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General Woodworking

How to Carve Drawer Pulls by Hand

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 3:00am

There comes a time in every project with doors and drawers called “pull-gatory,” when the struggle of sticking something onto the front of the beautiful piece you’ve just made grinds progress to a halt. I’ve been there a few times, and I’m there now with a little wall cabinet that I’m in the process of finishing. Time to think about drawer pulls. When I get to this point, I try […]

The post How to Carve Drawer Pulls by Hand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

till fitted......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/16/2017 - 1:04am
The last two days have seen a return of some humidity. Today was a little higher than yesterday was. I know this because tonight I sweated up a storm and last night I didn't. We are entering my second favorite part of the year. Nice crisp days and cool nights are coming soon. This part of the year everything is getting ready to go to sleep until my absolute favorite season, spring returns. I bitch about the changing seasons but I know I would miss them if I moved to Hawaii or some other place like that.

The fitting of the till went off without any hiccups in spite of me soaking my T-shirt. I'm regretting now that I didn't stop and get the 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I could have glued it on tonight and moved on to making the moving tills to put into it. I'll get the plywood first thing in the AM. What kind of sucks is I have three 4' x 4' pieces of underlayment plywood. But this stuff isn't meant to be used for drawer/box bottoms. They will do for cabinet backs but not for my till bottom.


solid wood bottom
There are too many pieces to this. I am not a fan of multiple boards for a bottom or for any other kind of glued up 'panel'. One way to do this is to use three equal width boards and ship lap them to form the bottom. The bottom is roughly 12" so I would have to account for some expansion. Since the till is a tight fit, I don't have the wiggle room to allow a solid wood bottom.


tantalizing close
The 3 small pieces on the right are all about an inch too narrow. In spite of the expansion hiccup, I tried to get this to work. I put the wide boards on each long side and the smaller piece in the middle. Without the rabbets for the ship laps, it was a 1/2" too short. Plywood wins because I don't have to allow for expansion/contraction.


idea #1
This was the forerunner for me but now that I can see it, I'm not liking it as much. Use your imagination and see plywood filling the whole bottom. The piece of pine is 1/2" thick and 3/4" wide. The idea was to 1/2 lap a notch into the two sides. Then glue and screw it to the plywood bottom. That would split the bottom span in half and make it better able to handle the load of tools in it. What I don't like about it is division it makes. Doing this divides the bottom of the till into two 12" x 12" plats of real estate.

idea #2
Again you'll have to use your imagination to see the plywood covering the bottom. The braces will be a 1/2" thick and about 3/4" wide. I will glue these to the plywood and screw them to it from the inside. I think breaking up the bottom into thirds will be stronger than halving it. These strong backs will project only a little way into the toolbox. These will only stick past the bearers on the ends by a 1/4" or so. I don't think it will be a problem with the contents. And the two pieces will allow the till to be set down on the workbench without rocking. This is the way I'm going to further support the bottom.


cleaning the long sides
I clamped this plywood between the dogs and clamped the opposite end with a couple of clamps. I lightly planed the long edge and spent more time flushing and cleaning the tails/pins.

too tight
I only made one planing run on the two long sides only. I did one more planing run taking light shavings and checked it again.

it fits
I was surprised to see that this fit the length. The left side (front to back) is a little too snug for me but the length dropped in squarely inbetween the bearers.

new piece of plywood
I took the minimal amount off I could. I flushed and cleaned the tails/pins and took just a few shavings between them. This already fits in the bearers so I didn't have to plane to fit it, just clean it up.


left side of the toolbox
This side is still snug and I don't want to plane anymore off of the till. I am going to do all the remaining fitting and planing on the toolbox until I get the fit I like. I started by planing this end on both sides.

used my grandson's #3
I was too lazy to stop and sharpen the iron in my #3 so I used Miles. He said it was ok as long as I sharpened it again.

labeled the bottom
I labeled this so as I planed the box I would be checking the fit with the same orientation of the till. I got a slip in and drop in fit that I was happy with. I turned the till 180 and the fit was snug again. So I will be able to drop the till into the box without checking to see if I'm putting it in the 'right' way, I kept on planing.

