Hand Tools

pic frame day 2........

Accidental Woodworker -

 The temps have warmed up a bit lately. It snowed lightly over night and the rest of the day was dreary and gray. On the bright side the temps have been above freezing for the first time in over a week. It is supposed to be in the low 50'sF (11C) tomorrow which ain't too bad for January.

 2nd cat food box

Tried something new for me with this box. After I had glued the pins/tails, checked it for square, I then glued on the bottom plywood. Made sense to me to do the both of them now rather than one after the other. I had a snug fit with the pins and tails.

 faux finish time

Oil based gloss enamel and feathers. I am using the feathers to give me a random, streaking effect with the paint.

 practice first

I'm glad I decided to get a feel for the feather painting on a piece of scrap first. My first two attempts laid down way too much paint. Test run #6 was the look I was after. 

 needs only one?

This isn't exactly what I wanted but it will do. I wanted the white to be straight/linear and run in thinner streaks. I will seal this with shellac tomorrow after the white has dried.

 for sale

Two chargers, one impact driver, one 1/4 hex drive drill, and one 3/8" chuck drill. The impact driver was used once or twice and then nothing. It comes with the 3 original batteries (still good but low AH rating), two 3.0AH batteries I bought last year, and one 4AH battery. They are all 12v tools but I have never had any quibbles or hiccups using any of them in any shop project. $50 plus shipping which should be around $15-$20 depending upon the zip code.

 3.0 AH

The 3.0 batteries were a huge improvement over the batteries that came with the drills. Almost 3 times the run the OEM batteries.

 still good

These work and they will drive 6" 1/4" lags but only about 20-30 before you have to recharge them. All of the batteries are Lithium ones too.

 why I'm selling them

I had bought a Bosch cordless sander that I loved when it worked. It died and I bought a Dewalt cordless sander that I love more then the Bosch one. I didn't want to have two different battery/charger systems to deal with. I want one charger and one battery type for all the cordless tools. I have a 1/4" hex driver drill, a 1/2" chuck drill, and a cordless sander all taking 20v Dewalt batteries. (I bought two 3.0AH replacement batteries today - the OEM ones are 1.5AH). I will need to replace the Bosch drill holder with a Dewalt one.

the shellac was labeled lemon

I want to use the shellac I mixed before it goes bad. I got two coats on this today and tomorrow I'll put on two more and call these done.

 oil based black enamel

I'll feather on some random black streaks here and there. I don't want the black to dominate or equal the white paint. That is subject to change when I put it on tomorrow.

might be keeping this

This won't fit in my wife's SUV for the trip down to High Point. I am growing rather fond it and it won't break my heart to keep it. 15 drawers is kind like me having 15 boxes to fill up with all kinds of crappola.

I found a new crime drama to watch. It is called 'The Paris Murders' and it in french with english subtitles. I hit the mother lode with it too because there are 9 seasons to binge watch. If each season (1&2 have 12 episodes) I will have 108 to watch.

accidental woodworker

AI - Artificial Intelligence and Woodworking

Tools For Working Wood -

AI - Artificial Intelligence and Woodworking 1

As I sit at my desk under the watchful eye of my Dalek overlord, I am pondering the impact AI will have on woodworking.

First of all, for anyone who works with their hands, being replaced by machine is nothing new. Whether you are a skilled hand weaver or a master at the forge, the mass market replaced you long ago with power looms and drop forges. The machines produced simpler work at great savings and thereby turned most manufacturing from something skilled to something that mostly requires a lot of capital to set up. The chasm between master and maker grew wider.

Machines got rid of a lot of very repetitive work that needed a skilled person to do uninteresting work, but at the same time removed the custom work that made the job interesting.

AI just means that the same thing will happen to desk jobs. Pretty soon lots and lots of perfectly nice, competent people will lose their jobs - both the boring bits and the interesting bits.

But how will this affect woodworkers? The first and most obvious effect is that architectural woodworking, which is the backbone of modern custom work, will have fewer offices to build and the offices will be simpler.

Various computer aids already enable a cabinetmaker to speed up and produce drawings quickly for an ever larger range of products and situations. You might even see a new breed of "cabinetmaker" use a computer to design everything, and outsource the actual manufacture. Oh, that's happening already. My bad.

But one thing that's happening that is good is that small shops are now using computers, outsourcing and other methods and now have access to some of the efficient processes that previously were only available to giant companies. Computers in general, and modern software including AI , certainly make it much easier to be an efficient tiny company - and that's good.

It also wouldn't shock me to see more people enter the various trades at all levels of skill, simply because office jobs might disappear at the same time the need for people who make, fix, and put things together, continues.

But the basic goal of automation has always been the simplify and homogenize designs. So the imaginative person, who can come up with a new approach to design and make something interesting, still has a window, maybe even a larger window, for opportunity. The reason for this is no matter how clever we make our machines, we have literally no idea where the next great new idea is coming from. Giant companies that supposedly know what they're doing, have no idea either. Google spends billions on development, and the way they avoid getting caught short is by spending money on all sorts of projects and then killing the projects that don't seem to pan out. For all the great smart people at these companies, they still have not figured out a method for creation of new ideas that works. The movie industry since its beginning has desperately tried to figure out how to make sure when they make a movie it's going to be a hit. To this day they haven't figured it out (yes, I'm thinking of you "Heaven's Gate" or any number of failed sequels).

I'm pretty sure AI will enable woodworkers to design things faster. It'll also help somebody who wants to (for example) build a bookcase, have a machine crank out measured drawings for that bookcase. And maybe even find the best place to buy the materials and all those things. That's good, as all these bits of automation help the small company compete with a big company. It also means that your designs can be more ambitious. If AI can help me design the mundane bits of a project better and save me time, I can do more complicated projects successfully.

On the downside, I see institutional structures, both in the government and private sector, totally not getting ready for what is probably a cataclysmic wave of change. The government's are very happy to give tax breaks and handouts to people who invest in technology. In New York the governor has proposed a nearly $400 million fund to encourage AI R&D, partnering with various universities around the state. But this isn't actually what everybody needs. What we should be doing as a government and as a society is creating an infrastructure of a safety net so anyone can take risk to pursue a new job or new idea - in AI or any other realm.

There are hundreds of thousands of extremely talented crafts people in this country, most of whom would like nothing more than to make their product and do it the best way they know how. They have ideas on new ways of making things, new ways of applying technology, and new ways of doing things. But they are trapped in their current situations because of things like high costs of health insurance, educational debt, and an uncertain future. If as a society we could mitigate or remove the risk, we would be creating millions of new interesting jobs, and yes - fund AI innovation too. Some European countries do this already and sometimes it has resulted in new technology, but more often it has resulted in more small, happier businesses.

