instead. The idea is to put all the planes at an incline to make them easier to grab. Plus I think it looks better than having them horizontal.

road testing Miles's hammer
This is a 9 ounce hammer and mine is the one I use the most. I almost never use my 16 ounce hammer in the shop. This one has an ok balance and hammered these brads with no problems. I don't see Miles not having lots of fun nailing and gluing scraps together with it.

made dividers for the block planes
dry fit looks and felt good
After this is complete I will saw off some of the left side overhang. I want to pull the right side away from the leg as grabbing that blockplane was a bit tight.

last divider dado needed some help
I glued in a piece of veneer to tighten up the last dado.

dividers glued, clamped, and cooking
first coat of  shellac on Miles's hammer
I like the fact that this hammer was once mine and that I was able to fix it and pass it on to him.

plane stop for the violin plane
The radius on both pieces matches the toe on the plane.

I'll glue these two together

then I'll glue it here
This will put the heel of the plane at the top end of this inline with the other four.

the 103 is longer
I assumed that the 102 and the 103 were the same size but I was wrong.

my OCD kicked in here
I can't have the 103 sticking out farther than the other planes. I had to put a filler at the front of the dividers of the 102 and 103 to get them to line up with their bigger siblings on the right. I put a rabbet on the 103 filler.

laid out a rabbet and chiseled it out
doing a small one is just like doing a big one
The heel on the 103 was still sticking out a bit too far. So I chiseled a radius in the middle of the rabbet to match the toe radius of the 103.

the 103 toe is buried a bit
 I glued these in place and I'll flush them tomorrow. That will give me some time to think of a way to secure this to the cubby.

cleaned and squared up
I'll wait for this
The dividers are flush at the front where they are visible but they all aren't flush at the back. The back stop for the planes is only glued to the 1/2" plywood. I want to give this a day in the clamps to fully set up.

3 coats of shellac on the box
This will be dry tomorrow for sure. I'll steel wool it and wipe it off. It will go into Miles's toolbox then and I'll call it done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is nikhedonia?
answer - the pleasure from anticipating success or a victory (or finally finishing a project from hell)

it's a wee bit chilly.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 11/12/2017 - 2:20am
Winter has finally arrived. The past few days have been cold with this morning being the coldest so far. It was a frosty 25°F (-3.8°C) at oh dark thirty this AM. No frost on the cars but on Tuesday, I noticed the first frost of the year then. A quick peek at the weather seer's web page says that the daytime temps next week will be in the high 40's to low 50's with the nighttime temps hovering around freezing (0°C). On bright side, it hasn't snowed yet.

Things were going so well in the shop today that something had to go wrong it seemed. I was motoring along and things were looking good until I went to get chinese for lunch. The battery in the truck went south when I tried to go home. So what could I do? I went back into the chinese place and ate my lunch. They have a couple of tables there but I have never seen anyone eating in there before.

FYI - batteries ain't cheap. The last battery I remember buying was a Sears diehard and I think I ponied up $50 for it. I was looking on line to see what the prices were and I almost had an involuntary bowel movement. Let's just say batteries don't sell in the $50 range anymore. Starting prices for my truck are $140 and go up from there. One thing I noticed was that no matter the price the warranty on them was still only 3 years.

Got my replacement battery ($173) swapped out without any problems. I think I was heading for a battery explosion with the old one. It had bulged out on all 4 sides with ends being the worse. The car parts store gave me back $18 when I gave them the old battery. Don't remember getting $$$$ from the last time.

this has cured
Last night the last thing I did in the shop was to size the ends of these two pieces of stock. These are the bases for the bullnose and tenon planes.