I planed both sides of the long sides of the toolbox
I just planed down to the level of the bearers. I went end to end but concentrated the bulk of the shavings on the left side ends.

got it fitted
I got a slip, drop in fit no matter which I put the till in. I switched it 180 the long way and I also tried with the bottom (which I marked) facing up. I'm done with the till and I'm happy with the fit. The plywood bottom isn't going to change the fit.

confirmed
I opened and closed the lid a whole bunch of times. Some fast and some slow, opening and closing it by holding the lid in different spots. The chain fell into the space and didn't interfere with the lid  closing not even once. I also dropped the lid and the chain still fell into the space. I didn't lose too much in the length doing this, maybe an inch all together.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
The size of an egg tells you the minimum required net weight per dozen eggs. It does not refer to the dimensions of an egg or how big it looks. How much does a dozen large eggs weigh?
answer - 24 ounces

Yet More of the Same only Different

The Furniture Record - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 10:23pm

I’ve recently come across some more furniture that is similar/the same as in some previous blogs. No one piece is worthy of its own blog but taken as a whole, it’ll do.

In April in There are No Rules, I wrote of this chair with this unique leg layout:

IMG_5447

Four legs, just not where you expected.

In the past two weeks, I have come across the following:

IMG_2424

Four legs just rotated 45°.

IMG_2422

In this configuration, the arms supports are carried by legs.

And in Georgia, I found:

IMG_2799

A totally different feel.

IMG_2800

This one is a bit rough, missing a few parts.

IMG_2801

Maybe not even an antique.

In the metal-for-wood category we have:

IMG_2461

Looks like wood, welds like metal.

Two more Wooton rotary desks:

IMG_9487

One in Chapel Hill,

IMG_9508

Looks nice from the client’s side as well.

Another in Monroe, Georgia:

IMG_2655

Looks like the one on Chapel Hill.

IMG_2662

Like this closed.

IMG_2661

Opens to this.

A Hitchcock chair:

IMG_2645

Well, not a real one.

A Hitchcock settee?

DSC_8958

Probably not.

And a gout rocker:

IMG_2452

And now, a word from our sponsor…

 


A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 2 – Planing and Shooting Platform for Japanese Planes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:56am

My friend and neighbor, Takuji Matsuda, enjoys the advantages of a western workbench. You read part one of my workshop tour here. But when it comes to planes, Takuji prefers traditional Japanese planes which are pulled towards the body, whereas the Western plane is pushed away from the user. To help Takuji plane surfaces and true up crosscut end grain while working on a simple table that is devoid of a vise, Mr. […]

The post A Visit to Takuji Matsuda’s Kiribako Shop: Part 2 – Planing and Shooting Platform for Japanese Planes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: Furniture Fundamentals

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:48am
Furniture Fundamentals

When I joined the woodworking team a few of years ago I found myself thumbing through a couple of books in the Furniture Fundamentals series. Exploring those two books,“Chairs & Benches” and “Tables,” – as well as a book that I edited as an addition to the series, “Casework” – made for a great jumping off point for my work with Popular Woodworking. The series offers a lot of great information on how to build some of […]

The post Book Giveaway: Furniture Fundamentals appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Man-Week at the Man Cave, er, Barn

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 7:45am

My recently scheduled barn workshop, “Make A Traditional Workbench,” was mercifully “cancelled” due to the fact that all four of the scheduled registrants notified me they were not coming.  No students, no workshop.  I say “mercifully” because it would have started the day after Barndaughter’s wedding weekend, and I was already worn to a nub.  Nevertheless, my friend John, who participated in the workshop last year and was scheduled to be my teaching assistant for the week, decided to join me anyway for a grand week of man-time in the man cave, a/k/a The Barn.

We had a delightful week of fellowship and working on projects; John concentrated on modifying and tuning up the Moxon-style ripple molding cutting machine while I emphasized bringing my FORP workbench from many years ago closer to completion.  In addition, John being a trained theologian and well-engaged citizen of The Republic, our conversations were vibrant and varied, and by the end of the week we were almost sentimental about our shared experiences.

The success of the week can be summarized in the observation that by Friday afternoon it looked like a tool-and-shavings bomb had been detonated there.  I’ll recount our adventures in greater detail in coming posts.  Stay tuned.

till glued up.....