From a business standpoint, encouraging small businesses, the hotbed of most job creation, and helping them grow because you've mitigated their risk is a much better use of funds than giving handouts and tax breaks to big companies who frankly have the money to take the risk on their own and do it all the time.

N.B. ChatGPT is amazing, but it doesn't really think. It just evaluates existing data and formulas a credible response to your question. So as great as it may be in writing a sonnet in the style of Metallica or an outraged letter to customer service, in my view this new technology is as far from being able to come up with a new idea as it always has been. It just seems smarter. I had a boss like this once. He name wasnt AI but you could ask him any question and he would take whatever was the popular answer and regurgitate it back to you in a somewhat repacked form as if it was his own idea. His management thought he was brilliant and insightful. But as for actual innovation, he never had an original idea in his head his entire life.

PS. Just after this blog was written, the head of the International Monetary Fund, Kristalina Georgieva, released a blog post in which she declared that AI will affect almost 40 percent of jobs around the world, replacing some and complementing others. We need a careful balance of policies to tap its potential. This isn't the same approach as I am suggesting; I think small businesses are the wave of the future, but she isn't wrong.

picture frame.......

Accidental Woodworker -

This is the biggest picture frame I've made to date. I wasn't sure about it being stiff and strong enough but those fears have been laid to rest. The woodworking portion of it is done and the finishing of it is in the batters box. I'm going to try a faux finish trick with it. That will be the first time I tried that too. Depending upon how it goes I think it will take about a week to knock it out. If I don't like the final result or a partial one, I will paint it and cover it up.

 out of the clamps

The first thing I did after the clamps came off was to shake this like I had bee hive shoved down my shorts. It held and the frame is stiff and solid feeling. I think it is flat but it is hard to determine that because I don't have flat surface larger than the frame to check it on.

cat food box

I am gluing a 1/4" piece of plywood to the bottom of both of the boxes.

 flushing the corners

I had hoped that the biscuits would have done a better job of flushing the top corners. 

 worse corner

This is a strong 32nd and of course the grain was against me. I wanted to plane from the left going to right. I got it done and I had to be careful at the end of the stroke so I didn't tear out the corner.

 splines

The miters are reinforced with #20 biscuits but I also put in splines. This is a large frame - the OD is 30x22. The splines are giving me a toasty, warm, and fuzzy feeling.

 insurance

I got a snug fit on the splines but I used clamps too. 

 step one

I applied one coat of a gray stain and wiped it off after a couple of minutes. I waited 90 minutes and applied two coats of shellac to seal it.

 two on the back

The back of the frame is only getting two coats. The front will get 3. Tomorrow I'll start the next phase of my faux finish. I'm shooting for a weathered, white streaked snot beat of it look.

bare bones tool

The 2nd drill came today and I didn't realize that I have bought a 1/2" chuck. I was surprised by how small and compact it is despite the chuck size. 

 LED light

The light is on the base and it shines upward at the chuck.

1/4" hex drive drill (left one)

This is where I was expecting the light to be on both the drills. The weight, and feel of both of these drills is about the same. I couldn't feel a noticeable difference in the heft, grip, on balance on either.

cat food box #2

Been sawing the half pins a new way for a couple of months now. No knife wall, I just saw on the knife line. And I do the both of them at the same time.

Paul Sellers mortise guide

Hi Jason here is my take on these two. As far as I know Paul Sellers doesn't have a bridle joint guide. You could use these for that purpose and I'm sure it would work. My mortise guide set here goes from 1/4" up to 1/2" by 16ths.

 Richard Maguire guide

These are almost identical to the Paul Sellers mortise guides with the exception of the magnets. They are the trick that holds the saw vertical and tight to the guide as you saw down. I made these two first, one for 1/2" thick stock (left one) and one for 3/4" thick stock.

 my improvement

I made my sawing guide adjustable. I added more magnets (5) to provide more grab to hold the saw vertical with more force. There are two wooden shims and plastic ones in the guide. I cut up a plastic milk carton for fine adjustment. The milk carton shims are good for allowing for the saw kerf. I used a bolt and a wing nut that allows the front face to be removed and shims added/subtracted as needed. Hope this helps with this Jason.

accidental woodworker

The Laborious Art of Hand Tool Woodworking and Its Impact on the Spine

Journeyman's Journal -

Introduction

Hand tool woodworking is commonly perceived as strenuous and challenging. Indeed, it’s all that and even more. To gloss over it would be a kindness to those teaching the craft, and to some extent, it’s worth it. However, when it comes to your health, it’s definitely not worth compromising.

The Laborious Nature of Hand Tool Woodworking

Since my first introduction to woodworking back in 1977, I’ve always had a fascination with the craft and dabbled in it. It wasn’t until 1998 that I took it seriously and started a woodworking business that was modelled around handwork through the use of traditional woodworking hand tools. The early years were filled with learning experiences and challenges, but the passion for woodworking kept me going. As I honed my skills and craftsmanship, I found joy in creating unique pieces that showcased the beauty of natural wood. Each project became a labour of love, blending traditional techniques with modern design sensibilities.

Over time, the woodworking business evolved, and I had the opportunity to collaborate with other artisans and woodworkers, exchanging ideas and techniques that enriched my own practice. Embracing the time-honoured methods of woodworking brought a sense of fulfilment and connection to the heritage of the craft, instilling a deep appreciation for the artistry and meticulous attention to detail required.

The journey from a personal fascination with woodworking to building a thriving business centred on traditional hand tools has been incredibly rewarding. It’s a testament to the enduring appeal of craftsmanship and the timeless beauty of handmade wooden creations. Looking ahead, I am eager to continue exploring the boundless possibilities of woodworking, preserving its legacy while infusing it with innovation and creativity.

Somewhere down the line, my back took a turn for the worse. It started gradually in my younger years, and the fix was simple. Nothing short of a back massage will fix it. They say you must exercise your muscles, and what better exercise than physically planing and sawing all day long for six days a week?

The reality was that I was wearing it out quicker than it would have naturally

Hand tool woodworking requires a great deal of physical effort. The use of hand tools such as saws, chisels, and planes involves repetitive motions that can be physically demanding.This laborious nature of hand tool woodworking can be attributed to the manual effort required to shape and manipulate wood without the aid of power tools.

The process of hand tool woodworking involves a variety of tasks, each with its own set of challenges.For instance, planing a piece of wood to a desired thickness or ripping a board to width requires not only skill but also physical strength and endurance.

Impact on the Spine

The physical demands of hand tool woodworking can have implications for the spine. Prolonged periods of standing, bending, lifting, and twisting can lead to various spinal disorders. These may include back pain, sciatica, and other conditions that cause discomfort in the neck, arms, and legs.

