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Luther's Tool Grinders, Luther Grinder Mfg. Co. 1920 Trade Catalog

Toolemera - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 3:39pm

Trade Catalog: LUTHER'S TOOL GRINDERS. LUTHER GRINDER MFG. CO., MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, U.S.A. c1920. Featuring one of the best catalog covers ever, this small catalog is a perfect example of one company's use of paper advertising to tell the world that they had moved into the modern machine age. Great Arte Deco design. Take a close look and you can see the sparks flying from the grinding wheel. Quite a cover for something so mundane as a grinder.

Download Luther1920CAT

Luthertoolcvr

Categories: Hand Tools

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 7: Sewing Machine Oilcans

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 12:45pm

There are a few things I keep at arm’s reach in the shop: an oily rag, some paraffin and a small sewing can oiler. Shown in the photo above are the four that I could gather in just a few minutes. I have at least four more around the shop. These incredibly cheap oilers keep my tools in good condition. I oil the moving parts of my handplanes. The adjustment […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 7: Sewing Machine Oilcans appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Woodwright’s School Classes for 2018!

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 7:06am

IMG_1373

The 2018 class schedule is now live at The Woodwright’s School website. Roy Underhill has been diligently working on the new calendar of classes for the upcoming year and it is finally complete. Most of the regular classes are back with many new classes added as well. You can check it out here.

As most of you know, If there is a class you are interested in get signed up ASAP, they fill up quickly.

IMG_5462

— Will Myers

 


Filed under: Woodworking Classes
Categories: Hand Tools

And the Other Stickers

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 6:11am

mine_scan

In addition to the “Fancy Lad Academy of Woodworking & Charcuterie” sticker, the next set of stickers will feature the “Mine!” image (above) by Suzanne Ellison. Suzanne created this image of a crow made of tools using bits from A.J. Roubo’s “l’Art du menuisier.” The original hangs in my office.

The third sticker will be the cover of Roy Underhill’s book “Calvin Cobb: Radio Woodworker!” by Jode Thompson.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Stickers, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

A Look Inside Kerry Pierce’s Shop: Part 2

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 2:00am

Kerry Pierce has written for Popular Woodworking for decades. His work covers dozens of magazine articles and books–so I guess I made some assumptions about what his shop would look like. As it turns out, Kerry Pierce has focused his energy on crafting beautiful furniture over creating the perfect shop. When Kerry opened the garage door to the machine room of his shop, I was surprised that every machine had […]

The post A Look Inside Kerry Pierce’s Shop: Part 2 appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

A Long Post On My Feelings—Part I

Paul Sellers - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 12:46am

At first I felt daunted. The thought of moving so soon after returning to England from Wales (two years ago) reminded me of former struggles of tearing and down and rebuilding up. Here we’d been welcomed and we like our newfound friends. Even so, we soon found we needed a place to call our own, […]

Read the full post A Long Post On My Feelings—Part I on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

#6 almost done......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 12/02/2017 - 12:27am
Tonight's shop time was mostly spent finishing up the #6. It is 98% done and the remaining 2% will be done this weekend. After the #6 work was done I turned my attention to the saw till box.  I am hoping to get this done this weekend also. I will then paint it and the square till box the same color as Miles's toolbox.


tote has had 24 hours to set up
not particularly happy with my glue up
I used blue tape to hold the horn in place while the glue sets on that. The bottom shifted a few frog hairs but it doesn't look too bad. I think I can sand it out and even it up. In spite of the kind of good results I am not thrilled with them. I think I may buy another knob and tote but I'll wait on that until I see how the horn glue up comes out.

the tote off of my #6
This is the tote that I'll be putting on Miles's #6. The glued back together tote will go on my #6 if I like the results. I don't have to do anything to this tote finish wise. It looks good as it is.

replaced the original toe screw with a brass one
I got the brass screw from Bill Rittner. I got two, one for Miles's #6 and one for my #6.


road tested in douglas fir
Adjusted it until I got even shavings from the right and left side of the mouth. After that I got a half a boat load of full length shavings. And no, you don't need the front knob to plane. The stud and barrel on there so I don't lose them. The knob needs to have a finish applied to it before this is 100%.

worth imitating
John Heisz of the "I build it CA" you tube channel is always making shop projects with common 2x lumber. I'm thinking of doing the same thing starting with the dolly around under the workbench storage cabinet.  I am going to use these 2x4's to make the rolling dolly for the cabinet. I can get enough stock out of this an 1" thick for that.