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/15/2017 - 1:22am
Gluing up used to fill me with a lot of apprehension but now it is a lot easier. Most of the easier feeling comes from making better fitting joints. I know I am getting better there because I don't have use clamps to squeeze joints into submission anymore. It's a good feeling when a joints fit nicely and tonight's glue up gave me a warm and fuzzy again.

I am making one big till that won't slide even a frog hair. In that big till I am thinking of putting two sliding tills. These will both be about 1/3 the size of the big one. I will experiment with this build as it is virgin territory for me. I can't do anything wrong because it is for my grandson and it will be his first exposure to it.

my two dovetail saws
The Lie Nielsen is my go to dovetail saw that I use for 99.9% of the dovetails I do. The saw above it is one I had Matt Cianci change from a crosscut to a rip pattern. I think it ended up around 18 TPI. I use this for rip cuts and dovetails in stock below a 1/2" thick.

not a good choice
I used this on sawing the tails and that was ok. I really didn't feel it was better using this over the LN. I had a hard time sawing the pins with it and I only did one end before I finished the other 3 with the LN saw.  When push comes to shove, I didn't think the 3/8" thick till stock needed a different saw other than the LN.


Another point I point I thought about was the size of the plate. Most dovetail saws I see have much smaller plates. This was originally a crosscut tenon saw I got in my late 20's that sat around unloved. Turning it into a dovetail saw to use on small stock didn't up it getting more love. Maybe I'll try it to saw a tenon with it which I've not done yet.



I've read that the thinner the stock, one should use a smaller saw with finer teeth. What I found is that I can at least saw dovetails with stock down to 3/8" thick with the LN saw. These aren't the thinnest dovetails I've done neither. That honor goes to a 1/4" thick box that I sawed the dovetails with a Zona saw. Another point I learned is that dovetails are dovetails and the size of them doesn't matter. You still do them all the same way regardless of the size.

dry looks good
I don't have any 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom. I have some 1/4" underlayment plywood but that looks ugly. Not to mention that I don't think it would be as stiff or strong as 1/4" plywood.  Taking a look at the size of this I'm thinking of putting a center brace in it at the mid point on the long sides.

I got two choices on that. The first is to put it in the interior or apply it to the plywood bottom. If I put it on the bottom I'll have to put at least two so the till won't rock when it is taken out. If it is in the interior it will divide the big till in two. I'm not fond of either choice but I'm not liking the size of that bottom being unsupported further somehow.


two hairs too long
This was hard to decide on. Making it short and have a loose, sloppy fit or making it too long and plane it to fit. I went with too long and I'll plane it. I'll have to be careful because this stock is only 3/8" thick so I don't have a lot of meat to play with.

overshot this
I am not looking forward to planing this and I missed making this a wee bit closer fitting. I did it the same way I overshot the long sides.  It looks like I'll have to find a way to support these long sides so I can plane it.

glued up with hide glue
My dovetails came together good and I didn't need to clamp it.

this was a PITA
I squared it up and it would go out of square. I had to clamp the recalcitrant corner with a square to keep it moving. It will probably be saturday before I get the bottom on this. I don't like stopping at Lowes on the way home during the week. Especially so now that school is open and the buses are on the road again.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
In target archery, what is the bull's eye worth?
answer - 10 points

CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Seven — Programming a CNC for 3D Carving

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 11:47am

My last several posts have been about how the BARN workbench vise chops were designed. In this post, I’ll show you how the CNC was programmed for machining with CAM software. I use RhinoCAM software from MecSoft, but most CAM software programs that can handle basic 3D milling will have similar machining operations. This post is not a primary on CAM or a full explanation of all the settings that […]

The post CAD to CAM to CNC: Part Seven — Programming a CNC for 3D Carving appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Video: How to Choose a Push Stick – Table Saw Safety

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 7:54am

Push sticks? Yes, that is the topic of today’s blog, and it’s also the answer – Yes! Every woodworker has had a close call (or worse) or knows someone who has. Table saws are dangerous and even the experienced get hurt. But before this devolves into a diatribe about table saw injuries, let’s just agree that it’s better and safer to use push sticks when using a table saw. Two […]

The post Video: How to Choose a Push Stick – Table Saw Safety appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Woodworker Profile: Char Miller-King