Over the years, my commitment to the craft and my promise of “handmade” have taken a toll on my back as I strained over the workbench. My decision not to incorporate any machinery for the laborious task of breaking down the stock has resulted in significant discomfort. The pain was so severe that I was incapacitated for two weeks, unable to walk or even perform simple tasks like dressing myself. My insistence on purity was, in retrospect, a mistake. Machinery wasn’t created solely for profit, although it undoubtedly plays a significant role. Its primary purpose was to alleviate laborious tasks, minimise physical strain that could lead to injuries, and expedite the work process. While I enjoy the process of building a project entirely by hand, it just isn’t worth the risk if you have underlying health issues.

Conclusion

While hand tool woodworking can be a laborious task, it is also a rewarding craft that many find fulfilling. However, it’s important for woodworkers to be mindful of the potential impact on their spine and take preventative measures. This could include regular breaks, using ergonomic tools, and incorporating exercises that strengthen the back muscles.

Remember, sharp tools make all the difference, and so does a healthy spine.

Happy woodworking!

Disclaimer: This blog post is intended for informational purposes only. If you’re experiencing back pain or other health issues, please seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Good start to the year’s work.

A Luthiers Blog -

With most of the construction on the e-mando now complete, it’s time to concentrate on the tailpiece and bridge and getting the mandolin set-up. And that’s exactly what I look at in this video!

And just in case you’ve been wondering……..here’s the latest Standard. It’s rosewood body has been fully bound in cocobolo and the next step is fit the neck.



small table done......

Accidental Woodworker -

 Got a mini rant within me that has to come out. My local newspaper, The Providence Journal, changed its amusement pages. I'm speaking of the comics, crossword, and other puzzles pages. It has seen fit to remove 4 of the 5 comics I read every day like if I didn't I would have a heart attack. It no longer has the sudoku and crossword puzzles I did everyday. They continued this madness on sunday by shrinking the number of comic panels and no longer putting out Shylock Fox and can you spot the 6 differences brain teasers? I am going to cancel my subscription to it because I don't like the crossword puzzle and sudoku (the same as the USA newspaper) that they do have on the amusement page now. If I remember it I'll do a search of the www to see if there is a one spot for all comics to read.

 annoying )(&^(%)(@_4r0-98

Having a loose handle on a plane will send me into a tizzy in a heartbeat. I find it incredibly annoying to have the handle move fwd/aft or R/L as I'm pushing it. It is distracting and upsets my concentration. This MF No. 9 is my daily user for now and it was time to eliminate this hiccup.

 washer

There are a couple of ways to fix this. One would be to shorten the threaded rod. This is something I do only as a last resort. Secondly you can put shelf liner under the base of the handle. I don't like this (even though it works well) because I can see a gap between the bottom of the handle and the plane. Third way is to add something under the head of the threaded rod. That is what I chose to do. However, the washer's OD was a few frog hairs wider than the countersink for the threaded rod. A few minutes with a file and all was well in Disneyland again.

 last coat

I got two coats of shellac on the top and shelf yesterday. One more coat and I'm calling it down.

ain't working

The plan for gluing up the frame with these 45 blocks ain't happening. I tried my best to clamp these first two and then align the other two corners and got nowhere. As soon as the blocks and clamp were off the bench the frame folded like a house of cards.

 didn't swear once

I was expecting this to be raised to the nth degree in frustration but it wasn't. I used blue tape to hold the corners together and that helped a lot. I slowly tightened the clamps two at time and hopping back and forth between the two until the frame's 45 closed up tight. The diagonals were dead on - almost ready for glue. I wanted to unwind a bit because I kind of worked myself up into frenzy while doing the dry fit.

my first choice

This frame was too large for these. I had a warm and fuzzy with using them to clamp the corners at 90. I'm sure that I'll have plenty of frames in the future to try these with.

 yikes

There isn't a lot of real estate for my ham fisted hands to get underneath and attach the table clips. I tried and I succeeded in getting one at the left front corner screwed down in 15 minutes (I had 9 more to do). It was hard to mark for the screws and murderous to see it to screw it down.

 better idea

Drilled a 5/8 hole above the positions of the table clips so I could use a long bladed screwdriver.

 it worked

Had some difficulties starting the screws but once I got that driving it home went off well. 

 knew this

I used clamps to hold the shelf and top in place while I tired to mark for the screws in the table clips. The dull spots are where the clamp head was. I touched up all these spots after the shelf and table were secured.

 survived the glue up

The glue up went without any swearing, cussing, having to say oops, and on the first attempt. I had used #20 biscuits to help with the alignment. I still plan on putting a spline in the corners after the frame has cooked and set up.

cat food box

I've been meaning to make one of these for a very long time. Finally got it done today. I had measured the cans and allowed for 3 on the short leg and I just had enough room. I made it an 1/8" longer than needed and it turned out to be spot on.

 same this way

I thought I had allowed extra but it was dead on for 4 cans. The box is designed to hold 24 cans of cat food. These will replace the cardboard boxes that I had been using.

 plywood bottom

This will be glued on the bottom of the box tomorrow. Or maybe after dinner. 

 need one more

The cans for this box are smaller than the ones above. Decided to make both boxes the same size because I use more of the larger cans than I do the smaller ones. I was going to start this today but my back was acting up. Bending over the bench to do this box didn't feel so good.

 calling it done

I brought this upstairs to let it hang out in the living room for a week. I want the shellac to set up and harden some before I put the Keurig coffee maker on it.

 frame

The shop temp was 56F (13C) when I got down to it this AM. By the time I glued it up the temp had zoomed up 57F which I deemed a wee bit too chilly for glue to cook. I brought it up to the living room to set up and keep the small table company until tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

computer woes.......

Accidental Woodworker -

 I used to configure and repair computers for a living at one time. The shop computer decided to throw a hissy fit today when I tried to boot it. It defaulted at some weird spot in the boot sequence that I wasn't familiar with. I couldn't find anything online to help either. So after pissing away the better part of 3 hours I said No Mas, No Mas.

I can't believe how much I depend upon and use this computer. I have a win OS laptop I can use but I really missed that big screen today. Not sure which road to travel with this now. A lot of the computer repair shops in my local area folded during the pandemic and they probably weren't Linux savvy either. Amazon has all in one computers furbished for $250 to $300 which isn't that bad of a price. I don't want a tower system, the all in one takes up less space. I have lots of time to figure it out and it will be a bit inconvenient.

 yesterday

This is the mitered bridle joint I did yesterday. The tenon is too thin for the mortise but I think I figured how to do it the right way.

test joint #2

I thought I had this figured out in the brain bucket but when I started to saw it out I lost everything momentarily. The left one (mortise) will have the two outside cheeks sawn at a 45. The right one (tenon) will have its outside cheeks sawn off at a 45 leaving a tenon at 45.

 acceptable

I did it right in spite of drawing a blank on it. The 45's line up good without a gap.

 ugly looking

This needs a lot of help. I'm much better at sawing but still need a lot more practice. I sawed the mortise with the sawing guide and the tenon one freehand. I left way too much of the line. I initially tried to clean it up with a chisel and a tenon float before finally switching to a router. I decided to leave the mitered bridle joint for later and I will do a new frame with just miters.

 wee bit chilly

The mercury was hovering around 10F (-12C) this AM when I got up. Supposedly the real cold weather hasn't gotten to my part of the universe yet. It was miserable doing my grocery shopping at 0700.

 new frame

Miters rough sawn and shot dead on the shooting board.

 what a PITA

I tried to dry clamp the frame on my set up table but it was too small. This kind of worked but the 3/8" plywood is bowed so getting the corners aligned, flat, and tightened was frustrating. The important part is the miters are all dead nuts 45, the frame is square and all the corners are tight and gap free. Not sure at this point how or when I will glue this frame together.

 pic fits

There is about 1 7/8" for the matting between the pic and the frame.