I'll buy some more 2x stock and let it acclimate in the shop. I'll cut that up 7/8" thick and make frames and insert plywood panels in them. I'm just planning this and I intend to keep working on the tool rehabs.

habit pays off
As I was marking one of the pin boards something about it was nagging me. I had everything lined up but something didn't look right. I had the tail and pin boards reversed. I always mark the boards the same way - with the reference face up on the bench (tail board) and pin board facing out in the vise. It pays to do things the same way so when this happens you can sense it. What keyed it was I couldn't get my corner numbers to align.

penciling base lines
I used the tail board for each specific corner aligning the numbers for each. They are close to each other but slightly different.

baselines done and I was going to stop here but...
pins ready to be sawn out
I thought I might have been able to saw one end but my wife came home before I could tighten this down. I am going to saw all the pins with the LV dovetail saw.  This is where I left this and I'll pick it back up this weekend.

accidental woodworker

Did you know that Disney World and Disneyland are both entered through Main Street, USA?

En drøm om egen skottbenk blir realisert – opptak av nytt medlem

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 11:25pm
Bilde1Skottbenk, langbenk og høvlar laga av Håvard Stuberg.

Student og snikkar Håvard Stuberg på Stiklestad har ikkje berre målt opp og dokumentert ein original skottbenk på Klæbu bygdemuseum. Han har også laga seg ein skottbenk basert på den originale, laga seg langbenk for høvling av flask og laga høvlane som høyrer med til skottbenken. Dette kvalifiserer til opptak i Norsk Skottbenk Union og vi kan bare gratulere og ynskje Håvard velkommen som medlem. Under følgjer tekst og bilete frå Håvard.

Etter at jeg begynte på Tradisjonelt bygghåndverkstudiet ved HIST/NTNU vart jeg tidlig kjent med skottbenken og dens fortreffelige bruksområde i å rette bord og panel.  Det ble tidlig klart at en skottbenk måtte jeg skaffe meg. Jeg begynte å undersøke om det kunne finnes skottbenker lokalt her i Verdal, uten å klare å finne noen i første omgang.

Under en studiesamling ved NTNU i Klæbu, der vi skulle bygge en låve for Klæbu historielag sitt bygdemuseum, kom jeg over to forskjellige typer skottbenk bukker. Disse var en del av samlinga på Klæbu bygdemuseum. Jeg dokumenterte den ene med tegning og foto med tanke på å kopiere denne ved en senere anledning.

Nå i 3. studieår har vi snekkerier som tradisjonsfaglig fordypning i 12 uker. I forbindelse med dette skal jeg høvle nye gulvbord til Almåsstuggu som bygd i 1823, og som i dag står på museet ved Stiklestad Nasjonale Kultursenter der jeg jobber som museumshåndverker. I den forbindelse vart det da aktuelt å finne frem igjen dokumentasjonen fra Klæbu, for så å lage en skottbenk for å få rettet gulvbord til dette.

 

Skottbenken kan man si vart påbegynt for lenge siden da jeg i november 2015 kløyvde en førstestokk av furu med øks og kiler etter tradisjon lært av Roald Renmælmo og Siv Holmin. De to havlkløyvningene vart rydd ned til en dimensjon på 13”-5” og har frem til nå vært brukt til vandring på sagstillingen jeg har brukt til handsaging av div tømmer. De er nå med øks og med selvlagd okshøvel og fletthøvel dimensjonert ned til 9”-2” og kappet på 4,1 meter. Dette er en dimensjon som jeg har beregnet jeg vil ha til rettbordene i skottbenken da gulvet har en lengde på 3,8 meter. Rettbordene viser seg å være veldig stive og stødige, dette kommer nok av at de er kløyvd og ikke saget ut av stokken. Jeg har også laget en langbenk som har samme lengde som skottbenken.

Funn av benk i vårt eget magasin!

Under produksjonen av bukkene kom vår magasinansvarlig innom snekkerverkstedet, hun kunne fortelle at hun hadde noe som lignet på disse stående i magasinet som ligger i naborommet av verkstedet vårt. Det viste seg å være en type skottbenkbukker som er veldig lik de fra Klæbu, bare noe mindre i dimensjon.