Highland Woodworking - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 7:00am

As an Atlanta resident and associate at Highland Woodworking, I have the privilege of meeting a lot of woodworker-customer-friends, both hobbyist and professional alike, who are making wonderful things. I’m pleased to introduce you to some of our fellow enthusiasts through this semi-regular dispatch of who’s who in the Highland community. -AH

I met Char in the store when she was signing up for Sabiha Mujtaba’s Fundamentals of Woodworking class, a perennial favorite among woodworkers of all stripes. She told me about some of the projects she had finished for her family and fitting in her woodworking into an already full schedule. She invited me to check out her blog, the Wooden Maven, where I encountered not only an avid woodworker, but an inspiration.

How did you get into woodworking?
I began woodworking soon after undergrad when I moved into my first apartment. There was a platform bed I was interested in purchasing, at the time I could not afford it. I thought, perhaps I could build it. I didn’t have much direction to go on, YouTube was still in its developmental stage. After a few trips back to the furniture store to further inspect the bed, I drew my own plans, borrowed a drill, and purchased a ten dollar battery-powered screwdriver. It took me approximately three months to complete the bed… I believe that experience was the beginning of my love for building furniture. The gratification that came from producing something with my own hands was invigorating. That was back in 2003, since then I’ve been learning everything I can about my hobby-turned-passion.

What are you working on now?
I always like to keep a few projects going at once. Right now I am working on two identical beds. They are twin beds that extend to king size beds. In addition [they have] accessible storage and non-accessible storage underneath. I needed the beds to serve several purposes: a place for my children, room for guests, toy storage, and of course storage for toys that shouldn’t be brought out every day. This was the largest project I constructed from only plywood. I used three-quarter inch PureBond plywood and a Kreg circular saw jig for rip and cross cuts. To give the bed a modern look, I used beadboard wallpaper on the headboard and footboard. To keep the beds as low as possible, I opted for furniture movers strategically placed on the bottom for easy gliding.

Along with the beds, I am putting the finishing touches on a matching children’s fold down desk. I chose pine for this project since it is lighter in weight and an affordable option for a place that will see a lot of use. The tabletop of the desk is covered with a thin polyethylene sheet to make for easy clean-up of paint, markers, or pencil marks. Both projects are paint sprayed with semi-gloss paint and a coat of polyacrylic, a touch of blue paint is used to accent the desk and tie in the bedding colors.

Lastly, I am working on a display case, in which I am using all the skills I learned in Sabiha’s woodworking fundamentals class. The case includes dadoes and the use of an ogee bit. It is made from oak and instead of glass to enclose any special object, I am using plexiglass. It will sit nicely on a mantle for many years to come.

What are your favorite tools? (do you prefer hand tools over power tools, or Japanese saws vs. Western style saws, or an old drill that has been passed down, or a brad nailer that’s just super handy)

I know that I truly enjoy woodworking because I fall in love with almost every new tool I experience. The versatility of each of them and the possibilities are all endless. I recently took a hand plane class at Highland after purchasing my first block plane. I never knew that hand tools could be so involved, it was an eye-opening experience. Hand tools allow you to interact with the wood and have a closeness to it, that you don’t get with power tools. I have to say that hand planes are my favorite for now.

Recently, I started turning and for someone who wants a finished project quickly, turning pens [is] the perfect answer. I do enjoy working with lathes and hope to get more involved in the world of woodturning.

For sentiment’s sake, I still have the little Black+Decker screwdriver I built my very first project with, it no longer works. It is a small reminder from whence I came and a nod to staying humble in my craft.

Amy received her MFA in Creative Writing from San Francisco State University. She is the staff writer at Highland Woodworking. In 2015 she and her dad co-founded Coywolf Woodworks, their hobby shop in North Florida.

The post Woodworker Profile: Char Miller-King appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 4:42am
Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking woodworker, author and woodworking instructor, Dale Barnard, talks about his path to woodworking, his early education and the many ways he’s attempted to schedule classes for his woodworking school in southern Indiana.

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Glen talks with various guests about all things woodworking and some things that are slightly off topic.