 $30

I ordered this yesterday and it came today. I'll need it for the frame.

 rabbeting bit

I had one of these but I couldn't find the bearings for it at first. I finally found them and the cap screw broke off at the head. Tossed that and ordered this one. I wonder if they knew I am a box freak? It even has plastic sleeves for both of them.

 better

I have tried numerous times in the past to use these miter clamps with zero joy. That was all due to my miters being garbage. I think the best way to glue up this frame is to do two corners first. After they have set up, do the remaining two.

Time to go piss into the wind and try and fix the shop computer again.

accidental woodworker

Driving through redwoods?

Working By Hand -

Who ever thought that putting holes through super large trees so that cars could drive through was a good idea? A number of big trees in California had tunnels dug through them in the late 1800s and early 1900s. One of the most famous was cut in 1881 through Yosemite’s famous Wawona Tree. It was cut as a tourist attraction, and was the second standing sequoia to be tunnelled – the first, a dead tree, still stands in the Tuolumne Grove in Yosemite). The Wawona Tree stood for 88 summers before falling during the winter of 1968-69 (it was 2,100 years old).

There are currently three different tree drive-through : the Shrine Tree (4,500 years/hollowed by fire), a coast redwood, the Chandelier Tree (2,400 years old/opening cut late 1930s), and the Klamath Tree (785 years old/opening cut 1976).

Cutting holes through such majestic trees really seems like a very odd thing to do.

Tools for the Making

Journeyman's Journal -

The author makes tools for several reasons-to recapture the quality of days gone by, to meet the demands of special applications, and to improve on the designs available from mass producers. The objects shown on the facing page recapture the combined elegance of function and appearance that every first-rate cabinetmaker once expected from his tools.

I am probably the only active woodworker with both a Norris and Primus smoothing plane gathering dust on a shelf. The reason for this curious circumstance is that I have built replacements that come much closer to my personal vision of what a plane should be. l make guitars, working almost entirely with hand tools: a comprehensive collection of planes, saws, chisels, scraper blades and miscellany accumulated over 30 years. The scale of my instrument building does not call for heavy power tools, with their concentration-shattering din. Making musical instruments is essentially a quiet activity, a calming ambience in which I draw great physical and metaphysical pleasure from planing, sawing, scraping and otherwise working wood by hand. My idea of a good tool is a solid, well-made object that does the job it was designed to do. It should be comfortable to use and, I hope, look attractive. Finding hand tools that fit these particulars is not as easy as it once was. Power tools have pushed out many hand tools, and manufacturers have dropped others because turnover is too small by today’s high-volume standards. Lightweight plastics are fast replacing wooden handles (to the detriment of a handsaw’s balance), and high labour costs in industrialised countries will increasingly shift manufacture to low-wage countries, where price will be more important than quality.

The whole ethos of merchandising has changed since the days when tools of durable excellence streamed from the factories of Victorian Britain. Tool manufacturers then shared the universal assumption that having a good product was the high road to competitive success. Skilled journeymen, the “marketplace” back then, demanded fine quality; lesser tools made for dilettantes were whimsically described as “Gent’s” tools.
Today, competitive pressures focus on that end of the market where the preemptive word is not so much “good,” but “right” the right tool, the right price, and the right merchandising. The appeal is aimed at the great mass of basically unskilled buyers who are building shelves in their garages. The choice of colour for a plastic handle (involving market research and colour consultants) is counted a weightier matter than the alloy in the blade. For these and other reasons, I came to understand that if I wanted my dream plane, I would have to make it myself. I wanted tools that would not only function better than those on the market, but look beautiful too. Using planes as much as I do, I soon realised their shortcomings.

The Norris smoothing plane, a famous example from the golden age of British tool manufacture, has deficiencies that make it less than wonderful today. The front grip is a brief stub of wood offering a restricted hand-hold, and the closed handle is designed for the three-finger grip favoured by British woodworkers but alien to me. The screw adjusted cap is inefficient-a half-turn too little can affect the plane’s functioning. The cutting edge is concealed from view and can easily strike the bottom of the fixed screw cap or the top of the mouth, and the mouth is not adjustable. The things I really like about the Norris are its heft, coffin-sided shape, thick blade and the configuration of the wooden frog. My own design for a metal bench smoother was based on these Norris features.

The wood-bodied Primus plane is a well-made German tool with a cumbersome adjusting mechanism. Removing the blade for sharpening is an above average bother, and replacing it involves complete repositioning of the blade using two knobs. I find the Primus’ horn-style tote unsatisfying in terms of comfort and control. As a plus, the mouth opening can be changed by simple adjustment of a wooden insert. I wanted my plane to have an adjustable throat, depth-adjustment without slack, lever-action blade cap for fast blade removal, and a lateral adjustment by means of a concealed device that could not be knocked askew. I made many sketches, and tried different styles of tote and handle before constructing the metal bench smoother shown on the facing page. The patterns for the brass lever cap and malleable iron body casting were made of wood, with the bent sides made of maple veneer laminated over a curved form. Both of these, plus the pattern for the sliding toe piece, were sand castings. The regulating mechanism parts and cap lever were built of boxwood, and cast by a lost-wax foundry using inexpensive silicone moulds. Steel regulator shafts and knurled brass knobs were turned by a machine shop. Precise hand-fitting of all the regulator parts eliminated slack motion. Wooden parts are Brazilian rosewood, the handle being a three-piece lamination. The blade is a 2-in. chrome vanadium replacement blade, 1/8 in. thick (available from Woodcraft or Garrett Wade).

For the wood-bodied plane, I used a laminate construction to avoid the difficult job of mortising the throat out of a solid block. Quartersawn teak was chosen for its dimensional stability, and the sole was lined with stainless steel. The metal lining is epoxied to the sole and secured with a “key” mortised into the front and back end of the body. These keys are hard-soldered to the sole plate. Loosening the screw in back of the tote permits movement of an insert in the sole to open or close the mouth. This plane is a joy, comfortable to work with for long periods, and has the balance and heft that make it a good all -around plane. It holds a 1/3/4,-in. chrome vanadium blade, 1/8 in. thick.