Bilde13Skottbenkbukken som er i magasinet til Stiklestad Museum. den er i prinsipp og utførelse lik bukken fra Klæbu, men noe mindre i dimensjon. De er som man ser på bildet forsterket på høyre side, antagelig fordi det har blitt strammet for hardt slik at man har fått sprekkdannelse i beinet.
Categories: Hand Tools

New Stickers are Coming

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 6:30pm

Fancy Lad Sticker

My daughter Maddy is sold out of stickers. But three new designs are being printed now. My favorite is the one shown above. If that sicker doesn’t make a bit of sense to you, read this blog entry at my other blog.

Maddy will start selling the stickers once they arrive.

— Christopher Schwarz


Filed under: Stickers, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Workbench Personality No. 3: The Cheapskate

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 3:55pm

150_ans_menuiserie-2

Quick editor’s note: These entries on the six kinds of workbench builders are all 100 percent true. I have removed the names of the people involved (except for Todd). Note that I have only love for these nutjobs.

My encounters with The Cheapskate could fill a book on workbenches. This is but one short story.

I receive a fax. On the paper is the message: “Could you call me at XXX-XXX-XXXX please? I have an important question about workbenches.”

Intrigued, I call. My first question: Hey, uh, why the fax?

The Cheapskate: “We’re not allowed to make long-distance calls here at my place of employment. But they didn’t say anything about making long-distance faxes.”

A cold stone grows in my stomach.

The Cheapskate gets down to business: “I want to build a Roubo workbench, but I’m tight on fundage. We’ve got these pallets where I work, and I’m wondering if those will work? I don’t know what the species is – something weird – and the stock is thin and filled with nails and spiral screw things.”

I am certified in counseling The Pallet People. So I know what to do.

Question: What sort of sizes can you get from the pallets?

The Cheapskate: “About 1/2” thick, 4” wide and 48” long.”

Me: So for an 8’-long bench, you will need almost 100 of those pieces just for the benchtop. You will need to de-nail them, flatten them and glue them together in stages that are staggered – probably about 18 to 20 stages – if I remember right from my Pallet People Intervention Manual.

The Cheapskate: “Brilliant! Thanks so much! I’ll do it!”

A few weeks pass; another fax arrives.

The Cheapskate: “I’m working on the benchtop, and I have a technical question for you. How little glue do I need to use to stick these pieces together? I mean, I’m trying to recover all the squeeze-out, but I’ve laminated seven layers so far and used up a 16 oz. bottle of glue. That’s crazy.

“Can I get away with just gluing a little bit at the top and bottom of each board – leaving the middle dry?”

Me: I explain that glue is the cheapest part of any project. (“Not this one!” he interjects. “So far I’ve spent money only on glue!”) Deep breath. OK, I say, if you use this strategy, once you flatten the benchtop a few times the top will delaminate.

There is silence on the phone line. (I’ve won!)

Then he answers: “What if I put a paste of rice and water in the middle instead of glue? I’ve heard that rice glue was used in Japanese cultures. We have a lot of rice.”

I unplug the office fax machine.

littlejackofallt177dart_orig_0015

The Cheapskate sends me an email: “I need to make a face vise and a tail vise, but all I have on hand is all-thread rod from a neighbor’s fencing job – 32 tpi. Can you help?”

I am seriously considering counseling for myself when a follow-up email arrives. It continues the discussion of the 32 tpi vises.

The Cheapskate: “I’m thinking a quick-release mechanism is the way to go – 32 tpi is really slow. But it’s super precise! So here’s the thing.  I have a friend with a SawStop. He set the thing off when ripping my benchtop for me (some of the glue wasn’t dry). The SawStop cartridge has these strong blue springs in it. He was going to THROW THEM AWAY! That got me thinking: I could use those as a quick-release trigger for my vise – holding a bit of metal against the all-thread.

“Have you ever seen plans for something like this?”

Weeks pass, and I hope The Cheapskate has taken up Animal Husbandry, cheaping out on animal condoms or something. But then I get a phone call.

The Cheapskate: “I see you’re teaching a workbench class at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking.”

Me: Yup.