Continue reading Dale Barnard Talks About Woodworking Classes – 360w360 E.249 at 360 WoodWorking.

started the till.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 09/14/2017 - 1:18am
My till is going to be a lift out one. It will be one large and it will have one or maybe two sliding tills in it. I'm not crazy about sliding tills back and forth to get access what is underneath them. I don't have a lot of experience with them in toolboxes but I do use them in drawers. I like putting stuff I use most of the time in the sliding till and stuff I seldom use in the bottom of the drawer. That seems to work for me and I'm going to try it on the toolbox.

the till stock
This has been stickered for a day and it is still straight. The far right one has a teeny bit of cup but it shouldn't interfere with the dovetailing to come.


Stanley 71 box done
I've already snapped the outside glamour shot. Tonight is the inside of the box glamour shot. I've picked the box up several different ways and there is definitely a weight tilt on the far side. When I picked it up I adjusted for the weight bias without any problems. The box having no handles and being too big to pick up with one hand helps too. This box has to be picked up with two hands.

it fits beneath the bearer for the till.
I'm rethinking stowing the 71 box in the toolbox. It's contents are protected and don't need to be further protected in the toolbox. It also eats up a lot of real estate which I hadn't thought of before making it. I want to get Miles a plow plane too and that will need a box. Another box will lead to a loss of more toolbox real estate. These might get stowed on top of the toolbox once it has it's full compliment of tools.

squared one end of the till pieces
Once I squared one end I set one long side and short in the box and knifed the length.

squared the other end
 I wish that I could do the width of multiple pieces the same as easily as I can to length. Practice, practice, practice, is the only thing that is going to do it for me there.


almost done
I got the tails done and I marked out the pins. I had expected to get this done tonight but there isn't any rush on it. Tomorrow I'll saw and chop the pins and maybe get it glued up.

And that is the way it was, Wednesday, September 13, 2017.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
45 rpm vinyl records when first made in 1949 and came in various colors. What did the color green mean?
answer - that it was a country record - Eddie Arnold had the first song on the first 45 made by RCA


Shooting Summer In The Foot

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:20pm
I'm going to spend the next few posts updating on cool thing that have been accomplished and do a little weather vane pointing into the future.

I have finally had time to sit down and reflect back on the past two plus months. They have been busy and productive and exhausting but they have not produced much I feel needs to take up space on this blog or in your reader feed. There has been sawdust, a lot of sawdust, but there has been no furniture nor techniques in the realm of "fine" woodworking,

It started early July with a project that was supposed to eat up maybe two weeks. We have a gazebo structure in our backyard and the previous owner build boardwalks between it and the back door, however the steps out of the back door were narrow, lacking a handrail, and it was torturous watching my Mother-in-Law step out and try and close the door behind herself. We decided building a small deck would be a safer platform for everybody and at the same time I'd complete the fencing around the yard which was 80% done. 

I interrupted my work to help my own parents expand their deck enclosure/dog run and to build a large chicken coop for my sisters new home. She was moving and needed a new place for the birds. The best part of these interruptions is that I got to spend some time working with my dad. 

Of course there are the standard interruptions and hitches that happen with any home improvement project. From removing substandard outdoor wiring to having to replace the entire boardwalk, to having to figure out how to run a 12' stretch of fence, with a gate, across a cement covered area. 

The projects are done now and I can start doing something in the shop again . . . but wait, the shop is trashed, absolutely trashed. When I'm working in my shop I am meticulous, I clean up and put things away in between stages and I keep myself well organized. Apparently that doesn't happen when I'm juggling my own outdoor project and dragging a truck full of tools off to build things elsewhere. Every workbench surface is covered with tools and toolboxes, empty Menards bags and scraps of pressure treated wood, boxes of decking screws and oh I can't go on. It's going to take me two solid days to get the shop workable again.










Along the way I have to find space to keep a few new friends. I purchased a cheap no-name chopsaw to help with all the deck cutting. I gave my old one away years ago and hadn't missed it until I dived unto the construction project world again. There's not a lot of call for it in my furniture work, the cheap ones aren't accurate enough, but I still have to find a place to store it. I've also added a Grizzly 22" scroll saw, to up my marquetry game, I found it for sale used for a very good price but I haven't had time to do more than clean it up and make sure it goes. Changing blades is a trick but with some practice I'll get the hang of it. Still I have to figure out a station or a way/place to store it. 