My total cost for four planes (jack and jointer in process) will average out to about $65 per plane . Not cheap, as planes go, but certainly a worthwhile investment to me. So far, I’ve built 22 tools-planes, try squares, mortising gauges, bevels, and spoke shaves.

Good commercial chisels are not in short supply, so my chisel making has been confined to special-purpose kinds. I particularly like the exceptional comfort of a chisel-handle shape based on the handle of an engraver’s burin used in conjunction with a square instead of round ferrule. A square ferrule automatically orients the hand in its proper working mode. I plan about 10 more tools, including block plane, instrument-maker’s vise, level, hand router, and hand drill of improved design. The time is not far off when China, India and other developing countries will be shipping basic hand tools of very acceptable quality to world markets. It is interesting to speculate that domestic producers may then abandon the homeowner market and choose to focus on tools for the skilled woodworker. We might see a bench plane that is not a Ford, but a Mercedes. In the
meantime, I’ve found that it’s entirely possible to make your own tools using the best materials available, and without the cost constraints manufacturers have to live with. Not the least benefit
of surrounding yourself with elegant tools is the constant stimulus to do work that measures up to the tools.

Irving Sloane makes guitars in Brussels, Belgium. He has written several books on guitar construction, and these, too, focus on the benefits of making special-purpose tools.

hamper done.......

Accidental Woodworker -

 I didn't get a lot done today other than finishing the clothes hamper. Over the past few months after lunch I've been nodding out at my desk. It is a symptom of having A fib where you are tired all the time. Today I napped for almost 2 hours. I have an appointment with my cardiologist in March and I'll ask him about it and if there is anything I can do about it. If I stay sitting after eating I'll nod off but if I get up and go back to the shop nada. I don't feel tired or sleepy then at all.

last night

I came back to the shop after dinner last night and got the second coat on the small table. This AM it is looking like I'm good to go on it. The coverage looks good and I didn't see any holidays anywhere..

 4 on and one more

I have 5 coats of shellac on the exterior of the drawer. I have 4 on the interior and I can't smell shellac on it. I'll have to wait and see how it fares once the drawer is shut up in the table.

 new picture frame

Thought I would knock out this frame while I'm kind of in between projects. Thinking of doing a mitered half lap on the corners.

 the pic to be framed

This is a painting that my wife's mother did over 35 years ago. I want to frame it and give it my wife as a surprise.

 getting the width/length

This pic is getting matted and will be under glass. Making sure that there is room for mat. Maria from the Frame it Shop told me the rabbet for it only has to be 1/4" wide.

 bridle joinery

I love this guide for sawing bridle joints. This one came from Richard Maguire and not Paul Sellers.

 30 minutes

This went off surprisingly quick. Pretty much happy with the consistency I saw with the saw cuts. All looked to be straight, square, and parallel to each other.

one extra

I made an extra out of a scrap piece to practice on. I was struggling trying to decipher how to do this in the brain bucket.

 hmm...

I was doing it right but I could see that it wasn't going to be as easy as I thought it was going to be. The next step was making a 45 on the middle tenon of the right piece.

 chopped a 45?

From looking at this I didn't need to saw down all the way on the outside. I should have sawn from the bottom on the edge to the to outside top edge - that would have been the 45. Chopping this wasn't that bad and I was careful doing it especially at the top. I didn't get any blow out and Mr Starrett seems happy with it. Not sure if it was dead on 45 but it was good enough for this.

 needs work

It is missing the one detail that I wanted with this joint - the indication that the corner was mitered. I can still do that by reversing how I sawed this one out. That would involve sawing two of the outside cheeks at 45 on both pieces. The middle tenon wouldn't need anything done to it.

too loose

The fit is unacceptable. I was having trouble holding this together to snap this pic. As soon as I saw this I knew that I had brain farted again. 

 screwed up

I should have only sawn the bridle joint on either the stiles or rails first. Chopped out the middle creating the mortise and then sawing the tenon on the other set marked off the mortise. My guide is adjustable - I can add/subtract shims to allow for the saw kerf. I totally zoned that out and forgot that is what I did on the previous bridle joint frames I made.

These won't go to waste because I have two more frames I want to make. I will use the shorter length ones for one of the those frames.

 done

No idea when this is going to High Point and Amanda. I was thinking of putting a lid stay on it but I'm hesitant to do that. Most likely this will be put against a wall so it isn't needed. I have time to sort it out and I'll Amanda about where she plans to put it. 

 interior

The insides feel smooth to the touch so clothes shouldn't snag on anything. This is another thing I can do later also - put a couple of coats of poly on the painted surfaces. The pegboard in my clothes hamper is doing fine after almost 20 years - it is dated 6Jun1995. No evidence of any moisture damage at all on it.

small table top

No need to paint the entire underneath. The top over hangs the base by a 1/2" 360 and that is all that needs paint. 

 battle scar

The table top lost the bounce test with Mr Concrete Deck. It fell off the bench and landed on this corner. Now way that was going to be steamed out. I am going to put a couple of coats of clear shellac on the top and shelf. Dusting painted stuff is a PITA. Being topped coated with shellac makes it easier to keep it dust/lean. I'll have to be careful with this because the Keurig coffee maker is calling the top of this home.

accidental woodworker

paint day.....

Accidental Woodworker -

 My wife and I went out to eat today at Gregg's. She had a patty melt and I had a quasi surf and turf. The surf part of my meal was fish 'n chips and the turf was the patty melt my wife didn't finish. That was tasty and I think it would make a good menu item - a hamburger and fried fish with chips. But could it be called surf 'n turf?

 new Dewalt drill

I didn't know that this came with two batteries. The chucked drill coming next week is a bare bones tool. This will give 3 batteries for the 3 Dewalt tools - two drills and a sander.

 hmmm.....