The Cheapskate: “I was wondering: Could get a student to take videos of your lectures and send them to me? Not the building part. Just the part where you explain how to make the thing. I don’t really have the fundage to take a class.”

Me: I’m afraid that’s not really fair to the students or the owner of the school. Sorry.

The Cheapskate: “Hey, I totally understand. How about I just come to the class and watch? Is that OK? I won’t build anything. I’ll just be there, like a fly on the wall to listen? That OK?”

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Next up: Workbench Personality No. 4: The Best of Everything


Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

Podcast Episode 03 - Beginning Your Hand-tool Journey

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 2:54pm

Podcast episode 3 is now up and can be listened to above. This time, Mike and I tackled one of the most common discussions we have with readers: how to get started on the hand-tool route. What change of mindset is needed to make the switch from power tools to hand tools? Should we be cutting practice joints? What are the biggest hurdles we encounter on this journey? We hope this episode is an encouragement to you to get into the shop to work with your hands. Have further questions? Leave us a comment and we’d love to help. Thanks for listening!

Notable Links in this Episode:

 

Categories: Hand Tools

Anatomy of an End Table and Drawer

Wood and Shop - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 9:31am
Tables with drawers are really enjoyable to build, but how everything fits together can be confusing for beginner woodworkers. So I'm going to show you how my quartersawn white oak nightstands fit together. I did some research and discovered a major lack of written specifics on the anatomy of

Perch Stool: Trimming Leg Tenons

The Renaissance Woodworker - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 8:15am

A Regular Old Bench Chisel

As posturepedic as having the leg tenons poking an inch out of the seat, I think it will feel better and look better once I have pared them flush to the seat. On the center leg this isn’t a major deal because the pommel creates a convex curve, but the back tenons fall into the scooped out area. Certainly if you have some carving gouges you can tackle them with those, but I find that a regular old bench chisel used bevel down and quickly and precisely pare them flush and beautiful.

RWW Live Next Week

Tune in to my YouTube channel next Wednesday, December 6th at 6 PM EST for an open Q&A. I like to call theses Hand Tool Brew & A because I’ll probably have beer!

The Hand Tool School is Having a Sale

Use the code “SAWNSAVE” at checkout
Categories: Hand Tools

Workbench Videos 2 & 3 Are Up

Paul Sellers - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 7:32am

Yes, if you want to see episode two on YouTube you should go here. To see episode three now you will need to subscribe to woodworkingmasterclasses (free subscription) to see it now or wait two weeks when it will go up on YouTube. It has been tremendous to see the response to what I consider […]

Read the full post Workbench Videos 2 & 3 Are Up on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Finishing Funnels and Containers Storage Tip – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – December 2017 – Tip #1

Highland Woodworking - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 7:00am

Welcome to “Tips From Sticks-In-The-Mud Woodshop.” I am a hobbyist who loves woodworking and writing for those who also love the craft. I have found some ways to accomplish tasks in the workshop that might be helpful to you, and I enjoy hearing your own problem-solving ideasPlease share them in the COMMENTS section of each tip.  If, in the process, I can also make you laugh, I have achieved 100% of my goals.

Why do we pour finish from the can into a separate container? Because we know that dipping our brush into the original container, applying finish to our project, then dipping into the container again will carry debris from the project surface back into the can.

It’s a practice that can lead to some waste if you have finish left in the secondary container, but it’s better than ruining an entire quart or gallon of expensive varnish or paint. To say nothing of ruining the surface of your project!

Still, what if, when transferring finish, you introduce dirt or dust? That really defeats the purpose of the extra step, doesn’t it? There are some things you can do.

For example, when you finish cleaning your funnels, don’t just toss them onto a shelf to collect dust. Small and medium funnels will fit into zipper-locking bags and be fresh and clean the next time you need them.

Wider and longer funnels may require a different approach. For example, with my long, black funnel I put a used paper towel over the top, secured by a rubber band. The little end is sealed with a portion of a sheet of paper towel forced into the opening.

No dust is getting into this baby. Even though I don’t have a Ziploc bag large enough for it, the funnel is effectively protected by a used paper towel on top and a smidgen of a towel blocking the exit.

And, what of the container decanted into? Leave that lying around and it’s going to be full of dust, cobwebs and insects. Maybe even worse.