Still all good problems to have. 

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
Categories: General Woodworking

Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 10:23am

I made this adapter to hook up dust collection to the odd-size fitting (2″) on my oscillating sander. Start with a hardwood block that is (in my case) is 3″ x 4″ x 11⁄4” thick. I required a 2″ hole, so I used a 2″ hole saw to drill in the middle of the block. The next thing is to drill the holes for the split-block-clamping and block-attachment holes. I drilled […]

The post Tricks of the Trade: Dust Collection for Ports of All Sizes appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Saw Sharpening Demo at SAPFM-Blue Ridge

The Barn on White Run - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 7:39am

Recently I was a presenter at the SAPFM Blue Ridge Chapter on the topic of saw sharpening.  I would not call myself an accomplished saw sharpener mostly because my results are inconsistent, generally due to the lack of hours at the task.  But there are times when the result is excellent, for example my favorite old back saw that I last sharpened sometime in the 1980s and has cut hundreds of joints since, and remains sharp and the cuts crisp and clean.

Using some oversized props I reviewed the notions of tooth spacing and shape (rake, and fleam), and how these come into play for crosscutting and ripping at varying degrees of scale, precision and effectiveness.

I the moved through the nearly unlimited options for holding the saw during sharpening, and finally set up to actually doing some sharpening under less-than-ideal conditions of a large lumber warehouse with diffuse illumination.  I find that getting the lighting correct is perhaps the most important thing when sharpening a saw, and this setting wasn’t it.

My explanation of the process was certainly better than the actual sharpening during the demo, but I think the attendees got the idea.

As an aside, I was delighted I had my petite Roubo bench with me and realize that it has become a treasured part of my traveling side-show kit, as it fits neatly into the back of my S-10, is moved easily with a hand truck, and performs most excellently.

Ten Ways I am Doing Things Differently - Part 1

Tools For Working Wood - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 4:00am

I've been working with wood since I was a kid. I took my first woodworking class at the 92nd Street Y when I was 6 years old. I've been taking classes and building stuff for over 35 years. For the last 17 I have been working at Tools for Working Wood. In that time, new tools and new techniques have come on the market. By and large I have ignored them in my personal work. However, I haven't ignored everything, and my methods of work have in certain areas changed dramatically for the better. I'll break up my list of ten things into three posts so I don't drone on and on here.

Diamond Stones

I learned on Arkansas stones and I still use them for sharpening carving tools. I really love the feel of the stones. But during the 1990 - 2010 era, I mostly used water stones. Over the years I used many different brands, but nonetheless all water stones. I still use water stones in the kitchen for sharpening knives, but for woodworking tools and when I teach sharpening I use diamond stones do all the rough work. I use an 8000 grit finishing stone at the end because I don't think the 8000 grit diamond stones are nearly as fine, but diamonds do everything else. You can read about my experiments here.

Diamond paste works well but it's too messy for me, and I worry about getting it into my eye. I don't use lapping film, although it's great and popular. For the amount of sharpening I do, it's not practical: I would just blow through too much film. I think lapping film is best for low cost-of-entry on a professional system and for traveling. Some people love lapping film because it's largely maintenance free. It also works well for odd profiles, but it's not for me. The major problem I used to have with diamond stones is that they would wear out quickly and weren't flat. The DMT Dia-Sharp stones solve the latter problem, and by not using them to flatten water stones I solve the former problem. DMT makes lapping plates for flattening water stones, but currently I don't have one (I should but I don't).

The main reason for the switch to diamonds is that I am a lazy sod who is always in a rush. My water stones got out of flat. Water was sloshing everywhere - I didn't do the needed regular flattening and I didn't have a good place for a bucket of water stones. I love Arkansas stones a lot, but for regular chisels and plane blades, I find them slow. For carving tools, diamonds can replace a medium India stone, but diamonds, while cutting fast, leave scratches which would add in a step or two.