Amazon prime isn't two day
I assumed that anything I bought prime would come in two days.  I ordered these sanding belts on the 6th and they came on the 10th. I read the terms and it basically said Amazon will decide and ship when and what they feel like doing. I bought metal 4x36 sanding belts in grits from 80 up to 400. I hope these are an improvement over the woodworking ones I got from Harbor Freight.

bought a piece of crap
I turned down a Nicholson 4-in-one from HD for this. I was leery about buying anything Nicholson but that one was way better looking than this China made piece of total crappola.

kind of worked
I might be biased against this but I got the impression that it worked better pulling it back then pushing it forward. Didn't change my opinion of it nonetheless. I was going to put this in Miles's toolbox but I can't do that now. This will most likely end up in the shop shitcan.

this 4-in-one is mine
I'll be giving this to Miles instead. This is from my carpenters toolbox but I have never used it in the shop.

nail sets and a center punch for Miles's toolbox

I was hoping that I would get to this today

figured out my drawer stop problem and it starts with these two pieces of oak
drawer guides
These two will keep the shelf level and from tipping down. This was another headache I was trying to find a pill for. I will screw these to the sides.

screwed in place and the shelf is extended
There isn't the weight of all the tools on this but at this extension, the cubby is still laying down on the workbench. The stops for the shelf are in the batter's circle.

cheap plywood
I planed a bevel on the back and then sanded it roundish. This will help with it not hanging up and letting it ride over the back brace as it is pushed in.

first part of the drawer stop system
A strip of oak glued to the back of the shelf.

Miles's hammer almost done
I pulled off the stickers and scraped off the finish that was on it. I sanded it with 120 grit and after a couple of coats of shellac it will be done.

this side doesn't have the grain of the opposite side
needs to stowed better than this
I started to make something to stow these in while the drawer stop sets up for an hour or so.

what I came up with
The holes for the sets are 11/32nds and the holes in the top are 3/8". I thought that would make up for the waviness in my drilling of the holes for the sets. It didn't help.

1/2" pigsticker fixed it
I barely touched this
I was already down into the mortise with a 3/8" chisel and pushed against this end of the mortise with the backside of the chisel. I wasn't levering against, just pushing. I was down into the mortise almost to the bottom of it too. When I did that, this popped out.

fits now, both ways
glued it with rapid fuse
got to use my big chamfer bit
This one clogged too but not as fast or as bad as the smaller one.

ripped up some oak veneer
 Thicker piece will be used for the lid banding and the thinner one for the rest of the box.

I am applying the oak veneer to all of them thin sides
The top and bottom of the box is long grain and the sides are end grain. I want to hide that because I think it detracts from the rest of the box. While this glue was setting I went back to working on the plane cubby

part two of the shelf stop system
how it will work
The oak strip I glued to the back of the shelf will hit this and stop any further forward motion of the shelf.

a backer so I can saw off my individual stops
I decided to do the back strip this way to ensure accuracy. This is marked off of the shelf guides and I didn't have to measure it.

The stops are only screwed to the sides, no glue. I may have to repair them or change the shelf arrangement in the future.

mistake - replaced the 1" brass screws with 1 1/4" screws
all five the screws came through
The two screws at the front made it all the way into the front brace. Shelf couldn't go in or out. And yes I did check the screw against this and it looked to be shorter then thickness.

had to do it
I didn't want to glue this but I had no choice. I went back to the brass screws but they weren't too secure. Hide glue will make this reversible and the screws have enough bite to hold it until the glue sets.

it works
I have the shelf fully extended and the cubby is still in place.  I think once I get the two holders in place for the tenon and bullnose plane, this will tip up and on to the deck. This will definitely need to be secured to the workbench shelf.

front molding
This is mostly to hide the end grain of the shelf and the front brace. I will cover the vertical plywood edge too. This piece of wood will also give my a place to put a knob or a handle on it.

need a shallow rabbet - made it with the 140
didn't forget this time
Ran the marking gauge to clean up the back wall and deepen the knife line.

while the molding glue sets up
I filed the 12" square on the inside and the outside until both of them were square when checked against drawing parallel lines.

6 tries and I'm getting close
I kept my filing as light and for as short of a distance as I could. From the first reading I could tell that I had to file at the heel.

got it
The lines look to be parallel from the bottom to the top without any deviation. Since the eye can detect a difference as small as a thousandth of  an inch, and I don't see that, I'm calling this good. This was the inside of the square. The next batter is the outside.

the outside edge
The lines converge at the top which means the heel needs to knocked back some.

same here as the inside
I took a few filings and checked it. I tried to keep my filing strokes short and not be in a hurry.  Filing off too much off would make the square go in the opposite direction.