For that reason, I save only containers with lids. They can be stored indefinitely and still be clean inside.

I try to save every jar I can, especially if the lid is rust free. After they leave the dishwasher, I turn them upside down on this ventilated shelving for a couple of weeks to allow them to dry completely. Then, the lid goes on and they wait for their opportunity to serve.

Jim Randolph is a veterinarian in Long Beach, Mississippi. His earlier careers as lawn mower, dairy farmer, automobile mechanic, microwave communications electronics instructor and journeyman carpenter all influence his approach to woodworking. His favorite projects are furniture built for his wife, Brenda, and for their children and grandchildren. His and Brenda’s home, nicknamed Sticks-In-The-Mud, is built on pilings (sticks) near the wetlands (mud) on a bayou off Jourdan River. His shop is in the lower level of their home.Questions and comments on woodworking may be written below in the comments section. Questions about pet care should be directed to his blog on pet care, www.MyPetsDoctor.com. We regret that, because of high volume, not all inquiries can be answered personally.

The post Finishing Funnels and Containers Storage Tip – Tips from Sticks in the Mud – December 2017 – Tip #1 appeared first on Woodworking Blog.

Categories: General Woodworking

Book Giveaway: December Mystery Box

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 6:16am

So, I’m looking at the bookshelves in our office library and it’s time to make some room for new stuff. Plus, the holidays are upon us. So I thought it might be fun to do a Mystery Box Giveaway. Here’s the deal: Post a comment below and we’ll pick 10 lucky winners at random to receive a box full of books and goodies from the Popular Woodworking office. Winners will […]

The post Book Giveaway: December Mystery Box appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

Workbench Personality No. 2: The Traditionalist

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 3:48am

carpenter_1580

The Traditionalist sends me an email. He wants to find a source for his slab workbench top. It needs to be 6” thick, 20” wide and 9’ long. One piece of oak. And rived. Definitely rived. Rived is best. He’s talked to a tree service in his town about riving a tree for him, but they just shook their chainsaws at him.

Hmm, I reply. Have you tried visiting RivedBigSlabs.com? I apologize for my joke. OK, let’s try again: If you want a riven benchtop, you will have to do the work yourself.

He’s considered that, he writes. The problem is that the wedges they sell at his hardware store are either plastic or cast iron. Surely there is an online source for wrought-iron wedges. Wrought iron has grain, like a tree, and is much more suited to cleaving without deforming or breaking.

Also, could I suggest a class for making traditional forged axes in the American pattern? Nothing too late in the game – definitely an axe pattern before 1860. Best before 1830, when the great design malaise of Classicism crept into the work of the craftsman.

The Traditionalist send me a message on Facebook. I don’t use Facebook. A week later he sends me another email. He’d like to buy a large frame saw for ripping his bench legs, but he can’t find anything suitable. Yes, yes, he knows there are people who sell kits for building a saw. He owns those already. But the blade isn’t right. The blade’s teeth have fleam.

Fleam, he explains, doesn’t show up in the historical record until sometime in the mid-19th century, well after the Golden Age of furniture making. If their saws didn’t have fleam, then surely they knew something we didn’t. Fleam must be an unnecessary modern contrivance.

My short reply: Dude, you definitely want fleam, especially in wettish hardwoods.

A week later, The Traditionalist replies: he’s removed the fleam and is having problems. The saw sticks. Do I think they filed sloped gullets between the teeth back then? Perhaps these larger gullets will carry away the waste? Also, he’d like to make some mutton tallow to lubricate the blade but doesn’t know what cut of lamb he should ask for at the butcher to make the tallow. Should it have a lot of fat? Cartilage? Do I have any cites to share on this matter?

Dutch_joiner_bench_Snedker_i_arbejde

The Traditionalist asks me a question during one of his SnapChat stories. One of my teenage daughters sees it and shows it to me on her phone. I decide to wait for his email.

The Traditionalist takes a workbench-building class. On the first day I explain how we’re going to build all the workbench components as a group – one team will work on tops, a second on leg joints, a third on the undercarriage and vises.

During a coffee break on the first morning, The Traditionalist asks if there’s any way he could build his bench during the class without power tools. He explains: Using these machines tends to rob the work of its soul. Everything is too exact. Too perfect. It has lost all its humanity. He wants to stand at a workbench that reflects his own values on craft. It should be beautifully imperfect.