I bought this 3AH battery to replace the ones the Bosch drills came with. I tried it out in all 3 of the Bosch drills and it wouldn't run.

 missed it

The charger isn't plugged in. That explains why this battery is dead when I thought I had charged it.

 different size

The yellow 20V battery is from the sander and it is a 4AH one. I couldn't find a AH rating on either one of the 20V batteries for the 1/4" hex drive drill. Even the write up on amazon didn't state it.

 almost burned straight through

It feels solid when I rap it with my knuckles but not with a mallet. I think I should replace it just to be on the safe side.

it is deep

The charred wood I brushed away with my finger tips left a depression too big to ignore.

 might have been a stupid move

I was able to push my finger through with little oomph. The stupid part was I had trouble pulling it back out. I had to push down on the edge of the hole in order to get my finger out.

 easy peasy

I see furniture restorers on You Tube doing this all the time to remove nails. This was my first time and it worked without any hiccups. In fact I was able to reuse the nails on the replacement drawer bottom.

 coin toss

Flipped a Susan B Anthony dollar coin and chamfers won. It has taken me a lot of time to get to this stage. I planed all four edges straight and true to the pencil lines. I still remember wandering all over the dial trying to plane chamfers to pencil lines.

small table drawer

Experimenting with applying shellac to the small table drawer. I want to do this one first to see if it still smells shellac and if it will harden on the inside of the drawer. If this one turns out ok I'll shellac them all on the 15 drawer dresser.

 small table

My wife is on a green paint kick. She has been buying green paint like it isn't going to be made anymore. She currently has 7 different green paint shades waiting for her. This shade is called Caldwell Green.

 eyeballing it

Thinking of leaving the drawer finished with the  blonde shellac I mixed a few days ago. This has two coats on it and it doesn't look overly yellow hued. I still have 4-5 more coats to put on. If I don't like how it looks then I will slap some Caldwell Green on it.

accidental woodworker

Yard Sales and Thrift Stores I

The Barn on White Run -

Many of you are, like me, familiar with, and probably partakers in, the “tailgating” tool flea markets that are fairly common around MWTCA meetings, tool auctions, and the like.  I might only spend a minute or two per year buying clothes and shoes, but I can sink days into scrounging for tools.  I carry the same mindset to almost every yard sale or thrift store I encounter, and often with more strategic buys in mind.

In fact, all of my workspaces are chock full of yard sale and thrift store resources.  I’ve had a pretty good stretch of useful acquisitions lately.

Here are some treasures from a recent event, a community yard sale just before winter got here.  In a few minutes and for a few dollars, I came home with this booty.

My first treasure was this collection of assorted tacks, of which I bought six boxes for $1.  I am always on the lookout for vintage fasteners, and this box is the type of assorted tacks that was common in hardware stores in the 1950s and 1960s.  At some point when I get bored enough I will sort the contents of the boxes, ranging from 1/4″ in length to 1″.

Grinding shellac anyone?  I don’t like coffee, never have.  But coffee grinders, especially one for 50 cents?  There’s always space for them as I use them to grind up shellac, resin beads, whatever.

What in the world can I do with cake and jello molds?  Well, there is a lacquerwork technique I want to experiment with, using my epoxy fauxrushi.  This technique involves draping strips or sheets of impregnated fabric over a mold, then demolding after hardening.  The molds will have to be sized with whiting first, but they are a terrific testing opportunity for the idea.  If my memory is intact this stack was $1.

Since I use heat for a lot of functions involving wax or glue, old timey electric irons are just the tool for a lot of applications.  These were $2 a piece.  In the original boxes no less.

Since I melt wax a lot, and even more in the near future as I delve again into lost wax metal casting, I’ve found that using coffee pots are darned near perfect for material handling.  I can melt wax on a hot plate with these beauties, and then pour into whatever form or mold I’m using for whatever project I am creating.  I got these four for a buck apiece.

Perhaps my biggest prize, both conceptually and physically, was this very large turkey roasting pan.  What in the world do you need with a turkey roasting pan?  (Mrs. Barn asked me the very same question).  Well, when steaming the wax out of a ceramic investment mold, that is “Losing the wax” in lost-wax metal casting, you gotta invert the investment mold and steam out the wax.  This roasting pan is just perfect for the largest investment shell I will ever do.  I shelled out big bucks for this one, $4.  And worth every penny.

Fifteen minutes, fourteen and a half dollars.  Not a bad way to spend a little time and money on the way home from the post office.

PS – between the wedding, and Christmas, and family visits going in both directions, and preparing the Maryland house for new occupants, I don’t think I’ve spent a dozen hours in the shop doing any real work since the beginning of November.  “If only I can get past this next thing,” I tell myself…  But there is always another dozen things waiting in line.

Sigh.

small table build day 8.......

Accidental Woodworker -

 I think I'm finished with the woodworking for the small table. All that is left is too paint it and install the top and bottom shelf. I'm not going to post/blog on that but I will post the glamour the pics when I'm done. 

I had an appointment at the VA today with the podiatrist. I haven't gone on a stroll since the one outing I did last week. I asked him about why my right heel hurts so much after walking. He said he could feel my heel bone which he shouldn't be able to. He said there is usually a layer of fat between the bone and the outside skin. 

He gave me some insole inserts and some heel pads to try. He also said to take it easy initially and not go nutso and walk 4-5 miles at first. Go slow and gradually add which is what I intend to do. Wally World door to door from house is a little over a mile if I walk it directly. I'll try that out for a few days first.

 last one

The top has ten table clips and the shelf has two.

 hmm.....

It would appear that I wasn't paying attention to the 7 P's (proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance). It works in my favor because I wasn't too happy with the gaps between the legs and the outside edges of the shelf.

 center shake

I had glued this a couple of days ago but the right side didn't take. It also runs down the outside edge almost to the middle. Time to whack out a new bottom shelf.

 don't need much

The interior distance between the legs is 12 1/2", the board is 11 1/4" wide so I just had to add 3/4". That would leave a 1/4" on both edges for expansion and contraction.

 shop temp is dipping

It has been around 59-60F (15C) for about a week in the shop. The temps here are forecasted to dip even lower into the teens overnight. IMO this is pushing the envelope for gluing up and I'm not sure what the temp range is for the glue I am using.

 clamped and cooking

Left this by the furnace while I went to the VA.

 prepping the shelf

The shelf ended up a wee bit thinner in the width than I wanted. There is now 5/16" for the space between the legs and the shelf.

 bottom shelf

The table clips worked and pulled the shelf tight to the rails. One corner could be better as there is a slight gap there. I will have to shim the mortise for the table clip for it to pull tighter. I should have gone an 1/8" higher with the clip mortises rather then the 16th I did.

 cup

The is a gentle cup in the top and it flairs up on this end more than the middle. I can easily push it down flat to the top so I don't think I'll have any problems with the table clips pulling it flat and keeping it flat.

 the drawer back

I didn't like the drawer back being uneven so I sawed it off equally. The back rail on the table is slanted/tapered due to the leg orientation being skewed. The right side of the drawer back hits the back before the left one by about a 3/8". I ended up gluing blocks at the back of the drawer guides to act as drawer stops.

15 drawer dresser

I decided to put two coats of shellac on the drawers - interior and exterior. I usually don't finish the drawers but I'm making an exception here. I will use the blonde shellac I  just mixed for the drawers. I bought a quart can of clear from ACE that I'll use on the exterior of the dresser. 

The open drawers are ones that I have to remove pencil markings from first.

 new sander dust container

There is a spring in the dust bag which sure makes it easy to dump all the sanding dust in it out. Pretty clever whoever thought of it.

oops....