Hide Glue
I grew up on Titebond. Back in the 1980's we all felt so superior to those DIYers who still used - horrors! - Elmer's glue, while, we used real wood glue for gluing up our projects. And it was yellow too! What I hated then, and now, about Titebond is that if you ever got it on the wrong spot, you'd have the big hassle of cleaning the wood so that it could take finish. I still use Titebond for gluing Dominos and some other general tasks. But if there is any risk of surface contamination, I much prefer hide glue. Being mostly transparent to finishes = a massive time-saver for me. I don't use hot glue. I suppose I should, but I don't have a place to put the glue pot. I do most of my woodworking snatching odd moments and I just can't think ahead to soak glue pellets. (Why is it that every time I think of the word "pellets," I think of hamsters?) But Old Brown Glue is great stuff, is real hide glue, and put putting it out in the sun or on a radiator for a minute makes it perfect to use. So that's what I do.

Hand Sawing

When I first studied woodworking, it was generally accepted that sawing dovetails by hand was perfectly acceptable, but milling timber and cutting it by hand was a waste of time -- and really impossible to do well. However, in the early days of TFWW, I needed to build a couple of projects and for the first time I didn't have access to a table saw. At the same time, there was a major revival in backsaw manufacture, and a real re-evaluation of handsaws in general. On those early projects I ended up sawing lots and lots of maple by hand, and by the end of the project I was reasonably good at it. These days, I am much more likely to grab a handsaw than to wander back to see if the bandsaw is free. For plywood, I use a Festool plunge saw, but for everything else, I pretty much use our Hardware Store Saw. (I have wonderful Disston saws in my toolbox, but the display Hardware Store saw is physically closer and cuts faster). These days I expect myself to cut square by eye. Then normal procedure is to use a shooting board to complete the job (if real accuracy is needed).

I'll continue my list next time. What's on your list? I love traditional methods for doing stuff. I love history and the feeling that I am walking in the footsteps of those who went before us. On the other hand, I have limited time do build anything. and I value efficiency. I personally like developing hand skills rather than getting single purpose tools, and I am continually learning. So that's why I've change the way I work, and I will continue to change (I hope).

done tomorrow......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 09/13/2017 - 1:11am
I had a senior moment tonight that I corrected. Having that episode (again) gave me tonight's blog title. The 71 box will done tomorrow . Fini, complete, over, 100% done, nothing more to do, time to let the oohs and aahs commence. My final glamour shot tomorrow will be anticlimactic because I already posted one.

not the title senior moment
I almost made another set of these for nothing. After I took some medicine that corrected my anal ocular inversion, I saw that I could just turn it.  The one I have in my hand is the original way I was putting them in. Turning them gives me a much wider bearing surface for the till bottom to seat on.

it's a snug fit side to side
top of the scrap is the bottom of the bearer
I set the bearer on top of this and screwed them into the sides. This ensures both bearers are at the same height.

getting the length of till
I made the mark across both sticks at the front and I'm checking it at the back to see if it there is any difference. The mark lined up exactly which means my toolbox sides are the same length.

sawing the till parts to rough length
long side is about 3/16 too long
the same with the ends
I had bought 6 boards and I picked the 3 straightest ones I for this till. I am going to sticker these until tomorrow and I'll start the dovetailing it then.

choices for the bottom
I can use 1/4" birch or 1/8" plywood. My preference is to use 1/8" over the 1/4". But the 1/8" will be the wanna be and 1/4" will be used. I don't think the 1/8" would be strong enough. It's too big of a bottom span for it.

first handle idea
As I was looking at this pic I thought of something else. I made the space for the chain to fall in but maybe I can put this on the other side and thread a rope handle through it?

the blog title senior moment
I was fixated on getting my hardware for this and spaced out that I have 80 or more of these. I could have been done with this yesterday.

almost bottomed out
I drilled a hole and threaded it with my homemade tap. With the fence, washer, and the holder thickness, the screw won't bottom out.

cutting it down
I don't need to spend ten minutes screwing this all the way in or out.  I cut it to a 1/2" long under the head.
enough room to screw this in/out with my ham hock fingers
I would need a stubby
If I had used one of the screws coming from McMaster-Carr I would have had to use a screwdriver. I don't have the strength in my fingers to grasp the head of the screw and take it out or in. Not to mention that I would have to search for a stubby screwdriver that I know I don't have.

glued with hide glue - this will be done tomorrow
the man in brown came
As I was writing this blog he came and dropped off my goodies from McMaster. Two 10-24 screws from Lowes, with tax are over $2. For $5 and change I got a hundred and I probably have a lifetime supply of them. Miles too most likely.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the birthday flower for November?
answer - chrysanthemum