In spite of my care and going slow I did switch the error on the lines. After the 3rd filing, the lines were going away from each other outwards at the top. I had to file a bit at the toe before I got my two parallel lines. I didn't check or try to make the inside and outside of the blade parallel.

layout for the square till
I do not want these to be hanging out loosely in the toolbox and banging around against all the other tools in there. It won't be good for the tools or the squares. I only have one more square to get to call this complete and that is a 4" sliding square, preferably a Starrett. I will squeeze that in here somewhere, somehow.

pretty close to my lunchtime doodle
The lines on this are the ID as that is what I was concerned with getting. I also wanted the two halves of this to be the same size. I bought 2 sheets of 6mm plywood today and I'll have it next week sometime. That will be used for the panel in each half.

I am also making it out of 3/4" thick pine. I am going with 3/4" because I can't find a decent hinge for 1/2" stock that is worth more than a thimble full of belly button lint.

stock for the square till
I'll let this sticker for a few days and then I'll start the joinery on it. This is going to be a mitered box that I will glue up as box and then saw it in half. I'm mitering it because of the 6mm plywood panels I'm putting in it. The panels will strengthen the miters and they will make it easy to plow the grooves for the panels.

the next to last operation for today
I epoxied the ends and used yellow glue for the sides.

glued and cooking
the last thing I did before the lights were shut off
I sized the end grain on the nail set box and set it by the furnace. Tomorrow after this has cured I will epoxy on the oak veneer.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the US Air Force Academy located?
answer - Colorado Springs, Colorado

Digital Artistry — Meet the Artists from the December 2017 Issue

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sun, 11/12/2017 - 2:00am

How five masterful makers integrate CNC and CAD technology into their woodworking In the December 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine, the article, Digital Artistry is a peek at what five professional woodworkers are doing with digital tools in their shops. Each maker has an extensive traditional woodworking background and many years of experience before they began to use digital tools like CAD software and CNC machines. As I pointed out […]

The post Digital Artistry — Meet the Artists from the December 2017 Issue appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

made some progress.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 11/11/2017 - 2:20am
The sliding shelf for the cubby still doesn't have a design. In spite of that I did make a lot of good progress on it. I'm sure that when it comes to crunch time I'll do something on the spur of the moment. The shelf itself isn't the holdup, it's how to stop it from being pulled out fully. I can't have it come out all the way but it still has to come out far enough for me to get to the tools at the back. Right now a small block of wood and a screw has me captive.

back clamped dry and square
Houston, we have a problem
The cross braces don't protrude the same distance on this side. Both braces are the same length and they are flush on the other side. They should therefore be sticking out on this side the same. I think the problem is this side is toeing inward. The braces are over sized in the length so I knew I would have to trim them to length.

checked the back for squareness
The back looked good and the rabbet joint appeared to be snug fitting so I marked the distance between the sides.

the front is off 3/8" from the back
now it's the same
This stick is a 1/4" longer then the back measurement and it is square cut on the right and angled on the left. This sets up a wedging action that is also self supporting. I set the opening at the front to match the back and marked the cross braces.

my notches need some help
Three of my notches were a frog hair too deep. I cut out some veneer and that was what I needed to flush the braces with the bottom of the sides.

cut out all the veneer with the new marking knife
The cross grain cuts took just a couple of extra swipes but they came out as clean as the long grain ones.

glued, nailed and screwed together
I didn't want to wait for the glue to set up. By screwing it I could keep on working on it.

good on the F/B and S/S
I'm up tight to the leg and I have about 3/8" on the left between the side and the #3 plane area. At the back where the #8 lives there is about 1 1/2" of extra space. No worries there with it falling on the deck.

cut and fitted the shelf gliders (?)
Not sure what to call these things. Their purpose is too support the shelf as I pull it out and push it in.