I forgot that I had the branding iron on the bottom of the drawer. It burned through a couple of layers of it and I'll check it thoroughly tomorrow with a mallet. If I have to I'll replace it which is probably what is going to happen.

 hamper

The 'highlighted' area is where I had planed this to unbind the butt hinges. One coat now and one after dinner and the painting will be done on this finally. Fitting the overlay hinges will be the check mark in the done column.

I bought two Dewalt 20v drills. I bought one with a chuck and another one with a 1/4" hex driver. One is coming today and the other is supposed to be here this coming tuesday. I have already been looking at changing the drill storage from the Bosch ones to the new kids on the block.

accidental woodworker

2023 Review

Woodworking in a Tiny Shop -

I'm a little late with this post.  Let's see what I accomplished last year.  As usual feel like I didn't do enough.

Tool Rehab or Making

J. Kellogg wooden jack plane.  This plane needed a lot of restoration - new base of handle (tote), new wedge, new-to-this-plane double iron fitted, strike button added, mouth closed with an insert.

J. Kellogg 16" jack

W. Tyzack Sons & Turner backsaw

Not much restoration needed, but I did reshape the handle

Made a travisher, though I've not had any chair seats to hollow out to test how well it works.

This makeshift travisher uses the blade from a heel shave

Disston #70 dovetail saw

This little saw was a raffle prize at a tool show.  It cleaned up
nicely and has become my dovetail saw of choice.


Projects

This wreath was made up of 66 (nearly) identical interlocking pieces

I added some carving after building this Shaker two-step stool

This rustic post and rung stool was made from a local tree that had
fallen in a storm.  It has a Danish paper cord seat.

This and a couple more "Roubo" phone stands featured a bit of carving

This garden bench was made from an old table top

The democratic armchair was the highlight project of the year for me.
It was made from kiln-dried red oak (except the seat) using interesting
techniques to get straight grained pieces.

This scrap-wood project was a simple but fun one

This dovetailed and lidded box is fairly simple, but just came out so nice

An interesting little stool uses no glue.  The through cross-wedged
tenons keep it very rigid.

A carved sign for my wife's daughter and SIL

Miscellaneous

After waffling a little, I bit the bullet and got a flight to Amana, IA to attend the Handworks event oput on by the people at Benchcrafted.  The show was fantastic.  It was so great to be among so many people with like interests.

Roy Underhill giving the keynote address / comedy hour

And on a personal note, the highlight of 2023 was becoming a grandfather for the first time.

Such a tiny little bundle of joy

Well, after looking at this, I guess the year wasn't so bad after all.  Heavier on the projects and lighter on tool making / restoring, the way it should be.

Wishing you all a 2024 filled with woodworking goodness.

I’d like to clarify that there aren’t any shenanigans going on with the good folks at Culinary…

Giant Cypress -

giantcypress:

95-100% ethanol for shellac

On the recent episode of the MWA podcast, we had a discussion on my favorite finish, and I went on about my love for shellac, and especially seedlac. I’ve written about why Everclear is a better solvent for making your shellac than denatured alcohol, and one thing to look out for when buying Everclear.

In case you live in a place that doesn’t sell 190 proof Everclear, Brian Glendenning let me know about another source for 95% ethanol. Culinary Solvent sells 95% and 100%(!) ethanol. I haven’t tried this myself yet, but Brian mentioned that he has 2 gallons of their ethanol, and he didn’t complain about it to me.

I have no idea how this is legal, but as Brian mentioned to me, the 2 gallons of it in his shop should disprove any skepticism.

I’d like to clarify that there aren’t any shenanigans going on with the good folks at Culinary Solvent. In some cases, you can live in a state where you can’t buy 190 proof Everclear in the liquor store, but you can buy 151 proof Everclear. The 151 proof Everclear isn’t good for making your own shellac, of course.

But it seems that in some of these cases, you can have 95-100% ethanol shipped to you even if 190 proof Everclear can’t be bought locally, which is where Culinary Solvent may be an option.

I didn’t know that — it’s always good to learn something new.

More information can be found here on the Culinary Solvent website. In any case, it’s always good to have options.

The Road To Ikea

Tools For Working Wood -

Headboard and bookcase by Eileen Gray c.1930Headboard and bookcase by Eileen Gray c.1930
Cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930Cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930
A recent Christie's auction of 20th century furniture I visited included many of the usual suspects - Ruhlmann, Nakashima, and Lalanne, to name a few. But for the first time I noticed work by Eileen Gray (1879-1976) too. Typically I find Gray's work, which is eminently collectible and sells for high sums, not particularly interesting or distinguished for its era. This work struck me differently. It was furniture she had made for herself. The table below, circa 1930-1935, was typical of her professional work, very light and airy. And like a lot of furniture of the time, it takes it's material and construction sensibility right from the Bauhaus, and in this case adopts a tubular steel frame.
Table by Eileen Gray C. 1935-1935Table by Eileen Gray C. 1935-1935
If you search around on the internet, you'll find her her professional work that seems to my eye very much in the 1920s and '30s high style / Deco mode. But her personal stuff is what is interesting to me. The other two pieces show here (above), both circa 1930, came from her Paris apartment and look to me what people want today in their furniture. The pieces are very practical, made out of very prosaic materials, and are pretty poorly made. Exactly what a practical designer living on a budget might want for herself! For me they seem right out of Ikea, albeit with maybe a few more curves. And that idea is way advanced for it's time.
You can ask if Ikea defines what modern furniture looks like, or if changes in the way we live redefined what we look for in furniture and Ikea just reacted to the demand. But either way, there was a cataclysmic change in popular furnishing from 1940 to 1980. (We can nickel-and-dime the dates.) I am not even talking about decoration; I am talking about basic forms and their uses.

While the Bauhaus pretended to want to make furniture for the masses - and they did sow the seeds for that - their actual furniture was made in too low a volume and with fancy finishing, and so mostly attracted rich buyers. By removing decoration and straightening lines you got rid of all the expensive handwork. No need for carvings, no need for hand making curved moldings, no matched veneer, etc. But the furniture forms were the same. A dining table and chairs, living room sofas, armoires, nick-knack cabinets, and other pieces designed for formal living, preferably with servants.

It looks like in 1930 Eileen Gray realized that she wanted practical stuff for herself. A headboard that isn't a gorgeous showpiece but is something for storage with a light built in. Her clients might have wanted "modern design," but they didn't actually have a "modern" lifestyle. Gray wanted both.

American mass market furniture started the post-war period with the neo-colonial style of the pre-war period. Higher-end Danish style with a nod towards the Bauhaus evolved and became known as mid-century modern, but it wasn't highly popular. People still had their curio cabinets, and their new television platforms still had decoration. By the 1970's, Americans welcomed in Shaker furniture, which was significantly plainer, and Arts and Crafts style, which even in its most simplified versions required lots of wood and skill to make work.