How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 11:51am

Construction pine, the stuff you get at the big box stores, has a bad rap with woodworkers. It’s poorly dried, hard to work and moves way too much. It grows too fast so the grain is too wide and varied. It’s for carpentry projects… I also know this. It’s cheap, requires good tool techniques, needs proper design consideration and demands sharp edges. Which makes it perfect for new woodworkers, experiments […]

The post How to Prepare Construction Lumber for Furniture appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder

Highland Woodworking - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 8:03am

 

Finally, an exceptional grinder at a reasonable price!

Take a look at the Rikon 8 Inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder in this short video tour with Justin Moon. Justin shows how the Rikon grinder runs quietly and smoothly and details how it could be the perfect sharpening addition for your shop.

The post Product Video: Rikon 8 inch Professional Low Speed Bench Grinder appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

it's a type 10 to 11......

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 09/12/2017 - 1:14am
Thanx to Bob D I was able to type my 71. And just like trying to type a bench plane, there is a bit slop with typing the 71.  It could be the type where a certain feature first showed up but it also has some of the later ones. I've found that the best I can do is to narrow it down to two or maybe three types. The 71 is that way. It has one feature that first appeared with the type 10 and it matches up too with the type 11.

I like typing a Stanley tool. It's cool to see how it progressed from initial production to what you are holding in your hands now. The progression of the 71 was interesting. The special attachment didn't show up for over 10 years.

been a day it should have set up
won't fit where I want it
This is one downside to making a small tight box. I could notch out for the thumb screw but I don't want to do that. That would make it even tighter getting the 71 out and putting it back.  Another option would be to the iron in the bullnose position. That would reverse the collar and thumbscrew 180°. That would also make it a PITA to use when I have to switch it before I can make shavings.


it barely fits here
The open throat front edge is separated from the holder by two atoms. It's a tight fit. I can take the router out but it's a bit dicey getting it back in. It is easier to slightly tilt it to drop it in but with the holders there, I can't do that. I have put up against the holder and drop it straight down. Not that convenient and awkward.

Another problem is the weight is now all concentrated on this side of the box. Not a deal killer but there isn't much I can do about it.

the lid clears the irons
still no screws for the fence
I could put the fence storage on the other side but I don't think it will do much to counter balance the other side. Since I don't have the screws this isn't set in concrete yet.

got a 16th now
I planed a little off of each side of the holder. There is enough room to put the router back in by tilting it.

the till
The #6 is the tallest tool I can think of that will be in the bottom of the toolbox. This one big till will get two more sliding tills that will fit inside of it. That will all come later.


bearer on the chain side
I saw a toolbox build that dealt with this chain in what I thought was a clever way. I don't like having the chain fall into the till and his solution fixes that. I don't remember who did this but if I do I'll give him credit and post the link.

the till side
If the till side has a space between it and the chain, the chain will naturally fall into it and not the till.

this looks to be enough room
The chain fell straight down into the space. Now I just have to figure out how to make the space.

grecian ovolo on the bottom, the top one I don't the name of it
I think using these on the interior would be lost not to mention not being readily visible.

better choice for the bearer
As of now I'm thinking of only putting bearers on the two short sides to hold the till.  I want to avoid having them as a catch point on the long sides. If I see the till sagging I can revisit this and put a short bearer in the middle on both long sides.

side bearers
The one with the rabbet will go against the side with the chain and give me the space for it.


this should work
The size of the rabbet seems adequate - it's 3/8" square with a 3/8" space on the top.


change one
Decided to use a rabbeted bearer on both sides. There isn't enough space to get my fingers between the till ends and the sides but it'll help some if I put handles on the inside of the till.  The what and how of the handles will take some time to generate a few ideas on. I am going to do change two on the bearers also.  I will make the rabbet bottom 3/4" inch with a 3/8" space for the chain. I don't like the look of the 3/8" square rabbet as it looks to be too small for the till to rest on. I'll make the new bearers tomorrow and start on the till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
On the Universal Product Code (bar code), what is signified by the digits 2 to 6?
answer -  the Product's manufacturer as assigned by the Uniform Code Council

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