I think about his request. OK, I say. You can build your bench by hand in the afternoons and evenings, and I’ll help you. But in the morning I need you to do your part on the machines so the class doesn’t fall behind. He gladly agrees. I assign him to the Altendorf sliding table saw to crosscut the components to length.

At lunch that day, The Traditionalist sits next to me.

How much, he asks, is an Altendorf?

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

 

Next up: Workbench Personality No. 3: The Cheapskate


Filed under: Workbenches
Categories: Hand Tools

Strykebenkar i øvre Suldal

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Fri, 12/01/2017 - 1:01am

Ryfylkemuseet er godkjent opplæringsbedrift. Og for tida er det Ådne Jordebrekk Fermann som er lærling hjå oss, på andre året. Han har fått i oppdrag å dokumentere ein strykebenk som vart meldt inn til museet. Det var eigaren som vart medviten om kva han hadde ståande etter å ha lese «Strykebenkjen», ein artikkel i 2015-årboka til Ryfylkemuseet, «Talande Ting». I denne samanhengen oppdaga Ådne at der stod ein heime på Tufteskog og. Den vidare teksten og foto er av Ådne, om ikkje anna er nemt.

Det er til nå funne 3 ulike skottbenkar i øvre Suldal, innanfor eit område kring 5 kilometer. Gardane Tufteskog, Roaldkvam og Nordmork har kvar sin.

Desse er ganske like i utsjånad. Dei er lagde av grovt materiale, der berre langborda er høvla. Det ein også ser er at det faste langbordet ikkje er felt inn i staven, men spikra inntil. Materialet som er brukt er furu, noko som var lett tilgjengeleg.

Tufteskog (Gnr 66, bnr 1)

Benken på Tufteskog er forholdsvis kort i samanlikning til både den i Nordmork og Roalkvam med ei lengde på berre 294,5 cm. Den har mest sannsynlig blitt brukt til å skyte 4 alen lange bord. Høgden på benken er 82 cm, noko som gir ei god arbeidshøgde, samtidig som du får nok tyngde over høvelen.

Langbordet er 2,5×21 cm. Sjølve foten er 630 lang, med ei høgd på 8cm og tjukna på 10 cm. Stavane har ei høgd på 81 cm, der stavane som langbordet er festa i er 5×9 cm, medan dei to andre er 9x9cm. Legg merke til at den eine staven er bladskøyta med foten, medan den andre er tappa nedi foten. Mellom stavane oppe er det eit mellomrom på 18cm. Tverroken er 2,5×10 cm, og er samanføyd inn i stavane ved hjelp av svalehale og spiker. Det er to på kvar side.

Legg merke til hòlet i kvar fot, kva kan det være brukt til?

Det lause langbordet og kilar var ikkje funne, men det vart funnen ein skottokse med hol etter meier som kan ha vore brukt på denne benken.

Ut i frå folketeljing i 1900 er det truleg Knut T. Tufteskog (f. 1859) som har brukt denne, utifrå at han var tømmermann av yrke.

Roaldkvam (Gnr 65, bnr 1)

Dei same likheitstrekka finn du i denne benken; bygd av grove materialar, det faste langbordet er spikra inntil staven og berre langborda er høvla.

Langbordet er på 390 cm, og har ei arbeidshøgde på 79 cm. Langbordet er i dimensjon 3×21 cm. Bredda mellom det faste, og det lause langbordet er 12 cm på det breiaste.

Staven har ei høgda på 79 cm og er 8×10 cm. Alle fire føtene er bladskøyta med foten. Foten er ca. 60 cm langt og er 5×10 cm. Tverroken er festa med svalehale på begge sider av staven.

Treverket som har vorte brukt i denne strykebenken er furu. Dette var det treverket det var mest av på garden, og det som dermed var mest brukt.

Verken kilar eller skotthøvel vart funnen på staden.

Nordmork (Gnr 69, bnr 1)

RFF2014-056-007Frå Nordmark i øvre Suldal. Om lag 3 m lang og ei høgd på 78 cm. Foto: Ryfylkemuseet

Denne strykebenken er om lag 3m lang og har ein arbeidshøgde på 78 cm. Benken er av øksa materiale, noko som er ulikt i forhold til dei to andre i området. Den har også to knektar utanpå den eine staven som er noko usikkert kva det har tent til. Sjå og tidlegare bloggpost om Samanlikning av strykebenkar frå Suldal.