initial layout
I added the edge plane to the pull out shelf.

first change
This was dictated by the edge plane. When I first got this about 5 years ago I used it constantly to square edges. I was still struggling with planing square edges with hand planes then.  Now I can plane square edges so the use of the edge plane has fallen off dramatically. I use it now mostly for thin edges. So sticking it at the back of the shelf is a no brainer.

top shelf layout
everything fits
The dogs aren't going to be a problem. The front edge of the cubby is behind them. Except for when one is hanging down and I slam my hand into it reaching for a block plane.

a slight PITA
I can reach and grab this from the front but I have to bend over to do it. A better way to do it is to grab it from the back of the bench.

screwed the top onto the sides
This won't be staying here. I will remove it when it comes time to screw the braces to the workbench shelf. It'll be a lot easier doing it sans the top shelf then using a ratchet screwdriver in a dark, cramped cubby. Once the braces are secured I'll screw the top back on.

have some flushing to do
The piece of plywood I used for the top only had one straight edge and I used that at the front. I'll plane the 3 hand sawn, uneven edges flush after I'm done with this.

making a holder for the edge plane
This is a necessity I think because it'll be on a sliding shelf. Wouldn't do to have this flopping around as it goes in/out.

drilled out most of the waste
I cleaned this side pocket with the hand router.

the top I evened out with the chisel

hadn't thought this far ahead
Made it with an 1/8" to spare.

I have extra
I have about 3/4" that I can saw off and drop the height. I will leave it as is for now and see if it presents any problems.

I still have  it
This surprises me a lot that I have not lost this. I have had this for almost 5 years. It is the allen wrench for the set screws on the iron.

exploded view of the bullnose holder
I am thinking of putting this together with epoxy on the ends and yellow glue on the sides. That will mean adding another day(s) for this to cure out.

same holder design for the 073
I used oak for all the parts on the both of these holders. I have an idea for the block plane storage that I'll work on this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How many US Presidents had no children of their own?
answer - five Washington, Polk, Harding, Buchanan, and Jackson

Marine Corps to Shop Floor

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 11/11/2017 - 2:00am
Grant Burger Woodworking

Time served funds a maker’s pursuit of woodworking happiness. With most things in life, you either pay with your time or your money. Say you want to build a box using 3/4 black walnut. You have three options: Buy boards milled to fi nal thickness from a lumberyard (least time, most money); purchase rough-sawn 4/4 boards to mill yourself (more time, less money); or fell a walnut tree, have a […]

The post Marine Corps to Shop Floor appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: Hand Tool Basics

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 11/10/2017 - 6:30am
Hand Tool Basics

I recently received advance copies of “Hand Tool Basics,” a new book by Steve Branam, hand tool instructor and author of the Close Grain blog. If you’re interested in incorporating more hand tools into your woodworking, but have felt overwhelmed by the prospect of learning how to use them, this book is a great visual guide to get you started. Step-by-step photos and instructions guide you through everything from sharpening tools to […]

The post Book Giveaway: Hand Tool Basics appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Howard adjusters.......

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 11/10/2017 - 1:20am
Last week I ordered a Howard adjuster for the LN 60 1/2 block plane and one for the LN 102 small block plane. The Howard adjusters make for a positive, silky smooth advance and retraction of the iron. I've had one on my LN big block plane for a few years and I have nothing but praise for it. Both of the them came in today. I just ordered them and they came to me from the other side of the world. I don't get some things this quick from states next door to me. I hadn't planned on getting them for several weeks.

It is not quite 11,000 miles (about 17,700 km)  from my house to where these are made in Australia. It took a week to get here and that includes clearing customs in two countries.

shiny brass - what could be better than this
up for grabs
I don't need these adjusters anymore. If anyone needs one, drop me an email with an address and I'll send it to you.

replacing the LN 102 adjuster knob
I use this small plane a lot. I am not sure that I'll be using the bigger LN more in it's place but we'll see. I'll have the both of them side by side once the cubby is done. I think the size of the job will dictate which one gets the love.