By the 1980's, people were moving - every five years or so, on average - enough to make substantial pieces of furniture less attractive. Ikea not only popularized knockdown furniture at lower cost but also realized the shift towards practicality. People didn't need or want a curio cabinet. The idea of servants didn't exist in the post-war house. People wanted practicality since they had to cook, serve, and maintain their homes all by themselves. Longer work hours (for all members of the household) stopped most formal entertaining, so the living room, dining room, family room, and kitchen all became munged into one large space where people informally gathered to eat, socialize, play video games and watch TV.

Even our concept of a desk has evolved. Desks used to be a place where you had a nice writing surface, good light, storage for paperwork and bills, and maybe even some help with organization. Now, a desk is simply a flat surface top with a few outlets for recharging your computer. And people understand this - which is why Ikea style desks are so popular. Office desks which, if you rank high enough for some status, also evolved to the same flat landscape, but are large and use fancy materials to denote status.

What interests me so much about Eileen Gray's personal furniture is that while professionally she had to cater to her customers, privately she lived a much more modern life and designed really some of the first truly modern furniture.

The problem the modern artisanal furniture maker has now is how does one design and sell something unique in a society whose furniture requirements are so much simpler than they used to be?

Detail from cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930Detail from cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930
Detail from cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930Detail from cabinet by Eileen Gray c. 1930

small table build day 7.......

Accidental Woodworker -

 Things are going swimmingly well with the table. I am, or I think I am almost done with the woodworking on it. I showed it to my wife today and she said it looks cute. Translation - she likes it. She is going to get me some paint for and I'll be the one doing that too. Speaking of paint I still haven't finished painting the clothes hamper. I still have one side of the top to do. 

 dado for the back

Lots of muscle memory kicked in and I zipped through this drawer. 

 good fit

I am still having problems with the half tail on the left having a slight gap. Still not sure what is causing that. I think it may be the far side of the saw cut but I'll have to examine that for the next one. This isn't a problem that I have with through dovetails.

 caught it in time

I was going to glue this up when something about the back looked funny to me. Realized that I hadn't made the slips yet nor shortened the width of the back for it.

dry fitted

Got the front glued and cooking and the sides are dry fitted. Those will get glued after lunch.

 one of two

I have made one chair and it was a Morris style one. I also have a stool under my belt but no sitting at the dinning table chairs. This chair is going to be my next thing to cross off the bucket list. Picked this up from the Frame it Shop after lunch.

 2nd one

My John Ruskin poster. He was a Victorian era polymath but I just like the poster of the elderly woodworker looking out the window.

 potential home

I am thinking of putting these two on the doors. I will have to remove the B's and the ear muff holder. There isn't an inch of real estate on any of the walls in the shop for either of these.

 copy this

I think this same system for holding the frame will work on the cabinet doors too. I don't want to screw through the frame into the door. I might want to move the frames elsewhere in the house.

 glad I bought this

My LN skew chisels wouldn't fit in the pin sockets but this fishtail did.

cooking away

Got both side slips glued. I'll give this an hour then I'll fit the bottom.

 drawer tilt bar

Decided to notch both the front and rear for this. I didn't want the end grain of the half lap showing at the back. That is because it stops the table from being viewed 360.

 butt scratcher

Came up short. Don't know how because I thought I had marked it directly between the notches.

 flushing it

Decided to not glue this in the notches. The top will keep it in place and I can replace it if there is any need to.

 table clips

Going with these instead of wooden ones. Doing this mostly because of the small interior space to work in. 4 clips for the shelf and 6-8 for the top. 

 clip mortises

Whacked out the mortises for the clips with the 8th inch chisel. For the eagle eyed I initially laid out the clip mortises on the bottom of the rail instead of the top.

 needs a knob

Drawer bottom fitted and fitting the drawer to the opening was next.

 fitted

Got confused on the fitting and took more off the sides when I should have taken it off the top. The gap is more than I like on the sides but it slides in/out easily with no binding.

 sneak peek

I need to do an edge treatment on the top and shelf. The first two choices are a round over or a chamfer. I have molding planes but I haven't gotten good results using them on end grain pine, yet. I will flip a coin to pick the round over or chamfer.

 hmm......
The left side butts up against the back and it is almost a perfect drawer stop. The front of the drawer is proud by only two frog hairs. I think I'll leave it as is for now.

accidental woodworker

more snow......

Accidental Woodworker -

Last night before I hit the rack I checked the weather. The latest and greatest then was there would be a dusting of snow overnight ending in the early AM. When my feet hit the deck this AM there was 3" of the white stuff on the ground. It was also still coming down, nice big white fluffy flakes. It turned to rain around mid morning and turned the snow on the ground to slush. 

I shoveled once around 0800 and again at 1230. The AM shoveling was ok but shoveling slush sucks pond scum. I was tempted to leave it but the temps for the rest of the week are running several degrees below freezing. There is more snow coming later on this weekend too. It sure is nice being retired because it like the song, "let it snow, let it snow.....".

 four coats

The right pine has four coats of the blonde shellac I just mixed up. The left one is bare, raw wood. I am not crazy about the yellowish hue to it. I want the shellac to be clear with no underlying tones of yellow or orange. I'll be making a road trip to ACE to get a quart of blonde shellac. I'm not sure if Lowes sells shellac in quarts anymore and ACE is closer.

 center stretcher

Did all the fitting of the stretcher off the handsaw. I half lapped it and the rail.

 base line

In the past I have had trouble with the baselines splitting off cleanly. I chiseled a knife wall before I sawed the two outside walls.

 split off cleanly

It only took one hit from both sides for this to break off. Both sides have a clean, straight baseline for the stretcher to sit on.

 marking the stretcher

The stretcher and the rail are both the same width. The plan was to mark the stretcher here and it should end up being half of what the rail notch is. At least that is what my brain bucket thought up. 

 glued and cooking

Both ends of the stretcher ended up a few frog hairs proud of the rail. I'll flush it after the glue has set. I got it right and I'm happy that the stretcher wasn't below the rail notch.

 done
The rails are slightly twisted but I can easily push the shelf down flat on the rails and center stretcher.
 drawer tilt stopper thing

I need something to stop the drawer from tilting as it is pulled out. That would drive me bonkers in a heart beat. I'll wait until the drawer is done and has been fitted.

 no half lapping here

I don't want any end grain from a half lap showing at the front. I don't mind it at the back especially so on this table. The back of it will be up against a wall. The plan is to put the front in a stopped dado and half lap the other end.

killed the lights here

Bending over the bench to dovetail was starting to hurt. The bending down wasn't a problem, it was straightening back up that was. My back gave a few twinges of protest when I was shoveling the slush. Just to be safe I killed the lights and headed topside. Luna and Sophie added two more seasons for me to binge watch.

accidental woodworker

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