Samanlikning

I og med at desse benkene er innanfor eit område på 5 km, så er det ikkje mykje forskjellar og finne, og dei forskjellane som er, er ganske små. Dei har nok hatt same oppfatning om korleis ein strykebenk skal sjå ut.

Alle desse tre benkane er så å seie heilt like i oppbygning. Det er lite å skilje desse på. Noko som er likt er blant anna:

  • Det faste langbordet er ikkje felt inni staven, men spikra inntil
  • Material dimensjonen er nokså lik.
  • Tverrokane er felt inni med svalehale, og spikra fast.
  • Grovt materiale

Men det finnast ulikheiter også:

  • Benken i Roaldkvam er ca 90 cm lenger enn desse andre
  • Benken i Nordmark har knektar utpå staven på eine sida
  • Benken i Nordmark er av øksa materiale, medan desse andre er skorne på sirkelsag.

Av Ådne Jordebrekk Fermann


Categories: Hand Tools

Høvelbenk frå Oppigard Skori, Åmotsdal Seljord kommune

Høvelbenk - Thu, 11/30/2017 - 11:30pm
Høvelbenken frå Oppigard Skori. Skisse av Håkon Telnes Fjågesund

Tekst, bilete og skisse er laga av Håkon Fjågesund og har vore posta på bloggen til bachelorstudiet i tradisjonelt bygghandverk ved NTNU i Trondheim. Benken er såpass interessant at det er bra å få den presentert også her på bloggen.

Høvelbenken kjem frå garden Oppigard Skori, i Skorigrendi, Åmotsdal, Seljord Kommune. Alder på benken er vanskeleg å seie, men det ser ut til at benken har vore mykje i bruk..

Total lengde er 225cm. Høgda frå golv til topp benkeplate er 72 cm. Breidde er 33 cm ved baktange og 46cm ved framtange. Hovudbenkeplata er av grån og ca 6cm tjukk, og smalnar av frå ei breidde på 36cm på det breidaste og 32cm i toppen. Ho ser ut til å vere kløyvd og delvis skanta på undersida. Framtangen og baktangen er laga i bjørk og har treskruar med samme dimensjon. Klossen som heng i hop med skruen på baktangen er også av bjørk. Beina er laga av halvkløyvd smågrån og hogne grovt til og tappa gjennom benkeplata. Det er i alt 19 hol i benkeplata som er rekna på å sette benkehake i. Det er varierande avstand og plassering på hola, men dei går stort sett langs midten av benken. Hola ser ut til å vere bora med navar då dei er koniske. Hola som er lite bruka er framleis runde, medan ein del er firkanta etter slitasje frå benkehaka. Det er også tre hol i sida av benkeplata.

Framtanga er sett saman av tre bitar, pluss treskrue. Det går ein bolt tvers gjennom heile benken som er festa med firkantmutter på både sider. Tappane som går gjennom stykket på enden er plugga med små trepluggar (0,8cm diameter), og dette stykket er tappa gjennom stykket med treskruven i. Denne tappen er også plugga på samme vis.

Baktangen og midtstykket sett frå undersida.

Klossen med benkehaka i er kopla på baktangen med boltar. Hovudet på bolten er felt inn i treverket og festa med bøygde spiker, og mutter i andre enden, på utsida av baktangen. Treskruven er gjenga i trestykket som sitt fast på enden av benkeplata. Boltane fungerar som ei slags skinne som dreg med seg midtstykket ut når baktangen skruvast ut. Midtstykket er felt inni benkeplata på kvar side i eit spor som det kan gli i.