I didn't get one for the LN 103 which is the standard angle small block plane. I don't use it much and it has gotten even less use since I bought the LN 102.

it is hard to see the split on the right

hack saw
The instructions say to remove the proud with a hacksaw. Makes sense as the teeth of this aren't effected that much by the hammer head. A wood saw would have scratched the head and possibly damaged the teeth. The hacksaw went through this, slowly, but without any headaches.

not happy with the gaps

metal wedges are next
The instructions state that the metal wedges be installed perpendicular to the wooden wedge. The drawing shows them at a 45°. I think that is because the appear to be too big to be installed at a 90°.

metal wedges installed
I offset the wedges intentionally because I wanted to try to close up some of the gaps. I did ok but there is still one small gap at the lower right of the eye. I used 100 grit sandpaper to clean up the eye and then sanded the rest of the head to shine it up a bit.

sealing the top of the eye with some lacquer
The instructions say to do this to seal the top of the eye. I wouldn't have done it if I hadn't read it in the instructions.

can you hand plane rabbets in plywood?
 I'm about to find out and I have 6 different planes I can pick and chose to do them with.

picked the 140
The iron is sharp and it is sailing through this ply with the grain going in the short direction. The planing slowed down some when the ply grain direction changed but the plane was still making shavings.

pretty good for plywood
The outside shoulder isn't clean down into the 90°. I didn't use the nicker on the plane and I forgot to use the marking gauge to cut the fibers as I planed. I cleaned this up with a chisel.

rabbet #2
Hit a snag on this one. The 140 didn't like this knot and was riding up and over it. I tried pressing down on it more in this area without any luck. It was still skimming right over the knot.

this didn't skim over it.
It skipped and skimmed on the first two stokes but after I set the iron a bit heavy it chewed up the knot and spit it out.

sometimes you get lucky
I had eyeballed the length of the back yesterday and tonight I fully expected to have to cut off some extra. I have about a 1/4" strong of clearance total on both sides of the cubby.

no problems sawing this
I did my saw cuts so that the inside of the side was facing away from me. This way the chipping and blowouts on the exit will be on the inside of the cubby.

you can chop plywood cleanly
I chopped the pockets at the back just like it was solid wood. I sawed off the front notch and squared and cleaned it up with a chisel.

left notch is snug and this one is loose
This isn't that important although I was shooting to get both of them snug. These will be glued and screwed in place. I will then just screw these to the plywood shelf on the workbench holding the cubby in place.

I will be sawing excess off the cross braces
I will clamp the back in place dry and square it . I can then flush one end of one brace to a side and mark the length on the other one. Still haven't come up with a sliding shelf design I like. It is proving to be a wee bit harder than I anticipated it being. Part of the headache with it is figuring out the stop and putting the shelf in the cubby after it has been screwed to the plywood shelf on the workbench. Maybe inspiration will hit me tomorrow before I get home from work.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was the first railroad in the United States?
answer - the Baltimore and Ohio was the first railroad to transport freight and passengers in 1827

Video: Joinery in Curvy Furniture

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 11/09/2017 - 8:48am
curvy joinery

Curvy furniture is great to look at and usually offers a tactile aesthetic that makes it appealing. Holding it all together is the joinery – and whether it’s dovetails, tenons or lap joinery, creating that joinery on a curve adds a new level of complication. Whether made by hand or by machine, most of our training on making joinery starts with having flat and square stock to start with. We use reference […]

The post Video: Joinery in Curvy Furniture appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

More With RECO-BKLYN’s Roger Benton – 360w360 E.257

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 11/09/2017 - 4:10am
More With RECO-BKLYN’s Roger Benton – 360w360 E.257

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, Roger Benton, co-owner of Re-Co BKLYN (recobklyn.com), spends more time with us. During the discussion, he talks more about his design ideas and what jazzes him about his work. We also hear a great story about an incident about which many of us could relate.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.

Continue reading More With RECO-BKLYN’s Roger Benton – 360w360 E.257 at 360 WoodWorking.


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