Truleg spor etter ei eller annan innfesting, og hol i sida av benkeplata. Skisse av høvelbenk frå Oppigard Skori

Høvelbenken er enkel, men ber samstundes med seg mange alternativ for fastspenning av emne. Hola på sida av benkeplata er det vanskeleg å seie korleis er bruka, men eg ville tru det kunne vere praktisk å slå i pluggar som emnet kunne kvile på i bakkant, ved fastspenning i framtangen. Eg har sjølv arbeidd ein del ved ein liknande benk og nytta dette prinsippet for å stø emnet. Baktangen fungerar som ein vanleg tverrstilt baktange, men midtstykket som benkehaka er festa i gjev baktangen enda ein funksjon, då midtstykket trekker seg tilbake ved opning av baktangen, og gjev ei opning som er fast i tre sider. Ved bruk av denne opninga til fastspenning for til dømes endevedhøvling får ein ei sentrert belasting på skruven i baktangen, i tillegg til at sidene i opninga er faste og kan brukast aktivt til å «låse» emnet. Det er også rikeleg med hol for plassering av framre benkehake. I alt 19 hol. Innhakket i sida av benken er vanskeleg å tolke, men det kan vere mogeleg at dette er ein modifisert høvelbenk. Detaljane i bjørk (fram- og baktange), ser mykje yngre ut enn benkeplata grunna både utforming og slitasjespor. Fram- og baktangen framstår som relativt lite slitt i forhold til benkeplata.

Høgda på benken er 72 cm. Samanlikna med moderne høvelbenkar er dette noko lågt, men ikkje ulikt det som er vanleg på eldre benkar.  I motsetnad til ordinær benkehøgde gjev denne benken rom for bruk av kroppen til fasthalding av emne. Det er lett å sette eit kne oppå benkeplata for å halde fast, og ved tapping og liknande arbeidsoperasjonar kan ein lett sitte på emnet for å halde det fast. Dette er berre lause teoriar, men det må nesten vere ein grunn for at benken er laga så låg. Dette er eit fenomen eg også har sett på ein del andre eldre høvelbenkar, men her må det nok litt nærare undersøkingar til for å slå fast noko.

Tekst, teikning og foto: Håkon Telnes Fjågesund


Arkivert under:1800-tal, 2 meter, 2,0 - 2,2 meter, 71-73 cm, Baktang med hake i senter, Framtang med skrue
Categories: Hand Tools

More Two of a Kind.

The Furniture Record - Thu, 11/30/2017 - 9:59pm

I have written before about how often I see something I haven’t seen before and then see another one just like it with a few hours or days. It just happened again.

I just returned from another trip to my own personal Purgatory, Las Vegas. Purgatory might not be quite the right word. I only go there if I get a check and, if I can figure out how to cash out a PNC Awards debit card, per diem.

The only non-stop flight from here to there on Sunday left at 7:45 AM getting me into Las Vegas before 10:30 AM. My hotel room was not available until 4:00 PM. The only thing I could do was visit four antique malls and a camera store having an amazing sale with manufacturer’s reps there to sell you more stuff. That and get lunch.

(Interesting note about the camera store. All the manufacturer’s reps were wearing black logo golf shirts. Except the Leica rep. He was wearing a Ralph Lauren Polo® Classic Fit Cotton Shirt with a Cardigan sweater casually thrown over his shoulders. Good margins on them Leicas. ) (There’s also a Leica store at the Forum Shops in Ceaser’s Palace. I know all the best places.)

I digress.

At the first shop I saw this desk:

IMG_6133

A genuine folding campaign desk. Chair sold separately.

IMG_6134

Made in 1898, it is showing its age. A bit.

IMG_6135

The top folds causing the legs to fold.

IMG_6137

All this can be your for $998.

Two shops down the road, I came across this desk:

IMG_6166

100 years newer and only $100 less.

IMG_6167

Kinda has a Bombay Company vibe going for it.

It’s been a busy few weeks. In the past six weeks I have been in Scotland for two weeks, Boston for four days, Asheville, NC for three days and Las Vegas for nine days. While home, I have been busy building Toys For Tots (fourth year) and buying a new car while the old one still works.

Needless to say, my sleep cycle has still not returned to what passes for normal. I fell down twice in the soggy highlands of Scotland. The first time I cleverly used my Nikon to keep my hand out of the mud. The second fall occurred on an actual slippery slope. I lost my footing and when I ran out of dance step, I landed square on my butt. It isn’t as well padded as I believed. This sent me back to a physical therapist. I do my stretches at bed time meaning I am falling asleep while resting between sets of abdominal/lumbar supine bent knee leg raise. (That’s what they call it.)

I have a lot of posts planned. I just need to stay awake long enough to get them out.


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